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UNIYGRSITY  Of  CALlfORNlfl 
LIBRARY 


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THE  KUZNEH.    FROM   THE  GORGE  OF  THE   SIK.-PETRA. 


IN   SCRIPTURE    LANDS 


NEW  VIEWS   OF   SACRED   PLACES 


BY 


EDWARD    L.   WILSON 


WITH   ONE   HUNDRED  AND  FIFTY  ILLUSTRATIONS  FROM   ORIGINAL 
PHOTOGRAPHS   BY  THE   AUTHOR 


J         J      3  J       , 


NEW   YORK 

CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S    SONS 

1890 


^ 


^-^ 


Copyright,  1890,  by 
CHARLES    SCRIBNER'S    SONS 


•    •  •  • 

•«•         •   • 


•    ••    ••••    •.••••      •    •         • 


THOWi 

MlNTINa  AKO  ■OOKWNOINO  COMMNr, 

NEW  YORK. 


PREFACE 


The  feeling"  of  personal  want  for  such  a  book  as  "In  Scripture 
Lands  "  was  the  first  incentive  toward  its  production.  I  wanted  to  see 
pictures  of  the  places  made  sacred  by  Scriptural  History  which  were 
not  "  idealized  "  by  the  pencils  of  those  whose  sympathy  with  Art  too 
often  rode  over  Truth.  I  wanted  to  see  such  pictures  accompanied  by 
descriptions  free  from  either  the  shallow  sentiment  of  the  superficial 
tourist,  the  narrowness  of  the  enthusiast,  or  the  arbitrariness  of  denom- 
inationalism.  I  likewise  wanted  them  connected  with  data  and  textual 
references  which  should  give  me  helpful  hints  for  the  further  study 
and  enjoyment  of  the  events  that  have  made  the  Scripture  Lands  the 
most  interesting"  of  any  in  the  world. 

With  these  wants;  with  the  Holy  Bible  as  my  guide-book}  with 
careful  art  training;  with  ardent  enthusiasm  for  the  picturesque  as 
well  as  for  the  historical ;  with  a  love  for  nature  and  for  human  nat- 
ure ;  with  a  camera  fitted  with  a  student's  eye,  and  with  perfect  health 
and  strength,  I  went  at  the  task  I  had  set  for  myself.  I  was  not  always 
sure  where  all  these  would  lead  me  to,  but  here  is  the  story  and  here 
are  some  of  the  results.  I  am  convinced  that  there  are  other  people 
whose  wants  have  been  similar  to  those  I  have  described  as  my  own ; 
so,  in  face  of  the  fact  that  there  is  no  end  to  books  of  travel  in  the 
lands  of  the  Scriptures,  I  appear  with  mine. 

It  will  be  observed  that  I  visited  some  places  rarely  seen  by  the 

397081 


iv  PREFACE. 

white  man,  and  that  I  have  been  able  to  add  to  the  knowledge  concern- 
ing them.  Moreover,  by  mixing  with  the  people  and  wandering  tribes, 
and  by  becoming  mixed  with  them  against  my  will,  sometimes,  I  have 
gained  some  light  upon  oriental  life,  and  secured  some  more  apt  illus- 
trations for  the  sacred  writings,  as  well  as  new  and  valuable  pictures  of 
the  countries  through  which  I  wandered. 

I  have  thus  partly  supplied  the  want  with  which  I  started  out.    I 
sincerely  wish  that  my  labors  may  prove  of  service  to  many  others. 

Edward  L.  Wilson. 

New  York,  November,  1890. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE  L 

PAGE 

THE  LAND   OF  GOSHEN, 1 

Abraham's  Visits. — The  Days  of  Israel's  Bondage. — The  Death  of  Pharaoh. — The 
Funeral  of  Rameses  II.— The  Great  Mummy  "Find"  of  1881.— The  Story 
Told.— A  Visit  to  the  Royal  Tomb.— The  Plain  of  Thebes.— Remains  of  the 
Ramesian  Capitol. — The  Tombs  of  the  Kings  in  the  Coffin  Mountain. — Modern 
Life  in  Goshen. — "  Likenesses  "  of  the  "  Oppressor  "  of  Israel. 


CHAPTER  n. 


SINAI  AND  THE  WILDERNESS, 


Journeying  to  the  "Mount  of  God." — Preparation  at  the  "Wells  of  Moses," — 
The  First  Night  in  the  Desert. — A  Day  on  Camel-back. — At  Marah. — Sheikh 
Mousa. — Mapping  the  Route. — Elim. — "  Encamped  by  the  Red  Sea." — A  Last 
View  of  Goshen. — At  the  Mines  of  Maghara. — In  the  "Written  Valley." — By 
"The  Rock  Struck  by  Moses" — Wady  Feiran. — "Pitched  in  Rephidim." — 
Where  Joshua  and  Amalek  Fought. — The  Ascent  of  Mount  Serbal. — The  "Gate 
of  Sinai." — The  "Plain  of  the  Assemblage." — Mount  Sinai  in  Sight. — Jebel 
Mousa. — "  The  Mountain  of  Moses." — At  the  Convent  of  St.  Catherine. — Climb- 
ing up  the  Sinaitic  Peaks. — Jethro's  Well. — The  Chapel  of  the  Virgin. — The 
Gateways. — The  Chapels  of  Elijah  and  Elisha. — Views  from  the  Summits. — 
The  Plain  of  Er  Raha.— Ras-Sufsafeh— "The  True  Sinai." 


CHAPTER  in. 

FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  SEIR, 53 

The  Departure.— The  "  Hill  of  the  Golden  Calf."— Wady  es  Sheikh.— Hazeroth. 
— The  Gorge  of  'Ain  Hudherah. — Where  Miriam  Taunted  Moses. — A  Fantasia 
of  Color.  —  Wady  'El  Ain.  —  A  Stream  in  the  Desert.  —  Sublime  Mountain 
"Notches."— The  Gulf  of  Akabah.— An  Oasis  by  the  Sea.— Rough  Travel.— 


vi  CONTENTS. 

FAQE 

The  Island  of  Kureiyeh. — Night  Scenes  by  the  Sea. — Ezion  Gaber. — Elath. 
— Akabah. — Wady  Arabah,  the  "Highway"  to  Palestine. — Changing  Camels 
and  Guides. — A  Troubled  Camp. — In  the  Mountains  of  Seir. — A  Well  Found. 
— Rock-houses  or  Nawamis. — Fantastic  Forms. — The  Rock  of  El-Guerrah. — A 
Scheme  Projected. — An  Envoy  sent  to  Eljy. — Mount  Hor  in  Sight. — *Ain  El 
Dalegeh — the  "Well  of  Moses." — Visitors. — A  Bedouin  Village. — Petra  Close 
at  Hand. — "A  Desolation." — The  World  Beyond. — The  Mount  Seir  Journey 
Ended.— At  the  Gate  of  Petra. 


CHAPTEE  TV. 

A  VISIT  TO  PETRA, 79 

Introduction. — Selecting  a  Dragoman. — A  Map  of  Petra. — Petra  Reached. — The 
Arched  Terrace.— The  Gorge  of  the  Sik.— A  First  Glimpse  of  the  City.— The 
Kuzneh. — Six  Wily  Chiefs  Surprised. — The  Amphitheatre. — A  Street  View. — 
The  Temple  of  the  Urn  and  Arched  Terrace. — The  Corinthian  Structure. — 
The  Temple  with  Three  Tiers  of  Columns. — The  Temple  with  Fluted  Columns. 
— A  Gorge  Explored. — A  Rock-hewn  Pulpit. — Up  a  Rock-cut  Stairway. — Where 
David  Sang.— The  Pyramids.— An  Altar  of  Baal.— El  Deir,  or  "The  Convent." 
— Mount  Hor. — Departure  from  Petra. — Guesses  at  History. — The  Serpent  and 
the  Lizard. — "Hospitality." — Attacked  on  the  Way. 


CHAPTEE  V. 

A  SEARCH  FOR  KADESH, 117 

The  Site  of  Kadesh  Discussed. — Dr.  H.  Clay  Trumbull's  Visit  there. — The  Journey 
from  Petra  across  Wady  Arabah. — 'Ain  El  Weibeh. — The  Grave  of  Miriam.— 
The  "Holy  Tree." — Near  the  Borders  of  Canaan. — Lost  in  the  Wilderness. — 
'Ain  Qadees  Passed  by. — An  Oasis  Found.— Desert  Wandering. — A  Rain  Storm. 
— Imprisoned  by  the  Ishmaelites. — Traces  of  the  ."Wandering." — In  Sight  of 
Palestine. — The  "Plain  of  Mamre"and  the  "Brook  Eshcol." — Return  to 
Kadesh. — Up  Wady  Arabah  to  the  Wilderness  of  Moab. — "  The  Mountain  of 
Nebo"  and  the  "Top  of  Pisgah  "  Discussed.- Return  to  the  Plain  of  Mamre. 


CHAPTEE  YE. 

THREE  JEWISH   KINGS, 133 

The  Judge  Samuel. — Saul,  the  Son  of  Kish. — Saul  Anointed  by  Samuel. — Rachel's 
Sepulchre. — King  Saul. — Jonathan. — War  on  all  Sides.— Saul's  Sin. — David  the 
Shepherd. — The  Field  of  the  Shepherds  near  Bethlehem. — The  Jewish  AVarrior. 
— Tlie  Death  of  Goliath. — David  the  Musician.— David  the  Outlaw. — At  the 
Cave  of  AduUam. — Raiding  in  the  Wilderness  of  En  gedi. — A  "Hospitality" 
Service. — Saul  Again  in  David's  Power. — Again  a  Wandering  Bedouin. — Fight 


CONTENTS,  vu 

PAGE 

with  the  Amalekites. — The  Philistines  Fight  Saul  at  Mount  Gilboa. — Saul  and 
Jonathan  Dead. — David  Punishes  the  Assassins  of  Ish-bosheth. — David  King  in 
Hebron. — Jerusalem  Besieged  and  Taken. — Prosperous  King  David  in  Jeru- 
salem.—The  Rebellion  and  Death  of  Absalom.— The  *'  Last  Words"  of  David.— 
Solomon  is  Anointed  at  Gihon. — Solomon  the  Merchant-King. 


CHAPTEK  Vn. 

m  THE  SOUTH  COUNTRY, 165 

Hebron. — The  Cave  of  Machpelah. — The  Pool. — Abraham's  Oak. — The  Vineyards 
of  Eslicol. — The  Pools  of  Solomon. — Bethlehem. — The  Birthplace  of  Jesus. — 
Bethany. — The  Tomb  of  Lazarus. — The  House  of  Martha  and  Mary. —  The 
Women  of  Bethany. — The  Convent  of  Mar  Saba. — The  Dead  Sea. — The  Jordan. 
—Pilgrims'  Bathing  Place. — Decapolis  and  the  Cities  of  Perea. — The  Jordan 
toward  Moab. — Jericho. — The  Fountain  of  Elisha. — The  Climb  up  to  Jeru- 


CHAPTEE  Yin. 

ROUND   ABOUT  JERUSALEM, 182 

The  Triumphal  Entry  of  Jesus  Christ. — The  Route  from  Bethany  to  the  Holy 
City. — Ancient  Landmarks. — View  from  the  Bethany  Road  Southeast. — Mount 
Zion.— The  King's  Dale.— Siloam.— The  Tomb  of  Absalom.'— In  the  Valley  of 
Jehoshaphat. — The  Kidron  Valley. — Views  from  the  Top  of  the  Golden  Gate. — 
The  Mount  of  Olives.— The  Temple  Site.— The  "Court  of  Omar."— Mount 
Moriali. — The  Temple  Area. — The  Citadel. — Views  from  the  Citadel  Mosque. 
— From  Jerusalem  to  Gethsemane. — The  Turkish  Garrison. — The  Via  Dolorosa, 
— The  Muezzin  Call. — The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. — Easter  "Services." 
— The  Four  Quarters  of  Jerusalem.  — The  Christian  Quarter  from  the  Pool  of 
Hezekiah. — The  Jews'  Quarter. — The  Jews'  Wailing  Place. — Ancient  "  Stones." 
— The  Tower  of  David,  and  the  Tower  of  Jesus. — The  Tombs  of  the  Kings. — 
The  Stone  at  the  Door  of  the  Sepulchre. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

WHERE  WAS  THE  PLACE  CALLED  CALVARY? 223 

A  Survey  from  the  Mount  of  Olives.— The  Personal  Account  of  Rev.  Charles  S. 
Robinson,  D.D. — "Oriental  and  Sacred  Scenes,"  by  Dr.  Fisher  Howe. — The 
Bible  Record. — A  Map  of  Jerusalem. — The  Grotto  of  Jeremiah. — "  Golgotha" 
Discussed.—"  The  Place  of  a  Skull."— Where  was  the  Place  Called  Calvary  ? 
— The  "Place"  Discovered  and  its  Location  Determined. — Jerusalem  from 
Mount  Calvary. — The  Damascus  Gate  near  "the  True  Site  of  Calvary." 


viii  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEK  X. 

PAGE 

FROM  JUDEA  TO  SAMARIA, 243 

Places  not  yet  Visited. — Some  Notes  on  Samaria  and  on  Galilee. — The  Departure 
from  Jerusalem  via  Jericho. — Scopus"  Mizpeh." — Bethel. — Shiloh. — In  Sam- 
uel's Time. — At  Jacob's  Well. — Joseph's  Sepulchre. -^Shechem. — Mount  Ebal, 
— Mount  Gerizim. — The  Pentateuch  of  the  Samaritans. — A  "very  Religious 
People." — The  Houses  of  Shechem. — The  Olive  Groves. — Lepers. — On  the 
Road  to  Samaria. — A  Grand  Prospect. — The  Wandering  Bedouin. — Beggars  by 
the  Roadside. — Blood  Feuds. — Samaria  in  Sight. — Old  History  and  new  Expe- 
riences.— In  Herod's  Day. — The  "Good  Samaritan"  of  our  Day. — The  Church 
of  St.  John.— -Inquiring  the  Way. — Scripture  Illustrations  Abound. — The  Para- 
ble of  the  Sower. — A  Picturesque  Land. — At  the  Roadside  Fountain. — Jenin, 
the  Border  City  of  Samaria. — "Arguing  Religion"  at  the  Mosque. — The  Glor- 
ies of  Galilee  in  Sight. 


CHAPTEK  XI. 


ROUND  ABOUT  GALILEE, 278 

Tho  Departure  from  Samaria. — A  Wedding  Journey. — A  Fountain  by  the  Way- 
side.—Where  is. the  Road  ?— The  Plain  of  Dothan.— The  Plain  of  Jezreel  or 
Esdraelon. — The  Great  Battle-field  of  Palestine. — The  Splendid  Scenery. — Jez- 
reel.— Mount  Gilboa. — The  Fountain  of  Jezreel. — Endor. — Looking  toward  the 
Jordan. —Shunem. — Little  Hermon. — Nain. — Saluting  by  the  Wayside. — Pil- 
grims and  Dervishes. — At  the  Convent. — An  Arab  Funeral. — The  Little  Chil- 
dren.— A  Ride  over  to  Cana. — Mount  Tabor. 


CHAPTEE  Xn. 


NAZARETH,  OLD  AND  NEW, 303 

The  Climb  up  the  Nazareth  Hills,  from  the  Plain  of  Esdraelon.— Early  Morning  at 
Nazareth. — The  Wood-market. — At  the  Bazaars. — Nazareth  viewed  from  the 
Campanile  of  "the  Church  of  the  Annunciation."— The  Blind.— The  Latin 
Church. — The  Houses. — Living  on  the  Roof. — A  Nazarene  Carpenter's  Shop. 
—View  from  the  "  Mount  of  Precipitation."— The  Modern  Jew.— Old-time  Ex- 
citements in  the  Synagogues. — An  Evening  Prospect. — Tlie  Hill  Country  around 
Nazareth. — The  People  of  Galilee. — Home  Customs. — The  Education  of  the 
Children. — A  Feast  Day. — Street  Scenes. — When  Jesus  Christ  lived  in  Naza- 
reth. 


CONTENTS.  ix 


CHAPTER  Xin. 

PAGE 

THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE, 323 

The  First  Impressions  from  Safed. — Historical  Notes. — The  Horseback  Ride  from 
Safed.— The  Warm  Baths  at  Tiberias.— South  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee.— Tiberias 
from  the  South. — Tiberias  from  the  North. — The  Jews  and  the  Synagogue. — 
Magdala. — Bowers  on  the  Housetops. — 'Ain-Et-Tin,  The  Fountain  of  the  Fig. — 
Khan  Minyeh,  The  Site  of  Capernaum. — Tell  Hum.-^A  Synagogue  in  Ruins. — 
The  Sea  at  Capernaum. — A  Ride  along  the  Coast. — Bethsaida. — The  Plain  of 
Genessaret. — Chorazin. — The  Sea  of  Galilee  South  from  Chorazin. — Wady  El 
Hamam. — Kurun  Hattin,  "  The  Horns  of  Hattin." — Where  the  Crusaders  were 
Defeated. — "Peace." 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

FROM  THE  COAST,   ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS,         .        .        .        .344 

Tyre  and  Sidon. — In  the  "Borders." — Crossing  Mount  Lebanon. — Coele  Syria. — 
The  Orontes  and  the  Leontes. — The  Natural  Bridge. — The  Anti-Lebanon  Range. 
— The  Hasbany. — The  Bridge. — The  Fountain  of  Dan. — Caesarea  Philippi  of 
Old. — Banias,  the  Modern. — The  Headwaters  of  the  Jordan. — The  Cave  and 
Shrine  of  Pan. — Mount  Hermon. — The  Castle  of  Banias. — Departure  for  Da- 
mascus.— Through  the  Country  of  the  Druses. — Damascus  in  Sight. — In  "Para- 
dise."— The  Scene  of  Paul's  Conversion. — The  Escape  of  Paul. — The  House  of 
Naaman. — Damascus  Old  and  New. — The  Streets  and  the  People. — The  Rivers 
of  Damascus. — "The  Street  which  is  called  Straight." — The  House  of  Ana- 
nias.—The  Grand  Mosque  and  "the  Minaret  of  Jesus."  —  The  Houses  and 
Homes. — The  Gates  of  Damascus. 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGX 

The  Kuzneh  from  the  Gorge  op  the  Sik.— Petra,  ....     Frontispiece 

The  Land  op  Goshen, 3 

Entrance  to  the  Tomb  op  Sethi  I.  in  Biban-el-Mulouk,  or  the  Valley 
OP  the  Tombs  op  the  Kings, 3 

Biban-el-Mulouk  :  Entrance-passage  to  the  Tomb  op  Sethi  I.  On  the  lept 
ARE  THE  Chambers  op  the  Scarab^us, 5 

The  Scarab^us— Emblem  op  Immortality — attended  by  a  God.      From  a 

WALL   IN   THE   ENTRANCE-PASSAGE   TO  THE   TOMB  OP   SeTHI  I. ,  .  .  .6 

The  Handwriting  on  the  Wall  op  the  Tomb, 7 

Outer  Mummy-case  of  Queen  Ahmes  Nopretari, 8 

Gold-faced  Inner  Mummy-case  op  Queen  Ahmes  Nopretari.  Photographed 
AT  the  Bulaq  Museum, 9 

Head  op  Pinotem  II.     Photographed  prom  the  Mummy,         .        .        .        ,10 

Professor  Maspero,  Emil  Brugsch  Bey,  and  Mohammed  Abd-er-Rasoul. 
Photographed  at  the  Mouth  op  the  Shaft,  Deir-el-Bahari,         .        .     11 

Across  the  Plain  op  Thebes  prom  the  Tomb  of  the  Pharaohs,   ...    13 

The  Colossi  of  Thebes, 17 

Luxor  and  the  Nile,  prom  the  Plain  of  Thebes, 18 

Profile  op  Rameses  II.  Photograph  op  the  Southern  Colossus  at  the 
Great  Temple  of  Abou-Simbel, 19 

Pictures  on  the  Walls  of  the  Great  Temple  at  Abou-Simbel.  Showing 
Rameses  II.  fighting  prom  his  chariot,  in  personal  combat,  and  pass- 
ing SENTENCE  ON  CAPTIVES, 20 

Rameses  II.  immediately  after  Unfolding.  From  a  photograph  by  Emil 
Brugsch  Bey, 21 

The  Wells  of  Moses, 25 


xii  LI8T  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

The  Wells  of  Elim, 28 

Wady  Feiran,  Site  of  the  Battle  between  Israel  and  Amalek,        .        .  32 

The  Ascent  of  Mount  Serbal, 35 

Ras-Sufsafeh,  prom  the  Plain  of  Assemblage, 38 

The  Way  into  the  Convent  in  Time  of  Trouble, 40 

The  Convent  Buildings  and   the    Plain    of  Assemblage,   from   the  Ve- 
randa,    41 

Working  the  Elevator, .        .42 

The  Interior  of  the  Convent  Chapel, 43 

"The  Book  of  the  Gospels,"  kept  in  the  Convent, 44 

The  Shri\t:  Gate, 45 

The  Ascent  of  Mount  Sinai.     Second  Gateway 47 

The  Convent,  from  Mount  Sinai,          .        .        . 48 

Plain  op  Assemblage,  from  the  Rock  of  Moses, 50 

Ras-sufsafeh,  East  Side,  from  Aaron's  Hill,    .        .        .        .        .        .        .51 

Jebel  Haroun,  or  the  "Hill  of  the  Golden  Calf,"      .        .        .        .        .55 

The  Gorge  of  'Ain  Hudherah.     Hazeroth, 56 

Miriam's  Well.     Hazeroth, 57 

"  The  Entrance-gate  "  to  Wady  El  'Ain, 59 

By  the  Gulf  of  Akabah, 63 

Akabah  and  the  Site  of  Elath, 65 

A  Nawami, 70 

A  Ruined  Village.     Jebel  Haroun— Mount  Hor  from  Mount  Seir,     .        .  72 

Peddling  Ibex  Heads, .  74 

A  Bedouin  Family, .75 

Ancient  Edom,  and  the  Cleft  of  Petra.    Ruins  of  a  Village,    .        .♦       .  76 

Map  op  Petra  and  its  Vicinity, 84 

Necropolis  and  River  Sik.    Entrance  to  Petra.    Unfinished  Temple,  86 

The  Khuzneh, 89 

BEDOums  IN  the  Khuzneh  Gorge, 91 

A  Preliminary  Glimpse  op  Petra, 94 

The  Theatre 95 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS.  Xlll 

PAGE 

The  Temple  of  the  Urn  and  Arched  Terrace, 96 

The  Temple  of  the  Urn — Eastern  Colonnade, 97 

Corinthian  Structure, 98 

Temple  with  Three  Tiers  op  Columns, 99 

The  Pyramid— Sheikh  Sallm  and  his  Staff, 100 

Interior  of  Temple  with  Fluted  Columns, .  103 

Rock  Stairway  and  Pulpit, 104 

The  Altar  of  Baal, 105 

The  Deir  (or  Convent)  and  Stairway, 108 

Neighborhood  op  the  Temple  of  the  Urn  (in  the  Middle  Ground),  .  109 

The  Serpent  and  the  Lizard, Ill 

Spur  of  Mount  Hor — the  Ravine  of  the  Deir, 112 

Sheikh  Mousa  on  his  Camel, 115 

'AiN  El  Weibeh, 121 

The  "Holy  Tree"  near  the  Borders  of  Canaan, 122 

Views  of  the  Oasis  near  Kadesh-Barnea, 123 

A  Modern  Hagar,     .        . .        .  127 

Rachel's  Sepulchre, •        ,        .        .  136 

A  Bedouin  Shepherd-boy, 139 

Where  David  was  a  Shepherd,  near  Bethlehem, 141 

The  Cave  of  Adullam, 149 

In  the  Wilderness  of  En-gedi, 151 

glhon,  where  solomon  was  anointed, 161 

The  Pool  of  Solomon, 163 

The  Pool  in  Hebron  where  David  Hung  the  Murderers  of  Ish-bosheth,     .  166 

The  Cave  of  Machpelah, .        .        .167 

Bethlehem,  from  the  Church  of  the  Nativity,       .        .        .        .        .        .  169 

Bethany, 170 

The  House  of  Mary  and  Martha, 171 

Women  of  Bethany, 172 

The  Jordan  toward  Moab, 174 

The  Jordan— The  Pilgrims'  Bathing-place, 177 


xiv  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Fountain  of  Elisha, 178 

Aqueduct  near  Jericho, 179 

Modern  Jericho, 180 

A  Khan  near  the  Joppa  Gate,  Jerusalem, 183 

Jerusalem  prom  the  Bethany  Road  Southeast, 189 

The  King's  Dale.    The  Tomb  of  Absalom, .191 

The  Golden  Gate — Inside, 194 

Summit  of  Mount  Moriah — The  Temple  Area, 197 

Zion's  Gate,  Jerusalem, 198 

From  Gethsemane  to  Jerusalem, .        .        .  199 

North  End  of  the  Temple  Area — The  Citadel, 301 

Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre, 205 

The  Garden  of  Gethsemane— The  Tree  op  Agony,  .        .        .   '     .        .        .  208 

The  Mount  of  Olives— Garden  op  Gethsemane, 210 

A  Group  of  Lepers  and  the  Lepers'  Hospital, 212 

The  Jews'  Quarter, 213 

The  Christian  Quarter.     From  the  Pool  of  Hezekiah,  looking  toward 
the  Mount  op  Olives, 215 

Wailing-place  of  the  Jews.     (From  a  photograph  by  W.  Kurtz  of  the 

PAINTINQ  BY  VERESTCHAGIN),        . 217 

The  Towers  of  David  and  op  Jesus,    .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  219 

Tombs  of  the  Kings.    Place  of  the  Skull, 220 

A  Tomb  with  a  Rolling-stone  Door, 221 

Map  op  Jerusalem, 230 

The  Grotto  of  Jeremiah, 232 

Place  of  the  Skull, 236 

Jerusalem  prom  Mount  Calvary, 239 

The  Damascus  Gate, 240 

Scopus  from  the  Mount  of  Olives, 247 

Bethel,  toward  Jerusalem,  .        .        .        .        ....        .        .        .  248 

The  Tower,  Bethel 248 

Bethel,  from  the  Tower, 249 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS.  XV 

PAOB 

At  Shiloh, 251 

Jacob's  Well, 254 

Joseph's  Sepulchre, 256 

Mount  Gerizim, 257 

Mount  Ebal, 258 

The  Samaritan  Pentateuch, 259 

Houses  in  Shechem, 261 

Beggars  by  the  Roadside, 264 

The  Parable  op  the  Sower, 272 

"Without  Purse  and  Scrip," 275 

The  Plain  of  Esdraelon  and  Little  Hermon,  .        .        .        .        .        .        .  280 

The  Castle  of  Jezreel, 285 

Mount  Gilboa  and  the  Fountain  of  Jezreel, 288 

The  Fountain  of  Jezreel  toward  the  Jordan, 289 

Mount  Tabor  from  Nain.    The  Convent,    .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  292 

Syrian  Girls — Nazleh  and  Mermon, 295 

Cana  in  Galilee.     (After  a  photograph  by  Bonfils.)    General  View  from 
the  West.     (Drawn  from  nature),        .        . 298 

Mount  Tabor, 301 

Early  Morning,  Nazareth, 304 

The  Wood-market, 306 

Nazareth  from  the  Campanile  of  the  Church  of  the  Annunciation,        .  309 

A  Carpenter's  Shop, 311 

Palestine  Jews, .  313 

The  Old  Synagogue  of  Kep'r  Bir'im  ;  between  Nazareth  and  Capernaum,  314 

The  Sea  of  Galilee,  from  Safed, 324 

The  Warm  Baths  of  Tiberias, .  328 

Tiberias,  from  the  South.    Tiberias,  from  the  North,  .        .        .        .  330 

Reading  PLACE  in  the  Synagogue  at  Tiberias, 330 

Magdala,     Bowers  on  the  House-tops,  Magdala, 331 

Ain-et-tin.    (The  "Fountain  of  the  Fig"),        .        .        .        .        ,        .        .333 
Synagogue  Ruins  at  Tell  Hum,  a  Supposed  Site  of  Capernaum,  .        .        .  334 


xvi  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

The  Sea  op  Galilee  at  Capernaum, 336 

Bethsaida  West, 337 

The  Sea  op  Galilee,  South  of  Chorazin.     An  Arab  Home,   ....  339 

The  Horns  op  Hattin.    (The  Mount  of  Beatitudes), 341 

A  Fishing-boat  on  the  Sea  of  Galilee, 343 

The  Coasts  of  Tyre  and  Sidon, 346 

Lebanon  to  Anti-Lebanon, 347 

Natural  Bridge  over  the  Leontes,     .        , .  349 

Bridge  over  the  Hasbany, 350 

The  Fountain  op  Dan, 351 

C^SAREA  Philippi, 352 

The  Cave  and  Shrines  of  Pan  at  C^sarea  Philippi, 354 

Mount  Hermon  from  the  Damascus  Road, .        .  355 

Druse  Ploughman  and  Team,         .        .        ,        ....        .        .        .  357 

Druse  Shepherd,      .        .        . .        .  359 

A  Syrian  Ass  and  the  Foal  of  an  Ass,       .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .361 

The  Street  called  Straight,        . .  362 

The  Grand  Mosque  and  Minaret  of  Jesus, 364 

The  Watchman  at  the  Gate, 366 

MAPS. 

Belief  Map  op  Palestine, .  368 

Scripture  Lands  and  Sacred  Places,  .       o       .        .       .        .       .       facing  368 


IN    SCRIPTURE   LANDS 


IN    SCRIPTURE     LANDS. 


CHAPTEE  I. 

THE  LAND   OF   GOSHEN. 


Abraliam's  Visits. — The  Daj'S  of  Israel's  Bondage. — The  Death  of  Pharaoh. — The  Funeral 
of  Rameses  II.— The  Great  Mummy  "  Find  "  of  1881.— The  Story  Told.— A  Visit  to 
the  Royal  Tomb. — The  Plain  of  Thebes. — Remains  of  the  Ramesian  Capitol. — The 
Tombs  of  the  Kings  in  the  Coffin  Mountain. — Modern  Life  in  Goshen.  —  "Like- 
nesses "  of  the  "  Oppressor  "  of  Israel. 

Tr>Y  beginning'  with  the  bondage  of  Abraham's  children  in  the  land  of 
-^"^  Goshen,  and  keeping  on  the  traditional  lines  to  Damascus,  we 
may  follow  the  route  by  which  Moses  was  led  to  the  Promised  Land, 
and  gather  interesting  impressions  of  the  districts  apportioned  to  the 
different  tribes  of  the  chosen  people  Israel.  At  the  same  time  we  may 
not  only  view  the  places  where  Abraham  dwelt  in  Canaan,  but  see  those 
made  more  sacred  by  the  footsteps  of  the  blessed  Son  of  Abraham, 
Jesus  Christ  our  Lord. 

Abraham  was  a  wandering  Bedouin  and  a  tent-dweller.  He  was  a 
noble  character ;  and  mamy  of  the  present  tent-dwellers  in  his  adopted 
country  are  so  noble  that  it  becomes  easy  to  believe  that  there  has  not 
been  much  change  in  some  of  the  wilderness  families  since  Sarah  was  a 
blessed  mother  there.  Abraham  followed  the  divine  leading  when  he 
wandered  over  to  Canaan,  and  so  he  did  when  he  journeyed  to  Egypt ; 
but  in  the  last  case  hunger  was  the  impelling  cause.  There  was  a  fam- 
ine in  the  neighborhood  of  Bethel,  so  the  prosperous  corn-lands  and 
clover-meadows  of  Goshen  were  sought.  Two  centuries  later  we  find 
his  descendants  repeating  history.  The  story  of  Joseph  supplies  the 
prefatory  pages,  and  we  are  all  familiar  with  the  rest  up  to,  say,  three 


2  : ^ \ :  '■ ' :  y '/^c<  '<^  < ^j^' 'sckiPTURE  lands. 

thousand  three  hundred  years  ago.  Then  the  land  of  Egypt,  from 
Goshen  to  Thebes  and  beyond,  was  in  an  uproar. 

The  king  was  dead !  Eameses  II. — the  precocious  youth  who  at  the 
age  of  ten  had  joined  his  warrior  father  Sethi  I.  upon  the  throne ;  the 
ruler  whom  his  people  regarded  as  a  god ;  the  oppressor  under  whom 
the  Israelites  are  said  to  have  "  sighed  by  reason  of  their  bondage ; " 
the  great  Sesostris  of  the  Greeks — had  breathed  his  last. 

The  gay  and  busy  life  of  the  Delta  was  hushed,  and  the  hundred 


The  Land  of  Goshen. 

gates  of  Thebes  were  only  open  to  those  who  ministered  to  the  necessi- 
ties of  the  living  or  who  performed  the  sacred  offices  of  the  priest- 
hood. All  street  processions,  minstrel-bands,  and  mountebanks  fled 
appalled.  The  cities  which  the  great  architect  and  artist-king  had 
refounded — Ra'amses  and  Pithom — built  by  the  forced  labor  of  the 
Hebrews,  were  in  their  meridian  splendor.  The  Ramesseum  at  Thebes 
was  yet  unsurpassed,  and  the  colossal  monolith  which  represented  the 
enthroned  king  was  then  unbroken.  The  glorious  quartette  of  Abou- 
Simbel,  but  recently  finished,  sat,  as  now,  smiling  at  the  Nubian  sun. 

But  Rameses  H.,  in  whose  honor,  for  whose  glory,  and  by  whose 
command  all  these  grajad  creations  were  finished,  could  look  upon  them 
no  more  with  mortal  eyes.  His  body  was  embalmed,  and  in  due  season 
the  funeral  procession  followed.  The  mummied  king  was  placed  aboard 
the  royal  barge,  and,  attended  by  the  priests  and  the  images  of  the  gods 
Horus  and  Isis  and  Hathor,  was  floated  up  the  Nile  to  the  Theban  city 
of  the  Dead  —  to  Biban-el-Mulouk,  the  St.  Denis,  the  Westminster  Ab- 
bey of  the  kings,  and  a  great  lamentation  went  up  to  the  skies  from 
stricken  Egypt. 

As  the  funeral  cortege  journeyed  slowly  on,  the  frantic  people  of  the 
cities  and  villages  flocked  to  the  quays  to  render  homage  to  their  dead 


THE  LAND   OF  GOSHEN. 


ruler.     Even   the  despised   and  persecuted   Hebrew  suspended  labor 
because  his  cruel  overseer  had  forgotten  him.     The  men  rent  their 
garments,  the  women  tore  their  hair,  and  all  gathered  up  the  dust  and 
threw  it  upon  their  heads. 
Tens  of  thousands  of  fune- 
ral offerings  were  cast  into 
the  sacred   river,   and    the 
gods  were  called  upon  to 
attend  the  dead  throughout 
the  sacred  journey.     Those 
were  dire  days  indeed. 

When  the  sad  company 
had  arrived  at  the  necroj)- 
olis,  all  the  complicated  fu- 
neral rites  were  conducted 
with  priestly  ostentation. 

Then  the  body  of  Eam- 
eses  was  sealed  in  the  gi'eat 
sarcophagus  which  had 
been  cut  from  the  limestone 
of  Biban-el-Mulouk.  The 
location  of  the  tomb  was 
well  known  then,  because  it 
had  been  the  habit  of  the 
monai'ch  to  visit  it  fre- 
quently during  its  excava- 
tion. More  than  once  had  the  architect  announced  that  the  tomb  was 
ready,  but  he  was  as  often  met  Tvith  the  command  to  excavate  still  other 
vaulted  halls  and  longer  passages  and  side  chambers,  all  to  be  finished 
with  stuccoed  walls  adorned  by  representations  in  relief  of  the  pro- 
cessions of  the  gods,  of  the  life  and  work  of  the  king,  and  of  the  scara- 
bseus,  the  emblem  of  immortality.  Moreover,  all  were  to  be  richly 
colored.  "  There  is  plenty  of  time  for  all  that  and  much  more  before 
I  am  ready,"  said  Eameses,  and  he  returned  to  his  capital.  But  he 
died  before  the  work  was  completed.  According  to  custom,  after  the 
burial  the  doorway  to  the  tomb  was  walled  up,  and  so  disguised  by 
rocks  and  sand  as  to  make  it  impossible  for  any  but  the  priests  to  dis- 
cover its  whereabouts. 


Entrance    to  the  Tomb  of    Sethi  I.  in  Biblkn-el-Mulouk,  or  ihe 
Valley  of  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings. 


4  Ilf  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

Although  his  orig"inal  tomb,  that  of  his  father  Sethi  I.,  and  that  of 
his  son  Menephtah,  had  long  before  been  discovered,  they  were  emp- 
ty, and  until  July,  1881,  the  real  hiding-place  of  the  "  Pharaoh  of  the 
Oppression  "  was  a  mighty  secret.  Then  its  door  was  opened,  and  soon 
after  history  in  a  measure  repeated  itself — his  mummy  was  carried 
across  the  plain  of  Thebes.  The  story  of  its  finding  is  more  romantic 
than  any  told  in  Egypt  since  Isis  gathered  the  scattered  remains  of 
Osiris  and  buried  his  head  within  the  alabaster  temple  at  Abydus. 

For  a  number  of  years  the  acute  officials  of  the  Museum  of  Antiqui- 
ties at  Bulaq  had  seen  funeral  offerings  and  other  antiquities  brought 
from  Thebes  by  returning  tourists,  which  they  knew  belonged  to  the 
dynasty  of  Rameses  II.,  of  his  father  Sethi  I.,  and  of  his  grandfather 
Kameses  I.  Even  scarabees  bearing  the  cartouch  of  the  great  king  were 
displayed  by  the  innocent  purchasers.  This  being  so,  argued  the  clear- 
headed officials,  the  mummies  of  those  royal  personages  must  have  been 
discovered  by  some  one.  By  whom  ?  Professor  Maspero,  the  Director- 
general  of  the  Bulaq  Museum,  at  once  organized  a  detective  force  to 
help  him  solve  this  conundrum.  Arrest  after  arrest  was  made,  and  the 
bastinado  was  applied  to  many  a  callous  sole  which  had  never  felt  even 
shoe  or  sandal.  The  women  stood  by  and  browbeat  the  sufferers  into 
silence  while  they  endured  the  torture,  and  the  men  refused  all  infor- 
mation. 

In  a  line  of  tombs  beyond  the  Bamesseum  lived  four  sturdy  Arabs 
named  Abd-er-Basoul.  They  supplied  guides  and  donkeys  to  tourists 
who  desired  to  visit  the  ruins  of  Thebes,  and  sold  tliem  genuine  and 
spurious  antiquities.  When  they  found  a  mummy,  it  being  forbidden 
by  law  to  sell  it,  the  head  and  hands  and  feet  were  wrenched  off  and 
sold  on  the  sly,  while  the  torso  was  kicked  about  the  ruined  temples 
until  the  jackals  came  and  carried  it  away.  I  purchased  a  head  and 
hand  of  one  of  the  brothers  amid  the  dark  shadows  of  the  temple  at 
Qteieh.  Early  in  1881  circumstantial  evidence  pointed  to  Ahmed  Abd- 
er-Rasoul  as  the  one  who  knew  more  than  he  would  tell.  Professor 
Maspero  caused  his  arrest,  and  he  lay  in  prison  at  Keneh  for  some 
months.  He  also  suffered  the  bastinado  and  the  browbeating  of  the 
women  repeatedly  ;  he  resisted  bribes,  and  showed  no  melting  mood 
when  threatened  with  execution.  His  lips  told  no  more  than  the  un- 
found  tomb  —  and  not  as  much.  Finally  his  brother  Mohammed  re- 
garded the  offer  of  "  bakhshish,"  which  Professor  Maspero  deemed  it 


THE  LAI{D   OF  GOSHEIf.  5 

wise  to  make,  as  worth  more  to  him  than  any  sum  he  might  hope  to 
realize  frorfi  future  pillaging,  and  made  a  clean  breast  of  the  whole 
affair.  How  the  four  brothers  ever  discovered  the  hidden  tomb  has  re- 
mained a  "  family  secret."  On  July  5,  1881,  the  wily  Arab  conducted 
Herr  Emil  Brugsch  Bey,  curator  of  the  Bulaq  Museum,  to  Deir-el- 


Biban-el-Mulouk;    Entrance-passage  to  the  Tomb  of  Sethi  I.     On  the  left  are  the  Chambers 
of  the  Scarabaeus. 


Bahari  and  pointed  out  the  hiding-place  so  long  looked  for.  A  long 
climb  it  was,  up  the  slope  of  the  western  mountain,  till,  after  scaling  a 
great  limestone  cliff,  a  huge,  isolated  rock  was  found.  Behind  this  a 
spot  was  reached  where  the  stones  appeared  to  an  expert  observer  and 
tomb-searcher  to  have  been  arranged  "  by  hand,"  rather  than  scattered 
by  some  upheaval  of  nature.  "There,"  said  the  sullen  guide;  and 
"  there  "  the  enterprising  Emil  Brugsch  Bey,  with  more  than  Egyptian 


6  US'  SCBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

alacrity,  soon  had  a  staff  of  Arabs  at  work  hoisting-  the  loose  stones 
from  a  well  into  which  they  had  been  thrown. 

The  shaft  had  been  sunk  into  the  solid  limestone  to  the  depth  of 
about  forty  feet,  and  was  about  six  feet  square.  Before  going"  very  far, 
a  huge  palm-log  was  thrown  across  the  well  and  a  block  and  tackle 
fastened  to  it  to  help  bring  up  the  debris.  When  the  bottom  of  the 
shaft  was  reached  a  subterranean  passage  was  found  which  ran  west- 
ward some  twenty -four  feet  and 
then  turned  directly  northward, 
continuing  into  the  heart  of  the 
mountain  straight  except  where 
broken  for  about  two  hundred  feet 
by  an  abrupt  stairway.  The  pas- 
sage terminated  in  a  mortuary  cham- 
ber about  thirteen  by  twenty -three 
feet  in  extent  and  barely  six  feet 
k  '^  ^m        in  height.     There    was    found   the 

iJHy^i^^^j^yi-j^ii^i^^j^^jl       mummy  of  King  Pharaoh  of  the  Op- 

The  Scarabaeus-Emblem  of  Immortality-attended  prCSSioU,  with  UCarly  forty  othcrS  of 

X"  fo°t,  t:I ',t',.;;'"  ""'"""'"       tin^s,  queens,  princes,  a^d  priests. 

Not  until  June,  1886,  was  this 
most  royal  mummy  released  from  its  bandages.  A  few  months  after 
the  romantic  finding  took  place,  accompanied  by  my  camera  I  visited 
the  Bulaq  Museimx  and  photographed  the  entire  "  find."  Emil  Brugsch 
Bey  is  also  an  amateur  photographer,  and  we  had  already  fraternized 
during  the  Centennial  Exhibition  of  1876,  where  the  Egyptian  section 
was  in  his  care.  Therefore  at  Bulaq  I  not  only  enjoyed  a  rare  privi- 
lege at  his  hands,  but  also  his  friendly  advice  and  assistance. 

The  photography  done,  we  embarked  upon  the  Khedive's  steamer 
Beni  Souef  for  Luxor.  There  we  were  met  by  Professor  Maspero  and 
Mohammed  Abd-er-Basoul,  and  together  we  visited  the  scene  of  the 
latest  drama  of  the  Nile.  AYhen  we  reached  the  chamber  of  the  dead, 
the  rope  which  had  hoisted  the  royal  mummies  from  the  tomb  was 
made  fast  to  our  bodies,  was  swung  over  the  palm-log,  and  we  were 
lowered  into  the  depths.  As  I  dangled  in  mid-air  and  swayed  from 
side  to  side,  the  rocky  pieces  which  I  startled  from  their  long  slumber 
warned  those  who  preceded  me  to  "  look  out  below."  At  the  bottom  of 
the  shaft,  on  the  right  and  left  wall  of  the  entrance  to  the  subterranean 


THE  LAND   OF  GOSHEN.  7 

chamber,  were  written  in  black  ink  some  curious  inscriptions.  By 
whom,  no  one  can  more  than  conjecture.  It  was  the  duty  of  the  ancient 
"Inspector  of  Tombs"  to  make  frequent  visits  to  the  royal  dead,  to 
repair  the  mummy-cases  and  wrappings,  and,  if  necessary,  to  remove 
all  to  a  safer  tomb.  This  handwriting  on  the  wall  may  have  been  that 
of  the  Pharaonic  tomb  inspector  whose  duty  it  was  to  make  record 
of  every  change.  Professor  Maspero  being  desirous  of  having  photo- 
graphs made  of  these  inscriptions,  the  little  American  camera  was  set 
for  the  work,  and  succeeded  in  securing  them  even  there  in  the  bowels 


The  Handwriting  on  the  Wall  of  the  Tomb 

of  the  earth.  The  camera  must  have  a  long  time  for  its  delicate,  dif- 
ficult work,  and  so  we  did  not  need  to  hurry. 

Lighting  our  torches  and  stooping  low,  we  proceeded  to  explore 
the  long  passage  and  the  tomb  at  its  terminus.  The  rough  way  was 
scattered  with  fragments  of  mummy-cases,  shreds  of  mummy  cloth, 
bunches  of  papyrus  plant,  lotus  flowers,  and  palm-leaf  stalks,  while 
here  and  there  a  funeral  offering  was  found.  After  much  stumbling  we 
arrived  at  the  inner  chamber  where,  but  a  few  weeks  before,  stood  or 
reclined  the  cofhns  of  so  many  royal  dead. 

Seated  ux)on  a  stone  which  for  centuries  had  served  as  the  pillow  of 
priest  or  king  while  waiting  for  immortality,  Herr  Brugsch  told  me 
the  whole  story  of  his  historical  "  find."  It  was  a  unique  interview.  It 
made  such  an  impression  upon  my  mind  that  I  can  repeat  the  story 
here  from  memory,  though  I  do  not,  of  course,  claim  that  the  report  is 
verbatim. 

"Finding  Pharaoh  was  an  exciting  experience  for  me,"  said  my 
companion.  "It  is  true  I  was  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  my  faithful 
rifle,  full  of  shells,  hung  over  my  shoulder;  but  my  assistant  from 
Cairo,  Ahmed  Effendi  Kemal,  was  the  only  person  with  me  whom  I 


8 


J/T  SCBIPTUBE  LANDS. 


could  trust.  Any  one  of  the  natives  would  have  killed  me  willingly, 
had  we  been  alone,  for  every  one  of  them  knew  better  than  I  did  that  I 
was  about  to  deprive  them  of  a  great  source  of  revenue.     But  I  ex- 


Outer  Mummy-case  of  Queen  Ahmes  Nofretari. 


posed  no  sign  of  fear  and  proceeded  with  the  work.  The  well  cleared 
out,  I  descended  and  began  the  exploration  of  the  underground  pas- 
sage.    Soon  we  came  upon  cases  of  porcelain  funeral  offerings,  metal 


THE  LAND  OF  GOSHEN.  9 

and  alabaster  vessels,  draperies  and  trinkets,  until,  reaching-  the  turn  in 
the  passage,  a  cluster  of  mummy-cases  came  into  view  in  such  number 
as  to  stagger  me.  Collecting  my  senses,  I  made  the  best  examination 
of  them  I  could  by  the  light  of  my  torch,  and  at  once  saw  that  they  con- 
tained the  mummies  of  royal  personages  of  both  sexes ;  and  yet  that 
was  not  all.  Plunging  on  ahead  of  my  guide,  I  came  to  the  chamber 
where  we  are  now  seated,  and  there  standing  against  the  walls  or  here 
lying  on  the  floor,  I  found  even  a  greater  number  of  mummy-cases  of 
stupendous  size  and  weight.  Their  gold  coverings  and  their  polished 
surfaces  so  plainly  reflected  my  own  excited 
visage  that  it  seemed  as  though  I  was  looking 
into  the  faces  of  my  own  ancestors.  The  gilt 
face  on  the  cofiin  of  the  amiable  Queen  Nofre- 
tari  seemed  to  smile  ui)on  me  like  an  old  ac- 
quaintance. I  took  in  the  situation  quickly, 
with  a  gasp,  and  hurried  to  the  open  air  lest  I 
should  be  overcome  and  the  glorious  prize  still 
unrevealed  be  lost  to  science.  It  was  almost 
sunset   then.     Already  the   odor  which   arose 

Gold-faced  Inner  Miimmy- case  of 

from  the  tomb  had  cajoled  a  troupe  of  slinking        Queen  Ahmes  Nofretari.  Photo- 

11,         ji  -111,!  lj.li  1J  graphed  at  the  BaiSq  Museum. 

jackals  to  the  neighborhood,  and  the  howl  oi 

hyenas  was  heard  not  far  distant.  A  long  line  of  ^^Itures  sat  upon  the 
highest  pinnacles  of  the  cliffs  near  by,  ready  for  their  hateful  work. 
The  valley  was  as  still  as  death.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the  night  was 
occupied  in  hiring  men  to  helj)  remove  the  precious  relics  from  their 
hiding-place.     There  was  but  little  sleep  in  Luxor  that  night. 

"  Early  the  next  morning  three  hundred  Arabs  were  employed  under 
my  direction — each  one  a  thief.  One  by  one  the  coffins  were  hoisted  to 
the  surface,  were  securely  sewed  up  in  sail-cloth  and  matting,  and  then 
were  carried  across  the  plain  of  Thebes  to  the  steamers  awaiting  them 
at  Luxor.  Two  squads  of  Arabs  accompanied  each  sarcophagus — one 
to  carry  it  and  a  second  to  watch  the  wily  carriers.  When  the  Nile 
overflow,  lying  midway  of  the  plain,  was  reached,  as  many  more,  boat- 
men, entered  the  service  and  bore  the  burden  to  the  other  side.  Then 
a  third  set  took  up  the  ancient  freight  and  carried  it  to  the  steamers. 
Slow  workers  are  these  Egyptians,  but  after  six  days  of  hard  labor 
under  the  July  sun  the  work  was  finished.  I  shall  never  forget  the 
scenes  I  witnessed  when,  standing  at  the  mouth  of  the  shaft,  I  watched 


10 


IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


the  strange  line  of  helpers  while  they  carried  across  that  historical 
plain  the  bodies  of  the  very  kings  who  had  constructed  the  temples 
still  standing,  and  of  the  very  priests  who  had  officiated  in  them ;  then, 
beyond  all,  some  more  of  the  plain,  the  line  of  the  Nile,  and  the  Arabian 
hills  far  to  the  east  and  above  all ;  and  with  all,  slowly  moving  down 
the  cliffs  and  across  the  plain,  or  in  the  boats  crossing  the  stream,  were 
the  sullen  laborers  carrying  their  antique  burdens.     As  the  Ked  Sea 

opened  and  allowed  Israel 
to  pass  across  dry-shod,  so 
opened  the  silence  of  the 
Theban  plain,  allowed  the 
strange  funeral  procession 
to  pass — and  then  all  was 
hushed  again.  When  you  go 
up,  you  will  see  it  all  spread 
out  before  you  —  with  the 
help  of  a  little  imagination. 
"  When  we  made  our  de- 
parture from  Luxor,  our  late 
helpers  squatted  in  groups 
upon  the  Theban  side  and 
silently  watched  us.  The 
news  had  been  sent  down 
the  Nile  in  advance  of  us. 
So,  when  we  passed  the 
towns,  the  people  gathered 
at  the  quays  and  made  most  frantic  demonstrations.  The  fantasia 
dancers  were  holding  their  wildest  orgies  here  and  there ;  a  strange 
wail  went  up  from  the  men ;  the  women  were  screaming  and  tearing 
their  hair,  and  the  children  were  so  frightened  I  pitied  them.  A  few 
fanatical  dervishes  plunged  into  the  river  and  tried  to  reach  us,  but  a 
sight  of  the  rifle  drove  them  back,  cursing  us  as  they  swam  away. 
At  night  fires  were  kindled  and  guns  were  fired.  At  last  we  arrived  at 
Bulaq,  where  I  soon  confirmed  my  impressions  that  we  had  indeed 
recovered  the  mummies  of  the  majority  of  the  rulers  of  Egypt  during 
the  eighteenth,  nineteenth,  twentieth,  and  twenty -first  dynasties,  in- 
cluding Kameses  11.,  Kameses  III.,  King  Pinotem,  the  high-priest 
Nebseni,  and  Queen  Nofretari,  all  of  which  you  have  seen  and  photo- 


Head  of  Pinotem  II,     Pnotographed  Irom  the  mummy. 


Professor  Maspero,   Emil  Brugsch  Bey,  and  Mohammed  Abd-er-Rasoul.     Photographed  at  the  mouth  of  the 

shaft,   Deir-el-Bahari. 


12  JiY  SGBIPTUEE  LANDS. 

graphed  at  Biilaq,  arranged  pretty  much  as  I  found  them  in  their  long- 
hidden  tomb.  And  thus  our  Museum  became  the  third  and  probably 
the  final  resting-place  of  the  mummy  of  the  great  Pharaoh  of  the 
Oppression." 

Thus  was  the  story  of  finding  Pharaoh  modestly  told  me  by  my 
friend,  who  had  displayed  such  enthusiasm  and  tact  in  securing  for 
science  what  had  puzzled  science  for  so  long  a  time  to  discover. 

When  we  ascended  from  the  tomb  I  grouped  my  companions  at  its 
mouth  and  once  more  caused  the  camera  to  secure  a  link  of  history. 
Professor  Maspero  reclined  upon  the  rocks  at  the  right ;  Emil  Brugsch 
Bey  stood  at  the  palm-log ;  and  Mohammed  was  posed  in  front,  hold- 
ing the  very  rope  in  his  hand  which  had  served  in  hoisting  royalty 
from  its  long-hidden  resting-place.  Then  the  camera  was  turned  east- 
ward and  the  most  imposing  of  all  the  Nile  views  was  made  from  the 
mouth  of  that  noted  sepulchre.  Splendid  ruins  are  included  in  that 
long  line  stretching  from  north  to  south !  The  cluster  on  the  left  is 
the  temiDle  of  Qumeh,  erected  as  a  vast  cenotaph  in  remembrance  of 
Bameses  I.  There  his  relatives  gathered  on  certain  days  to  evoke  the 
memory  of  their  dead  as  enjoined  by  the  sacred  rites.  There,  in  the 
Memorial  Chapel,  is  the  family  portrait-gallery.  Statues  of  the  kings, 
the  queens,  and  the  princes  are  there,  and  their  genealogies  are  sculpt- 
ured upon  the  walls.  It  is  the  site  of  the  great  Pharaonic  "  family- 
tree,"  and  even  now  tells  of  the  efforts  made  by  this  powerful  dynasty 
to  secure  immortality.  Not  far  away,  and  next,  is  the  Eamesseum, 
where  the  colossal  caryatides  and  the  stupendous  columns  have  defied 
earthquake  and  the  vandal  for  so  long,  though  the  great  monolith  which 
was  erected  there — the  "  likeness  "  of  Bameses  II. — lies  half-embedded 
in  the  sand,  broken  into  fragments.  The  Bamesseum  was  erected  dur- 
ing the  lifetime  of  the  king  and  under  his  personal  supervision. 

What  wondrous  faith  in  the  doctrine  of  immortality  this  great  king 
evinced,  not  only  by  securing,  as  he  thought,  the  careful  hiding  of  his 
mummy,  but  by  a  lavish  supply  of  sculpture  on  a  colossal  scale !  No 
king  made  such  ostentatious  show  of  his  ambition.  Of  no  king  so  much 
remains  of  craftsman's  skill,  of  artist's  labor,  and  of  poet's  lore  to  per- 
petuate his  name  and  fame.  And  now  the  tomb  has  given  up  the  dead 
Pharaoh,  and  his  mummy  stands  surrounded  by  some  of  the  very  works 
whose  lustrous  polish  and  exact  engraving  he  caused  to  be  done  with 
so  much  care. 


THE  LAND  OF  GOSHEN.  15 

The  temple  of  Deir-el-Baliari  occupies  the  centre  of  the  group.  It 
is  nearer  to  the  great  "  Coffin  Mountain,"  and  its  majestic  debris  is  in- 
termixed with  the  ruins  of  a  Christian  monastery.  The  iDerpendicular 
limestone  cliffs  near  it  run  in  a  northwesterly  direction  down  into  the 
valley  of  Biban-el-Mulouk.  To  the  glory  of  Hatasou,  who  was  in  turn 
queen,  regent,  and  king,  this  temple  was  raised.  The  original  plan  of 
Deir-el-Bahari  was  a  singular  one.  A  long  avenue  of  sphinxes  led  to 
it,  and  two  obelisks  stood  at  the  fa9ade.  Magnificent  terraces  were 
stretched  out  in  front,  one  court  leading  up  to  another  by  easy  ascent. 
After  Hatasou  had  long  since  passed  away,  and  her  devoted  people  no 
longer  evoked  her  spirit  there,  her  temple  was  used  as  a  receptacle  for 
the  mummies  of  the  Grecian  people.  The  bass-reliefs  of  this  temple 
describe  how  the  willing  subjects  were  wont  to  march  to  conquest,  and 
how  they  conquered  in  the  name  of  their  fair  ruler.  Troops,  sailors, 
ships,  row-boats,  merchandise,  products  of  foreign  lands  upon  which 
levy  was  made,  animals  from  tropical  countries — are  all  cut  upon  the 
walls  of  the  various  apartments  of  this  magnificent  pile.  Some  of  the 
figures  retain  all  the  glow  of  rich  color  left  upon  them  by  the  ancient 
painter. 

The  Deir-el-Medineh  stands  toward  the  south,  almost  hidden  in  a 
hollow,  and  is  but  a  small  structure.  It  was  begun  by  Ptolemy  Philo- 
pater  and  completed  by  his  successors.  It  was  likewise  for  funereal 
purposes.  Osiris  is  among  the  deities  mentioned  by  the  inscriptions 
on  the  walls  and  columns.  Its  fa9ade  is  one  of  the  best  preserved  in 
Egypt,  and  of  magnificent  design.  Quite  as  much  of  it  lies  scattered 
upon  the  sandy  floors  of  its  roofless  apartments  as  stands  erect. 

Quite  a  distance  farther  to  the  south  is  a  large,  sombre-looking  pile, 
from  which  emerge  some  constructions  of  still  another  and  cruder  vari- 
ety. This  unattractive  collection  is  a  Coptic  village,  which  grew  up 
here  after  the  ancient  rites  of  Egypt  had  been  abandoned — all  around 
and  above  an  almost  buried  temple,  whose  ruins  still  remain.  The 
temple  is  that  of  Medinet-Abou,  so  named  after  the  miserable  village 
which,  barnacle-like,  had  attached  itself  to  the  ancient  walls. 

Sometimes  Medinet-Abou  is  called  "the  Versailles  of  Thebes."  It 
was  erected  to  commemorate  the  glory  of  Eameses  III.,  whose  mummy 
also  was  carried  across  the  plain  in  July,  1881.  But,  instead  of  being  a 
single  temple,  Medinet-Abou  is  composed  of  two  separate  ones — the 
temple  of  Thothmes  m.  and  the  temple  of  Eameses  III.     That  Koman 


16  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

royalty  also  once  flourished  here  is  proved  by  the  fact  that  on  the  walls 
of  the  first  temple  are  inscribed  the  names  of  Titus,  Hadrian,  and  An- 
toninus. 

Enough  cartouches  of  the  more  ancient  rulers  are  found  upon  the 
walls  of  this  smaller  structure  to  call  forth  remembrances  running  from 
the  time  of  Thothmes  III.  to  Nectanebo  II.,  350  B.C.  The  larger  tem- 
ple of  Rameses  III.  gives  most  pleasure  to  the  average  traveller,  be- 
cause it  carries  the  mind  away  from  the  grim  suggestions  of  the  tomb 
to  the  more  cheerful  elements  of  a  palatial  home.  Eor  this  was  a 
palace  and  not  a  tomb.  It  had  all  the  characteristics  of  a  regal  habita- 
tion. On  the  wall  of  one  of  the  apartments  the  lovely  daughter  of 
Eameses  m.  is  represented  bringing  flowers  to  her  father.  He  is  seen 
playing  draughts  with  another,  and  is  offered  fruits  by  a  third,  whom 
he  caresses  in  acknowledgment.  There  is  a  colonnade  nearly  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  whose  lofty  figured  columns  are 
twenty -four  feet  in  circumference.  The  great  court  is  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  square.  Splendid  cornices,  florid  capitals,  richly  decorated 
courts,  and  vivid  hieroglyphs — examples  of  the  highest  skill  of  the 
sculptor — here  abound,  in  strange  contrast  with  the  remains  of  the 
modern  buildings  seen  piled  upon  the  roof.  One  of  the  apartments  is 
called  the  "  Christian  Court."  It  was  occupied  by  the  early  Christians 
as  a  church.  Plenty  of  evidence  proving  this  fact  is  seen.  Not  only 
did  the  fanatical  iconoclasts  plaster  over  the  walls  of  the  chambers  "  to 
cover  pagan  rites,"  but  they  tore  down  many  of  the  fine  columns  and 
re-erected  them,  turning  the  hieroglyphed  surfaces  inside.  When  this 
could  not  be  done,  they  hacked  and  defaced  them  with  their  axes  until 
their  ardor  was  cooled.  Thus  many  of  the  most  splendid  monuments 
of  Thebes  and  other  sections  of  Upper  Egypt  were  defaced  or  de- 
stroyed. Therefore  the  messages  of  the  past  gathered  from  these 
structures  must  be  as  fragmentary  as  are  those  obtained  from  the  time- 
mouldered  papjrri. 

In  front  of  this  succession  of  structures  was  the  city  of  Thebes. 
Nothing  else  remains  to  represent  it  or  to  tell  its  tale,  except  the  vast 
necropolis,  on  the  west  and  north,  and  the  twin  colossi  yet  much 
farther  to  the  south  and  east.  When  Thebes  was  destroyed,  these  two 
monsters  guarded  the  approach  to  the  great  Memnonium  of  King 
Amenoi)his.  His  name  is  written  upon  their  pedestals.  They  have 
remained  at  their  station,   facing    the    implacable    sun,   ever    since. 


The  Colossi  of  Thebes. 


18 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


Earthquake  shattered  them  somewhat,  27  B.C.,  but  they  look  good  for 
another  thousand  years.  Their  faces  are  by  no  means  handsome ;  they 
impress  one  most  when  viewed  from  the  back.  Their  very  attitude  is 
expressive  of  patience  and  quiet,  and  yet  one  is  almost  frightened  at 
their  size.  The  northern  one  is  the  famed  "  Yocal  Memnon,"  which, 
tradition  avers,   once  gave  out  sweet    sounds    of    music  at  sunrise. 


Abundant  testimony  as  to  this  is  found  engraved 

in   line    and  verse  upon  its  pedestal,   by  king, 

queen,  prince,  and  poet,  who  made  pilgrimages 

hither  to  hear  the  "  heaven-sent  voice  "  wail  "  when 

the  sun  left  the  majestic  waves  of  the  ocean,  and,  shooting  forth  his 

rays,  announced  the  return  of  day  to  the  mortals  there  assembled." 

Originally  the  height  of  the  colossi  was  sixty-four  feet — as  high  as  a 

five-storied  house. 

We  have  now  considered  the  ruins  which  remain  in  the  gTeat  valley 
of  Thebes.  A  city  of  equal  importance  existed  in  the  bosom  of  the 
rugged  limestone  cliffs  on  the  west — the  great  encircling  wall  of  the 
necropolis  of  Thebes  —  Biban-el-Mulouk.  Still  the  entrances  to  its 
subterraneous  tombs  are  s6en  in  the  faces  of  the  cliffs,  looking  like  the 
port-holes  in  the  sides  of  a  ship -of -war — the  gate-ways  to  the  city  of 
the  dead.  Not  a  thing  of  life  is  seen.  All  is  dismal  and  gloomy — the 
very  antipodes  of  our  own  beautiful  cemeteries.  The  scorching  sun 
seems  to  have  levied  upon  the  hills  for  the  last  drop  of  moisture 
heaven  gave  them.  Underneath  are  miles  and  miles  of  tombs  now 
rifled,  but  once  the  resting-places  of  kings  and  loeople  who  shaped  the 
destinies  of  the  world  for  ages. 

About  all  the  life  there  is  remaining  near  Thebes  now  is  across  the 
river  at  Luxor.    There  the  royal  barge,  which  bore  the  kingly  mummy 


THE  LAND  OF  GOSHEN. 


19 


tliree  thousand  three  hundred  years  ago,  must  have  landed — perhaps 
sacred  rites  were  performed  in  memory  of  the  dead  one  in  the  temple, 
whose  ruins  we  see  reaching-  high  in  air.  We  know  that  the  modem 
steamboat  which  carried  the  "  great  find "  back  to  Cairo  —  back  to 
the  land  of  Goshen,  received  its  historical  freight  at  the  port  of  Luxor. 
Many  a  generation  will  pass  before  the  natives  will  forget  that  impos- 
ing event,  for  the  strange 
story  will  be  kept  alive. 
"When  evening  comes  the 
natives  cross  over  to  the 
plain  of  Thebes,  and,  gath- 
ered in  little  groups,  "face 
Mecca  "  and  pray.  But  they 
do  not  always  clearly  com- 
jDrehend  whether  or  not  God 
and  the  great  Eameses  are 
one  and  the  same. 

The  day  after  our  visit 
the  shaft  was  filled  up  again, 
thus  closing  the  door  of  the 
empty  theatre,  for  the  drama 
was  ended,  and  the  actors 
were  gone. 

I  made  a  long  Nile  jour- 
ney after  that,  and  photo- 
graphed many  a  stone  -  cut 
"permanent  likeness"  of 
"  the  Michael  Angelo  of 
Egypt." 

The  profile  of  the 
southern  colossus  of  the 
Great    Temple    at    Abou- 

Simbel  has  all  these  centuries  retained  the  beautiful  expression  left  it 
by  the  Nubian  chisel,  and  iDresents  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  pho- 
tograph of  the  recently  unfolded  mummy  of  the  great  king.  Of  this 
unfolding  the  world  has  been  told  by  almost  every  newspaper  in  it. 
"WTien  I  was  at  Bulaq,  all  I  could  catch  of  the  Sesostris  face  and  form 
was  as  it  appeared  after  the  last  neat  work  of  the  Inspector  of  Tombs 


Profile  of  Rameses  II.     Photograph  of  the   Southern  Colossus 
at  the  Great  Temple  of  Abou-Simbel. 


20 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


^m 


had  been  finished.  Since  the  unfolding-,  the  camera  of  Brugsch  Bey 
has  enabled  us  all  to  "  see  how  Pharaoh  looked."  Likewise  the  report 
of    Professor    Maspero,  giving"  the  particulars  of  his  removal  of  the 

wrappings,  has  been 
a  topic  of  conversa- 
tion all  over  the 
wide  world. 

Only  fifteen  min- 
utes were  occupied 
in  undoing  the  labor 
of  many  days  by  the 
careful  embalmers. 
The  kingly  body 
had  "reposed  in 
peace  "  at  least  twice 
as  long  as  was  en- 
joined by  the  faith 
of  Isis  in  order  to 
secure  immortality. 
As  recently  as  1880 
it  was  offered  to  an  American  traveller  "  for  a  reasonable  bakhshish," 
but  declined  because  its  genuineness  was  doubted. 

But  no  doubt  now  exists,  for  "  in  black  ink,  written  upon  the  mum- 
my-case by  the  high -priest  and  King  Pinotem,  is  the  record  testi- 
fying to  the  identity  of  the  royal  contents."  Then  "  upon  the  outer 
winding-sheet  of  the  mummy,  over  the  region  of  the  breast,"  the  indis- 
putable testimony  is  repeated.  The  coverings  being  all  removed  by 
the  careful  hands  of  Professor  Maspero,  in  the  presence  of  the  Khe- 
dive and  other  distinguished  persons,  Kameses  II.  appeared.  Professor 
Maspero  further  reports  that  "  the  head  is  long,  and  small  in  propor- 
tion to  the  body.  The  top  of  the  skull  is  quite  bare.  On  the  temples 
there  are  a  few  sparse  hairs,  but  at  the  poll  the  hair  is  quite  thick, 
forming  smooth,  straight  locks  about  five  centimetres  in  length.  White 
at  the  time  of  death,  they  have  been  dyed  a  light  yellow  by  the  spices 
used  in  embalmment.  The  forehead  is  low  and  narrow ;  the  brow-ridge 
prominent ;  the  eyebrows  are  thick  and  white ;  the  eyes  are  small  and 
close  together ;  the  nose  is  long,  thin,  arched  like  noses  of  the  Bour- 
bons, and  slightly  crushed  at  the  tip  by  the  pressure  of  the  bandages. 


Pictures  on  the  Walls  of  the  Great  Temple  at  Abu  Simbel.  Showing  Rameses 
II.  fighting  from  his  chariot,  in  personal  combat,  and  passing  sentence  on 
captives. 


THE  LAND   OF  GOSHEN. 


21 


The  temples  are  sunken ;  the  cheek-bones  very  prominent ;  the  ears 
round,  standing  far  out  from  the  head,  and  pierced  like  those  of  a 
woman  for  the  wearing-  of  ear-rings.  The  jaw-bone  is  massive  and 
strong ;  the  chin  very  prominent ;  the  mouth  small,  but  thick-lipped, 
and  full  of  some  kind  of  black  paste.  This  paste  being  partly  cut  away 
with  the  scissors,  disclosed  some  much  worn  and  very  brittle  teeth, 
which,  moreover,  are  white  and  well  preserved.     The  mustache  and 


Rameses  II,   immediately  after  Unfolding.      From  a  photograph  by  Emil 
Brugsch  Bey. 

beard  are  thin.  They  seem  to  have  been  kept  shaven  during  life,  but 
were  probably  allowed  to  grow  during  the  king's  last  illness,  or  they 
may  have  grown  after  death.  The  hairs  are  white,  like  those  of  the 
head  and  eyebrows,  but  are  harsh  and  bristly,  and  from  two  to  three 
millimetres  in  length.  The  skin  is  of  earthy  brown,  spotted  with  black. 
Finally,  it  may  be  said,  the  face  of  the  mummy  gives  a  fair  idea  of 
the  face  of  the  living  king.  The  expression  is  unintellectual,  perhaps 
slightly  animal ;  but  even  under  the  somewhat  grotesque  disguise  of 


22  IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

mummification,  there  is  plainly  to  be  seen  an  air  of  sovereign  majesty, 
of  resolve,  and  of  pride.  The  rest  of  the  body  is  as  well  preserved  as 
the  head ;  but,  in  consequence  of  the  reduction  of  the  tissues,  its  exter- 
nal aspect  is  less  life-like.  The  neck  is  no  thicker  than  the  vertebral 
column.  The  chest  is  broad ;  the  shoulders  are  square ;  the  arms  are 
crossed  upon  the  breast ;  the  hands  are  small  and  dyed  with  henna ; 
and  the  wound  in  the  left  side,  through  which  the  embalmers  extracted 
the  viscera,  is  large  and  open.  The  legs  and  thighs  are  fleshless  ;  the 
feet  are  long,  slender,  somewhat  flat-soled,  and  dyed,  like  the  hands, 
with  henna.  The  corpse  is  that  of  an  old  man,  but  of  a  vigorous  and 
robust  old  man.  We  know,  indeed,  that  Rameses  II.  reigned  for  sixty- 
seven  years,  and  that  he  must  have  been  nearly  one  hundred  years  old 
when  he  died." 

On  the  same  day  that  the  face  of  the  great  Sesostris  was  unwrap- 
ped, the  mummy  of  Rameses  lU.  was  also  revealed  and  his  identity  es- 
tablished beyond  question.  And  now  these  old-time  kings  stand  in  the 
glass  cases  of  the  Museum  at  Cairo,  in  as  close  companionship  with 
Pinotem  and  Sethi  I.  as  they  were  when  found  in  their  sequestered 
retreat.  The  father  of  "  Pharaoh's  daughter  "  is  one  of  the  collection. 
Fear  of  him  caused  the  mother  of  Moses  to  hide  her  babe  in  the  bul- 
rushes. 

Once  kings,  princes,  and  priests,  monarchs,  tyrants,  and  oppressors, 
"  equal  with  the  gods " — they  now  appear  labelled  and  numbered  as 
"  antiquities,"  where  all  who  desire  may  go  and  face  them  without  fear. 
When  they  were  first  borne  to  the  tomb,  their  frightened  subjects 
cried  to  the  gods  for  their  entrance  into  immortality ;  and  one  of  those 
gods  was  Rameses  11.,  represented  at  Pithom  in  red  syenite,  seated  in 
an  arm-chair  between  the  two  solar  gods  Ra  and  Tum.  But  when. they 
were  carried  back  to  the  Delta,  the  folds  of  sand  which  had  for  cen- 
turies covered  their  ancient  city  Zoan  were  being  unwrapped  by  the 
spade  and  pick  of  the  "  Egyptian  Exploration  Fund,"  and  their  fright- 
ened descendants  cried  unto  Allah — the  God  of  Israel ! 

Using  the  Bible  record  to  guide  us,  as  near  as  we  can  make  it  out, 
we  will  follow  the  track  of  the  Israelites,  leaving,  as  they  did,  the  Land 
of  Goshen  behind  us. 


CHAPTEK    n. 

SINAI  AND  THE  WILDERNESS. 

Journeying  to  the  "  Mount  of  God," — Preparation  at  the  "  Wells  of  Moses." — The  First 
Night  in  the  Desert. — A  Day  on  Camel-back. — At  Marah. — Sheikh  Mousa. — Map- 
ping the  Route. — Elim. — "  Encamped  by  the  Red  Sea." — A  Last  View  of  Goshen. — 
At  the  Mines  of  Maghara.— In  the  "Written  Valley."— By  "The  Rock  Struck  by 
Moses." — Wady  Feiran. — "Pitched  in  Rephidim." — Where  Joshua  and  Amalek 
Fought.— The  Ascent  of  Mount  Serbal.— The  "  Gate  of  Sinai."— The  "Plain  of  the 
Assemblage." — Mount  Sinai  in  Sight. — Jebel  Mousa. — "The  Mountain  of  Moses." 
— At  the  Convent  of  St.  Catherine. — Climbing  up  the  Sinaitic  Peaks. — Jethro's 
Well.— The  Chapel  of  the  Virgin —The  Gateways.— The  Chapels  of  Elijah  and 
.  Elisha. — Views  from  the  Summits. — The  Plain  of  Er  Raha. — Ras-Sufsafeh — "The 
True  Sinai." 

^INCE  more  or  less  peril  attends  the  long  journey  oyer  the  tradi- 
'^  tional  route  of  the  Israelites  from  the  "  Land  of  Goshen  "  to  the 
"  Mount  of  God,"  the  first  care  should  be  to  secure  an  honest  and  brave 
dragoman.  My  trust  was  placed  in  Mohammed  Achmed  Effendi  Hedai- 
yah,  of  Alexandria.  We  left  Cairo  one  morning"  in  February  and  rode 
through  the  land  of  Goshen  by  rail.  We  arrived  at  Suez  before  dark, 
and  took  up  our  quarters  in  a  street  as  curious  as  the  Mouskee  in 
Cairo.  Our  coming  had  been  heralded  by  our  body-servant  Abdullah, 
who  preceded  us  to  take  care  of  our  camp  equipage  and  to  secure  a 
boat  for  our  passage  across  the  Red  Sea. 

The  sail  was  a  lovely  one  of  about  two  hours,  including  a  halt  at 
quarantine.  Our  camels  awaited  us  at  the  Asiatic  quay,  and  in  an 
hour  they  had  carried  us  to  the  "Wells  of  Moses."  Only  a  small 
sirring  of  brackish  water  was  found  at  the  foot  of  a  palm,  but,  said  our 
devout  dragoman,  "  it  is  the  very  place  where  the  Israelites  first  en- 
cami)ed."  Moses  here  sang  the  song  of  deliverance,  and  here  Miriam's 
sweet  tones  led  the  hearts  of  the  Israelites  away  from  their  tribula- 
tions. What  an  event  in  my  life  it  was,  that  first  night  in  the  desert ! 
Everything  looked  larger  and  farther  off  than  usual,  except  the  stars, 
which  seemed  to  come  down  into  the  clear  atmosphere  like  incandes- 


24  IJSr  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

cent  lights  inside  their  globes.  The  pages  of  a  new,  great  Yolume 
were  turned  over  before  me,  presenting  all  the  strange,  vague  images 
of  the  Arabian  Nights'  Entertainment  with  lifelike  realism. 

The  Bedouin  attendants  had  arranged  their  camels  on  the  ground 
in  semicircular  groups.  Against  the  inward-turned  haunches  of  the 
beasts  our  camp  luggage  was  placed  for  protection  from  marauders. 
In  the  centre  of  each  semicircle  a  fire  of  brush  and  twigs  had  been 
kindled.  Around  these  fires  the  more  idle  of  the  swarthy  fellows 
squatted,  and  toasted  their  bare  shins  while  they  spun  their  wondrous 
tales  and  waited  for  their  evening  meal  of  barley  cakes  to  bake  in  the 
hot  ashes.  A  few  of  the  more  industrious  pounded  beans  in  stone  mor- 
tars for  camel  fodder.  This  weird  night-scene  was  made  to  look  all 
the  more  picturesque  by  the  red  glare  caught  upon  the  faces  of  the 
Arabs,  and  by  the  twinkling  high-lights  which  played  from  one  awk- 
ward, protruding  camel -joint  to  another. 

We  dined  at  6  p.m.  Our  first  meal  in  the  desert  was  like  that 
which  followed  at  the  end  of  each  day — soup,  boiled  chicken,  mutton, 
beans,  potatoes,  lettuce,  bread  and  butter,  rice  pudding,  oranges, 
nuts,  figs,  mandarins,  and  Mocha  coffee.  Of  course  as  the  days 
went  on  the  supply  of  delicacies  became  exhausted,  but  we  always 
had  food  enough  to  satisfy  our  enormous  appetites.  Breakfast  con- 
sisted of  meat,  potatoes,  oatmeal,  fruit  and  coffee.  At  noon  a  halt  was 
always  made,  a  small  tent  pitched,  and  a  cold  lunch  partaken  of — 
chicken,  eggs,  fruit,  and  tea  sufficient  to  sustain  life  until  a  new  camp 
was  reached  at  the  close  of  the  day.  Our  tents  were  supplied  with 
Persian  rugs,  an  iron  bedstead,  a  small  table,  and  a  metal  pitcher  and 
basin.  Our  first  sleep  under  cover  of  the  tent  was  undisturbed  until 
daybreak,  when  the  growling  of  the  camels  caused  us  to  abandon  all 
hope  of  further  rest.  An  early  start  was  made.  AYhen  our  caravan  rose 
from  the  desert  I  could  see  the  net  result  of  Hedaiyah's  care  and  tact 
and  enterprise.  There  were  seventeen  camels  and  twenty-one  attend- 
ants. 

"When  I  first  saw  the  camels,  one  foreleg  of  each  was  bent  up  and  a 
strong  cord  tied  around  the  joint,  so  that  the  beasts,  thus  hobbled, 
could  not  stray  out  of  sight.  When  all  was  made  ready  for  the  march, 
these  bands  were  loosened.  Upon  the  camels'  humps  were  tied  our 
tents  and  tent-poles ;  casks  of  water,  padlocked  to  prevent  the  camel 
drivers  from  stealing  the  scanty  fluid ;  great  boxes  of  provisions  ;  sacks 


SIJSTAI  AND    THE   WILDERNESS. 


25 


of  charcoal  and  a  sheet-iron  stove ;  crates  of  oranges  and  hampers  with 
eg-gs,  and  cooking  utensils ;  coops  of  live  chickens,  pigeons,  and  tur- 
keys; beds  and  bedding;  and  twenty  solid  leather  trunks  of  photo- 
graphic plates.  In  the  caravan  went  two  live  sheep  to  provide  fresh 
mutton  when  wanted.  Six  riding-camels  brought  up  the  rear.  These 
last  were  saddled  for  the  four  "howadji,"  Hedaiyah,  and  Abdullah, 


The  Wells  of  Moses. 


whenever,  tired  of  walking,  we  chose  to  mount  them.  Each  camel  was 
attended  by  its  driver,  who  was  usually  its  owner  also,  and  took  good 
care  that  it  was  not  overtaxed. 

Every  night  all  this  "  outfit "  had  to  be  taken  apart,  assorted,  and 
shaped  into  the  conveniences  of  camp.  Every  morning  it  had  to  be 
loaded  for  the  day's  travel  amidst  the  growls  of  the  camels,  the 
screeches  of  the  Bedouins,  and  the  earnest  commands  of  our  dragoman. 
I  never  could  decide  which  was  the  best  camel  or  who  the  least  profane 


26  IN  8CBIPTURE  LANDS. 

of  the  Arabs.  If  I  fixed  upon  one  as  my  good  camel,  the  next  moming" 
I  would  find  him  protesting  against  every  pound  placed  upon  his  ugly 
hump.  If  I  ventured  to  call  Ali  or  Yusef  my  good  boy,  the  next  time 
we  broke  up  camp  I  would  find  them  trying  to  sneak  off  with  a  light 
load. '  Moreover,  it  cost  me  fifteen  days  of  anxious  watching  to  find 
the  rooster  whose  crowing  awakened  me  before  light  every  morn- 
ing. Each  morning  on  hearing  him  outside  my  tent  I  quickly  peered 
through  the  door  and  detected  him.  Abdullah  was  thereupon  ordered 
to  "  off  with  his  head "  for  the  coming  lunch.  The  next  morning  a 
cheerful  voice  greeted  me  as  usual.  Not  until  fifteen  premature  and 
unjust  executions  had  been  perpetrated  was  the  correct  chanticleer 
caught.  He  was  the  last  of  his  company,  and  died  because  he  could 
not  take  a  hint. 

The  first  day  of  travel  was  one  of  rare  pleasures  and  surprises.  In- 
stead of  having  to  plough  knee-deep  through  desert  sand,  as  I  had  an- 
ticipated, there  was  a  gravelly  bottom  to  travel  upon.  The  air  was 
clear  and  fresh,  but  the  sun  was  merciless  and  the  heat  reflected  from 
below  was  intense.  Nearly  all  day  the  blue  sea  was  in  sight.  The 
mirage  lifted  long  groves  of  tall  palm-trees,  which  seemed  to  beckon 
us  to  a  welcome  shade ;  but  when  we  diverged  a  little  from  the  track 
to  see  if  they  were  real,  the  delusion  disappeared  and  only  the  moun- 
tains of  Tih,  far  over  on  the  Egyptian  side,  were  seen. 

The  second  night  we  encamped  at  "Wady  Siirdiir,  where  the  bitter 
wells  of  Marah  were  visited.  Only  by  digging  in  the  sand  could  we 
find  even  salt  water.  But  at  Elim,  "  where  were  twelve  wells  of  water 
and  three-score  and  ten  palm-trees,"  we  found  abundance  of  fresh  water 
and  a  lovely  spot  upon  which  to  pitch  our  tents  for  the  third  night. 
During  the  day  we  met  a  caravan  of  fifty  Eussian  pilgrims  returning 
to  Suez  from  Mount  Sinai.  All  but  three  were  women,  and  all  were 
mounted  upon  camels.  They  came  from  St.  Petersburg.  Halting, 
they  saluted  us  and  commended  us  for  our  "  holy  zeal  in  undertaking 
the  dangerous  and  difficult  pilgrimage  to  the  Mount  of  God."  They 
were  in  charge  of  a  number  of  Bedouins,  headed  by  Sheik  Mousa, 
the  king  of  all  the  Bedouins  in  the  Sinai  peninsula.  He  had  been 
engaged  as  our  escort  and  now  joined  us.  How  noble  and  patriarchal 
he  looked  seated  upon  his  fleet  dromedary  I  He  was  my  ideal  of  a 
Bedouin  chief.  For  forty -five  days  we  were  together,  and  I  found  him 
as  kind  and  true  as  he  had  been  represented  to  me.    He  came  to  our 


SII^AI  AND    THE   WILDERNESS.  27 

lunch-tent  at  noon  to  plan  for  the  journey,  and  after  the  usual  time- 
absorbing"  salute  had  been  made  a  presentation  ceremony  followed. 
A  rich  scarlet  robe  of  silk,  lined  with  green,  had  been  brought  from 
Cairo  as  a  gift  to  the  Arab  king,  and  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  make  the  pre- 
sentation speech.  At  the  close  I  was  requested  by  the  king  first  to  try 
on  the  roj^al  robe  that  he  might  for  himself  see  how  it  looked.  I  was  a 
little  taller  than  he,  and  if  the  robe  fitted  me  nicely,  it  would  do  for 
him.  I  assented,  whereupon  he  promised  me  a  brother's  protection 
through  the  tribes  of  his  kingdom,  and  agreed  to  intercede  with  the 
sheik  at  Akabah  for  our  safe  conduct  to  Petra. 

This  ceremony  ended,  a  still  more  picturesque  scene  followed — the 
discussion  of  the  journey  to  be  taken.  With  his  fingers  Mousa  drew 
upon  the  sand  a  map  of  the  pear-shaped  Sinai  peninsula.  A  depres- 
sion at  the  right  was  the  Red  Sea.  A  similar  one  on  the  left  served  for 
the  Gulf  of  Akabah.  An  English  walnut  served  to  mark  the  locality  of 
Mount  Sinai,  and  the  oases  were  indicated  by  chicken-bones.  An  egg- 
shell served  for  Akabah  and  an  orange-peel  stood  for  Petra,  while  bits 
of  stones  served  to  show  where  tribes  of  Bedouins  were  probably  en- 
camped. Winding  lines  were  drawn  in  the  sand  to  represent  the 
wadies  which  led  from  one  place  to  the  other,  the  sand  which  rose  at 
each  side  of  the  royal  finger  serving  to  mark  the  chains  of  mountains 
over  which  we  must  travel.  Then  the  whole  map,  thus  laid  out,  was 
discussed,  and  the  chances  of  escape  from  unfriendly  tribes  were  con- 
sidered. The  map  I  could  readily  understand,  and  the  eloquent  gest- 
ures of  my  two  companions — for  such  they  became — were  not  hard  to 
interpret.  It  was  finally  decided  to  follow  the  coast  where  practicable, 
and  at  other  times  to  keep  to  the  wadies  nearest  to  the  sea. 

After  the  consultation  closed  we  moved  on  through  Wady  Gharan- 
del  to  Elim.  Each  hour  the  country  about  us  grew  more  and  more  pic- 
turesque. The  red  light  of  the  setting  sun  shone  upon  some  rocky 
cliffs  in  the  distance  near  the  sea,  until,  the  sun  gone,  the  Arabian 
moon  changed  them  into  silvery  profiles.  At  about  8  p.m.  we  foimd 
our  tents  at  Elim,  with  those  of  another  American  party  pitched  near 
them.  The  hills  about  Elim  are  several  hundred  feet  high.  The  oasis 
seems  charming  to  one  after  having  travelled  over  the  dead  desert  for 
several  days.  Groves  of  palm,  acacia,  juniper,  tamarisk,  and  colocynth 
abound;  and  among  the  wells  is  one  living,  bubbling  spring,  from 
which  we  drank  and  took  a  fresh  supply  of  "  sweet  water." 


28 


Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS, 


Here  and  there  tiny  wild-flowers  were  found.  At  every  turn  in 
the  wady  the  hills  g-rew  more  shapely,  and  lovelier  in  color.  Elim 
is  a  lovely  spot,  the  clear  waters  and  shade-giving  palms  of  which 
delig'ht  the  desert  traveller.  On  the  way  to  the  sea,  south  and  east, 
two  rivals  to  "  the  true  Elim  "  were  found.  The  first  is  but  a  flat, 
damp  spot,  scarcely  worth  mentioning ;  the  second  is  a  somewhat  ex- 


The  Wells  of  Elim. 


tensive  oasis,  and  has  a  tiny  stream  running  through  it  out  into  the 
wady  and  thence  to  the  sea.  But  our  unanimous  vote  accorded  with 
tradition  in  believing  that  all  the  honors  of  Elim  belong  to  the  first 
oasis. 

Now  came  a  series  of  surprises.    As  we  broke  through  the  grove  of 
palms,  suddenly,  like  an  immense  wall,  a  great  mountain  range  arose, 


SIJ^AI  AND    THE   WILDERNESS.  29 

and  cast  a  grateful  shadow  over  our  pathway.  It  led  us  directly  to  the 
gorgeous  colored  side  of  Jebel  Taiyibeh,  whose  cones  and  cliffs  were 
built  up  of  strata  running-  diagonally  from  the  sea,  of  brown,  amber, 
orange,  red,  i3urple,  white,  gray,  marl  green,  and  black.  How  glorious 
was  the  sight  of  so  much  water  once  more  !  We  could  not  drink  it,  but 
it  was  cool  and  clean,  and  we  could  enjoy  a  bath  in  it.  It  united  its 
hoarse  bass  notes  with  the  plaintive  treble  of  the  tiny  stream  which 
near  by  gave  up  its  individuality  to  the  waves.  Here  the  mountains 
seemed  to  halt  and  draw  back.  Passing-  them,  we  turned  to  the  left 
and  followed  down  the  coast.  Beyond  a  long  line  of  naked  peaks  we 
caught  the  first  glimpse  of  Mount  Serbal.  Over  the  sea,  we  could  once 
more  make  out  the  Egyptian  hills,  just  as  the  murmuring  Israelites 
saw  them  when  moving  along  this  very  shore. 

That  night  we  also  "  encamped  by  the  Red  Sea,"  in  "  the  very 
place,"  we  were  assured,  "  where  the  children  of  Israel  encamped  after 
leaving  Elim."  An  extensive  plateau  is  here,  bounded  on  three  sides 
by  picturesque  hills  and  on  the  west  by  the  Red  Sea.  It  is  an  enchant- 
ing spot.  The  colored  hills  resemble  long  rows  of  towers  with  pointed 
roofs,  one  tier  reaching  above  another,  while  the  peaks  on  the  Egyp- 
tian side  seemed  then  like  faint  gray  clouds.  It  is  truly  a  desert  place 
compared  with  Elim.  It  proved  much  less  friendly  in  its  treatment  of 
the  stranger,  for  twice  during  the  night  it  sent  airy  emissaries  ashore 
to  pull  out  my  tent-pins  from  the  conniving  sand  and  to  tumble  my 
tent  down  upon  my  head. 

Next  morning  the  camera  caught  the  choicest  of  the  curious  rock- 
pictures.  Nature  had  been  in  a  freakish  mood — it  was  one  of  those 
efforts  of  hers  which  defy  pen,  palette,  and  photography.  Sometimes 
the  elevations  seemed  like  the  heaped-up  refuse  of  a  foundry ;  at  other 
times  as  if  the  entire  circuit  had  been  undermined  and  thrown  back  by 
the  searcher  for  gems  as  he  delved  into  the  mysteries  of  the  mountain. 
The  spaces  between  gave  the  shadows  a  chance  to  help  bring  out  the 
admirable  forms  into  bold  relief.  Sometimes  the  mountains  fairly 
stepped  into  the  sea,  or  had  tumbled  down  great  masses  from  their 
steep  inclines  to  make  it  rougher  for  the  pilgrim.  The  sea,  too,  pre- 
sented some  fine  studies  in  iridescence.  One  moment  the  glistening 
water  lies  as  calm  and  placid  as  a  lake  of  ice ;  suddenly  it  is  all  in  a 
quiver,  and  its  broad  expanse  becomes  broken  up  into  belts  of  the  most 
striking  colors. 


30  IJ^  SCBIPTURE  LANDS. 

Toward  midday  we  began  to  move  in  an  easterly  direction  and  our 
path  ascended.  Frequently  we  climbed  to  what  resembled  the  crater 
of  a  volcano.  Grouped  together  below  was  usually  found  a  varied  col- 
lection of  forms  like  spires,  pinnacles,  domes,  and  stalagmites  of  color 
reminding  one  of  the  scene  within  the  awful  throat  of  Mount  Vesuvius. 
Toward  night  the  old-time  Egyptian  copper  mines  of  Maghara,  in 
Wady  Keneh,  were  reached.  The  ruins  of  an  old  temple  near  by  bear 
the  cartouches  of  Rameses  II.  We  encamped  that  night  in  a  deep 
valley  the  surroundings  of  which  reminded  me  of  those  of  Crawford 
Notch,  only  the  mountains  were  bare  of  all  foliage,  and  there  was  no 
lake  nor  any  tumbling  cascade.  During  the  next  day  we  passed 
through  the  "Written  Yalley,"  where  Sinaitic  inscriptions  are  found 
plentifully  upon  the  rocks.  In  other  respects  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains are  less  interesting  than  those  already  passed  on  the  way. 

A  small  land-slide  came  tumbling  down  on  the  left.  It  was  started 
by  a  line  of  sheep  and  goats  which  stood,  with  an  amused  sort  of  look, 
watching  our  caravan.  Their  shepherdess  attempted  to  hide  from  our 
sight,  but  persuasive  backsheesh  induced  her  to  submit  to  the  ordeal 
of  the  camera.  She  refused  to  remove  her  face-veil,  but  permitted  a 
full  view  of  her  trinkets.  While  posing  her  I  made  the  following  in- 
ventory of  her  neck  and  head  gear.  On  the  top  of  her  head  four 
trousers-buttons  w^ere  united  by  cords  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross. 
Near  each  temple  was  an  iron  harness  ring,  one  and  one-quarter  inch 
in  diameter  and  one-eighth  inch  thick,  tied  to  the  lower  combination. 
From  these  rings  down  to  the  edges  of  the  face-veil  ran  two  pieces  of 
iron  and  brass  jack-chain.  From  the  rear  button,  over  the  part  in  the 
hair,  a  cord  ran  backward.  Bunches  of  beads  hung  from  the  cords  at 
her  temples,  and  a  lot  of  beads  with  a  silver  disk  as  large  as  a  Bland 
dollar  hung  from  each  ear.  Three  bracelets  of  turquoise  and  amber 
graced  each  arm,  and  from  one  of  them  dangled  a  brass  navy  button. 
There  were  rings  on  her  fingers  and  thumbs.  Nineteen  dazzling  neck, 
laces  hung  around  her  neck — some  of  turquoise,  some  of  amber,  while 
some  were  of  silver,  and  one  was  made  up  of  the  iron  ferrules  from  the 
sticks  of  tourists'  umbrellas. 

Mount  Serbal  was  often  seen  during  this  afternoon.  Before  night 
we  came  to  "  the  rock  struck  by  Moses,"  as  recorded  in  Exodus  xvii.  6, 
and  referred  to  so  graphically  in  Numbers  xx.  7-11.  The  rock  is 
isolated.    It  is  20  feet  wide  by  12  feet  high.    A  deep  cut  runs  down 


SINAI  AND    THE  WILDERNESS.  31 

its  side — "the  mark  of  Moses'  rod" — whence  flowed  the  waters  of 
Meribah  and  Massah.  The  mountains  on  all  sides  appeared  more  and 
more  impressive  as  we  climbed  the  steep  pass  which  led  us  to  the 
oasis  of  Pharan,  or  Wady  Feiran.  Above  all  others  we  saw  the  jag-g-ed 
peaks  of  the  giant  Jebel  Serbal — different  in  form  and  in  color  from  its 
neighbors. 

Here  we  came  to  a  steep,  narrow  defile,  and  our  carefully  stepping 
camels  were  made  more  careful  by  the  quick,  sharp  cries  of  their 
drivers — "  Ooah !  edock  !  hutta !  "  ("  Look  out  I  step  carefully  !  ")  which 
admonition  seemed  to  be  repeated  to  us  by  the  echoing  peaks  as 
though  warning  us  not  to  approach.  But  the  odor  of  apricot,  orange, 
peach,  and  cherry  persuaded  us  upward  and  onward.  Soon  we  arrived 
at  the  oasis  and  heard  the  song  of  a  tiny  brook,  and  soon  saw  small 
gardens  and  rude  stone  houses.  A  lad  met  us  and  gave  us  some 
cherries  which  tasted  like  apples.  The  lovely  bulbuls  were  flitting 
among  the  trees,  and  regaled  us  with  their  sweet,  wild  notes,  and  for 
the  first  time  we  heard  the  plaintive  bleat  of  a  baby  camel.  Our 
baggage  camels  had  arrived  before  us  and  our  tents  had  been  pitched 
near  the  stream.  My  own  tent-door  opened  upon  the  wide,  steep 
Wady  Aleyat,  which  is  lined  by  lofty  peaks  of  gneiss,  the  varied  colors 
and  eccentric  shapes  of  which  reminded  me  of  the  fantastic  trickery  of 
the  kaleidoscope.  We  were  among  the  relics  of  the  ancient  city  of 
Pharan,  or  Paran,  and  could  see  monastic  ruins  on  nearly  every  moun- 
tain incline.  Carefully  irrigated  palm-groves,  rice-fields,  and  fruit-or- 
chards aboimded,  and  all  were  in  their  spring-time  glory.  We  saw  a 
Bedouin  gathering  manna.  We  could  see  the  very  crags  upon  which 
the  sentinels  stood,  whence,  in  olden  times,  when  danger  approached, 
they  gave  the  alarm  to  their  fellow-townsmen  below.  It  was  here  that 
Mr.  George  Ebers  placed  the  scene  of  his  charming  romance  "  Homo 
Sum." 

In  front  of  my  tent,  at  the  right,  I  could  see  the  battle-field  where 
Israel  contested  with  Amalek  for  possession  of  the  very  stream  which 
was  singing  to  me  at  that  moment.  In  the  distance  the  ^\q  points  of 
majestic  Serbal  rose  far  above  the  intervening  mountains.  I  was 
"pitched  in  Rephidim,"  and  remained  four  days.  The  points  of  in- 
terest there  are  almost  as  numerous  as  they  are  at  Mount  Sinai. 

The  ruined  houses  of  ancient  Pharan  are  all  built  closely  together, 
and  are  of  unquarried  stone,  except  the  doorways.     Here  dwelt  the 


32  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

persecuted  Christians  and  those  who  came  here  to  shun  the  tempta- 
tions of  the  world  by  hiding"  from  them. 

Near  by,  in  the  face  of  a  neighboring  jebel,  or  mountain,  are  the 
caves  of  the  anchorites.     In  each  of  these  numerous  narrow  excava- 


I 


Wady  Feiran,  Site  of  the  Battle  between  Israel  and  Amalek. 


tions,  sheltered  only  by  the  low  stone  roof,  once  dwelt,  year  after  year, 
a  man  whose  only  bed  was  of  dried  herbs,  and  whose  only  garment  was 
a  sheepskin.  Men  who  had  grown  tired  of  the  world  came  here  to 
carry  out  their  own   independence  and  particular  mode  of  penance 


SINAI  AND   THE  WILDERNESS.  33 

without  subjection  to  any  other  authority  than  their  own  conscience. 
Almost  every  rock  has  been  an  altar  or  has  echoed  the  amens  of  an 
anchorite.  From  the  fertile  plateau  an  isolated  hillock  rises  which, 
seen  from  a  height,  looks  like  an  island  in  the  oasis.  On  its  top  are 
the  ruins  of  a  church  and  of  the  "  Oratorium."  Lining  the  pathway 
leading  to  the  church  are  several  ruined  chapels.  This  island,  so  to 
speak,  is  Jebel  el  Meharret — the  "  Mountain  of  Moses." 

Here  Moses  was  stationed  during  the  battle  of  Eephidim,  and 
prayed  for  the  success  of  Joshua  against  Amalek,  while  Aaron  and  Hur 
held  up  his  hands.  On  all  sides  are  remains  of  the  walls  constructed 
by  the  citizens  of  Pharan  to  fortify  themselves  against  the  attacks  of 
the  marauding  Saracens.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  affords  a  mag- 
nificent view  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  wadies  which  encircle 
it  are  as  level  as  a  race-course.  Joshua  and  Amalek  could  have  pursued 
one  another  endlessly  there  but  for  the  uplifted  hands  of  Moses.  The 
whole  battle  could  be  witnessed  by  the  great  commander,  no  matter 
at  which  side  of  the  mountain  the  skirmishes  took  place.  The  largest 
space,  and  therefore  the  most  probable  place,  is  on  the  side  toward 
Mount  Serbal.  Close  by,  still  full  of  life  and  health  and  good  cheer, 
is  "  the  innocent  cause  of  the  war,"  the  lovely  brook  which  waters 
the  palm-groves  and  gardens  of  Wady  Feiran. 

The  climb  to  the  highest  peak  of  Mount  Serbal  is  avoided  by  many 
tourists  because  they  do  not  believe  it  is  the  true  Sinai,  or  because  it 
is  too  laborious.  We  started  up  the  wady  on  camels,  at  5.40  a.m.  The 
nearly  full  moon  was  still  shining,  and  bathed  with  a  tender  radiance 
the  rugged  cliffs.  Two  hours  of  slow  winding  and  climbing  over  the 
porphyry-strewn  path  brought  us  to  a  deep  ravine  between  two  of  the 
five  peaks  of  the  noble  mountain.  There  we  dismounted  and  continued 
the  ascent  on  foot. 

The  ascent  grew  more  and  more  difficult — sometimes  almost  per- 
pendicular. After  much  hard  work  a  crag  was  mastered  that  looked 
from  below  as  though  it  reached  the  clouds ;  but  beyond  it  was  dis- 
closed another  height  more  difficult  to  gain  and  more  dangerous  than 
the  first.  Finally  a  narrowing  of  the  gorge  was  reached,  and  we  turned 
about  to  obtain  a  backward  view.  We  could  then  overlook  many  of  the 
points  referred  to,  and  see  the  whole  line  of  the  Wady  Aleyat,  up 
which  we  came  on  our  camels.  Beyond  are  hundreds  of  peaks,  over 
whose  granite  shapes  narrow  lines  of  red  porphyry  creep  like  enor- 


34:  IN  SCRIPTUBE  LANDS, 

mous  serpents.  At  the  left  was  a  bare  perpendicular  cliff,  fully  three 
thousand  feet  high,  with  not  an  inch  friendly  enough  to  offer  a  foot- 
hold. The  sight  was  appalling.  "We  now  turned  to  our  work  again 
and  clambered  on,  sometimes  on  all  fours,  resting  wherever  a  hospita- 
ble rock  offered  us  shade.  Frequently  we  found  small  quantities  of  ice 
and  snow,  and  made  some  iced  tea. 

At  last  the  summit  of  the  highest  peak  was  gained.  So  clear  was 
the  atmosphere  that  we  could  overlook  almost  the  whole  of  the  Sinai 
peninsula.  On  the  one  side  was  the  sea  where  Pharaoh's  host  wrestled 
with  the  returning  waves.  On  the  other,  Solomon  had  sailed  his  fleets. 
On  the  south  side  the  "  Mountain  of  the  Law  "  stood  forth,  and  I  know 
not  how  far  one  could  see  through  the  clear  atmosphere  beyond.  There 
seemed  to  be  hundreds  of  mountains  in  view  sleeping  at  our  feet. 
Among  them  crept  the  light  serpentine  wadies  innumerable,  including 
those  we  had  travelled  during  our  journey  from  Suez  and  the  ones  we 
must  follow  to  reach  Mount  Sinai  and  Akabah.  It  was  down  toward 
the  south  where  Moses  lost  his  way. 

To  me  the  most  expansive  view  seemed  to  be  toward  the  west, 
where  the  line  of  the  Eed  Sea  glistened  like  a  silver  cord  bordered  by 
the  mountains  beyond,  and  fringed  more  roughly  by  a  line  on  this  side. 
We  saw  the  two  caravan  routes  which  led  through  deep  and  stony 
gorges  to  the  sea,  and  through  which  pilgrims  for  thousands  of  years 
had  come  to  worship  God ;  they  were  sometimes  followed  by  natives  of 
the  peninsula  who  came  to  sacrifice  to  their  gods — the  sun,  moon,  and 
stars — upon  the  very  peak  where  my  camera  was  placed.  Upon  the 
same  height  great  beacon-fires  were  often  kindled  to  guide  and  warn 
the  mariners  of  both  seas.  It  is  still  called  "  El  Madhawwa  "  (light- 
house) by  the  Arabs.  Sinaitic  inscriptions  are  plentiful  upon  the 
rocks. 

Grand  as  the  views  are,  they  did  not  impress  me  as  much  as  those 
obtained  at  the  base  of  the  perpendicular  cliff  during  the  ascent.  Sev- 
eral hours  were  occupied  with  resting,  work,  and  observation,  and  then, 
reluctantly,  the  perilous  descent  was  undertaken.  Sometimes  a  rock 
was  started  that  would  crash  and  split  into  a  thousand  pieces  as  it 
rolled.  Hedaiyah  called  it  "  a  good  Boman  road,"  but  our  attendants 
were  nearer  right  when  they  named  it  "  the  road  of  the  sweater."  Just 
as  we  reached  our  waiting  camels  at  the  base,  the  sun  was  again  play- 
ing upon  the  five  points  of  Serbal.    Then  the  light  went  out ;  the  wady 


The  Ascent  of  Mount  Serbal, 


SINAI  AND   THE  WILDERNESS.  37 

grew  cool.  With  delight  we  hailed  the  coming  of  the  moon,  for  then 
our  sure-footed  camels  stepped  with  more  confidence  and  we  felt  safer. 

Next  day,  at  7.30  a.m.,  we  broke  camp  at  Wady  Feiran.  The  gardens 
and  groves  of  the  oasis  continued  for  over  a  mile.  A  fellah  was  seen 
irrigating  the  land  with  an  Egyptian  shadoof.  Flocks  of  sheep  and 
goats  were  numerous.  Frequently  the  Sinai  group  could  be  seen  for  a 
moment,  though  far  to  the  south.  The  day  was  so  hot  that  we  did  not 
venture  to  pitch  our  lunch  tent  at  noon.  "We  ate  and  rested  beneath 
the  shadow  of  a  great  rock,  much  to  the  amazement  of  a  Bedouin  shep- 
herdess who  watched  us  on  the  sly. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  two  perpendicular  cliffs  about 
sixty  feet  high  and  only  a  few  feet  apart.  They  form  the  "  Gate  of 
Sinai."  About  6  p.m.  we  arrived  at  a  point  in  Wady  Hawa  where  we 
expected  to  find  our  tents  ready  for  the  night,  but  no  tents  were  to  be 
seen.  Abdullah  had  misunderstood  his  master,  and  had  camped  in  a 
more  distant  wady  with  a  similar  name.  We  were  not  lost,  but  our 
tents  were,  and  it  took  three  hours  of  tired  riding  to  discover  our  camp. 

We  reached  Nagb  Hawa  the  next  afternoon.  (A  nagb  is  a  rough 
mountain  pass,  filled  with  rocky  debris  driven  down  by  the  torrents 
from  the  steep  inclines  on  either  side.)  No  one  who  has  climbed  it 
will  ever  complain  that  "  Jordan  is  a  hard  road  to  travel."  Moreover, 
he  will  acknowledge  that  one  of  the  greatest  blessings  accorded  the 
murmuring  children  of  Israel  was  that  "their  shoes  waxed  not  old 
upon  their  feet."  Frequently,  while  ascending  this  nagb,  it  was  more 
comfortable  for  us  to  dismount  and  walk.  It  was  more  merciful  to  the 
camels  too.  The  ascent  of  Mount  Serbal  was  scarcely  more  difficult. 
At  times  the  way  seemed  almost  past  finding  out,  and  a  "  dead-lock  " 
occurred.  Trees  had  grown  up  among  the  rocks  so  as  to  form  an  im- 
pregnable wall  in  places.     To  flank  these  was  the  only  way  to  advance. 

At  one  point  we  found  a  tiny  spring  among  the  juniper  bushes. 
There  we  quenched  our  thirst,  limched,  and  photogi-aphed  the  welcome 
little  "  fountain."  Then  the  camels  came,  and  drank  the  spring  dry. 
Some  of  the  camel  drivers  were  indignant  that  we  did  not  allow  the 
camels  to  have  all  the  water.  Long  before  emerging  from  the  nagb, 
while  climbing  its  last  ascent,  the  isolated  group  of  mountains  called 
the  "  true  Sinai  "  loomed  up  in  the  distance. 

It  does  not  seem  high,  because  it  was  yet  half  hidden  from  our  view 
by  the  intervening  hill.     As  soon  as  this  hill  was  mastered  the  plain 


SIIfAI  AND  THE  WILDERNESS.  39 

of  Er  Eaha,  or  "  Plain  of  Assemblag-e,"  came  into  full  view,  with  the 
Sinai  range  at  its  southern  extreme.  The  combination  was  satisfying" 
— convincing.  Here  was  the  one  great  feature  the  want  of  which  pre- 
vented Mount  Serbal  from  contesting  for  the  honors  of  Sinai.  There  is 
no  plain  in  the  vicinity  of  Serbal  extensive  enough  to  accommodate  an 
assemblage  as  large  as  Moses  led.  But  here  is  a  vast  plateau  of  suffi- 
cient extent,  and,  as  we  shall  presently  see  when  we  view  it  from  Mount 
Sinai  summit,  so  located  that  Moses  could  overlook  it  all  when  he  read 
the  Law.  This  must  be  the  "  true  Sinai  " — the  very  mountain  upon 
which  the  glory  of  the  Lord  rested  in  the  sight  of  the  people.  When 
facing  its  awful,  stately  grandeur,  I  felt  as  if  I  had  come  to  the  end  of 
the  world.  How  many  pilgrims  had  come  from  all  parts  of  the  earth 
to  this  very  spot  to  reverence,  to  sacrifice,  and  to  worship  ! 

I  dismounted  to  contemplate  the  sublime  panorama,  and  Elihuel, 
my  camel  driver,  sat  down  beside  me.  He  hardly  seemed  to  under- 
stand my  actions,  and  at  last  interrupted  my  reverie  by  exclaiming,  as 
he  pointed  to  the  lofty  group,  "  Jebel  Mousa — Tayeeb  !  "  ("  Mountain 
of  Moses — good  !  ")     He  also  reverenced  it,  for  he  was  a  Mohammedan. 

A\Tiat  impresses  the  American  traveller  most  sensibly  here  is  the  fact 
that  although  mountains  abound,  and  stream-beds  are  more  plenty  than 
in  our  own  White  Hills,  a  cascade  or  a  waterfall  is  never  heard.  When 
the  rains  fall,  the  water  rolls  down  these  bare,  rough  diagonals  uninter- 
rupted, and  empties  into  the  wadies,  which  in  turn  impetuously  roll 
the  torrents  into  the  sea  with  great  speed,  before  the  parched  earth  has 
time  to  absorb  more  than  a  mere  surface  supply. 

What  a  surprise,  then,  when,  arrived  at  the  highest  ridge  of  the  vast 
plateau  of  Er  Eaha,  to  see  a  bright  oasis  full  of  trees  laden  with  the 
rich  blossoms  of  spring,  backed  by  the  strange,  contrasting,  gloomy 
walls  of  the  Convent  of  Saint  Catherine.  No  location  could  be  more 
charming — in  the  narrowing  valley,  nestled  at  the  feet  of  the  closely 
protecting  mountains.  Upon  the  highest  ramparts  are  set  both  tlie 
cannon  and  the  cross.  It  was  both  castle  and  convent  we  were  ap- 
proaching. More  than  once  the  inmates  have  been  obliged  to  defend 
themselves  against  the  marauder.  At  one  time  every  monk  was  massa- 
cred. Since  then  more  care  has  been  exercised.  We  were  obliged  to 
prove  our  friendship  before  we  could  gain  admittance.  We  could  not 
even  encamp  in  the  neighborhood  until  our  credentials  were  examined 
and  approved. 


40 


m  SCRIPTUBE  LANDS. 


Arriving  at  the  convent  wall  we 
sent  up  a  shout  to  the  top.  In  the 
course  of  time  the  voice  of  a  monk  sent 
down  a  squeaky  response.  To  a  point 
near  the  top  of  the  wall  a  tiny  struct- 
ure shaped  like  a  dog-kennel  is  at- 
tached. From  this  a  small  rope  was 
let  down,  to  which  we  attached  our 
firman,  or  letter  of  introduction,  ob- 
tained at  the  branch  institution  at 
Suez.  This  was  hauled  up  slowly  and 
soon  answered  by  a  great  noise  in  the 
aerial  kennel.  Then  a  thick  cable  was 
lowered  to  us  and  we  were  asked  to 
"Get  in  and  come  up."  But  the  low 
gate  in  the  wall  was  swung  open  at 
that  moment,  and  we  chose  to  enter 
the  convent  by  it  rather  than  to  go  up 
by  cable. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  quarters 
of  the  sux)erior  we  saw  that  the  cable 
was  not  let  down  hand  over  hand,  but 
that  a  clumsy  windlass,  worked  and 
turned  by  Bedouin  serfs,  was  the  power 
behind  the  throne.  The  combination 
is  believed  to  be  the  first  passenger 
elevator  in  the  world. 

From  the  veranda  near  the  "lift" 
a  fine  view  of  the  convent  buildings 
inside  the  walls  was  had.  On  the  right 
is  the  chapel,  with  its  lead  roof,  built 
more  than  1300  years  ago.  Near  it  is 
a  modem  campanile,  reminding  one  of  Venice.  Several  bells  hang  in 
it,  but  their  ringing  initates  the  Bedouins,  so  beams  of  hard,  sonor- 
ous wood  are  swung  from  ropes  and  pounded  upon  by  mallets  to  call 
the  devout  monks  to  i)rayer. 

At  the  left  of  the  campanile  is  a  Mohammedan  mosque,  suffered 
iiere  to  pacify  the  Bedouins,  but  not  used.     Under  the  curious  roofs 


The  Way  into  the  Convent  in  Tinne  of 
Trouble. 


The  Convent  Buildings  and  the   Plain  of  Assennblage,  fronn  the  Veranda. 


42 


Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


of  other  buildings  are  the  living'-rooins  of  the  monks.  From  the  sev- 
eral Terandas  open  the  dormitories.  A  waggish  sort  of  uncertainty 
prevails  in  the  architecture. 

The  plain  of  Er  Eaha  lies  on  the  north  in  full  view  from  the  su- 
perior's piazza.     On  the  left,  or  west,  is  the  "Mount  of  God  and  of 


Working  the   Elevator, 

Moses."  It  seems  as  though  no  semblance  of  humanity  should  remain 
in  a  place  made  sacred  by  so  many  holy  associations,  but  the  convent 
is  inhabited  by  about  sixty  monks,  varying  in  grades  of  sanctity. 
Nine  of  them  yielded  to  the  camera.  A  beardless  youth  afforded  us 
considerable  amusement.  Eepeatedly  he  came  to  me,  with  tears  in 
his  eyes,  and  begged  for  some  recipe  to  make  his  beard  grow.  He 
said  that  he  would  not  be  allowed  to  read  chapel  service  until  he  had 
a  beard ;  that  nearly  all  the  monks  but  him  had  beards,  but  God  with- 
held the  boon  from  him.  It  looked  to  me  like  a  case  of  soap  and 
water;  but  I  desired  to  be  charitable,  and  suggested  a  remedy,  for 
which  he  gave  me  his  benediction. 

Few  places  are  more  interesting  than  the  interior  of  the  chapel  of 
the  convent.  Ever  since  the  time  of  Justinian  royal  pilgrimages  have 
been  made  to  it,  and  many  a  costly  offering  has  been  left  behind. 
Hanging  here  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  collections  of  lamps  in  the 
world,  of  gold  and  silver,  richly  jewelled.  Screens  of  "crazy-quilt," 
wrought  by  queenly  hands,  adorn  the  altar,  while  candelabra  of  richest 
bronze  stand  on  either  side ;  the  stalls  are  curiously  carved ;  the  mosaic 
floor  is  of  Roman  richness ;  an  old  pendulum  clock  is  here,  which  has 


SINAI  AND  THE   WILDERNESS. 


43 


clicked  since  the  time  of  Galileo ; 
paintings  and  architectural  dec- 
orations all  attest  to  the  wealth 
of  those  who  have  worshipped 
here.  In  the  rear  of  the  chapel 
is  "the  scene  of  the  burning 
bush,"  backed  by  a  rock,  through 
a  rift  in  which  the  sun  enters  a 
single  cheerful  gleam  but  once  a 
year.  In  the  next  room,  in  an 
alabaster  sarcophagus,  lie  the  re- 
mains of  St.  Catherine. 

The  chapel  services  are  fre- 


44 


JM  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


quent  and  exacting",  often  requiring  the  monks  to  be  present  in  the 
small  hours  of  the  nig-ht.  Nasal  intonations,  uneasy  undulations,  and 
incense-swinging"  make  up  the  cheerless  performance. 

Many  valuable  books  and  manuscript  copies  of  the  Scriptures  are 
in  the  convent  library.  The  superior  has  been  very  chary  of  these 
since  Tischendorf  got  away  the  manuscript  of  the  Codex  Sinaiticus.  I 
found  a  copy  of  the  famous  "  Book  of  the  Gospels,"  dating  from  the 


"  The  Book  of  the  Gospels,"  kept  in  the  Convent. 


time  of  Theodosius  II.,  a.d.  766.  The  whole  work  was  written  in  Greek 
letters  with  gold  on  parchment.  The  cover  was  of  metal.  Colored 
portraits  of  the  apostles  embellished  it,  with  backgrounds  of  burnished 
gold.  I  asked  the  privilege  of  photographing  some  of  the  pages,  but 
the  superior  said,  "  I  cannot  allow  it  to  go  out  of  my  hands." 

"  Very  well,  then,"  I  said,  "  bring  it  out  into  the  light  of  the  court 
and  hold  it  in  your  hands  while  I  photograph  it." 

He  generously  assented  to  this,  and  I  thus  secured  two  pages  of  the 
precious  Codex  Aureus. 

The  next  thing  to  do  was  to  ascend  Mount  Sinai.    There  are  three 


SIJ^f^AI  AND   THE   WILDERNESS, 


45 


or  four  routes,  all  of  which  are  full  of  inter- 
est. We  were  led  by  one  of  the  monks. 
The  fraternity  had  constructed  a  rude  stone 
stairway  part  of  the  distance,  which  out  of 
respect  for  them  we  followed.  The  morn- 
ing was  glorious.  We  started  early,  that 
we  might  have  the  help  of  the  clear,  cool, 
sweet  air  in  climbing  the  heights  before  the 
merciless  Asiatic  sun  had  so  shortened  the 
shadows  as  to  deprive  us  of  any  protection 
by  them. 

After  twenty  minutes  the  old  "Shrive 
Gate"  was  reached.  Here  in  former  days 
the  pilgrims  partook  of  the  sacrament,  re- 
ceived absolution,  and  a  certificate  of  church 
standing  which  enabled  them  to  pass  the 
second  gate  unchallenged.  This  shrive  ser- 
vice was  rendered  for  many  years  by  an  old 
monk  whose  devotion  won  for  him  the  name 
of  "Saint  Stephen."  His  skeleton  is  pre- 
served prominent  among  the  bones  of  his 
brethren  in  the  crypt  near  the  garden  gate. 

The  crags  and  peaks  which  now  came 
into  view  ahead  and  on  every  side  were  all 
the  more  impressive  because  the  sun  had  not 
yet  penetrated  the  shadows.    In  one  shady  place 
we  found  a  small  spring  called  "  Jethro's  Well," 
but  not  believed  to  be  the  "  true  "  well.     The 
monks  have  arranged  so  many  "holy"  places 
convenient  to  their  convent  that  one  may  have  the 
privilege  of  making  a  selection. 

At  this  point  I  turned  and  looked  down  the 
gorge  we  had  been  climbing,  when  a  most  startling 
view  rewarded  me.  On  each  side  were  the  dark 
walls  of  the  ravine.  In  full  view  below  was  the  monastery,  and  the 
mountains  east  covered  with  the  glory  of  the  morning  sun.  The  col- 
oring was  superb.  I  could  not  reproduce  it  by  my  art,  but  I  caught 
the  light  and  shade. 


Tne   Snrive   Gate. 


46  US'  SGMIPTUBE  LANDS. 

In  a  quarter  of  an  hour  the  "  Chapel  of  the  Yirgin  "  was  reached. 
It  is  a  small,  homely  structure  of  granite,  and  was  erected  by  the 
grateful  monks  in  honor  of  the  occasion  when  the  Yirgin  relieved  the 
convent  perpetually  from  a  plague  of  fleas.  Another  American  party, 
during  my  stay  in  the  neighborhood,  preferred,  "  for  the  sake  of  nov- 
elty," to  live  in  the  convent  rather  than  in  tents.  When  they  made 
their  departure  they  assured  me  that  they  had  had  plenty  of  novelty, 
including  a  startling  abundance  that  seemed  to  prove  that  the  good 
work  of  the  Yirgin  was  intended  for  a  former  time. 

The  second  gateway  was  reached  just  as  the  god  of  day  flamed  his 
ruddy  glow  up  the  ravine  at  our  left.  It  scarcely  changed  the  gray 
old  stones  of  the  massive  gateway,  but  through  its  arch  we  saw  a 
wondrous  display  of  shape  and  color.  At  this  gate  the  ancient  i3ilgrim 
IDresented  the  credentials  received  from  Saint  Stephen.  Then,  with 
sins  absolved  and  heart  full  of  new  resolves  for  the  future,  he  was 
allowed  to  pass  and  to  finish  his  journey  to  the  summit  of  the  "holy 
Mount  of  Moses." 

Two  little  chapels  erected  in  memory  of  the  prophets  Elisha  and 
Elijah  are  next  reached.  In  one  the  grotto  where  Elijah  hid  after  he 
had  slain  the  priests  of  Baal  is  shown.  A  number  of  rare  old  books  are 
there  with  some  valuable  lamps  and  curious  loaintings  of  the  Madonna. 
The  paintings  of  the  prophets  on  ]panels  of  wood  stood  out  by  the 
door-way,  on  end,  like  placards  at  a  bazar.  A  gilt  nimbus  adorns  the 
head  of  the  prophet  Elijah,  but  his  portrait  cannot  be  considered  a 
worthy  work  of  art  even  though  painted  by  an  old  master.  A  little 
cypress-tree  stands  at  the  door,  said  to  have  been  planted  there  by 
Elijah.  It  is  almost  a  miracle  that  it  keeps  alive  there  at  all.  Near  at 
hand  is  a  depression  in  a  rock,  in  shape  resembling  a  camel's  track. 
"  It  is  the  foot-mark  of  the  camel  of  Mohammed,  made  when  ascending 
to  heaven  with  his  master  on  his  back."  As  to  the  other  three  "  foot- 
marks "  of  that  wide-stepping  quadruped,  "  one  is  in  Cairo,  one  in  Da- 
mascus, and  one  in  Mecca."    So  the  Bedouin  say. 

Climbing  on  amidst  the  natural  glories  which  surrounded  us,  we 
came  to  the  "  true  well  of  Jethro."  A  tiny  oasis  surrounded  it,  where 
some  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  were  grazing.  These  made  a  realistic 
picture,  and  called  to  mind  the  Bible  story  of  the  gallant  young  fugitive 
from  Pharaonic  justice  who  came  here  and  drove  away  the  Arab  shep- 
herds that  annoyed  the  daughters  of  Jethro  while  they  were  watering 


SIJSTAI  AND   THE   WILDERNESS, 


47 


their  flocks.  And  here  it  must  have  been  that  Moses  wooed  Zipporah 
and  won  her  Arab  heart.  Surely  it  was  a  charming"  trysting-place  for 
patriarchal  lovers,  and  even  now  is  the  beauty-spot  of  the  climb,  kept 
fresh  and  lovely  as  it  is  by  the  perennial  snows  o£  the  sacred  mountain. 

Only  the  rugged  beauties  of  nature  allured  during  the  next  half- 
hour.     The  hardest  climbing  of 
all  followed,  for  the  blazing  sun 
was  full  upon  us  at  the  left. 

At  last  the  summit  of  Jebel 
Mousa,  the  "  Mount  of  God  and 
of  Moses,"  was  reached,  and  we 
could  look  beyond. 

In  the  Sinaitic  group  there 
are  three  points  which  are  claimed 
to  be  the  true  spot  where  Moses 
met  Jehovah  and  received  the 
tablets  of  the  Law.  These  are 
the  summits  of  "Jebel  Mousa," 
"Jebel  Katherina,"  and  "Jebel 
Sufsafeh."  On  the  summit  of 
Jebel  Mousa  is  a  rude  chapel  and 
a  ruder  mosque,  both  of  stone. 
Neither  would  afford  much  x>ro- 
tection  to  a  traveller  during  a 
mountain  storm.  Any  one  of  the 
three  caves  under  the  rocks  shown  as  "  the  true  cave  where  Moses  hid 
when  Jehovah  passed  by  "  would  be  safer.  One  of  these  caves  is  tri- 
angular in  shape,  and  is  located  near  the  chapel. 

The  summit  of  Jebel  Mousa  is  7,359  feet  above  sea  level,  and  2,360 
feet  higher  than  the  convent.  It  requires  3,000  steps  to  reach  it. 
Jebel  Katherina  is  8,526  feet  high,  and  more  alpine  in  its  character 
than  its  rivals.  From  all  of  them  the  views  are  glorious.  But  the 
view  from  Jebel  Mousa  is  disappointing,  for  the  same  reason  that 
Jebel  Serbal's  outlook  is — there  is  no  plain  in  sight  where  Israel  could 
have  had  room  to  assemble.  The  view  from  Jebel  Katherina  is  alike 
unsatisfactory.  Let  us  make  an  observation  from  the  summit  of  Jebel 
Sufsafeh.  To  obtain  it  we  retraced  our  steps  as  far  as  Jethro's  AVell 
and  then  entered  a  wady  to  the  left.     Two  small  ravines  were  crossed 


The  Ascent  of  Mount  Sinai,     Second  Gateway. 


The  Convent,  from  Mount  Sinai 


SINAI  AND  THE  WILDERNESS.  49 

Avlien  a  third  and  deeper  one  was  found,  wherein  a  rude  chapel  stands, 
l^artly  shaded  by  a  small  willow-tree.  From  this  tree  the  peak  we  are 
about  to  ascend  takes  its  name — Eas  es  Sufsafeh  (the  "  Mount  of  the 
Willow").  Climbing-  the  steep  and  rocky  gorge  ascending  from  the 
tree,  we  gained  the  summit  of  Sufsafeh.  From  that  stand-point  one 
mighty  prospect  of  barren  peaks  is  presented,  bounded  only  by  the 
desert  and  the  seas;  and  there,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  lies  a 
vast  plateau — the  plain  of  Er  Raha.  It  must  be  the  "  Plain  of  As- 
semblage," and  it  must  be  that  this  is  the  "  Mount  of  God  and  of 
Moses." 

I  could  hear  the  voices  of  the  natives  living  in  the  tiny  oasis  at  the 
base,  more  than  a  mile  away. 

The  beauty  of  the  scene  is  very  great.  No  accessories  of  snow  or 
river  or  foliage  are  there,  and  none  are  needed — nor  distance — to  "  lend 
enchantment  to  the  view."  Would  that  I  could  picture  what  I  saw ! 
The  rugged  "  Rock  of  Moses  "  lay  at  my  feet,  as  black  as  the  shadow  at 
its  side.  Across  the  plain,  on  each  side,  the  crag-crowned  mountains 
Avere  glowing  with  streams  of  ruby  color.  Nature  seemed  preparing 
for  some  great  spectacle.  The  horizon  was  submerged  in  a  molten  sea 
of  flame,  while  the  sea,  now  blue,  now  green,  now  golden,  now  as  red 
as  blood,  was  all  in  a  tremor.  Now  gray  veils  of  misty  fabric  began  to 
rise  from  the  shadowed  plain,  moving  to  and  fro  like  spectres.  Then 
the  solid  amethyst  of  the  western  sky  was  rent,  and  stripes  of  tur- 
quoise were  discovered  between.  There  was  not  a  sound.  Quickly, 
as  though  by  the  deft  turning  of  some  mighty  wheel,  the  glorious 
coloring  disappeared.  Not  even  the  sea  could  be  discerned.  The 
lights  went  out.  The  metamorphosis  was  hastened,  the  after-glow  was 
shortened,  by  the  prompt  appearance  of  the  pale  Arabian  moon.  Its 
soft  light  seemed  to  have  no  influence  over  the  deeper  hollows  and 
shadows,  for  the  blackness  of  night,  now  spread  over  them,  was  too 
closely  set  for  such  gentle  persuasion. 

But  the  glorious  peaks  about  us  were  clothed  in  a  new  attire. 
Catching  the  mellow  light  as  it  arose,  half  their  height  was  submerged 
by  the  fog.  Like  a  sea  of  silver  it  caught  the  light,  and  reminded  me 
of  a  tented  field,  or  of  tossing  mounds  of  snow  as  I  have  seen  them 
from  Mount  Washington  in  winter.  Who  wonders  at  the  wild  fancies 
of  a  people  whose  home  is  amid  such  scenes  ? 

How  reluctantly  I  gave  up  my  seat  on  the  "  Rock  of  Moses !  '* 
4 


60 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


I 


Plain  of  Assemblage,  from  the  Rock  of  Moses. 


Again  and  again  I  turned  to  look  upon  the  glories  surrounding,  and 
then  descended  to  my  tent. 

An  after- visit  was  made  to  the  willow-tree ;  and  then,  instead  of  de- 
scending by  the  monks'  stone  stairway,  we  followed  the  gorge  down 
the  side  of  Jebel  Sufsafeh  opposite  to  the  one  from  which  we  saw 
the  "  Plain  of  Assemblage."    It  led  to  Aaron's  Hill. 

Then  I  secured  an  isolated  view  of  the  summit  of  Jebel  Sufsafeh 
from  its  eastern  side.  This  proved  a  prize.  On  the  right  of  the  fore- 
ground a  great  mass  of  rocky  debris  was  caught,  wliich  had  thundered 
down  from  the  steep  inclines,  no  one  could  tell  me  when.  The  monks 
say,  "  when  the  golden  calf  was  broken."  To  the  left,  beneath  a  pile  of 
huge  rocks,  is  the  largest  spring  in  the  Sinai  district.    It  is  also  called 


SIIfAI  AND   THE   WILDERNESS. 


51 


"  Jethro's  Well."  I  found  its  brink  fringed  with  a  growth  of  maiden- 
hair fern  as  green  and  lovely  as  any  I  had  ever  gathered  in  the  Colos- 
seum or  in  the  White  Mountains. 

In  the  distance  is  Jebel  Sufsafeh.  Between  the  two  peaks  is  "  the 
very  ravine  down  which  Moses  and  Joshua  were  picking  their  way 
when  they  heard  the  shouts  of  the  worshippers  of  the  golden  caK  come 
up  from  the  base  of  the  mountain."  Joshua,  soldier  that  he  was,  de- 
clared they  were  as  the  sounds  of  war.  Moses,  with  a  clearer  knowl- 
edge of  humanity,  knew  better,  and  was  so  overcome  that  he  dashed 
the  tablets  of  the  Law  upon  the  rocks. 

The  monks  aver  that  it  was  at  the  very  spring  I  have  described 


Ras-sufsafeh,   East  Side,  from  Aaron's  Hill. 


62  I]^  SCBIPTUME  LANDS. 

tliat  this  scene  of  just  and  mighty  wrath  took  place.  Here  the  forked 
lightning  flashed  from  the  hands  of  Jehovah.  It  tore  open  the  earth, 
twisted  and  turned  the  veins  of  steel -hard  diorite  as  though  they  were 
but  ribbons  of  green,  fissured  the  great  cliffs  of  granite  and  poured 
into  them  from  the  bursted  arteries  of  rough,  red  porphyry,  and  sent 
the  streams  boiling  and  seething  like  hot  lava  to  the  base,  where 
"Aaron's  Hill,"  or  the  "Hill  of  the  Golden  Calf,"  is  located.  With- 
out a  single  trumpet-blast  to  warn  them,  the  noisy  idolaters  were  de- 
stroyed by  the  torrents  which  came 'down,  or  were  buried  under  the 
confusion  of  rocks  which  followed. 

The  monks  tell  us  further  that  "  Moses  and  Joshua  were  directed  by 
Jehovah  to  stay  beneath  the  great  rocks  which  cover  *  Jethro's  Well ' 
until  his  mighty  wrath  had  subsided,  and  that  since  then  the  supply  of 
water  has  not  failed."  To  all  of  these  places  the  ages  of  monks  have 
had  abundance  of  time  to  fasten  some  tradition.  "  Aaron's  Hill "  is 
also  reverenced  by  the  Bedouins,  who  come  once  a  year  to  the  little 
chapel  on  its  summit  to  sacrifice  a  camel. 

The  Sinai  mountains  and  their  wild  surroundings  seem  to  be  just 
as  the  Book  describes  them — as  the  Great  Architect  constructed  them. 
No  change  appears  to  have  taken  place  since  the  followers  of  Moses 
made  their  departure  for  the  Promised  Land. 


i 


CHAPTER   in. 

FROM   MOUNT   SIXAI  TO   MOUNT   SEIR. 

The  Departure.— The  "Hill  of  the  Golden  Calf."— Wady  es  Sheikh.— Hazeroth.— The 
Gorge  of  'Ain  Hudherah. — Where  Miriam  Taunted  Moses. — A  Fantasia  of  Color. — 
Wady 'El  Ain. — A  Stream  in  the  Desert. — Sublime  Mountain  "Notches." — The 
Gulf  of  Akabah. — An  Oasis  by  the  Sea.— Rough  Travel. — The  Island  of  Kureiyeh. 
— Night  Scenes  by  the  Sea. — Ezion  Gaber. — Elath. — Akabah. — Wady  Arabah,  the 
"Highway"  to  Palestine. — Changing  Camels  and  Guides. — A  Troubled  Camp. — In 
the  Mountains  of  Seir. — A  Well  Found. — Rock-houses  or  Nawamis. — Fantastic 
Forms. — The  Rock  of  El-Guerrah. — A  Scheme  Projected. — An  Envoy  sent  to  Eljy. 
—Mount  Hor  in  Sight.— 'Ain  El  Dalegeh— the  "Well  of  Moses."— Visitors.— A 
Bedouin  Village. — Petra  Close  at  Hand. — "  A  Desolation." — The  World  Beyond. 
— The  Mount  Seir  Journey  Ended. — At  the  Gate  of  Petra. 

rriHE  trayeller  who  endeavors  to  work  out  the  topog-raphy  of  the 
-*-  Hebrew  migration  from  Egypt  to  the  Promised  Land  finds  him- 
self engaged  in  disentangling  a  very  puzzling  skein.  He  may  pro- 
gress so  finely  as  to  satisfy  himself  that  Mr.  Ebers  and  others  are  en- 
tirely ^Tong  in  giving  Jebel  Serbal  the  honor  of  being  the  true  Sinai ; 
he  may  be  very  sure  that  Professor  Baker  Green's  argument  that  the 
Hebrews  crossed  the  desert  in  a  direct  easterly  course  until  they  came 
to  the  head  of  the  GuK  of  Akabah — where  he  locates  Elim — is  falla- 
cious ;  again,  he  may  contentedly  accept  the  route  followed  in  "  Sinai 
and  the  Wilderness."  Yet  after  his  arrival  at  the  foot  of  Aaron's  Hill 
the  thread  is  likely  to  be  lost  again,  and  our  traveller  is  quite  willing 
to  join  the  cry  which  has  been  sounded  all  over  the  world  for  many 
centuries,  "  Where  is  Kadesh  ?  " 

"We  must  accept  tradition,  and  follow  what  has  been,  in  a  measure, 
satisfactorily  disentangled  for  us.  In  doing  this  we  leave  a  large,  con- 
fused mass  of  testimony  behind.  We  simply  take  up  a  thread,  follow 
it  awhile,  then  break  our  connection  and  proceed  with  another. 

The  departure  from  Mount  Sinai,  whether  for  Petra,  or  for  Pales- 
tine, is  usually  made  by  way  of  the  Wady  es  Sheik,  the  wide  mouth  of 
which  enters  the  Sinai  valley  nearly  opposite  to  "  Aaron's  Hill,"  or  the 


54  /iV^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

"  Hill  of  the  Golden  Calf."  The  denuded  peaks  lift  themselves  upon 
each  side  of  this  valley,  just  as  they  do  east  and  west  of  the  plain  of 
Er  Raha.  The  lack  of  foliage,  however,  is  more  than  compensated  for 
by  the  wonderful  display  of  color.  It  rivals  that  of  the  Wady  Gharan- 
del,  over  on  the  Red  Sea  side  of  the  peninsula.  At  one  place  there  is 
a  noble,  cone-shaped  mountain  of  fawn-colored  red  and  brown  sand- 
stone, with  another  adjoining  of  black  and  green  diorite  ;  while  rolling 
down  between  them  like  a  cataract  is  a  wide  incline  of  bluish-gray 
sand.  Here  and  there  are  sharp  crags  and  jagged  peaks,  with  their 
depressions  filled  nearly  to  their  edges  with  sand,  as  in  Nubia,  only 
here  the  sand  is  not  of  such  golden  tint  as  there.  Frequently  the 
lower  rock-surfaces  are  covered  with  Sinaitic  inscriptions.  Many  of 
these  "  writings  "  look  like  the  tracery  of  some  antique  humorist,  for 
the  figures  are  mainly  of  grotesquely  formed  animals.  At  frequent 
intervals  the  floor  of  Wady  es  Sheik  is  as  brilliantly  colored  as  the 
mountains  are ;  and  though  zigzagging,  like  the  sky-lines  of  its  peaks, 
it  is  as  level  as  a  diligence  road  over  the  Alps. 

It  must  have  been  a  glorious  sight  when  Israel  was  mustered  here 
and  marched  along  in  full  array  toward  the  Promised  Land — the  sons 
of  Aaron  at  the  head,  bearing  the  two  silver  trumpets  that  had  been 
made  for  the  impending  journey. 

This  assembling  seems  very  recent  to  the  traveller  when,  on  camel- 
back,  he  starts  before  sunrise  and  moves  slowly  up  the  Wady  es  Sheik. 
It  seems  even  more  recent  when,  turning  back,  he  sees  the  banks  of 
floundering  clouds,  impelled  by  the  winding  air-currents,  come  up  from 
the  Sinai  group.  Every  foot  of  the  way  becomes  a  sublime  study,  and 
every  rift  in  the  mist  seems  to  disclose  pages  of  history.  The  second 
day  after  leaving  camp  at  Mount  Sinai  the  clues  become  entangled 
again,  and  once  more  we  are  forced  to  break  the  connection.  After  the 
murmuring  ones  had  died  and  were  buried  at  Kibroth-hattaavah,  the 
Israelites  "  encamped  at  Hazeroth."  The  location  of  Hazeroth  is  pretty 
well  verified  at  a  place  on  the  direct  route  to  Akabah.  After  two  days 
of  travel  from  Mount  Sinai  the  traveller  comes  to  a  wide-reaching  line 
of  hills  which  seems  to  stretch  along  in  the  shadows  of  the  evening  like 
a  city  wall.  These  hills  form  one  side  of  a  plain  where  Hazeroth  is 
believed  to  have  been  located.  Here  we  encamped.  Long  before 
reaching  it  we  had  been  watched  by  a  garrison  of  greedy  vultures  sta- 
tioned on  the  top  of  the  rocky  outpost.    Their  presence  could  not  have 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  8EIR. 


55 


been  discovered  before  morning"  had  not  some  of  the  number,  more  un- 
easy than  their  comrades,  risen  into  the  last  departing-  rays  of  the  suu' 
set,  swooi^ed  around  for  a  moment,  and  then  clumsily  dropped  like  lead 
into  the  shadows  again.  The  eyening  meal  was  made  ready  and  eaten 
here,  and  the  old,  familiar  songs  were  sung"  to  drive  away  home-long"- 
ings.     At  early  candlelight  the  weary  desert-travellers  crept  into  their 


^^^£-t:. 


■a^.^fe^^ 


Jebel   Haroun,   or  the   "Hill  of  the   Golden  Calf." 


tents  and  lay  down  to  rest  and  sleep.  Such  is  the  experience  of  all 
who  spend  the  night  under  the  long  wall  which  protects  one  side  of 
the  gorge  of  'Ain  Hudherah.  When  the  morning  comes  the  top  of  the 
wall  must  be  gained,  and  the  traveller  changes  places  with  the  vultures ; 
for  as  soon  as  he  vacates  his  camp,  they  swirl  down  to  it  with  the  hope 
of  finding  some  morsels  of  food. 

It  is  difficult  to  find  a  greater  surprise  than  that  which  delights  the 
eye  when,  after  an  hour  of  hard  climbing,  the  top  of  one  of  the  neig"h- 


56 


/iV^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


boring  hills  is  reached.  To  the  right  is  a  broad,  natural  stairway  which 
winds  down  for  the  distance  of  two  hundred  feet.  Its  sides  are  lined 
with  fluted  and  spiral  columns,  the  depressions  of  which  are  colored 
red,  yellow,  lilac,  and  blue,  and  now  and  then  are  wavy  like  the  stones 


Tne  Gorge  of  'Ain  Hudherah.     Hazeroth. 


of  Petra.  Beyond,  and  intervening,  are  numberless  peaks — red,  white, 
brown,  greenish  gray  tipped  with  red,  yellow,  reddish-brown  covered  a 
part  of  the  way  up  with  white  sand,  pink,  and  umber — all  in  strange 
contrast  with  the  greater  shapes  of  solid  brown  and  gray.  One  of  the 
most  beautifully  formed  peaks  is  of  light  green  tipped  with  bright 
brick-red.  The  floor  of  this  many-hued  passageway  is  white  sand  and 
sandstone,  waved  here  and  there  with  lilac,  yellow,  and  red.  Near  the 
centre  are  two  bright  oases,  with  groves  of  palms,  rice-fields,  and 
patches  of  lentils.  Several  walled  wells  are  there,  fed  by  the  springs 
and  subterranean  aqueducts  which  convey  water  from  the  mountains  on 
the  west.  In  some  places  the  aqueducts  are  uncovered.  They  are 
partly  cut  from  the  native  rock  and  partly  lined  with  slabs  of  quarried 
stone.    It  must  have  cost  much  labor  and  enterprise  to  construct  them, 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  SEIR. 


57 


and  do  they  not  tell  that  many  people  dwelt  there  once  upon  a  time  % 
A  rare  scene  was  presented  when  our  caravan  halted  in  the  gorge  of 
'Ain  Hudherah  and  the  travellers  were  made  welcome  to  water  by  the 
old  sheikh  who  resides  there.  He  declared  that  he  was  over  one  hun- 
dred years  old,  and  showed  his  hospitality  by  brushing  the  sand  from 
the  palm-logs  aroimd  the  well  "  to  make  a  place  for  the  stranger." 

Passing  through  this  gorge  one  gains  the  impression  that  it  must 
have  been  the  bed  of  a  lake.  Surely  the  water  must  have  built  up  the 
strata  of  color  which,  lying  one  upon  the  other,  form  some  of  the  domes 
and  mountains.  This  surmise  is  confirmed  when  the  northern  extrem- 
ity is  approached,  for  there  some  very  curious  formations  are  found. 
Among  others  there  is  a  sandstone  column  about  twelve  feet  high, 
shaped  at  the  top  like  an 
Egyptian  capital.  Over- 
hanging it  and  reaching 
down  two  or  three  feet  is 
a  coral-like  formation 
which  gives  it  a  very  fan- 
tastic appearance.  The 
column  is  striped  verti- 
cally in  red,  brown,  yel- 
low, and  fawn  colors, 
while  the  capital  is  of  a 
delicate  gray,  varied  by 
lilac,  and  white.  It 
stands  there  alone,  the 
speechless  evidence  of 
some  effort  of  nature  hard 
to  understand.  Its  back- 
ground is  a  water-sculpt- 
ured wall,  colored  by  the 

mineral  wealth  of  generous  nature.  It  seems  like  a  petrified  i3illar  of 
cloud  and  of  fire.  This  spot,  with  perhaps  more  reason  than  the  other, 
is  considered  to  be  Hazeroth.  Numbers  xii.  Truly,  such  a  fantasia  of 
color  as  is  here  seen  was  sufficient  to  put  the  light-hearted  Miriam 
into  a  teasing  humor,  and  to  cause  her  to  taunt  poor,  meek  Moses 
about  the  color  of  his  Sinaitic  spouse.  True,  she  was  afilicted  with 
leprosy  for  this  exhibition  of  humor,  but,  in  answer  to  her  brother's 


Miriam's  Well.     Hazeroth. 


58  I]^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

appeal  to  the  merciful  God,  she  was  cured,  and  lived  to  cheer  his  life 
some  time  afterward.  At  the  larg-er  well  is  a  splendid  spring  of  water, 
sunk  and  walled  about  ten  feet  below  the  surface.  The  well  was  built 
doubtless  many  centuries  ago,  and  in  a  most  substantial  manner.  The 
cool  water  could  be  seen  bubbling  up  through  the  white,  sandy  bot- 
tom.    The  flow  is  intermittent. 

The  glories  of  form  and  of  color  in  this  gorge  spoil  one  for  the  en- 
joyment of  the  broad  piazza,  the  Wady  el  'Ain,  into  which  it  leads. 
A  half  day's  journey,  say  a  dozen  miles  from  Hazeroth,  over  an  unus- 
ually level  way  on  the  left,  is  an  ascending  wady  between  two  lines  of 
mountains.  It  is  carpeted  by  sandstone  the  color  of  clover  blossoms. 
Green  bushes  dotted  here  and  there  present  a  lovely  picture.  Nature 
was  in  a  freakish  convulsion  when  she  set  this  part  of  her  stage.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  wady,  the  rosy  carpet  of  which  lies  outspread  as 
soft  as  an  Axminster,  are  two  lofty  mountains  of  pink  granite.  Their 
bases  come  so  closely  together  that  the  space  between  them  scarcely 
admits  the  passage  of  two  loaded  camels  abreast.  A  great  rock  divides 
the  way.  It  has  stood  there  as  sentinel  for  ages.  This  is  "  the  en- 
trance-gate "  to  Wady  el  'Ain  ("  the  wady  with  the  fountain  or  spring  "). 
Beyond  the  gate  a  magnificent  wall  of  granite  rises  almost  perpen- 
dicularly and  seems  to  form  the  end  of  the  wady;  but  it  does  not. 
There  is  a  clear  passage  to  the  right  which  leads  to  a  bright  oasis  lo- 
cated on  the  direct  route  to  the  Gulf  of  Akabah.  Did  Moses  lead  his 
hosts  one  by  one  through  this  narrow  pass  ?  Did  these  rough  walls 
reecho  the  murmurings  of  Hebrew  discontent  ?  Tradition  holds  that 
they  did.  The  Book  says,  "And  they  departed  from  Hazeroth,  and 
.  .  .  encamped  at  Ezion-gaber."  Ezion-gaber  is  supposed  to  have 
been  located  at  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Akabah.  Between  the  two 
places  there  are  seventeen  stations  named  in  Numbers  xxxiii.,  where 
"they  encamped."  It  would  be  the  natural  thing  to  follow  up  the 
thread,  but  the  explorations  so  far  made  do  not  enable  us  to  locate  the 
long  line  of  places  mentioned  in  the  bible  record.  Our  journey  led  us 
through  Wady  el  'Ain,  eastward  and  a  little  southward  to  Wady  Wetir, 
and  through  it  to  the  Gulf  of  Akabah.  I  have  already  alluded  to  the 
bright  oasis,  or  "  spring,"  we  found  in  Wady  el  'Ain.  There  is  a  line 
of  palms  and  other  trees  there  which  gives  an  air  of  fertility  most  ac- 
ceptable to  the  traveller.  The  whole  secret  of  this  is  a  running  brook 
which  comes  down  the  mountain  side  on  the  left,  and  follows  the  course 


The  Entrance-gate  "  to  Wady  El  'Ain. 


60  US'  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

of  the  wady  until  the  water  tumbles  and  leaps  into  the  sea.  Our  camp 
was  at  the  base  of  a  great  cliff  and — such  an  unusual  thing  in  the  desert 
— we  were  hushed  to  sleep  by  the  music  of  the  cascades.  An  evening 
bath,  was,  of  course,  a  part  of  the  programme  there,  and  a  morning 
one  too.  We  were  much  amused,  too,  by  the  pranks  of  our  camels. 
Frequently  we  found  them  capering  about  delightedly,  forgetting  all 
their  dignity  and  accustomed  churlishness,  and  becoming  almost  as 
festive  as  goats  over  their  enjoyment  of  the  water.  Both  traveller, 
beast,  and  attendant  caught  the  inspiration,  and  seemed  to  have  their 
youth  renewed,  so  rare  a  treat  is  it  to  find  such  a  beauty-spot  in  a 
desert,  and  such  an  abundance  of  water.  It  was  through  these  very 
gates  that  Moses  and  his  murmuring  people  must  have  passed  after 
gathering  their  quota  of  quails  and  manna  in  Hazeroth. 

The  American  traveller  must  confess  that  the  succession  of  splendid 
mountain  passes  which  now  occurs  exceeds  in  beauty  all  the  "  notches  " 
of  the  New  Hampshire  hills.  The  space  between  the  notches  seems  to 
be  nothing,  one  following  the  other  as  quickly  in  succession  as  can  pos- 
sibly be,  and  running  zigzag  or  at  right  angles  with  each  other.  As 
to  the  fantastic  coloring  of  the  rocks,  it  is  indescribable.  On  the  right 
is  a  cliff  of  bright  red,  except  at  its  feet  it  is  gray.  The  tremendous 
mountain  which  closes  the  pass  seemingly,  is  gray,  red,  green,  striped 
and  dotted,  without  arrangement  or  system.  The  lower  peak  is  ash- 
gray  and  red.  For  two  hours  the  route  is  through  these  wondrous 
passes,  with  no  opportunity  of  seeing  one  hundred  rods  ahead  at  a 
time.  The  variety  of  base,  column,  outline,  and  height,  is  marvellous. 
The  echoes  are  called  upon  to  share  the  pleasure,  and  always  a  quick 
repartee  is  given.  Gay  pictures  loom  up  on  all  sides  as  the  scene 
changes  in  the  winding  valleys,  and  the  traveller  is  enchanted  with  the 
glorious  views  about  him. 

After  passing  through  the  succession  of  notches  described,  we  enter 
the  wider  and  less  beautiful  Wady  Wetir,  whose  scenery  is  also  fine, 
but  whose  attendant  mountains  are  further  away,  and,  therefore,  do  not 
seem  so  high.  Green  caper  plants  grow  up  their  sides  and  give  great 
relief  to  the  eye.  An  hour  of  this,  and  then  away  in  the  distance  a 
great  blue  spot  is  discovered  almost  up  in  the  sky.  It  is  the  sea — the 
Gulf  of  Akabah.  The  forms  of  the  Arabian  hills  arise  like  the  full 
moon  at  sunset.  We  are  in  the  dry  wady  or  bed  of  a  raging  torrent, 
where  only  recently  the  mountain  waters  had  been  hurrying  to  the  sea. 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  8EIR.  61 

Confused  masses  of  stone  and  pebble  here  and  there  abounded,  inter- 
cepting old  palm  trunks  and  the  debris  of  sticks  and  grass ;  then  great 
patches  of  thin  mud,  curled  up  by  the  sun  into  forms  like  pans  and 
dishes  and  cylinders.  The  mountains  which  stand  next  to  the  sea  are 
fine  in  outline,  bleak,  and  bare.  And  what  could  be  more  beautiful 
than,  at  the  mouth  of  the  wady,  the  deep  blue  sea  ?  As  we  neared  it, 
its  lovely  color  became  more  intense,  and  its  golden  shores  more  in 
detail.  On  the  other  side,  the  purple  hills  "  towards  Mecca  "  are  very 
distinct,  while  in  the  far  distance  the  silvery  clouds  overtop  all. 

Oh !  the  world  seems  so  grand  and  so  wide  and  so  glorious  at  such 
places.  ^Tiat  a  pity  that  in  a  whole  year,  either  on  water  or  by  land, 
scarcely  a  soul  passes  by,  for  the  Suez  Canal  has  robbed  this  beautiful 
gulf  of  its  commerce,  and  there  is  no  travel  through  these  wild  moun- 
tain passes,  except  by  the  shepherd  who  drives  his  flocks  a  long  dis- 
tance to  reach  the  water  and  the  herbage  of  El  'Ain. 

When  I  reached  the  shore  I  turned  back  for  one  farewell  glance  up 
the  pass  which  we  had  just  travelled.  The  delicate  blue  of  the  sky  was 
substituted  for  that  of  the  sea ;  the  mountains  on  the  left  were  of  light 
gray  and  streaked  diagonally  with  broad  veins  of  red  porphyry ;  those 
on  the  right  w^ere  too  far  away  to  make  out  their  color,  giving  us  only 
glimpses  of  their  shapes.  At  last  I  turned  away  from  them  for  a  march 
upon  the  shores  of  the  sea  again,  glad  to  have  the  change.  A  great 
spire  in  the  distance  loomed  up,  and  between  us  were  the  stony  scrap- 
ings from  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  infinite  in  quantity  and  looking 
like  the  sides  of  glaciers  over  which  nature  had  emptied  a  grand  pro- 
fusion of  her  richest  colors. 

We  are  now  east  and  north  of  Mount  Sinai.  Following  the  lines 
of  a  lovely  bay  we  came  suddenly  upon  that  most  strange  of  all  phe- 
nomena, an  oasis  by  the  sea.  A  long  time  before  we  reached  it,  the 
groves  of  tall  palms  waved  us  the  signal.  It  was  no  bewildering 
mirage  this  time,  for  soon  we  halted  at  the  running  spring  near  them, 
and  encamped  there  for  the  night.  The  prospect  toward  the  desert 
from  this  point  included  some  of  the  most  gorgeous  mountain-views 
it  was  our  privilege  to  see  during  our  whole  journey. 

The  mountains  fairly  step  into  the  sea,  or  else  have  tumbled  down 
great  masses  from  their  steep  inclines,  as  if  to  make  it  rougher  for  the 
traveller.  Here  we  are  taught  to  appreciate  one  of  the  greatest  mira- 
cles of  the  Exodus,  which  consisted  in  the  fact  that  the  shoes  of  the 


62 


IW  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


children  of  Israel  "  waxed  not  old  upon  their  feet."  The  next  morning" 
all  thing's  appeared  more  beautiful  than  ever — the  gravelly  shore,  the 
blue  water  repeated  in  color  by  the  sky,  the  whispering  palms,  and 
then  the  mountains  that  were  to  be  our  companions  all  the  day. 

But  more  enchanting  than  all  was  the  water  of  the  lovely  bay.  One 
moment  its  glistening  surface  was  as  calm  and  as  placid  as  a  sea  of  ice ; 
the  next  it  was  all  in  a  quiver,  and  its  broad  expanse  broke  up  into 


By    tiie   Gulf  of  Akabah. 


belts  of  the  most  striking  iridescent  colors.  When  it  was  quiet,  it 
seemed  to  be  listening.  Did  some  angel  or  sweet  spirit  of  the  air  and 
sunshine  stoop  down  close,  close  to  its  cheeks  and  lips  and  cause  it  to 
blush  at  the  sweet  love-messages  which  were  told  through  their  silent 
breathings  ?    Thus  the  colors  were  created  mayhap ;  I  cannot  tell. 

As  we  rode  slowly  along,  close  to  the  shore,  we  saw  the  wide  wadies 
come  out  to  the  beach,  spreading  their  mouths  fan-like;  or  in  long 
rows,  masses  of  the  rocky  ridges  which  have  been  driven  thither  by 
the  violence  of  the  torrents.    All  these  fragments  have  once  been  parts 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  8EIR.  63 

of  the  mountains,  and  have  been  cast  off  by  storm  and  sun.  Photog- 
raphy fails  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  g-org-eous  tints  of  color  which 
g-ive  beauty  and  grandeur  to  these  groups  of  mountains.  The  scene  is 
one  of  g-lorious  splendor,  only  to  be  found  in  this  reg-ion  of  the  world. 
Should  the  traveller  encamp  here,  he  is  indeed  fortunate  if  his  tent  is 
not  blown  down  upon  his  head  repeatedly,  with  more  or  less  destruc- 
tion of  its  contents,  for  the  soil  is  sandy  and  not  favorable  to  holding 
a  tight  grii3  upon  the  smooth  tent-pins  used  to  hold  the  frail  tent 
down  to  mother  earth.  The  old  songs  tell  us  of  places  charming, 
"  Where  the  winds  their  revels  keep ; "  but  here  they  utterly  failed  to 
"  keep  "  for  once.  My  ]poor  tent  was  repeatedly  overturned  in  the  night, 
and  a  sorry  mixture  made  of  purple  ink.  Pond's  extract,  notes  for  illus- 
trated lectures,  and  tent  paraphernalia.  If  Solomon,  who  was  wont  to 
sail  his  vessels  along  this  coast,  laden  with  the  golden  stores  of  Ophir, 
ever  came  ashore  and  camped-out  here,  some  of  "  all  his  glory  "  must 
have  been  destroyed  if  he  had  anything  like  my  unhappy  smash-up. 

The  shore  now  becomes  very  rocky  in  places,  but  often  is  relieved 
by  tremendous  reefs  of  coral,  intermixed  with  the  wady  debris  lining 
the  coast.  Along  this  rough  shore  one  must  creep,  or  else  climb  over 
the  lofty  peaks.  On  the  other  side  of  the  sea  toward  the  Arabian 
shore — the  strangest  contrast — great  fields  of  grain  are  seen  waving  to 
and  fro,  and  long  rows  of  stately  palms,  whose  lofty  heads  swing  side 
by  side,  reaching  apparently  to  the  sky.  They  are  at  Akabah,  some 
miles  away. 

A  day  of  rougher  travel  than  usual  followed  now ;  for  miles  of  the 
shore  were  scattered  with  ill-formed  fragments  of  the  coral  reefs,  and 
thousands  of  great  rough  shells,  from  which  the  scales  of  mother  o' 
pearl  are  obtained.  Everything  lying  about  seemed  so  old,  and  so 
worn  by  time  and  the  scorching  sun,  except  the  families  of  lively  crabs 
which  abounded  there.  These  last  we  gave  an  abundant  welcome,  and 
captured  sufficient  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  camp -chest  supplies 
for  a  day  or  two. 

Turning  a  picturesque  coral  reef  toward  evening,  suddenly  a  pretty 
island  came  into  view.  It  was  the  Island  of  Kureiyeh.  The  scene 
reminds  one  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  The  island  is  capped  by  the  ruins 
of  an  old  fortress  whose  history  we  do  not  know.  It  may  have  been 
erected  by  the  Eomans,  or  by  the  forefathers  of  our  dragoman,  or  by 
the  ancestors  of  the  Bedouin  who  accompanied  us.    We  could  gather 


64  IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

no  bits  of  history  from  any  of  them.  The  poor  fellows  can  only  view 
such  things  as  we  do  the  great  wonders  of  architecture  along  the  Nile 
or  at  Baalbec  or  at  Palmyra,  where  our  predecessors  left  no  record  of 
their  aesthetic  and  athletic  accomplishments. 

A  moonlight  night  on  the  Nile  affords  a  sublime  experience  always, 
but,  ah !  these  lovely  night-scenes  in  the  desert  were  beyond  all  others 
the  most  grand,  and  stirred  up  feelings  within  the  soul,  to  which  futile 
photography,  the  "  feeling "  of  the  graver,  nor  placid  paint  can  by  no 
means  render  justice. 

And  a  sight  to  be  remembered  forever,  was  that  of  our  long  pic- 
turesque caravan  trailing  along  this  sandy  beach,  beneath  the  silvery, 
glimmering  light  of  the  moon,  more  like  some  ghostly  cortege  of  the 
eastern  world  than  modem  travellers  in  this  age  of  steam,  photogra- 
phy, and  telephones.  The  Arabs,  wrapped  in  their  flowing  robes ; 
the  huge,  awkward  camels  swinging  along  with  tread  as  measured 
as  the  beat  of  the  pendulum ;  the  deep  shadows,  and  here,  the  sharp 
outline  of  the  castled  island  against  the  blue  sky,  increased  the  illusion. 
Next  morning  we  broke  camp  and  marched  along  slowly  and  silently, 
for  we  feared  that  a  spoken  word  might  break  the  spell  and  cause  the 
mysterious  and  romantic  scene  to  vanish  as  though  it  were  a  bubble. 

After  groping  around  the  mountains  lining  the  shore,  over  the 
stones,  for  a  few  hours  more,  the  northern  end  of  the  Gulf  of  Akabah 
was  reached.  On  one  side  the  shore  is  hugged  closely  by  the  moun- 
tains, while  on  the  other  the  roaring  sea  restlessly  washes  the  pebbly 
beach.  Close  by,  some  fishermen,  who  had  seen  the  travellers  coming 
from  afar,  were  trying  to  catch  some  of  the  members  of  the  finny  tribe 
for  "  a  present  of  welcome."  And,  in  fact,  they  brought  to  land  three 
immense  "  red  snappers "  worthy  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Over  these 
we  made  no  "  murmuring,"  but  purchased  them  all  for  our  table.  The 
mountains  now  grow  nearer  and  nearer,  and  the  Oasis  of  Akabah  is 
seen  on  the  other  side.  We  must  cross  the  head  of  the  gulf  before 
reaching  the  port  of  Akabah,  however;  and  in  doing  so  we  pass  the 
site  of  the  old  town  of  Ezion-gaber,  at  which  place  Solomon  not  only 
built  his  vessels,  but  landed  them  laden  with  the  gold  of  Ophir. 
Now  vessels  reach  this  port  only  once  a  year,  viz.,  to  bring  food  for 
the  pilgrims  on  their  way  to  Mecca.  With  them,  alas!  come  flies 
and  vermin  suflicient  to  make  it  unpleasant  for  any  future  traveller 
for  a  year.     Numbers  xxxiii.  35 ;  Deuteronomy  ii.  8. 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  SEIR. 


65 


The  village  of  Akabali  is  supposed  to  stand  close  to  the  site  of 
the  ancient  city  of  Elath,  which  latter  place  is  only  kept  in  memory 
now  by  a  few  mounds,  mostly  covered  with  the  graves  of  Mussul- 
mans. I  mounted  one  of  these  mounds,  and,  with  two  of  the  graves 
named  in  the  foreground,  secured  a  view  of  the  town  of  Akabah  with 


Akabah  and  the  Site  of  Elath. 


the  castle  or  fort  supported  there  by  the  government  for  the  protection 
of  the  Mecca  pilgrims.  The  houses  of  Akabah  are  built  of  colored 
stone,  but  roofless.  The  mountains  in  the  distance  are  of  lovely  tints. 
The  fort  here  is  rather  an  important  one,  and  is  garrisoned  by  Egyp- 
tian soldiers.  Its  greatest  importance,  however,  is  due  to  the  fact  that 
it  protects  a  well  of  excellent  water,  built  no  one  knows  when  or  by 
whom,  but  supposed  to  have  been  the  work  of  that  great  general,  Solo- 


66  11^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

mon,  who  one  day  "in  all  his  glory"  resided  hereabouts.  1  Kings 
ix.  26. 

Leading  from  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Akabah  to  Palestine  is  the 
wildest  and  most  extensive  wady  of  all  in  Arabia,  known  as  Wady 
Arabah.  It  was  once,  and  is  now  the  principal  highway  from  Akabah 
to  the  Dead  Sea,  and  was  the  thoroughfare  used  by  Solomon  in  his 
day.  It  was  the  scene  also  of  Israel's  flight  from  the  land  of  Edom 
after  being  driven  back  by  the  warriors  of  the  Edomites,  and  is  the 
approach  of  the  present  traveller  who  goes  from  Akabah  to  Southern 
Palestine.  It  is  bounded  on  either  side  by  a  long  chain  of  mountains. 
The  range  on  the  east  is  known  as  Mount  Seir.  A  "  stone-circle,"  one 
of  the  curious  structures  so  plentiful  in  this  neighborhood,  stands  at 
the  southern  end  of  Wady  Arabah.  Near  by  is  one  of  the  mounds 
which  mark  the  site  of  ancient  Elath.  The  desolate  wady  has  not  a 
thing  of  beauty  or  strangeness  to  relieve  its  monotony  for  almost  its 
whole  length. 

Our  halt  at  Akabah  was  not  made  because  of  any  particular  inter- 
est in  the  place  or  in  its  inhabitants,  but  to  submit  to  a  custom  of 
the  country,  which  was  very  disagreeable.  Every  Bedouin  tribe  holds 
the  right  to  charge  for  conducting  travellers  through  their  country 
and  territory,  and  to  prevent  it  being  done  by  others.  We  were,  there- 
fore, obliged  to  part  with  our  gentle  Tawaras,  who  had  conducted  us 
from  Suez,  and  place  ourselves  under  the  care  of  the  turbulent,  vaga- 
bond Haiwaytat  tribe,  whose  sheik  is  Ibn-jad  or  Ben- j  ad.  It  was  with 
him  we  must  agree  if  we  expected  to  see  Petra. 

It  has  been  said  that  there  is  but  one  entrance  to  Petra.  Yet  there 
is  a  "  back  door,"  so  to  speak,  through  which  some  travellers  have  made 
their  way  into  the  city,  and  by  means  of  which  they  have  also  more 
suddenly  made  their  departure.  The  real  approach  is  through  a  nar- 
row gorge  some  two  miles  long,  of  which  the  gateway  faces  the  east. 
This  is  reached  from  Palestine  by  way  of  Moab,  east  of  the  Dead  Sea, 
and  from  the  south  by  the  route  which  I  took. 

The  back  door  may  be  gained  from  north  or  south  by  way  of  the 
Wady  Arabah,  into  which  it  opens  near  the  base  of  venerable  Mount 
Hor.  Visitors  who  enter  thus  may  perhaps  escape  a  contest  with  the 
Bedouins,  but  they  lose  the  most  imposing  and  startling  scenery,  that 
of  the  approach  through  the  Gorge  of  the  Sik,  as  well  as  the  most  sat- 
isfactory first  impressions  of  the  ruins.    They  see  the  town  from  the 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  SEIB,  67 

back  ;  they  enter  the  grand  theatre  from  behind  the  scenes,  and  regret 
their  lack  of  courage  all  their  lives. 

My  heart  sank  when  I  looked  into  the  grim,  yellow,  dissembling 
face  of  Sheikh  Ben- j  ad,  and  saw  the  scornful  smile  which  came  over  it 
as  I  made  known  my  desires  through  my  dragoman.  After  much  argu- 
ment, conducted  in  the  true  Arabic  fashion,  I  was  informed  that  in  one 
week  I  could  be  supplied  with  dromedaries  and  men,  who  would  take 
my  party  to  Petra,  "  provided  no  visitation  of  Providence  intervened." 
I  had  no  disposition  to  remain  a  week  where  the  Mecca  pilgrims  had 
left  a  true  Egyptian  plague  of  fleas  and  flies ;  and  I  replied  that  un- 
less our  departure  could  be  made  in  two  days,  we  should  go  back  to 
Suez.  This  disturbed  him  somewhat,  and  he  expressed  sorrow  that  we 
showed  him  so  little  respect  as  to  desire  to  leave  his  territory  so  soon. 
I  did  not  relent.  Of  course,  the  sheikh's  true  reasoning  was  that  the 
longer  we  remained  in  Akabah  the  more  he  would  get  of  the  money 
that  we  must  have  with  us. 

The  Tawara  Arabs  who  had  brought  us  from  Suez,  and  whom  tribal 
law  forbade  to  conduct  us  into  the  country  of  another  tribe,  had  re- 
turned to  their  homes.  Yet  I  assured  Ben- j  ad  that  rather  than  remain 
in  Akabah  a  week  we  would  walk  back  to  Suez.  For  a  time  it  looked 
Tery  much  as  if  I  should  have  to  carry  out  my  threat,  so  obdurate  was 
the  sheikh.  With  my  companions  I  retired  to  the  beach  to  form  our 
plans — just  as  Solomon  used  to  sit  by  the  sea,  and  watch  the  coming  of 
his  vessels  from  Ophir — leaving  Ben-jad,  on  his  side,  an  opportunity  for 
reflection.  In  about  an  hour  I  went  back  to  our  camp  to  see  if  there  was 
any  show  of  weakness  on  the  part  of  the  Arabs.  The  scene  was  indescrib- 
able. Our  tents  had  been  taken  down  ;  our  luggage  was  spread  on  the 
ground  in  confusion  ;  camels  and  men  enough  to  accommodate  three  par- 
ties such  as  ours  had  made  their  appearance  mysteriously ;  and  the  Bed- 
ouins were  pulling  about  our  boxes  of  stores  and  photographic  parapher- 
nalia, and  quarrelling  over  them,  all  anxious  now  to  join  our  caravan, 
since  the  sheikh  had  decided  we  could  make  our  departure  at  once. 

I  placed  our  new  friends  in  a  quandary  again  by  mounting  one  of 
our  large  provision  boxes,  and  shouting  to  them  at  the  top  of  my  voice 
to  remove  our  property  at  once  from  their  camels  and  to  get  out  of  my 
sight.  Chaos  ceased  for  a  time,  and  further  consultation  was  had.  I 
refused  to  allow  the  camels  to  be  loaded  until  I  knew  who  was  to  be 
our  conducting  sheikh  and  who  the  camel-drivers,  and  until  a  contract 


68  m  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

satisfactory  to  my  dragoman  had  been  signed,  sealed,  and  delivered. 
After  several  hours  of  argument,  during  which  the  Egyptian  scribe 
stationed  at  the  fort  at  Akabah  had  written,  altered,  and  destroyed  sev- 
eral contracts,  one  satisfactory  to  both  sides  was  agreed  upon.  Like 
all  such  documents,  the  first  part  was  made  up  of  salutations  and  com- 
pliments, while  the  last  lines  consisted  of  compliments  and  salutations. 
The  business  in  it  was  added  as  a  postscript.  Exactions  were  made  for 
castle  fees,  for  a  useless  guard  of  soldiers  during  our  three  nights  at 
Akabah,  for  camels,  camel-drivers,  a  conducting  sheikh,  water  at  five 
dollars  per  barrel,  for  barley  for  the  horse  of  the  sheikh,  a  present  for 
his  newest  wife,  an  entrance  fee,  or  "  blackmail,"  for  each  white  person 
in  our  party,  and  a  special  tax  for  our  Nubian  servant  Abdullah,  "  be- 
cause he  was  a  foreigner  and  black  !  " 

The  route  over  which  it  was  agreed  to  conduct  us  was  the  one  I  pre- 
ferred and  one  but  rarely  taken,  that  by  way  of  the  "  long  desert,'* 
which  rises  east  of  the  Wady  Arabah,  through  a  magnificent  moun- 
tain range  running  as  near  as  can  be  parallel  with  the  Arabah.  It  is 
known  as  Mount  Seir.  Our  departure  from  Akabah  was  made  March 
21,  1882.     It  was  a  never-to-be-forgotten  event. 

The  camels  being  loaded,  and  their  legs  released  from  the  fastenings 
used  to  keep  them  from  straying  away,  the  caravan  took  up  its  march. 
The  motley  crowd  yelled,  the  sheikh  became  excited,  while  his  gor- 
geous robes  flew  about ;  the  rich  and  i30or,  sick  and  blind,  halt  and 
lame,  young  and  old,  slaves  and  free,  all  came  to  add  to  the  confusion 
of  the  separation.  The  contract  was  signed ;  the  camels  laden  with 
hen-coops  and  water-casks  and  other  paraphernalia,  arose  in  the  air  and 
encouraged  us  to  go  on.  The  sand  flew  in  our  eyes  ;  the  palms  waved 
their  adieus  ;  the  wind  howled  upon  us  from  the  sea ;  and  the  flies  bit 
us  and  hung  fast  to  our  clothing  as  we  went  along.  "We  passed  the 
shouting  crowd  of  disconsolate  beggars  who  wrestled  for  the  backsheesh 
which  we  threw  to  them.  We  were  now  in  the  hands  of  a  turbulent, 
lazy  tribe.  Their  gestures  are  graceful,  their  smiles  are  pleasant,  but 
they  are  as  useless  a  set  of  men  as  ever  walked  the  earth.  Wady  Ara- 
bah was  traversed  for  about  two  hours,  and  then  we  turned  suddenly 
eastward  and  entered  Wady  El  Ithim.  After  climbing  its  rocky  mouth 
for  about  two  hours,  we  came  to  a  great  wall,  which  had  been  con- 
structed evidently  as  a  barricade,  reaching  completely  across  the  wady. 
It  had  been  broken  into,  however,  of  late  years. 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  SEIR.  69 

A  long  rise  followed  this  before  the  mountain  caravan  route  was 
reached.  Then  we  again  turned  our  faces  northward.  Most  uninviting 
to  us  were  these  desert  highways.  Though  always  lined  with  moun- 
tains whose  forms  are  picturesque,  they  are  bleak,  and  barren  of  all 
that  holds  life.  The  most  striking  feature  of  the  way  is  its  wildness, 
so  complete  that  the  road  is  almost  indistinguishable  from  the  wilder- 
ness through  which  it  passes.  Yet  we  were  upon  a  route  over  which 
for  over  four  thousand  years  caravans  between  Elath  and  Edom  had 
travelled. 

From  day  to  day,  as  we  plodded  northward,  we  came  to  narrow 
tracts  of  soil  which  had  evidently  been  cultivated.  Once,  in  a  cave,  I 
found  a  rude  plow,  such  as  I  had  seen  in  use  at  Egyptian  Heliopolis. 
Two  or  three  times  we  saw  small  oases.  At  Humeiyumeh  there  is  a 
subterranean  well,  with  stone-cut  steps  leading  down  to  an  excavated 
room  ten  feet  square,  in  one  corner  of  which  is  a  pool  five  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  two  feet  in  depth,  full  of  water.  Over  it  is  a  hole  in  the  rock 
through  which  the  light  is  admitted.  The  Bedouin  camel-dris^ers  carry 
skins  full  of  water  up  to  the  entrance  and  put  it  into  a  rocky  basin, 
whence  the  camels  drink.  It  is  a  pretty  sight,  indeed,  to  see  them  take 
the  water  and  to  see  their  playful  scrambling  with  each  other  for  their 
turn.  With  my  camera  I  caught  four  of  them,  with  their  heads  close 
together,  drinking  at  one  time.  After  they  had  done  they  playfully 
wiped  their  noses  against  the  necks  of  their  companions,  whom  they 
had  crowded  out,  paying  no  attention  to  the  rules  of  the  doctrine  of  the 
"  survival  of  the  fittest,"  unless  a  jerk  at  their  halters  assured  them 
that  they  were  not  the  fittest. 

Each  hour  we  seemed  to  be  rising  more  rapidly;  the  air  grew 
clearer ;  the  flies  left  us,  and  once  in  awhile  we  came  to  small  patches 
of  soil  which  had  apparently  been  cultivated.  The  most  curious  feat- 
ure of  the  prospect  on  the  right  is  the  rock  masses  which  rise  up 
from  the  desert  bottom,  like  islands  in  an  archipelago,  and  at  long 
distances  from  one  another.  These  isolated  rocks  are  utilized  by  the 
Bedouin  as  homes.  Being  of  sandstone  they  are  easily  hollowed  out, 
for  nature  has  partly  assisted.  They,  indeed,  make  very  comfortable 
houses,  inasmuch  as  very  little  shelter  is  needed  in  this  warm  and  dry 
country.  They  are  inhabited  by  the  Fellahin,  or  farmers,  who  culti- 
vate the  scanty  soil.  The  interiors  vary  in  size  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
feet  square,  are  sometimes  plastered,  and  the  doors  are  partly  block- 


70 


IJ!^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS, 


aded  by  stone.     Others  are  open  to  the  air  and  light,  and  are  invaria- 
bly shared  with  the  flocks. 

Another  g-roup  of  these  pictured  and  striped  rocks  had  in  front  of 
it  a  patch  of  green  grass.  On  one  side,  and  away  beyond  is  a  splendid 
amphitheatre,  whose  beauties  attracted  us  the  whole  day  long.  The 
rocks  are  decorated  with  brown,  yellow,  blue,  grayish-brown,  and  pur- 
ple, in  diagonal  strata  or  streaks.  There  are  also  formations  w^hich 
seem  like  iron  melted  and  bubbled  by  heat,  then  suddenly  cooled; 
purple  and  black  and  red  in  color. 

In  the  far  distance,  on  the  right,  are  great  ranges  of  mountains 
which  line  the  wady,  here  some  three  miles  wide.     The  greater  peaks 

are  always  in  sight.  All  about 
are  sand-hills  of  white  and  red. 
One  rock  was  curiously  made 
up  of  a  concrete  mass  of  mate- 
rial, part  of  which  seems  to 
have  been  carved  by  the  hand 
of  man.  It  certainly  must  have 
been  mixed  by  some  great  con- 
vulsion of  nature  at  a  time  far 
beyond  the  memory  of  any- 
body now  living,  or  before  the 
records  of  history  began.  It 
was  striped,  spotted,  waved, 
and  streaked  yellow,  brown, 
lilac,  and  red,  and  made  up  of  flint,  quartz,  and  sandstone  bowlders, 
fragments  of  pebbles,  of  granite,  chiselled  and  engraved ;  in  intaglio, 
bass-relief,  worn,  wasted,  washed,  and  moulded  into  a  splendid  concrete. 
Now  came  a  great  desert  expanse,  with  only  an  occasional  upheaval 
of  sandstone  to  break  its  monotony.  The  Rock  of  El  Guerrah  in  this 
expanse  is  a  most  singular  formation.  There  is  no  other  elevation 
within  several  miles  of  it.  It  seems  like  a  rocky  island  in  the  sea, 
bearing  upon  its  summit  an  old  fortress,  about  which  our  attendants 
could  tell  us  nothing.  Each  day  now  we  reached  a  higher  elevation. 
On  the  third  morning  we  seemed  to  be  in  a  vast  amjihitheatre,  three 
sides  of  which  were  surrounded  by  magnificent  peaks  of  strangely 
varied  forms  and  colors.  Red,  brown,  yellow,  blue,  purple,  gray,  and 
marl  green  were  the  prevailing  tints,  running  in  diagonal  streaks  and 


A  Nawami. 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  SEIB.  71 

strata  as  amazing  as  they  were  beautiful.  All  the  expectations  aroused 
by  descriptions  I  had  read  of  wondrous  coloring  among  the  mountains 
of  Edom  were  surpassed.  Here,  amid  all  this  beauty,  a  fight  arose 
among  our  camel-drivers,  in  which  our  conducting  sheikh  became 
involved.  Quick  as  a  flash  are  these  Arabs!  Their  striped  abbahs 
were  thrown  upon  the  ground ;  cutlasses,  swords,  and  blunderbusses— 
a  display  more  curious  than  that  in  any  pawnbroker's  window — were 
drawn,  and  the  battle  began  right  and  left,  a  hand-to-hand  and  wordy 
conflict.  Not  much  blood  was  drawn.  There  never  is  in  an  Arab  fight. 
About  the  time  one  looks  for  casualties,  each  combatant  is  seized  by 
the  lookers-on  and  "  saved  from  certain  death."  Then  the  Sheikh  ap- 
i:)ears  and  declares  that  "  it  is  a  shame  to  be  seen  fighting  before  Chris- 
tians," and  that  he  "  would  rather  lose  his  beard  than  look  upon  such 
a  sight  again." 

That  same  night  I  took  measures  with  Hedayah  to  execute  a  scheme 
partly  planned  in  Cairo.  It  was  to  send  a  scout  ahead,  to  reach  Petra 
if  x^ossible  some  thirty-six  hours  before  we  could.  If  there  was  danger 
on  the  way,  he  was  to  return  quickly  and  warn  us.  His  capture  we 
need  not  fear,  for  we  would  try  to  send  a  man  who  was  sahib  (friendly) 
to  the  natives.  If  he  reported  no  danger,  we  were  to  proceed  within 
a  mile  or  two  of  Eljy,  the  Bedouin  village  near  Petra,  and  then,  leav- 
ing the  caravan  road,  rough  it  across  the  country  and  try  to  get  into 
Petra  unseen  and  unheard.  Among  our  attendants  secured  at  Akabah 
was  a  giant  Nubian.  He  had  great  scars  down  each  cheek,  and  a  row 
of  upper  tusks  which  might  have  driven  me  away  from  him  with  fear, 
had  they  not  been  balanced  by  a  merry  twinkle  which  came  continu- 
ally from  his  great,  staring,  black  eyes.  To  him  about  midnight  was 
given  our  commission.  His  instructions  were  to  "  run  "  as  do  the  post- 
boys in  Nubia,  and  to  reach  Eljy  early  the  next  afternoon.  Money  was 
given  him  to  buy  sheep,  with  which  he  was  to  regale  and  cajole  the 
good  and  watchful  people  of  Eljy.  Onions  and  tobacco  were  supplied 
him  also  for  distribution  to  any  one  who  might  give  him  trouble. 

Our  envoy  was  to  make  the  most  of  the  news  of  the  war  with  Arabi 
Pasha,  then  brewing,  and  to  exert  every  effort  in  his  power  to  create 
such  an  excitement  in  the  town  that  all  the  fellahin  in  the  neighbor- 
hood would  get  word  and  flock  in  to  see  and  hear  him.  Thus  the  coast 
would  be  made  clear  for  us  when  it  was  time  to  sneak  by.  As  we 
travelled  along  the  Mount  Seir  spur,  he  could  see  us  at  least  a  day 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  8EIB.  73 

before  we  could  him,  and  if  there  was  danger  he  was  to  signal  us  when 
we  approached.  If  all  was  safe  he  was  to  go  on  with  the  good  work 
and  not  trouble  himself  about  us,  until  we  had  passed.  Shaking  his 
bra^vny  hand,  I  assured  him  of  my  confidence,  bade  him  good-by,  and 
he  departed.  I  then  lay  down  to  dream  of  the  fable  of  the  "  Fox  and 
the  Turkeys." 

On  the  fourth  day,  at  the  moment  of  a  sunset  of  which  the  splendor 
was  in  harmony  with  the  strange  grandeur  of  the  surrounding  scenery, 
a  shower  drove  us  into  a  naivami  or  rock-house.  We  were  then  near- 
ing  Petra,  and  could  make  out  the  majestic  peaks  of  Mount  Hor,  two 
days"  journey  beyond. 

Far  down  in  the  valley  we  saw  a  ruined  village.  We  left  the  "  reg- 
ular "  route  to  visit  a  spot  "  holy  "  to  the  Mussulmen,  who  were  with 
us,  which  they  called  Ain  El  Dalageh.  Here  we  found  one  of  those 
rare  bits  of  pleasure  in  the  desert,  a  tumbling  cascade,  winding  pret- 
tily through  the  grass  like  a  veritable  New  Hampshire  mountain- 
stream.  We  halted  and  refreshed  ourselves,  as  well  as  our  camels,  with 
cold  water.  This  well  is  called  by  the  Mohammedans  the  "Well  of 
Moses,"  and  is  believed  by  them  to  be  the  place  where,  in  obedience 
to  the  command  of  God,  Moses  struck  the  rock,  in  order  to  bring  forth 
water  for  the  murmuring  children  of  Israel. 

Close  by  we  also  saw  a  small  Bedouin  cemetery — the  saddest  look- 
ing one  I  ever  saw.  It  was  made  up  of  stone  semi-circles,  with  graves 
within  them.  Occasionally  there  were  gravestones  with  Arabic  letters 
upon  them.  The  traveller  is  seen  at  a  great  distance  by  these  moun- 
taineers, so  it  was  not  strange  that  some  of  them  made  us  a  visit  be- 
fore our  departure  from  this  delightful  resting-place  in  their  territory. 
They  did  not  come  to  "  prevent  our  getting  into  Petra,"  as  we  then 
feared  even  the  breezes  might  conspire  to  do ;  but  to  offer  us  some 
curious  bowlders  which,  they  said,  were  "  full  of  diamonds."  A  liberal 
purchase  was  made,  but  the  investment  was  not  a  good  one.  All  we 
found  within  these  jewel  cases  of  nature  was  a  collection  of  various 
salts  and  crystals,  more  curious  than  valuable.  Two  of  the  men  were 
merchants  in  hedan  or  ibex  heads,  and  their  entire  stock  was  pur- 
chased. 

A  dignified  sheikh  rode  up  on  horseback,  with  an  attendant  on  foot 
following  him.  The  chief  carried  a  fine  lance  with  a  bamboo  handle 
and  a  twelve-inch  Damascus  blade.     Deuteronomy  xxiii.  7,  says :  "  Thou 


74 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


Peddling  Ibex  Heads. 


shalt  not  abhor  the  Edomite,  for  he  is  thy  brother,"  so  I  offered  my 
hand  to  this  silent  dig-nitary,  and  professed  my  friendship  for  him  as 
we  started  back  to  where  our  camels  awaited  us  on  "  the  highway." 
'    That  night  our  tents  were  pitched  near  a  Bedouin  village.     The 
census  value  of  such  places  is  usually  estimated  by  the  government 

tax-gatherer  upon  the  number  of 
sheep  and  goats,  and  not  according 
to  the  number  of  inhabitants.  Here 
the  flocks  aggregated  over  fifteen 
hundred.  The  men  and  women  were 
all  amiable  toward  us,  but  their  chil- 
dren and  the  dogs  eyed  us  suspic- 
iously, never  before  having  looked 
upon  the  face  of  the  white  man.  The 
shelter  of  their  homes  is  only  a  black 
or  striped  screen  of  coarsely  woven 
camel's-hair,  placed  to  give  the  best 
protection  from  the  wind.  There  sleep  the  populace  in  close  friend- 
ship with  their  flocks,  and,  as  a  rule,  the  lambs  are  given  the  better 
lilace  rather  than  the  children.  The  women  wear  the  face  veil  and  the 
usual  array  of  trinkets  and  decorations. 

These  people  were  evidently  not  from  Petra,  but  had  come  in  from 
the  desert  for  water  and  pasture.  But  after  we  left  them  we  suspected 
almost  every  rock,  lest  some  one  should  leap  from  behind  it  and  dis- 
pute our  way. 

"  Who  will  bring  me  into  the  strong  city  ?  Who  will  lead  me  into 
Edom  ?  Through  God  we  shall  do  valiantly,  for  He  it  is  that  shall 
tread  down  our  enemies."  Psalm  Ix.  The  traveller  toward  Petra  will 
find  it  necessary  to  have  some  of  David's  confidence  should  he  make  up 
his  mind  to  try  and  see  Petra  in  "  the  short  way,"  for  each  mile  seems 
to  bring  new  difliculties.  He  is  well  repaid,  however,  for  all  his 
trouble  should  he  be  so  fortunate  as  to  reach  the  spur  of  the  moun- 
tain which  leads  him  around  to  the  eastern  entrance  of  Petra.  At 
sunrise,  a  panoramic  view  of  this  region  was  taken,  with  an  Arab 
sheikh  seated,  overlooking  one  of  the  vast  gorges  so  numerous  in 
this  country.  In  that  gorge  the  city  of  Petra  is  located.  It  was 
nearly  a  day's  travel  away.  Far  beyond  its  further  mouth  or  entrance 
is  the  wide  wilderness  of  Wady  Arabah.    Beyond  that,  again,  Southern 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  SEIB. 


75 


Palestine,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Beersheba  and  Hebron,  is  seen. 
Wady  Mousa — the  valley  of  Petra — the  climax  of  the  Mount  Seir  re- 
g-ion,  is  before  us.  The  rising  sun  touches  only  the  highest  peaks 
They  are  located  at  the  southern  end  of  the  chain  of  "  rocks "  which 
belongs  to  the  Petra  combination.  On  the  left  arises  a  great  light- 
colored  mount,  tapering  toward  the  top,  as  though  covered  with  the 
ruins  of  some  ancient  city,  and  surmounted  by  a  mosque  of  a  hundred 
domes.  To  the  right  is  the  broad  and  deep  ravine,  the  "  red  rocks " 
splendidly  outlined  on  each  side,  with  all  but  their  very  tips  in  the 
shade,  the  sun  not  yet  having  reached  them.     Even  the  sea  beyond  and 


A  Bedouin  Family. 


the  vineyards  of  Gaza  may  be  seen  for  miles  of  their  length.  In  all 
directions  splendid  pictures  rise  before  us,  like  panoramas  of  so  many 
cities. 

From  the  same  spur,  but  further  northward  and  eastward,  another 
panoramic  view  was  taken.  The  deep  ravine  or  gorge  just  described 
was  on  our  left,  and  the  view  exhibited  several  smaller  gorges,  all  now 
less  dark  and  dreary  because  of  the  higher  sun.  Their  great  gates 
seemed  to  be  open,  and,  instead  of  looking  across  their  ends,  we  could 
look  further  into  them  and  over  them.  The  great  rocks  were  of  the 
hardest  flint,  and  the  pathway  was  covered  with  their  debris.  On  our 
extreme  right  was  a  light-colored,  noble  peak,  which  stands  as  a  near 
neighbor  to- Mount  Hor.  In  the  valley,  at  our  feet,  the  most  terrible 
desolation,  such  as  was  predicted  by  prophecy.     Here  the  visitor  hears 


•6 


Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


only  the  sounds  of  birds,  for  there  is  no  sign  of  anything-  else  but 
the  members  of  his  caravan.  Evidences  of  the  absolute  fulfilment  of 
prophecy  are  here :  "  Edom  shall  be  a  desolation ;  every  one  that  goeth 
by  it  shall  be  astonished."  Jeremiah  xlix.  17.  "  And  they  shall  know 
my  vengeance,  saith  the  Lord."    Ezekiel  xxv.  14. 

All  around  and  about  are  uncultivated  fields  and  masses  of  tumbled 


Ruins  of  a  Village. 


Ancient  Edom,  and  the  Cleft  of  Petra. 


rocks,  suggesting  cities  destroyed. 

All  is  "  desolation "  in  the  truest 

sense. 
Each  successive  view  revealed  more  and  more  the  effect  of  the  sun- 
light upon  this  wondrous  region.  What  two  hours  ago  was  a  shadowed 
valley  of  desolation  and  wilderness,  of  sleeping  mounds  and  mountains, 
now  became  beautiful  in  form  and  color,  revealed  by  the  sunlight. 
Away  down  in  the  valley,  amid  the  green  fields  which  now  become 
more  and  more  plentiful,  was  seen  a  ruined  village,  of  an  age  which 
history  cannot  guess  at.  Deserted  and  unthought  of,  here  it  has  ex- 
isted from  century  to  century.  Neither  man  nor  the  elements  care  for 
it  now. 


FROM  MOUNT  SINAI  TO  MOUNT  8EIR.  77 

A  short  distance  northward  and  eastward,  Mount  Hor,  now  fully 
lig-hted  by  the  sun,  was  seen  with  head  uplifted  in  the  distance,  more 
and  more  conspicuously,  and  the  proper  entrance  into  Petra,  the  gorge 
of  the  Sik,  grew  more  distinct.  Between  us  and  the  Holy  Mountain, 
red  and  yellow  chains  of  peaks  were  presented  in  gorgeous  splendor. 
Eicli  clusters  of  them,  of  varied  colors  and  shapes,  were  observable  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  sun  had  also  lifted  up  from  the  shadows 
the  ruins  of  the  old  city,  and  there  were  some  green  spots  which  were 
Bedouin  farms.  The  sunshine  also  made  plain  the  numberless  rock- 
cities  and  half  revealed  their  mysteries.  The  green  sward,  the  florid 
rocks,  the  encrusted  domes  of  light  and  shade  and  flame,  the  awful  still- 
ness of  "  desolation,"  predicted  by  Scripture,  and  the  sublimity  of  all 
nature — were  awfully  impressive.  As  we  proceeded,  the  sun  developed 
the  rich  coloring  more  and  more  and  drove  the  shadows  to  one  side. 
Again  the  ruler  of  the  day  lifted  up  a  double  line  of  peaks  from  Ara- 
bah's  plain,  like  eruptions  on  the  skin,  and  the  Dead  Sea  put  in  an  ap- 
pearance, shining  like  a  mirror  of  silver  in  the  far  distance. 

Now  and  then  the  long  silvery  line  of  the  Mediterranean  could  be 
discerned.  It  was  the  most  wonderful  expanse  I  thought  I  had  ever 
seen.  Then  we  descended  for  a  while  and  the  grand  prospect  was 
hidden  by  the  rocks  at  our  side. 

On  Saturday,  March  25th,  the  fifth  day  from  Akabah,  we  arose  at  four 
o'clock.  We  ate  a  hasty  breakfast  by  the  light  of  our  camp-fire  of  turfa- 
bushes,  and  began  the  travel  of  the  day.  We  were  within  eight  hours 
of  Petra.  If  we  arrived  by  sunrise  undisturbed  at  the  summit  of  a 
mountain  spur  just  before  us,  we  should  catch  a  glimpse  of  Wady 
Mousa— the  valley  in  which  Petra  lies.  A  sharp  frost  had  visited  us, 
and  the  tiny  stream  near  our  camp  was  frozen  over.  Command  was 
given  that  no  one  should  speak  loudly,  and  scouts  were  sent  ahead  to 
guard  against  surprise  or  attack.  Our  hearts  throbbed  with  excite- 
ment. I  felt  as  when,  in  other  days,  I  crept  cautiously  along  in  the 
night  with  my  regiment,  rifle  in  hand,  suspecting  every  rock  and  stone, 
and  expecting  each  moment  to  meet  the  foe.  ' 

Our  caravan  was  halted.  Gathered  close  to  our  brave  dragoman,  our 
quartette  proceeded  to  gain  the  highest  point  ahead.  What  should  we 
meet  beyond  ?  A  hard  scramble  for  an  hour  or  more  over  a  flinty  road, 
brought  us  to  this  point.  The  scene  which  lay  before  us  I  shall  never 
forget.     The  rising  sun  barely  tipped  the  higher  pqaks  with  crimson 


78  Ili  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

glow.  The  shadows  among  the  hills  were  still  thick  and  long  and 
wide,  and  I  seemed  to  be  looking  down  from  a  balloon  upon  a  wonder- 
ful panorama.  As  the  sun  rose,  a  great,  yawning  chasm  was  seen  split- 
ting in  twain  the  mountain  range  far  below  us,  and  creeping  away  to 
the  west — a  grim  black  scar.  It  was  the  Wady  Mousa !  Within  its 
gloomy  shade,  as  yet  untouched  by  the  morning  sun,  lay  Petra — the 
climax  of  Edom,  the  Idumaean  capital.  My  heart  leaped  with  joy  and 
excitement,  and  in  imagination  I  saw  ruined  cities  looming  up  before 
me,  more  and  more  clearly  defined  each  moment. 

Beyond  the  western  termination  of  the  gorge  a  fine  stretch  of  the 
Wady  Arabah  began  to  appear  in  light ;  and  behind  its  westerly 
ranges,  now  also  touched  by  the  glories  of  the  sunshine,  were  the  hills 
about  Hebron  and  the  Dead  Sea,  and  those  bordering  the  Mediterra- 
nean close  to  Gaza.  The  coloring  became  more  and  more  splendid, 
changing  each  moment  in  intensity  as  the  light  grew.  There,  in  the 
gloom  of  the  valley  was  a  long,  zigzag  line,  winding  like  a  river.  It 
moved.  Once  in  a  while  a  bit  of  light  would  touch  it,  and  then  it 
would  drop  into  the  shadow  again.  From  right  to  left  it  swayed  at  the 
will  of  its  leader ;  then  all  at  once  it  rose  high  in  air  as  though  to  greet 
the  God  of  Day,  and  the  mystery  was  explained.  It  was  an  immense 
flock  of  storks,  awakened  to  new  life  by  the  genial  sun. 

The  golden  hill-domes  were  growing  brighter  and  brighter,  and 
were  flushed  with  pink,  like  the  blush  on  a  peach.  The  great  rock  up- 
heavals, innumerable  and  of  wondrous  form,  seemed  like  the  billows 
of  the  sea.  But  "  Watchman,  what  of  the  night "?  "  (Isaiah  xxi.  11.) 
There  was  as  yet  no  sign  of  our  Nubian  scout  El  Wafi.  Had  our 
scheme  been  a  success  ?  Or  had  he  met  a  horrible  fate  which  we  soon 
must  share  ? 


CHAPTEE  IV. 

A  VISIT  TO  PETRA. 

Introduction. — Selecting  a  Dragoman. — A  Map  of  Petra. — Petra  Reached. — The  Arched 
Terrace. — The  Gorge  of  the  Sik. — A  First  Glimpse  of  the  City. — The  Kuzneh. — Six 
Wily  Chiefs  Surprised. — The  Amphitheatre. — A  Street  View. — The  Temple  of  the 
Urn  and  Arched  Terrace. — The  Corinthian  Structure. — The  Temple  with  Three 
Tiers  of  Columns. — The  Temple  with  Fluted  Columns. — A  Gorge  Explored.— A 
Rock  hewn  Pulpit. — Up  a  Rock-cut  Stairway. — Where  David  Sang. — The  Pyra- 
mids.— An  Altar  of  Baal. — El  Deir,  or  "The  Convent." — Mount  Hor. — Departure 
from  Petra. — Guesses  at  History. — The  Serpent  and  the  Lizard. —  "Hospitality." — 
Attacked  on  the  Way. 

"T  AM  glad  to  be  able  to  present  here,  by  way  of  introduction  to  my 
-*-  own  narrative,  some  notes  by  Thomas  W.  Ludlow,  Esq.,  the  learned 
archaeologist.  They  supply  us  with  valuable  information  collected  by 
him  concerning"  the  "  Rock  City  of  Edom,"  which  should  not  be  over- 
looked by  careful  students  of  the  Bible. 

"  Owing  to  the  difficulty  of  the  journey  and  the  inhospitable  and 
treacherous  disposition  of  the  natives,  graphically  described  by  Mr. 
Wilson,  few  Europeans  and  Americans  have  undertaken  with  success 
of  late  years  to  visit  Petra,  the  Hock  City  of  Seir;  hence  an  air  of 
mystery  hangs  over  the  place  and  adds  not  a  little  to  its  attraction.* 

"  Petra  is  identified  with  the  Hebrew  Selah,  *  a  rock,'  f  the  Amorite, 

*  The  artist  Gerome  gained  entrance  with  a  party  of  his  countrymen,  about  1870.  An  in- 
teresting and  amusing  sketch  of  theit  experiences  has  been  published  by  one  of  their  number — 
"  Le  Fayoum,  le  Sinai  et  Petra."  Par  Paul  Lenoir.  Paris,  1872,  The  American  artist,  Mr.  F. 
E.  Church,  visited  Petra  in  1868,  and  made  a  number  of  oil  studies  there,  from  which  he  painted 
his  picture  of  the  Kuzneh.  Mr.  Wilson  furnishes  the  following  list  of  English  and  American 
travellers,  besides  himself,  who  have  visited  Petra  with  parties  since  1860 : — W.  H.  Bartlett, 
about  1861;  Dean  Stanley,  1862;  Rev.  Henry  Formby,  about  1862;  Professor  E.  H.  Palmer, 
1870 ;  Dr.  James  Strong,  1874  ;  Miss  Sophie  M.  Palmer,  1882 ;  Lieutenant  Conder  succeeded  about 
in  getting  in,  it  is  believed,  in  1883.  The  Hon.  K.  Joy  Morris,  U.  S.  Minister  to  Turkey,  visited 
Petra ;  so  did  Messrs,  Loring,  Philbrick  and  friends  of  Boston,  but  the  dates  of  their  visits  are 
not  recalled.  The  last  record  of  an  attempted  visit  was  that  of  an  English  gentleman  and  friends, 
about  May,  1890.  The  party  was  seized  by  the  Bedouins  and  held  for  a  ransom  "  until  the  Eng- 
lish Consul  at  Jerusalem  sent  the  price  of  freedom." 

t  This  slight  sketch  of  the  history  of  Petra,  and  the  remarks  that  follow  upon  the  present 
condition  of  the  site,  are  based  particularly  upon  the  valuable  article  upon  Petra  by  the  Rev, 
James  Strong,  D,D.,  in  the  Cyclopaedia  of  Biblical,  Theological,  and  Ecclesiastical  Literature,  by 
the  Rev,  Drs,  M'CUntock  and  Strong  (Harpers,  1867-1881). 

The  map  is  from  surveys  made  by  Dr.  Strong  and  Mr,  Ward  in  1874,  and  is  engraved  from 


80  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

Edomite,  and  Moabite  strong-hold  (Judges  i.  oG ;  2  King's  xiv.  7 ;  Isaiah 
xvi.  1).  Diodorus  Siculus  (xix.,  94-98)  speaks  of  the  varied  fortunes  of 
the  two  expeditions  sent  against  the  place  by  Antig-onos,  whose  gen- 
eral, Athenaios,  was  very  roughly  handled  by  the  sturdy  Nabathseans, 
while  his  son,  Demetrios  Poliorketes,  was  content  later  to  lead  his 
army  back  from  their  wild  country  without  having  gained  any  appreci- 
able advantage.  Strabo  (Geog.,  xvi.,  663 ;  v.,  15,  ed.  Didot)  tells  us  of 
Petra  as  a  city  shut  in  by  rocks  in  the  midst  of  the  desert,  yet  supplied 
abundantly  with  water,  and  important  as  a  place  of  transit  for  Oriental 
productions.  Pliny,  too  (Hist.  Nat.,  vi.,  32,  3),  identifies  the  site  by  a 
definite  description.  The  town  was  deprived  of  what  independence 
remained  to  it  by  the  Eomans  under  A.  Cornelius  Palma,  in  the  time 
of  Trajan,  at  the  dawn  of  the  second  century,  A.D.  There  is  evidence 
that  it  received  some  of  Hadrian's  widespread  bounty,  and  that  it  was 
still  in  Roman  hands  in  the  day  of  Septimius  Severus,  a  century  later. 
It  figures  from  the  fourth  to  the  sixth  century  in  the  annals  of  the 
Christian  Church ;  but  from  the  time  of  the  Council  of  Jerusalem  in 
A.D.  536,  in  which  the  Bishop  of  Petra,  Theodoras,  took  part,  until  its 
discovery  by  the  distinguished  traveller,  Burckhardt,  in  1812,  the  old 
city  drops  entirely  out  of  sight.  The  busy  mart  must  have  been  de- 
stroyed by  some  incursion  of  the  wild  nomads  of  the  desert. 

"  It  is  not  necessary  to  anticipate  Mr.  Wilson's  picturesque  descrip- 
tion of  the  site  of  Petra  beneath  the  venerable  Mount  Hor  of  the 
Bible,*  and  of  the  scenes,  strange  to  Western  eyes,  through  which  the 
traveller  passes  to  get  there.  The  city  lay  in  a  narrow  valley,  sur- 
rounded by  precipitous  hills.  On  the  eastern  and  western  sides  the 
cliffs  rise  almost  perpendicular  to  the  height  of  six  or  seven  hundred 
feet.  On  the  north  and  south  the  natural  barriers  are  less  formidable, 
and  may  in  places  be  passed  by  camels.  Many  recesses,  or  small  lat- 
eral valleys,  open  into  the  main  valley.  The  circuit  of  the  entire  de- 
pression, including  these  lateral  valleys,  is  about  four  miles. 

"  The  central  portions  of  the  valley,  especially  on  the  banks  of  the 
little  river,  are  strewn  with  numerous  remains  of  ancient  buildings, 
which  were  constructed  of  masonry  in  the  ordinary  manner.     With 

the  original  draught.  It  is  of  peculiar  interest  as  being,  it  is  believed,  the  only  one  from  original 
surveys  since  that  of  Laborde,  published  in  1880  (Voyage  de  I'Arabie  Petrce.  Par  Leon  de  La- 
borde  et  Linant.     Paris,  1830). 

*  Numbers  xx.  21,  23 ;  xxxiii.  37. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETBA.  81 

one  or  two  exceptions,  little  survives  of  these  but  shapeless  ruins. 
There  are  traces  of  paved  streets,  fragments  of  columns  and  pedestals, 
and  rock-cut  foundations  in  the  greatest  plenty.  These  last  occupy 
not  only  the  bed  of  the  plain,  but  surrounding  eminences,  and  mark 
especially  private  dwellings,  which,  as  was  usual  in  antiquity,  appear 
to  have  been  of  slight  and  comparatively  rough  construction.  The 
chief  existing  memorials  of  the  Eoman  domination,  besides  a  few 
funeral  inscriptions,  are  the  theatre  hewn  from  the  rock,  and  the  great 
building  known  as  the  Kasr  Pharoun,  still  inclosed  by  its  stately  walls, 
with  a  noble  arched  entrance  and  an  impressive  colonnade.  These 
monuments  may  probably  be  referred  to  the  time  of  Hadrian. 

"  But  the  chief  attraction  of  Petra  to  the  modern  student  lies  in  the 
rock-cut  fagades,  chambers,  and  stairways  with  which  the  cliff  circuit 
of  the  city  is  almost  surrounded,  and  which  occupy  the  sides  of  the 
lateral  valleys  and  other  rock  faces  wherever  accessible.  Many  of 
these  facades,  preceding  one  or  more  plain,  rectangular  chambers,  with 
or  without  roughly  hewn  interior  columns  and  niches  or  recesses,  are 
very  rich  and  elaborate.  The  most  elaborate  are  as  late  as  Hadrian's 
day,  or  later.  There  is  hardly  room  for  doubt  that  all  these  rock-hewn 
chambers  were  designed  as  tombs,  after  the  fashion  practised  by  the 
Phoenicians,  who  in  turn  probably  adopted  the  custom  from  the  people 
of  Asia  Minor,  to  whom  are  due  such  remarkable  creations  as  the 
necropoleis  of  Lycian  Myra  and  of  Phrygian  cliffs — all  traceable,  per- 
haps, to  the  mysterious  Hittite  heritage.* 

"  However,  although  cut  from  the  rock  for  supulchres,  these  Petrsean 
monuments  may  well  have  served  later  the  ends  of  the  living  as  tem- 
ples or  as  dwellings.  An  inscription  in  the  so-called  Deir,  one  of  the 
very  scanty  inscribed  memorials  remaining  of  old  Petra,  seems  to  in- 
dicate that  this  edifice  was  at  one  time  dedicated  to  the  god  Mithras ; 

*Many  facts  and  details  are  noticeable  which  point  to  more  or  less  complete  Phoenician 
influence  at  Petra.  Without  insisting  upon  this  line  of  inquiry,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  the 
Petraean  system  of  rock  tombs  with  ornate  fronts  is  thoroughly  Phoenician,  and  not  dissimilar  in 
general  character  to  that  exemplified  in  such  Phoenician  necropoleis  as  Amrith.  A  parallel  to  the 
pseudo-classical  architectural  treatment  of  Petraean  tombs  is  found  at  Nea  Paphos,  in  Cyprus, 
where  the  burial  chambers  surround  courts  with  rude  Doric  colonnades  cut  in  the  rock.  There 
are  examples  at  Petra  of  a  chiselled  ornament  in  the  form  of  flights  of  steps  rising  and  descending. 
This  ornament  was  derived  from  the  Assyrian  form  of  battlements,  and  is  clearly  of  Assyrian 
origin.  It  is  common  on  Phoenician  monuments,  as  on  the  Amrith  rock  tombs,  and  on  many 
minor  antiquities  (r/.  Perrot  et  Chipiez :  Histoire  de  I'Art  dans  I'Antiquite,  iii.,  p.  131). 
Again,  the  slowly  tapering  pyramidal  funeral  steles  referred  to  by  Mr.  Wilson  and  by  other 
travellers,  are  Phoenician. 

6 


82  Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

and  it  is  certain,  from  surviving  signs,  that  many  of  the  chief  cliff 
chambers  were  consecrated  as  Christian  churches. 

"  The  most  noteworthy  of  the  rock  facades  of  Petra  are  late  in  date, 
florid  in  their  pseudo-Roman  style,  and  more  lavish  and  extravagant 
than  pure  in  design.  Yet  their  effect  is  most  surprising.  This  is  due 
to  many  causes,  not  a  little  to  the  wonderful  natural  coloring  of  the 
soft  sandstone  from  which  they  are  chiselled,  ranging,  as  this  does, 
from  pure  saffron-yellow  through  the  most  brilliant  red,  purple,  and 
blue,  with  their  gradations,  and  relieved  by  plain  black  and  white. 
The  elaborate  architectural  forms,  too,  are  in  the  most  striking  contrast 
with  the  rugged  rock  which  frames  them,  and  with  the  vast  and  weird 
expanse  of  desert  through  which  the  visitor  must  pass  for  days  be- 
fore reaching  Petra.  Mr.  Wilson's  contagious  enthusiasm  for  this  un- 
paralleled jewel-casket  of  antiquity  is  thus  amply  justified.*  " 

There  are  two  mouldering  cities  of  past  ages,  widely  different  from 
each  other,  and  each,  in  its  way,  unlike  any  other — Venice,  the  queenly 
city  of  lagoons  and  bridges,  and  Petra,  the  city  of  stupendous  natur- 
al fortifications  and  rock-hewn  architecture.  With  the  Queen  of  the 
Adriatic  the  world  is  familiar;  but  only  a  few  travellers  have  seen 
Petra,  and  these  have  vouchsafed  us  but  little  information  concerning 
it.  I  had  dreamed  amid  the  dimmed  glories  of  Venice  ;  I  had  longed 
to  enter  the  portals  of  Petra,  the  fallen  capital  of  the  old  !N'abath8eans,t 
and  of  Trajan's  province  of  Arabia  Petrsea. 

The  site  of  Petra  lies  half-way  between  the  Gulf  of  Akabah  and  the 
Dead  Sea,  about  seventy  miles,  as  the  vulture  flies,  from  each.  Its 
wonderful  ruins  are  continually  guarded  by  a  tribe  of  Bedouin  Arabs, 
who  live  in  the  village  of  Eljy,  two  miles  northeast.  They  keep  care- 
ful watch,  because  they  believe  that  somewhere  in  the  old  town  great 
treasures  are  hidden,  and  that  it  is  the  object  of  every  white  traveller 
who  visits  Petra  to  discover  and  carry  away  the  riches  of  antiquity. 
All  who  have  left  record  of  their  visit  to  Petra  tell  of  the  difficulties 
encountered  with  these  suspicious  Bedouins.  Many  a  would-be  visitor 
has  been  driven  back  from  the  very  gates,  robbed  and  insulted,  without 

♦  We  regret  not  to  have  had  access  to  Hittorff  s  Momoire  sur  Pompei  et  Petra.     Paris,  1876. 

t  Professor  John  Campbell,  author  of  The  Hittites  :  Their  Inscriptions  and  their  History, 
Toronto,  1890,  in  a  letter  to  me  (July,  1890)  says  :  "  All  the  kings  that  reigned  in  Edom  were  Hit- 
tites. Jakthiel,  the  name  given  to  Edom  by  Amaziah,  was  originally  Jekuthiel,  the  name  of  the 
father  of  Zanoah  the  Kenite.  Edom  must  early  have  fallen  into  Amorite  hands.  Yet  the  Kenite 
built  his  home  in  the  rock  in  the  time  of  Balaam." 


A  VISIT  TO  PETRA.  83 

so  mucli  as  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Petra  to  compensate  him  for  ten  days 
of  hard  desert  travel.  When,  on  the  Nile,  I  revealed  my  design  to 
see  Petra,  various  drag-omen  and  tourists  declared  that  it  was  "  impos- 
sible to  enter  the  place,"  and  that  "  no  white  person  had  done  so  for 
over  eight  years."  This  did  not  shake  my  determination  to  make 
the  effort,  at  least,  to  "  take  Petra."  I  might  be  driven  back  disap- 
pointed. I  might  succeed  in  securing  the  material  and  the  informa- 
tion I  coveted.  So,  at  Cairo,  I  made  preparations  to  carry  out  plans 
formed  at  home. 

The  first  step  was  to  secure  a  dragoman.  I  knew  of  only  one  with 
whom  I  felt  willing  to  risk  my  life.  He  had  guided  through  the  des- 
ert General  George  B.  McClellan,  Dr.  Charles  S.  Kobinson,  Professor 
Charles  M.  Mead,  and  Dr.  Henry  Clay  Trumbull,  the  author  of  "  Ka- 
desh  Bamea."  He  had  been  well  spoken  of  by  Mr.  Charles  Dudley 
Warner  in  his  "In  the  Levant."  He  was  engaged  to  accompany  me 
first  to  Sinai  and  the  Wilderness.  His  name,  Mohammed  Achmed  Ef- 
fendi  Hedaiyah,  indicated,  among  other  things,  that  he  was  a  good  Mus- 
sulman, "  an  educated  man,"  as  he  put  it,  of  good  social  standing,  able 
to  read  and  write,  and  of  partly  Moorish  extraction.  Never  shall  I  for- 
get our  first  consultation.  The  difiiculties  and  dangers  of  what  I  pro- 
posed were  mapped  but  for  me  with  true  Arabic  eloquence.  Seeing 
that  I  did  not  shrink,  my  new-made  acquaintance  then  depicted  the 
horrors  which  those  who  had  made  the  attempt  to  get  into  Petra  were 
obliged  to  undergo.  He  failed  to  move  me  from  my  determination. 
"  Then,"  said  he,  pushing  his  red  tarboush  nervously  back  upon  his 
head  and  rolling  his  eyes  up  toward  heaven,  "I  see  you  are  an  old 
traveller  and  an  educated  gentleman,  and  I  will  go  with  you.  I  am  an 
educated  man ;  I  have  been  twenty-five  years  a  dragoman ;  I  have  been 
three  times  to  Petra ;  no  white  man  has  been  there  for  eight  years.  I 
know  Salim,  the  Sheikh  of  Petra ;  once  he  was  brought  to  Hebron  and 
put  in  prison  for  stealing  from  travellers.  I  found  him  there  and  went 
security  for  his  good  behavior,  and  he  was  released.  He  is  as  my 
brother.  You  shall  see  Petra,  and  perhaps  I  can  get  you  in  the  short 
way.  No  other  dragoman  could  take  you.  I  would  only  go  with  an 
educated  gentleman,  an  old  traveller,  or  a  very  religious  man.  I  am 
all  these  myself.  My  business  is  good,  but  I  love  to  act  as  dragoman 
better  than  I  love  selling  silk  or  eating — when  I  can  go  with  an  edu- 
cated gentleman." 


84 


Ji\^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


Four  months  of  companionship  with  the  worthy  Achmed  taught  me 
that  none  too  much  had  been  said  in  his  praise.  He  knew  his  business 
exactly.  He  proved  truthful,  trustworthy,  generous,  manly,  and  brave. 
I  have  seen  him  rush  at  a  fellah  who  was  pointing  his  musket  at  him, 
wrench  the  weapon  away,  and  fling  it  on  the  stones  at  his  feet.  I  have 
seen  him  hasten  with  a  long  stride  peculiarly  his  own  into  the  midst 
of  a  fight  between  our  attendants,  jerk  their  swords  away,  and  send 
the  combatants  sprawling  upon  the  ground.  I  have  seen  him,  when 
we  were  surrounded,  kneel  first  upon  the  sand  and  "  commit  the  gentle- 
men to  the  keeping  of  Allah,"  and  then  go  out  with  his  life  in  his  hand 
to  meet  insult  and  injury  in  our  behalf.     I  have  seen  him,  too,  when 


we  had  all  been  taken  prisoners,  act  with  the  greatest  forbearance  and 
wisdom,  knowing  full  well  that  our  safety  depended  upon  his  patience. 
He  understood  stooping  to  conquer.  Achmed  was  as  bright  as  any 
Yankee,  as  politic  as  a  Congressman.  He  was  seldom  at  a  loss,  even 
under  the  most  trying  circumstances.  A  hint  that  the  accomplishment 
of  any  task  would  add  to  his  fame  always  secured  his  best  efforts,  which 
would  be  supplemented  by  the  request :  "  Please  mention  in  your  book 
that  Hedaiyah  Effendi's  address  is  No.  8  Silk  Bazar,  Alexandria." 
Mounted  on  his  camel,  Achmed  Hedaiyah  was  even  noble-looking — nor 
did  his  character  belie  his  appearance.  Side  by  side,  on  camel,  on 
horse,  and  on  foot,  we  travelled  for  four  months,  happy  and  free. 

On  the  appointed  day  we  set  out  for  Petra,  pondering  over  the 
scanty  details  the  books  could  give  us  of  a  city  which  once  received 
the  caravans  of  Arabia,  India,  and  Persia,  and  sent  their  rich  stores  on 


A   VISIT  TO  PETBA.  85 

to  Egypt,  Syria,  Palestine,  and  Greece — a  city  whose  king,  during  the 
last  melancholy  tragedies  of  Jewish  independence,  marched  out  at 
the  head  of  fifty  thousand  men,  entered  Jerusalem,  and  besieged  the 
Temple  until  commanded  by  Eome  to  desist.*  Our  curiosity  was 
aroused  by  the  image  of  a  historic  site  which  had  been  lost  to  civiliza- 
tion for  nearly  a  thousand  years,  and  by  anticipations  of  its  unique 
edifices.  There  was  just  enough  peril  about  our  enterprise  to  make  it 
enchanting.  My  companions  (three)  were  all  Americans.  Our  route 
was  by  rail  from  Cairo  to  Suez,  and  from  there  is  described  in  the 
preceding  chapters. 

On  the  fifth  day  after  leaving  Akabah,  near  noon,  we  came  to  a 
siDring  called  'Ain  Daluga,  where  we  halted  for  lunch.  The  great 
cleft  of  AYady  Mousa  was  hidden  from  view ;  but  for  miles  we  could 
look  back  over  the  flinty  path  we  had  been  climbing  for  six  or  seven 
hours.  At  our  feet  was  a  magnificent  valley,  along  the  grassy  bot- 
tom of  which  we  could  see  a  winding  stream  lined  with  strips  of 
land  under  cultivation.  Suddenly  we  heard  shouting,  then  the  crash 
of  fire-arms.  Each  moment  we  expected  to  hear  the  thud  of  Bedouin 
bullets  against  the  rocks.  There  was  no  time  to  lose.  Our  camels 
were  quickly  arranged  side  by  side  to  form  a  barricade.  "We  speed- 
ily got  behind  them  and  awaited  events.  We  seemed  to  thirst  for 
Bedouin  blood — for  the  blood  of  Esau's  children.  But  no  enemy 
approached.  It  was  probably  only  the  festival  which  El  Wafi  had 
been  sent  to  organize.  After  all  we  had  not  been  seen.  "With  grateful 
hearts  we  quietly  slunk  down  toward  the  Gorge  of  the  Sik,  or  "VYady 
Mousa.  The  great,  shadow  had  disappeared  now,  and  the  sun  shone 
fairly  into  the  gorge,  giving  fine  efiect  to  the  blood-red  of  its  walls, 
and  bringing  out  strongly  the  lines  of  neighboring  peaks.  At  the 
Western  Gate,  pyramid-like,  stands  a  great  rock-sentinel,  grim  and  de- 
fiant.    It  seemed  to  bar  our  escape  in  front  from  a  Bedouin  pursuit. 

Fearing  to  approach  the  town  of  Eljy  too  closely — we  were  only 
two  miles  south  of  it — we  left  the  now  descending  roadway  and  crossed 
some  cultivated  fields,  coming,  at  the  foot  of  the  descent,  into  a  thick 
jungle  of  oleander  bushes.  Through  this  nms  the  noisy  little  river, 
the  Sik.  In  a  moment  more  we  had  crossed  it,  and  stood  in  Wady 
Mousa,  unseen,  unheard,  unopposed ! 

*  King  Aretas  of  the  Nabathaeans,  who  connived  with  Antipater  and  Hyrkanos  to  overthrow 
Aristobulus  II.,  King  of  the  Jews.     See  Dr.  Smith's  New -Testament  History,  p.  65. 


86 


IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS, 


Breaking  our  way  through  the  jungle  on  the  farther  side 
stream,  we  found  ourselves  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Necropolis  of 
A  group  of  tombs  on  our 
right,  tapering  toward  the 
top,  reminded  us  of  some  of 
those  in  the  Yalley  of  Je- 
hoshai3hat,  or  again,  of  the 
obelisk  pedestals  of  Egypt 
A  little  farther  on, 
on  the  left,  is  a 
double  structure, 
of  construction 
hard  to  under- 


stand. Though  not 
a  very  beautiful 
ruin,  it  is  a 


of  the 
Petra. 


well-preserved 
specimen  of  Petrsean 
architecture.     The  low- 
er story  displays  a  range  of 
Ionic  columns  which  lend  to 
it  an  air  of  Greece ;  while  the  up- 
per tier  of  the  facade  is  adorned 
with  a  series  of  pyramid-shaped 
members  suggestive  of  Egypt. 
This  variety,  singular  in  antiq- 
uity, may  be  attributed  to  the 
fancy  of  the  antique  nabobs  who 
caused  its  building — men  who 
borrowed  their  ideas  from  the 
foreign  lands  with  which  they  had  dealings.     Each  story  of  the  facade 
marks  a  curious  interior.     The  upper  one  has  a  large  recess  cut  in  the 


I.    Necropolis  and  River  Sik.     2.    Entrance  to  Petra. 
3.    Unfinished  Tenriple. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETRA,  87 

rear  wall,  with  smaller  ones  on  either  side,  and  graves  cut  in  them  all. 
The  lower  interior  is  supplied  on  three  of  its  sides  with  a  continuous 
stone  bench.  In  the  rear,  away  up  toward  the  ceiling,  are  two  loculi,  or 
recesses  for  sarcophagi. 

It  may  be  useful  to  remind  the  reader,  before  we  enter  Petra  proper, 
that  all  its  principal  structures,  be  they  tombs,  palaces,  or  temples,  are 
excavated  from  the  rock,  and  not  constructed  of  quarried  stone.  Yery 
rarely  are  ornaments  of  these  "  monolithic  edifices  "  found  detached, 
and  still  more  rarely  in  antiquity  were  blocks  inserted  or  let  into  any 
of  the  rock-hewn  architecture  of  Petra.  The  sides  of  the  mountains, 
which  form  a  natural  amphitheatre  of  nearly  four  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  with  walls  from  five  hundred  to  six  hundred  feet  high,  are 
cut  to  smooth  iDerpendicular  faces,  which  are  occupied  by  unbroken 
ranges  of  temples  and  of  homes  for  the  living  and  the  dead.  The  in- 
teriors behind  the  ornate  fronts  are  but  caves  squared  by  the  old  stone- 
cutter, and  are  lighted  only  by  their  doors.  While  the  bases  and  beet- 
ling sides  of  these  mountains  are  fashioned  into  architectural  forms 
that  are  as  enduring  as  the  eternal  hills  from  which  they  are  hewn, 
the  iDicturesque  summits  above  display  nature  in  her  wildest  and  most 
savage  garb. 

Continuing  our  advance,  we  followed  the  stream  a  few  rods,  and 
descending,  as  the  pass  narrowed,  the  entrance  of  the  frightful  chasm, 
seen  afar  off  at  sunrise,  was  reached  at  last.  ^Tiat  an  impregnable 
gateway !  Spanning  it  is  a  fine  buttressed  arch,  resting  upon  rock-cut 
foundations.  Beneath  this  a  little  stream  gurgles.  We  followed  it 
through  the  only  entrance — the  "  front  door  "  of  Petra.  Still  undis- 
covered we  had  passed  under  the  great  portal  now,  whether  triumphal 
arch,  as  poetry  calls  it,  or  simple  aqueduct — the  latter  the  more  prob- 
able interpretation  in  view  of  the  similar  bridges  found  higher  up 
among  the  mountain  clefts.  The  top  of  the  northern  wall  of  the  de- 
file was  once  inhabited.  Excavations,  bridges,  terraced  gardens,  and 
various  other  evidences  remain  upon  it  of  the  industry  and  artistic 
taste  of  a  wonderfully  persevering  people.  The  grotto  at  Posilippo 
opened  to  the  sky  could  not  present  the  grandeur  of  this  approach.  It 
is  difficult  to  conceive  anything  more  sublime. 

When  we  had  come  fairly  inside  the  gorge,  we  found  it  at  times  so 
narrow  that  two  of  us  could  not  walk  abreast.  Its  perpendicular  sides 
vary  in  height  from  four  hundred  to  seven  hundred  feet,   and  fre- 


88  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

quently,  without  absolutely  meeting,  they  overhang*  to  such  a  degree 
that  the  sky  is  shut  out  from  the  sight  for  a  hundred  yards  at  a  stretch. 
On  every  side,  more  than  a  yard  above  the  stream-bed,  channels  are 
cut  in  the  rock  as  conduits  for  water,  and  in  some  places  terra-cotta 
pipes  are  found  cemented  in  these  channels.  Tiny  niches  abound 
also,  cut  in  the  sides  of  the  gorge.  In  these  indications  remain  of 
figures — old  Pagan  divinities,  no  doubt.  The  growth  of  oleanders 
becomes  more  dense  as  the  gorge  descends.  Green  caper-plants  dan- 
gle from  the  crevices,  and  here  and  there  a  graceful  tamarisk  is  found 
in  the  shade.  The  tiny  brook,  the  Sik,  follows  the  whole  way.  The 
quarried  stone  scattered  along  the  path  indicates  that  the  floor  of  the 
fissure  was  once  paved.  We  scraped  away  the  debris  to  the  depth  of 
nearly  two  feet,  and  reached  the  antique  pavement.  It  was  found 
deeply  furrowed  by  the  tires  of  the  chariot-wheels  which  once  coursed 
along  this  cavernous  highway — as  deeply  cut  as  are  some  of  the  lava 
pavements  of  resurrected  Pompeii. 

At  every  turn  we  saw  evidences  of  indefatigable  effort,  and  of  how 
lavishly  labor  was  expended  by  the  people  who  lived  in  Petra  in  its 
days  of  power.  All  seemed  the  work  of  some  giant  magician's  wand. 
The  defile,  indeed,  is  called  "Wady  Mousa  by  the  Arabs,  because  they 
believe  that  the  patriarch  Moses,  by  one  stroke  of  his  staff,  caused  the 
mountain  to  separate  and  to  form  this  tremendous  fissure  in  order  to 
enable  him  to  pass  on  to  Mount  Hor,  accompanying  Aaron,  to  help 
him  die  and  to  lay  him  at  rest.  For  nearly  two  miles  we  followed  this 
semi-subterranean  passage.  The  pathway  now  descended;  the  water 
grew  deeper,  the  opposing  thicket  more  impassable,  the  scene  more 
grand.  A  last  struggle  was  made,  a  sudden  turn  in  the  gorge  was 
passed;  and,  as  I  looked  skyward,  through  the  rocky  vista,  I  caught 
the  first  glimpse  of  that  remarkable  creation — The  Khuzneh  !  Only 
partly  seen  at  first,  beyond  the  tall,  narrow  opening,  carved  in  stone  of 
a  pale  rose  color,  were  columns,  capitals,  and  cornices,  as  new  looking 
as  if  of  yesterday.  With  what  subtle  judgment  was  the  site  chosen ! 
But  when  and  by  whom,  no  one  knows — mysterious  history  conceals. 

Each  advancing  footstep  developed  a  bewitching  and  bewildering 
change  of  scene.  The  first  sight  revealed  only  the  lower  portion  of  a 
single  column.  A  stumble  over  a  bit  of  pavement,  and  a  section  of 
the  front  from  base  to  pediment  was  disclosed.  Another  turn  in  the 
gorge  hid  all  but  a  portion  of  the  pediment  from  view.    All  this  labori- 


cf^ijm^, 


Th3  Khuzneh. 


90  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

ously  finished  work  formed  a  wondrous  contrast  with  the  rug-ged  rock 
which  framed  the  view.  In  a  moment  the  approach  is  more  than  ever 
obstructed  by  luxuriant  oleanders.  Only  by  climbing  up  to  the  top 
of  a  rock  can  even  the  urn  be  seen — seeming*  then  to  be  floating  unsus- 
tained  in  the  air.  The  brilliant  noonday  sun  streams  through  the 
gorge  south  of  the  Khuzneh.  It  was  to  secure  this  magnificent  dis- 
play that  we  accepted  the  hardship  and  risk  of  the  "  long  desert " 
route.  I  had  read  about  this  first  glimpse  of  the  Khuzneh  ;  I  had  seen 
engravings  of  it  made  after  hasty  sketches ;  yet  I  found  it  to  surpass 
the  most  romantic  ideal  I  had  formed  of  its  loveliness.  At  the  time  I 
could  not  but  think  our  dragoman  was  right  when  he  said :  "  See 
Rome,  see  Egypt,  see  Greece,  see  Baalbec  and  Palmyra,  but,  above  all, 
see  the  Khuzneh ! " 

Emerging  from  the  gorge  into  an  open  area,  we  stood  face  to  face 
with  the  strange  edifice.  To  account  for  such  a  structure  in  such  a 
place  is  as  difficult  as  to  tell  the  history  of  the  gem  from  which  was 
shaped  the  intaglio  you  wear  upon  your  finger.  How  the  work  was 
done  is  not  such  a  mystery,  for  on  either  side  remain  holes  cut  in  the 
cliff  to  receive  the  scaffolding.  The  Khuzneh  is  in  a  wonderful  state 
of  preservation,  but  the  figures  which  once  graced  it,  of  which  the  nat- 
ure can  now  be  only  guessed  at,  are  too  much  defaced  for  recognition. 
Time  did  not  do  all  the  damage.  For  most  of  it  the  destructive  hand 
of  man  is  answerable.  The  portico,  consisting  now  of  five  columns, 
one  of  the  original  six  having  fallen,  with  capitals  of  Corinthian  order, 
supports  an  entablature  with  a  delicately  proportioned  pediment.  The 
columns  I  judged  to  be  about  forty  feet  high.  Measuring  a  fragment 
of  the  broken  one  lying  near,  I  found  their  diameter  was  three  feet. 
Between  the  outer  pair  of  columns,  on  either  side,  there  has  been  an 
equestrian  figure.  Yases  connected  by  garlands  of  flowers  adorn  the 
entablature,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  pediment  is  carved  a  crouching 
eagle.  Eagles  are  at  the  comers  also,  and  over  the  doors.  The  super- 
structure is  almost  equal  in  height  to  the  lower  story.  It  consists  of 
a  small  circular  construction,  reminding  the  fanciful  beholder  of  the 
"  Lantern  of  Diogenes  "  at  Athens.  It,  too,  is  supported  by  Corinthian 
pillars,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  huge  urn,  and  a  smaller  edicule  of  the 
same  order  stands  on  either  side.  Every  part  is  richly  sculptured. 
The  facade  I  measured,  and  found  to  be  ninety-six  feet  wide.  I  esti- 
mated the  height  to  be  the  same.    The  color  is  a  delicate  rose-pink, 


Bedouins  in  the  Khuzneh  Gorge. 


I 


A   VISIT  TO  PETBA.  93 

like  that  of  some  of  the  buildings  farther  on  in  the  city,  almost  un- 
broken by  waves  of  other  hue. 

The  steps  to  the  portico  are  much  defaced  and  are  overgrown  with 
grass.  Beneath  the  portico  are  two  chambers,  each  about  eight  by 
twenty  feet  in  size,  with  niches  at  the  back.  Over  each  is  a  circular 
window,  partly  walled  up.  The  chief  interior  chamber  of  the  Khuzneh 
is  forty  feet  square,  twenty  feet  high,  and  receives  all  its  light  from 
the  door.  The  doorway  is  seven  feet  wide  and  richly  decorated.  The 
Arabs  call  it  "  El  Khasneh  " — The  Treasure — as  they  imagine  that  the 
great  crowning  urn  contains  wealth  which  will  one  day  be  divinely  re- 
vealed to  them. 

After  a  thorough  examination  of  The  Treasure  from  near  at  hand, 
I  clambered  up  a  cliff  opposite,  whence  I  could  view  the  whole  at  my 
leisure.  I  experienced  a  feeling  of  satisfied  contentment  and  admira- 
tion. Scarcely  had  I  chosen  for  myself  a  comfortable  seat  among  the 
rocks,  when  I  heard  a  great  crashing  noise  in  the  gorge  beyond,  as 
though  an  earthquake  had  sent  great  masses  of  stone  down  to  prevent 
our  exit.  The  sound  came  nearer  and  nearer,  booming  and  bounding 
through  the  gorge  as  I  have  heard  the  terrible  wind-gusts  come  leap- 
ing over  the  snow  when  climbing  our  own  Mount  Washington  in  win- 
ter. But  it  was  no  convulsion  of  nature  this  time.  Now,  voices  were 
heard ;  then,  closer,  most  demoniacal  yells,  and  the  unmistakable  clash 
of  hoofs.  Our  worst  fears  were  to  be  realized.  The  Bedouins  were 
upon  us !     "  Oh !  El  Wafi ;  traitor  after  all  ?  " 

"  Don't  be  afraid,  gentlemen,"  said  our  dragoman,  quietly.  "  If  they 
attempt  to  trouble  us,  it  will  be  only  to  rob  us  of  our  money  and  our 
clothing.     Our  bodies  will  not  be  harmed." 

With  this  assurance  I  scrambled  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  gorge, 
arriving  just  in  time  to  see  rush  furiously  toward  me  six  mounted 
Arabs  of  wily  mien,  with  long-reactiing  lances  on  their  shoulders.  I 
stood  to  await  their  arrival.  They  were  as  surprised  to  see  me  as  I  was 
to  see  them,  and  now  they  halted.  I  cried  out  "  Sahib,"  and  offered  my 
hand.  To  my  surprise  it  was  taken  good-naturedly  by  all  the  party, 
and  a  declaration  of  friendliness  passed  between  us.  We  were  in  their 
city,  and  now  they  were  bound  to  protect  us  (and  rob  us !)  they  de- 
clared. The  lances  were  planted  in  the  ground  while  the  subject  was 
discussed.  They  had  not  seen  us^  but  as  our  caravan  was  compelled  to 
take  the  public  road,  it  was  discovered,  and  from  our  men  the  fact  was 


94 


I]^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


learned  that  a  party  of  travellers  had  gone  ahead.  Instantly  they  put 
spurs  to  their  horses  and  came  clashing-  through  the  gorge,  hoping  to 
prevent  our  entrance ;  but  they  were  an  hour  too  late.  Like  good  Mo- 
hammedans they  accepted  "God's  will"  in  the  matter,  leaped  from 

their  horses,  and  insisted  that 
we  should  take  their  places. 
We  did  so,  and  thus  w^ere  led 
triumphantly  into  Petra  by 
the  very  men  who  would  have 
prevented  our  entrance  amid 
exactions  and  bluster,  had 
they  caught  us  at  the  Necrop- 
olis. The  El  Wafi  scheme 
had  worked,  and  the  good- 
hearted  Nubian  came  in  with 
our  cavalcade  two  hours  after, 
his  eyes  looking  larger,  his 
breath  smelling  stronger  of 
garlic,  and  his  grin  far  broad- 
er than  ever  before. 

Sheikh  Salim,  the  chief  of 
the  tribe,  was  absent  when  we  arrived.  His  son  headed  the  party  who 
took  possession  of  us.  Salim  had  heard  of  some  very  fat  sheep  and 
attractive  dromedaries  belonging  to  a  nomadic  tribe,  who  had  brought 
them  to  graze  a  few  miles  away,  and  had  gone  with  a  posse  of  his  re- 
tainers to  raid  a  portion  of  this  desirable  property.  He  returned  that 
night  a  richer  man ;  but  what  were  a  few  sheep  and  camels  in  compari- 
son with  the  gold  which  awaited  him  in  the  purses  of  the  howadji,  even 
then  in  Petra  ?  At  once  he  came  thundering  through  the  gorge  and 
was  with  us  at  break  of  day. 

Then  another  scheme  had  to  be  perfected.  As  a  rule,  when  trav- 
ellers get  into  Petra  at  all,  they  are  hurried  out  again  as  rapidly  as  pos- 
sible, seldom  remaining  a  full  day.  I  wanted  to  stay  long  enough  to 
get  at  least  a  tolerable  photographic  record  of  the  ruins.  I  must  meet 
the  chief  with  his  own  weapons.  He  would  make  objection  to  my 
further  stay  in  Petra.  I  would  object  to  making  my  departure.  He 
would  then  attempt  to  levy  upon  my  purse,  and  I  would  discuss  the 
subject  with  him,  agree  to  some  of  his  propositions,  iiay  on  account, 


A  Preiiminary  Giimpse  of  Petra. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETBA. 


and  ask  until  next  day  to  consider  the  rest.  Thus  I  might  prolong  my 
visit.  The  plan  worked,  but  for  four  days  only.  I  began  to  realize 
then  that  if  we  remained  any  longer  we  should  be  literally  cleaned  out, 
and  perhaps  killed  by  the  Bedouins. 

But  to  return  to  our  early  experiences.  As  the  inner  gate  of  the 
city  beyond  the  Khuzneh  was  entered,  to  the  right  and  left  wondrous 
architectural  fancies  loomed  up.  On  the  left  is  a  group  of  square-cut 
edifices,  seeming  at  first  like  gigantic  steps,  but  out  of  which  varied 
facades  appear  upon  a  closer  view.  Away  in  the  distance,  low  down, 
amid  surrounding 
cliffs,  a  glimpse 
of  the  theatre  is 
had  —  almost  as 
impressive  as  the 
first  surprising 
sight  of  the  Khuz- 
neh. On  the  right 
is  a  trio  of  tombs 
and  temples  hewn 
from  the  end  of  a 
range  of  cliffs,  the 
last  one  looking 
like  a  great,  grim 
warder  at  the  city 
gate.  Beneath  are 
numberless  exca- 
vations, each  one 
of  which,  from  its 

appearance,  might  have  been  used  first  as  a  home  for  the  living,  before 
being  appropriated  as  a  tomb.  Opposite  this  group,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Sik,  is  the  theatre.  Its  auditorium  forms  about  three-fourths  of  a 
circle,  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  has  thirty-three 
tiers  of  seats,  each  capable  of  holding  a  hundred  people.  The  "  private 
boxes  "  for  royalty  and  for  the  guests  of  the  city  are  back  of  the  upper 
row.  It  is  hewn  wholly  from  the  rock.  A  grand  view  is  that  from  the 
western  side.  In  the  distance  is  the  gorge  of  the  Khuzneh.  The 
highest  peak  on  the  right  is  one  that  will  be  visited  presently.  Thence, 
no  doubt,  the  citadel  once  frowned.     About  the  theatre  fragments  of 


The  Theatre. 


96 


IJ^  8GBIPTUME  LANDS. 


the  rich  columns  which  once  ornamented  it  can  still  be  seen,  partly 
covered  by  inyading"  soil.  So  perfectly  preserved,  too,  is  the  monu- 
ment in  all  essential  features,  that  if  the  tenants  of  the  graves  opposite 
could  rise  once  more  into  life,  they  could  readily  find  their  old  seats. 

Now,  emerging  into  the  expanse  of  the  little  valley,  the  full  glory 
of  the  Edomite  capital  burst  upon  us.  Nature  built  these  stupendous 
walls,  and  man  adorned  them  with  patient  workmanship,  each  artist 
A^ing  with  his  fellow  in  shaping  these  rainbow  cliffs  into  forms  of 

beauty.  In  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Pe- 
tra,  one  portion  of  the  town,  cor- 
responding almost  to  a  modern 
"block,"  is  particularly  prominent. 
More  than  a  dozen  splendid  struct- 
ures are  here  side  by  side,  so  that  it 
is  hard  to  select  from  them  any  one 
for  illustration.  One  of  the  most 
striking  is  the  so-called  Temple  of 
the  Urn  and  Arched  Terrace.  Both 
Egyptian  and  Roman  art  influence 
are  apparent  in  this  broad  facade. 
To  obtain  a  good  color  and  relief 
from  monotony,  the  architect  cut 
into  the  rock  some  fifteen  feet  and 
placed  a  row  of  columns  on  either 
side  to  form  a  portico.  An  arched  terrace  is  employed  to  support  the 
platform,  of  which  the  base  is  quite  a  hundred  feet  above  the  valley 
level.  There  are  two  tiers  of  terrace  arches.  The  lower  is  nearly  buried 
beneath  the  debris  of  other  arches.  Behind  them  are  several  chambers 
cut  out  of  the  mountain  underneath  the  fa9ade.  Originally  five  columns 
supported  the  gallery  on  each  side.  Four  lofty  pilasters  adorn  the  fa- 
cade, and  there  is  not  only  a  window  immediately  above  the  doorway, 
but  a  row  of  three  other  windows  between  the  pilasters,  a  few  feet  below 
the  capitals.  These  suggest  the  possible  existence  of  upper  chambers. 
Surmounting  the  pediment  is  a  great  urn,  like  others  of  its  class  a  con- 
stant aim  for  the  bullets  of  the  Bedouins,  who  try  thus  feebly  to  bring 
it  down,  because  they  believe  it  to  contain  "great  treasure."  The 
colors  of  the  stone  are  remarkable,  and  in  the  sunshine  bright  and 
beautiful.    The  material,  sandstone,  is  so  soft  that  the  effect  is  like  that 


The  Temple  of  the  Urn  and  Arched  Terrace. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETRA. 


97 


of  pastel.  T\Tien  the  torrents  come  the  water  is  absorbed  by  the  rock. 
As  the  water  percolates,  the  rock  is  colored  by  iron  deposits,  and  thus 
a  great  variety  of  vivid  hues  is  created.  The  arches  of  this  temple  are 
grayish-brown ;  the  front  as  far  as  the  capitals  is  streaked  with  golden 


The  Temple  of  the  Urn— Eastern  Colonnade. 


yellow  and  pink ;  up  to  the  urn  the  pediment  is  white  and  red,  lilac 
and  blue. 

The  manner  in  which  the  colors  occur,  in  stripes  and  waves,  is 
illustrated  by  a  study  of  the  eastern  colonnade.  Through  it  the  broken 
entrance  to  the  dark  interior  is  seen.  There  is  but  one  wide  and  lofty 
chamber,  fifty  feet  square.     An  inscription  on  the  wall  declares  that  it 


08 


/iV^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


"was  once  consecrated  as  a  Christian  cliurch.  At  the  rear  there  are 
three  recesses.  All  these  are  so  well  preserved  that  they  still  show 
the  marks  of  the  chisel.     The  flocks  seem  to  have  made  it  their  home 

once   upon   a  time,  but  now  the 
bats  hold  full  sway. 

The  Corinthian  structure  near 
by,  being  more  exposed  to  the  ele- 
ments, is  not  in  so  good  repair. 
Twelve  fine  columns  ornament  its 
facade,  and  eight  more  of  smaller 
dimensions  surmount  these.  There 
are  four  entrances,  which  gave  the 
architect  opportunity  not  only  to 
gratify  his  taste  for  lavish  deco- 
ration, but  to  give  variety  in  the 
construction  of  the  pediments.  Of 
these  two  are  arched  and  two  are 
triangular.  Reaching  quite  across 
the  front,  between  the  architrave 
and  the  base  of  the  pediment,  is 
a  strange  frieze  resembling  a  row 
of  Corinthian  capitals.  I  judged  the  height  of  this  front  to  be  about 
equal  to  that  of  the  Khuzneh — close  to  one  hundred  feet.  The  interior 
is  divided  into  four  chambers,  all  in  front,  with  niches  in  the  walls 
here  and  there. 

Still  more  grand  is  the  "Temple  with  Three  Tiers  of  Columns," 
which  has  four  entrances  and  was  four  stories  high.  The  builder  fell 
short  of  his  material  of  living  rock  on  the  left  hand,  and  helped  out 
the  design  with  quarried  stone.  Earthquake  has  sent  all  these  built-up 
portions  tumbling  to  the  ground,  but  a  grand  ruin  remains.  Its  lower 
interior  (I  believe  there  are  chambers  in  the  upper  stories,  too,  which 
I  was  not  allowed  to  visit)  comprises  several  apartments.  In  the  walls 
are  niches  for  images.     The  color  display  here  again  is  most  fantastic. 

From  the  front  of  the  Temple  of  Columns  one  can  look  to  the  right 
and  left  upon  what  once  formed  the  principal  quarter  of  Petra.  On 
all  sides  it  is  encompassed  by  precipitous  mountains,  whose  spurs 
sometimes  encroach  upon  the  area,  with  natural  walls  from  four  to 
twelve  hundred  feet  high. 


Corinthian   Structure. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETBA. 


99 


Not  so  fascinating-  were  certain  excavations  back  of  our  tents. 
News  spreads  like  wild-fire  in  modem  Edom ;  and  before  we  first  saw 
the  sunset  beyond  Mount  Hor,  some  sixty  of  Esau's  descendants  bad 
followed  us  and  bad  opened  oftices  in  tbese  excavations.  Never  was 
so  savage  a  haunt  for  banditti  conceived  by  Salvator  Kosa.  The 
trouble  then  began.  Each  individual  Arab  claimed  the  privilege  of 
showing  the  city  to  the  stranger.  From  their  bluster  I  made  up  my 
mind  that  we  were  soon  to  be  *cut  into  pieces  in  order  that  the  work 


Temple  with  Three  Tiers  of  Columns. 


might  be  done  more  expeditiously.  During  those  four  dreadful  days, 
I  obtained  more  satisfactory  studies  of  Hades,  Purgatory,  Sheol,  and 
Gehenna  than  I  had  previously  flattered  myself  I  should  secure  in  this 
world.  A  viler  band  of  robbers  never  existed.  I  had  fallen  volun- 
tarily into  their  hands,  and  it  behooved  me  now  to  make  the  best  bar- 
gain I  could  to  get  away.  But  just  here  was  the  trouble.  No  bargain 
agreed  upon  was  adhered  to  for  an  hour  at  a  time.  Some  item  was 
always  "forgotten."  At  each  amendment  of  the  contract  an  amount 
of  discussion  had  to  be  undergone  that  was  exasperating  beyond  meas- 


100 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


lire.     The  only  compensation  I  had  was 
that  these  discussions  secured  me  more 
time  in  the  town.     Between  arguments  I 
snatched  the  coveted  views  with  my  three 
cameras.     Frequent  settlements  were  had 
in  my  tent,  with  Salim,  and 
they   were   always   dramatic. 
After  the  money  was  counted 
out  in  English  sovereigns  and 
Egyptian  "dollars,"  it  was 


i^3¥m\ 


Th«  Pyramid— Shtikh  Salim  and  his  Staff. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETEkl'^l  >    V  ,        '>>•'  f  101 

separated  into  various  sums  and  spread  out  li^©n^' ^te  iiig"?  '  ^sH  Salim 
would  take  first  one  sum,  and  then  another,  and  tie  them  up  in  the 
comers  of  his  garments,  begging  that  his  staff  should  not  be  told  of  it. 
Thus,  like  a  politician  of  the  good  old  school,  he  obtained  his  "  com- 
mission." Then,  with  the  remaining  portion  in  the  up-held  skirt  of 
his  royal  robe,  he  would  retire  with  his  staff  to  one  of  the  caves,  and 
proceed  to  divide.  A  dreadful  scene  always  followed,  of  quarrelling 
and  sword-drawing ;  but  they  always  seemed  to  come  out  of  it  unhurt, 
and  I  ceased  to  worry  about  them.  One  day  I  caught  the  rascals  with 
my  camera,  after  one  of  their  angriest  discussions,  as  they  emerged 
from  their  "  office."  The  exactions  here  were  similar  to  those  of  Aka- 
bah,  but  largely  multiplied,  because  there  were  more  here  to  divide 
with.  My  photographic  apparatus,  with  my  leather  cases  of  glass, 
were  a  mystery  to  them.  Xo  custom-house  appraiser  was  ever  more 
gloriously  baffled  over  the  witchery  of  a  female  smuggler  than  were 
Salim  and  his  staff  over  my  American  camera.  It  was  at  last  decided 
to  be  "  magical  apparatus  "  which  "  meant  no  good  to  Petra,"  and  I 
was  taxed  accordingly. 

To  Petra's  peculiar  style  of  architecture  there  is  only  one  surviving 
exception  of  importance.  It  is  called  by  the  Arabs  Kasr  Pharoun,  or 
the  Castle  of  Pharaoh.  Elsewhere  on  classic  soil  it  would  scarcely 
attract  attention.  But  here,  it  not  only  represents  an  important  pe- 
riod in  the  life  of  the  capital  of  Idumsea,  but  it  was  one  of  a  group  of 
magnificent  structures,  which  represented  the  wealth  and  taste  of  a  won- 
derful i^eople.  Its  locality  is  near  the  western  exit  of  the  city.  A\Tien 
Burckhardt  discovered  Petra  in  1812,  the  ruins  of  a  triumphal  arch 
stood  nearly  opposite  the  Kasr  Pharoun.  Now  its  stones  lie  upon  the 
ground  intermingled  with  fragments  of  columns  of  Egyptian  syenite 
and  Arabian  porj^hyry,  which  still  bear  their  pristine  polish  and  per- 
fect form.  Here  too,  lying  in  confusion,  are  the  drums  of  columns 
which  once  supported  a  great  building.  These,  with  a  dozen  piles  of 
ruins  near  by,  tell  of  wealth  and  magnificence  and  of  dreadful  calam- 
ities. Great  changes  have  occurred  here  in  seventy  years.  When 
Burckhardt  and  Laborde  were  here  they  saw  standing  also  portions 
of  walls  of  other  structures  and  a  graceful  column.  All  now  lie  in 
ruins.  The  work  of  destruction  is  done  largely  by  the  torrents.  Each 
year  they  come  sweeping  do^vn  the  moimtain  sides,  carrying  with  them 
rocky  debris  which  they  have  loosened  on  their  way.     By  undermining 


102  'li^)        ^  \<'   <  |.^^  )%^RIPTURE  LANDS. 

and  bo?jafeid,viT?g  'tlie'  icbiselled .liiysteries  of  the  town,  they  break  them 
into  shapeless  masses,  and  even  carry  their  fragments  a  long  distance. 
The  peculiar  soft  texture  of  the  rock  makes  the  ruins  highly  destruct- 
ible. At  no  place  is  this  so  evident  as  along  the  higher  stairways. 
Sometimes  these  are  worn  almost  to  smooth  inclined  planes.  In  some 
interiors  I  could  see,  by  marks  high  on  the  walls,  where  the  water  had 
risen.  Broken  bridges  are  found  in  the  ravines,  and  here  and  there  a 
cemented  cistern,  filled  with  rubbish.  Some  curious  lamps  were  found 
by  our  party  amid  broken  pottery,  delicate  in  form  and  decoration. 

West  of  the  Kasr  Pharoun  I  found  an  unfinished  temple,  which  ex- 
l)lains  vividly  the  methods  adopted  by  Petran  architects.  After  the 
site  had  been  selected,  the  face  of  the  cliff  was  smoothed  perpendicu- 
larly and  scaffolding  erected;  then  the  work  of  shaping  the  facade 
began  at  the  top.  Thus  the  weight  of  the  material  above  was  always 
supported  solidly  during  the  work,  and  the  debris  was  never  in  the 
way  of  the  workmen.  The  interior  of  the  structure  now  under  exam- 
ination was  wholly  excavated  and  put  to  use  as  a  tomb ;  but  the  front 
remains  unfinished.     (See  engraving  3  on  page  86.) 

Thus  far  I  had  been  guided  by  the  descriptions  of  explorers  who 
had  gone  before  me.  I  was  satisfied  that  there  was  more  to  see.  A 
great  ravine  leading  southeast  from  the  Kasr  Pharoun^  gave  me  this 
assurance  and  seemed  to  invite  a  test  of  my  mettle.  Calling  the  atten- 
tion of  my  guide,  I  pointed  to  the  ravine  and  said:  " Tahly-henna " 
(Come  here).  His  answer  was :  "  La !  la  !  mafeesh !  "  (No !  no !  No 
good.)  But  I  acted  on  my  OAvn  opinion,  as  one  always  must  with  these 
people,  and  began  the  ascent  of  the  ravine,  ordering  Mousa  to  follow. 
I  was  ambitious  to  see  what  others  had  not  seen,  and  thus  add  to  the 
scanty  information  concerning  this  strange  site.  I  was  amply  rewarded 
by  the  discovery  of  rich  treasures.  I  followed  up  a  dry  torrent-bed 
which  wound  most  curiously  for  about  a  mile,  and  then  came  within 
sight  of  a  walled  terrace,  the  finest  example  of  its  kind  I  had  yet  seen. 
Just  before  reaching  it,  on  the  left,  I  was  attracted  by  an  irregular 
doorway.  Entering  it,  I  found  myself  standing  within  a  low  chamber 
containing  a  large  number'of  fluted  columns,  all  hewn  from  the  moun- 
tain. They  seemed  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  great  mass  above.  The 
dripping  water  had  dealt  hardly  with  this  strange  example  of  archi- 
tecture, but  had  stained  it  in  beautiful  colors,  red,  white,  and  blue. 
Dr.  Olin  noticed  a  similar  interior  near  this,  three  of  whose  sides  had 


A    VISIT  TO  PETRA. 


103 


four  fluted  semi-columns  each.  I  did  not  find  it.  In  the  time  I  had  I 
could  not  begin  to  see  all  there  was  to  see.  Climbing  now  to  the  ter- 
race, a  lovely  spot  was  found,  about  two  acres  in  extent,  shut  in  by  lofty 
cliffs  whose  sides  were  adorned  with  a  great  number  of  carved  facades, 
and  to  whose  summits  winding  stairways  led,  cut  from  the  rock.  This 
lofty  platform  was  carpet- 
ed with  grass,  and  olean-  f^ 
ders  and  fig  -  trees  grew 
there  in  profusion. 

As  I  climbed  the  wind- 
ing stairway  just  beyond 
the  walk,  I  found  on  its 
rocky  sides  niches  with 
tiny  figures  in  them  simi- 
lar to  those  in  the  gorge 
below,  and  not  unlike  those 
near  the  cave  of  Pan  at 
Caesarea  Philippi.  A  part 
of  a  human  foot  was  found 
carved  in  the  wall,  near 
some  curious  inscriptions 
and  figures  like  those  on 
the  rocks  in  tho  region  of 
Mount  Sinai.  At  the  head 
of  the  stairway  two  hollow- 

ed-out  rocks,  canopied  by  overhanging  cliffs,  seemed  to  form  pulpits  with 
sounding-boards.  Tanks  were  cut  in  the  rocks  beneath,  as  though  for 
bajjtism,  and  away  below  was  a  grassy  plateau,  where  our  imagination 
pictured  a  congregation.  It  was  the  only  iDlace  I  saw  in  Petra  which 
seemed  really  to  have  an  air  of  holiness  about  it.  St.  Paul  might  have 
preached  from  these  lofty  pulpits.  One  can  well  believe  that  here  the 
early  martyrs  assembled.  As  I  turned  one  of  tho  elbows  in  my  climb, 
I  came  upon  what  others  had  observed  at  a  distance  and  called  "  a  pyr- 
amid." This  was  my  first  disappointment  in  Petra.  What  I  touched 
with  my  hand  was  unworthy  of  being  dubbed  an  obelisk,  even.  It 
was  about  twenty  feet  high.  It  was  twelve  feet  wide,  and  seven  feet 
through  at  the  base,  tapering  to  about  half  those  dimensions  at  the 
apex.    It  was  rough-hewn  and  undetached  from  the  mountain.    A  vast 


Interior  of  Temple   with  Fluted  Columns. 


104 


Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LAKD8. 


platform  liad  been  levelled  there,  and  the  stone  having  been  cut  away 
about  this  little  monolithic  pinnacle,  the  "pyramid"  was  left.  In  a 
southwesterly  direction  stood  a  similar  mystery,  a  trifle  smaller  in 
size.     (See  the  engraving-  on  page  100.) 

The  afternoon  was  waning  now,  and  I  was  obliged  to  make  haste. 

The  summit  must  be  gained.  The 
weird  wildness  of  the  scene,  not 
without  enchantment,  was  intensi- 
fied by  the  shouting  which  came 
floating  up  to  us  from  the  lawless 
rabble  who  infested  the  caves  near 
our  tents.  How  pictures,  each 
claiming  attention,  multiplied  on 
every  side !  Alas !  the  day  was 
nearly  ended,  the  sunshine  was  go- 
ing, and  we  must  make  the  descent 
before  dark. 

Satisfied  that  there  must  be  yet 
more,  where  there  were  so  many 
wonders,  I  clambered  dowii  a  rocky  stair- 
way, which  I  felt  could  not  have  been  cut  at 
so  great  expense  of  labor  without  a  purpose. 
I  crossed  a  short  depression,  ascended  an- 
other stairway,  and  came  out  upon  a  sum- 
mit which  had  been  hewn  to  a  level,  from 
one  edge  to  the  other.  There,  cut  in  the 
rocky  platform,  are  several  curious  tanks 
fi^  Ai^^f'^^W/T^.''  '  ^^^  what  must  be  an  altar  of  sacrifice.    This 

;  '"  is  at  the  west  side  of  the  platform,  on  a  rock 

Rock  sta.rway  and  Pulpit.  ^Y  it^clf,  to  whlch  four  stoue  steps  lead.     It 

consists  of  a  shallow  circular  basin,  forty- 
eight  inches  in  diameter,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  deeper  depression 
eighteen  inches  across.  This  was  designed,  no  doubt,  to  catch  the 
blood.  From  it  runs  a  small  drain  drilled  through  the  rock  and  lead- 
ing into  a  tank.  I  looked  upon  my  discovery  as  one  of  the  "  altars  in 
high  places,"  consecrated  to  Baal  or  other  false  gods,  of  which  the  Old 
Testament  speaks  with  words  of  warning.  A  tiny  recess  was  hewn  at 
the  left  of  the  stairway,  where  the  pans,  shovels,  basins,  flesh-hooks, 


1 


d  ,,l^^^^^^s>^^ 


^^m^^ 


The  Altar  of  Baal. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETBA.  107 

and  censers  may  have  been  stored  by  heathen  priests.  There  are  other 
tanks,  and  possibly  remains  of  other  altars,  on  the  plateau.  Below 
these,  further  to  the  south,  is  still  another  tank,  filled  with  good  water 
and  containing-  some  comical  little  fish.  I  caught  some  of  them.  They 
are  blind,  like  those  found  in  Mammoth  Cave.  All  these  tanks  are. low- 
est at  the  southeast  comer,  and  are  supplied  there  with  outlets  cut  in 
the  rock,  leading  into  channels  down  the  mountain. 

Descending  a  narrow  gorge,  I  came  out  by  the  theatre.  On  the  way 
we  passed  channels  and  rock-cut  cisterns  on  all  sides,  and  a  wide  stair- 
way whose  colors  were  as  rich  and  varied  as  those  of  any  Persian  rug. 
Now  and  then  a  tiny  garden-spot  was  reached,  whose  grassy  sod  alter- 
nated with  a  variety  of  flowering  shrubs  and  peculiar,  large,  bulbous 
plants,  with  stalks  just  shooting  forth.  In  one  great  reservoir,  some 
twenty  by  sixty  feet  in  size  and  twelve  deep,  several  trees  are  growing. 
One  end  of  this  reservoir  is  walled  with  hewn  stone,  and  a  flight  of 
stone  steps,  still  well  preserved,  leads  to  the  bottom.  The  cement 
upon  the  sides  is  in  good  condition,  and  but  little  cleansing  would  be 
needed  to  make  the  great  receptacle  again  available.  All  around  are 
sculptured  remains  and  excavations  of  various  sizes,  showing  that  the 
ample  water-supply  attracted  quite  a  constituency  of  dwellers. 

Our  last  morning  in  Petra  was  devoted  to  an  excursion  to  a  temple 
second  only  in  beauty  to  the  Khuzneh,  but  less  florid.  It  is  much 
larger,  and  is  located  upon  a  peak  fully  fifteen  hundred  feet  above  the 
valley.  It  is  called  "  El  Deir,"  or  The  Convent.  From  the  plain  below 
the  great  urn  upon  its  pediment  can  be  seen  distinctly,  peering  above 
the  adjoining  rocks.  "El  Deir"  was  reached  by  climbing  a  deep  ra- 
vine northward — a  ravine  which  would  have  been  impassable  but  for 
the  steps  cut  in  the  rock.  Sometimes  they  were  upon  the  very  verge 
of  precipices  whose  depth  could  not  be  fathomed.  Through  openings 
between  the  clifis,  glorious  "  bits  "  of  the  lower  town  could  be  observed. 
After  a  climb  of  one  hour  we  reached  the  spacious  facade  of  "  El  Deir  " 
— one  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet  wide,  and  about  one  hundred  feet  high. 
The  interior  chamber  is  thirty-seven  by  forty  feet.  Inscriptions  re- 
sembling those  near  Mount  Sinai  are  found  upon  the  rocks  on  the  as- 
cent and  upon  the  walls  of  the  interior  chamber.  Opposite  the  door- 
way is  a  niche,  over  which  is  an  image  of  the  Christian  cross. 

Other  elaborate  structures  must  have  been  neighbors  to  "  El  Deir," 
for  here  and  there  in  the  wide  area  in  front  are  the  remains  of  huge 


108 


Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


^tt     1  ^m 


columns  and  fragments  of  walls 
and  terraces.  Leading"  to  the 
summit  of  the  mountain  out  of 
which  the  "  Deir "  is  hewn,  is  a 
narrow  stairway,  ending-  in  a  level 
plateau,  where  stand  other  exten- 
sive ruins.  Excavated  foundations 
are  found  near  by  in  abundance,  and  the  numerous  stairways  skirting- 
the  hills  prove  also  that  the  neighborhood  was  much  frequented.  On 
an  opposite  cliff  we  found  a  rock-chamber  with  no  fa9ade  at  all.  It 
is  twenty-nine  by  thirty  feet  in  size,  with  a  niche  at  the  rear  ten  by 


Neighborhood  of  the  Temple  of  the  Urn  (in  the  Middle  Ground). 


A   VISIT  TO  PETRA. 


Ill 


fifteen  feet.     A  pediment  and  pilasters  of  beautiful  design  are  cut  from 
the  rock  about  the  niche. 

Near  our  lofty  stand-point,  upon  the  flat  surface  of  a  rock,  I  saw 
lying  in  the  sun,  dead,  a  lizard  about  a  foot  long,  and  a  striped  snake 
twice  that  length.  They  were  not  there  when  I  made  the  ascent,  but 
had  since  met,  disputed,  and  rendered  "  satisfaction "  to  one  another. 
It  may  be  that  this  typified  the  fate  of  Edom's  capital.  Perhaps  some 
destroying  serpent  crej^t  into  Petra,  challenged  the  rich,  well-fed  liz- 


The  Serpent  and  the  Lizard. 

ard-citizens  to  combat,  and  the  battle  raged  until  no  soul  was  left  to 
record  the  tale ! 

There  is,  besides  the  Greek  and  Eoman  influences,  a  mysterious 
element  of  originality  in  Petran  architecture  which  lends  to  it  a  qual- 
ity not  found  in  other  places.  When  the  sway  of  imperial  Pome  crept 
into  Petra  by  way  of  Asia  Minor,  Syria,  and  Egypt,  her  rock-structures 
grew  rapidly  in  number.  The  influence  of  the  excavated  temples  and 
tunnelled  tombs  along  the  Nile,  too,  is  clear  not  only  in  the  rock-cut- 
ting, but  in  the  numerous  tapering  and  receding  facades,  and  in  the 
abortive  sphinxes  and  pyramids  of  the  Necropolis. 

Intelligent  Arabs  like  still  to  dwell  upon  their  traditions  concern- 
ing the  once  prosperous  capital.  Once  a  year,  when  they  start  in  cara- 
vans from  Hebron  to  carry  oranges  and  other  stores  to  Akabah  for 
Mecca  pilgrims,  they  prefer  to  pay  a  tax  to  Sheikh  Salim,  and  to  come 
through  Petra,  rather  than  pass  down  the  Wady  Arabah.  Still,  to-day 
the  sons  of  Esau  want  to  be  merchantmen.  Salim  would  not  fix  a  sum 
total  of  taxation  for  our  entrance  into  Petra.  He  must  have  separate 
sums  laid  aside  for  the  "  purchase  "  of  horse-shoes,  barley,  sheep,  and 
so  on.  And  how  prices  have  changed  since  the  day  of  Burckhardt ! 
That  noted  and  conscientious  traveller  sneaked  into  Petra  as  we  did. 
He  dressed  like  a  Moslem  and  brought  a  tiny  goat  all  the  way  from 


112 


IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


Hebron,  pretending-  that  he  desired  to  sacrifice  it  on  Mount  Hor— the 
holy  Mount  of  Aaron.    That  was  Us  scheme.    He  "  paid  a  fellah  of  Eljy 
a  pair  of  old  horse-shoes  to  carry  the  g-oat  "  and  guide  him.     His  trick- 
ery was  discovered, 
however.      He   took 
too  much  interest  in 
the  ruins  on  the  way, 
and  became  glad  to 
sacrifice    the    goat 
half-way  up    Mount 
Hor  and  make  good 
his    escape,    so    an- 
noyed was  he  by  the 
owner  of  the  horse- 
shoes.    I  had  to  pay 
thirty  dollars  for  the 
privilege  of  making 
my  picture  of  the  six 
scoundrels  on  their 
horses,  though  their 
"  protection"  during 
a  second  visit  to  the  Necropolis 
was   "a  present."    Wherever  we 
went  we  had  to  pay  extra ;  and  we 
were  shadowed  constantly,  never 
being  allowed  to  go  any  distance 
alone.     Sometimes,  to  get  rid  of 
noise,  a  seat  was  sought  in  some 
retired  place.     Presently  some  de- 
bris of  rock  would  be  heard  rat- 
tling down.     Then,  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  sound,  a  dusky  head 
would  be  seen  gazing  down,  post- 
ed there  to  watch  our  every  move- 
ment.    Backsheesh  could  not  pur- 
Nor  did  we  succeed  in  exploring, 
even  under  surveillance,  all  the  wonders  of  Petra.     About  one  hundred 
yards  before  reaching  the  buttressed  arch,  on  the  right,  is  a  tunnel  be- 


Spur  of  Mount  Hor — the  Ravine  of  the  Dei 


chase  freedom  from  this  annoyance. 


A   VISIT  TO  PETRA.  113 

neath  the  mountain,  about  fifteen  feet  wide  and  nearly  as  high,  perhaps 
two  hundred  yards  long.  It  is  overgrown  with  oleander  bushes  and 
partly  hidden  by  them.  I  had  nearly  reached  its  further  end  when  I 
was  compelled  to  retrace  my  steps : — "  Ma  feesh  !  " 

The  time  had  now  come  to  contrive  our  departure  from  Sheikh 
Salim's  dominions.  Early  in  the  morning  my  companions  and  I  bade 
good-by  to  the  horde  .about  us,  and  started  under  the  guidance  of  Mo- 
hammed and  Yusef,  two  native  Petrans,  to  visit  the  Deir  and  Mount 
Hor.  During  our  absence  Hedayah  was  to  break  camp,  and  to  meet  us 
at  noon,  near  the  Kasr  Pharoun,  with  our  caravan.  "We  were  surprised, 
upon  arriving  at  the  appointed  place,  to  see  some  sixty  or  seventy 
Bedouins,  mostly  mounted,  and  armed  with  lances,  guns,  and  an  assort- 
ment of  knives  and  blunderbusses,  awaiting  our  arrival.  "WTien  they 
saw  us  coming  a  significant  hoot  was  given,  and  we  felt  that  trouble 
was  brewing.  Hedayah  called  out  to  us :  "  Don't  be  afraid,  gentlemen, 
but  mount  your  camels  and  proceed  with  your  journey."  It  was  "  the 
custom,"  he  said,  "  for  these  people  to  attend  the  departing  stranger 
haK  a  day's  journey  out  of  their  city."  For  this  scheme  of  theirs,  all 
the  horses  and  men  possible  had  been  pressed  into  the  service  now  to 
do  us  honor.  "  Since  they  had  not  had  the  pleasure  of  greeting  us 
when  we  came  in,  they  wished  to  see  us  out." 

Immediately  we  mounted  our  camels,  they  were  seized  by  the 
brigands,  and  made  to  kneel.  We  were  surrounded  by  the  lancers. 
Sheikh  Salim  among  them.  The  hooting  became  louder,  and  had  an 
element  of  dissatisfaction  and  contempt  about  it  which  was  not  calcu- 
lated to  allay  our  anxiety. 

"  Keep  cool,  gentlemen,"  said  the  brave  Hedayah,  who  thereupon 
fell  into  the  most  violent  of  Arabic  demonstrations.  The  gauntlet  had 
been  thrown  and  the  fight  began.  The  quiet  Mohammed,  who  had  car- 
ried my  camera  for  several  days,  now  became  a  principal,  and  drawing 
his  sword,  made  a  thrust  at  our  good  dragoman.  It  fell  short  of  its 
mark,  but  cut  an  ugly  slit  in  his  leggin  without  wounding  him.  Heda- 
yah leaped  from  his  camel,  and  with  uplifted  swo- 1  attacked  Moham- 
med. The  melee  became  general,  the  noise  infernal,  and  we  prepared 
ourselves  for  the  worst.  Salim  sat  there  on  his  horse  quietly  watching 
events.  Upon  his  honor  being  appealed  to,  he  declared  that  he  had  no 
power  over  his  men ;  that  wo  had  remained  longer  than  they  wished, 
and  they  w^ere  not  satisfied  with  the  money  we  had  left  behind. 
8 


114  I]^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

While  sundry  battles  of  words  were  going  on,  each  man  with  sword 
drawn,  I  settled  with  Salim  for  various  "  things  which  had  been  forgot- 
ten," including  fifteen  dollars  for  a  "  change  of  raiment."  Hedayah  and 
Mohammed  had  a  settlement  aside.  The  latter  had  a  claim  for  two 
shillings,  and  for  that  was  willing  to  kill  Hedayah.  All  things  being 
amicably  adjusted  at  last,  we  were  permitted  to  move  on.  Salim  and  I 
shook  hands  warmly  once  more,  and  wishing  that  "  God  might  preserve 
us  during  the  rest  of  our  journey,"  he  put  spur  to  his  horse  and  was 
soon  out  of  sight.  Not  so  all  his  hounds.  New  claims  were  made  now, 
in  the  most  threatening  manner,  and  although  we  moved  on,  half  the 
scoundrels  followed  us.  Claim  after  claim  was  adjusted  as  we  slowly 
proceeded,  until,  after  an  hour  of  horror,  I  held  my  empty  purse  bottom 
up  in  the  air  and  declared  that  they  now  had  all.  Thereupon  the 
greater  number  dropped  behind,  only  a  few  remaining  to  bluster  at 
Hedayah.  They,  too,  departed  at  last,  after  satisfying  themselves  that 
there  was  no  more  money  to  be  gotten  from  us. 

At  last,  rid  of  our  tormentors,  we  proceeded,  quickening  the  pace  of 
our  camels.  Scarce  had  we  travelled  half  an  hour,  when,  springing 
suddenly  from  behind  a  rock,  a  Bedouin  made  his  appearance.  At 
once  he  began  a  display  of  excited  pantomime,  drawn  sword  in  hand. 
He  made  several  attempts  to  stop  our  leading  camels,  but  was  beaten 
oflf.  He  persisted,  however,  in  trying  one  after  another.  Exasperated 
that  one  man  should  so  browbeat  a  whole  caravan,  I  ordered  some 
camel-drivers  to  arrest  him  and  march  him  under  their  guns  to  the 
head  of  the  line,  meaning  to  take  him  to  Hebron  and  put  him  in  prison. 
When  this  was  done  I  learned  that  he  had  claimed  a  sovereign  for  a 
sheep  which,  he  averred,  Abdullah  had  purchased  of  him  and  forgotten 
to  pay  for.  Afterward  he  confessed  that  he  had  lied  about  it,  but  ex- 
cused himself  by  saying  that  he  was  a  poor  man,  and  having  arrived  in 
Petra  after  the  money  had  been  divided,  had  taken  his  chances  on  the 
road. 

Quiet  was  restored  once  more,  but  ewerj  rock  was  now  suspected 
and  watched.  Presently  a  man  with  a  gun  in  his  hand  was  seen  on  the 
right,  coming  quickly  down  a  hill.  "  Sahib  ?  Sahib  ?  "  called  Hedayah, 
threateningly  drawing  his  revolver.  The  wind  blew  so  that  the  re- 
ply was  not  audible,  and  Hedayah  fired.  Had  the  rusty  old  weapon 
been  true,  one  of  our  own  drivers  would  have  been  the  victim.  Hardly 
had  we  said  to  ourselves,  "  What  next,  I  wonder  ? "  when  another  Arab 


A   VISIT  TO  PETBA. 


115 


appeared,  and  proved  the  most  troublesome  of  all.     Camel  after  camel 
was  seized  by  him,  with  the  intention  of  stopping  our  march.     Losing 
all  patience,  our  sheikh  struck  the  fellow  on  the  head  with  his  stone 
pipe-bowl.     This  led  to  open  war.     Several  of  us  dismounted  from  our 
camels  as  quickly  as  we  could,  and  ran  to  assist  our  men.     Before  we 
could  reach  the  scene  of  battle  the  rascal  had  escaped.    Running  to 
the  top  of  a  hill,  he 
aimed   his    gun  at 
Hedayah,    and    said 
that  unless  five  sov- 
ereigns were  sent  up 
to  him  he  would  fire. 
I  was  appealed    to, 
and  I  called  to  him 
to  surrender.    He 
refused,  and  four  of 
the  camel-drivers,  al- 
ready ordered  in  po- 
sition,   at    a    signal 
from  me  fired  upon 
him.     With  that  he 
threw  up   his  arms, 
and  cried  "Sahib," 
and  I  sent  two  men 
up  to  bring  him  down. 
He  was  wounded.     I 
had    him    tied,    and 
left   him  struggling 

violently  and  groaning  in  the  road  for  his  women  to  find  when  they 
drove  the  flocks  home  at  night. 

This  wretch  claimed  a  paper  which  he  said  he  had  received  direct 
from  Mohammed  in  heaven,  and  had  thrown  into  my  tent  in  Petra, 
where  I  had  kissed  it  and  touched  it  to  my  heart  and  head !  We  had 
shed  his  blood ;  so,  after  leaving  him,  the  good  Mussulman  Hedayah, 
fearing  the  man  might  live  to  declare  a  blood-feud  between  them,  in- 
sisted on  going  back  and  making  peace.  Two  dollars  would  be  needed. 
Alas  !  our  whole  party  could  not  muster  so  much.  There  was  only  one 
recourse.    We  must  borrow  from  our  prisoner,  who  was  marched  to  me 


Hedayah  on  his  Camel. 


116  7iV  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

and  the  loan  solicited.  He  declared  that  he  was  a  poor  man  and  had 
not  a  piastre  on  his  person.  I  ordered  him  searched,  excusing-  myself 
by  sajdng"  that  in  America,  when  a  man  lied  once,  he  was  never  after 
believed.  He  protested ;  but  his  money-belt  was  unbuckled  and  found 
well  lined  with  some  of  the  very  dollars  which  I  had  paid  Balim  !  "We 
borrowed  them  of  our  prisoner  to  make  peace  with  our  enemy.  The 
wounded  man  was  again  visited.  He  was  found  lying-  insensible  in  the 
road.  The  money  was  thrust  into  his  clutched  fist;  Hedayah  kissed 
him  on  each  cheek,  recited  some  passages  from  the  Koran,  and  peace 
was  declared  and  recorded  in  Heaven.  Once  more  we  iDroceeded  on 
our  way.  No  halt  was  made  for  lunch  that  evening  until  the  eastern 
border  of  the  Wady  Arabah  had  been  reached.  We  were  too  anxious 
until  then  to  eat  or  rest.  The  "  Eock  of  El  Gohr  "  was  no  "  refuge  "  for 
us.  "We  passed  it  with  all  speed  to  escape  the  Edomites.  Our  camp 
was  guarded  during  several  succeeding  nights.  Through  each  day 
Ouida  acted  as  scout,  signalling  us  from  the  hill-tops  when  it  was  safe 
to  follow,  or  leaving  his  lance  in  sight  as  a  warning  to  us  to  halt,  while 
he  investigated  certain  black  Bedouin  specks  in  the  distance. 

Our  next  undertaking  was  to  find  Kadesh  Barnea.  Calm  reflection 
satisfies  me,  after  our  successful  feat  in  the  "  taking  of  Petra,"  that  our 
little  party  was  in  peril  during  every  hour  of  the  journey,  from  the 
time  we  left  Akabah  until  we  had  passed  through  Edom  and  entered 
Canaan. 


CHAPTER  V. 

A  SEARCH  FOR   KADESH. 

The  Site  of  Kadesh  Discussed. — Dr.  H.  Clay  Trumbull's  Visit  there. — The  Journey  from 
Petra  across  Wady  Arabah. — 'Aiu  El  Weibeh. — The  Grave  of  Miriam. — The  "Holy 
Tree." — Near  the  Borders  of  Canaan.— Lost  in  the  Wilderness. — 'Ain  Qadees 
Passed  by. — An  Oasis  Found. — Desert  Wandering. — A  Rain  Storm — Imprisoned 
by  the  Ishmaelites. — Traces  of  the  *'  Wandering. "—In  Sight  of  Palestine. — The 
''Plain  of  Mamre"  and  the  "Brook  Eshcol."— Return  to  Kadesh.— Up  Wady 
Arabah  to  the  Wilderness  of  Moab. — **  The  Mountain  of  Nebo  "  and  the  "  Top 
of  Pisgah  "  Discussed. — Return  to  the  Plain  of  Mamre. 

^^  rriHE  people  removed  from  Hazeroth  and  pitched  in  the  wilder- 
-*-  ness  of  Paran,"  which  is  "  the  wiklemess  of  Zin,  which  is  Ka- 
desh." And  where  is  Kadesh  ?  Learned  travellers  and  students  have 
located  it  at  nearly  twenty  places.  Dean  Stanley  and  his  followers 
believed  that  Petra  is  Kadesh;  Dr.  Edward  Robinson  much  earlier 
expressed  his  conviction  that  it  is  at  'Ain  el  Weibeh,  in  a  region  about 
two  days'  camel  journey  west  of  Petra,  on  the  edge  of  the  vast  wady 
which  stretches  from  the  Gulf  of  Akabali  to  the  Dead  Sea.  Many 
years  ago  claims  were  made  by  Dr.  Rowlands  for  'Ain  Qadees,  an  oasis 
still  farther  west  than  'Ain  el  Weibeh,  and  south  of  it.  This  last  site 
has  been  proved  by  Dr.  H.  Clay  Trumbull  to  hold  the  best  evidences 
of  being  the  much  sought-for  locality.  The  story  of  his  visit  thither, 
and  the  full  measure  of  his  proofs.  Dr.  Trumbull  sets  forth  earnestly 
and  eloquently  in  his  monograph,  published  in  1884,  entitled  "  Kadesh- 
Bamea."  Only  those  who  have  wandered  in  the  desert  as  he  did,  with 
the  strain  of  a  single  idea  controlling  every  nerve,  can  fully  understand 
the  joy  which  he  felt  when  coming  upon  a  site  so  long  sought  for.  I 
am  permitted  to  quote  his  own  words: 

"  Out  from  the  baiTen  and  desolate  stretch  of  the  burning  desert 
waste  we  had  come  with  a  magical  suddenness  into  an  oasis  of  verdure 
and  beauty,  unlooked  for  and  hardly  conceivable  in  such  a  region.  A 
carpet  of  grass  covered  the  ground.     Fig-trees,  laden  with  fruit  nearly 


118  IW  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

ripe  enough  for  eating,  were  along  the  shelter  of  the  southern  hillside. 
Shrub's  and  flowers  showed  themselves  in  variety  and  profusion.  Eun- 
ning  water  gurgled  under  the  waving  grass.  We  had  seen  nothing 
like  it  since  leaving  Wady  Fayran ;  nor  was  it  equalled  in  loveliness 
of  scene  by  any  single  bit  of  landscape,  of  like  extent,  even  there. 

"  Standing  out  from  the  earth-covered  limestone  hills  at  the  north- 
eastern sweep  of  this  picturesque  recess,  was  to  be  seen  the  '  large 
single  mass,  or  a  small  hill  of  solid  rock,'  which  Eowlands  looked  at 
as  the  cliff  \_Sel  a']  smitten  by  Moses,  to  cause  it  to  '  give  forth  his 
water,'  when  its  flowing  stream  had  been  exhausted.  From  underneath 
this  ragged  spur  of  the  northeasterly  mountain  range  issued  the  now 
abundant  stream. 

"  A  circular  well,  stoned  up  from  the  bottom  with  time-worn  lime, 
stone  blocks,  was  the  flrst  receptacle  of  the  water.  A  marble  watering, 
trough  was  near  this  well,  better  finished  than  the  troughs  at  Beer^ 
sheba,  but  of  like  primitive  workmanship.  The  mouth  of  this  well 
was  only  about  three  feet  across,  and  the  water  came  to  within  three  or 
four  feet  of  the  top.  A  little  distance  westerly  from  this  well,  and 
down  the  slope,  was  a  second  well,  stoned  up  much  like  the  first,  but 
of  greater  diameter;  and  here  again  was  a  marble  watering-trough. 
A  basin  or  pool  of  water  larger  than  either  of  the  wells,  but  not  stoned 
up  like  them,  was  seemingly  the  principal  watering-place.  It  was  a 
short  distance  southwesterly  from  the  second  well,  and  it  looked  as  if 
it  and  the  two  wells  might  be  supplied  from  the  same  subterranean 
source — the  springs  under  the  rock.  Around  the  margin  of  this  pool, 
as  also  around  the  stoned  wells,  camel  and  goat  dung — as  if  of  flocks 
and  herds  for  centuries — was  trodden  down  and  commingled  with  the 
limestone  dust  so  as  to  form  a  solid  plaster-bed.  Another  and  yet 
larger  pool,  lower  down  the  slope,  was  supplied  with  water  by  a  stream 
which  rippled  and  cascaded  along  its  narrow  bed  from  the  upper  pool ; 
and  yet  beyond  this,  westward,  the  water  gurgled  away  under  the 
grass,  as  we  had  met  it  when  we  came  in,  and  finally  lost  itself  in  the 
parching  wady  from  which  this  oasis  opened.  The  water  itself  was 
remarkably  pure  and  sweet,  unequalled  by  any  we  had  found  after 
leaving  the  Nile. 

"  There  was  a  New  England  look  to  this  oasis,  especially  in  the 
flowers  and  grass  and  weeds,  quite  unlike  anything  we  had  seen  in  the 
peninsula  of  Sinai." 


A  SEARCH  FOR  KADESH.  119 

A  year  after  Dr.  Trumbull's  visit,  while  journeying  from  Petra  to 
Palestine  with  the  same  dragoman  who  accompanied  him,  I  crossed 
the  Wady  Arabah  with  the  hope  of  finding  'Ain  Qadees,  and  bringing 
away  some  photographs  of  it.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the  route  taken 
had  "never  been  travelled  over  by  white  man,"  and  was  through  a 
country  where  the  Bedouin  tribes  were  "  at  war  with  each  other."  One 
afternoon,  while  I  was  in  Petra,  a  noble-looking  Bedouin  came  riding 
in  alone  on  horseback.  He  seemed  very  much  at  home,  and  very 
superior  to  the  demons  whose  torments  I  endured  there  for  four  days. 
He  proved  to  be  Sheikh  Ouida,  from  Gaza,  and  was  the  tax-gatherer  for 
the  Government.  His  errand  to  Petra  was  to  collect  the  annual  tax 
due  upon  the  sheep,  goats,  and  camels — including  the  stolen  ones — 
then  in  the  possession  of  the  Petra  Bedouins.  He  declared  that  he 
had  "  seen  'Ain  Qadees,  from  the  top  of  a  hill,  more  than  once  when 
on  the  journey  homeward  from  Petra,"  and  volunteered  to  act  as  our 
escort  thither.  His  services  were  thereupon  engaged  for  four  days,  at 
two  pounds  sterling  per  day.  In  due  course  we  set  out  upon  the 
search.  Our  contract  with  the  Akabah  sheikh  was  to  go  by  Nakl  and 
Gaza,  but  we  persuaded  his  men  to  follow  our  wishes  at  our  risk.  It 
was  a  dreary  camel-ride  across  the  Arabah.  There  was  little  to  divert 
us  except  the  Gaza  escort,  who  "  played  "  with  his  horse  frequently  for 
our  entertainment.  The  short,  sagacious  animal  could  gallop  uphill 
as  easily  as  he  could  go  down,  and  was  well  drilled  in  the  exercises  of 
the  tournament.  He  had  a  decided  advantage  over  the  camel.  Some- 
times he  and  his  rider  would  fly  over  the  hill  ahead,  and  get  beyond 
our  sight.  When  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  rise  they  had  crossed; 
we  would  see  them  standing  upon  the  top  of  another  one,  far  away. 
"We  could  tell  our  own  guide  by  the  manner  in  which  he  held  his  long 
spear,  a  signal  agreed  upon  between  us.  After  our  conflict  with  the 
fellahin.at  Petra,  we  were  somewhat  apprehensive  of  an  attack.  More- 
over, we  were  in  an  unknown  country,  where  the  Bedouins  were  said  to 
be  at  war.  "Watchfulness,  then,  was  incumbent.  Once  Sheikh  Ouida 
came  galloping  back  to  us  with  the  report  that  a  company  of  Bedouins 
who  were  not  "  sahib  "  (friendly)  were  coming.  They  came,  but  they  ex- 
changed salutations  with  us  without  offering  to  molest  us  or  our  Aka- 
bah attendants.  Indeed,  both  parties  seemed  glad  to  get  away.  When 
in  doubt  as  to  his  direction,  our  guide  planted  his  spear  among  the 
rocks  on  the  hill-top,  made  his  horse  fast  to  it,  and  descended  into  the 


120  IK  8GBIPTUBE  LANDS, 

valley  on  foot,  "to  save  tlie  horse,  who  mig-ht  become  too  thirsty." 
At  other  times,  when  he  found  the  way  too  rough  for  his  red-topped 
boots,  he  planted  his  spear  where  we  could  see  it,  and  rode  until  he 
reached  a  neighboring  hill  to  reconnoitre.  In  this  way  we  were  guided 
along  the  proper  road,  and  made  to  feel  comfortable  at  all  times,  from 
the  fact  that  our  cautious  leader  never  permitted  himself  to  be  long 
out  of  our  sight ;  or,  if  he  did,  he  left  some  signal  in  view  to  prove  that 
he  was  never  unmindful  of  our  welfare.  Thus  we  were  confident  of 
being  as  safe  as  possible,  and  were  content  to  go  on,  even  through  a 
country  known  to  be  infested  by  tribes  of  Bedouins  unfriendly  to  those 
from  the  Akabah  country,  as  were  our  attendants. 

On  the  morning  of  the  third  day  the  scenery  began  to  grow  more 
beautiful.  The  sun  had  crossed  the  hills  of  Edom  and  was  doing  his 
best  to  bring  out  the  gaudy  colors  of  Zin.  To  the  north  the  mountains 
of  Moab  rose  splendidly,  and  it  was  so  clear,  that,  had  we  been  at  a  suf- 
ficient elevation,  we  could  have  seen  the  Dead  Sea.  Standing  like  a 
sentinel  between  the  two  ranges,  topped  by  the  tomb  of  Aaron,  was 
*'  Jebel  Haroun,"  the  Mount  Hor  of  the  Mohammedans.  We  had  en- 
camped near  the  western  border  of  the  Arabah.  At  9  o'clock  a.m.  we 
came  to  a  bright  oasis,  where  our  guide  stood  crying  out,  "  Moya 
henna !  "  ("  Water  here  !  ").  It  is  a  long,  narrow,  green  spot,  with  an 
abundance  of  scrub-palms,  reeds,  rushes,  grasses,  and  shrubs  growing 
about  it,  wild  and  thick.  There  also  is  a  fountain  or  well,  very  small 
and  very  shallow,  sunk  in  the  mother-rock.  This  is  Ain  el  Weibeh, 
the  place  considered  by  Dr.  Edward  Robinson  to  be  Kadesh-Barnea, 
where  Moses  was  commanded  to  speak  to  a  rock  for  water  (Numbers 
XX.)  ;  where  Miriam  died ;  where  Moses  and  Aaron,  within  sight  of  the 
mountains,  which  some  of  the  Hebrews  tried  to  pass  over  in  order  to 
reach  the  longed-for  country,  were  told  that  they  should  not  "  enter  " 
the  Promised  Land. 

But  a  short  distance  away  from  the  well  is  a  mound  covered  with 
juniper  bushes.  This  is  revered  by  the  Bedouins  as  "the  grave  of 
Miriam."  The  adjacent  soil  is  crusty,  like  newly  frozen  snow,  and 
breaks  easily  under  the  foot.  Although  the  water  here  is  unusually 
sportive  on  account  of  the  animal  life  in  it — "  living  water  "  in  a  truly 
realistic  sense — and  so  bitter  to  the  taste  that  no  one  could  censure 
Israel  for  murmuring,  we  were  obliged  to  fill  our  water-skins  with  a 
two-days'  supply,  for  we  knew  not  when  we  should  find  any  better. 


A  SEARCH  FOR  KADESH. 


121 


What  we  left  was  entirely  taken  up  by  the  camels,  and  'Ain  el  Weibeh 
became  an  exhausted  spring*.  More  than  once  it  happened  to  us  that 
the  tiny  spring-  happily  found  on  the  way  did  not  afford  enough  for 
man  and  beast.  When  there  was  abundance,  it  was  usual  for  all  to 
kneel  down  at  the  little  stream  and  drink  side  by  side.  Oasis  hunting 
sometimes  becomes  an  earnest  business  with  the  desert  traveller,  and 


w 

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m^: 

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^^. 

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-.  _._- \ — '—. '- : — ■   1    -  ■     ■■       --a 

•Ain  El  Weibeh. 


he  fully  understands  the  value  of  the  precious  element.  Frequently 
the  route  is  left  for  half  a  day  to  reach  water.  Sometimes  I  have  been 
shown  these  places  only  on  condition  that  I  would  "  not  tell  anybody." 
Where  the  w^ells  of  our  long-sighted  ancestors  still  exist,  the  traveller 
is  allowed  to  drink  what  he  needs  during  his  sojourn,  but  not  to  carry 
any  awaj^,  except  by  purchase.  To  "  pay  for  water  "  at  first  seems  an 
injustice  ;  and  yet,  when  fairly  considered,  it  will  appear  right,  for  the 
supply  is  not  always  amj)le.  It  is  sometimes  quite  a  risk  to  allow 
anyone  to  draw  two  or  three  barrels  of  water  from  a  well,  especially 


122 


11^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


when  it  may  be  six  or  eight  months  before  the  heavens  will  visit  the 
land  with  anything-  like  a  cloud-break.  In  a  desert  journey  of  forty-five 
days  during  March  and  April,  I  saw  but  two  "  showers,"  and  the  longer 
was  only  forty -five  seconds  in  duration. 

Again,  when  Moses  was  directed  for  his  long  journey  in  the  Mount 
Seir  region,  among  other  things  the  Divine  dictum  enjoined  (Deuteron- 
omy ii.  6),  "  Ye  shall  buy  meat  of  them  for  money,  that  ye  may  eat ; 


The  "  Holy  Tree  "  near  the  Borders  of  Canaan. 


and  ye  shall  also  buy  water  of  them  for  money,  that  ye  may  drink."  So 
it  will  seem  that  this  old-time  custom  is  still  followed,  and  the  desert 
traveller  must  submit  without  murmuring. 

There  was  no  evidence  that  the  dreary  region  round  about  'Ain  el 
Weibeh  had  been  inhabited,  and  it  would  require  a  great  deal  of  faith 
to  believe  that  it  ever  was.  Even  the  stones  about  the  well  had  all 
been  arranged  by  Nature,  and  not  by  man.  It  was  the  only  place  there- 
about that  could  be  thought  of  as  Kadesh-Bamea,  because  there  was  no 
other  water  visible  in  any  direction.  Such  a  spot  could  not  satisfy  any- 
one who  had  any  faith  in  Almighty  mercy. 

The  heat  was  intense,  and  our  departure  was  hastened.  Soon  after 
'Ain  el  Weibeh  is  left  behind,  the  country  westward  begins  to  rise  and 
the  forms  and  outlines  of  the  mountains  become  beautiful.  At  one 
spot  a  dead  but  "  holy  tree  "  was  foimd,  the  denuded  limbs  of  which 
added  to  the  picturesqueness  of  one  of  our  halting-places.  Ouida  de- 
clared that  "  It  was  there  when  Moses  came  along."  Our  camel -men 
protested  when  we  prepared  to  carry  away  some  of  the  fragments  which 
were  scattered  over  the  ground.  "  It  is  all  holy,"  they  said,  "  and  can 
be  removed  by  Allah  only."    A  pass  in  the  hills  beyond,  called  "  Nagb 


A  SEARCH  FOR  KADESH. 


123 


Weibeli,"  was  pointed  out  as 
"  the  place  where  the  spies  of 
Moses  passed  through." 

Lunch  that  day  was  eaten 
under  a  huge  pomegranate 
tree;  this  was  full  of  blos- 
soms, though  almost  leafless. 
At  night  w^e  camped  in  a 
great  amphitheatre,  as  nearly 
circular  in  form  as  if  it  had 
been  quarried  so.     I  repeat- 


views  of  the  Oasis  near 


edly  inquired  of  Ouida 
how  near  we  were  to  'Ain 
Qadees,  but  he  could  not 
tell.     "It  is  coming,  sir," 
was  his  usual  answer.    Evi- 
dently we  were  lost  in  the 
wilderness,  and  under  that 
impression  we  lay  down  to 
rest.     The    next    morning 
the  route  led  us  up  a  flinty 
incline  until  we  seemed  to  be 
miles  in  the  air.    Then  a  long 
and  deep  ravine  was  followed, 
where  we  found  a  few  bushes, 
some  grass,  and  some  better 
water.  We  lost  no  time  in  ex- 
changing the  lively  product 
of  'Ain  el  Weibeh  for  a  purer 
article.     Coming  then  to  an- 
other rugged  ridge,  and  not 
knowing  what  better  to  do,  we 
then,  descending  on  the  other  side,  we  came  to  a  long  range 

Among  these  we  wandered  an  hour 


ascended  it 

of  lime-stone  and  flint-covered  hills 


124  /iV"  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

or  two,  when  suddenly  Ouida,  whom  we  had  not  missed,  came  galloping 
toward  us  crying,  "  Henna,  henna ! "  ("  Here,  here !  ").  Following  him 
through  a  narrow  passage  made  by  two  bright-colored  hills,  we  saw 
outspread  before  us  a  long,  nan-ow  oasis.  A  quick,  short  walk  of  our 
camels  brought  us  under  the  shade  of  its  fig-trees,  and  we  dismounted. 
Had  the  four  days  of  weary  searching  been  rewarded  by  a  rest  at  'Ain 
Qadees  ?  We  were  assured  by  Hedayah  that  it  was  so.  "  Yesterday," 
said  he,  "  you  saw  Dr.  Robinson's  Kadesh ;  but  now  you  are  in  Sheikh 
Trumbull's  Kadesh,  where  he  and  I  ate  dinner  together  a  year  ago." 
Our  lunch  was  made  ready,  but  my  anxiety  impelled  me  to  slight  it 
and  to  proceed  with  the  examination  of  the  place.  With  the  notes 
given  me  by  Dr.  Trumbull  in  hand,  I  walked  from  point  to  iDoint  and 
checked  off  the  proofs  I  found :  the  walled  wells ;  the  fig-trees  laden 
with  fruit ;  the  groves  of  palms  ;  the  rushes,  reeds,  grasses,  grain  ;  the 
running  stream — everything  as  described,  except  the  water-troughs 
and  the  "  large  single  mass,  or  a  small  hill  of  solid  rock."  The  water- 
troughs  are  sometimes  removed  by  the  Bedouins.  I  found  an  isolated 
mountain  several  hundred  feet  high,  and  in  its  side  a  gorge  with  a 
great  rock  at  its  farther  end.  At  the  base  of  this,  out  of  a  cavern  cut 
by  nature,  came  a  wide  stream-bed  which  followed  down  to  the  trees, 
passed  the  wells,  and  then  the  water  became  lost  among  the  grasses 
and  the  grain.  From  the  top  of  this  solid  rock,  not  hard  to  reach,  a 
wonderful  view  was  presented.  There  was  a  vast  plain  with  an  abun- 
dant and  varied  pasture,  such  as  we  had  not  seen  in  Arabia.  Euined 
buildings  dotted  the  hilltops  here  and  there,  and  low  stone  walls  ran 
along  the  hills,  one  above  the  other,  evidently  placed  to  keep  the 
soil  of  the  terraces  from  being  precipitated  to  the  wadies  by  the  tor- 
rents. The  neighborhood  became  more  and  more  interesting  as  I  ex- 
amined it,  and  my  heart  thrilled  with  delight  when  my  earnest  drago- 
man again  assured  me  that  "  This  is,  so  far  as  I  can  remember,  Dr. 
Trumbull's  Kadesh."  Thereupon  the  camera  was  applied  to  for  a  view 
of  the  well,  with  Ouida  and  his  horse ;  another  of  a  picturesque  sand- 
stone hill  which  lined  one  side  of  the  oasis  ;  and  then,  from  its  summit, 
views  of  the  plain  were  made  right  and  left.  Sheikh  Ouida  then  made 
his  departure,  and  the  last  we  saw  of  him  was  as  he  rode  his  little 
horse  around  the  beautiful  hill  on  his  journey  to  Gaza.  He  took  our 
gratitude  with  him,  but  he  was  not  entitled  to  it.  He  conducted  us  to 
an  oasis  several  miles  north  of  'Ain  Qadees,  where  probably  "  no  white 


A  SEARCH  FOR  KADESH.  125 

man  ever  trod ;  "  but  it  was  not  'Ain  Qadees.  To  mollify  his  chagrin 
when  I  assured  him  of  my  doubts,  the  amiable  Hedayah  named  the 
place  of  oiu'  visit  "  Sheikh  Wilson's  Kadesh,"  and  so  we  left  it.  Further 
search  would  have  been  made  if  I  had  not  felt  fairly  convinced  at  the 
time  that  we  had  found  what  we  were  seeking".  We  had  at  least  found 
what  must  be  a  close  neighbor  of  'Ain  Qadees.  With  the  belief  that 
we  had  been  even  more  successful,  however,  our  caravan,  which  had 
been  lost  in  the  desert  for  four  days,  ascended  the  hills  on  the 
north  and  made  a  straight  cut  for  Hebron,  by  way  of  Beersheba. 
The  night  was  spent  near  some  ruins  of  buildings  on  the  edge  of 
the  plain  already  described.  The  next  day  the  flinty  inclines  of  the 
Negeb  country  gave  us  variety.  It  was  one  of  the  most  difficult 
climbs  we  made.  The  pass  that  we  ascended  led  to  another  exten- 
sive plain,  where  again  ruins  were  seen,  and  where  the  same  system 
of  low  walls  prevailed.  There  were  miles  of  these  walls,  even  then 
in  as  shapely  condition  as  those  on  the  highway  between  New  York 
and  Boston.  The  tiers  ran  parallel  with  each  other  and  encircled 
the  hills  far  up  toward  their  tops.  Following  this  plain  is  another 
and  lower  range  of  mountains.  After  reaching  the  top  of  the  rocky 
pass  which  was  selected  as  the  most  comfortable  for  the  ascent,  a 
remarkable  transition  scene  was  presented.  Instead  of  steep  inclines, 
bleak  and  bare  of  everything  but  a  confusion  of  limestone  and  flint,  the 
other  side  was  green  with  grass,  dotted  with  millions  of  wild  flowers 
of  almost  every  known  color.  The  sight  was  absolutely  overpowering. 
Surely  none  more  gratifying  could  meet  the  gaze  of  the  weary  moun- 
tain-climber who  had  not  had  an  hour  free  from  anxiety,  or  a  sight  of 
a  flower,  for  two  weeks. 

At  noon  that  day  we  lunched  seated  upon  the  bank  of  an  active 
stream.  Just  below  us  the  water  made  a  downward  leap  of  a  dozen 
feet.  The  food  was  spread  upon  a  rug,  nature-woven,  of  white  daisies, 
red  poppies,  and  blue,  yellow,  white,  and  lilac  flowers,  all  as  delicate 
and  tiny  and  wild  as  our  own  sweet  heralds  of  spring.  AVe  sat  on  the 
border  of  the  Promised  Land,  and  could  easily  see  its  charming  undu- 
lations many  miles  ahead.  Toward  night  a  thunder-shower  seemed  to 
be  coming  up  from  the  south.  A  wide,  deep  wady  was  crossed  that 
looked  as  if  it  had  never  made  way  for  a  gallon  of  water  since  its  crea- 
tion. The  tents  were  pitched  for  the  night  upon  a  high  mound  covered 
with  grass  and  flowers.     During  the  night  the  expected  rain  fell,  and 


126  7iV^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

that  dry  wady  became  a  deep  and  wide  and  roaring-  river  for  many 
miles  of  its  length,  thus  making*  ns  witness  to  another  one  of  those 
quick  transitions  which  come  with  the  spring-time  in  that  wonderful 
region.  We  followed  the  newly-born  stream  for  some  time  next  day, 
and  forded  a  number  of  its  busy  tributaries  while  they  brought  in  their 
muddy,  foaming  toll  from  the  mountain  sides.  Parts  of  the  plain  were 
submerged  by  the  overflow,  and  the  poor  little  flowers  had  a  discourag- 
ing time  of  it.  Their  fate  was  a  grim  augury  of  our  own ;  for,  a  few 
houi's  after,  we  found  ourselves  encroaching  upon  the  land  of  the  Aza- 
zimehs,  the  descendants  of  Ishmael,  and  were  overwhelmed  by  a  storm 
of  abuse  from  a  delegation  of  the  tribe,  who,  having  sighted  us  afar  off, 
stood  awaiting  us  at  the  ford  of  the  river  which  led  toward  Beersheba. 
Practically  we  were  made  prisoners,  and  remained  so  a  good  part  of  two 
days.  A  poorer  and  more  degraded  tribe  does  not  exist  than  the  Aza- 
zimeh  Bedouins — even  the  fellahin  of  Petra  are  better  off;  but  they 
make  up  for  it  in  impudence  and  bluster.  Everyone  who  drives  a 
camel  into  their  territory  is  attacked  and  abused  and  treated  as  a  spy. 
The  sheikh  of  the  tribe  had  recently  been  killed  in  a  tribal  war,  and  his 
place  had  been  taken  by  a  young  aspirant  who  was  as  large  as  a  verita- 
ble son  of  Anak,  and  who  was  as  insolent  as  he  was  large.  He  declared 
that  our  attendants,  who  were  Haiwatt  Bedouins  from  Akabah,  were  at 
war  with  the  Azazimehs  and  could  not  be  allowed  to  cross  the  territory. 
"  Will  you,  then,  supply  us  camels  to  take  us  across  to  Hebron  ?  " 
"  No  ;  we  have  no  camels  of  our  own.  They  have  all  been  stolen  from 
us."  "  What,  then,  must  we  do  ?  "  "  You  may  proceed  to  Hebron  if 
you  like." 

This  practically  prevented  us  from  going  on.  Not  until  the  night 
of  the  second  day  could  this  dispute  be  settled.  At  last  it  was  agreed 
that  for  backsheesh  a  messenger  should  go  to  the  camp  of  the  Teyahahs 
in  the  adjoining  territory  and  engage  camels  for  the  removal  of  our 
luggage.  No  day  in  Petra  held  more  anxiety  than  this  one  did ;  for 
parting  with  the  mutinous  wretches  into  whose  hands  we  had  volun- 
tarily placed  ourselves  at  Akabah,  compromising  with  those  who  held 
us  prisoners,  and  arranging  with  the  new-comers,  required  an  amount  of 
intolerable  yelling  and  bluster  which  was  more  interesting  than  pleas- 
ant. Swords,  pistols,  clubs,  spears,  fists,  and  guns  were  all  used ;  but 
nobody  was  hurt — very  much.  Even  the  moon  looked  troubled  by  the 
time  we  made  our  departure.    If  such  people  infested  this  region  when 


A  Modern   Hagar. 


A  search:  foe  kadesh.  129 

the  spies  came  this  way,  it  is  not  so  wonderful  that  they  returned  to 
Moses  and  said,  "  We  were  in  our  own  sight  as  ^asshoppers,  and  so  we 
were  in  their  sight."  Certainly  my  long-felt  sympathy  for  Hagar  and 
Ishmael  was  much  shaken  by  my  dealings  with  their  descendants. 
Nothing  could  be  more  lovely,  however,  than  the  region  reached  a  day's 
journey  farther  north,  when  in  the  neighborhood  of  "  the  brook  Eshcol." 
The  land  rolls  through  "  green  pastures  "  and  "  beside  the  still  waters." 
The  wide  valleys  were  clothed  with  verdure,  spotted  with  daisies,  but- 
tercups, dandelions,  poppies  white  and  red,  and  many  other  flowers. 
Large  flocks  were  there,  attended  by  their  shepherds  ;  the  f ellahin  were 
at  work,  and  the  women,  tall  and  erect,  were  everywhere  carrying  water 
in  jars  upon  their  heads.  The  fields  were  protected  from  the  torrents 
by  stone  walls  such  as  we  saw  in  the  wilderness,  and  olive  groves  and 
vineyards  abounded.  It  was  a  grateful  scene,  made  more  so  by  the  re- 
semblance of  the  gray-sided  hills  to  those  of  good  old  Massachusetts. 
Each  vineyard  of  Eshcol  was  protected  by  a  high  stone  wall ;  in  every 
one  was  a  low  stone  structure  which  served  as  the  house  of  the  attend- 
ant. The  roof  was  the  watch-tower,  whereupon  the  watcher  spent  the 
day,  to  keep  the  birds  and  the  Bedouins  away  from  the  fruit.  Nestled 
away  down  in  the  valley  below  lies  Hebron,  "  in  the  plain  of  Mamre." 
There,  reaching  across,  is  the  old  camping-ground  of  the  patriarchs, 
and  in  the  distance,  towering  above  everything  else  except  the  sur- 
rounding hills,  are  the  minarets  of  the  mosque  which  covers  the  cave  of 
Machpelah. 

It  must  be  that  I  stood  close  to  where  the  spies  passed  into  the 
Promised  Land  and  saw  some  of  the  country  which  they  searched  for 
forty  days.  It  seemed  unusually  beautiful  to  one  who  had  been  TVTest- 
ling  for  a  hundred  days  with  desert-travel ;  and  it  was  not  hard  to  be- 
lieve that  it  flowed  "  with  milk  and  honey."  But  if  we  are  to  follow  the 
traditional  track  of  the  Israelites  into  Palestine  we  must  not  yet  go 
doAvn  to  Hebron.  For  the  sake  of  history  we  will  allow  our  itinerary 
to  lead  us  back  to  Kadesh — to  the  historical  departure  of  the  Israelites 
for  the  land  of  Canaan.  Their  nomadic  life  was  about  to  be  changed 
for  the  more  comfortable  one  of  the  Promised  Land.  But  how  were 
they  to  get  there  ?  They  could  follow  up  the  "Wady  Arabah  until  they 
arrived  near  to  the  Dead  Sea,  and  then  continue  among  the  cliffs  of 
Moab  on  the  east,  or  they  could  wind  through  the  equally  diflicult 

ravines  on  the  west ;  but  both  routes  were  very  difficult  and  dangerous, 
9 


130  m  SCRIPTURE  Lands. 

because  of  the  opposition  they  mig-ht  meet  from  the  dwellers  in  the 
land.  They  were  refused  a  passage  through  the  land  of  Edom,  and 
there  was  but  one  route  left  for  them  to  follow :  that  was  to  retrace 
their  steps  southward  to  Akabah,  then  go  by  the  wilderness  of  Moab. 
The  route  is  clearly  defined  in  Deuteronomy  ii.  8,  as  follows :  "  And 
when  we  passed  by  from  our  brethren  the  children  of  Esau,  which 
drwelt  in  Seir,  through  the  way  of  the  plain  from  Elath  [Akabah],  and 
from  Ezion-gaber  [at  the  north  end  of  the  Gulf  of  Akabah],  we  turned 
and  passed  by  the  way  of  the  wilderness  of  Moab." 

A  wide  plain  will  meet  the  view  of  the  modern  traveller  as  he  comes 
up  from  the  south  to  the  wilderness  of  Moab.  This  plain  rises  gradu- 
ally until  it  approaches  the  Jordan,  where  the  western  border  reaches 
nearly  four  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  Standing  at  that  height,  one 
obtains  an  impressive  idea  of  the  vast  depression  of  the  Jordan  Yalley 
and  of  the  Dead  Sea.  The  noble  mountains  which  run  north  and  south 
form  a  wall,  as  it  were,  between  the  Jordan  Valley  and  the  farther  east. 
The  bare  and  rocky  mountains  of  Gilead  seem  the  nearer :  so  near  are 
they  that  one  with  good  eyes  may  see  how  the  descending  torrents 
have  torn  deep  into  their  sides,  and  in  places  he  may  discern  the 
differences  between  the  species  of  trees  in  the  forests  which  clothe  the 
plains  lying  at  the  mountain  bases.  Now  the  broad  expanses  seem  to 
sink  far,  far  out  of  focus ;  and  then  they  yield  again  to  the  rocks  and 
barren  fields,  with  only  an  occasional  thicket  occurring  to  relieve  the 
dull  monotony.  Eising  high  on  the  right  of  the  prospect  is  a  range 
of  mountains  leading  southward,  from  which  somewhere  rise  the  tops 
of  Mount  Pisgah  and  the  mountain  of  Nebo.  Beyond  these,  and  back 
to  the  south  again,  are  the  bleak  and  sunburned  summits  of  the 
Arabian  Mountains,  so  far  away,  and  yet  seemingly  very  near.  The 
desert  plains,  the  uneasy  sands,  the  drought-seamed  soil,  and  the  tor- 
rent-worn wadies,  thousands  in  number,  combine  to  suggest  a  scene 
where  active  force  has  been  suspended  and  the  whole  petrified  by  the 
sudden  grip  of  a  dreadful  power  all  unseen — as  though  some  purga- 
torial air  had  blown  across  it  and  scorched  out  its  life  while  the  dra- 
matic changes  were  going  on.  The  wild  roar  of  the  ocean,  with  its 
display  of  power,  does  not  move  the  soul  more  than  does  the  awful 
silence  of  a  Moabitish  landscape.  Both  alike  seem  to  be  placed  where 
God  makes  his  abode,  where  Nature's  mighty  wonders  are  most  im- 
pressively revealed. 


A  SEARCH  FOB  KADESH.  131 

Many  an  earnest  and  industrious  explorer  has  travelled  this  land  of 
Moab  with  the  hope  of  locating"  "  the  mountain  of  Nebo  "  and  the  "  top 
of  Pisgah."  The  Bible  record  seems  to  place  them  very  exactly:  "  The 
Lord  showed  him  all  the  land  of  Gilead,  unto  Dan,  and  all  Naphtali, 
and  the  land  of  Ephraim,  and  Manasseh,  and  all  the  land  of  Judah, 
unto  the  utmost  sea,  and  the  south,  and  the  plain  of  the  valley  of 
Jericho,  the  city  of  palm-trees,  unto  Zoar."  That  included  Mount 
Hermon  on  the  north ;  from  Gaza  to  Sidon  on  the  west,  and  from 
below  Hebron  on  the  south.  The  effort  of  the  explorer  has  been  to 
find  a  mountain  range  with  a  summit — not  necessarily  the  highest  one 
of  all — from  which  all  the  country  included  in  the  Bible  record  may  be 
made  out.  Agreeing  that  there  is  no  presumption  in  the  desire  to  see 
with  the  modem  eye  as  much  as  was  divinely  revealed  to  Moses,  the 
accounts  of  those  who  have  made  the  trial  are  exceedingly  interesting. 
American  explorers  have  been  the  most  industrious  in  this  search,  and 
there  seems  to  be  no  doubt  that  Professor  John  A.  Paine  is  entitled  to 
the  highest  credit  for  the  information  he  has  given  us  concerning  the 
identification  of  Mount  Pisgah.  From  his  valuable  record,  which  fills 
one  hundred  and  fifty  pages  of  the  "  Journal  of  the  Palestine  Explora- 
tion Society  "  (January,  1875),  we  learn  that  the  noted  traveller  gathered 
his  proofs  by  personal  investigation.  Several  summits  were  ascended, 
and  in  turn  were  found  wanting.  Patiently  and  persistently  the  work 
went  on.  All  the  clues  obtained  from  the  traditions  of  the  wandering 
Bedouins  and  from  the  beckonings  of  Nature  were  followed,  and  some- 
times they  led  to  nothing  more  reliable  than  a  mirage.  At  last  a 
mountain  headland  with  a  divided  summit  w^as  found,  called  Jebel 
Siaghah — "  a  narrow  foreland  bounded  by  ledges  and  steeps  on  the 
north  and  west,  falling  quickly  down  to  Wady  'Ayun  Mousa  far  below." 
From  this  mountain,  "  2,360  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,"  the  "  mag- 
nificent display  "  is  described  as  including,  briefly,  the  following : 

"  Two-thirds  of  the  Dead  Sea  .  .  .  the  Negeb  Moses  saw ;  in  a 
direction  a  little  south  of  southwest  ...  a  perspective  of  scarcely 
a  shorter  distance  than  toward  the  north ;  the  hill  country  of  Judah ; 
the  country  around  Hebron ;  up  to  Bethlehem ;  with  no  background 
but  the  sky,  the  spires  of  Jerusalem  stand  out  plainer  than  ever ;  '  as 
far  as  Bethany ' ;  in  the  north,  hills  blend  in  blueness  that  lie  not  far 
from  Nazareth,  and  look  down  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Gennesaret ;  there 
is  the  Jordan  ;  Peraea ;  Bethabara ;  the  point  of  Gibeon  on  the  right ; 


132  Ili  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

the  dilapidated  tower  of  Bethel ;  the  hig-h  mountains  of  Ephraim  un- 
dulate along  for  a  wide  distance  until  they  end  in  Gerizim  and  Ebal ; 
the  hills  of  Manasseh  fall  into  east-and-west  chains  which  run  boldly 
out  toward  the  valley  and  present  many  picturesque  features ;  the 
mountains  before  Gilboa  have  risen  still  more  ;  beyond  these,  the  hills 
descend  to  the  lower  highlands  of  Galilee,  till  they  sink  off  in  the 
plateaus  of  the  northern  portion  of  Dan." 

Thus  we  see  that  the  views  obtained  by  Professor  Paine  embrace  all 
the  territory  included  in  the  biblical  account,  except  that  the  great  sea 
was  not  visible.  Since  my  journey,  the  Eev.  George  E.  Post,  M.D.,  of 
the  Syrian  medical  college  connected  with  the  American  mission  at 
Beyrout,  and  one  of  my  companions  to  Mount  Sinai,  has  conducted 
a  scientific  expedition  to  the  Moab  country.  He  visited  the  sites 
described  by  Professor  Paine,  and  made  drawings  of  Nebo  and  Pis- 
gah.  His  entire  report,  with  engravings,  appears  in  a  recent  issue  of 
the  "Eeport  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Society."  It  is  valuable, 
and  full  of  thrilling  interest.  Dr.  Post  thinks  that  Nebo  is  north  of 
Siaghah. 

It  must  be  that  Jesus  saw  Mount  Nebo  when  he  visited  the  cities 
of  Decapolis,  as  described  further  on.  Let  us  hope  that  some  enthusi- 
astic explorer  will  make  all  these  sacred  places  more  familiar  to  us  in 
the  near  future.  "We  must  return  to  the  "  Plain  of  Mamre,"  that  we 
may  enter  Palestine  according  to  the  usual  itinerary. 


CHAPTEE  YL. 

THREE   JEWISH    KINGS. 

The  Judge  Samuel. — Saul,  the  Son  of  Kish. — Saul  Anointed  by  Samuel. — Rachel's  Se- 
pulchre.— King  Saul. — Jonathan, — War  on  all  Sides.  —  Saul' s  Sin. — David  the 
Shepherd. — The  Field  of  the  Shepherds  near  Bethlehem. — The  Jewish  Warrior. — 
The  Death  of  Goliath. — David  the  Musician. — David  the  Outlaw. — At  the  Cave  of 
Adullam. — Raiding  in  the  Wilderness  of  En  gedi. — A  "Hospitality"  Service. — Saul 
Again  in  David's  Power. — Again  a  Wandering  Bedouin. — Fight  with  the  Amalek- 
ites. — The  Philistines  Fight  Saul  at  Mount  Gilboa. — Saul  and  Jonathan  Dead. — : 
David  Punishes  the  Assassins  of  Ish  bosheth. — David  King  in  Hebron. — Jerusalem 
Besieged  and  Taken. — Prosperous  King  David  in  Jerusalem. — The  Rebellion  and 
Death  of  Absalom.— The  "Last  Words"  of  David, — Solomon  is  Anointed  at  Gihon. 
— Solomon  the  Merchant-King, 

TN  Jewish  history,  Samuel,  Saul,  David,  and  Solomon  stand  out  like 
great  mountains  in  a  plain — like  Gilboa,  Tabor,  Lebanon,  and 
Hermon.  The  history  of  these  rulers  is  closely  bound  up  with  many  of 
the  places  we  have  visited,  and  hardly  a  hill  or  brook,  to  say  nothing" 
of  the  mountains  and  valleys  yet  to  come  under  our  notice,  fails  to 
recall  some  incident  of  their  romantic  career. 

Israel  seemed  content  with  Samuel's  government  for  a  time,  until 
the  work  grew  too  burdensome  for  him  and  he  sent  his  sons,  Joel  and 
Abiah,  as  his  deputies,  to  the  far  southern  districts,  with  their  head- 
quarters at  Beersheba.  They  proved  as  unpalatable  to  some  of  their 
constituents  as  a  modem  iDolitician ;  for,  says  the  Divine  Kecord,  they 
"  turned  aside  after  lucre,  and  took  bribes,  and  prevented  judgment." 
Then  arose  again,  more  strenuously  than  ever,  the  cry  from  the  elders 
and  from  the  people,  "  Make  us  a  king  to  judge  us,  like  other  nations ! " 
The  aged  Samuel  was  displeased  at  this  at  first.  Under  divine  direc- 
tion he  proceeded  to  project  before  the  people  a  long  diorama,  filled 
with  oriental  color,  of  the  evils  which  would  attend  a  kingdom.  Some 
of  their  sons  would  be  conscripted  to  serve  as  horsemen  for  the  royal 
chariots ;  others  would  be  required  to  run  before  the  chariots ;  many 
would  be  sent  to  fight  the  king's  battles ;  more  to  till  his  ground  and 


134  J]^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

g-ather  his  harvests ;  while  the  daughters  of  Israel  would  be  forced  to 
serve  as  confectionaries,  cooks,  and  bakers,  and  their  property  would 
be  confiscated ;  then  a  long"  chapter  of  other  grievances  would  follow. 
"  Nevertheless  the  people  refused  to  obey  the  voice  of  Samuel ;  and 
they  said  *  nay ;  but  we  will  have  a  king  over  us.' "  Samuel  "  re- 
hearsed '^  their  words  before  the  Lord.  A  king  was  named  to  reign 
over  Israel,  and  in  time  he  was  brought  into  Samuel's  presence  and 
anointed. 

The  scene  changes  now,  from  the  dwelling-place  of  the  aged 
prophet  to  that  of  one  of  the  husbandmen  of  the  tribe  of  Benjamin. 
This  husbandman,  whose  name  was  Kish,  was  prosperous,  for  he  was 
the  owner  of  live-stock,  and  he  had  servants.  Moreover,  he  had  been 
blessed  with  a  son  who  was  "  a  choice  young  man  and  a  goodly  .  .  . 
from  his  shoulders  upward  he  was  higher  than  any  of  his  people." 
His  name  was  Saul.  It  is  often  necessary,  in  Palestine,  for  the  hus- 
bandmen to  send  the  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  attended  by  shepherds 
far  from  the  homestead  for  pasture.  But  the  larger  animals — asses, 
camels,  and  so  on — when  not  in  service  upon  the  farm,  are  allowed  to 
stray  off  in  droves,  unattended,  to  find  their  food.  Sometimes  they  are 
allowed  to  wander  many  days  without  looking  after.  This  seems  like 
a  risky  business  in  a  country  like  Palestine,  for  the  law  of  the  Bedouin 
marauder  is,  "  if  you  see  anything  and  want  it,  and  can  get  it,  take  it, 
for  Allah  sent  it  to  you  and  it  is  yours."  You  may,  nevertheless,  fre- 
quently see  large  droves  of  asses  and  camels  grazing  together  far  away 
from  any  domicile,  with  no  attendant  to  look  after  them.  It  would  not 
be  so,  of  course,  if  "  war  "  were  expected  from  any  other  tribe.  The  cus- 
tom, whatever  its  advantages  may  be  to  the  Bedouin  peasant,  is  one 
which  oftentimes  causes  the  traveller  a  great  deal  of  inconvenience, 
for  it  is  also  the  law  that  no  tribe  shall  convey  travellers  through 
the  territory  of  another  tribe.  It  is  therefore  necessary  here,  as  in  the 
desert,  to  change  camels  and  attendants  whenever  you  come  upon  the 
borders  of  a  tribe.  More  than  once  I  have  been  forced  to  wait  on  this 
account  for  two  or  three  days,  until  the  camels  could  be  found  and 
brought  in.  But,  like  many  of  the  customs  of  the  modem  Bedouin, 
this  was  inherited  from  the  ancients.  On  one  occasion  the  asses  of 
Kish  were  lost— they  were  wanted  and  could  not  be  found.  It  fell  to 
the  lot  of  this  "  choice  young  man,"  accompanied  by  a  servant,  to  "  go 
seek  the  asses."    It  was  no  easy  undertaking,  for  the  country  is  a  rough 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  135 

one,  full  of  ravines  and  hills,  and  there  is  no  telling  where  a  dumb 
beast  may  wander  when  thirst  and  hunger  lead  it  to  use  its  will. 
Saul  and  his  servant,  according  to  the  record,  had  sought  the  lost 
animals  fruitlessly  for  several  days  over  the  mountains  of  Ephraim, 
when  Saul,  fearing  lest  his  father  should  be  worried  about  him,  pro- 
posed to  give  up  the  search  and  return  home.  They  were  then  in  the 
land  of  Zuph,  only  a  few  miles  from  Jerusalem.  They  doubtless  met 
many  people  on  the  highway,  and  from  one  of  these,  probably,  Saul's 
servant  had  learned  that  there  was  "  a  man  of  God  "  in  the  city  near 
by.  As  a  last  resort  it  was  proposed  to  go  and  consult  him,  for,  as  the 
servant  wisely  said,  "  peradventure  he  can  show  us  our  way  that  we 
shall  go."  The  "  man  of  God  "  was  Samuel,  who  was  then  engaged  on 
one  of  his  "  circuits."  The  coming  of  the  young  man  had  been  made 
known  to  the  seer  a  day  before  Saul  came.  The  people  were  engaged 
in  their  sacrificial  feast  at  the  time,  and  were  awaiting  the  presence  of 
Samuel,  without  whom  they  would  not  proceed,  when  Saul  arrived. 
The  greeting  which  the  travel-worn  young  man  met  with  must  have 
seemed  very  strange  to  him,  although  he  had  been  educated  to  rever- 
ence the  "  man  of  God,"  and  was  easily  taught  to  follow  his  instruc- 
tions. He  was  first  comforted  with  the  assurance  that  the  asses  were 
"  found,"  and  then  he  was  led  to  the  feast.  He  knew  of  the  popular 
clamor  for  a  king,  but  he  was  not  prepared  to  hear  Samuel  say :  "  On 
whom  is  all  the  desire  of  Israel  ?  Is  it  not  on  thee  and  all  thy  father's 
house  ?  "  What  must  have  been  his  feelings,  then,  when  he  found  him- 
self brought  into  the  parlor ;  given  the  chiefest  place ;  allowed  to 
share  the  portion  of  the  feast  reserved  for  the  "  man  of  God ;  "  called 
to  commune  in  private  with  the  seer ;  detained  over  night ;  accom- 
panied by  Samuel  next  day  part  way  on  his  journey  homeward  (still 
an  Arab  custom) ;  detained  another  day  while  the  servant  went  ahead ; 
kissed  by  Samuel ;  anointed  "to  be  captain ; "  and  not  only  directed 
how  further  to  proceed  on  his  journey,  but  also  told  what  signs  should 
happen  on  the  way,  to  reassure  him.  It  was  a  marvellous  experience. 
He  was  "  turned  into  another  man,"  and  "  God  gave  him  another  heart." 
This  interview  and  the  parting  of  the  two  notable  characters  took 
place  but  a  short  distance  from  Rachel's  Sepulchre,  about  two  miles 
south  of  Jerusalem,  and  a  short  mile  from  Bethlehem.  The  surround- 
ing country  cannot  have  changed  much  during  the  thirty  centuries 
which  have  passed  away  since,  unless  the  stones  have  increased.    But 


136 


IN-  8CBIPTURE  LANDS. 


now,  instead  of  the  "pillar"  that  Jacob  erected,  and  in  place  of  the  pyra- 
mid which  stood  there  in  the  seventh  century  in  memory  of  the  heart- 
broken Rachel,  there  is  a  small  building-  with  a  dome,  in  form  similar 
to  a  Mohammedan  wely  or  tomb  of  a  saint.  It  is  well  plastered  and 
whitewashed.  It  is  a  homely  structure,  but  it  is  a  shrine  reverenced, 
honored,  and  much  visited  by  Moslems,  Jews,  and  Christians.  If  there 
are  no  fanatical  pilgrims  about,  you  may  climb  to  its  roof  and  obtain 


•-'  V  ::>i.-**^"-*f:^; 


Rachel's  Sepulchre. 


a  very  satisfactory  view  of  the  undulating  and  hilly  country  around  it. 
Bethlehem  is  in  full  view,  and,  especially  at  nig-ht,  seems  broug-ht  very 
close  by  its  glimmering  lights  and  the  sounds  which  come  from  it, 
though  it  is  quite  a  mile  away.  In  one  quarter  or  another,  surely,  the 
very  place  where  Samuel  and  Saul  parted  must  be  seen,  for  the  eye 
may  take  in  all  there  is  until  the  hills  call  the  vision  to  a  halt.  Doubt- 
less Saul  was  familiar  with  every  foot  of  the  way.  He  travelled  it 
again  afterward  when  on  the  search  for  David.  The  rocky  walls  of  the 
neighboring  glens  and  the  rugged  sides  of  the  mountains  in  sight  no 
longer  echo  the  shouts  of  a  frenzied  king  or  the  command  of  a  trem- 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  137 

bling"  outlaw.  Instead,  the  cry  of  the  Muezzin  and  the  silver  tones  of 
the  convent-bell  comming-le  with  the  voices  of  the  young-  Sauls  who 
attend  the  flocks,  and  with  the  merry-making  of  the  olive  harvest  and 
the  vintage.  The  whole  prospect  is  full  of  historical  interest,  reaching 
from  the  time  when  Jacob  mourned  for  Rachel  to  the  day  when  the 
last  pilgrim  from  the  south  here  caught  his  first  glimpse  of  the  glitter- 
ing dome  on  Mount  Moriah  and  sighted  the  slender  minaret  which 
marks  the  summit  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.  The  "  Plain  of  Rephaim," 
where  the  Philistines  were  conquere4  by  David,  is  just  the  other  side 
of  the  hills  which  break  the  distance  in  our  view — but  we  are  making 
too  much  haste.  After  the  parting  with  Samuel,  Saul  found  two  men 
as  Samuel  had  predicted,  at  Rachel's  Sepulchre,  who  again  assured  him 
as  to  the  safety  of  his  father's  asses.  Then  he  proceeded  northward 
until  he  came  to  the  plain  of  Tabor,  where  three  men  met  him,  carry- 
ing three  kids,  three  loaves  of  bread,  and  a  bottle  of  wine.  Afterward 
he  overtook  a  company  of  prophets  who,  T\T.th  musical  instruments, 
were  coming  down  from  a  sacrificial  feast.  These  Saul  joined,  and 
prophesied  with  them,  all  as  Samuel  had  said  would  be  the  case.  After- 
ward Saul  went  to  Gilgal,  where  he  tarried  seven  days,  by  pre-arrange- 
ment  with  Samuel.  Then  followed  another  assemblage  of  the  people 
at  Mizpeh,  when  Samuel  announced  that  the  Lord  would  give  them  a 
king  and  that  they  must  select  him  by  lot.  .  .  .  Saul  was  chosen, 
but  the  choice  did  not  please  everybody.  The  hearts  of  some  were 
touched  for  Saul,  but  "  the  sons  of  Belial  despised  him  and  brought 
him  no  presents."  The  tribulations  of  royalty  began  with  Saul  at 
once.  "  But  he  held  his  peace."  He  projected  a  scheme  presently 
which  quelled  all  dissension,  and  caused  three  hundred  and  thirty  thou- 
sand men  to  rally  around  his  standard.  This  was  accomplished  by  a 
very  striking  kindergarten  lesson  which  seemed  much  to  affect  the 
children  of  Israel.  The  Bible  tells  the  story  very  graphically :  "  And 
he  took  a  yoke  of  oxen  and  hewed  them  in  pieces,  and  sent  them 
throughout  all  the  coasts  of  Israel  by  messengers,  saying,  '  Whosoever 
cometh  not  forth  after  Saul  and  after  Samuel,  so  shall  it  be  done  unto 
oxen.'  And  the  fear  of  the  Lord  fell  upon  the  people,  and  they 
caine  out  with  one  consent."  They  joined  Saul  in  the  battle  against 
the  Ammonites.  The  Ammonites  were  destroyed,  and  then,  at  Gilgal, 
his  people  "  made  Saul  king." 

Our  next  interview  with  the  young  king  is  at  a  period  two  years 


13S  Jli  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

after  his  reign  began.  Samuel's  affecting  farewell  address  was  still  fresh 
in  the  hearts  of  the  i3eople,  and  some  of  them  wished  that  they  had 
not  been  so  ready  to  exchange  the  counsel  and  help  of  an  experienced 
"  man  of  God  "  for  the  impulsive  leading  of  a  young  and  inexperienced 
king.  All  of  them  lost  both  heart  and  head  when  the  dreaded  Philis- 
tines came  into  their  country  and  encamped  at  Michmash  "  with  thirty 
thousand  chariots  and  six  thousand  horsemen,  and  people  as  the  sand 
which  is  on  the  sea-shore,  in  multitude."  Although  every  man  of 
Israel  had  been  trained  in  the  art  of  war  from  his  youth  up,  there 
wasn't  a  sword  or  a  spear  among  them  except  those  borne  by  Saul  and 
his  son  Jonathan.  No  wonder  that  part  of  them  stampeded  and  hid 
themselves  in  caves,  and  in  the  thickets,  and  in  the  high  places  and  in 
the  rocks,  or  that  others  fled  over  to  the  other  side  of  the  Jordan. 
Only  a  trembling  tithe  remained  with  Saul  at  Gilgal,  where  the  com- 
ing of  Samuel  was  looked  for.  Seven  days  went  by  and  Samuel  did 
not  come.  Saul  then  committed  his  first  great  blunder.  He  assumed 
the  priestly  vocation  and  offered  a  burnt  offering.  Samuel  came  while 
the  service  was  going  on.  He  reproved  the  king  for  his  foolishness 
and  disobedience,  and  predicted  the  downfall  of  his  kingdom.  Only 
six  hundred  men  were  with  Saul  now,  and  the  Philistines  were  making 
ready  for  an  attack.  Nothing  but  the  intervention  of  Providence  could 
save  Israel  now.  The  rescue  came  about  in  a  very  curious  way.  Jona- 
than and  his  armor-bearer  approached  the  camp  of  the  enemy,  and 
with  their  one  sword  and  one  spear  made  an  attack  upon  the  garrison. 
Twenty  Philistines  were  slaughtered  within  a  half-acre  of  ground. 
Their  fall  started  a  dreadful  panic  among  their  fellow^warriors.  They 
set  to  attacking  each  other  as  they  beat  a  retreat — "  every  man's  sword 
was  against  his  fellow,  and  there  was  a  very  great  discomfiture."  The 
frightened  Israelites  now  came  out  from  their  hiding  places,  and  were 
joined  by  those  who,  living  in  the  surrounding  country,  had  been 
pressed  into  the  service  of  the  Philistines,  They  followed  after  the 
enemy,  and  "  the  Lord  saved  Israel." 

Many  a  tedious  war  followed  this  one,  for  enemies  arose  and  gave 
battle  from  Moab,  from  Edom,  and  from  the  Amalekites  and  others, 
"  and  there  was  sore  war  against  the  Philistines  all  the  days  of  Saul." 
Samuel  continued  to  be  the  royal  counsellor.  It  was  a  mortification 
to  him,  in  his  declining  days,  to  see  how  the  indifference  and  coward- 
ice of  the  Israelites  had  caused  them,  century  after  century,  since  the 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS, 


139 


days  of  Joshua,  to  neglect  God's  command  given  to  Joshua,  to  wipe 
out  the  Canaanites  from  the  land  and  to  take  full  possession  of  it.  He 
remembered  particularly  what  "  Amalek  did  to  Israel "  in  the  land  of 
Eephidim — in  the  wilderness  of  Sinai ;  and  the  fact  that  the  judgment 
of  the  Lord  against  Amalek 
had  not  been  executed  by 
his  people  Israel,  led  him 
to  urge  Saul  to  go  and  so 
complete  the  work  that  not 
a  man,  woman,  infant,  ox, 
sheep,  camel,  or  ass  should 
remain  alive.  Saul  under- 
took this  work  with  an  army 
of  two  hundred  thousand 
footmen  and  ten  thousand 
men  of  Judah.  He  fell  up- 
on every  region  where  the 
children  of  Amalek  lived, 
and  followed  them  almost 
to  the   borders  of    Egypt. 

He  "  utterly  destroyed  all  the  people,"  but  he  took  Agag,  the  king, 
alive,  and  allowed  the  victorious  soldiers  to  help  themselves  to  the 
"  best  of  all  that  was  good."  Alas !  his  work  was  not  thorough. 
T\Tiat  he  did  was  looked  upon  as  rebellion.  Samuel  met  him  at  Gilgal 
after  the  battle  to  receive  his  report.  An  attempt  was  made  by  the 
guilty  king  to  defend  his  course,  but  his  plea  was  scorned,  and  he  was 
rejected  as  king.  Samuel  not  only  told  him  this  plainly,  but  added 
that  the  kingdom  had  been  given  to  a  neighbor  of  his,  who  was  a 
better  man.  Then  Samuel  hewed  Agag  in  pieces,  parted  with  Saul 
forever,  and  went  back  to  his  home  at  Ramah  to  mourn  for  Saul. 

"WTiile  all  these  affairs  of  state  were  going  on,  down  in  the  fields  of 
Bethlehem,  within  sight  of  where  Jesus  was  bom  more  than  a  thousand 
years  afterward,  a  handsome  youth  was  occupied  attending  his  father's 
sheep.  He  was  one  of  those  irrepressible  boys  whose  nature  was  not 
satisfied  by  the  passive  employments  of  a  shepherd  alone ;  so,  among 
other  things,  he  became  a  skilled  performer  on  the  harp.  Even  this 
did  not  satisfy  him,  for  he  wanted  to  be  a  soldier.  Three  of  his 
brothers  and  four  of  the  sons  of  his  older  sister  belonged  to  Saul's 


A  Bedouin  Shepherd-boy. 


140  IN  8CRIPTUBE  LANDS. 

army.  From  them  he  had  heard  a  great  deal  of  army  talk,  which  in- 
spired him,  and  caused  him  to  long-  for  the  life  of  the  warrior.  But  he 
was  a  dutiful  son,  and  the  desire  of  his  father  supplanted  his  own  in- 
clinations. It  makes  his  history  seem  very  real  to  visit  the  fields  just 
outside  of  Bethlehem,  say  toward  the  southeast.  At  first  the  slopes  of 
the  hills  seem  barren  and  lifeless ;  but  when  you  are  upon  them  you 
will  see  that  they  are  quite  green,  with  plenty  of  highly-tinted  flowers 
growing  in  families  everywhere.  The  monotony  of  the  scene  is  broken 
by  groups  of  olive-trees  and  the  flocks  of  sheep  which  gather  under 
them  in  the  heat  of  the  day.  You  may  see  young  shepherds  practising 
with  their  slings,  and  sometimes  putting  their  home-made  weapons  to 
a  use  which  you  had  not  suspected.  If  a  member  of  the  flock  strays 
too  far  away  from  his  fellows,  he  is  first  gently  called,  "  Tally-henna  ya 
giddi  "  (come  here,  you  kid),  but  if  that  does  not  avail,  he  is  brought  to 
his  senses  by  a  stone  sent  whizzing  after  him  from  the  shepherd's 
sling.  This  is  not  done  to  hurt  him,  but  to  warn  him.  If  the  recreant 
has  been  in  the  habit  of  playing  truant,  a  small  stone  is  aimed  directly 
at  his  wayward  body.  In  either  case  the  wanderer  quickly  takes  the 
hint  and  returns  to  his  flock.  By  such  practice  the  young  Bedouin 
becomes  so  very  skilful  with  his  sling  that  you  would  run  less  risk  in 
presenting  yourself  as  a  target  to  the  long  and  picturesque  gun  of  the 
Bedouin  husbandman  than  you  would  in  playing  Goliath  and  David 
with  his  shepherd  boy,  for  the  sling  is  always  ready  for  action,  while 
the  gun  seldom  is. 

In  one  of  the  Bethlehem  fields  you  may  see  the  ruins  of  a  strongly- 
built  stone  structure.  It  is  called  the  "  Shepherd's  Castle."  Great 
blocks  of  stone,  which  seem  to  have  formed  part  of  the  "castle,"  lie 
under  the  neighboring  olive-trees.  There  are  several  caves  close  by, 
which  are  used  now  for  the  protection  of  the  sheej)  during  the  colder 
weather.  The  long  line  of  dark  in  the  far  distance  is  a  part  of  the  hills 
of  Moab.  The  Dead  Sea  lies  sunken  near  their  western  base.  No 
place  made  familiar  by  the  history  of  David  is  very  far  away.  Indeed, 
the  major  portion  of  his  adventures,  which  occurred  before  he  was 
anointed  king,  took  place  within  fifteen  miles  of  the  spot  pictured  on 
page  141.  Here  David  was  when  Samuel  visited  the  house  of  Jesse, 
the  father  of  David — when  his  father  sent  for  him  to  come  home  and 
meet  the  man  of  God.  When  David  left  the  field  he  was  but  a  shep- 
herd lad.    When  he  went  back  to  his  duties  he  was  the  anointed  king 


THBEE  JEWISH  KIN08. 


141 


of  Israel.  As  quickly  as  the  great  shadow  which  lies  outspread  upon 
the  earth  on  the  easterly  side  of  a  mountain  or  of  a  pyramid  just  before 
sunset,  shifts — in  the  twinkling*  of  an  eye — to  the  west  the  instant  the 
sun  goes  down  and  the  influence  of  the  moon  beg-ins,  so  "  the  Spirit  of 
the  Lord  came  upon  David,"  and  at  the  same  time  "  departed  from 
Saul." 

I  have  always  pictured  David  in  my  mind  as  what  we  term  in  these 
modern  days  a  "  queer  "  boy.     He  was  a  shepherd-boy,  of  course ;   that 


Where  David  was  a  Shepherd,   near  Bethlehem. 


was  his  work  for  his  father.  But  anyone  who  reads  the  breathings  of 
his  soul,  which  have  been  preserved  on  record,  will  see  that  his  mind 
was  too  active  and  too  capable  to  find  enough  occupation  in  attending 
the  flocks.  The  harp,  and  doubtless  other  instruments,  gave  him  di- 
version, but  his  eyes  were  also  busied  with  the  works  of  nature.  A  lot 
of  history  was  written  upon  the  few  miles  of  his  country  which  came 
within  his  circuit.  He  knew  it  all.  Doubtless  he  knew  something  of 
other  countries  and  other  people  too,  for  there  was  a  busy  world  out- 
side, whose  gods  were  Light  and  Poesy  and  Song.  But  near  the  roll- 
ing hills  of  Bethlehem  there  was  no  Castalian  fountain  attended  upon 


142  /iV^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

by  the  Muses,  from  whose  airy  spray  arose  the  intoxicating-  vapor 
which  benumbed  the  senses  of  man  and  brought  him  into  communion 
with  the  Hellenic  deity.  There  was  no  Delphic  priestess  to  swoon  for 
David ;  no  wily  priests  to  turn  her  wild  ejaculations  into  oracles  for 
the  observant  shepherd-boy  of  Judah.  His  mind  was  wholly  fixed 
upon  Jehovah.  Imagination  he  had — a  most  vivid  one.  But  it  did 
not  decoy  him  into  that  Hellenic  snarl  which,  in  his  day  and  genera- 
tion, dragged  its  deluded  victims  into  looking  upon  everything  as 
deity.  Not  a  sight  nor  a  sound  of  nature  escaped  his  notice.  He  knew 
the  haunts  and  the  habits  of  the  wild  animals  all.  Every  bird-call  was 
familiar  to  him.  His  soul  appreciated  and  loved  all,  and  all  were 
woven  into  his  songs  of  praise  for  the  Almighty  Creator — all  were 
strimg  upon  his  line  of  metaphor.  The  Lord  was  his  shepherd;  he 
continually  drew  similes  between  his  care  for  his  father's  flocks  and 
the  care  of  his  heavenly  father  for  him ;  he  knew  that  the  serpent  was 
poisonous  and  that  the  adder  was  deaf;  that  the  hart  panteth  after 
the  water  brooks ;  he  could  understand  the  rejoicing  of  the  green  hills, 
and  knew  what  it  was  to  hear  the  valleys  shout  for  joy ;  he  was  familiar 
with  the  wild  roar  of  the  tempest,  and  he  could  compare  the  enemies 
of  righteousness  with  the  roar  of  the  lion,  for  he  himself  had  struggled 
with  one;  more  than  once  he  had  seen  the  water  rolling  in  cascades 
over  the  stony  inclines  about  him  when  the  floods  of  spring-time  lifted 
up  their  voice;  he  caught  music  from  the  hills  as  they  rejoiced  to- 
gether, and  the  tender  soliloquies  of  the  song-birds  meant  the  praise 
of  Jehovah  to  him.  All  things  were  exhorted  to  praise  Him  who  rode, 
not  in  an  iron  chariot,  but  "  upon  the  heavens  of  heavens."  Only  one 
grand  and  glorious  warrant  was  given  for  all  this.  It  was  the  vital 
artery  which  gave  life  to  his  every  song — "  For  he  is  our  God ;  and  we 
are  the  people  of  his  pasture,  and  the  sheep  of  his  hand."  He  was 
the  happy  lover  of  nature  and  of  nature's  God.  His  fame  spread  even 
to  the  king's  household,  and  ere  long  the  Lord's  anointed  twain  were 
found  living  together.  It  came  about  in  this  way:  "An  evil  spirit 
from  the  Lord  troubled  Saul."  Neither  money,  conquest,  nor  power 
could  purchase  freedom  from  such  a  visitation.  But  common-sense 
suggested  a  temporary  alleviation,  and  "a  cunning  player  on  the 
harp  "  was  sought.  David's  fame  as  a  musician  secured  him  the  place. 
His  deft  performances  not  only  won  him  promotion,  but  also  gained 
him  the  love  of  his  king.     More  than  this,  "  Saul  was  well,  and  re- 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  143 

freshed,  and  the  evil  spirit  departed  from  him."  This  happy  condition 
of  affairs  was  not  to  continue,  however.  The  Philistines  had  again 
gathered  together  their  armies  to  battle.  Saul  had  no  choice  but  to 
meet  them  in  the  field.  David  did  not  accompany  him,  but  returned 
to  guard  his  father's  sheep  at  Bethlehem.  It  seems  strange,  since 
David  had  become  Saul's  armor-bearer,  that  the  youth  was  not  per- 
mitted to  exercise  his  functions  now.  But  he  was  the  youngest  child 
of  his  parents,  and  they  already  had  three  sons  in  the  service  of  Saul. 
Undoubtedly  they  objected  to  making  any  further  sacrifice  in  behalf  of 
a  king  whom  they  knew  had  been  rejected  by  God.  There  are  other 
reasons  which  will  seem  plain  when  we  study  the  customs  of  war  which 
prevailed  at  that  time. 

The  modem  soldier  is  the  machine  of  his  commander.  The  Jewish 
warrior,  however  mean,  had  a  chance  to  distinguish  himself.  If  his 
parents  were  faithful  to  him  when  he  was  a  child,  they  explained  to 
him  how,  in  Joshua's  time,  the  whole  land  was  promised  to  his  ances- 
tors if  they  would  obey  God's  command  and  exterminate  the  Canaan- 
ites ;  moreover,  how  this  sacred  duty  had  only  been  in  part  performed ; 
that  the  blessing  yet  awaited  the  valorous,  and  that  fighting  at  all 
would  be  fighting  for  Jehovah  with  the  assurance  of  success.  Almost 
every  man,  then,  who  could  bear  arms  was  a  soldier.  Success  in  arms 
depended  upon  the  individual  qualities  then,  as  now.  Bodily  strength 
was  of  great  advantage,  for  hand-to-hand  combat  was  the  rule.  Com- 
plete presence  of  mind  was  a  priceless  quality.  Swiftness  of  foot,  so 
as  to  be  able  to  chase  the  enemy,  or,  perhaps,  sometimes  flee  from 
him,  was  acquired  early  in  youth.  An  animated,  unfaltering  eye,  with 
an  expressive  countenance  under  complete  control,  would  often  make 
an  enemy  quail  when  bodily  strength  even  was  of  no  avail.  The  voice 
must  express  a  variety  of  cadence  so  as  to  "  lay  on "  with  a  power 
which  the  sword  could  not  always  control.  An  appearance  of  athletic 
force  was  always  cultivated.  The  education  of  the  Hebrew  youth  sup- 
plied opportunities  for  culture  in  all  these,  and  the  almost  constant 
fighting  which  went  on  gave  him  a  chance  to  become  familiar  with  the 
art  of  war.  When  they  went  to  field,  each  soldier  carried  his  own  pro- 
visions so  as  not  to  be  a  burden  to  the  state,  or  else  he  was  kept  pro- 
vided by  the  homestead  when  the  field  of  action  was  near  enough. 
(The  vale  of  Elah  was  only  a  short  distance — a  few  miles — from  Beth- 
lehem, and  so  Jesse  replenished  the  haversacks  of  his  sons  by  sending 


144  I^''  8CRIPTUBE  LANDS. 

David  to  them  with  supplies — parched  corn  and  bread — with  a  present 
of  cheeses  to  the  captains  of  their  regiment — a  healthy  diet  for  war- 
riors.) Foraging  was  resorted  to  sometimes.  When  the  scene  of 
battle  was  far  away  from  their  homes,  one-half  of  the  soldiers  looked 
after  the  commissary  department  while  the  others  fought.  As  a  rule, 
the  invader  appeared,  and  the  fighting  went  on,  in  the  spring.  A  rest 
was  always  taken  on  Sunday.  A  completely  armed  warrior  had  a 
helmet  of  brass,  a  habergeon,  a  cuirass  or  breast-plate  of  brass,  a  de- 
fence for  the  back,  a  girdle  for  the  loins,  and  greaves  of  brass  for  the 
legs  and  feet.  A  sword  was  provided  for  his  right  hand,  and  a  shield 
or  buckler  for  the  left.  The  greater  number,  however,  had  to  combat 
in  ordinary  clothing,  and  not  all  were  armed  alike.  They  were  there- 
fore formed  into  detachments  according  to  their  armor.  Thus,  one  di- 
vision had  swords  and  bucklers,  a  second  carried  spears  and  javelins, 
a  third  bore  battle-axes,  while  others  carried  slings.  Some  fought 
with  bows  of  steel  nearly  as  long  as  their  bodies  and  used  poisoned 
arrows.  Some  of  David's  men  could  use  both  the  right  hand  and  the 
left  in  hurling  stones  and  shooting  arrows  out  of  a  bow.  Some  of 
them  could  handle  shield  and  buckler.  Their  faces  were  like  the  faces 
of  lions,  and  they  were  as  swift  as  the  roes  upon  the  mountains.  One 
great  giant  had  six  fingers  on  each  hand  and  six  toes  on  each  foot. 
The  cavalrymen  rode  without  stirrups  or  saddle,  using  but  a  simple 
bridle  to  guide  their  unshod  chargers.  Two  men  rode  in  every  chariot 
— one  to  drive,  while  the  second  fought  with  bow  and  spear.  The 
chariots  were  of  iron.  When  accoutred  for  the  field,  it  was  the  duty 
of  the  warrior  to  present  himself  to  the  priest,  by  whom  he  was 
charged  to  be  courageous,  brave,  and  trustful.  When  the  war-proclam- 
ation came,  the  man  who  had  built  a  new  house  and  had  not  dedicated 
it,  he  who  had  planted  a  vineyard  and  had  not  eaten  of  it,  the  be- 
trothed who  had  not  yet  married  his  wife,  and  all  who  were  afraid  or 
faint-hearted  could  be  exempted  if  they  so  desired. 

All  sorts  of  ruses  were  practised  in  warfare.  Fires  were  sometimes 
lighted  to  cover  a  retreat ;  Gideon  and  his  band  concealed  their  trum- 
pets, lamps,  and  pitchers  upon  their  persons  until  they  were  in  the 
very  midst  of  the  enemy.  The  Philistines  gained  time  for  reinforce- 
ments by  sending  Goliath  out  into  the  valley  to  banter  the  Israelites 
and  frighten  them  by  his  bulk— a  ruse  which  might  have  resulted  dif- 
ferently but  for  the  prowess  of  David.     No  cruelty  seemed  too  great  to 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  145 

practise  upon  prisoners  of  war — no  indignity  too  horrible  to  lay  upon 
the  killed.  Head,  noses,  ears,  hands,  and  feet  were  cut  off;  the  bodies 
were  mutilated  under  the  threshing-drag  and  under  the  harrow;  the 
women  were  maltreated,  and  the  sons  of  royalty  were  treated  to  a  spec- 
ial horror.  Woe  bef  el  the  people  upon  whose  territory  the  battle  took 
place  if  success  attended  the  invaders,  for  the  springs  were  filled  in, 
the  crops  were  destroyed  and  the  fields  were  covered  with  stones 
thrown  down  from  the  hillsides.  The  armor  was  burned  whenever  it 
could  be  seized,  and  the  farming  implements  were  destroyed. 

"When  the  battle  was  ended,  and  the  home-coming  occurred,  the  sol- 
diers were  met  by  the  females  playing  upon  musical  instruments  and 
dancing  as  the  daughter  of  Jephtha  met  him — as  the  women  came  out 
of  all  the  cities  through  which  David  passed  when  he  returned  from  his 
combat  with  Goliath.  In  time  of  peace  the  implements  of  war  were 
hung  up  and  the  combatants  returned  to  the  plough.  Some  of  these  cus- 
toms are  still  practised  among  the  Bedouins.  They  are  compelled,  very 
often,  to  depend  more  upon  their  cunning  than  upon  their  arms,  for  not 
infrequently  the  entire  arsenal  of  a  tribe  presents  but  a  most  pathetic 
sight.  "When  I  came  up  from  the  desert  I  fell  in  with  the  remnant  of  a 
tribe  of  Azazemahs  who  had  just  returned  from  "  war."  They  were  in 
pitiable  shape.  Their  sheikh  had  been  killed  and  his  body  carried 
away ;  their  camels  had  all  been  run  off ;  their  flocks  had  been  stolen, 
and  they  had  nothing  left  to  defend  themselves  with.  And  yet  they 
opposed  our  progress  as  pluckily  as  a  centipede  that  turns  to  bite  you 
after  the  bulk  of  his  innumerable  pedals  have  been  torn  from  his  body. 

On  a  certain  occasion  two  armies,  accoutred  somewhat  after  the 
fashion  described  above,  were  encamped  "  in  array  "  on  the  sides  of  one 
of  the  beautiful  valleys  a  few  miles  southwest  of  Jerusalem.  Those  on 
the  western  incline  had  come  over  the  hills  from  the  direction  of  the 
Mediterranean,  and  were  Philistines.  Saul  and  his  army,  fresh  from 
the  rich  country  north  and  east,  occupied  the  eastern  side  of  the  valley 
of  Elah.  "  Army  against  army  "  had  been  there  for  about  six  weeks 
without  making  much  progress.  They  had  clashed  before,  and  knew 
each  other  well  enough  to  guard  their  manoeuvres  with  some  little  con- 
sideration. The  question  as  to  which  was  the  stronger  was  a  debatable 
one.  Saul  and  his  army,  like  the  wise  soldier  who  never  allows  him- 
self to  underrate  an  enemy,  "  were  dismayed  and  greatly  afraid." 

The  Philistines  had  invaded  the  territory  of  his  people,  but  he 
10 


146  Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

seemed  unwilling-  to  make  the  attempt  to  drive  them  off.  The  Philis- 
tines knew  that  there  was  a  great  deal  larger  country  back  of  Saul  to 
draw  reinforcements  from  than  there  was  at  their  rear,  and  they  were, 
therefore,  cautious  about  advancing  below  their  stronghold.  There 
was  among  them,  however,  a  champion  from  Gath,  the  giant  Goliath. 
This  freak  of  nature,  protected  by  his  magnificent  armor,  exhibited  him- 
self daily  down  in  the  valley  and  defied  the  army  of  Israel  to  send  him 
a  man  to  fight  with  him.  He  offered  to  let  the  result  decide  also  the 
impending  battle.  For  forty  days  he  was  allowed  to  do  this  without 
anyone  of  Saul's  command  daring  to  accept  the  pagan's  challenge. 
The  rest  of  the  story  is  told  us  by  one  who  has  written  it  with  the 
dramatic  clearness  of  an  eye-witness.  The  young  shepherd-boy  of 
Bethlehem,  the  anointed  king,  came  from  his  home  only  a  few  miles 
away,  to  bring  supplies  to  his  three  older  brethren  who  were  with 
Saul's  army.  He  volunteered  to  go  down  and  meet  the  boastful  Philis- 
tine, but  was  snubbed  by  his  own  brother  for  his  presumption.  His 
king,  however,  upon  being  reassured,  allowed  David  to  accept  the  chal- 
lenge and  meet  the  foe.  When  the  ruddy  shepherd-boy,  whose  only 
weapon  was  his  sling,  came  back  to  the  headquarters  of  Saul,  he  bore 
the  sword  of  the  boaster  in  one  hand  and  the  giant's  head  in  the  other. 
Saul  did  not  say  to  him,  who  art  thou  %  but  "  whose  son  art  thou  ?  " 
This  was  a  cool  reception,  yet  at  the  same  time  the  son  of  King  Saul, 
Jonathan,  who  stood  by,  "  loved  him  as  his  own  soul."  He  acknowl- 
edged the  courage  of  the  young  victor,  clothed  him  with  his  own  royal 
robes,  and  gave  him  his  armor.  Saul  gave  David  command  of  his  men 
of  war  after  he  realized  what  a  service  had  been  done,  and  David  was 
honored  by  all  the  people.  Even  the  women  came  out  from  all  the 
cities  through  which  he  passed  on  his  return  from  Elah.  They  sang  to 
his  praise  as  they  played,  and  ascribed  to  him  greater  conquests  than 
they  did  to  King  Saul.  Alas !  for  David.  His  ascending  star  was 
checked  on  its  rapid  course  as  suddenly  as  the  planets  were  when 
Joshua  said,  "  Sun,  stand  thou  still  upon  Gibeon ;  and  thou,  moon,  in 
the  valley  of  Ajalon."  For  Saul  was  angry  and  "  eyed  David  from  that 
day  and  forward."  Then  followed  a  chain  of  romantic  incidents  which 
supplies  us  with  the  most  adventurous  history  in  all  the  Old  Testa- 
ment. David's  life  was  attempted  by  his  royal  master  while  he  played 
before  the  king ;  Michal,  Saul's  daughter,  fell  in  love  with  David,  "  and 
the  thing  pleased  Saul " — pleased  him,  not  because  he  approved  of 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  147 

their  union,  but  because  he  saw  a  probable  way  of  causing  the  death  of 
the  bridegroom.  The  conditions  of  the  dowry  were  so  made  by  Saul 
that  David  was  sent  to  battle  with  the  Philistines  again,  with  the  hope 
of  his  being  killed.  He  returned  with  a  double  dowry,  however ;  yet 
"  Saul  became  David's  enemy  continually."  A  further  conquest  over 
the  Philistines  gave  David  no  favor  with  his  king,  for  when  he  returned 
and  again  exchanged  his  armor  for  his  harp,  and  was  trying  to  divert 
his  demented,  would-be  assassin,  Saul  again  sought  to  murder  him  with 
his  javelin.  Then  the  young  man,  aided  by  his  wife,  escaped  and  went 
out  from  his  royal  home  to  consult  with  Samuel.  His  interview  with 
the  prophet  and  his  affectionate  parting  with  Jonathan  were  not  con- 
cluded ere  Saul  and  his  attendants  began  to  hunt  him  down,  and  David 
became  an  outlaw.  He  fled  to  the  wilderness  for  safety.  His  first  halt 
was  at  Nob.  The  ark  was  resting  there  at  the  time,  and  he  caused 
Ahimelech,  the  priest,  to  give  him  of  the  hallowed  bread  to  eat.  There 
he  fairly  jumped  into  the  arms  of  one  of  Saul's  servants,  but  he  put  on 
a  bold  front,  armed  himself  with  the  sword  of  Goliath,  and  went  down 
to  Gath,  the  former  home  of  the  boasting  monster  whom  he  had  killed. 
There  he  was  recognized  by  Achish,  the  king,  and  feigned  madness  in 
order  to  escape  being  questioned.*  His  next  place  of  refuge  was  the 
cave  of  AduUam.  He  did  not  deem  it  necessary  to  travel  a  great  dis- 
tance in  order  to  evade  Saul.  At  no  time  during  all  his  escapades, 
which  occurred  from  the  time  he  and  Jonathan  parted  until  he  was 
recognized  as  king,  at  Hebron,  was  he  more  than  thirty  miles  from  the 
home  of  Saul — such  a  matter,  say,  as  the  distance  from  Boston  to 
Worcester,  from  New  York  to  New  Brunswick,  or  from  Trenton  to 
Philadelphia.  But  the  country  was  well  known  to  David.  He  was 
never  much  more  than  twenty  miles  away  from  his  home  in  Bethlehem. 
It  is  a  peculiar  country,  inasmuch  as  it  is  full  of  caverns,  caves,  glens, 
deep  ravines,  and  sometimes  thickets.  Doubtless  David  had  tramped 
the  whole  district  involved  in  the  portion  of  his  history  we  are  study- 
ing, more  than  once,  while  searching  for  his  father's  live-stock.  Its 
white  marl  ridges,  its  steep  slopes,  its  barren  and  rugged  wadies,  its 
ravines,  whence  came  up  the  cries  of  the  wild  beast  and  the  murmur- 
ings  of  the  water  brooks  in  strange  dissonance,  its  every  grove  and 

*  Such  "  tricks  "  as  this  are  yet  in  common  practice  among  the  Bedouins.  I  have  known  our 
cook  to  "make  himself  dumb"  more  than  once  so  he  need  not  give  attention  to  the  begging  of 
our  stores  by  the  Bedouins  through  whose  country  we  were  passing. 


148  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

thicket,  were  all  familiar  to  him.  He  knew  also  to  what  heights  to 
climb  when  his  poetical  fancy  led  him,  to  see  where  the  gleaming- 
thread  of  the  sea  lay  in  its  rock -bound  chasm — where  the  long  ranges 
of  Moab  were  disclosed,  with  the  impregnable  inclines  down  which  a 
thousand  water-courses  ran  to  the  broad  plateau  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Jordan,  close  to  where  his  ancestry  dwelt.  All  these  wild  and 
striking  prospects  David  seemed  to  be  much  better  acquainted  with 
than  Saul  was,  and  so  he  was  able  to  carry  on  the  wild,  Modoc  warfare, 
which  followed  between  them,  with  the  greater  skill. 

Anyone  who  has  footed  it  from  Bethlehem  to  the  convent  of  Mar 
Saba,  or  even  farther  toward  the  Jordan  or  the  Dead  Sea,  will  well 
understand  the  nature  of  the  country.  It  is  the  same  all  over  that 
section  (or  under  it)  which  lies  west  and  south  of  Jerusalem,  as  far  as 
Hebron  and  Gaza.  Some  very  strange  excavations  are  there,  the  pur- 
pose of  which  can  hardly  be  made  out.  Their  interior  chambers  re- 
mind you  of  the  interiors  of  the  dark,  rock-cut  structures  at  Petra, 
only  they  are  underground.  They  have  the  same  appearance  of 
dwellings,  and  yet  their  sides  are  lined  with  receptacles  for  the  dead. 
Besides  these,  the  natural  caves  are  without  number.  Sometimes  the 
sides  of  a  glen  of  fearful  depth  are  lined  with  caves,  wherein  a  direct 
ray  of  sunlight  never  enters.  Frequently  a  tiny  stream  goes  singing 
along  at  the  bottom  of  such  a  deep  cut  which,  with  a  sturdy  aloes  plant 
battling  for  life  here  and  there,  gives  the  only  relief  there  is  to  the 
horrid  desolation  of  the  scene.  You  could  find  a  dozen  such  places 
within  a  few  hours'  ride  from  Jerusalem,  where  Nature  does  not  seem 
to  have  left  a  single  attractive  feature,  aside  from  the  always  attractive 
and  strange  geological  structures  which  are  piled  up  on  every  side. 
To  such  cheerless  places  the  Lord's  anointed  resorted  during  his  season 
of  testing  and  of  trial.  For  a  time  Saul  could  not  get  any  clue  to  the 
whereabouts  of  the  fugitive.  At  last  his  servant  Doeg  told  him  how 
he  had  seen  David  at  Nob,  and  how  Ahimelech  had  given  him  food  and 
the  sword  of  Goliath.  This  bit  of  gossip  caused  the  massacre  of 
Ahimelech  and  eighty -five  of  his  assistant  priests,  by  order  of  Saul. 
The  news  was  carried  to  David  by  Abiathar,  one  of  the  sons  of  Ahime- 
lech, and  the  young  priest  remained  with  David.  We  next  find  our 
hero  defending  the  people  of  Keilah  against  an  invasion  of  the  Philis- 
tines. His  good  services  were  requited  by  the  treachery  of  the  men  of 
Keilah,  who  sent  word  t9  Saul  of  David's  whereabouts.     He  had  gath- 


THREE  JEWISH  KINOS. 


149 


ered  quite  a  following"  by  this  time,  and  led  his  ill-fed  adherents  once 
more  into  the  wilderness,  and  made  a  great  cavern  their  rendezvous. 
Saul  followed  hot  after  him,  but  was  interrupted  and  forced  to  return 
to  Gibeah  by  another  invasion  of  his  old  enemy,  the  Philistines,  who, 
hearing  of  his  absence  from 
home,  thought  to  make  an 
easy  conquest.  When  Saul 
took  up  the  hunt  again  David 
had  changed  his  base  to  the 
wilderness  of  En-gedi,  a  few 
miles  eastward  toward  the 
Dead  Sea.  Saul  sought  him, 
and  wearied  by  the  march, 
entered  the  very  cave  where 
David  and  his  men  were,  and 
lay  down  to  rest.  Now  was 
David's  time  to  rid  him  of  his 
dreaded  tormentor.  Did  he  % 
No!  No  sprig  of  modern 
monarchy  ever  held  a  more 
fixed  faith  in  "  the  divine  ap- 
pointment of  kings"  than 
David's  in  the  sanctity  of 
"  the  Lord's  anointed."  When 
counselled  by  his  attendants 

to  make  short  work  of  his  enemy,  he  merely  cut  off  the  skirt  of  Saul's 
robe  while  he  slept.  The  temptation  to  go  further  was  a  terrible  one. 
His  heart  smote  him,  however,  for  what  he  had  already  done,  and  when 
his  spirit  prompted  him  to  kill  his  sleeping  enemy,  and  with  one  stroke 
of  the  sword  of  Goliath  clear  the  way  to  the  throne,  he  cried  out  in 
agony  :  "  The  Lord  forbid  that  I  should  do  this  thing  to  my  master,  the 
Lord's  anointed."  The  weighty  sword  was  sheathed,  and  the  great  man, 
panic-stricken,  crept  back  into  the  darkness,  that  his  tired,  ill-advised, 
and  demented  king  might  finish  his  rest. 

"What  a  dramatic  scene  followed  when  the  recuperated  Saul  awoke 
and  started  again  in  pursuit  of  the  man  he  hated !  And  what  a  strange 
setting  for  the  scene  !  When  the  curtain  of  night  lifted  and  the  light 
of  morning  fell  athwart  the  stage,  the  king  went  stalking  down  the 


The  Cave  of  Adullam. 


150      .  7iV  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

side  of  the  glen ;  the  clashing-  of  his  armor  awakened  the  echoes  as, 
followed  by  his  army,  he  sought  the  little  stream  at  the  bottom,  that 
all  might  be  refreshed  by  the  cool  water  before  going  on  with  the 
search.  Now  another  character  appeared,  at  the  mouth  of  the  cave, 
backed  by  a  band  of  ragged  banditti.  He  hesitated  a  moment,  trem- 
bling at  the  sight  of  the  armed  host  he  saw  tramping  down  the  valley. 
He  well  knew  what  their  errand  was.  The  next  moment  the  rocks 
rang  with  the  cry :  "  My  lord,  the  king  !  "  Saul  turned  and  saw  the 
man  whom  he  supposed  would  murder  him,  had  he  the  chance,  holding 
the  skirt  of  his  garment  up  to  view,  and  caught  the  protestations  of 
innocence  as  the  words  came  rolling  down  to  him  from  the  cave.  This 
story  would  seem  very  real  to  you  if  you  could  visit  any  one  of  the 
dozen  rocky  amphitheatres  within  ten  miles  of  where  AduUam  is  sup- 
posed to  be.  No  wonder  "  Saul  lifted  up  his  voice  and  wept,"  when 
David  finished  his  earnest  declamation.  "  Saul  went  home  "  then,  but 
David  did  not  accompany  him.  He  had  already  seen,  too  often,  how  un- 
reliable and  treacherous  Saul  could  be,  and  trusted  him  not.  So  he 
and  his  men  "  got  them  up  into  the  hold."  They  were  still  outlaws, 
and  were  compelled  to  gain  a  livelihood  by  their  prowess  and  their 
wits.  No  conscientious  scruples  were  indulged  in  when  they  came 
upon  the  Canaanites.  Their  Bedouin  blood  boiled  then,  and  they 
raided  for  all  they  could  get.  Sometimes  they  occupied  themselves  by 
voluntarily  guarding  the  flocks  which  had  been  sent  where  water  and 
pasture  were  plentier  than  around  the  homes  of  their  owners,  and  de- 
fended the  shepherds  from  the  attacks  of  invading  tribes.  Then,  at  the 
end  of  the  season,  when  the  time  for  shearing  came,  David  would  send 
a  delegation  of  his  men  to  the  owner  of  the  guarded  flocks,  with  a  state- 
ment of  the  service  done,  and  ask  for  a  fair  return.  As  a  rule,  such 
claims  were  settled  without  much  dispute.  The  husbandmen  well 
knew  the  value  of  the  protection  thus  given  them,  and  requited  it  ac- 
cordingly. Nabal  was  an  exception,  however.  He  was  one  of  the 
wealthy  herdsmen  of  Carmel,  a  few  miles  from  Hebron,  and,  as  was  his 
annual  habit,  sent  his  large  flocks  into  the  wilderness  to  graze  until 
shearing  time.  In  the  language  of  the  attending  shepherds,  David  and 
his  men  "  were  a  wall  "  unto  them  all  the  time  they  were  in  the  fields, 
"both  by  night  and  by  day."  But  when  David  sent  his  servants  to 
Nabal  to  have  his  goodly  services  remembered,  Nabal  answered  them  : 
"  Who  is  David  ?  and  who  is  the  son  of  Jesse  ?  there  be  many  servants 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS. 


151 


nowadays  that  break  away  every  man  from  his  master.  Shall  I  then 
take  my  bread,  and  my  water,  and  my  flesh  that  I  have  killed  for  my 
shearers,  and  give  it  unto  men,  whom  I  know  not  whence  they  be  ?  " 
This  answer  was  taken  to  David.  Such  injustice  must  be  resented,  and 
at  once  he  and  four  hundred  picked  men  girded  on  their  swords  and 
started  for  the  rich  man's  house  at  Carmel,  to  take  what  they  believed 
was  their  share.     But  for  Abigail,  Nabal's  wife,  a  raid  would  have  been 


In  the  Wilderness  of  En-gedi. 


made ;  and  no  wonder,  for  David  was  only  following  the  Bedouins'  idea 
of  justice. 

The  entire  history  of  this  transaction  affords  an  insight  into  some 
of  the  characteristics  of  the  nomads,  which  to  this  day  are  unchanged. 
They  are  not  an  ungenerous  people  if  you  strike  them  understand- 
ingly.  The  comfort  which  a  Frenchman  derives  from  being  "  polite," 
the  Arab  gets  from  being  "hospitable."  Both  may  feel  and  look  as 
though  they  would  like  to  rob  or  kill  j^ou  after  they  had  sleeked  you 
over  with  their  one  and  very  peculiar  and  national  trait,  and  the  Arab 
will,  if  opportunity  comes  along.  The  humblest  Bedouin  does  his  best 
to  reserve  what  he  dubs  his  "  hospitality  tent,"  and  is  always  willing 


152  US'  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

to  entertain  strangers,  be  they  "  angels  unawares,"  or  probable  subjects 
for  brigandage  after  they  are  a  half -day's  journey  from  his  quarters.  I 
have  good  cause  to  remember  always  the  "hospitality"  I  accepted 
from  a  murderous  tribe  of  Azazemehs,  not  more  than  a  dozen  miles 
away  from  where  David  guarded  Nabal's  flocks.  A  "  feast "  was  part 
of  the  programme.  The  menu  was  not  as  puzzling  as  a  Parisian  one, 
but  it  was  as  full  and  as  good  as  the  one  which  David  gave — "  a  loaf 
of  bread,  and  a  good  piece  of  flesh,  and  a  flagon  of  wine  " — when  the 
ark  was  brought  into  Jerusalem,  and  it  was  served  with  much  cere- 
mony. In  an  Arab  village  the  tents  are  arranged  on  three  sides  of 
a  plat  of  ground,  with  the  fourth  side  open.  The  "  hospitality  tent  " 
is  usually  at  one  end,  near  the  open.  The  female  quarters  are  next, 
separated  by  a  tent-cloth  or  rugs.  An  improvised  divan  of  the  same 
material  is  the  only  piece  of  furniture  in  the  "  hospitality  tent."  On 
such  a  sumptuous  article  of  antique  furniture  my  companions  and  I 
sat  and  suffered  "  hospitality  "  for  nearly  four  hours,  only  a  few  miles 
from  David's  ancient  hiding-places.  A  fire  of  twigs  was  first  built. 
That  was  very  welcome,  for  the  night  was  chilly.  The  twenty-five 
savages  who,  attended  by  one  of  the  veiled  women,  came  to  share 
the  fire  and  the  feast,  were  not  so  agreeable.  Each  one  brought  a 
"  contribution,"  usually  some  twigs  for  fuel.  Coffee  was  made  with 
great  ceremony.  Several  of  the  men  took  part  in  bruising  the  blessed 
bean  in  a  wooden  mortar,  with  a  pestle  almost  as  long  as  the  arm. 
Tune  or  time  was  kept  with  the  rude  instruments.  If  a  younger  per- 
son than  the  one  officiating  at  the  pestle  entered  the  tent,  he  po- 
litely assumed  the  labor  and  caught  up  the  tune.  The  coffee  was 
boiled  in  a  ladle,  and  the  water  was  cleared  in  the  same  utensil.  Often- 
times water  is  as  scarce  as  coffee — always  less  plenty  than  milk.  Three 
times  the  mocha  was  served  in  tiny  china  cups,  one  of  which  had  been 
broken,  and  was  mended  with  copper  bands  and  wire.  Next  a  sheikh 
was  sent  out  with  a  sword  in  hand  to  slaughter  a  sheep  for  the  feast. 
While  he  was  gone  a  two-gallon  bowl  of  leben,  or  sour  goat's-milk,  was 
kept  in  circulation,  all  drinking  from  it.  The  plenteous  American 
moustache  came  in  protectingly  useful  then.  If  it  was  smeared  with 
the  dainty  lactate,  the  "  hospitality  "  giver  was  content.  How  long 
this  ceremony  would  have  continued  no  one  could  have  conjectured, 
had  not  a  cross-eyed  Azazemeh,  a  nephew  of  the  sheikh,  come  in  late 
and  hungry  from  some  marauding  jaunt  and  emptied  the  bowl.    It  was 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  153 

the  only  cause  for  gratitude  we  had  during  the  entire  feast.  In  about 
three  hours  a  great  wooden  bowl  was  brought  in,  filled  with  stewed 
meat  and  barley  pan-cakes — by  no  means  a  distasteful  combination. 
With  fingers,  all  helped  themselves  from  the  bowl  until  satisfied,  and 
then  the  feast  ended.  For  this  accommodation  on  our  part  we  were 
treated  the  next  day  very  much  as  David  was  by  the  children  of  Keilah, 
for  we  were  not  allowed  to  depart  until  we  had  fully  paid  for  the  "  hos- 
pitality," with  usury  added. 

Parting  there  with  the  wretches,  in  whose  hands  we  had  been  since 
we  left  Akabah,  compromising  with  those  whose  guests  we  had  been, 
and  arranging  with  still  a  third  tribe  to  conduct  us  to  Hebron,  resulted 
in  an  intolerable  amount  of  yelling  and  bluster,  which  was  all  shocking 
to  the  nerves.  Swords,  pistols,  clubs,  spears,  fists,  and  guns  were  used, 
but  no  one  was  hurt.  I  do  not  wonder  that  David  wanted  to  annihilate 
the  churlish  Nabal  when  he  was  denied  what  an  ordinarily  generous 
Bedouin  would  willingly  give  to  a  stranger  without  any  previous  ser- 
vice. In  accordance  with  the  law  of  the  tribes,  which  still  holds  good 
— although  it  may  be  a  bad  law — he  was  justified  in  making  a  raid  and 
in  taking  whatever  property  Allah  put  in  his  way. 

Not  long  after  the  transaction  with  Nabal,  David  fully  realized  that 
his  conjecture  as  to  Saul's  untrustworthiness  was  well  founded.  He 
had  settled  down  at  Hachilah,  with  the  intention  of  remaining  in  that 
wilderness  for  a  time,  when  the  Ziphites  discovered  him,  and  reported 
his  whereabouts  to  Saul.  The  spiteful  envy  of  the  king,  like  a  cancer, 
crazed  him  again.  With  three  thousand  chosen  men  he  started  in 
search  of  his  enemy.  It  was  not  a  very  long  march  from  Gibeah,  Saul's 
home.  It  was  only  about  twenty  miles  away,  but  there  was  no  night 
marching.  When  the  red  sun  sank  into  the  desert,  and  the  shades  of 
evening  came,  and  the  after-glow  was  over,  the  great  king  stuck  his 
spear  into  the  gravelly  bottom,  threw  down  his  bolster  against  it,  and 
soon  fell  asleep  with  his  bad  counsellor  Abner  and  his  people  lying 
around  him.  Once  more  David  had  Saul  in  his  power.  He  visited  the 
king's  camj)  at  night.  By  his  size  and  armor  he  soon  discovered  Saul's 
whereabouts.  Abishai,  David's  attendant,  volunteered  with  but  a  sin- 
gle blow  of  the  spear  to  finish  Saul.  It  was  a  sore  temptation  to  David, 
for  he  was  now  harassed  almost  beyond  endurance.  But  his  answer 
was,  "  Wlio  can  stretch  forth  his  hand  against  the  Lord's  anointed  and 
be  guiltless?"     Again   Saul  was  spared  and  David  departed,  taking 


154  IN  8CBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

only  the  kingly  spear  and  a  cruise  of  water  from  Saul's  bolster.  The 
next  day  a  scene  similar  to  the  one  at  the  cave  of  Adullam  took  place. 
There  was  no  altercation.  "  David  went  on  his  way  and  Saul  returned 
to  his  place." 

It  was  the  last  time  the  doomed  king  "  played  the  fool,"  as  he  him- 
self termed  it.  David  continued  distrustful,  however,  and  to  make 
himself  more  secure,  again  went  over  to  Gath,  in  the  land  of  the  Philis- 
tines. Bather  than  excite  his  ill-will,  Prince  Achish,  son  of  Maoch, 
king  of  Gath,  allowed  David  to  settle  in  his  territory,  in  the  secluded 
district  of  Ziklag.  By  an  occasional  brush  with  some  of  the  oldest  in- 
habitants down  near  the  Egyptian  border,  David  sustained  himself  and 
his  people.  He  was  placed  in  a  rather  awkward  position  once,  for 
Achish  invited  him  to  join  in  an  exjiedition  against  Saul.  He  started 
out  with  the  Philistines,  but  a  way  was  opened  for  his  release.  The 
Philistine  princes  objected  to  the  co-operation  of  Hebrews  in  their 
enterprise.  Achish  made  a  frank  statement  to  David  of  the  way  mat- 
ters stood,  attesting  his  confidence  in  his  ally,  but  the  slayer  of  Goliath 
marched  his  brave  band  back  to  Ziklag.  In  their  absence  the  Amale- 
kites  had  visited  Ziklag  and  burned  it.  They  slew  no  one,  however, 
but  took  all  away,  including  the  wives  and  children  of  David  and  his 
men.  Now  another  bright  bit  of  Bedouin  history  followed,  such  as 
you  may  see  enacted  almost  any  year  if  you  journey  between  Petra  and 
Kadesh-Bamea.  A  spirited  report  of  the  affair  alluded  to  is  given  in 
1  Samuel,  xxx.  David  and  his  six  hundred  started  at  once  in  pur- 
suit of  the  Amalekites.  So  fast  did  they  go  that,  at  the  brook  Besor, 
two  hundred  of  the  eager  band  fainted  and  were  left  behind.  After  the 
brook  had  been  forded,  they  found  an  Egyptian  lying  in  the  field, 
nearly  dead.  Like  good  Samaritans  they  resuscitated  him,  and  to 
their  surprise  found  that  he  was  present  at  the  burning  of  Ziklag,  for 
he  was  the  servant  of  an  Amalekite.  On  the  promise  of  protection  he 
became  guide  to  David,  and  led  him  down  to  the  camp  of  the  Amale- 
kites. Long  before  it  was  reached,  from  a  neighboring  hill-top,  the 
marauders  were  seen  "spread  abroad  upon  all  the  earth,  eating  and 
drinking,  and  dancing,  because  of  all  the  great  spoil  that  they  had 
taken  out  of  the  land  of  the  Philistines,  and  out  of  the  land  of  Judah." 
An  all-day  battle  followed,  which  resulted  in  the  destruction  of  the  en- 
tire Amalekite  band,  except  four  hundred  young  men  who  rode  upon 
camels  and  fled.    All  the  women  and  children  of  David  and  his  men 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  155 

were  recovered,  with  the  spoils  which  had  been  taken  at  various  places 
during"  a  long"  season  of  raiding  and  robbery.  It  must  have  been  a 
picturesque  scene. 

An  equally  attractive  and  characteristic  one  took  place  when  the 
brook  Besor  was  reached.  It  was  the  fight  over  the  spoils.  I  have 
seen  such  many  a  time  on  a  small  scale,  over  the  "  blackmail  "  which  I 
had  paid  for  passing  through  some  teiTitory,  or  for  the  privilege  of 
filling  my  water-skins  at  the  tribal  well.  One's  head  is  lost  over  the 
bluster  and  disputes  started  on  such  occasions,  by  men  who  claim  a 
larger  share  of  the  service  than  another  because,  perhaps,  they  had 
lifted  a  jar  of  water  from  the  well-curb,  when  the  other  had  done 
nothing  but  lift  the  jar  down  from  the  hands  of  a  camel -man.  Sim- 
ilar selfishness  and  greediness  caused  the  rupture  in  David's  camp 
now.  Some  of  those  who  went  with  him  to  the  Amalekite  camp 
thought  it  unfair  that  those  who  fainted  at  the  brook  Besor  should 
receive  more  than  the  return  of  their  wives  and  children.  David  was 
the  sheikh,  and  he  decided  that  the  shares  should  be  equal,  or  "  part 
alike."  The  Bible  historian  says,  "  and  it  was  so  from  that  day  forward, 
that  he  made  it  a  statute  and  an  ordinance  for  Israel  unto  this  day." 
This  law  is  broken  by  the  modem  Bedouin,  however,  for  I  have  more 
than  once  seen  a  wily  sheikh  hide  a  portion  in  his  garments  before  the 
division  was  made. 

Our  history  now  brings  us  back  to  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  the  great 
battle-field  of  Palestine.  The  disconsolate  David,  knowing  that  Saul 
always  refrained  from  entering  the  country  of  the  Philistines,  con- 
cluded that  he  would  have  more  peace  among  them  than  when  hiding 
about  among  the  caves  near  to  his  own  home,  formed  an  alliance  with 
Achish,  the  son  of  Maoch,  the  king  of  Gath,  and  moved  his  headquar- 
ters down  to  Ziklag.  Samuel  was  dead.  Saul  had  concluded  to  give 
up  the  chase  after  David,  for  so  long  as  the  Philistines  harbored  the 
fugitive,  he  could  hardly  do  any  damage  to  the  king.  But  Saul's 
country  divided  the  two  strongholds  of  the  Philistines,  and  they  made 
one  more  effort  to  wrench  his  territory  from  him.  If  they  succeeded 
they  could  control  nearly  all  the  low  lands  in  Palestine,  from  near  the 
borders  of  Egypt  on  the  south,  along  the  Mediterranean  to  Mount 
Carmel,  then  around  its  base  to  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  and  thence 
across  it  to  the  Jordan.  It  was  a  prize  well  worth  wrestling  for. 
Once  more,  then,  they  united  their  forces  and  pitched  in  Shunem. 


156  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

Their  position  was  admirably  chosen.  Only  a  gentle  slope  closed  their 
rear.  In  front  a  level  plain,  two  or  three  miles  broad,  was  just  the 
place  for  the  free  manoeuvring"  of  their  chariots.  It  was  not  long  be- 
fore Saul  discovered  their  presence  and  gathered  his  forces  on  Mount 
Gilboa.  It  was  part  of  his  usual  tactics  to  choose  a  height  for  his 
headquarters,  rather  than  the  low  land.  From  his  encampment  on 
Gilboa  he  could  witness  the  marshalling  of  the  Philistines  across  the 
valley.  His  spies  could  creep  about  among  the  thickets  and  watch  the 
enemy's  every  movement.  But  their  reports  filled  him  with  trembling 
and  fear.  He  sought  for  Divine  direction  in  the  matter,  but  it  was  not 
given  him.  He  was  forsaken  of  God  and  cast  down  in  spirit.  In  his 
tribulation,  at  nightfall,  he  left  his  quarters,  disguised,  and  went  around 
to  Endor  to  consult  a  witch.  He  obtained  no  comfort  from  the  necro- 
mancer, and  was  next  day  forced  by  the  Philistines  to  stand  fight.  It 
was  his  last  battle,  and  it  went  hard  against  him.  His  three  sons,  in- 
cluding Jonathan,  were  killed ;  many  of  his  men  were  slain,  and  the  rest 
of  his  army  fled,  leaving  their  king  lying  wounded  by  the  arrows  of  the 
archers,  upon  Mount  Gilboa.  In  this  dreadful  plight  Saul  pleaded  with 
his  armor-bearer  to  finish  the  dire  work  of  the  enemy,  but  even  that 
favor  was  refused  him.  In  his  desperation  he  seized  a  sword,  fell  upon 
it,  and  died.  His  armor-bearer  immediately  followed  suit.  According 
to  custom,  the  Philistines  returned  on  the  day  after  the  battle  to  strip 
the  slain.  When  they  found  the  dead  bodies  of  the  king  and  his  sons, 
they  cut  off  the  royal  head  and  carried  it  to  the  city  of  Bethshean,  their 
Jordan  stronghold,  and  hung  it  to  the  town  wall.  Saul's  armor  was 
carried  to  the  house  of  their  idol,  Ashtaroth.  Then  fleet  messengers 
were  sent  to  every  city  of  the  Philistines.  The  walls  of  every  idol 
temple  rang  with  loud  huzzas  when  the  victorious  news  was  published 
to  the  multitudes  who  assembled  in  them,  and  the  tidings  spread  over 
the  whole  land.  The  cities  of  Saul,  forsaken  by  the  children  of  Israel, 
were  promptly  occupied  by  the  Philistines. 

It  would  seem  now,  Saul  being  dead,  that  the  way  was  clear  for 
David  to  assume  the  responsibilities  of  the  glorious  position  to  which 
he  had  been  anointed,  but  such  was  not  his  opinion.  Saul's  son  Ish- 
bosheth  remained  to  dispute  the  throne.  So,  after  David  had  revealed 
again  the  sweet  elements  of  his  character  evinced  in  his  song  of  lamen- 
tation for  Saul  and  Jonathan,  saying,  among  other  things,  they  "  were 
lovely  and  pleasant  in  their  lives,"  by  divine  direction  he  crossed  over 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS.  157 

to  Hebron  with  all  who  were  with  him,  and  there  established  himself. 
There  he  was  anointed  king  over  the  house  of  Judah.  Meanwhile 
Abner,  the  one  who  goaded  Saul  on  to  destroy  David,  established  Ish- 
bosheth  as  king"  in  Saul's  place  over  the  northern  countries.  A  long 
war  between  the  house  of  Saul  and  the  house  of  David  ensued.  In  a 
weak  moment  Saul's  son  offended  Abner.  Then  the  wily  politician 
turned  color  and  offered  his  services  to  David.  But  this  compact  was 
not  allowed  to  last  long.  There  was  a  blood  feud  against  Abner.  He 
had  cruelly  slain  the  brother  of  Joab  and  Abishai  in  the  battle  of 
Gibeon,  and  they  had  sworn  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country  (a 
custom  which  is  still  followed  there)  to  have  revenge  upon  him.  The 
opportunity  occurred  when  Abner  came  down  to  Hebron  to  offer  his 
ser\dces  to  David.  Joab  had  no  confidence  in  the  man  who  had  so 
many  times  shown  his  spite  against  David,  and  so  told  the  king. 
David's  forgiving  spirit  was  more  than  Joab  could  withstand ;  so,  tak- 
ing Abner  aside  at  the  gate,  he  killed  him.  Saul's  son  did  not  long 
survive  his  right-hand  man.  Thinking  to  add  to  the  power  of  their 
king,  Bechab  and  Baanah  visited  the  house  of  Ish-bosheth,  and  while 
he  lay  on  his  bed  they  slew  him,  and  carried  his  head  to  David. 
Da^dd,  still  true  to  that  one  inflexible  principle  of  his,  which  he  would 
rather  die  than  forego,  namely,  that  no  one  could  "  stretch  his  hand 
against  the  Lord's  anointed  and  be  guiltless,"  was  horribly  shocked  at 
this  well-meant  act  of  fealty.  He  caused  the  assassins  to  be  slain,  their 
hands  and  their  feet  to  be  cut  off,  and  they  hung  up  over  the  pool  in 
Hebron.  The  old  pool,  where  this  horrid  spectacle  took  place,  yet  re- 
mains in  Hebron  (see  page  166).  It  is  only  a  little  way  from  the 
mosque  which  covers  the  tomb  of  Abraham  and  Isaac  and  Jacob  and 
their  wives. 

Comparative  quiet  reigned  for  a  time  now.  David  was  recognized 
as  king  by  all  the  elders  of  Israel.  He  had  certainly  experienced  an 
eventful  life  so  far,  for  so  young  a  man.  He  was  only  thirty  years  of 
age  when  he  began  to  reign  at  Hebron.  He  remained  there  seven 
years  and  a  half.  Everything  grew  and  prospered  under  his  hands, 
except  Hebron,  which  began  to  be  too  small  for  the  capital  of  so  great 
a  king.  Another  must  be  sought.  "When  watching  his  flocks  and  prac- 
tising on  his  harp  on  the  higher  hills  of  his  native  Bethlehem,  he  had 
many  a  time  seen  the  walled  city  with  its  stony  embattlements  which 
topped  one  of  the  highest  hills  to  the  northward.    Indeed,  he  was  fa- 


158  I2f  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

miliar  with  all  of  its  surrounding"  valleys,  and  had  mounted  every 
neighboring  rugged  height.  The  dreamy  ambition  which  he  had  in 
his  early  reign,  to  make  himself  master  of  its  splendid  defences,  as- 
sumed such  shape  that  he  sent  word  to  the  Jebusites,  who  then  held 
the  fort,  that  it  was  his  intention  to  drive  them  out  and  take  possession. 
They  sent  back  his  messengers  with  the  polite  and  confident  reply,  that 
in  substance  amounted  to  the  boast,  that  they  considered  their  city  so 
impregnable  that  only  the  lame  and  the  blind  were  employed  in  its  de- 
fence, and  not  until  David  had  taken  them  away  could  he  pass  the  gates. 
"  Nevertheless,  David  took  the  stronghold  of  Zion  ....  and  called 
it  the  city  of  David."  His  next  step  was  to  convey  the  ark  there.  His 
reign  continued  in  Jerusalem  over  thirty -three  years.  There  is  not 
much  remaining  there  to  trace  his  reign  now,  except  the  hill  of  Zion, 
upon  which  the  principal  portion  of  his  city  stood.  The  splendid  old 
Zion's  gate,  which  opens  into  the  quarter  nearest  to  his  tomb,  looks  as 
though  it  might  serve  as  a  defence  for  another  thousand  years.  It  may 
not  be  the  very  structure  at  which  David  sat  awaiting  the  news  from 
Absalom,  while  the  watchman  went  up  to  the  roof  over  the  gate,  that  he 
might  announce  quickly  the  approach  of  the  running  messenger  who 
was  expected  to  bring  the  tidings,  good  or  bad ;  nor  the  gate  which 
protected  and  upheld  the  chamber  where  David  went  after  Cushi  had 
announced  the  death  of  the  rebellious  son,  and  wept,  saying,  "  Oh,  my 
son  Absalom,  my  son,  my  son  Absalom  !  Would  God  I  had  died  for 
thee,  oh,  Absalom,  my  son,  my  son !  "  Nevertheless,  it  is  situated  very 
near  to  where  the  royal  palace  was,  and  you  may  see  the  same  hills  and 
look  down  or  across  the  same  valleys  which  David  saw  when  undergo- 
ing the  sad  suspense  of  that  fatal  day.  It  overlooks  the  region  of 
Gihon  and  the  pool  near  where  Solomon  was  anointed  king,  and  you 
can  almost  see  down  to  Rachel's  sepulchre  when  you  stand  upon  its 
roof.    It  is  one  of  the  most  ornamental  gates  of  the  city. 

When  we  study  the  character  of  the  modem  Bedouin  we  can  dis- 
cover how  it  might  be  that  Mohammed  drew  some  of  the  fatalistic  ele- 
ments of  his  faith  from  his  interpretations  of  the  character  of  David. 
Ask  a  Bedouin  shepherd-boy  what  he  would  do  if  he  were  lost  and  hun- 
gry, and  his  answer  will  be,  "  I  would  do  nothing — I  would  sit  down  on 
a  rock  and  wait  until  Allah  sent  me  something  to  eat."  If  his  sheep  go 
astray  he  does  not  lose  his  complacency,  but  reasons  thus :  "  Allah 
scattered  my  sheep  ;  when  he  wants  me  to  find  them  he  will  show  me 


THREE  JEWISH  KINQ8.  169 

where  they  are ;  Allah  be  praised."  In  other  words,  notwithstanding 
his  vehement  nature,  as  a  rule,  he  will  not  fret  himself  about  anything. 
Of  course,  I  only  refer  to  the  "  very  religious  "  Bedouin.  There  are 
plenty  who  care  but  little  for  Allah,  who  are  not  so  fatalistic  in  their 
methods.  But  David's  conduct  was  led  always  by  his  implicit  trust  in 
God.  Faith  was  the  platform  on  which  he  walked.  If  he  sometimes 
stepped  over  the  edge  and  fell,  he  always  exhibited  more  enterprise  in 
getting  back  upon  it  than  concern  about  the  roughness  of  the  way,  or 
pleasure  at  its  smoothness.  Samuel  came  to  him  to  anoint  him ;  he 
made  no  office-seeker's  journey  to  the  seer's  capital.  Saul's  people 
sought  him  to  soothe  their  demented  king  by  the  tender  trills  of  his 
harp  ;  he  did  not  leave  his  flocks  and  minstrel  it  under  the  king's  win- 
dow in  order  to  gain  a  position  in  the  royal  household.  Jonathan's 
love,  the  approval  of  the  populace,  the  adulation  of  the  women,  and 
the  gift  of  Saul's  daughter,  Michal,  were  the  result  of  his  brave  conduct 
in  behalf  of  his  people,  and  did  not  grow  out  of  selfish  seeking.  ^Tien 
he  was  an  attache  of  the  king's  house  he  did  what  was  commanded ;  he 
showed  no  resentment  when  the  javelin  was  sent  after  him  with  mur- 
derous intent.  Boyal  favor  and  its  withdrawal  were  accepted  with 
equal  trust.  If  a  net  of  intrigue  was  set  for  his  feet,  he  seemed  to  care 
only  to  get  out  of  its  way  rather  than  to  discover  and  punish  the  con- 
spirator. When  he  saw  that  his  presence  was  an  annoyance  to  his 
king,  he  went  away  as  cheerfully  as  he  came  back  when  reconciliation 
was  offered.  He  raised  no  disturbance  over  trifles.  He  grieved  more 
over  the  death  of  his  enemies  than  he  did  over  their  treatment  of  him. 
He  fled  when  he  heard  of  Absalom's  rebellion,  with  no  plans  ahead.  It 
was  his  owQ  sublime  precept,  "  Fret  not  thyself  because  of  evil-doers," 
which  gave  him  the  courage  to  creep  up  to  the  sleeping  Saul  and  sepa- 
rate a  piece  of  the  royal  garment  with  his  sword.  It  was  the  "  rest  in 
the  Lord  and  wait  patiently  for  him  "  element  in  his  character  which 
prevented  him  from  accepting  immediate  accession  to  the  throne,  and 
si^ared  Saul's  head  at  Adullam  and  in  the  wilderness  of  Ziph. 

A  grateful  king  now  prospered  in  Jerusalem.  Many  of  the  rulers  of 
other  nations  visited  him  and  declared  their  allegiance.  But  as  his 
sons  grew  up  around  him  and  his  advisers  increased  in  years  and  wis- 
dom, the  desire  for  more  territory  also  increased.  David  assented  to 
effort  in  this  direction,  believing  that  he  had  not  yet  done  what  he 
could  to  fulfil  the  Lord's  commands  to  drive  out  the  ancient  occupants 


160  IW  8GBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

of  the  country  and  possess  it  for  Israel.  The  long*  series  of  foreign 
wars,  about  which  the  Bible  tells  us  so  little,  then  followed.  The  Phil- 
istines were  destroyed ;  the  Syrians  were  driven  off ;  the  people  living" 
on  the  Euphrates  were  sent  flying  to  the  other  side  of  the  great  river, 
and  Petra  and  all  the  other  cities  of  Edom  were  conquered.  "While 
these  brilliant  conquests  were  going  on  in  foreign  lands,  a  conspiracy 
was  brewing  in  the  very  home  of  the  triumphant  king.  This  in  time 
resulted  in  his  favorite  son,  Absalom,  organizing  an  army  against  him, 
and  in  the  flight  of  the  king  to  a  hiding-place  over  the  Mount  of 
Olives.  The  plot  of  Absalom  was  to  seize  the  throne  and  place  him- 
self upon  it.  He  had  for  five  years  or  more  been  wandering  about 
away  from  his  home,  shirking  his  duties  of  state  as  the  heir  apparent, 
ignoring  all  filial  duty  to  the  father  whose  favorite  son  he  was,  and 
currying  favor  for  himself  wherever  he  could.  He  took  special 
pains  to  gather  the  sentiment  of  the  populace  as  to  his  father,  and 
learned  that  no  little  opposition  to  David  lurked  here  and  there  be- 
cause of  his  plain  way  of  living.  Instead  of  quieting  down  to  a  home 
life  such  as  David  followed  at  Jerusalem,  spending  the  state's  funds 
for  singers  and  players,  they  felt  that  more  pomp  and  display  should 
be  indulged  in,  so  that  the  envy  and  respect  of  other  nations  might  be 
excited  universally.  Wherever  such  whisperings  were  heard,  Absalom 
fanned  them  into  a  flame  of  opposition  to  the  Lord's  anointed,  and 
paved  the  way  to  the  throne  for  himself.  His  personal  appearance  and 
his  insinuating  manners  helped  him  on  to  success.  "  He  stole  the 
hearts  of  the  men  of  Israel."  Then,  when  his  father  was  depressed  and 
weakened  by  a  sad  malady,  the  heartless  son  fired  the  fuses  which  he 
had  set,  excited  the  populace,  and  they  declared  for  Absalom  as  king. 
David  retreated  from  the  strong  city  gate  down  to  the  "  King's  Dale," 
and  then  up  through  the  thickets  to  the  Mount  of  Olives,  on  the  quick 
march  to  the  other  side  of  the  Jordan.  It  was  a  sad  day  for  him.  His 
family  and  servants  were  sent  to  cross  near  Jericho,  over  to  the  other 
side,  but  he  remained  hidden  on  the  mountain.  Absalom,  meanwhile, 
held  a  council  of  war  at  which  Hushai,  one  of  David's  friends,  was 
present.  It  was  determined  to  follow  David  and  take  his  life,  if  possi- 
ble, without  further  bloodshed.  The  news  was  carried  to  David,  and 
forces  gathered  in  defence.  The  crisis  came  "  in  the  wood  of  Ephraim," 
east  of  the  Jordan  and  not  very  far  from  Jericho.  There  was  a  great 
deal  more  wood  there  then  than  there  is  now,  for  although  the  slaugh- 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS. 


161 


ter  at  the  terrible  battle  which  ensued  was  dreadful,  "  the  wood  de- 
voured more  people  that  day  than  the  sword  devoured."  Absalom,  the 
conspirator,  was  among:  those  who  were  lost  in  the  wood.  The  mule  he 
rode,  frig-htened  at  the  confusion  about  him,  became  uncontrollable  and 
rushed  into  the  thicket.  Alas !  for  Absalom.  His  splendid  hair  be- 
came the  cause  of  his  death.  It  caught  in  the  boughs  of  an  oak  and 
held  him.  His  mule  ran  from  under  him  and  left  the  would-be  king" 
suspended  suddenly,  like  a  victim  of  modern  justice,  "between  the 
heaven  and  the  earth."  The 
thrusts  which  followed  from 
the  three  spears  of  Joab, 
augmented  by  the  earnest 
smiting  of  the  ten  young 
men  who  bore  Joab's  armor, 
caused  the  death  of  the  help- 
less son  of  King  David.  There 
was  not  much  ceremony  at 
his  burial.  He  was  thrown 
into  a  pit  in  the  wood,  near 
where  he  fell,  and  a  great 
heap  of  stones  was  laid  upon 
him. 

Once  more  restored  to 
power,  after  the  days  of 
mourning  for  his  recreant 
son  were  over,  David  devoted 
himself  to  the  preparation  of  his  "  last  words  "  to  his  people.  His 
perturbed  life  had  made  him  long  for  peace  and  rest,  but  it  was 
not  to  come  to  him  yet.  Not  only  did  a  hateful  plague  visit  the 
land,  but  another  rebellion  took  place  in  his  household.  It  was  part 
of  his  plan  that  Solomon,  his  youngest  son,  should  succeed  to  the 
throne.  This  raised  the  ire  of  Adonijah,  the  older  son,  and  there 
was  great  excitement  round  about  Jerusalem  for  a  time.  Adonijah, 
determined  on  usurping  the  kingdom,  called  a  conference  of  his  breth- 
ren and  others  in  power.  They  met  down  in  the  valley  just  south 
of  the  present  gardens  of  Siloam,  at  En-Rogel.  A  grand  feast  was 
given  by  the  ambitious  prince,  but  Solomon  was  not  included  in  the 

invitations  to  be  present.     The  feast  was  not  ended  before  the  good 
11 


Gihon,  where  Solomon  was  Anointed. 


162  ZZV  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

old-fashioned  way  of  appealing"  to  men  through  their  stomachs  began 
to  work,  and  the  sides  of  the  picturesque  valley  rang  with  the  cry, 
"  God  save  King  Adonijah  !  "  While  the  feast  went  on  the  news  was 
carried  to  David.  Always  quick  when  he  felt  that  he  was  right,  he 
summoned  Zadok,  the  priest,  and  Nathan,  the  prophet,  with  others,  to 
his  side,  and  ordered  preparation  made  for  the  immediate  crowning  of 
Solomon.  The  Bible  narrative  is  short  and  graphic  :  "  The  king  also 
said  unto  them,  take  with  you  the  servants  of  your  Lord,  and  cause 
Solomon,  my  son,  to  ride  upon  mine  own  mule  and  bring  him  down  to 
Gihon.  And  let  Zadok,  the  priest,  and  Nathan,  the  prophet,  anoint 
him  there,  king  over  Israel ;  and  blow  ye  with  the  trumpets,  and  say, 
God  save  King  Solomon." 

The  king's  desires  were  soon  fulfilled.  The  little  party  did  not 
have  to  go  far  for  the  ceremony.  Gihon,  with  its  lovely  gardens,  was 
just  in  the  valley  below  the  royal  palace,  scarce  a  stone's  throw  from 
the  strong  gate  of  Zion.  There  is  a  great  reservoir  there  now,  which 
for  many  centuries  has  been  one  of  the  water-supplies  of  Jerusalem. 
Pictured  with  the  western  side  of  the  city,  it  forms  one  of  the  most 
interesting  views — ^so  full  of  history — in  the  neighborhood.  The  news 
of  the  anointing  of  Solomon  was  carried  to  King  David  and  to  "  King  " 
Adonijah  simultaneously ;  it  soon  spread  to  all  quarters.  King  David 
was  in  bed ;  Adonijah  and  his  friends  had  just  ended  their  feast  when 
the  tidings  came.  Fear  seized  the  conspirators,  and  they  forsook  their 
chosen  "king." 

We  turn  now  to  the  reign  of  Solomon.  It  followed  through  forty 
years  of  wonderful  prosperity,  seven  of  which  were  occupied  in  build- 
ing the  temple.  In  the  beginning  "  a  wise  and  understanding  heart  " 
was  given  to  him,  and  for  many  a  long  year  he  allowed  himself  to  be 
guided  by  it.  For  the  first  time  in  their  experience  the  men  of  Israel 
had  a  king  who  seemed  to  fulfil  their  ideal.  The  king  was  the  head  of 
the  nation,  and  they  wanted  to  be  viewed  by  other  nations  with  respect 
and  with  awe,  if  possible.  Instead  of  waging  war,  Solomon  turned  his 
attention  to  travel  and  merchandise.  He  gave  heart  and  hand  to  an 
Egyptian  princess,  a  daughter  of  Pharaoh.  She  must  have  charmed 
him  during  one  of  his  journeys  to  the  Nile  country.  Hiram,  king  of 
Tyre,  became  his  fast  friend,  and  the  queen  of  Sheba  made  the  long 
journey  from  her  home  to  Jerusalem,  in  order  to  see,  and  to  carry  pres- 
ents to  King  Solomon.    The  gold  of  Ophir  and  the  spices  of  Arabia 


THREE  JEWISH  KINGS. 


163 


were  brought  over  the  seas  and  across  the  desert  to  enrich  him.  His 
warriors  were  supplied  with  targets  of  gold ;  he  sate  upon  a  throne  of 
ivory  which  had  six  steps,  and  upon  each  step  stood  a  lion.  All  the 
drinking-vessels  of  the  temple  and  of  the  household  were  of  solid  gold. 
Every  three  years  the  ships  came  up  from  Tarshish  laden  for  him. 
He  became  rich, 
and  he  was  wiser 
than  any  king  on 
the  face  of  the 
earth.  Everything 
seemed  to  prosper 
under  his  hands. 
But  his  wisdom 
forsook  him.  Dur- 
ing his  travels  in 
foreign  lands  he 
married  other 
wives,  and  they 
turned  his  heart 
after  other  gods. 
On  one  of  the 
hills  southeast  of 
the  grand  temple 
which  he  had  dedi- 
cated to  the  Lord, 
he  erected  "  high 
places"  for  the 
worship  of  those 
false  gods.     Even 

Moloch  was  honored  thus,  and  little  children  were  sacrificed  to  that 
"  abomination  of  the  children  of  Ammon."  The  downfall  of  the  great, 
rich,  and  wise  king  quickly  followed.  Hearing  of  his  weakness,  his  ad- 
versaries began  to  close  in  upon  him  from  Damascus,  and  from  Edom, 
and  from  Egypt.  His  kingdom  went  from  his  hands,  and  he  was  left 
but  the  title  of  a  prince  "  for  his  father,  David's  sake."  He  died,  and 
his  son  Kehoboam  reigned  in  his  stead. 

How  the  mighty  have  fallen !     All  the  witness  that  is  left  of  Saul  is 
the  time-scarred  monolith  of  Gilboa.     Thanks  to  David's  poetic,  devout 


The  Eastern  Pool  of  Solomon. 


164:  Ilf  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

nature,  besides  the  few  doubtful  traces  of  him  remaining"  at  Jerusalem, 
we  have  the  study  of  a  sweet  and  noble  youth ;  a  record  of  his  relations 
with  Saul,  abounding  in  lessons  of  loveliness  and  goodness ;  the  story 
of  his  reign,  which  abounded  in  sufficient  that  was  saintly  to  make  us 
forgive  his  humanity.  We  also  inherit  the  legacy  of  his  immortal 
songs.  The  Song  of  Songs,  the  warnings  of  Ecclesiastes,  and  the 
Book  of  Proverbs  will  always  keep  the  memory  of  Solomon  fresh  in 
the  hearts  of  every  Christian,  Hebrew,  and  Mohammedan.  Poet,  phil- 
osopher, mystic,  and  moralist  he  was.  Even  more,  he  was  a  public 
benefactor.  Far  down  in  the  vale  between  Jerusalem  and  Hebron,  not 
far  from  Eachel's  sepulchre,  a  mile  from  Bethlehem,  in  a  country  famil- 
iar to  Samuel,  Saul,  and  David,  are  three  characters  in  deep,  clear  in- 
taglio, cut  in  the  hills  by  his  hand.  There  is  no  Semitic  mystery  about 
their  conformation.  They  are  plain  to  all.  They  are  the  pools  which 
gave  living  water  to  Jerusalem,  the  city  of  David,  and  to  Bethlehem, 
the  birthplace  of  the  king  of  Glory.  If  they  mean  any  more  than  that, 
may  it  not  be  that  they  stand  for  Solomon  the  Wise  ? 


CHAPTEK  YH. 

m  THE   SOUTH   COUNTRY. 

Hebron. — The  Cave  of  Maclipelali. — The  Pool, — Abraham's  Oak. — The  Vineyards  of  Esh- 
col. — The  Pools  of  Solomon. — Bethlehem. — The  Birthplace  of  Jesus.— Bethany. — 
The  Tomb  of  Lazarus. — The  House  of  Martha  and  Mary. — The  Women  of  Bethany. 
The  Convent  of  Mar  Saba.— The  Dead  Sea.— The  Jordan.  — Pilgrims'  Bathing 
Place. — Decapolis  and  the  Cities  of  Perea. — The  Jordan  toward  Moab. — Jericho. — 
The  Fountain  of  Elisha. — The  Climb  up  to  Jerusalem. 

T3ETUENING  to  our  journeying",  wo  come  once  again  to  the  "plain 
-^*^  of  Mamre,"  and  visit  Hebron.  Hebron  is  the  oldest  towa  in  the 
world  which  has  maintained  a  continuous  existence.  To  one  coming" 
up  from  a  tiresome  wandering  in  the  wilds  of  the  scorched  desert, 
where  only  an  occasional  oasis  occurs  to  sustain  faith  in  that  stage  of 
creation  when  God  said,  "  Let  the  earth  bring  forth  grass,  the  herb 
yielding  seed,  and  the  fruit-tree  yielding  fruit  after  his  kind,"  this  first 
sight  of  Holy  Land  is  an  enchanting  one,  yet  one,  as  was  afterward 
found,  where  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the  view.  The  hills  and 
the  valleys  alike  are  clothed  with  olive-groves,  orange-trees,  and  vine- 
yards ;  figs,  mulberries,  almonds,  pomegranates,  and  vegetables  like 
our  ovm.  melons  and  cucumbers  also  abound.  Streams  of  water  run 
hither  and  thither  and  murmur  music  which  gladdens  the  heart  of  the 
weary  traveller.     But  the  cities  and  towns  have  but  little  of  beauty. 

It  is  no  wonder  that  Caleb's  heart  always  turned  back  to  this  region 
after  his  visit  to  it  as  a  spy,  regardless  of  the  threatening  appearance 
of  the  children  of  Anak.  Surely  Joshua  was  just  when  he  "  blessed 
him,  and  gave  unto  Caleb,  the  son  of  Jephunneh,  Hebron  for  an  inher- 
itance." Caleb  was  not  afraid,  and  he  revered  the  place  for  good  rea- 
sons. The  frugal  and  industrious  husbandman  still  cares  for  this  his- 
torical plain.  Seated  upon  the  mountain  south  of  the  vale  of  Eshcol, 
one  can  see  just  where  Joshua  and  "  all  Israel  with  him  "  fought  against 
Hebron ;  where  the  fugitives  used  to  run  into  this  city  of  refuge  and 
fall,  panting  with  fear,  at  the  comer  of  the  great  pool,  saved  as  soon  as 


166 


IN  8CBIPTUBE  LANDS, 


they  touched  its  wall ;  doubtless  the  very  route  over  which  the  spies 
came,  and  undoubtedly  the  narrow  valley  through  which  Abraham  hur- 
ried his  three  hundred  and  eighteen  trained  servants  up  toward  Dan 
to  rescue  his  kinsman  Lot,  who  had  been  captured  by  the  four  kings. 
There,  too,  on  the  far  left,  is  Abraham's  oak,  said  to  mark  the  spot 
where  the  patriarch's  tent  was  when  the  angels  visited  him ;  on  the 
right,  glistening  like  a  gigantic  mirror  in  the  sun,  is  the  great  pool, 
upon  the  farther  wall  of  which  David  hanged  the  heads  of  the  kings 
who  had  murdered  Ish-bosheth,  the  son  of  his  rival  Saul.  A  won- 
derful amount  of  history  clusters  about   this  valley  and  the  well- 


The  Pool  in  Hebron  where  David  Hung  the  Murderers  of  ish-bosheth. 


cultivated  inclines  which  shape  it.  Adjoining  the  tents  of  my  party 
were  those  of  two  young  sons  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  their  com- 
panions. We  were  told  that  the  streets  of  Hebron  had  been  cleaned 
for  the  princes,  yet  the  passages  seemed  very  filthy  after  coming  from 
the  clean,  dry  wadies  of  the  Negeb  and  the  stony  highways  of  the 
wilderness  of  Kadesh.  The  bazars  of  Hebron  are  dark  and  damp. 
Only  a  small  opening  in  the  wall  here  and  there  allows  the  light  to 
come  in,  and  for  such  a  blessing  extra  rent  is  charged.  The  streets  are 
crowded,  and  the  crowds  are  motley  enough.  The  tawny  gypsy,  the 
brown  Bedouin  of  the  desert,  the  spiritless  Syrian,  and  the  pale,  blue- 
eyed  Jew,  with  his  greasy  red  lovelocks,  provide  a  gradation  of  color 
as  well  as  a  variety  of  types.    All  of  the  women  do  not  cover  their 


IJSr  THE  SOUTH  COUNTBT.  16T 

faces ;  but  if  they  were  faithful  to  the  cause  of  beauty  and  of  Moham- 
med they  would.  The  children  are  chubby  and  pretty,  but  insolent, 
pert,  and  dirty.  They  spit  upon  the  stranger  and  throw  stones  at  him. 
The  manufacture  of  glass  beads  is  carried  on  extensively  at  Hebron, 
and  the  preparation  of  goat-skins  for  carr3dng  water  is  also  a  principal 
industry. 

Of  course  the  great  attraction  of  the  town  is  the  old  mosque.  It 
is  entered  by  quite  a  pretentious  stairway,  with 
a  fountain  on  the  right-hand  side  of  an  arched 
doorway  of  red  and  black  and  yellow  stones.  It 
looks  older  than  the  Nile  temples.  Its  walls  are 
of  long,  bevelled  stones,  with  nearly  three  inches 
of  cement  or  mortar  between  them.  As  a  rule. 
Christians  are  not  admitted  inside,  but  Jews  are 
permitted  to  go  as  far  as  the  inner  wall  of  the 
cave   enclosure,  where,  near  a  small  hole,  they 

f  The  Cave  of  Machpelah. 

wail  and  weep  as  they  do  at  the  Haram  wall  in 

Jerusalem.  From  the  top  of  the  outer  wall,  however,  reached  from  the 
roof  of  an  old  mosque,  the  traveller  may  look  down  into  the  court  and 
see  and  photograph  the  door  or  entrance  to  the  Cave  of  Machpelah. 
It  is  in  no  way  pretentious — only  a  pointed  arch  crossed  by  a  wall 
reaching  up  about  eight  feet,  and  broken  by  a  low,  arched  entrance  in 
the  centre,  with  a  square  aperture  at  each  side  to  admit  light.  Yet 
this  is  the  most  interesting  sepulchre  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  for  in- 
side are  the  graves  of  Abraham,  Isaac,  Jacob,  Sarah,  Bebekah,  and 
Leah.  No  site  in  Palestine  is  more  authentic,  and  none  so  carefully 
guarded.  And  no  road  in  Palestine  is  more  dreadful  than  the  narrow, 
rocky  bridle-path  which  leads  up  to  Jerusalem.  Worse  still,  the  desert 
traveller  bids  farewell  to  his  camels  at  Hebron  and  takes  to  the  saddle. 
This  involves  a  change  of  attendants,  too,  and  that  is  never  pleasant. 
Besides,  for  a  long  journey,  I  am  convinced  that  camel-riding  is  easier 
than  horseback  riding.  As  many  miles  per  day  are  not  accomplished, 
but  the  traveller  is  much  less  wearied  at  the  end  of  the  day.  Abra- 
ham's Oak  and  the  Yineyards  of  Eshcol  are  visited  on  the  way  north. 
Many  ruins  are  passed  on  the  way.  On  nearly  every  hill-top  old 
walls,  columns,  or  solid  doorways  mark  the  place  where  once  a  pros- 
perous city  of  Judaea  must  have  stood.  Our  poor  horses  slipped  and 
stumbled  over  the  slimy  stones  and  bruised  their  shoulders  against  the 


16^  11^  SCMIPTUBE  LANDS. 

walls.  We  were  not  acquainted  with  each  other  very  well,  and  some- 
times we  dismounted  that  man  and  beast  might  get  along  better.  In 
three  hours  the  pools  of  Solomon  are  reached.  These  great  reservoirs, 
three  in  number,  lie  in  a  deep  ravine,  and  are  fed  by  neighboring 
springs.  They  were  built  by  King  Solomon.  Aqueducts  still  exist, 
which  led  the  useful  element  to  the  Garden  of  Elam^  and  the  holy 
city.  The  eastern  one  (see  page  163)  is  582  feet  long,  207  feet  wide,  and 
over  50  feet  deep.  Its  neighbors  are  larger.  At  the  northwest  comer 
of  the  smaller  pool  is  the  old  Castle  of  El-Burak,  erected  for  the  pro- 
tection of  Solomon's  Pools. 

We  are  now  but  a  few  hours'  ride  from  Jerusalem.  Impatient 
though  we  may  be  to  enter  its  gates,  we  must  first  divert  a  little  from 
our  journey  and  make  a  halt  at  Bethlehem. 

The  principal  point  of  interest  there  now,  is,  of  course,  the  Church 
of  St.  Mary,  or  the  Church  of  the  Nativity,  as  it  is  usually  called.  It  is 
a  quaint  old  structure  and  rather  bare  inside.  Bethlehem  is  one  of  the 
most  attractive  cities  of  Palestine.  A  market-place  where  sheep  and 
goats  are  sold  is  in  the  foreground  of  our  view  of  the  city,  and  near  by 
is  the  Church  of  Saint  Mary.  Within  the  church  is  the  reputed  place 
where  Jesus  was  born.  Bethlehem  is  about  as  clean  a  city  as  there  is 
in  Palestine.  Its  population  is  largely  Christian.  The  visitor  is  con- 
ducted by  a  monk  through  an  arched  doorway  underneath  the  church, 
which  leads  to  the  spot  where  it  is  said  Christ  was  bom — "  the  spot  of 
the  nativity."  A  cave  is  shown  as  the  place.  It  is  lighted  by  richly 
wrought  and  costly  lamps,  and  attended  by  monks  of  three  creeds — 
Latin,  Greek,  and  Armenian.  The  pile  of  buildings  devoted  to  their 
various  convents  is  immense,  as  is  also  the  difference  in  their  creeds. 

After  a  ride  to  the  field  of  the  shepherds,  a  visit  to  Bethany  fol- 
lowed. A  x^rettier  bit  of  country  than  this  route  includes  does  not  exist 
in  Palestine.  As  the  approach  to  the  town  is  made  one  may  catch 
varied  glimpses  of  the  Dead  Sea  on  the  right.  Combined  with  the  sur- 
rounding country,  it  looks  like  a  diamond  in  an  emerald  setting,  spark- 
ling in  the  sun.  How  the  heart  leaps  when  one  realizes  that  he  is  in- 
deed looking  upon  scenes  which  fanaticism  and  over-much  zeal  cannot 
change  in  either  location  or  beauty.  This  is,  indeed,  holy  ground. 
Turning  the  eyes  to  the  left,  we  see  again,  this  time  nearer,  a  view  of 
the  hills  about  Bethany.  Fig  and  olive  orchards  abound  here,  and 
some  pretentious  houses  are  perched  upon  the  rocky  terraces.     It  is  a 


Bethlehem,  from  the  Church  of  the  Nativity. 


170 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


fine  farm  country  for  Palestine.  Within  the  town  are  several  tradi- 
tional points  of  interest,  as  the  "  houses  "  of  Martha  and  Mary  (one  a 
Latin  site,  and  another  of  Greek  persuasion),  and  the  tomb  of  Lazarus. 
The  reputed  tomb  of  Lazarus  is  far  beneath  the  surface,  in  the  rock, 
and  is  easy  to  enter  for  a  small  fee.  Twenty-nine  steps  lead  down  into 
the  tomb,  all  hewn  out  of  the  rock.  The  visit  thereto  is  by  no  means  a 
pleasant  experience,  especially  as  we  are  led  by  a  surly  Mohammedan, 
who  keeps  counting  his  beads,  lest  the  "  Christian  dog* "  contaminate 
the  dirty  dungeon.     Up,  then,  to  the  air  again,  through  one  or  two  nar- 


Bethany. 


row,  dirty  streets,  when,  after  waiting  a  long  time  for  a  wide  gate  to  be 
opened  for  us  by  our  churlish  attendant  at  the  tomb,  we  enter  an  en- 
closure and  are  shown  the  ruins  of  the  reputed  house  of  Martha  and 
Mary — according  to  the  Latin  persuasion.  When  the  earnest  traveller 
is  not  satisfied  with  the  traditions  and  stories  of  the  custodians  at  these 
places  he  can  comfort  himself  with  the  surroundings  of  nature.  Along 
yonder  pathway  Jesus  walked  daily — and  the  hills  are  as  he  saw  them. 
Not  far  away  was  his  dwelling-place. 

Here,  at  Bethany,  we  saw  the  "  father  "  idea  illustrated  as  prettily 
as  in  the  Arabian  desert.  If  a  child  enters  an  apartment  where  its 
father  is,  it  will  not  sit  down  or  speak  until  the  father  notices  it  and 


JiV^  THE  SOUTH  GOUNTBT. 


m 


bids  it  be  seated.  Moreover,  if  children  grown  up  to  some  size  enter 
and  find  the  father  engaged  in  any  labor — beating  coffee  in  the  mortar, 
for  example — the  youth  will  assume  the  work  and  go  on  with  it. 

No  one  can  visit 
Bethany  without  be- 
ing impressed  with 
a  sense  of  its  sacred- 
ness.  It  is  lovely 
for  situation,  and  its 
people  are  different 
from  the  rest  of  their 
countrymen.  There 
seems  to  be  a  con- 
tented community 
there,  in  pleasant 
contrast  with  the 
wretches  of  Jericho. 
The  people  politely 
welcome  the  stran- 
ger; the  oldest  in- 
habitant exhibits 
the  few  attractions 
of  the  town ;  the 
women   serve  fresh 

buffalo-milk  to  the  visitor;  the  children  are  many,  pretty,  and  shy. 
Their  good  traits  are  all  the  more  apparent  after  one  has  been  stoned 
by  the  urchins  of  Hebron,  and  hooted  at  by  those  of  Jerusalem  and 
other  places.  The  women  of  Bethany  are  just  such  as  we  picture  Martha 
and  Mary  to  have  been.  Many  of  them  are  employed  in  carrying  milk  to 
Jerusalem.  Large  baskets  filled  with  tiny  tin-cans  are  poised  upon  their 
heads,  and  their  babies  are  carried  in  sacks  upon  the  maternal  backs. 

A  journey  from  Bethany  to  the  Dead  Sea  is  full  of  interest.  The 
convent  of  Marsaba  is  visited  on  the  way,  for  of  all  the  convents  in 
Palestine  this  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  and  picturesque.  Here, 
from  A.D.  437  until  his  death,  St.  Sabas  gathered  around  him  thousands 
of  devoted  followers.  And  devoted  they  must  have  been  to  have  come 
to  this  place,  for  it  is  stem  and  gloomy  to  the  last  degree.  It  is,  how- 
ever, admirably  adapted  to  the  uses  of  the  monks  who  hold  it  and 


The  House  of  Mary  and   Martha. 


in 


m  SGBIPTURE  LANDS, 


guard  it  to  this  day  with  inhospitable,  if  holy  zeal.  The  structure  pre- 
sents a  curious  freak  of  architecture.  It  is  said  to  have  been  built  at 
different  periods,  its  first  rooms  being-  hewn  out  of  the  rocks,  then 
walls  and  buttresses  added,  until  it  is  hard  now  to  tell  how  much  of  it 
is  masonry  and  how  much  nature.     Subterranean  passages,  long  flights 

of  stairs,  dark -galleries, 
cells,  secret  entrances,  and 
hidden  recesses,  make  up  a 
whole  that  is  sufficiently 
weird  and  mysterious  to  ex- 
cite the  imagination  and 
make  us  easily  believe  that 
its  history,  like  the  history 
of  most  of  the  holy  places 
in  this  country,  is  stained 
with  blood.  Once  those 
walls  echoed  to  the  groans 
of  dying  martyrs,  and  dur- 
ing the  fierce  struggles  be- 
tween the  Crescent  and  the 
Cross,  who  shall  say  what 
tragic  scenes,  what  bloody 
dramas  were  enacted  within 
the  shadows  of  that  gloomy 
pile.  And  even  now  the 
wild  Bedouins  of  the  desert 
are  watching  it,  ready  at 
any  time  to  rob  it  of  its 
treasure,  should  the  vigi- 
lance of  the  monks  be  for  one  moment  relaxed.  The  traveller  usually 
leaves  the  convent  by  the  back  door  and  clambers  up  the  side  of  the 
Kidron  Yalley,  which  he  follows  for  some  time.  The  scene  is  a  most 
wild  and  romantic  one.  Twice  the  snowy  peaks  of  Mount  Hermon  are 
seen.  Flocks  of  startled  partridges  fly  up  from  the  roadside  frequent- 
ly, and  away  up  against  the  sky  are  often  seen  great  lines  of  vultures 
and  storks  playing  in  the  air.  It  is  a  beautiful  sight  to  see  these 
great  feathery  caravans,  now  their  dark  parts  presented  to  us,  absorb- 
ing the  light  like  a  wind-cloud,  now  their  white  feathers  shining  like 


Women  of  Bethany. 


IS  THE  SOUTH  COUNTRY.  173 

silver  in  the  sun,  else  in  grand  contrast,  one  against  the  other.  Next 
they  circle  round  and  round,  high  in  air ;  then  falling  into  line  again, 
they  drop  like  lead  until  one  can  almost  distinguish  their  feathers. 
Thus  swinging  back  and  forth  and  swirling  to  and  fro,  their  line  of 
travel  seemed  like  a  mighty  river.  Such  manoeuvring  is  indescribable, 
and  so  are  all  the  scenes  presented  in  this  old,  old  land  to  the  appreci- 
ative traveller  on  his  way  to  the  Dead  Sea. 

This  remarkable  body  of  water  lies  1,292  feet  lower  than  the  ordi- 
nary sea-level.  It  is  about  forty  miles  long  and  nine  miles  wide.  The 
water  is  beautifully  clear,  but  bitter  and  salt.  It  acts  upon  the  mouth 
like  alum,  and  upon  the  hair  like  vaseline.  Instead  of  fish  it  sends  up 
masses  of  bitumen,  and  its  shores  are  lined  with  pumice-stone.  Great 
tall  figures  are  seen  here  and  there  composed  of  salt.  One  of  them  is 
called  "  Lot's  wife,"  and  may  well  be  taken  for  a  model  of  wrecked 
humanity.  Vegetation  is  unknown  here,  but  small  quantities  of  drift- 
wood have  come  down  with  the  Jordan  and  washed  ashore.  We  may 
see  in  the  distance  the  hills  over  which  we  have  clambered,  and  the 
very  ravine  in  which  St.  Sabas's  Convent  reposes.  Turning  about, 
quite  a  different  aspect  is  presented,  for  then  the  Dead  Sea  toward 
Moab  is  seen.  Far  across,  eastward,  are  the  hills  of  Moab.  North- 
ward, less  than  a  mile,  the  turbid  waters  of  the  Jordan  empty  into  the 
bitter  billows  of  the  sea,  while  further  south  the  blue  waters  cover  the 
fated  cities  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah.  Deut.  xxix.  23.  A  little  island 
seems  to  invite  us  to  visit  it,  and  the  traveller  usually  determines  to 
make  the  effort  to  accept  the  invitation,  though,  as  a  rule,  without  suc- 
cess. The  water  is  lovely  in  appearance — quiet  and  still  as  death. 
Not  a  sound  disturbs  the  Dead  Sea,  for  there  are  no  inhabitants  upon 
its  shores  except  wild  Bedouins.  Dead,  indeed,  is  everything  about 
this  strange  body  of  water,  and  bitterer  than  Marah  to  the  taste.  Yet, 
dead  though  it  is,  it  seemed  to  be  possessed  by  some  lively  demon, 
for,  when  attempting  to  float  in  it,  our  feet  were  sent  flying  up  in  the 
air,  and  our  heads  would  have  been  submerged  had  we  not  been  on  the 
alert  and  sat  upright  in  the  water,  sinking  but  a  few  inches  below  the 
surface.  Most  terribly  hot  was  it  here,  too.  Gathering  some  broken 
branches,  my  companions  and  I  formed  a  tent  frame,  and,  throwing 
coats  and  rugs  thereon,  crept  under  their  shade  while  we  ate  our  lunch. 

Where  the  Jordan  empties  into  the  Dead  Sea  a  long,  muddy  line  is 
seen  for  quite  a  distance,  for  the  Jordan  water  is  usually  anything  but 


174 


IJSr  8GRIPTUBE  LANDS. 


clean.  But  the  luxuriant  spring"  foliage,  the  blossoms  on  the  trees,  and 
the  bright  flowers  on  the  banks,  were  surely  more  satisfying  with  all 
their  life  than  the  scene  of  deadness  and  death  which  we  had  left  but 
so  short  a  time  ago.     Near  here  it  is  said  Christ  was  baptized ;  here 

the  Israelites  cross- 
ed from'  Moab,  and 
here  Elijah  divided 
the  waters  with  his 
mantle.  Here,  dur- 
ing Easter  week, 
Christian  pilgrims 
from  all  parts  of  the 
world  come  to  bathe. 
With  noise  and 
pomp,  such  as  only 
the  Arabs  can  af- 
fect, they  come,  they 
bathe,  they  return. 
At  nearly  all  sea- 
sons of  the  year  the 
water  is  so  turbu- 
lent, and  the  ap- 
proach thereto  so 
marshy,  as  to  make 
it  almost  impossible 
to  reach  it,  to  say 
nothing  of  bathing 
in  it.  On  the  opposite  side  a  closer  view  of  the  hills  of  Moab  is  seen. 
The  Jordan  is  the  most  interesting  river  on  earth.  One's  voice  could 
almost  reach  from  here  to  the  Dead  Sea,  or  over  to  the  Plains  of  Jeri- 
cho on  the  west.  It  must  have  been  near  this  place  where  Jesus  crossed 
when  he  visited  Decapolis  and  Perea.  No  strict  account  is  given  us 
of  the  route  of  the  Divine  Teacher.  It  probably  led  from  Dan,  through 
the  coasts  of  Galilee  to  the  "  waters  of  Merom,"  and  along  the  Jordan 
to  Capernaum.  From  there  the  west  shore  of  the  sea  may  have  been 
followed,  but  probably  the  quieter  upland  country  was  chosen,  and  the 
bases  of  Mount  Tabor  and  Little  Hermon  were  passed  within  close 
range.     The  Jordan  was  crossed  at  Bethshean,  the  town  where  the 


,w;dan  toward  Moab. 


IW  THE  SOUTH  COUNTRY.  175 

corpses  of  Saul  and  his  sons  were  fastened  up  to  the  wall  by  the  Phil- 
istines. It  is  within  four  miles  of  the  Jordan,  and  was  the  only  city  of 
Decapolis  west  of  the  river.     Both  ford  and  bridge  are  there. 

The  natural  scenery  of  Perea  is  lovely.  There  are  forests  of  old 
oak-trees  among"  whose  gray,  moss-covered  branches  song-birds  of  trop- 
ical beauty  dart  in  and  out.  Gardens,  olive-groves,  vineyards,  and  fer- 
tile meadows  are  numerous,  all  tipped  toward  the  Jordan  and  the  west- 
em  sun.  Sometimes  the  buildings  of  the  villages  are  overrun  with 
climbing  vines.  Wild  flowers,  plants,  and  shrubs  grow  according  to 
their  oa\ti  sweet  will.  Almost  always  one  can  climb  to  some  adjacent 
elevation,  and  see  the  snow-clad  line  of  Mount  Hermon  in  the  north, 
the  blue  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea  in  the  south,  and  the  long  line  of  over- 
hanging foliage  which  marks  the  track  of  the  Jordan.  Beyond  the 
river  the  country  from  Jerusalem  to  Carmel  is  discernible,  with  the 
varied  prospects  of  wood  and  hill,  mountain,  lake,  and  sea.  In  the 
spring  one  can,  from  almost  any  elevation,  count  thousands  of  the 
black  tents  of  the  Arabs,  who  from  north,  south,  and  east  herd  their 
flocks  here,  and  as  warm  weather  approaches  gradually  work  their  way 
up  the  mountain  inclines.  They  are  usually  friendly  with  the  vis- 
itor, but  they  themselves  live  in  constant  dread  of  the  wild  wandering 
Bedouin. 

Nineteen  hundred  years  ago  Decapolis  was  not  such  a  pastoral  land 
as  it  is  now.  The  remains  of  perhaps  as  many  as  twenty  cities  of  the 
past  may  be  seen  from  the  higher  ruins  of  any  one  of  them.  Their 
massive  walls,  their  noble  triumphal  arches,  their  forests  of  columns 
still  stand,  because  the  wanderer  of  the  country  prefers  his  tent  to  a 
dwelling-place  among  these  ruins,  and  the  vandal  seldom  comes  in  this 
direction.  A  massively  constructed  triumphal  arch  or  gateway,  with  a 
smaller  arched  passage  on  each  side,  gave  entrance  to  Gerasa,  which  is 
situated  about  twenty  miles  east  of  the  Jordan  and  twenty-five  miles 
north  of  Philadelphia,  the  ancient  Babbath-Ammon.  As  one  enters  the 
main  street,  the  ruined  temple  is  seen  on  the  left — a  magnificent  pile. 
It  looks  like  a  portion  of  Baalbec.  Its  columns  were  forty  feet  high 
and  six  feet  in  diameter.  A  comer  pinnacle  still  stands  erect.  Close 
to  the  temple  is  a  theatre  which  would  seat  six  thousand  people.  Near 
by  are  the  ruins  of  another  theatre,  and  both  show  what  wealth  and 
taste  were  expended  upon  places  of  amusement.  No  traces  of  any 
wheeled  vehicle  are  ever  seen  in  the  majority  of  the  towns  of  Pales- 


176  IW  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

tine  ;  but  here,  along  the  paved  causeway,  the  deep-cut  ruts  of  chariot- 
wheels  are  as  plainly  visible  as  those  at  Pompeii.  Gerasa  is  almost 
unknown  to  history,  but  we  are  informed  that  it  was  noted  for  its  men 
of  learning,  and  that  it  was  the  "  Alexandria  of  Decapolis." 

At  Philadelphia  the  ruins  are  by  no  means  so  extensive  or  so  pict- 
uresque, though  very  important  and  interesting.  The  city  lies  in  a 
valley,  and  even  in  old  times  was  famed  for  its  water-supply.  It  is 
about  twenty-two  miles  from  the  Jordan.  Even  some  of  the  ancient 
private  houses  remain  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  for  time  has  been 
gentle,  and  there  has  been  no  one  to  destroy  them  mischievously. 
Like  one  of  those  in  Gerasa,  the  theatre  is  very  large,  and  is  set  in  a 
depression  in  the  side  of  a  hill. 

The  houses  of  the  ancient  Jews  living  in  opulence  were  constructed 
much  as  we  see  them  to-day  among  the  ruins  of  Gerasa  and  Philadel- 
phia. As  a  rule,  the  wealth  was  not  exi3ended  upon  the  exterior ;  the 
interior  took  it  all.  The  walls  were  plain,  the  roofs  were  flat ;  fre- 
quently balconies  were  attached.  The  doorway  was  sometimes  orna- 
mented. Passing  this,  the  court  was  entered.  From  this  court  all  the 
various  apartments  of  the  house  were  reached,  the  upper  ones  by 
means  of  stairways.  In  the  central  yard  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers 
grew ;  fountains  sent  up  their  cooling  influence  and  broke  the  sun's 
intruding  rays  into  fragments  of  rainbows ;  the  walls,  the  floors,  the 
stairways,  and  the  seats  were  of  marble  or  of  some  other  stone.  Each 
apartment  was  raised  a  little  from  the  court  and  was  reached  by  steps. 
When  the  women  of  the  household  came  clattering  through  the  court 
in  their  wooden  "  pattens,"  or  shoes,  to  visit  the  various  apartments, 
their  curious  foot-gear  was  always  left  outside  befo;:e  entering.  The 
house  was  made  bright  by  a  multitude  of  lamps.  When  the  stranger 
came,  the  table  was  laden  not  only  with  a  wealth  of  service,  but  with 
all  that  could  tempt  the  appetite  or  please  the  taste.  After  the  feast, 
the  timbrel,  the  pipe,  and  the  harp  were  brought  in,  and  all  the  mem- 
bers of  the  household,  including  the  servants,  joined  in  the  dance. 
Those  who  chose  not  to  take  part  in  the  rustic  exercises  sat  upon  the 
roof  or  balconies,  and  discussed  the  topics  of  the  day  while  they 
watched  the  merry-making  below. 

In  all  the  pleasures  of  the  household  the  children  were  allowed  to 
take  a  moderate  share.  Moreover,  when  the  noted  guest  came,  he  was 
expected  to  express  his  best  wishes  for  the  little  ones,  and  impart  his 


IN  THE  SOUTH  COUNTRY. 


177 


blessing  to  them.  At  an  early  age  the  child  was  taken  to  the  syna- 
g-ogue,  that  he  might  have  the  prayers  and  blessings  of  the  elders. 
More  than  usual  attention  was  given  to  this  duty  during  the  times  of 
discussion  over  the  coming  of  the  Messiah ;  for  sectarianism  grew 
apace,  and  the  populace  be- 
came divided  into  religious  p"^- ;>  JiJ^  .-yrrr'-'-^^r-'ac.^^^.  ^^"^ 
loarties.  The  state  of  society 
in  Decapolis  when  its  cities 
were  visited  by  Jesus  was 
anything  but  peaceful.  The 
first  care  of  their  ruler  seem- 
ed to  be  to  turn  the  streams 
of  wealth  into  his  own  cof- 
fers;  next  into  those  of 
Kome,  through  the  appoint- 
ed Zaccheus  of  each  city  and 
town. 

A  camel-back  journey  of 
a  day,  if  the  camel  be  fleet 
and  his  rider  light  and  merciful,  will 
take  the  traveller  from  Philadelphia, 
easternmost  city  of  Perea,  to  Jericho,  the 
easternmost   city   of  Judea.     The   ford   of 
the  Jordan  is  near  the  "x)ilgrims'  bathing 
place."     After  the  upper  Zerka,  or  Jabbok, 

is  crossed,  in  close  succession  one  passes  the  spot  where  John  must 
have  ended  his  mission  and  entered  the  shadows  of  the  mountains 
of  Machserus,  where  he  was.  beheaded.  Then  Mount  Nebo  is  ap- 
proached, where  Moses  died,  and  close  to  Attaroth  the  headless  corpse 
of  the  Baptist  must  have  been  laid.  As  one  descends  toward  the 
ford,  the  sloping  plains  of  Jericho  are  approached,  rising  gently  from 
the  Dead  Sea.  The  mountains  of  Moab  draw  nearer,  and  the  Dead 
Sea  becomes  plainly  visible  from  end  to  end.  Sometimes  the  scene 
presented  is  desolate  and  dreary  in  the  extreme.  Here  the  white  rocks 
force  themselves  through  the  parched  earth ;  here  are  shifting  sands, 
cracked  and  fissured  soil,  and  deep,  dry  channels,  cut  by  the  torrents 
w^hich  in  the  rainy  season  come  down  from  the  mountains. 

At  the  ford  of  the  Jordan  many  generations  have  trodden  down  the 
12 


The  Jordan — The   Pilgrims'    Bathing- 
place. 


178 


IW  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


earth  or  pushed  their  way  eagerly  throug-h  the  marshes  and  the  jungle. 
The  luxuriant  growth  and  variety  of  trees  and  shrubs  remind  one  of  a 

carefully  made  collection 
at  some  exhibition.  The 
willows  dip  their  yielding 
branches  into  the  hurrying 
stream  ;  the  tamarisks  flut- 
ter in  the  soft  breeze  ;  the 
oleanders  stand  up  stiffly 
lest  their  waxen  leaves  and 
rose-tinted  flowers  become 
contaminated  by  the  mud- 
dy water ;  and  the  wonder- 
ful blossoms  and  berries  of 
many  trees  whose  names  I 
cannot  tell,  help  to  make 
up  a  picture  of  great 
beauty.  Here  came  the 
swarming  millions  of  Is- 
rael ;  near  here  the  river 
was  opened  for  Elijah  and 
Elisha ;  here  Naaman  bathed.  After  Absalom  died  and  David  returned 
to  his  throne,  near  here  "  there  went  over  a  ferry-boat  to  carry  over  the 
king's  household"  (2  Sam.  xix.  18).  A  ride  of  six  miles  through  a 
jungle  of  reeds,  thistles,  and  other  plants  of  rank  growth  brings  the 
traveller  to  the  most  squalid  town  in  all  Palestine — the  Jericho  of  to- 
day. There  were,  in  former  times,  three  Jerichos.  The  Jericho  of 
Joshua,  it  is  believed,  was  situated  near  the  lovely  Fountain  of  Elisha — 
called  "  Ain  es-Sultan  "  by  the  Arabs — the  place  where  Elisha  healed 
the  waters  with  salt.  This  was  the  Jericho  of  the  Jews,  whose  history 
is  so  full  of  romance.  The  Jericho  of  the  Bomans — that  is,  of  Herod's 
or  of  Christ's  day — was  more  than  a  mile  away,  as  the  old  aqueduct  be- 
yond Ain  es-Sultan  and  the  Eoman  ruins  thereabouts  indicate.  The 
ruins  of  the  Jericho  of  the  time  of  the  crusades  probably  lie  beneath 
the  modem  village,  only  a  short  distance  from  the  Fountain  of  Elisha. 
Making  a  composite  of  them,  we  may  say  that  Jericho  was  situated  on 
a  plain  nearly  three  thousand  five  hundred  feet  below  Jerusalem. 
Even  in  the  days  of  Christ,  it  was  surrounded  by  towers  and  castles. 


Fountain  of  Elisha. 


Z/Y  THE  SOUTH  COUNTRY. 


1T9 


If  you  could  stand  upon  the  roof  of  one  of  those  strong"  structures,  to- 
ward the  Jordan  shore,  the  semi-circular  plain  would  rise  up  like  an 
amphitheatre.  Its  swelling  slopes,  lifted  one  above  the  other  to  the 
height  of  seven  hundred  feet  and  running  back  nearly  three  miles, 
would  well  resemble  the  tiers  of  seats,  the  width  stretching  over  eight 
miles  from  north  to  south,  in  good  proportion,  while  a  strip  of  dividing: 
wilderness,  clothed  with  the  richest  decorations  nature  could  supply, 
would  serve  for  the  main  aisle.  Perhaps  there  is  no  more  torrid  place 
in  all  Palestine  than  this  sunken  hollow  wherein  the  fated  city  once 
flourished.  It  is  magnificently  fertile.  There  is  scarce  a  rod  unoccu- 
pied by  some  luxuriant  growth.  It  must  have  been  a  lovely  spot  when 
Cleopatra  persuaded  the  infatuated  Antony  to  make  it  her  private  pos- 
session. It  was  then  known 
as  "  the  city  of  palm-trees." 
The  balm,  which  so  de- 
lighted even  that  fastidi- 
ous queen,  was  cultivated 
here,  together  with  henna, 
camphor,  and  other  rare 
commodities.  The  only 
structures  now  standing 
here  are  a  khan,  in  charge 
of  Russian  monks,  and  the 
"  house  of  Zaccheus,"  a  low, 
tower-like  building,  doubt- 
less a  relic  of  the  crusades. 
Sixty  families,  living  in  ex- 
treme degradation,  make 
up  the  x^opulation. 

Jericho  is  about  thir- 
teen and  a  half  miles  north- 
northeast  of  Jerusalem,  just 
opposite  the  opening  of  the 
valley  of  Achor,  in  which 
Achan,  "the  troubler  of 

Israel,"  was  stoned,  and  through  which  runs  what  is  supposed  by 
some  to  be  the  brook  Cherith,  where  Elijah  was  fed  by  the  ravens. 
A  fine  stone  bridge,  thirty-five  feet  high,  with  pointed  arches,  crosses 


Aqueduct  Near  Jericho. 


180 


/iV^  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 


the  Cherith  here.  Standing-  upon  it,  one  can  see  several  ruined  aque- 
ducts, shoTvdng"  how  much  attention  must  have  been  given  to  the  ir- 
rig"ation  of  the  entire  plain.  Some  of  these  aqueducts  have  two  tiers 
of  ai'ches,  and  are  handsome  even  in  their  ruin.'  Surely  the  skilful 
engineering"  of  the  Koman  Campagna  was  followed  in  their  construc- 
tion. Some  of  them  run  into  and  through  the  hills.  Here  and 
there  a  great  reservoir  or  cistern  has  been  sunk.  Even  Damascus, 
"  the  earthly  Paradise,"  could  not  have  presented  a  more  garden-like 


Modern  Jericho. 


luxuriance  than  did  the  plains  of  Jericho  when  Jesus  came  here  and 
halted  to  heal  the  blindness  of  poor  Bartimeus.  Now  its  glory  is  all 
gone,  but  the  blind  are  not  all  gone.  It  seems  true  that  one  in  ten  of 
the  native  people  met  in  tte  way  are  either  blind  or  have  diseased 
eyes.  They  still  sit  by  the  wayside,  usually  in  couples,  appealing  to 
the  charity  of  the  stranger. 

The  climb  from  Jericho  to  Jerusalem  is  one  of  the  most  exasperat- 
ing in  Judea.  There  are  a  number  of  routes,  but  if  any  one  is  chosen, 
sorrow  is  sure  to  follow  the  jireference.  The  journey  is  not  a  long  one, 
and  soon  after  leaving  the  sunken  plain  of  Jericho,  the  air  becomes 
more  vital.    The  rolling  hills  are  dotted  with  olive-trees,  and  green 


/iV^  THE  SOUTH  COUNTRY.  ISl 

fields  lined  with  stone  walls  appear,  between  which  the  tortuous  bridle- 
path ascends.  One  favorite  route  is  by  the  brook  Cherith,  which 
hurries  Jordanward  through  a  deep  slit  in  the  earth,  cut  by  some 
unusually  awful  blow  of  Nature.  After  climbing-,  say  five  hundred  feet, 
by  turning  one  may  gain  an  appreciation  of  the  true  depression  of  the 
site  of  Jericho  and  of  the  Dead  Sea.  Now  the  path  runs  up  rocky 
defiles,  amid  chalk  hills,  through  stony  valleys,  and  over  blighted  soil ; 
up,  up,  in  the  sun,  until  the  tops  of  two  giddy  fragments  of  masonry 
are  seen.  These  are  in  Bethany,  and  form  part  of  what  is  called 
"  the  house  of  Martha  and  Mary."  And  we  shall  know  the  rest  of  the 
way,  when  we  follow  along  history  a  little  further,  and  read  of  the  tri- 
umphal entry  of  our  Saviour  into  Jerusalem. 


CHAPTEK  VIII. 

ROUND   ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 

The  Triumphal  Entry  of  Jesus  Christ. — The  Route  from  Bethany  to  the  Holy  City. — An- 
cient Landmarks. — View  from  the  Bethany  Road  Southeast. — Mount  Zion. — The 
King's  Dale. — Siloam. — The  Tomb  of  Absalom. — In  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat. — 
The  Kidron  Valley. — Views  from  the  Top  of  the  Golden  Gate. — The  Mount  of 
Olives. — The  Temple  Site. — The  "  Court  of  Omar." — Mount  Moriah. — The  Temple 
Area.— The  Citadel. — Views  from  the  Citadel  Mosque. — From  Jerusalem  to  Geth- 
semane. — The  Turkish  Garrison. — The  Via  Dolorosa. — The  Muezzin  Call. — The 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. — Easter  "Services." — The  Four  Quarters  of  Jeru- 
salem.— The  Christian  Quarter  from  the  Pool  of  Hezekiah. — The  Jews'  Quarter. — 
The  Jews'  Wailing  Place. — Ancient  *'  Stones." — The  Tower  of  David,  and  the 
Tower  of  Jesus. — The  Tombs  of  the  Kings. — The  Stone  at  the  Door  of  the  Sepul- 
chre. 

TN  one  of  the  narrow  streets  of  Bethany  are  the  walls  of  an  old  stone 
building",  the  single  opening  of  which  is  closed  by  a  wooden  door 
l^ainted  green.  Every  visitor  is  halted  at  this  humble  portal,  and  it 
opens  in  answer  to  the  creak  of  a  long,  heavy,  rusty  key  manipulated 
by  both  hands  of  the  custodian.  It  is  called  the  house  where  Lazarus 
and  Martha  and  Mary  lived.  The  encircling  walls  seem  to  be  less  an- 
tique than  the  old  Eoman  arch  which  stands  within,  and  their  archi- 
tectural style  evidently  dates  from  periods  different  and  widely  sepa- 
rated. Upon  the  walls  are  trailing  vines  and  scattered  flowers.  The 
inclosure  is  only  about  twelve  feet  by  fourteen  feet  in  extent,  and  has 
no  roof.  If  this  is  really  the  place  where  Jesus  was  wont  to  come  day 
by  day  after  his  w^ork  had  been  finished  in  the  city,  then  it  was  the 
scene  of  great  excitement  on  the  last  Saturday  he  spent  upon  the  earth. 
The  time  for  the  feast  of  the  Passover  was  at  hand.  Every  road  and 
byway  was  swarming  with  joeople  journeying  toward  Jenisalem.  The 
number  was  greater  than  usual  because  it  was  expected  that  Jesus 
would  attend  the  feast.  No  fear  of  death  debarred  the  faithful  son  of 
Israel  and  true  Messiah  from  undertaking  the  journey  with  the  rest ; 
so  the  start  was  made.  From  every  wall  of  the  roofless  apartment  the 
deep-cut,  narrow  road  up  which  he  climbed  may  be  seen  dividing  the 


i    'v-^  *  ,^ 


v|^: 


■^:i;?^j 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM.  185 

hill  which  protects  Bethany  on  the  west.  It  is  one  of  the  loveliest 
spots  in  all  Palestine.  Fresh  and  well-attended  is  everything-,  and  free 
from  the  pestering-  people  one  meets  in  so  many  localities.  The  olive- 
trees  are  healthier,  shapelier,  and  more  fruitful  than  those  near  Heb- 
ron ;  the  wheat-fields  appear  more  thrifty,  and  the  flowers  are  surely 
more  abundant.  It  seems  as  though  nothing  had  changed  since  Jesus 
went  by,  except  that  then,  perhaps,  a  villag-e  capped  the  now  bare  hill, 
as  was  the  case  with  almost  every  hill-top  in  Palestine  when  he  was  a 
dweller  there. 

His  associates  on  his  journey  came  from  the  masses — a  motley  as- 
semblage, part  of  whom  had  followed  him  from  Decapolis  and  Jericho, 
their  number  augmented  by  friends  and  followers  from  the  region 
round  about  Bethany.  Undoubtedly  the  Galilean  disciples,  who  had 
joined  him  during-  his  ministry  there,  led  the  enthusiastic  procession. 
When  the  brow  of  the  hill  was  reached  a  second  living-  stream  was  seen 
winding-  down  the  pathways  on  the  opposite  hill  and  along-  the  deep 
valley  intervening.  Palm  branches  were  uplifted  in  the  hands  of  some, 
and  others  broke  boughs  from  the  fig-  and  olive-trees  and  bore  them 
aloft.  Long-  before  the  two  assemblag-es  met,  the  crowds  from  Jerusa- 
lem began  to  carpet  the  roug-h  mountain  road  with  the  verdant  boughs, 
and  those  from  Bethany  divested  themselves  of  their  g-arments  and 
spread  them  in  the  way  before  their  divine  companion.  The  high, 
rocky  inclines  of  both  Olivet  and  Mount  Moriah  echoed  and  re-echoed 
the  loud  hosannas  which  went  forth  from  that  joint  multitude.  The 
distance  between  the  two  towns  is  barely  two  miles.  As  the  advance 
was  made,  one  section  turned  back  and  led  the  other.  Soon  a  slight 
descent  and  turn  in  the  road  was  reached.  As  though  crystallized  from 
the  clouds,  suddenly,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  the  city  of  Jerusalem 
appeared  in  its  entire  extent,  no  object  whatever  intervening  to  break 
the  glorious  view.  Mount  Moriah  stood  forth  with  the  Herodian  Tem- 
ple rising  far  above  the  supporting  and  protecting  walls ;  Mount  .Zion, 
covered  with  the  glory  and  glitter  of  its  magnificent  palaces,  appeared 
next ;  the  great  wall  girdling  all  with  its  solid  towers  and  outreaching 
gates,  which  appeared  like  strong  knots  to  strengthen  it — all  presented 
a  panorama  of  beauty  unsurpassed.  The  tree-clad  hills  and  the 
surrounding  fertile  valleys  combined  to  make  a  glorious  setting  and 
brought  out  the  grandeur  of  the  rich  city.  Even  now  this  view  is  most 
imposing.     This  preliminary  glimpse  is  soon  hidden  by  the  shoulder 


186  '  IW  SCBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

of  Olivet.  The  terraced  sides  of  the  sacred  mountain  then,  as  now, 
were  dotted  by  vineyards  with  hedges  set  about  them,  with  places  dug 
for  the  wine-vats,  and  with  towers  built  for  the  watchmen  of  the  vine- 
yards. 

As  the  enthusiastic  multitude  moved  on,  the  crowds  of  persons  who 
had  been  pouring  out  from  the  Holy  City  ever  since  the  gates  were 
opened,  fell  in  and  swelled  the  procession.  These  people  were  of  every 
kind  and  condition — old  and  young,  rich  and  poor,  women  and  their 
little  ones.  Some  came  to  welcome  a  friend  who  had  been  kind  to 
them,  or  whose  friends  had  shared  his  healing  power,  and  some  came 
to  honor  the  king  who  was  to  redeem  them  from  the  cruel  grasp  of  the 
foreign  invader.  There  were  some  who  served  as  spies,  and  only 
joined  in  the  loud  talk  and  violent  gesticulations  in  order  to  bring  out 
the  real  feelings  of  the  earnest  followers  of  Jesus.  Hope  and  Passion 
trudged  along  side  by  side ;  Desire  and  Fear  followed  them.  Every 
looker-on,  infected  by  the  contagion,  joined  the  living  mass  and  in- 
creased the  exulting  shout  which  came  up  from  the  rear.  The  everlast^ 
ing  hills  caught  the  anthems  of  praise  and  sent  the  sound  rolling  up 
the  valley,  until  those  who  thronged  the  walls  and  towers  of  Jerusalem 
caught  the  news  that  Jesus  was  indeed  coming  to  the  feast,  and  was 
even  then  close  at  hand.  At  last  the  little  bridge  which  crosses  the 
Kidron  Yalley  was  reached,  and  the  narrowing  procession  crossed  over 
to  the  Golden  Gate  of  Jerusalem.  The  expressions  of  fealty  and  devo- 
tion then  increased,  and  the  waiting  multitude  prostrated  themselves 
upon  the  ground  in  testimony  of  their  reverence  and  gratitude.  It  was 
the  desire  of  everyone  to  greet  Jesus,  and  it  was  a  marvel  to  see  the 
apprehensiveness  lest  he  should  not  come  change  place  with  the  de- 
light which  attended  his  actual  presence.  Such  complete  possession 
did  the  thoughts,  hopes,  and  fears  concerning  this  mysterious  man  take 
of  the  people,  that  even  the  preparation  for  the  great  impending  feast 
was  forgotten.  The  excited  populace  was  uncertain  how  or  what  to 
think  of  him,  much  less  what  to  expect.  Some  were  violent,  and  de- 
clared that  any  such  disturber  of  the  peace  was  liable  to  bring  down 
the  maledictions  of  Rome,  and  thereby  destroy  even  what  little  pros- 
perity there  was  among  the  Jews.  Others,  who  had  been  wearied  and 
harassed  almost  to  insanity  by  the  tumults  and  indecision  of  years, 
stood  with  open  arms,  ready  and  glad  to  welcome  any  instructor  who 
could  wrestle  with  the  reigning  sect  and  restore  the  law  of  Moses  to  its 


BOUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM.  187 

wonted  place.  For  one  faction  had  so  perverted  the  religion  of  their 
fathers  as  to  drive  from  it  all  the  spirit  and  all  the  hope  for  a  happy 
future  state ;  while  another,  even  more  offensive,  by  their  dead  forms 
and  dreadful  practices  of  vice  and  lust  so  poisoned  the  ancient  faith  as 
to  sicken  every  sincere  heart.  As  Jesus  proceeded  to  the  Temple  his 
enemies  were  preaching  there,  trying  by  every  form  of  statement  and 
^argument  to  turn  away  the  minds  of  the  people  from  him.  He  was 
branded  as  a  disturber  of  the  peace  of  the  city  and  of  the  nation. 
Oftentimes  these  services  were  broken  up  in  confusion.  Then  Jesus 
himself  took  the  place  of  the  exhorters  and  overwhelmed  the  excited 
assemblages  by  the  recital  of  his  parables,  by  his  questionings,  by  his 
utterances  of  the  great  commandments,  by  his  gentle  admonitions,  by 
his  terrible  denunciations,  and  calm  predictions.  And  thus  the  public 
pulse  went  up  and  down  under  the  governing  sway  of  hope  and  passion, 
until  that  last  night,  when,  while  friends  were  away,  the  populace  at 
rest,  and  suspicion  asleep,  Jesus  was  seized,  tried,  and  condemned,  and 
before  the  news  could  be  spread  was  hurried  outside  the  walls  and  cru- 
cified. 

The  topography  of  Jerusalem  is  an  interesting  study.  "  What  were 
the  true  limits  of  ancient  Jerusalem  ?  "  is  a  query  that  has  not  yet  been 
answered  as  fully  and  satisfactorily  as  has  "  Where  was  the  place  called 
Calvary  %  "  For  our  present  purpose  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  go 
into  the  depths  of  the  discussion,  because  the  points  which  now  inter- 
est us  all  lie  on  the  east  side  of  the  city.  Concerning  two  points  there 
need  be  no  dispute — in  fact,  there  is  none.  I  refer  to  the  locality  of 
the  two  great  valleys  of  Hinnom  and  Kidron.  Had  their  rise  at  the 
north  and  west  been  a  little  closer  to  each  other,  and  their  wide,  deep 
courses  been  filled  with  water,  they  would  have  made  Jerusalem  an 
island.  As  it  is,  it  appears  between  them  like  a  noble,  mountainous 
promontory.  ApiDroach  it  as  you  will,  it  rises  sublimely  above  its  en- 
vironments, with  its  embattled  towers,  its  always  picturesque  minarets, 
and  its  shapely  domes  standing  out  against  the  azure  background  of 
the  sky.  No  clear-headed  general  of  the  time  when  balistse,  battering- 
rams,  and  catapults  were  used  in  besieging  a  city,  could  have  coveted  a 
more  advantageous  site  than  this.  There  seems  to  be  nothing  about 
Jerusalem  to  welcome  the  stranger.  On  the  contrary,  its  high  walls 
and  its  guarded  gates  seem  to  say,  "  Halt !  you  are  not  welcome  here." 
And  yet  its  history  draws  us  on,  and  this  same  wall  of  two  and  a  half 


188  J2\r  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

miles  in  circumference — a  mere  apolog-y  for  a  wall  compared  with  its 
predecessor,  and  only  about  half  its  g-irth — attracts  our  attention  at 
once.  The  materials  of  which  it  is  constructed  represent  every  ag-e  of 
the  city  from  the  time  when  "  Solomon  in  all  his  glory  "  contracted  for 
the  Temple  building"  to  the  day  when  Baldwin  and  Eichard  Coeur  de 
Lion  constructed  the  splendid  Muristan.  These  quarried  fragments 
of  the  ag-es,  some  bevelled,  some  of  porphyry  from  Arabia,  some  of  the 
granite  of  Sinai,  are  placed  wdth  as  little  idea  of  unity  and  conformity 
as  are  the  postage  stamps  in  a  young-  collector's  album.  Here  and 
there  a  broad  arch,  closed  up,  is  seen,  with  quantities  of  indentations 
and  projections,  with  prominent  angles,  square  towers,  loopholes,  and 
threatening  battlements.  As  in  Christ's  day,  so  now,  a  broad  pathway, 
protected  by  a  breastwork,  runs  around  the  to]3  of  the  wall  and  often 
serves  as  the  fashionable,  and  indeed  only,  promenade  of  the  curious 
old  city.  From  the  eastern  wall,  near  the  Golden  Gate,  close  to  the 
top,  a  fragment  of  a  round  j)orphyry  column  projects  several  feet. 
The  makers  of  Moslem  legends  have  fixed  this  for  the  accommodation 
of  their  prophet  Mohammed,  who  is  to  sit  astride  it  and  judge  the 
world  when  the  people  assemble  in  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat  at  the 
last  day. 

The  g-eneral  conformation  of  the  walls  is  that  of  a  quadrangle.  The 
Mosque  of  Omar  and  the  adjacent  gn^ounds  occupy  the  southeast  angle. 
A  fair  map  of  this  most  interesting*  of  all  the  comers  (southeast)  of 
Jerusalem,  as  it  appears  to-day,  is  found  in  the  engraving-  on  pag-e  189. 
This  is  the  summit  of  Mount  Moriah.  This  one  view  includes  more 
points  of  interest,  from  right  to  left,  than  any  other  in  Jerusalem,  and 
takes  in  more  than  one-eighth  of  the  modem  city.  Outside  of  the  plat- 
form the  area  is  covered  with  a  grassy  lawn,  and  here  and  there  olive, 
cypress,  and  other  trees  vary  the  scene.  The  southwest  comer  em- 
l)races  all  that  part  of  Mount  Zion  which  is  inclosed  by  the  modern 
wall,  and  is  occupied  largely  by  the  Armenian  convent  with  the  acces- 
sory buildings.  Another  immense  establishment  is  situated  in  the 
northwest  quarter  of  the  city,  and  belongs  to  the  Latin  convent.  The 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  lies  between  the  two,  and  serves  as  the 
general  fighting-ground  of  the  two  creeds,  the  battles  going  on  under 
the  surveillance  of  a  Turkish  guard  and  American  rifles. 

Tlio  quarter  of  Jerusalem  to  which  the  exasperated  visitor  may 
retire  when  sickened  by  the  turbulence  and  uncleanness  of  the  others 


I 


ffliffiiijiiiiiBi!i:i;iiiiMiiAiii;iiiiiuiwiiiJMi:iiiiii.ii^^ 

Jerusalem  from  the  Bethany  Road  Southeast. 


190  Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

is  the  northeast.  It  is  not  largely  built  up,  like  the  others,  but  it  is 
beautified  by  gardens  and  olive-groves.  It  is  only  a  question  of  a  little 
time,  however,  before  these  vacant  spots  will  be  covered  with  buildings. 
Once  possession  of  the  land  is  had  by  Latin  or  Greek,  occupation  will 
rapidly  follow.  "Within  a  few  years  the  buildings  outside  the  walls 
have  so  increased  as  to  form  a  new  city  almost  as  large  as  the  ancient 
one  within.  Superb  churches  are  going  ujd  all  about  Jerusalem,  even 
on  the  stony  incline  of  the  Mount  of  Olives — many  more  churches  than 
the  whole  populace  can  fill ;  but  their  purpose  it  is  not  hard  to  conjec- 
ture. 

Tradition  says  that  the  route  from  Bethany,  on  the  occasion  of  the 
triumphal  entry,  followed  the  narrow  pathway  winding  along  the  side 
of  the  Mount  t>f  Olives  from  southeast  to  northwest,  back  of  the  village 
of  Siloam,  until  the  neighborhood  of  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  was 
reached,  then  westward  across  the  valley  of  the  Kidron  to  the  city  gate. 
It  is  not  purposed  to  dispute  tradition  now,  or  even  to  disturb  anyone's 
peace  by  arguing  the  case ;  but  for  the  better  understanding  of  all  or 
any  of  the  routes  from  Bethany  to  Jerusalem,  our  present  journey  will 
lead  us  down  the  hills  west  of  the  common  road  of  to-day  into  the  val- 
ley of  the  Kidron,  where  it  is  joined  by  the  vale  of  Hinnom.  Thus  we 
come  at  once  upon  the  most  sublime  and  impressive  view  round  about 
Jeinisalem,  or  indeed  in  all  Palestine.  This  natural  depression  is 
known  as  the  "  King's  Dale."  Through  it  the  brook  Kidron  flowed 
once  upon  a  time.  No  water  follows  the  course  now,  except  in  the 
rainy  season  of  the  winter-time,  when  the  torrents  from  the  adjacent 
hills  unite  here  and  follow  down  to  the  Dead  Sea.  The  terraces  of  the 
eastern  shoulder  of  Mount  Zion  are  detailed  here  on  the  left;  over 
the  city  wall  the  dome  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  situated  on  Mount 
Moriah,  is  visible.  Stone  stairways  are  there  leading  uj)  to  Jerusalem. 
"  The  Hill  of  Evil  Counsel "  is  on  the  extreme  left,  and  the  narrow, 
stony  road  leading  to  Siloam  beyond,  located  on  the  southwestern  in- 
cline of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  is  plainly  observable. 

Although  the  inhabitants  of  Siloam  are  as  unfriendly  a  band  of  rob- 
bers as  there  is  in  the  Orient,  they  are  good  husbandmen  and  have 
made  the  neighboring  vale  a  little  paradise.  The  stones  have  been  in- 
dustriously removed,  and  the  soil  has  been  rendered  most  productive. 
The  waters  of  the  Pool  of  Siloam  (located  on  the  left)  are  used  for  irri- 
gating this  garden  spot.     Plantations  of  fig-  and  olive-trees  are  here ; 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 


191 


vineyards  and  fields  of  waving  grain  make  a  fine  color  contrast ;  and 
the  plats  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  vegetables  for  the  Jerusalem 
market  would  excite  the  envy  of  the  ingenious  farmers  of  our  own  New 


e.  toSvljof /Absalom. 


Jersey,  Florida,  and  California. 
No  fence  of  stone  or  of  wood 
breaks  the  expanse.  The  i)eo- 
ple  are  a  community  and  do  not 
quarrel  with  each  other,  though 
they  scowl   at  the  approach  of 

the  stranger.  A  person  can  stand  on  the  pathway  in  the  foreground  of 
our  camera-map  and  see,  besides  the  sites  named,  the  "  Potter's  Field," 
"  Joab's  Well,"  or  En-Eogel,  the  Frank  Mountain,  the  Pool  of  Gihon, 
the  whole  length  of  the  Yale  of  Hinnom  on  the  left,  and  the  entire  east- 
em  and  southern  walls  of  Jerusalem. 

Following  the  Siloam  road,  after  the  gardens  are  left  behind,  the 


192  IJH  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

valley  is  found  to  be  systematically  and  extensively  terraced,  in  order 
that  every  foot  of  the  precious  soil  may  be  utilized.  After  the  village 
of  Siloam  is  passed,  the  valley  narrows  until  it  amounts  to  little  more 
than  a  ravine.  A  grand  loerspective  view  of  the  eastern  wall  of  Jerusa- 
lem is  obtained  from  this  point.  The  entire  surface  of  this  portion  of 
Olivet  seems  to  be  crowded  with  the  white  stone  memorials  of  the 
dead.  On  right  and  left  every  rock  seems  to  have  been  excavated, 
every  cave  "  improved,"  for  sepulchral  use.  This  is  largely  the  case  all 
around  Jerusalem.  Certainly  it  is  true  all  the  way  from  Mount  Moriah 
to  St.  Stephen's  Gate,  and  from  Siloam  to  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane. 
The  humbler  Jewish  tombs  are  marked  by  a  slab  of  rough  limestone 
without  emblem  or  symbol,  though  many  of  them  bear  Hebrew  inscrip- 
tions. The  Mohammedan  gravestone  is  usually  upright,  set  in  a  base, 
and  the  grave  is  often  inclosed  on  each  side  and  at  the  top  by  slabs. 
There  is  frequently  a  footstone  as  well  as  a  headstone.  The  study  of 
the  excavated  tombs  is  very  interesting.  There  is  almost  every  variety 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Jerusalem.  Some  of  them  contain  only  loculi, 
or  troughs,  cut  laterally  in  the  rock,  with  an  arch  or  canopy  above ;  and 
in  these  troughs  the  bodies  were  laid.  A  second  class  consists  of  a 
central  chamber  from  which  rows  of  koka,  or  rectangular,  sloping 
spaces,  run  inward,  like  tunnels,  sufficiently  high  and  wide  to  permit 
the  admission  of  a  corpse.  Other  tombs  have  both  loculi  and  koka, 
together  with  numerous  stone  benches  around  the  sides  of  the  chamber, 
upon  which  sarcophagi  were  arranged.  The  entrance  to  such  a  tomb 
as  this  is  shown  on  page  221.  In  some  cases  there  is  only  one  chamber, 
while  in  others  there  are  a  dozen  or  more,  opening  into  one  another. 
Occasionally  there  are  two  or  more  stories  in  one  excavation.  Masonry 
tombs  are  very  rare.  Stairways  lead  to  some  of  these  chambers  of  the 
dead  which  are  found  along  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and  the  facades 
of  some  of  the  noted  ones  have  been  carved  and  cut  in  pretentious 
styles.  Others  are  isolated — cut  from  the  solid  rock — and  stand  out 
prominent  features  in  the  gloomy  prospect.  Most  prominent  among 
the  last  named  are  the  alleged  sepulchres  of  Zechariah,  St.  James,  Ab- 
salom, and  Jehoshaphat.  That  of  Absalom  is  the  most  elaborate  of 
all.  It  is  doubtful  whether  Absalom's  remains  ever  rested  anywhere 
near  it,  but  it  always  forms  a  picturesque  feature  in  the  landscape, 
standing  as  it  does  upon  a  well-chosen  site.  It  is  quite  fifty  feet  high 
and  twenty-two  feet  square  at  the  base.    All  these  surrounding  sepul- 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM.  19^ 

chres  are  in  harmony  with  the  deadness  which  pervades  the  Holy  City. 
With  reference  to  the  tomb  of  Absalom  and  its  pretentious  neighbors, 
Dr.  Edward  Eobinson  says,  "  It  is  unnecessary  to  waste  words  to  show 
that  they  never  had  anything  to  do  with  the  persons  whose  names  they 
bear."     He  says  further : 

"  The  intermingling  of  the  Greek  orders,  and  a  spice  of  the  massive 
Egyptian  taste,  which  are  visible  in  these  monuments,  serve  also  to 
show  that  they  belong  to  a  late  period  of  the  Greek  and  Roman  art, 
and  especially  to  that  style  of  mingled  Greek  and  Egyptian  which  pre- 
vails in  the  Oriental  provinces  of  the  Roman  Empire.  The  chief  seat 
of  this  style  was  perhaps  at  Petra,  where  it  still  appears  in  much  of  its 
pristine  character  in  the  very  remarkable  excavations  of  Wady  Musa. 
When  we  visited  that  place,  some  weeks  afterward,  we  were  much  struck 
at  finding  there  several  isolated  monuments,  the  coimterparts  of  the 
monolithic  tombs  in  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat.  The  architectural  re- 
mains of  Petra  are  not  held,  I  believe,  to  be  in  general  older  than  the 
Christian  era ;  nor  is  there  any  reason  to  suppose  that  the  Jewish  mon- 
uments in  question  are  of  an  earlier  date.  Indeed,  if  they  existed  prior 
to  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem,  they  are  probably  to  be  referred  to  the 
times  of  the  Herods,  who  themselves  were  of  Idumsean  descent,  and 
maintained  an  intercourse  between  Petra  and  Jerusalem.  In  that  age 
too,  as  we  know,  other  foreigners  of  rank  repaired  to  Jerusalem  and 
erected  for  themselves  mansions  and  sepulchres.  It  would  not,  there- 
fore, be  difficult  to  account  in  this  way  for  the  resemblance  between 
these  monuments  and  those  of  Petra. 

"  Or,  if  the  entire  silence  of  Josephus  and  other  contemporary  wi*it- 
ers  as  to  these  tombs  be  regarded  as  an  objection  to  this  hjrpothesis, 
why  may  they  not  perhaps  be  referred  to  the  tombs  of  Adrian  ?  This 
emperor  appears  to  have  been  a  patron  of  Petra;  he  also  built  ui3  Jeru- 
salem ;  and  both  these  cities  were  called  after  his  name.  It  would 
therefore  not  be  unnatural  that  this  i)eriod  should  be  marked  in  both 
places  by  monuments  possessing  a  similar  architectural  character." 

The  ^dew  from  the  east  side  of  Absalom's  Tomb  northward  is  an  in- 
teresting one.  It  includes  the  northern  section  of  the  Kidron  with  the 
hill  of  Scopus  on  the  far  distant  right.  A  portion  of  the  wall  surround- 
ing the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  is  also  seen  at  the  right,  with  the  whole 
roadway  reaching  therefrom  across  the  valley  up  to  St.  Stephen's  Gate. 

Again,  we  see  the  entire  eastern  wall  of  Jerusalem  detailed  on  the  left, 
13 


194 


IJSr  SGBIPTURE  LANDS. 


with  the  Golden  Gate  rising  prominently  just  beyond  the  sky-line  of 
the  flower-like  apex  of  the  Tomb  of  Absalom.  In  the  immediate  fore- 
ground we  again  see  quantities  of  flat,  white,  time-worn  stones.  Every 
one  of  them  marks  the  last  resting-place  of  some  Hebrew  who  came  to 


The  Golden  Gate — Inside. 


Jerusalem  from  a  distant  land,  that  he  might  die  in  the  country  of  his 
forefathers  and  be  buried  beneath  the  soil  set  apart  for  them  by  the 
divine  fiat. 

Alas !  how  the  jioor  pilgrims  would  have  writhed  during  their  last 
years  if  they  had  known  that  the  jackals  might  be  toying  with  their 
poor  shrivelled  remains  before  the  rough  limestone  placed  over  them 
by  faithful  friends  had  settled  to  a  comfortable  level.  But  so  it  is 
frequently. 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM.  195 

Now,  if  the  valley  is  crossed  and  the  highest  point  of  the  Golden 
Gate  is  allowed  to  serve  as  his  Nebo,  the  explorer,  in  fact  or  in  imag- 
ination, may  see  almost  all  that  has  been  described  lying  outspread  at 
his  feet.  From  that  point,  too,  the  best  impression  may  be  had  of  the 
historical  valley  lying  between  the  sacred  mountains  which  have  held 
the  interest  of  the  world  for  thousands  of  years.  A  few  points  concern- 
ing this  valley  may  not  be  without  interest  to  the  student.  Help  may 
be  had  in  the  beginning  by  referring  to  the  excellent  map  in  the  fol- 
lowing chapter.  The  Yale  of  Kidron  is  the  best-known  name  of  this 
natural  depression,  yet  it  is  often  called  the  Yalley  of  Jehoshaphat 
(Jehovah  judgeth).  Jews,  Catholics,  and  Mohammedans  alike  believe 
that  the  last  judgment  will  take  place  here.  The  valley  rises,  in  fact, 
northwest  of  the  city,  a  few  minutes  walk  beyond  the  true  site  of  Cal- 
vary. It  varies  in  width  and  stretches  along  north  of  Jerusalem  east- 
ward until  a  turn  is  made  to  the  south,  not  far  from  St.  Stephen's  Gate. 
Here  the  depression  is  about  one  hundred  feet  deep,  and  a  bridge 
crosses  it  on  the  road  from  the  city  to  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane. 
The  entire  roadway  between  the  two  places  may  be  seen  in  the  view  on 
page  199.  The  valley  at  this  point  is  nearly  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
wide.  After  the  bridge  is  passed,  the  way  narrows  somewhat  and  de- 
scends. Then  its  conformation  changes  continually,  until  sometimes, 
as  we  have  already  seen,  it  becomes  very  narrow  and  winding  in  its 
course.  Another  bridge  is  located  near  the  Tomb  of  Absalom,  crossing 
to  a  point  not  far  from  the  Golden  Gate.  As  one  descends,  the  points 
of  interest  on  each  side  succeed  one  another  so  rapidly  as  to  command 
constant  attention.  The  enthusiasm  increases  as  the  exploration  pro- 
gresses. Once  the  topography  of  things  is  fixed  in  the  mind,  it  is  not 
readily  forgotten.  The  engraved  details  which  follow  will  serve  to 
make  it  all  quite  familiar  to  those  who  are  not  privileged  to  go  farther 
than  our  imaginary  Nebo.  After  passing  the  gardens  of  Siloam  the 
valley  widens,  and  then  continues  its  course,  south  and  east,  until  the 
Dead  Sea  is  reached. 

One  more  outward  view  of  the  east  side  of  the  valley  from  the 
Golden  Gate  will  complete  the  series  necessary  for  the  localization  of 
the  points  involved  in  these  descriptions.  It  reaches  from  the  Garden 
of  Gethsemane,  on  the  right,  northward  to  a  point  beyond  St.  Steph- 
en's Gate,  and  includes  the  main  summit  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  with 
all  of  its  western  incline.     Three  paths  are  seen,  all  starting  at  the 


196  IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

garden,  and  all  leading  up  to  the  summit.  The  central  one  is  very 
narrow,  is  lined  with  stone  walls,  and  is  used  mainly  by  travellers  on 
foot.  The  one  on  the  left  is  the  chief  highway  to  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  is  in  some  parts  very  steep.  The  third,  on  the  south,  is  the 
longest  way  up.  The  road  to  Bethany  diverges  from  it.  Some  i3or- 
tions  of  the  side  of  the  mountain  are  dotted  with  olive-trees,  and  here 
and  there  grain-fields  are  found,  often  inclosed  by  stone  walls.  Almost 
everything  hereabouts  is  of  stone.  One  seldom  sees  enough  of  wood 
to  make  a  cupboard.  Not  only  are  there  three  pathways,  but  there  are 
in  fact  three  summits.  The  centre  height  holds  the  most  interest. 
Our  itinerary  will  lead  us  to  it  presently — page  210. 

The  consideration  of  the  Temple  should  interest  us  next.  Alas !  that 
only  the  area  which  it  occupied,  with  the  buildings  which  succeeded, 
are  there  for  us  to  consider.  All  these  may  be  seen  from  the  Golden - 
Gate.  The  camera  and  the  engraver  have  done  what  they  can  toward 
presenting  a  view  of  what  there  is.  The  space  included  is  known  to 
Christians  as  the  Haram,  or  temple  area.  It  is  called  the  "  Court  of 
Omar  "  by  the  Mohammedans,  because  of  the  splendid  mosque  which 
graces  it  near  the  centre.  Far  in  the  distance  is  the  dome  and  long- 
pointed  roof  of  another  mosque — the  Mosque  of  El  Aksa.  A  long  line 
of  cloisters  is  on  the  right.  Between  them  and  the  Mosque,  scattered 
here  and  there  about  the  area,  are  stone  platforms  and  minor  buildings. 
All  these  are  occupied  by  the  dervishes  as  prayer-places,  colleges,  and 
public  schools.  Our  photographic  map,  though  showing  only  tlie 
north  and  the  west  sides  of  the  mosque,  gives  the  relative  positions  of 
the  various  buildings  on  Mount  Moriah,  south.  The  Golden  Gate  is 
on  the  left,  and  the  shoulder  of  Olivet  is  seen  in  the  far  distance.  The 
portion  of  the  area  which  lies  in  the  immediate  foreground  separates 
the  Mosque  of  Omar  from  the  site  of  the  Tower  of  Antonia.  The 
whole  platform  is  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  east  to  west,  and  five  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  from  north  to  south,  and  is  paved  with  marble.  It 
is  supported  by  walls  on  every  side.  Its  crowning  beauty  is  the 
Mosque  of  Omar.  The  structure  undoubtedly  stands  upon  the  highest 
point  of  Mount  Moriah,  for  the  "  Holy  Bock,"  sixty-five  feet  long  and 
forty-five  feet  broad,  is  inside.  A  few  details  concerning  this  magnifi- 
cent structure  may  be  helpful.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  area  and 
upon  the  supposed  site  of  Solomon's  Temple.  It  was  three  years  in 
building,  and  its  cost  was  the  result  of  seven  years'  taxation  of  the 


Summit  of  Mount  Moriah — The  Temple  Area. 


198 


/2V  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


Zion's  Gate,  Jerusaler 


Egyptians.  Its  eig-lit  sides  are  sixty-seven  feet  long-.  The  magnificent 
dome  is  a  masterpiece  of  Byzantine  architecture,  and  was  originally 
covered  with  gold.  It  is  built  of  marble  and  alabaster,  decorated  richly 
with  terra-cotta  of  brilliant  colors.  Around  it 
are  three  wide  belts  of  color:  the  upper  one 
green  and  white ;  the  centre  blue,  made  of  quo- 
tations in  Arabic  from  the  Koran;  the  lower 
dark  green,  picked  out  with  white — all  glistening 
terra-cotta.  The  barrel  of  the  dome  is  striped 
alternately  with  green,  white,  and  blue,  dotted 
with  yellow.  As  the  mosque  is  some  twenty 
feet  higher  than  the  area  proper,  it  is  reached  on 
all  sides  by  marble  stairways,  some  of  which  we 
see  on  the  west  side,  headed  by  rows  of  lofty 
pointed  arches.  The  solemn,  quiet  interior  is 
like  a  place  of  enchantment,  so  richly  decorated 
is  it.  The  columns  are  green  and  yellow  porphyry,  and  the  capitals 
burnished  gold.  The  arches  are  black  and  white,  and  its  fifty-six  slen- 
der windows  are  decorated  with  stained  glass  of  great  splendor.  The 
octagonal  divisions  of  the  ceiling  are  green,  with  golden  centre,  and 
the  borders  thereof  are  gold  and  green  and  red.  The  arches  over  the 
golden  line  are  blue  and  gold.  On  all  sides  and  in  every  available  space 
there  is  a  glory  and  a  harmony  of  color  not  surpassed  in  the  East. 

In  the  extreme  distance  at  the  right  of  the  picture  on  the  preceding 
page  is  the  graceful  minaret  of  a  mosque.  It  is  situated  on  the  south- 
ern brow  of  Mount  Zion.  It  is  one  of  the  landmarks  of  Jerusalem. 
The  call  of  the  muezzin  sent  forth  from  it  goes  sounding  over  the  hills 
and  tombs  southward,  until,  when  the  atmosphere  is  clear,  it  can  be 
heard  at  Eachel's  sepulchre.  A  little  group  of  buildings  close  to  this 
old  minaret  is  erected  over  the  vault  said  to  contain  the  tomb  of  David. 
An  "  upper  room  "  over  the  tomb  of  the  renowned  psalmist  and  king  is 
called  the  "  Coenaculum,"  because,  tradition  holds,  the  Passover  Supper 
was  eaten  there  by  Jesus  with  his  disciples.  It  is  a  large  chamber, 
thirty  feet  wide  by  fifty  feet  long.  Although  one  must  follow  an 
Armenian  monk  some  distance,  and  climb  multitudinous  steps,  still, 
after  passing  the  door,  there  is  a  descent  of  several  steps  before  the 
well -paved  floor  is  reached.  The  apartment  is  so  clean  and  so  well 
lighted  that  one  doubts  its  Oriental  character  and  questions  its  an- 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 


199 


tiquity.  Yet  its  appearance  indicates  great  age,  and  its  massive  con- 
struction seems  to  guarantee  its  standing  firm  for  many  centuries  to 
come.  Underneath  the  first  window  on  the  right  is  a  small  niche 
where,  it  is  said,  Christ  sat  at  the  Passover  Feast.  The  steps  on  the 
right  lead  to  the  Tomb  of  David.  If  all  this  is  true,  then  this  enclosure 
witnessed  the  assemblage  of  the  apostles  on  the  day  of  Pentecost,  the 
miracle  of  the  cloven  tongues 
"  like  as  of  fire,"  the  w^ashing 
of  the  feet  of  his  disciples  by 
Jesus,  the  giving  of  the  sop 
to  Judas ;  and  it  is  the  place 
whence  the  sad  company  went 
down  across  the  Yale  of  Kid- 
ron  to  Gethsemane  on  the 
night  of  the  betrayal.  The 
path  which  leads  to  and  fro 
between  the  city  and  the  Gar- 
den of  Gethsemane  is  one  of 
the  most  authentic  localities 
about  Jerusalem,  and  cannot 
have  changed  materially  since 
the  first  Easter  mom.  Along 
its  way  the  brutal  band  went, 
led  by  the  betrayer,  startling 

the  quiet  of  the  night  with  the  clash  of  their  swords  and  the  clanking 
of  their  staves.  After  the  arrest  the  return  was  made  by  the  same 
pathway  to  the  palace  of  Caiaphas. 

But  a  short  walk  from  the  Tomb  of  David  and  the  Coenaculum,  and 
between  them  and  Zion's  Gate,  is  the  Church  of  St.  James,  with  a 
chapel  attached,  commemorating  the  martyrdom,  and  covering  the 
tomb  of  the  beloved  apostle.  A  lovely  garden,  the  pride  of  the  Ar- 
menian monks  who  have  it  in  charge,  surrounds  the  chapel.  It  is  one 
of  the  prettiest  spots  in  the  Holy  City.  About  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  from  the  iron  gate  of  the  garden,  which  opens  toward  Mount 
Zion,  the  reputed  house  of  Caiaphas  is  shown.  The  massive  masonry 
of  the  building  is  in  strange  contrast  to  the  irregular  and  gaudy  deco- 
rations. Scales  of  pearl  and  bits  of  porcelain  seem  to  have  been  cov- 
ered on  one  side  with  some  adhesive  material  and  then  thrown  at  ran- 


From  Gethsemane  to  Jerusalem. 


200  IN  SGBIPTURE  LANDS. 

dom  against  the  walls  by  hands  g'uided  more  by  a  taste  for  tinsel  than 
by  artistic  principles.  On  one  side  of  the  apartment  is  a  little  cell  in 
which  Christ  is  said  to  have  been  confined  during  the  last  night  of  his 
life.  In  a  niche  is  an  altar  with  a  statue  of  Christ  bound  to  "  the  stake 
of  flagellation."  The  pavement  is  covered  with  inscriptions.  .  Close  to 
the  altar  is  the  so-called  "  stone  which  closed  the  mouth  of  the  Lord's 
sepulchre,"  named  by  some  the  "  angel  stone,"  because  the  angel  who 
addressed  the  Marys  after  Christ  had  risen  sat  upon  it  during  their 
conversation.  The  palace  of  Herod  the  Great,  called  by  him  the  Castle 
or  Tower  of  Antonia,  in  order  to  flatter  Mark  Antony,  was  looked  upon 
as  the  pride  of  Jerusalem.  It  stood  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the 
Temple  area,  and  its  connecting  buildings  are  supposed  to  have  run 
along  the  whole  northern  limit  of  the  area.  Of  it  Josephus  has  written 
as  follows : 

"  The  kinds  of  stone  used  in  its  construction  were  countless.  What- 
ever was  rare  abounded  in  it.  The  roofs  astonished  everyone  by  the 
length  of  their  beams  and  the  beauty  of  their  adornment.  Vessels  of 
gold  and  silver,  rich  in  chasing,  shone  on  every  side.  The  great  dining- 
hall  had  been  constructed  to  supply  table-couches  for  three  hundred 
guests ;  others  opened  in  all  directions,  each  with  a  different  style  of 
pillar.  The  open  space  before  the  palace  was  laid  out  in  broad  walks, 
planted  with  long  avenues  of  different  trees,  and  bordered  by  broad, 
deep  canals  and  great  ponds  flowing  with  clear,  cool  water,  set  off  along 
the  banks  with  innumerable  works  of  art." 

A  sorry  substitute  for  so  much  splendor  now  occupies  the  site  in  the 
long  line  of  decayed  structures  used  by  the  Turkish  garrison  as  their 
headquarters  and  barracks.  By  the  courtesy  of  the  commandant  the 
\aew  on  the  opposite  page  was  photographed  from  his  quarters.  A 
mosque,  of  course,  is  included  in  the  group  of  government  buildings. 
Its  tall  minaret  rises  high  above  everything  else  in  the  neighborhood. 
Seen  through  one  of  the  shapely  Saracenic  arches  facing  the  northeast 
approach  to  the  mosque  platform,  in  combination  with  the  little  dome 
of  Solomon,  erected  to  mark  the  spot  where  the  kingly  architect  stood 
for  prayer  after  he  had  completed  the  Temple,  it  presents  a  picturesque 
combination.  But  it  is  in  fact  dilapidated  enough — belonging  to  a 
government  which  never  gives  any  attention  to  repairs.  Some  measure 
of  respect  is  felt  for  it,  nevertheless,  by  the  person  whose  backsheesh 
persuades  the  muezzin  crier  to  permit  him  to  enjoy  a  view  of  the  sur- 


y 


^atti^ 


North  End  of  the  Temple  Area — The  Citadel. 


202  IJV  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

rounding  country  from  the  gallery  of  the  shaky  structure.  On  a  clear 
day  this  view  is  absolutely  overpowering  and  indescribable.  It  makes 
one  feel  like  joining  the  earnest  Moslem  in  the  cry  to  everybody 
to  praise  God.  Of  course  there  is  the  dead  and  alive  city,  and  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  the  Temple  area,  with  all  their 
attractions,  but  they  are  eclipsed  by  the  natural  beauties  surrounding. 
From  Bethel  on  the  north  to  Bethlehem  on  the  south  the  undulations 
of  the  country  are  presented,  as  rough  and  as  rugged  as  the  pages  of 
history  represented  by  every  foot  of  the  prospect.  On  the  west  one 
can  see  almost  to  Joppa ;  while  on  the  east,  after  the  delighted  eyes 
dwell  upon  the  Mount  of  Olives  a  moment  and  then  sink  down  into  the 
Jordan  Yalley,  they  are  lifted  again  to  the  mountains  of  Moab,  and  are 
tempted  southward  once  more  by  the  glittering  surface  of  the  ever-fas- 
cinating sea  of  the  dead  and  its  gaudy  borders. 

What  changes  have  been  wrought  by  time  since  all  this  country  was^ 
full  of  life  and  energy  !  It  is  true  that  Jerusalem  still  lives  by  the  at- 
tractions of  her  great  building  and  its  accessories,  as  she  did  by  her 
Temple  when  Christ  Jesus  iDreached  here.  But  the  crafty  tetrarch,  the 
subtle  Sadducees,  and  the  "  please  everybody  "  king  are  gone.  In  their 
places  dervishes  strut  and  the  students  bow  in  groups  upon  the  pave- 
ment for  prayer  at  each  muezzin  call.  Instead  of  the  countless  kinds 
of  stone  described  by  Josephus  as  forming  parts  of  the  palace,  only 
rattling  limestone  is  seen.  The  richly  chased  vessels  of  gold  and  silver 
which  served  the  Boman  household  have  been  displaced  by  the  canteen 
and  the  mess-kettle  of  the  garrison  of  the  Crescent.  The  great  dining- 
hall  which  supplied  table-couches  for  three  hundred  guests  has  been 
covered  with  the  armory,  which  is  occupied  by  the  soldiers  of  the  gar- 
rison, who  shoulder  American  rifles  instead  of  supporting  broad  Da- 
mascus blades  with  bejewelled  hilts.  The  open  space  before  the  pal- 
ace, as  we  have  seen^  is  no  longer  made  attractive  by  broad,  winding 
walks  underneath  groves  of  spices ;  there  are  only  ablution  fountains 
in  place  of  the  broad  canals  and  miniature  lakes  which  were  kept  fresh 
from  the  great  reservoirs  of  Solomon  located  down  near  Hebron. 

On  the  right  or  east  side  of  the  group  of  government  buildings  is  a 
solidly  built  tower  with  an  arched  doorway.  It  is  the  present  fortress 
of  the  city.  It  is  supposed  to  stand  upon  the  site  of  the  palace  men- 
tioned by  Nehemiah,  and  where  Pilate  held  forth  when  he  adjudged 
the  accused  Jesus.    Here  Paul  made  his  courageous  stand  for  the 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM.  203 

Christian  faith.  Many  a  time  has  the  old  structure  faced  the  brunt  of 
battle  for  Jew,  Christian,  and  Mohammedan.  Immediately  on  its  other 
side  is  the  Via  Dolorosa  with  the  "  Arch  of  Ecce  Homo."  The  Via 
Dolorosa  is  a  diagonal  depression  which  runs  across  the  city  from  the 
Gate  of  St.  Stephen  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre  ;  it  is  one  of  the  principal 
streets —  Via  Dolorosa.  If  water  ran  through  it,  what  with  its  grated 
windows,  low  doorways,  narrowness,  prison-like  walls,  and  serpentine 
windings,  one  might  call  it  a  street  of  Venice.  The  monks  have, 
through  the  straining  endeavors  of  ages,  located  eight  "  events  "  here 
which  took  place  during  the  last  days  of  our  Saviour,  and  have  erected 
a  "station"  with  an  accompanying  shrine  at  each  traditional  spot. 
Soon  after  entering  St.  Stephen's  Gate,  the  wall  of  the  Temple  area  is 
reached.  In  it  are  the  stones  of  two  ancient  arches  where  stood  Pilate's 
Staircase,  leading  into  the  Judgment  Hall.  A  little  farther  westward 
is  the  arch  of  Ecce  Homo,  where  Pilate  exclaimed,  "  Behold  the  Man ! " 
Following  these  are  the  stations  "  where  the  fainting  Je^us  made  an 
impression  with  his  shoulder  in  the  stone  wall  when  he  fell ;  the  house 
of  St.  Veronica,  who  wiped  the  bleeding  brow  of  Jesus  with  a  handker- 
chief ;  where  Simon  was  compelled  to  bear  the  cross ;  where  the  weep- 
ing daughters  of  Jerusalem  were  addressed  by  Jesus,  and  where  his 
tragical  death  took  place." 

Shrewd  Greeks  are  still  allowed  to  go  where  the  Jew  is  not  toler- 
ated ;  for,  near  several  of  these  stations,  we  find  their  shops  for  the 
manufacture  and  sale  of  articles  made  of  olive  wood. 

If  the  Western  visitor  comes  here  during  Easter  week  he  will  fully 
understand  the  blight  which  has  been  caused  by  Moslem  fanaticism. 
A  good  hour  for  such  a  visit  is  in  the  afternoon,  after  the  sun  has  gone 
down  behind  the  great  dome  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and 
nearly  all  the  daylight  has  crept  out  of  the  historical  area.  In  one 
sense  it  is  a  rest.  There  are  no  sleepy  priests,  nor  gossiping  train- 
bearers,  nor  censer-swingers,  nor  beadles  begrimed  with  snuff;  neither 
dripping  tapers,  though  there  are  beads  in  plenty.  More  than  likely 
the  broad  court  is  entirely  empty  of  devotees  when  you  enter,  and  there 
is  time  to  look  up  at  the  minaret  and  compare  it  with  the  old  home 
spire.  A  turbaned  officer  makes  his  appearance  upon  the  gallery  and 
assumes  the  attitude  of  prayer ;  his  tenor  voice  is  heard  sending  forth 
the  muezzin  call.  The  soft  winds  come  from  the  Jordan  over  the 
Mount  of  Olives,  they  sweep  across  the  Kidron,  leap  the  ancient  wall. 


204  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

and  swirl  into  the  area ;  as  they  come  they  catch  the  cry  and  bear  it  by 
g-usts  and  by  impulses  into  all  parts  of  the  city  to  those  who  are  wait- 
ing the  call  to  prayer  with  eager  expectancy.  Faithful  -listeners  miles 
away  may  receive  the  summons  too ;  then,  wherever  they  are,  their 
faces  grow  serious,  they  turn  their  eyes  toward  the  east,  and  obey  that 
summons.  The  cry  is  not,  "  Joy  to  the  world,  the  Lord  is  come,"  but 
the  same  as  that  which  our  turbaned  friend  repeats  five  times  a  day, 
"Hy  Has  Sula  !  Hy  Has  Sula!  Hy  ilal  felah  !  La  Ila  Illulah  !  Wa  Mo- 
hammed Kasoul  Ullah  !  "  "  There  is  no  God  but  God,  and  Mohammed 
is  his  prophet.  Come  thou  to  prayer,  for  prayer  is  better  than  eating 
or  di'inking."  The  innumerable  gates  in  the  wall  and  in  the  kiosks 
open  suddenly  and  simultaneously,  as  though  moved  by  magic,  then 
those  privileged  to  pray  in  the  mosque  enclosure  come  slowly  in.  They 
have  their  favorite  places.  A  large  number  usually  gather  near  the 
western  side  of  the  dome.  They  are  careless  of  all  observers,  and  are 
alike  indifferent  to  the  architectural  splendor  about  them.  First,  loas- 
sages  from  the  Koran  are  read,  standing ;  then  they  fall  upon  their 
knees,  with  their  hands  placed  at  the  sides  of  their  heads,  their  eyes 
directed  to  heaven ;  next,  their  bodies  are  lowered  upon  their  heels  and 
their  hands  are  placed  upon  their  knees  with  their  heads  bowed  hum- 
bly ;  next  the  devotees  rise,  and,  placing  their  hands  at  their  faces, 
"  move  them  to  and  fro  to  gather  in  the  blessings ;  "  finally,  they  pros- 
trate themselves  with  their  faces  to  the  ground,  crying  out  fervently 
with  a  heart-moving  *'  Ullah  Akbah  !  Ullah  Akbah  !  "  The  process  is 
repeated  several  times,  each  time  with  increased  fervor,  for  the  devotees 
believe  that  the  oftener  they  pray  the  more  blessings  they  receive. 

I  saw  a  different  picture  after  I  went  out  from  that  court  on  that 
Good  Friday  evening.  Passing  out  through  the  arched  doorway  of  the 
Palace  of  Antonia  into  the  Arch  of  Ecce  Homo — underneath  which,  as 
tradition  has  it,  Pilate  scourged  Jesus,  and  handing  him  over  to  the 
infuriated  mob,  said,  "  Behold  the  man  " — the  Via  Dolorosa  was  fol- 
lowed until  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  was  reached.  The 
kavass  of  Colonel  Wilson,  of  Iowa,  the  then  American  consul,  with 
baton  in  hand,  awaited  at  the  door.  He  was  accoutred  in  all  the 
glories  of  the  costume  of  the  Albanians  and  Syrians.  But  his  apparel 
was  in  keeping  with  the  glitter  of  the  silver  image  of  the  American 
eagle  which  fluttered  upon  the  top  of  his  baton,  and  they  seemed  to 
have  their  effect,  for  ui)on  their  joint  appearance  the  motley  crowd 


Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 


206  IJSr  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

which  thronged  the  broad  court  of  the  church  gave  way  and  permitted 
us  to  reach  the  entrance  unharmed.  Through  dark  passages  and  up 
lofty  stairs  the  glistening  Arab  led,  until  at  last  an  .upper  room  was 
reached,  where,  to  use  the  words  of  our  consul,  "  a  part  of  the  Crucifix- 
ion scene  was  to  be  enacted,  and  sermons  preached  in  the  Greek, 
French,  Italian,  German,  Arabic,  and  English  languages."  The  chapel 
was  lighted  by  a  hundred  gold  and  silver  jewelled  lamps,  fed  with 
American  kerosene,  and  that  was  about  the  only  part  our  great  nation 
took  in  the  service.  The  exercise  was  announced  to  begin  at  half -past 
six,  but  it  was  eight  o'clock  before  the  Coptic  monks  who  opened  it 
made  their  appearance.  The  greater  part  of  their  share  in  the  perform- 
ance was  sung  in  the  dreary,  drony  cadence  of  the  Greek  Church. 
Then,  by  the  appearance  of  the  German  representatives,  the  audience 
was  aroused  from  the  semi-comatose  state  into  which  it  had  lapsed. 
One  of  these  stood  by  a  velvet  rug  spread  upon  the  floor  and  delivered 
a  short  discourse  in  a  sing-song  tone.  Before  he  began,  a  three-quarter 
size  crucifix  was  brought  in  by  an  assistant  and  laid  upon  the  rug,  the 
head  toward  the  speaker,  and  remained  there  during  his  sermon.  The 
French  deputation  followed,  consisting  of  monks,  choir-boys  sing- 
ing a  funeral  dirge,  and  a  fine  responding  chorus  of  men.  Others  fol- 
lowed, some  swinging  censers,  some  bearing  silver  torches,  and  two 
carried  broad  silver  platters.  On  one  of  the  platters  was  a  gaudily 
trimmed  regalia,  and  on  the  other  an  antique  hammer  and  a  i^air  of 
pincers.  The  crucifix  was  now  lifted  from  the  velvet  rug-  on  the  floor 
and  placed  upon  the  altar.  The  nails  were  then  drawn  from  the  hands 
and  feet  of  the  figure  by  a  monk,  who  tenderly  kissed  each  bit  of  iron. 
It  was  then  laid  upon  the  altar  and  covered — a  mimicry  of  the  "  descent 
from  the  cross."  The  empty  cross  was  allowed  to  remain  standing 
erect.  A  sermon  in  the  French  language  followed  this  ceremony ;  then 
the  choral  exercises  were  repeated,  while  the  "  body  "  was  placed  upon 
a  bier,  and  amid  the  strains  of  another  dirge  was  carried  down  to  the 
vestibule  and  laid  upon  the  "  stone  of  unction."  This  marble  slab  had 
been  kissed  smooth  and  out  of  true  by  the  myriads  of  i^ilgrims  who  had 
visited  it,  although  the  "  real  stone  "  upon  which  the  Lord's  body  lay 
when  anointed  for  his  burial  was  underneath  and  out  of  sight.  The 
ceremony  of  anointing  was  performed  in  Arabic,  then  the  show  was 
ended  by  carrying  the  image  to  the  tomb.  While  all  this  went  on  the 
hooting  and  shouting  and  carousing  which  took  place  in  the  body  of 


BOUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM.  207 

the  church,  where  thousands  of  pilgrims  had  come  from  all  parts  of  the 
earth  to  attend  the  Easter  service,  was  as  shameful  as  it  was  dreadful. 
It  continued  all  night,  for  next  day  the  "  miracle  of  the  holy  fire  "  was 
i:)romised  to  occur  without  fail,  and  this  seething  mass  of  humanity  had 
come  thus  early  in  order  to  secure  places  for  that  occasion.  To  prevent 
a  disturbance  a  detachment  of  soldiers  was  sent  from  the  Turkish  gar- 
rison, and  the  men  were  stationed  here  and  there  among  the  "  Clirist- 
ians."  Every  year  is  made  this  collection  of  friars,  monks,  priests, 
nuns,  consuls,  military  officers,  soldiers,  pilgrims,  and  strangers  from 
all  nations — encircled  by  the  Moslem  crowd,  which  gathers  to  mutter 
and  imprecate  so  far  as  it  dares  without  breaking  the  peace.  It  was 
near  midnight  Avhen  the  strange  procession  returned  to  "  Calvary." 
Then  all  the  lights  were  turned  do^vTi,  and  those  who  wished  to  depart 
found  their  way  the  best  they  could.  Jerusalem  in  Easter  week,  I  im- 
agine, must  look  somewhat  as  it  did  during  the  feast,  when  the  tri- 
umphal entry  was  made.  All  around  were  the  pointed  white  tents  of 
the  stranger-pilgrims  who  had  come  from  every  quarter  to  witness  the 
services  which  were  to  ensue.  The  paths  and  roads  leading  to  the 
gates  of  the  city,  and  crossing  the  hills  and  the  plain  in  every  direction, 
were  thronged  with  those  who  were  arriving  from  the  neighboring  vil- 
lages to  share  in  the  observances  of  the  holy  week.  The  noise  and  the 
confusion  at  all  the  city  gates  converted  them  into  veritable  bedlams 
and  babels.     The  scenes  were  picturesque  beyond  all  description. 

The  only  gate  in  use  now,  on  the  eastern  side,  is  St.  Stephen's  Gate. 
It  is  nearest  to  the  Mount  of  Olives,  and  from  its  doorway  Gethsemane 
can  be  x^lainly  seen.  The  path  across  leads  first  down  the  steep  incline 
of  Mount  Moriah,  and  then  over  the  stone  bridge  which  spans  the 
Kidron  Yalley,  and  ascends  to  the  walls  of  Gethsemane.  There  the 
three  pathways  which  lead  to  Bethany  join,  and  thence  they  separate ; 
one  leads  to  the  summit  of  Olivet,  through  the  little  village  there,  and 
then  down  on  the  eastern  side ;  the  second,  ascending,  skirts  the 
shoulder  of  Olivet  on  the  south,  and  joins  the  first  a  little  time  before 
reaching  Bethany ;  the  third,  and  one  most  used,  wends  to  the  right 
just  outside  the  wall  and  east  of  Gethsemane  garden ;  this,  following 
the  base-line  of  Olivet  on  the  south,  leads  to  Bethany,  and  thither  to 
Jericho,  the  land  of  Moab,  Perea,  and  Decapolis.  The  summit  of  Oli- 
vet is  about  400  feet  above  the  Kidron  Valley,  and  2,800  feet  above  the 
Mediterranean.    The  ascent  from  Jerusalem  is  a  steep  one.     From  base 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM.  209 

to  summit  its  broad  terraces  are  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  the  olive. 
The  top  is  quite  level,  and  is  the  site  of  a  small  village  with  an  attend- 
ant mosque,  "  to  protect,"  says  the  Moslem,  "  the  Church  of  the  Ascen- 
sion and  other  religious  buildings  "  situated  there.  My  tent,  during  the 
greater  part  of  my  sojourn  in  the  neighborhood,  was  pitched  in  a  grain- 
field  beneath  the  shades  of  an  olive  grove  just  west  of  the  summit  of 
the  Mount  of  Olives.  At  the  joining  of  the  trio  of  paths  described  as 
leading  to  Bethany,  is  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  stone  wall  which  is  divided  by  shrines  facing  inside  the  garden, 
all  looking  strangely  new  in  comparison  with  the  gnarled  old  trees 
that  they  surround.  After  knocking  at  the  low  gate,  the  visitor  is 
questioned  by  an  old  monk  and  then  admitted.  The  garden  is  care- 
fully kept  by  the  venerable  custodian.  The  whitewashed  fence  of  pal- 
ing and  the  trim  flower  garden  afford  another  strange  contrast  with  the 
gnarled  and  ancient  olive-trees.  In  one  comer  of  the  garden  is  a  well 
of  delicious  water.  A  bucket  with  rope  running  over  a  pulley  are  used. 
Near  this  well  are  the  humble  quarters  of  the  monk  in  charge.  A  mar- 
ble canopy  with  an  iron  gate  incloses  Canova's  bas-relief  of  "The 
Agony."  A  neatly  kept  walk  leads  one  around  the  circuit  of  the  garden 
from  shrine  to  shrine.  Parts  of  the  walls  are  covered  with  pictures 
reiDresenting  scenes  which  took  place  during  our  Lord's  last  night  on 
eai*th.  Wormwood  and  the  Passion-vine  trail  about  the  walls  in  pro- 
fusion.   It  is  a  lovely  spot. 

Following  on  now  from  the  scenes  of  the  Temple  and  the  i)alace, 
out  of  the  city  gate,  across  the  dry  valley,  up  through  the  green  and 
gray  by  any  one  of  the  three  paths  we  may  choose,  we  come  to  the  little 
village  of  Jebel  et  Tur,  situated  upon  the  flat  central  summit  of  the 
Mount  of  Olives.  Near  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the  Church  of  the  As- 
cension, erected  to  mark  the  spot  of  earth  last  touched  by  the  feet  of 
Jesus  before  he  ascended  to  heaven.  The  church  which  first  stood  here 
was  one  of  the  enterprises  of  the  Empress  Helena,  the  mother  of  Con- 
stantine.  It  was  followed  by  the  present  structure  and  the  little 
mosque  which  accompanies  it.  Indeed,  the  church  or  dome  of  the  As- 
cension is  located  within  the  court  of  the  mosque.  A  Christian  edifice 
is  tolerated  in  this  land  only  when  a  Moslem  structure  is  placed  near  at 
hand.  "  The  last  footprint  of  the  Saviour,"  distorted  by  the  wear  of 
ages  and  by  the  kisses  of  the  devout  of  centuries,  is  shown  upon  the 

rock  which  forms  part  of  the  gloomy  interior.     Singularly  enough  the 
14 


The  Mount  of  Olives — Garden  of  Gelhsemane, 


BOUND  ABOUT  JEBU8ALEM.  211 

chapel  is  entirely  empty.  Driven  from  our  tents — pitched  a  few  rods 
away — by  a  sudden  shower  one  morning,  my  companions  and  I  were 
permitted  to  seek  shelter  here.  A  small  fire  of  charcoal  was  kindled  in 
a  brazier.  The  fumes,  with  the  smell  of  lime  coming  from  the  damp 
plastered  wall,  almost  stifled  us.  AVhen  the  sun  came  back  the  oblig- 
ing custodian,  who  also  cries  the  hour  of  prayer,  took  his  place  in  the 
minaret  and  permitted  the  camera  to  include  him  in  the  view  made  of 
the  buildings.  The  prospect  from  the  minaret  on  every  side  is  not 
only  grand,  but  embraces  some  of  the  most  interesting  of  biblical  sites. 

A  wearisome,  hard,  seven  hours'  donkey  ride  is  required  to  reach  the 
Dead  Sea,  and  no  little  danger  accompanies  the  route  through  sunless 
ravines  and  over  bare  and  desolate  heights,  where  the  merry  song  of 
the  cascade  is  heard  only  when  the  spring  torrents  come.  The  hills 
are  of  a  singular  greenish-gray  color  until  within  a  mile  or  so  of  the 
Jordan,  when  they  change  to  a  mingling  of  pink,  yellow,  and  white, 
and  merge  into  the  yellows  and  greens  which  cover  the  nearer  flat 
approach  to  the  verdure-clad  river.  The  pink-topped  mountains  of 
Moab  rise  on  the  other  side  quite  as  high  as  the  Mount  of  Olives,  but 
they  do  not  look  so.  They  reach  south  and  east  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
see,  their  bare  peaks  numbering  and  unnumbered  like  those  seen  from 
the  Furka,  but  as  different  in  their  nature  as  the  whitest  snow  can  be 
from  the  most  sun-scorched  of  all  the  earth's  surface.  To  the  north  the 
mountains  of  Gilead  rise,  where  Jacob  separated  his  flocks  into  droves 
lest  his  unhappy  brother  Esau  run  them  off  into  the  wilds  beyond.  In 
whatever  light  one  sees  them,  at  daytime  or  by  moonlight,  these  views 
are  grand. 

We  turn  now  to  the  western  prospect.  In  full  front  and  first  of  all 
there  is  "  Jerusalem  the  Golden,"  with  every  detail  we  have  just  studied 
clearly  and  sharply  defined,  with  hundreds  of  other  points  of  interest, 
including  the  encircling  walls.  A  rough-looking  country  intervenes, 
but  it  is  full  of  sacred  interest.  There  is  the  path  up  which  David  fled 
from  his  rebellious  son  Absalom,  weeping  as  he  went  up,  with  his  head 
uncovered  and  his  feet  bare — where  the  kingly  fugitive  held  council  of 
war  with  his  faithful  adherents  ;  where  good  Ziba  brought  refreshments 
which  saved  the  royal  life ;  where  the  ark  was  rested ;  where  Hushai 
came  affrighted,  "  with  his  coat  rent,  and  earth  upon  his  head,"  to  tell 
of  the  intrigue  of  Absalom.  Pigeons  were  sold  under  the  trees  for  tem- 
ple-offerings of  purification,  close  by  the  pool  where  the  unclean  per- 


212 


Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


formed  their  ablutions  before  presenting  themselves  to  the  Lord.  The 
long"  incline  was  submerged  by  the  smoke  which  came  from  the  burn- 
ing of  the  red  heifer,  the  ashes  of  which  were  preserved  for  the  purifi- 
cation of  the  people  ;  the  glory  of  the  Lord  crowned  the  summit ;  upon 
the  bare  rocks  the  watchmen  stood  eager  to  catch  the  first  glimmer  of 
the  torch-light  signal  from  their  fellows  stationed  upon  the  mountains 
of  Moab,  and  quickly  repeated  the  sign  to  the  priests  at  the  Temple 
that  they  might  know  when  the  new  moon  made  its  appearance  above 
the  eastern  horizon. 

And  now  let  us  go  back  to  the  city.     We  must  pay  the  usual  tribute 
money  before  we  enter  any  of  the  gates,  especially  if  we  follow  the  tide 


A  Group  of  Lepers  and  the  Lepers'  Hospital. 


which  is  always  at  its  flood  at  the  Joppa  Gate.     The  leper  is  the  tax- 
gatherer  this  time. 

Ever  since  the  time  that  Naaman,  the  Syrian  leper,  came  to  Samaria 
to  be  cured,  the  horrid  woes  of  leprosy  have  clung  to  some  parts  of 
Palestine.  One  day  a  dozen  or  more  of  its  poor  victims  came  limping 
and  leaping  after  me,  begging  alms.  Every  one  held  out  a  tiny  tin 
vessel  to  receive  the  coin,  that  his  offensive  person  might  not  be 
touched  by  the  almsgiver.  They  were  willing  to  group  themselves  for 
the  camera  backed  by  the  grim  accessories  of  the  lepers'  hospital. 
Eyes,  noses,  fingers,  hands,  feet,  faces,  and  even  throats  were  gone  in 
some  cases.     Their  cry  was  pitiful  and  strangely  varied  as  well — "  Bak« 


BOUND  ABOUT  JEBUSALEM. 


213 


sees!"  "Bali-heez!"  "Back-siz!"  "  Ba-ish ! "  "Bah-ee!"  "'Zees,  how- 


adji !  "  they  wailed, 
nounce  either  the 


Some  of  them  would  have  been  puzzled  to  pro- 
shibboleth  "  of  the  Gileadites  or  the  "  sibboleth " 


The  Jews'  Quarter. 

of  the  Ephraimites  had  they  been  challenged  after  the  battle  at  the 
passag-e  of  the  Jordan.  It  seemed  as  though  pebbles  were  rattling- 
down  their  dried  bronchial  tubes,  or  else  that  their  throats  were  torn 
anew  at  every  utterance.  One  is  glad  enough  to  purchase  release  from 
such  a  loathsome  sight  by  a  liberal  backsheesh.  It  is  not  a  wonder 
that  a  man  so  afflicted  should  dare  the  law  by  entering  the  synagogue 
in  order  to  reach  the  Healer  with  his  cry  of  faith,  "  If  thou  wilt,  thou 
canst  make  me  clean."    Nor  was  it  strange  that  Jesus,  moved  with 


214  12^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS, 

compassion,  set  aside  Judaism  by  touching  the  leper  and  saying,  "  I 
will ;  be  thou  clean." 

Jerusalem  is  divided  into  four  quarters :  namely,  the  Mohammedan, 
the  Jewish,  the  Greek,  and  the  Latin,  or  "  Christian,"  quarter.  The 
tall  minarets  of  the  Moslem  enable  him  to  keep  an  eye  over  all.  The 
muezzin  call  is  heard  everywhere ;  but  the  sale  of  crucifixes  and  ros- 
aries, together  with  chromos  of  the  Virgin  and  prints  of  Raphael's 
Madonnas,  is  restricted  to  the  Christian  quarter.  So  rigidly  are  the 
Jews  enjoined  from  visiting"  the  more  prominent  parts  of  Jerusalem, 
that,  as  in  Tyre  and  Sidon  two  thousand  years  ago,  so  here,  they  find 
no  freedom  from  insult,  except  in  the  Jews'  quarter.  There  the  new 
sjTDagogue  is  situated  among  the  curious  old  houses  with  modern  at- 
tachments. The  building  is  reached  by  narrow  streets.  Its  locality  is 
close  to  one  of  the  five  or  six  palm-trees  that  now  remain  in  the  city. 

Most  of  the  houses  are  in  a  dizzy  state  of  dilapidation  and  ruin. 
The  Oriental,  as  a  rule,  will  not  make  repairs  so  long  as  his  domi- 
cile affords  him  shelter  and  protects  him  from  the  burglar.  If  one 
apartment  startles  him  with  its  collapse,  he  digs  his  properties  out 
from  the  ruin,  moves  into  another,  and  leaves  his  late  quarters  to  the 
vermin.  Distance  lends  enchantment  to  such  a  view  as  this.  Go  and 
look  into  its  details  and  you  will  see  tottering  stairways  shored  up 
to  prevent  them  from  utterly  going  to  pieces ;  walls  through  which 
dust  and  air  have  their  own  sweet  way ;  apartments  too  wretched  for 
human  habitation;  filth  the  "king."  And  yet  the  squalid  city  pre- 
sents a  picturesque  side  and  the  people  are  attached  to  it.  Every- 
one there  seems  to  be  waiting  for  something.  Whether  it  is  for  Mes- 
sias,  or  for  a  windfall  from  the  members  of  the  faith  who  send  them  an- 
nual donations  from  Euroioe,  or  for  freedom  from  oppression,  or  for 
more  business  to  come,  or  for  more  energy,  you  cannot  guess  until  you 
proceed  to  move  away  from  their  dark  and  narrow  streets,  and  then  the 
plaintive  "  backsheesh  howadji  "  explains  the  riddle  and  casts  a  new 
sadness  over  the  whole  scene.  All  this  misery  is  seen  on  the  very  spot 
where  David  composed  his  songs  of  thanksgiving,  and  where  the  walls 
of  Zion  caught  the  sweet  refrains  which  the  royal  fingers  started  from 
the  harp. 

The  Christian  quarter  includes  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 
and  the  Greek  and  the  Latin  convents.  The  Pool  of  Hezekiah  is  one 
of  the  authentic  places  of  the  past,  and  lies  back  of  "  Christian  Street." 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 


215 


On  one  side  of  the  passage-way  we  see  a  fair  example  of  those  places  so 
dear  to  the  heart  of  every  Oriental — the  coffee-house,  the  barber-shop, 
and  the  Turkish  bath.  There  is  no  palm-tree  in  this  quarter,  but  there 
is  as  fine  an  old  oak  as  the  groves  of  Bashan  can  boast. 

There  are  three  sabbaths  in  Jerusalem — Friday  for  the  Moslem,  Sat- 
urday for  the  Hebrew,  and  Sunday  is  shared  by  the  Greek  and  Latin 
and  the  Protestant  sojourners  together.      During  Passion  week  the 


The  Christian  Quarter.     From  the  Pool  of  Hezekiah,   looking  toward  the  Mount  of  Olives. 


area  in  front  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  is  turned  into  a  reg- 
ular mart  for  the  sale  of  carved  beads,  shell-work,  pressed  flowers, 
crosses,  and  articles  fashioned  from  olive-wood.  The  salesmen  are 
dreary  and  indifferent,  and  the  general  appearance  of  things  is  dull 
and  depressing. 

There  are  perhaps  three  places  where  one  may  see  "  stones  "  that 
were  here  when  Jesus  was  crucified.  One  of  these  is  near  the  south- 
west comer  of  the  Temple  area,  and  is  known  as  the  "  Jews'  Wailing- 
Place."    There  are  five  courses  of  stones,  one  above  the  other,  with  the 


216  Ilf  8CRIPTUBE  LANDS. 

bevelled  joints  of  Solomon's  day  forming  part  of  the  wall.  Here  every 
Friday  the  resident  Hebrews  come  to  mourn  the  destruction  of  the 
Temple  and  the  fall  of  the  city  of  their  fathers.  Earthquake  has 
slightly  displaced  the  stones,  and  the  kisses  of  the  pilgrims  of  many 
centuries  have  worn  away  the  quarrymen's  chisel-marks,  yet  they  look 
as  though  they  might  serve  for  many  ages  to  come.  At  the  extreme 
southwest  angle  of  the  Haram  wall  is  a  stone  measuring  thirty-one  feet 
in  length,  seven  feet  in  width,  and  five  feet  in  height.  It  is  the  chief 
comer-stone,  and  is  undoubtedly  the  one  placed  there  by  the  order  of 
Solomon  to  help  inclose  his  Temple.  Scant  forty  feet  north  of  this, 
half  hidden  by  bushes,  which  had  to  be  partly  cut  away  to  make  room 
for  the  camera,  is  another  place  where  we  may  believe  the  handiwork 
of  Solomon's  masons  is  to  be  seen.  There  are  three  courses  of  huge 
stones  in  such  curious  position  that  they  seem  to  have  been  fired  out 
from  the  inside  through  a  breach  in  the  wall,  and  there  caught  and 
wedged  fast,  instead  of  falling  to  the  ground.  A  careful  view  leaves  no 
doubt  that  they  formed  the  segment  of  an  arch,  for  their  outer  surfaces 
are  hewn  to  a  true  curve.  Each  one  measures  from  twenty  to  twenty- 
four  feet  in  length  and  from  ^^e  to  six  feet  in  height.  They  must  in- 
deed have  formed  part  of  one  of  the  arches  of  the  great  bridge,  more 
than  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  over  which  Solomon, 
attended  by  his  splendid  retinue,  must  have  often  passed.  Centuries 
later  Jesus,  too,  passed  over  this  publix5  way.  This  strangely  interest- 
ing relic  of  the  past  is  known  as  "  Robinson's  Arch,"  so  called  after 
Dr.  Edward  E-obinson,  who  discovered  it.  In  his  own  account  the  dis- 
tinguished traveller  says  : 

"  The  existence  of  these  remains  of  the  ancient  bridge  seems  to  re- 
move all  doubt  as  to  the  identity  of  this  part  of  the  inclosure  of  the 
mosque  with  that  of  the  ancient  Temple.  How  they  can  have  remained 
for  so  many  ages  unseen  or  unnoticed  by  any  writer  or  traveller  is 
a  problem  which  I  would  not  undertake  fully  to  solve.  .  .  .  Here 
we  have  indisputable  remains  of  Jewish  antiquity,  consisting  of  an  im- 
portant portion  of  the  western  wall  of  the  Temple  area.  They  are 
probably  to  be  referred  to  a  period  long  antecedent  to  the  days  of 
Herod ;  for  the  labors  of  this  splendor-loving  tyrant  appear  to  have 
been  confined  to  the  body  of  the  Temple  and  the  porticos  around  the 
court.  The  magnitude  of  the  stones  also  and  the  workmanship  as 
compared  with  other  remaining  monuments  of  Herod  seem  to  point  to 


Wailing-place  of  the  Jews.     (From  a  photograph  by  W.  Kurtz  of  the  painting  by  Verestchagin.) 


ROUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 


219 


an  earlier  origin.  .  .  .  Proceeding  to  the  southeast  comer,  we  find 
its  character  to  be  precisely  similar  to  that  of  the  southwest ;  the  same 
immense  stones  as  already  described,  both  toward  the  east  and  the 
south,  on  the  brink  of  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and  the  line  of  the 
southern  wall  at  this  point  corresponding  with  that  at  the  southwest 
comer.     We  have,  then,  the  two  extremities  of  the  ancient  southern 


The  Towers  of  David  and  of  Jesus. 


wall,  which,  as  Josephus  informs  us,  extended  from  the  eastern  to  the 
western  valley,  and  could  not  be  prolonged  further.  Thus  we  are  led 
irresistibly  to  the  conclusion  that  the  area  of  the  Jewish  Temple  was 
identical  on  its  western,  eastern,  and  southern  sides  with  the  present 
inclosure  of  the  Haram." 

The  fourth  and  last  point  to  be  considered,  as  supplying  a  construc- 
tion which  must  have  been  familiar  to  our  Saviour,  is  the  Tower  of 
Hippicus,  or  the  Tower  of  David,  so  called.     When  Herod  built  his 


220 


m  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


Place  of  the  Skull. 


Tombs  of  the  Kings.  great  Wall  about   Jerusalem,   he    built 

three  strong  towers  toward  the  north- 
west. One  of  these  was  Hippicus ;  the  second  was  Phasselus,  named 
after  his  friend;  and  the  third  was  called  Mariamne,  after  his  favor- 
ite wife.  These  strongholds  were  connected  with  one  another  and 
vnih.  the  royal  palace.  The  first  named  seems  to  have  been  spared  at 
every  siege,  and  may  be  looked  upon  now  as  a  splendid  example  of  the 
masonry  of  antiquity.  It  is  situated  near  to  Zion's  Gate  and  a  little 
south  of  the  Jopjia  Gate  and  still  serves — or  its  adjacent  buildings  serve 
— as  the  citadel  of  Jerusalem.  The  sturdy,  sloping  bulwark  is  said  to 
be  solid.  No  entrance  has  ever  been  discovered,  and  the  stones  are 
({uarried  like  those  of  the  Jews'  Wailing  Place.  From  its  summit  one 
has  fine  views  of  the  city.  From  one  point  an  interesting  combination 
view  is  afforded — of  David's  Tower  and  the  humble  bell-tower  of  the 
English  Church  close  at  hand — the  tower  of  David,  the  anointed  of  the 
Lord  and  of  the  Saviour  anointed — of  David  the  King  of  Israel,  and  of 
Jesus  Christ  the  Son  of  David  and  the  King  of  Glory ! 


BOUND  ABOUT  JERUSALEM. 


221 


A  ride  to  the  rock-hewn  sepulchres  kno^vn  as  the  "Tombs  of  the 
King's  "  will  reveal  some  "  stone  "  studies  which  are  valuable.  The  en- 
trance to  one  of  these  subterranean  villages  of  the  dead  is  closed  by  a 
"  rolling-stone  " — a  rudely  cut  disk,  perhaps  a  yard  in  diameter,  stand- 
ing on  edge  in  an  inclined  groove  which  runs,  deep  cut,  from  one  side 
of  the  doorway  to  the  other.  ^\Tien  the  tombs  are  ojien,  the  stone  is 
rolled  to  the  left,  and  a  small  wedge  is  placed  under  it  to  keep  it  from 
returning.  When  the  wedge  is  removed,  the  rolling-stone  immediately 
follows  the  incline  to  the 
right  until  it  reaches  a 
slightly  deeper  depression, 
*  into  which  it  rolls  ;  thus 
it  closes  the  entrance  of 
the  tomb.  Considerable 
strength  is  required  to  dis- 
place it.  At  the  southeast 
comer  of  the  TemjDle  area 
there  are  also  a  number  of 
courses  of  immense  stones, 
with  their  edges  bevelled 
after  the  Jewish  fashion, 
undoubtedly  by  the  quarry- 
men  of  Solomon.  Under 
them  is  found  a  beautiful 
and  substantial  illustration 
of  the  expression  in  which 
our   Lord    is   called   "the 

head  of  the  comer,"  and  of  Matt.  xvi.  18 — "  Upon  this  rock  I  will 
build  my  church." 

Eetuming  to  the  summit  of  the  Golden  Gate  on  Good  Friday,  a  last 
review  was  had  of  the  country  round  about.  The  sun  had  just  sunk 
behind  the  domes  of  the  old  church.  The  crimson  glow  left  the  heights 
and  the  broad  shadows  fell.  The  moon  arose  beyond  Olivet  as  red  as 
blood.  Soon  its  gentle  influence  was  felt  in  the  wild  gorges  and  rocky 
glens  which  run  down  Olivet  to  the  Yale  of  Kidron ;  the  olive-trees 
glistened  more  than  they  do  in  the  sunshine.  The  languid  air  was 
made  fresher  by  the  breeze  which  blew  from  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  How 
the  wind  wailed  among  the  tombs  below  !    What  a  strange  unison 


A  Tomb 


mg  Stone-door. 


222  IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

between  this  placid  hour  and  the  sacred  associations  on  every  side! 
It  must  have  been  just  such  a  night  when  the  three  wise  men  sat  watch- 
ing for  "  his  star  in  the  east." 

A  land  of  "  sorrows  and  acquainted  with  grief,"  surely  this  has  been. 
Here  are  some  of  the  most  splendid  ruins  in  the  world — Phoenician, 
Jewish,  Roman,  Grecian,  and  Crusaders'.  Earthquake,  war,  and  Islam 
have  all  shattered  the  land  and  broken  the  spirits  of  the  people,  until 
now  there  is  just  as  much  room  for  missionary  effort  as  there  was  when 
Jesus  and  "  the  twelve  "  travelled  the  route  over  which  we  have  tried  to 
follow  them.  The  legends,  the  sepulchres,  the  wells,  the  caves,  the 
mountains,  the  rivers,  the  climate,  the  "  land  with  milk  and  honey 
blest,"  with  all  its  seclusion  and  its  history,  will  remain.  But  there  is 
room  for  more  conquest  and  more  history. 


CHAPTEK  IX. 

WHERE  WAS   THE   PLACE   CALLED   CALVARY  ? 

A  Survey  from  the  Mount  of  Olives. — The  Personal  Account  of  Rev.  Charles  S.  Robinson, 
D.D. — "Oriental  and  Sacred  Scenes,"  by  Dr.  Fisher  Howe.— The  Bible  Record. — 
A  Map  of  Jerusalem. — The  Grotto  of  Jeremiah. — "Golgotha"  Discussed. — "The 
Place  of  a  Skull."— Where  was  the  Place  Called  Calvary  ?— The  "Place"  Dis- 
covered and  its  Location  Determined. — Jerusalem  from  Mount  Calvary. — The 
Damascus  Gate  near  ' '  the  True  Site  of  Calvary. " 

1^0  earnest  traveller  will  visit  Jerusalem  without  trying  to  obtain  a 
~^^  satisfactory  answer  to  the  query :  "  Where  was  the  place  called 
Calvary  ?  "  I  was  not  derelict  in  this  direction  and  caused  my  camera 
to  secure  views  which  I  thought  would  help  solve  the  question.  By 
the  generosity  of  Rev.  Charles  S.  Robinson,  D.D.,  of  New  York,  I  am 
enabled  to  add  an  article  from  his  pen  on  this  interesting  subject.  The 
pictures  alluded  to  are  incorporated  therein. 

"  In  the  morning  of  the  first  day  that  our  party  spent  in  Jerusalem, 
as  soon  as  the  tents  were  pitched  out  upon  the  hill  near  the  Russian 
convent,  and  a  home  thus  established  for  the  week's  sojourn,  three  of  us 
set  forth  for  a  walk  around  the  city,  with  but  a  small  sense  of  the  force 
of  hot  sunshine  falling  upon  white  paths  and  glowing  walls  when  the 
full  strength  of  a  Syrian  noontide  should  be  attained.  We  entered 
the  town  by  the  Damascus  gate  and  pursued  our  way  along  the  narrow 
and  tortuous  streets  until  we  came  out  through  St.  Stephen's  gate  upon 
the  slope  leading  down  across  the  Kidron  valley :  we  followed  the  path 
that  passes  the  Tomb  of  the  Virgin  Mary  and  the  Garden  of  Gethsem- 
ane,  working  our  steps  up  the  middle  road  to  the  very  top  of  Mount 
Olivet.  The  story  of  this  trip  appears  quite  simple,  and  one  would 
hardly  suppose  that  we  should  find  its  accomplishment  so  fatiguing. 
It  is  a  surprise  to  most  tourists  to  discover  the  steepness  of  some  of 
these  paths ;  that  which  runs  down  from  the  spot  where  one  tradition 


224  Z/Y  8GBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

says  that  Stephen  was  stoned  is  actually  precipitous;  the  track  for 
horses  is  cut  in  angular  zigzags  with  acute  turnings  so  as  to  render  it 
possible  for  the  animals  to  climb  up,  or  to  keep  from  slipping  head- 
long on  the  descent. 

"  We  were  conducted  in  this  instance  by  a  young  man  from  the  mis- 
sion of  the  English  Church,  an  Armenian  by  birth,  but  a  Protestant  by 
'  belief  and  experience,  being  one  of  the  converts  God  has  given  for  the 
fidelity  of  those  laborers  in  the  Gospel  who  so  long  have  been  working 
in  Jerusalem.  He  wore  his  usual  costume — a  long  worsted  robe  of  a 
maroon  color,  girt  around  the  waist,  and  edged  with  a  variegated  bor- 
der. He  could  understand  and  speak  our  language  readily,  and  was 
constantly  of  help  to  us  in  giving  us  the  names  of  localities  and  build- 
ings along  the  course.  His  strength  was  terribly  tested  by  the  sinewy 
impetuosity  and  tirelessness  of  our  enthusiasm ;  and  long  before  we 
relaxed  that  zeal  of  exploration  which  only  Americans  exercise,  we  dis- 
covered pitifully  that  his  lagging  limbs  sought  rest  at  every  chance 
pause  for  conversation  and  debate.  He  was  cheerful  on  every  demand ; 
but,  like  Eastern  people  generally  in  that  region,  enervate  and  weak  in 
his  muscles. 

"  Our  little  trio  was  made  up  of  Professor  John  A.  Paine,  of  Eobert 
College  in  Constantinople,  Mr.  Alfred  H.  Hall,  then  a  student  in  prepa- 
ration for  the  ministry,  and,  since,  the  able  and  well-known  pastor  of 
one  of  the  Congregational  churches  in  Connecticut,  in  company  with 
the  writer  of  this  article.  At  last  we  reached  the  small  church  build- 
ing planted  professedly— quite  mistakenly  as  to  locality,  however — to 
mark  the  spot  of  Christ's  ascension  to  heaven.  We  mounted  the  dirty 
staircase,  and  worried  ourselves  along  into  a  little  chairless  room  in  the 
steeple,  where  a  quiet  old  man  gave  us  an  awkward  welcome  to  a  seat 
on  the  floor.  I  pulled  up  a  piece  of  straw  matting  for  our  seat,  and 
so  we  ranged  ourselves  close  to  a  narrow  window  looking  down  on  the 
entire  city.  An  inimitably  fine  view  is  that  spread  out  before  one  who 
is  studying  details  of  streets,  walls,  domes,  minarets,  public  edifices, 
hills,  and  valleys. 

"  Directly  in  front  lay  '  the  joy  of  the  whole  earth.'  The  exclama- 
tion which  one  first  makes  concerning  this  pathetic  old  town  has  only 
wonder  in  it — Where  are  the  suburbs  ?  The  buildings  run  up  to  the 
wall  in  most  places,  though  in  one  or  two  of  the  corners  they  do  not 
appear  to  reach  it  quite.     Outside  of  the  inclosure  there  are  no  houses 


WHERE   WAS  THE  PLAGE  CALLED   CALVARY?  225 

to  be  seen  at  all ;  the  slopes  of  Zion,  Ophel,  Bezetha,  are  really  attract- 
ive as  sites,  but  no  such  thing  as  a  villa  has  been  erected  upon  them. 
It  looks  as  if  all  the  people  had,  from  time  immemorial,  lived  on  the 
inside  of  a  stone  line  of  masonry ;  in  literal  as  well  as  scriptural  lan- 
guage, '  Jerusalem  is  builded  as  a  city  that  is  compact  together.' 

"  And  now,  for  a  small  space  in  this  article,  the  narration  has  to 
become  somewhat  personal — more  so  than  pleases  the  writer.  But  I 
must  put  myself  in  the  place  of  a  witness  for  the  object  I  have  in 
view.  I  confessed  afterward  to  my  companions  that  I  had  purposely 
brought  them  to  this  outlook,  and  that  I  now  led  the  conversation  with 
the  utmost  semblance  of  artlessness,  for  a  single  reason.  We  talked  a 
little  while  about  the  points  of  comjDass,  the  lay  of  the  land,  the  eleva- 
tions of  the  surrounding  hills,  the  towers  and  walls,  the  gates  and  sites ; 
and  so,  in  the  sweep  of  our  eyes  we  came  around  to  the  north  side  of  the 
parallelogram  on  the  plan  of  which  the  place  is  outlined.  Suddenly, 
in  a  tranquil  sort  of  comment,  as  if  a  conceit  had  struck  his  fancy,  Mr. 
Hall  said,  'That  is  a  very  curious  conformation  of  rocks  off  there  be- 
yond the  Damascus  gate.'  We  turned  our  eyes  in  the  direction  he  in- 
dicated. *  It  looks  as  much  like  a  skull  as  anything  I  ever  saw,'  con- 
tinued he.  Professor  Paine,  alert  and  eager  as  ever  after,  in  the  days 
when  he  identified  Mount  Nebo,  sprang  to  his  feet,  straining  his  gaze 
with  amazement,  and  positively  quivering  with  the  passionate  thought 
that  he  had  made  a  new  discovery. 

"  What  we  all  saw  was  this :  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  that  gate 

he  mentioned,  the  yellow  wall  of  the  city,  appeared  to  have  been  built 

steeply  up  over  what  seemed  a  quarried  cliff,  through  the  strata  of 

which  was  cut  a  path,  leading  on  the  outside  around  to  the  main  road 

crossing  from  east  to  west  along  the  north  frontier,  down  out  of  vision 

from  where  we  sat.     We  had  to  look  over  the  comer  of  the  city,  across 

the  angle  formed  by  the  east  wall  and  the  north,  in  order  to  see  it.    A 

deep  excavation  had  been  made,  the  bottom  of  which,  levelled  for  the 

use  of  men  and  beasts,  we  could  not  reach ;  we  could  only  trace  the 

lines  of  cutting  on  the  stone.     The  bare  face  of  the  precipice  opposite 

the  entrance  was  distinctly  exposed ;  and  the  top — that  is,  the  original 

surface  of  the  hill — was  rounded  so  as  to  present  against  the  sky  the 

almost  exact  outline  of  a  human  skull.     Moreover,  there  were  visible 

two  cavities  or  holes  in  the  rock;    these  served  as  eyeless  sockets. 

Thus  a  sort  of  side  view,  the  forehead  fronting  southwest,  was  offered. 
15 


226  IW  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

The  name  of  Golgotha  came  at  once  to  our  remembrance.  This  must 
have  been  "  the  place  of  a  skull,"  if  likeness  to  a  skull  was  enough  to 
prove  it. 

"  So  startling  was  this  resemblance  that  it  made  a  deep  impression 
on  the  minds  of  all  of  us.  I  had  noticed  the  same  thing  some  years 
before,  on  the  occasion  of  my  first  visit  to  Jerusalem,  in  1867.  And 
this  was  just  my  purpose  in  bringing  those  intelligent  observers  out 
on  the  hill-side  that  clear  morning,  without  warning  or  explanation.  I 
intended  to  test  their  accuracy  and  quickness  in  discovering  for  them- 
selves the  configuration  and  markings  of  that  singular  spot,  without 
the  prompting  of  any  suggestion  of  my  own.  I  said  to  Professor 
Paine:  'Sit  down  and  quiet  yourself  now.  This  is  what  I  gave  you 
your  tough  walk  for ;  I  had  a  letter  just  before  I  left  home  in  Paris, 
which  I  want  to  read  to  you.' 

"  This  communication  had  been  addressed  to  me  by  an  old  friend  in 
the  city  of  Brooklyn,  Mr.  Fisher  Howe.  He  had  been  known  and  loved 
for  many  years  as  an  elder  in  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  of  that 
place,  of  which  I  was  the  pastor  at  the  time.  Sir  J.  "William  Dawson 
has  referred  to  Mr.  Howe  with  merited  commendation,  and  evidently 
with  sincere  respect.  But  that  he  does  not  know  just  who  he  was,  a 
mere  mention  of  his  name  reveals;  twice  he  calls  him  'Dr.  Fisher 
Howe.'  My  good  and  dear  friend  had  cultivation  and  education,  and 
some  erudite  acquisitions  that  were  worth  having ;  but  he  never  bore 
anything  like  a  literary  or  professional  title  growing  out  of  an  ad- 
vanced college  honor  or  degree.  But,  practically,  he  was  a  good 
scholar  in  New  Testament  Greek,  and  could  manage  Hebrew  as  well 
as  some  clergymen  who  have  misused  better  chances.  He  read  widely 
in  the  best  sorts  of  reading,  and  what  he  read  he  generally  kept  where 
it  was  available.  He  died  several  years  ago,  having  done  what  he 
could  for  his  generation  in  all  such  ways  of  usefulness  as  are  open  to 
genuine  zeal.  But  he  never  expected  to  be  put  into  literature  by  the 
President  of  the  British  Association.  He  was  simply  a  gentleman  of 
wealth,  high  social  position,  real  intellectual  force,  self-educated  in  the 
matters  of  advanced  scholarship  he  loved  to  study,  refined  in  manners, 
enthusiastic  in  Oriental  travel — as  anyone  grows  to  be  who  has  jour- 
neyed through  the  countries  of  the  Bible — and  has  given  to  the  world 
a  book  full  of  his  gains  and  his  wistful  wishes.  As  I  write  now  there 
lies  before  me  a  copy  of  a  volume  he  issued  in  1853,  entitled  "  Oriental 


WHERE  WAS  THE  PLACE  CALLED  CALVARY?  227 

and  Sacred  Scenes."  It  was  published  by  M.  W.  Dodd,  of  New  York 
City,  and  was  welcomed  as  a  good  book.  A  notable  fact  is  this  in  the 
present  discussion ;  for  that  work  shows  he  then  was  eagerly  planning 
and  studying  about  the  true  site  of  Calvary.  Still,  he  was  an  active 
business  man  through  his  life,  and  was  honored  in  the  City  of  Churches 
as  one  of  the  best  citizens  it  claimed  for  worth  and  public  spirit.  But 
in  literature  he  was  only  a  layman. 

"  That  letter  which  I  referred  to,  and  which  now  I  read  to  my  com- 
panions, was  written  to  me  with  a  definite  purpose  by  Mr.  Howe ;  he 
desired  me  to  make  some  observations  and  report  to  him  the  results. 
The  subject  that  interested  him  most  was  the  identification  of  Calvary 
as  the  place  of  our  Lord's  crucifixion.  We  had  talked  it  over  more  than 
a  hundred  times  together  during  the  three  or  four  years  previous  to 
this  journey  I  was  then  making  in  the  East.  The  paragraph  explains 
itself.    He  says: 

" '  I  may  have  mentioned  to  you,  previous  to  your  first  visit  to  Jeru- 
salem, a  lingering  thought  in  regard  to  the  place  of  crucifixion.  "When 
we  lodged  on  Acra,  we  had  from  the  roof  of  our  house  a  full  view  of  the 
rocky  eminence  near  the  Damascus  gate  ;  it  is  known  by  designation 
as  the  Grotto  of  Jeremiah.  I  believe  it  lies  outside  of  what  was  the 
line  of  the  second  wall,  but  "  nigh  "  unto  it ;  and  that  it  may  not  have 
been  materially  changed  during  the  last  eighteen  centuries.  As  seen 
from  a  distance,  the  elevation  is  a  h'anion  in  shape,  and  might  well, 
in  common  parlance,  have  the  cognomen  of  "  a  skull." 

" '  Now,  all  this  may  seem  childish  as  seen  by  you,  for  I  am  not  cer- 
tain when  the  thought  got  into  my  head.  I  did  examine  the  locality  of 
the  Damascus  gate  in  regard  to  the  evidences  of  the  second  wall,  and 
well  remember  to  have  noted  the  wide  and  deep  excavations  between 
the  present  wall  and  the  knoll  referred  to,  and  to  have  marked  the 
curvatures  of  the  strata  of  limestone  rock ;  and  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  the  excavation  dated  back  to  the  Christian  era.  The  curvatures 
are  marked  on  either  side,  showing  the  same  original  formation ;  and 
with  the  evidence  then  before  me,  I  believed  that  the  present  wall  at 
the  place  in  question  occupied  the  line  of  the  second  wall.' 

"  This  is  all  that  needs  quoting  from  that  particular  letter.  But  as 
we  read  it  over  up  there  on  the  hill-side,  we  could  not  forbear  surprise 
and  compliment  at  the  evidence  of  careful  observation  and  tenacious 
memory  in  his  thus  giving  minute  details  of  a  visit  that  had  been  made 


228.  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

so  many  years  before.  The  reply  which  I  sent  to  this  letter  when  the 
conclusions  of  our  little  party  had  been  reached,  was  embodied  partly 
in  the  book  that  Mr.  Howe  published  the  next  year.  This  was  called 
'  The  True  Site  of  Calvary.'  It  was  a  thin  octavo  of  sixty-eight  pages, 
issued  by  A.  D.  F.  Randolph,  New  York  City,  1871.  So  modest  was  it 
in  look  and  size  that  it  raised  no  popular  enthusiasm  in  the  notice 
taken  of  it,  and  after  the  first  edition  was  exhausted  it  fell  out  of  print. 
Of  late  it  has  been  called  for  again ;  for  now  the  site  seems  to  be 
actually  accepted,  and  there  is  a  sort  of  competition  among  explorers 
as  to  the  credit  of  having  first  suggested  the  knoll  by  the  Damascus 
gate  as  being  probably  the  exact  place  where  our  Lord  was  crucified. 

"Mr.  Howe's  object  in  his  publication  was  to  set  forth  the  plainest 
arguments  for  his  conjecture  in  the  plainest  way.  No  one  can  make 
light  of  his  work ;  he  writes  calmly,  and  attempts  nothing  eloquent — 
is,  indeed,  rather  too  terse  and  dry  for  popular  rhetoric.  But  Sir  J. 
William  Dawson  testifies  to  his  having  summed  up  the  Scripture 
l^roofs  for  his  purpose  '  with  great  care,'  and  calls  his  argument  '  able.' 
If  real  students  choose  to  read  what  he  has  said,  they  will  go  with  him 
to  his  conclusions  now ;  but  when  he  wrote  that  volume  all  the  world 
seemed  afraid  to  challenge  the  absurd  tradition  which  fixed  the  cruci- 
fixion up  in  the  air  over  a  graded  hill,  under  the  roof  of  an  old  structure 
that  contains  everything,  and  the  burial-place  of  Jesus  not  far  from  it, 
beneath  the  same  dome.  Mr,  Howe  was  in  Jerusalem  in  1853.  For 
eighteen  years  thereafter  he  was  occupied  with  studying  all  the  author- 
ities that  he  could  find  upon  the  subject ;  his  mind  was  full  of  the 
theme.  In  1870  he  writes  that  he  does  not  know  how  long  ago  the 
thoughts  got  into  his  mind ;  and  within  a  twelvemonth  he  lays  his  book 
before  the  public.  It  is  simply  candid  to  assert  that  he  was  first  in  the 
field  with  his  orderly  proofs,  seven  or  eight  years  before  any  of  those 
who  now  seek  to  pass  his  volume  by  had  given  their  slow  adhesion  to 
his  arguments  and  begun  to  claim  the  credit  of  having  supplied  them 
to  the  public.  The  necessity  of  this  case  required  in  the  outset  that 
he  should  state  what  the  evangelists  have  to  say,  and  what  other  allu- 
sions found  in  the  New  Testament  demand  in  reference  to  the  site. 
He  makes,  with  a  conspicuous  italicizing  of  his  words,  six  points  in 
their  turn : 

First.  That  the  place  of  the  crucifixion  was  outside  the  walls  of 
Jerusalem ;  and  he  adduces  Hebrews  xiii.  12 ;   Matthew  xxvii.  31,  32 ; 


WHERE   WAS  THE  PLACE  GALLED   CALVARY?  229 

Jolin  xix.  16,  17,  with  parallel  passages  from  other  gospels  saying  the 
same. 

Second.  That  this  place  was  nigh  to  the  city.     (John  xix.  20.) 

Tliird.  That  it  was  popularly  known  under  the  general  designation 
of  Kranion.  He  notes  the  meaning  of  Golgotha  and  of  Calvary,  and 
then  he  quotes  Matthew  xxvii.  33  ;  Luke  xxiii.  33 ;  and  John  xix.  20. 

Fourth.  That  it  was  obviously  nigh  to  one  of  the  leading  thorough- 
fares to  and  from  Jerusalem.     (Matthew  xxvii.  39  ;  Mark  xv.  29.) 

Fifth.  That  this  spot  was  very  conspicuous  ;  that  is,  it  could  be  seen 
by  those  at  a  distance.  (Matthew  xxvii.  55 ;  Luke  xxiii.  35  ;  John  xix. 
20.) 

Sixth.  That  it  was  nigh  to,  not  only  sepulchres,  but  also  gardens. 
(John  xix.  38-42.)  Then  to  these  enumerations  of  proofs  he  adds  his 
entire  conclusion :  "  No  sophistry,  or  interposed  traditional  authority 
or  belief,  can  be  allowed  to  evade  these  plain  demands  of  the  written 
word  of  God.  Failure  to  meet  one  of  them  is  proper  ground  for  sus- 
picion ;  failure  in  all  is  good  cause  for  rejecting  any  site,  traditional  or 
hjrpothetical."    With  these  propositions  he  proceeds  to  apply  his  tests. 

"  Of  course,  therefore,  the  earliest  thing  this  author  was  obliged  to 
set  himself  definitely  to  accomplish  was  to  destroy  the  force  of  an  estab- 
lished tradition  in  favor  of  the  so-called  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 
He  marshalled  his  proofs  to  show  that  this  building  could  not  be  reck- 
oned as  ever  having  been  outside  of  the  city.  Hence  he  entered  into 
the  controversy  about  the  walls  of  that  historic  old  capital  with  a  map 
and  a  Bible  in  his  hands.  The  map  which  accompanies  this  sketch  of 
Mr.  Howe's  process  of  reasoning  is  a  great  deal  better  than  the  one 
he  copied  from  a  guide-book  of  his  time.  It  will  do  its  own  work  in 
exhibiting  how  utterly  impossible  it  is  to  twist  Jerusalem  into  a 
straggling  figure  of  awkwardness  sufficiently  wretched  to  allow  of  that 
rambling  and  mysterious  piece  of  architecture  being  considered  out- 
side the  wall.  If  one  would  take  his  stand  upon  the  knoll  by  the  Da- 
mascus gate  and  look  over  on  the  city,  finding  the  domes  and  towers 
of  the  church  conspicuous  in  the  grouping  almost  at  the  centre  of  the 
town,  he  would  own  the  difficulty  instantly.  Mr.  Howe  discusses  this 
in  his  '  Oriental  and  Sacred  Scenes,'  and  throws  all  his  force  against 
that  traditional  theory  even  from  the  beginning.  It  is  useless  here  to 
waste  space  in  argument ;  it  is  enough  to  say  that  nobody  has  ever 
answered  the  objections  of  such  scholars  as  Dr.  Edward  Kobinson, 


Map  of  Jerusalem. 


WHERE  WAS  THE  PLACE  CALLED  CALVARY?  231 

Dr.  William  M.  Thomson,  and  scores  of  other  writers  of  more  or  less 
repute.  It  is  impossible  to  meet  the  scriptural  conditions  with  that 
locality ;  and  there  is  no  other  in  Jerusalem  which  will  meet  them  ex- 
cept that  by  the  Grotto  of  Jeremiah. 

"  The  only  representative  site  for  Calvary  now  oflfered  pil^ims  in 
Jerusalem  is  found  in  a  couple  of  rooms  inside  the  old  edifice ;  one  is 
owned  and  exhibited  by  the  Greeks,  another  by  the  Latins.  These 
share  the  same  disability ;  both — since  the  church  is  already  so  full  of 
traditions  on  the  ground  floor — had  to  go  up  a  flight  of  stairs  into  free 
space  nearer  the  roof.  And  there  it  is,  amidst  tawdry  curtains  and  gilt 
bedizenments  of  candles  and  altar-shrines,  that  this  ancient  spot  upon 
which  the  cross  of  Jesus  Christ  rested  is  pointed  out,  and  the  veritable 
hole  is  shown  in  which  it  was  planted.  And  the  thieves'  crosses — a 
decorous  but  rather  inadequate  distance  of  five  feet  between  them  on 
the  right  and  left  of  the  middle  one — are  ranged  alongside.  And 
down  underneath,  far  below  across  some  intervening  space  left  by 
grading  away  the  actual  soil  of  the  hill,  so  we  are  sagely  told,  is  the 
grave  of  Adam !  Tradition  has  related  that  at  the  crucifixion  of  Jesus 
some  drops  of  blood  fell  through  upon  Adam's  skull  and  raised  him 
suddenly  to  life ;  and  there  are  commentators  who  declare  that  so  the 
prophecy  quoted  by  the  apostle  Paul  (Ephesians  v.  14)  was  well  ful- 
filled :  "  Awake,  thou  Adam  that  sleepest  [for  thus  the  former  versions 
read  in  the  text],  and  arise  from  the  dead,  for  Christ  shall  touch  thee." 
The  art-people  say  that  this  is  the  origin  of  the  fact  that  in  those  early 
rude  representations  of  the  death  of  our  Lord  a  skull  is  introduced. 

"  Can  any  man  of  sensibility  be  blamed  if  he  makes  an  imperious 
demand  that  something  more — something  else  at  least — shall  greet 
him  in  answer  to  his  question,  Where  was  our  Lord  crucified?  If 
there  should  be  no  other  advantage  gained  by  the  acceptance  of  a  new 
site  as  now  proposed,  this  would  be  enough :  it  would  put  an  end  to 
the  awkward  and  ofiensive  impostures  daily  exhibited  under  the  roof 
of  that  filthy  old  church.  They  are  a  standing  mockery  of  the  claims 
of  the  Christianity  they  profess  to  uphold.  Those  ceremonies  of 
Easter  at  the  tomb  where  our  Lord  is  declared  to  have  been  buried 
are  a  caricature  of  an  event  so  glad  and  holy.  The  struggle  around 
the  flames  that  are  chemically  forced  out  of  the  smoky  hole  in  the 
sepulchre,  so  that  devotees  in  frantic  zeal  may  light  their  lamps,  brings 
death  from  the  trampling  of  thousands,  fills  the  house  with  howls  that 


232 


Ili  SGRIPTUBE  LANDS. 


put  heathenism  to  shame,  and  sends  true  believers  away  with  an  in- 
finite disgust  and  horror  deep  in  their  hearts.  How  long  must  such  a 
scandal  be  patiently  endured  ? 

"  Mr.  James  Fergusson,  certainly  one  of  the  highest  authorities  on 


The  Grotto  of  Jeremiah. 


all  architectural  subjects,  says  plainly  he  thinks  that  the  idea  of  an  in- 
terior building  like  that  of  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre  containing  the 
site  of  the  crucifixion  and  burial  is  too  absurd  to  merit  serious  refuta- 
tion ;  and  he  does  not  believe  it  would  require  it  but  for  the  open  ad- 
mission in  all  opposing  arguments  of  the  lack  of  anyone's  being  able 


WHERE   WAS  THE  PLAGE  CALLED  CALVARY?  233 

to  say,  or  even  to  hint,  where  the  true  site  is.  To  this  remark  he  is 
willing  to  add  his  conviction  that  the  present  traditional  notion  will 
never  be  broken  up  until  this  practical  want  is  supplied.  Here  is  the 
real  flaw  in  the  logic :  '  Men  will  twist  and  torment  facts  and  evidence 
until  they  make  it  quite  clear,  to  their  own  minds,  that  what  they  wish 
to  be  true  must  be  so.'  It  is  not  necessary  to  accept  this  conclusion  as 
absolute ;  some  delusions  concerning  sites  have  been  surrendered,  and 
still  the  places  emptied  of  them  in  the  popular  folly  have  not  been  as 
yet  authentically  filled.  There  is  a  positive  advantage  always  in  the 
settlement  which  common  sense  makes  in  putting  down  an  imposture, 
just  for  its  own  sake ;  and  we  hope  this  has  become  possible,  in  these 
later  times,  with  that  church  of  Helena's  building  in  the  city  of  Jeru- 
salem. But  there  is  still  greater  gain  in  putting  down  an  imposture 
and  erecting  in  the  place  of  it  a  truth  and  a  fact.  In  his  bright  book 
of  letters  from  Palestine  entitled  '  Haifa,'  Mr.  Laurence  Oliphant  offers 
the  results  of  modem  observation  and  discussion  with  swift  and  intel- 
ligible words  that  are  very  welcome ;  especially  in  this  instance  it  is 
worth  our  while  to  find  and  note  the  present  posture  of  thought.  He 
says: 

"  '  Every  indication  goes  to  show  that  Golgotha,  or  Calvary,  was  a 
knoll  outside  the  Damascus  gate,  exactly  in  the  opposite  direction  to 
that  affixed  by  Christian  tradition,  and  which  would  do  away  with  the 
Via  Dolorosa  as  a  sacred  thoroughfare,  the  street  shown  as  that  along 
which  Christ  bore  his  cross  on  his  way  to  execution.  It  is  only  prob- 
able that  Calvary  was  the  ordinary  execution  ground  of  Jerusalem, 
which  is  called  in  the  Talmud  "  the  House  of  Stoning  "  about  a.d.  150, 
and  which  current  tradition  among  the  Jews  identifies  with  this  knoll 
— a  tradition  borne  out  by  the  account  of  it  contained  in  the  Mishnah, 
or  text  of  the  Talmud,  which  describes  a  cliff  over  which  the  condemned 
was  thrown  by  the  first  witness.  If  he  was  not  killed  by  the  fall,  the 
second  witness  cast  a  stone  upon  him,  and  the  crowd  on  the  cliff,  or 
beneath  it,  completed  his  execution.  It  was  outside  the  gate,  at  some 
distance  from  the  judgment-hall.  The  knoll  in  question  is  just  outside 
the  gate,  with  a  cliff  about  fifty  feet  high.  Moreover,  we  are  informed 
that  sometimes  they  sunk  a  beam  in  the  ground,  and  a  cross-beam  ex- 
tended from  it,  and  they  bound  his  hands  one  over  the  other,  and  hung 
him  up.  Thus  the  "  House  of  Stoning  "  was  a  recognized  place  of  cru- 
cifixion.   It  is  curious  that  an  early  Christian  tradition  pointed  to  this 


234  Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

site  as  the  place  of  stoning-  of  Stephen,  the  proto-martyr.  The  vicinity 
has  apparently  always  been  considered  unlucky.  An  Arab  writer  in 
the  Middle  Ag-es  pronounces  a  barren  tract  adjoining-  accursed  and 
haunted,  so  that  the  traveller  should  not  pass  at  night.' 

"  Many  modem  explorers  have  accepted  the  conclusion  noted  above ; 
most  of  those  who  have  written  on  the  theme  have  marshalled  their 
arguments  to  g-ive  it  proof.  And  what  is  remarkable  beyond  anything 
else  is  the  fact  that  these  arguments  are  the  same  as  those  used  by  my 
old  and  dear  friend,  Mr.  Fisher  Howe,  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century 
ag-o.  The  spot  has  been  named  the  '  Grotto  of  Jeremiah '  for  no  reason 
that  has  any  sense  in  it.  The  story  was  that  the  old  prophet  lived  in- 
side of  the  strang-e  cavern  at  the  base,  as  a  hermit  would  live  in  some 
cleft  of  the  hill-side  ;  that  he  penned  his  commentaries  there  and  com- 
I)osed  his  prophetic  book,  and  sang-  his  melancholy  Lamentations. 
Still,  this  proves  nothing ;  and  history  says  that  this  prophet  lived  in 
Egypt  for  the  latter  years  of  his  career,  and  wrote  his  messages  back 
to  his  loved  people  who  exiled  him,  dwelling  in  Pharaoh's  house  in 
Tahpanhes. 

"  But  the  cave  is  wonderfully  extensive ;  some  say  it  is  a  hundred 
feet  deep.  Indeed,  the  excavations  under  the  entire  hill  must  have 
been  the  work  of  ages,  and  would  be  considered  a  wonder  anywhere 
else  than  in  the  vicinity  of  Jerusalem.  The  cliff  is  shorn  sheer  down, 
as  if  cut  with  a  chisel,  and  presents  a  perpendicular  facade  fifty  feet 
high.  Close  by  it  are  many  graves,  and  underneath  the  so-called  grotto 
are  vast  cisterns  of  pure  water.  The  whole  hill-side  is  venerable  and 
majestic.  It  looks  like  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  imperishable  land- 
marks of  that  suburb,  and  could  not  fail  to  have  been  from  time  im- 
memorial a  notable  place  to  all  who  went  out  or  in  by  the  gate  leading 
toward  the  north. 

"  Among  those  who  have  written  most  ably  and  most  recently  on 
this  subject  is  Dr.  Selah  Merrill,  for  some  time  the  American  consul  at 
Jerusalem.  He  there  enjoyed  very  rare  opportunities  for  his  study, 
and  whatever  he  offers  is  worthy  of  profound  respect.  This  testimony 
is  from  his  pen :  *  For  some  years  past  there  has  been  a  growing  convic- 
tion that  the  hill  in  which  Jeremiah's  Grotto  is  shown,  situated  a  little 
to  the  northeast  of  the  Damascus  gate,  satisfied  the  conditions  as  to 
the  site  of  Calvary  better  than  any  other  spot  in  or  around  Jerusalem. 
Indeed,  a  large  number  of  competent  scholars  have  already  accepted 


WHERE   WAS  THE  PLAGE  CALLED   CALVABT?  235 

this  hill  as  Golgotha.  From  the  Mount  of  Olives  and  Scopus,  from  the 
road  leading"  north  past  the  Eussian  buildings  west  of  the  city,  from 
many  points  north  of  the  town,  and  from  many  of  the  house-tops  within 
Jerusalem  itself,  this  hill  attracts  the  eye  by  its  prominence.  On  the 
north  slope  of  the  hill  the  slaughter-house  of  Jerusalem  stood  until 
two  years  since  (1883),  when  it  was  removed  to  a  more  suitable  locality 
northeast  of  the  town.  In  its  place  two  buildings  have  been  erected, 
one  of  which  is  used  as  a  residence.  From  these  a  high  wall  has  been 
constructed,  running  past  the  large  "  Meis  "  tree  still  standing  there, 
which  many  will  remember,  and  on  toward  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the 
west.  The  western  slope  is  composed  of  barren  earth  and  broken  rock, 
but  at  the  bottom  on  this  side  there  is  a  large  garden,  where,  some  feet 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  ruins  have  been  found  which  are 
marked  in  the  maps  as  an  "  asnerie  " — a  term,  however,  which  conveys 
no  adequate  idea  of  the  extent  and  character  of  the  ruins.  The  south 
face  is  vertical,  and  has  in  it  the  so-called  "  Grotto  of  Jeremiah."  Far- 
ther along  in  this  southern  face,  which  does  not  run  in  a  straight  line, 
great  quantities  of  stone  have  been  quarried  within  the  past  few  years. 
Toward  the  east  the  hill  does  not  fall  in  a  single  slope,  but,  as  it  were, 
in  two  terraces.  The  hill  may  be  said  to  be  prolonged  in  this  direction, 
the  eastern  knoll  or  second  terrace  being  a  little  lower  than  the  other. 
The  entire  summit  of  the  hill  is  covered  with  Moslem  graves.  This 
fact  has  no  doubt  prevented  the  hill  from  being  bought  up  and  built 
upon  hitherto,  and  this  alone  still  prevents  the  ground  from  passing 
into  the  hands  of  foreigners.  This  graveyard  is  an  old  one  ;  and  who 
can  say  that  the  hand  of  Providence  is  not  specially  visible  in  the  pres- 
ervation of  this  spot,  in  this  strange  manner,  from  the  disgusting  and 
degrading  monkish  traditions  which  would  otherwise  have  sprung  up 
about  it  ? ' 

"  The  brisk  rehearsal  of  Mr.  Howe's  argument  is,  therefore,  all  that 
at  present  is  needed  to  complete  the  exhibition  I  have  been  trying  to 
make  of  what  he  has  done  in  the  direction  of  establishment  and  proofs. 

"  First.  This  spot  is  certainly  outside  the  walls  of  the  city.  No  one 
will  ever  have  to  make  crooked  pictures,  and  distort  circumvallations, 
in  order  with  such  a  site  to  meet  this  text :  '  Wherefore  Jesus  also, 
that  he  might  sanctify  the  people  with  his  own  blood,  suffered  without 
the  gate.' 

"  Second.    The  place  of  the  crucifixion  was  nigh  to  the  city.    No  time 


Place  of  the  Skull. 


.   WHERE  WAS  THE  PLACE  CALLED   CALVARY?  237 

needs  to  be  lost  in  saying  that  this  knoll  is  close  beside  the  gate  on 
the  north,  which  has  for  unreckoned  years  been  unchanged  and  change- 
less in  location.  All  the  lay  of  the  land  there  is  as  old  as  any  part  of 
Jerusalem  can  be.  Historic  proof  can  be  offered  that  this  wide  chasm 
was  fashioned  by  the  engineers  of  King  Hezekiah  himself  long  and 
long  before  Jesus  Christ  was  born.  The  conformation  of  that  "  skull 
shape"  must  have  existed  just  so  for  ages.  All  scholars  are  agreed 
that  the  rock,  cut  through  at  that  time  for  the  path,  is  the  original  base 
of  the  w^all.  So  lofty  are  the  parapets  in  this  direction  that  besiegers 
never  have  ventured  an  attack  on  the  northern  side.  The  structures, 
therefore,  are  almost  unbroken.  Wall  and  hill  together  form  a  perpen- 
dicular face  seventy  or  eighty  feet  high.  Hence  armies,  in  all  the  fit- 
ful fortunes  of  Jerusalem,  have  chosen  easier  places  for  undertaking 
breaches  of  entrance.  And  the  cliff  directly  facing  the  wall,  with  its 
rounded  cranium  and  its  black  sockets,  suggesting  a  skull  now  so 
plainly,  has  been  there  in  all  the  years  to  make  the  same  suggestion. 

"  Third.  The  hill  is  noticeably  skull-shaped,  so  that  in  iDopular 
habit  it  may  have  been  called  by  the  name.  It  is  well  enough  to  say 
just  at  this  point  that  the  revisers  of  the  New  Testament  have  done,  of 
their  o^ti  accord,  what  Mr.  Howe  used  often  to  tell  me  ought  to  have 
been  done  before.  They  have  changed  the  Latin  designation  for  the 
proper  English  in  the  gospel  of  Luke  (xxiii.  33) :  *  And  when  they  came 
unto  the  place  which  is  called  The  Skull,  there  they  crucified  him.'  So 
in  Matthew's  story  (xxvii.  33) :  *  And  when  they  were  come  unto  a  place 
called  Golgotha,'  the  article  is  changed  to  definite  instead  of  indefinite 
— '  the  place  called  Golgotha.'  It  was  a  known  spot — '  in  the  place 
was  a  garden,  and  in  the  garden  a  new  sepulchre,' — as  if  close  by  and 
familiar. 

"  I  choose  to  touch  this  i^oint  with  a  single  illustration.  We  are  all 
acquainted  with  these  curious  freaks  of  nature  that  after  long  ages  be- 
come landmarks  just  because  of  their  singularity.  Who  will  ever  for- 
get the  '  Profile '  in  the  White  Mountains  ?  One  has  to  go  to  the  exact 
spot,  however,  in  order  to  see  it,  or  it  will  evade  his  observation  in 
every  case,  and  he  will  have  to  join  the  innumerable  throng  of  incredu- 
lous tourists  who  insist  that  there  is  no  semblance  of  a  face  in  the  cliff, 
or  anywhere  else  outside  of  the  imagination  of  some  young  people. 
The  portrait  of  the  '  White  Horse '  across  the  Saco  Eiver,  in  front  of 
the  fine  Intervale  House  in  North  Conway,  affords  another  example.    It 


238  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

is  visible  and  intelligible  to  everybody  ;  and  yet  it  has  to  be  looked  for 
and  looked  at  when  the  sunlight  strikes  it  at  a  particular  angle.  For 
unreckoned  years  these  two  landmarks  have  been  there  in  the  rocks, 
and  they  will  stay  there  until  doomsday,  for  all  we  know.  Because 
they  are  so  odd,  popular  imagination  takes  them  up,  and  makes  use  of 
them  forever.  There  is  nothing  m6re  certain  and  unalterable  than  the 
*  Pulpit,'  or  the  '  Cathedral,'  or  the  '  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,'  to  ^n 
a  site  and  a  name. 

"  So  Mr.  Howe  used  to  consider  this  shape  of  a  hranion,  there  in  an 
elevated  conspicuousness  beside  the  Damascus  gate,  one  of  his  strong- 
est arguments  for  the  spot  he  preferred.  I  might  perhaps  add  that 
the  only  way  to  catch  the  whole  effect  is  to  choose  a  position  of  some 
reach  of  distance  away  to  the  southeast.  Afterward,  on  another  walk, 
with  the  rest  of  our  company  to  give  further  witness,  we  found  that  the 
observation  was  more  successful  from  near  the  point  where  our  Lord 
looked  down  upon  Jerusalem  when  he  wept  over  the  prospect  of  its 
destruction.  There  are  three  roads  that  appear  on  the  map  as  leading 
across  the  summit  of  the  Mount  of  Olives:  the  southern  one  goes 
around  rather  than  over  the  ridge,  taking  a  sharp  bend  almost  like  a 
right  angle ;  it  is  just  there  that  the  full  view  of  Jerusalem  bursts  most 
gloriously  on  the  sight.  We  thought  the  appearance  of  the  skull  shape 
was  more  distinct  at  this  point  than  even  at  the  belfry  of  the  Church  of 
the  Ascension.  / 

"  Now,  it  is  freely  admitted  by  everybody  that  there  is  no  docu- 
mentary or  historic  proof  that  this  place  bore  such  a  name  at  the  time 
when  Jesus  was  crucified.  But  some  place  there  was  close  by  and  just 
outside  of  Jerusalem  which  did  bear  that  name  then.  Where  was  it  ? 
Our  Sunday-school  teachers  are  all  told  in  the  popular  commentaries 
to  answer  the  children,  when  they  ask  why  the  spot  where  Jesus  was 
crucified  was  called  Golgotha,  that  it  was  either  because  the  place  was 
shaped  like  a  skull,  or  because — being  the  ordinary  place  of  execution 
or  burial  of  criminals — skulls  might  be  discovered  there.  Both  of  these 
may  have  been  true ;  and  both  of  these  are  true  of  this  knoll  of  the 
Damascus  gate,  so  far  as  the  shape  and  graves  are  concerned. 

''Fourth.  This  place  must  have  been  nigh  to  one  of  the  leading 
thoroughfares  of  Jerusalem.  The  passers-by  'railed  on  him.'  These 
persons,  in  all  likelihood,  were  the  ordinary  traffic-people,  or  the  vil- 
lagers coming  in  and  out,  or  the  sojourners  who  were  in  the  suburbs  in 


WHERE  WAS  THE  PLACE  CALLED  CALVARY? 


239 


tents  or  booths,  having  journeyed  up  to  the  feast.  The  northern  road, 
reaching  out  over  the  country  toward  Shechem,  Tyre,  and  Damascus, 
was  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  fixed  in  Palestine.  The  Damascus  gate 
was  named  after  it. 

"  F if  til.    The  site  of  the  crucifixion  must  have  been  very  conspicu- 
ous.    '  And  the  people  stood  beholding.'     Some  of  these  were  females, 


Jerusalem  from   Mount  Calvary. 

to  whom  it  would  have  been  perilous  to  force  their  way  through  the 
crowds  of  soldiers  and  coarse  creatures  present  at  crucifixions.  Possi- 
bly an  anxious  few  of  such  as  had  been  helped  and  healed  by  the  Lord 
were  desiring  to  keep  watch  of  the  sad  spectacle :  *  There  were  also 
women  looking  on  afar  off.'  There  is  an  excellent  diorama  now  upon 
exhibition  in  New  York  showing,  in  the  modern  form  of  half -picture 
and  half -figure,  the  crucifixion  scene  ;  and  the  most  striking  feature  of 
the  representation,  so  far  as  the  populace  is  concerned,  is  the  crowd 
upon  the  long  reach  of  wall,  gazing  off  at  those  crosses  on  the  knoll. 
The  unusually  elevated  portion  of  the  fortifications  at  the  Damascus 
gate  affords  an  outlook  to  be  found  nowhere  else  in  the  city.  Indeed, 
this  spot  satisfies  all  the  needs  of  the  sacred  narrative.  It  is  a  high, 
conspicuous  place,  at  no  very  great  distance  from  the  governor's  house. 
The  way  to  it  would  be  along  the  streets  of  the  city,  where  the  crowds 
would  be  met,  the  daughters  of  Jerusalem  thronging  Jesus  as  he 
passed.  It  is  situated  precisely  where  he,  sinking  under  his  cross, 
would  most  need  help.  The  hill  in  front  of  the  Damascus  gate  is  so 
steep  that  the  path  winds  in  order  to  get  up  to  the  top  of  the  knoll ; 


240 


JiV  SCBIPTURE  LANDS. 


and  there  is  where  the  countryman,  Simon  the  Cyrenean,  would  be 
caught,  just  as  he  was  entering,  and  forced  to  aid  in  carrying  the  cross 
up  the  slope. 

"  Sixth.  The  place  of  crucifixion  must  have  been  nigh  to  gardens 
and  sepulchres.  Sir  J.  William  Dawson  says  he  visited  the  vicinity  in 
the  company  of  Dr.  Selah  Merrill,  and  found  that  to  this  day  small  gar- 
dens occupy  the  level  ground  at  the  foot  of  the  skull-shaped  knoll,  and 
upon  the  borders  of  such  gardens  are  tombs.  This  same  writer,  in 
common  with  others,  dwells  forcibly  upon  the  fact  that,  when  Jesus 


The  Damascus  Gate. 


was  raised,  two  angels  appeared  standing  at  the  head  and  foot  of  the 
sepulchre,  so  as  to  be  visible  to  those  who  came  to  the  i)lace ;  more- 
over, the  door  of  the  opening  was  low,  so  that  one  had  to  stoop  to  look 
into  it,  and  the  great  stone  which  kept  the  mouth  closed  was  rolled 
along  in  grooves  to  fall  into  its  position.  Such  structures,  it  is  claimed, 
are  not  to  be  found  anywhere  else  in  the  suburbs  of  Jerusalem ;  but 
some  have  been  in  later  times  found  on  that  hill  beside  the  Damascus 
gate.  The  customary  manner  of  building  the  places  of  interment  was 
to  fashion  a  series  of  long,  narrow  receptacles,  not  dissimilar  to  our 
own  way  in  vaults  of  cemeteries — chambers  into  which  the  bodies  were 
slid  with  the  head  far  back  in  utter  darkness,  and  only  the  feet  seen 


WHERE  WAS  THE  PLAGE  CALLED  CALYART?  241 

when  the  door  was  opened.  Much  importance  is  attached  to  this  state- 
ment ;  and  it  is  generally  accepted  as  quite  true  as  a  matter  of  fact  by 
those  who  know  best. 

"  With  this  rehearsal  it  is  well  enough  to  leave  the  argument  just 
where  Mr.  Fisher  Howe  left  it.  One  characteristic  of  his  unpretending 
volume  will  be  noticeable  upon  each  page  of  it — the  author  was  de- 
voted to  his  task,  and  emboldened  by  his  enthusiasm  to  deliver  a  little 
book  in  its  behalf ;  but  he  was  personally  diffident,  and  almost  pain- 
fully a  modest  man  in  literature.  He  tried  his  hardest,  from  the  be- 
ginning to  the  end  of  the  volume,  to  commit  somebody  or  anybody 
responsibly  to  an  indorsement  of  his  conviction.  He  never  wished  to 
make  a  sensation  in  such  a  matter ;  what  he  desired  was  that  people 
should  give  uj)  the  former  absurdities  as  to  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  and  accept  this  sane  and  sensible  conclusion  that  Jesus 
Christ  was  crucified  on  that  elevated  spot  beside  the  Damascus  gate. 
If  only  he  could  have  forced  words  out  of  old  Dr.  Edward  Kobinson's 
tomes  declaring  the  truth  of  what  the  heart  of  hearts  within  him 
believed,  he  would  have  given  over  the  matter  gladly  to  him.  This 
will  explain  some  crude  allusions  to  authors  and  public  men  of  repute 
that  appear  among  his  quotations.  Dr.  Selah  Merrill  has  published 
this  little  paragraph  in  an  excellent  article  : 

"  '  As  regards  the  question,  Who  first  suggested  the  hill  above  Jere- 
miah's Grotto  as  the  probable  site  of  the  crucifixion  ?  it  may  be  that 
this  honor  belongs  to  an  American  who  was  distinguished  in  quite  an- 
other department  than  that  of  biblical  geography,  namely,  to  the  emi- 
nent Rev.  Eufus  Anderson,  D.D.,  who,  when  walking  out  of  the  Damas- 
cus gate,  in  the  year  1845,  in  company  with  his  friend  Dr.  Eli  Smith, 
pointed  to  this  hill,  and  spoke  of  it  to  his  companion  as  in  his  judg- 
ment the  site  of  the  true  Calvary.' 

"  It  would  be  a  matter  of  interest  to  know  how  he  became  acquainted 
with  such  a  fact.  All  the  authority  that  is  in  existence,  I  think,  is  in 
Mr.  Fisher  Howe's  volume.  The  reference  is  so  peculiar  that  one  grows 
interested  to  know  the  whole  of  it.  Mr.  Howe  wrote  to  Dr.  Eufus  An- 
derson, as  he  wrote  to  me,  and  to  many  others,  doubtless,  seeking  an 
understanding  with  them,  sympathy  and  information ;  communicating 
recklessly  and  exhaustively  everything  he  knew,  and  asking  for  some 
pleasant  interchange.     And  I  knew  him  well  enough  to  be  sure,  now  as 

I  write  these  words,  that  he  told  his  correspondents  tenfold  more  than 
16 


24:2  IJSr  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

he  ever  g-ot  back.  I  have  an  affectionate  appreciation  of  the  delight  he 
felt  when  he  had  put  this  brilliant  testimonial  and  corroboration  into 
type  on  his  final  page,  and  linked  together  two  names  he  so  truly  hon- 
ored. But  I  say  unhesitatingly  that  Dr.  Anderson  knew  what  he  was 
then  writing  when  he  said, '  I  thank  you  for  your  suggestions  with  regard 
to  the  true  Calvary.'  Mr.  Howe  had  been  writing  and  studying  for 
enthusiastic  years  before  he  received  the  knowledge  of  Dr.  Anderson's 
tentative  remark  to  Dr.  Smith ;  he  did  not  know  that  anyone  had  ever 
spoken  even  casually  about  such  a  thing ;  and  he  was  glad  to  have  it 
l^ublished  that  so  great  a  man  had  made  the  remark  to  another  man 
so  great. 

"  I  end  this  notice  of  a  very  valuable  small  book,  and  this  affection- 
ate reminiscence  of  a  beloved  friend,  by  saying  in  all  simplicity  that, 
since  Dr.  Anderson  died  without  the  sign,  and  Dr.  Eli  Smith  died  with- 
out the  sign,  and  Mr.  Fisher  Howe,  having  made  the  best  sign  he  could, 
then  died  {nulli  Jfebilior  quam  miJii),  I  sometimes  have  had  a  wish  that 
before  he  died  he  might  have  known  a  little  of  the  grateful  gladness 
with  which  the  world  is  nov/  mentioning  his  name  as  the  one  who  first 
gave  out  the  orderly  argument  to  establish  what  good  men  now  believe 
is  '  The  True  Site  of  Calvary.' " 


CHAPTEK  X. 

FROM  JUDEA  TO  SAMARIA. 

Places  not  yet  Visited. — Some  Notes  on  Samaria  and  on  Galilee. — The  Departure  from 
Jerusalem  via  Jericho. — Scopus-"  Mizpeh." — Bethel — Shiloh. — In  Samuel's  Time. 
— At  Jacob's  Well. — Joseph's  Sepulchre. — Shechem. — Mount  Ebal. — Mount  Geri- 
zim. — The  Pentateuch  of  the  Samaritans. — A  "very  Religious  People." — The 
Houses  of  Shechem. — The  Olive  Groves. — Lepers. — On  the  Road  to  Samaria. — A 
Grand  Prospect. — The  Wandering  Bedouin. — Beggars  by  the  Roadside. — Blood 
Feuds. — Samaria  in  Sight. — Old  History  and  new  Experiences. — In  Herod's  Day.— 
The  "  Good  Samaritan  "  of  our  Day. — The  Church  of  St.  John. — Inquiring  the  Way, 
Scripture  Illustrations  Abound. — The  Parable  of  the  Sower. — A  Picturesque  Land. 
— At  the  Roadside  Fountain. — Jenin,  the  Border  City  of  Samaria. — "Arguing  Re- 
ligion" at  the  Mosque. — The  Glories  of  Galilee  in  Sight. 

fTlHE  student  of  the  Gospel  according  to  St.  Luke  gathers  the  impres- 
-*-  sion  that  in  the  time  of  Christ  Palestine  must  have  had  a  large 
number  of  thickly  settled  cities  and  villages.  Such,  indeed,  was  the 
fact.  The  district  of  Galilee  alone,  says  Josephus,  contained  two  hun- 
dred and  four  j)laces,  with  an  average  of  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants. 
That  would  give  the  two  thousand  square  miles  of  Galilee  a  population 
of  quite  three  millions.  What  a  quantity  of  people  Jesus  must  have 
reached,  then,  in  his  short  ministry,  aided  by  "  the  twelve  "  and  the 
chosen  "  seventy ;  "  for  Luke  declares  "  that  he  went  throughout  every 
<;ity  and  village  preaching  and  shewing  the  glad  tidings  of  the  King- 
dom of  God."  A  large  audience  always  attended  upon  him.  At  Ca- 
pernaum they  "  pressed  "  so  he  had  to  take  to  the  boat ;  at  the  moim- 
tain  he  had  to  seek  an  elevated  position  in  order  to  make  his  voice 
reach  the  thousands  who  gathered  about  him ;  on  another  occasion 
"  the  people  were  gathered  thick  together,"  and  at  still  another  time 
*'  there  were  gathered  together  an  innumerable  multitude  of  people,  in- 
somuch that  they  trode  one  upon  another." 

The  modem  visitor  finds  no  little  difficulty  in  verifying  this  record 
by  means  of  the  present  proofs.  The  most  I  can  hope  to  do,  therefore, 
is  to  follow  the  explorations  and  determinations  of  those  who  have  pre- 


244  I]^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

ceded  me,  and  give  such  as  will  help  in  the  study  of  places  which 
have  not  had  attention.  One  cluster  of  such  places  lies  between  Judea 
and  the  old-time  district  of  Samaria,  and  includes  the  latter. 

Samaria,  in  the  time  of  Christ,  as  near  as  we  can  find  out,  formed 
the  southern  border  of  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  all  the  way  from  the 
Carmel  hills  on  the  west  to  the  Jordan  depression  on  the  east.  It  was 
limited  on  the  south  by  the  borders  of  Benjamin.  It  suffered  many  a 
battle  in  the  olden  time,  and  between  750  B.C.  and  677  B.C.  the  Assyri- 
an kings  cut  off  all  the  branches  of  the  Jew-Samaritan  houses  and 
grafted  their  own  people  in  the  land.  Thus  the  Assyrian-Samaritan 
nation  grew  up  in  the  Yale  of  Shechem  and  beyond.  To  this  day  the 
natives  appear  to  be  different  in  many  ways  from  the  people  one  meets 
in  Jerusalem  and  Galilee,  and  to  be  of  a  seemingly  superior  race. 
Their  color  is  lighter,  their  hair  is  wavy,  and  they  di*ess  differently. 
The  king  whom  historians  hold  responsible  for  this  shrewd  method  of 
squelching  rebellion  and  taking  j)ossession  of  the  land  of  the  enemy 
was  "  Esar-Haddon,  King  of  Assur."  The  little  handful  which  remains 
claim  to  be  the  descendants  of  those  ancient  colonizers,  and  they  have 
maintained  their  distinctive  government  and  religious  faith.  The  lat- 
ter is  about  as  hard  to  define  as  the  creed  of  the  Druses  on  Mount  Leb- 
anon. The  ancient  Samaritans  "feared  the  Lord,"  and  yet  "they 
served  their  graven  images,"  the  sacred  historian  avers.  They  did 
everything  in  their  power  to  annoy  the  Jews,  and  followed  the  wily 
spirit  of  the  woman  of  Samaria  who,  when  she  met  our  Lord  at  the 
well,  asked,  "  Art  thou  greater  than  our  father  Jacob,  who  gave  us  the 
well  ?  "  Such  vacillation,  of  course,  caused  antagonism  on  the  part  of 
the  Jews,  and  such  hatred  that  Jesus  was  almost  despised  for  speaking 
to  a  Samaritan  woman,  and  his  apostles  wanted  to  call  down  fire  from 
heaven  upon  the  people  of  a  Samaritan  village  who  refused  ordinary 
hospitality  to  their  master. 

The  district  of  Galilee  which  borders  Samaria  on  the  north,  in  the 
time  of  our  Lord,  covered  all  of  that  portion  of  the  land  which  was  ap- 
portioned to  the  tribes  of  Issachar,  Zebulon,  Asher,  and  Naphtali.  It 
was  divided  into  two  sections — Upper  and  Lower  Galilee.  The  latter  in- 
cluded the  Plain  of  Esdraelon  and  its  branches,  which  ran  down  to  the 
Jordan  and  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  and  all  of  that  lovely  hill  country  which 
bounds  the  plain  on  the  north.  El-Gannin,  the  modem  Jenin,  was  the 
border  town  on  the  south,  and  the  Plain  of  Akka  was  the  western  limit. 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  245 

The  general  character  of  the  two  districts  named  is,  in  many  re- 
spects, similar  to  that  of  some  of  our  New  England  and  Middle  States. 
There  are  winding  vales  and  rolling  hills,  springs,  rivulets,  and  rivers 
like  ours.  South  of  them  the  climate  resembles  that  of  our  own  south- 
ern boundaries,  while  in  the  north,  long  ranges  of  snow-capped  moun- 
tains loom  up,  as  grandly  picturesque  as  our  own  New  Hampshii-e 
domes.  Both  of  these  have  their  influence  upon  the  middle-lands  of 
Samaria  and  Lower  Galilee;  so  that  the  most  lovely  days  possible 
come  to  the  husbandmen  of  both  districts,  and  the  richest  fruits  and 
grains  abound,  w^hile  the  sunlit  hills  are,  in  season,  bedecked  by  a 
glorious  growth  of  flowers  and  shaded  by  luxuriant  foliage.  But  now 
the  resemblance  to  our  own  favored  land  dies  out.  No  country  in  the 
world  is  such  a  land  of  ruins  as  Palestine.  Of  course  this  is  not  true 
on  the  scale  prevailing  in  Italy  or  in  Greece  or  in  Egypt,  but  the 
shapeless  masses  which  lie  scattered  over  almost  every  hill-top  bear  a 
fi'ightful  proportion  to  the  cities  and  villages  which  remain  inhabited. 
In  some  quarters  you  may  ride  your  horse  for  miles  without  seeing 
more  of  humanity  than  a  shepherd  boy,  or  hearing  more  of  a  sound 
than  is  awakened  by  the  tiny  landslide  started  by  a  goat  or  sheep  as 
the  frightened  creature  tries  to  escape  from  you  up  some  bare  incline. 
The  ruins  at  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum,  and  at  some  places  along  the 
Nile,  ai*e  comparatively  well  preserved  because  the  death-dealing  scoriae 
and  lava,  or  the  suffocating  sand  which  covered  them  for  centuries  pre- 
served them  from  the  merciless  destructiveness  of  the  elements  and 
from  the  vandal's  hand.  But  here  the  destroyed  architectural  glories 
of  Saracen,  Crusader,  Eoman,  Greek,  Jew,  and  even  of  the  Canaanites 
whom  Joshua  drove  out,  may  be  found  intermixed  in  a  composite  mass 
which  results  in  nothing  but  the  flattest,  driest,  most  time-worn,  and 
expressionless  ruin  possible  to  conceive.  But  then  there  is  yet  some 
life,  some  beauty,  and  some  "  milk  and  honey  "  left,  over  which  most 
sacred  interest  continues  to  hover. 

The  horseback  journey  from  Jerusalem  via  Jericho  to  Shechem 
takes  over  two  days,  and  affords  an  interesting  journey.  The  road  is  a 
very  rough  one,  and  must  have  been  so  when  Joshua  made  his  con- 
quests ;  for  when  his  spies  "  went  up  and  viewed  Ai  .  .  .  they  re- 
turned to  Joshua,  and  said  unto  him.  Let  not  all  the  people  go  up  ;  but 
let  about  two  or  three  thousand  men  go  up  and  smite  Ai ;  and  make 
not  all  the  people  to  labor  thither ;  for  they  are  but  few  "  (Joshua  vii. 


246  IJSr  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

2,  3).  Nevertheless  the  journey  is  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  in  all 
Palestine.  The  start  should  be  made  long"  before  sunrise,  for  it  is  a 
rare  privilege  to  see  the  sun  awaken  such  a  drowsy  country.  When 
the  first  glimmer  of  light  comes  darting  down  from  the  Moabite  hills, 
it  trembles  a  moment  among  the  top  leaves  of  Jordan's  verdant  side- 
screens,  and  then  dances  hither  and  thither  across  the  dewy  plains  of 
Jericho.  The  scene  is  one  which  would  gladden  the  heart  of  any  hus- 
bandman. Toward  the  south  the  view  is  interrupted  by  a  great  fog, 
the  rosy  high  lights  of  which  hover  over  the  Dead  Sea.  Its  left  wing 
hangs  drooping  over  the  bosom  of  the  Jordan  for  a  mile  or  two.  The 
Fountain  of  Elisha  looks  almost  black  at  that  early  hour,  and  the  little 
stream  scarcely  seems  awake. 

Now  we  turn  westward.  A  short  race  with  the  sunbeams  across  the 
plain  brings  us  squarely  in  front  of  Mount  Quarantania,  into  whose 
yawning  caves  the  early  light  affords  the  best  view  of  all  the  day,  for 
then  only  can  the  genial  rays  creep  into  them.  For  an  hour  before  sun- 
rise everything  looks  dismal  enough  ;  but  when  the  sun  rises,  the  scene 
grows  more  beautiful  every  foot  of  the  way.  "Wlien  one  of  the  highest 
points  is  gained,  a  vast  prospect  is  presented,  that  reaches  from  the 
great  sea  on  the  west,  with  the  hills  of  Benjamin,  overtopped  by  those 
of  Gilead  and  Moab  (the  Jordan  between  them),  on  the  east.  The  roll- 
ing battle-fields  of  Gibeon  lie  in  full  view.  Every  rod  of  ground  rex^re- 
sents  a  page  in  Israelitish  history.  In  less  than  two  hours  a  near  ap- 
proach to  Scopus  hill — the  supposed  site  of  Mizpeh — is  made. 

The  Bible  does  not  define  the  location  of  Mizpeh  so  exactly  as  it 
does  that  of  Shiloh.  Nevertheless  it  is  generally  agreed  that  the  long 
ridge  called  Scopus,  which  continues  northward  from  the  Mount  of 
Olives,  is  the  spot  where  Samuel  took  the  oath  of  allegiance  from  the 
wandering  people,  and  that  not  far  from  there  he  set  up  the  stone  of 
Ebenezer.  You  can  go  from  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  to  the  top  of 
Scopus  in  less  than  an  hour.  It  is  not  a  picturesque  excursion  ;  there- 
fore but  few  make  it.  It  well  repays  the  trouble,  however,  for  it  not 
only  affords  a  magnificent  view  of  Jerusalem  and  its  surroundings,  but 
gives  one  of  the  best  typical  views  of  the  land  there  is  to  be  had.  On 
all  sides  are  the  indisputable  evidences  of  the  populousness  of  a  former 
age.  The  main  highway  winding  up  the  hill  was  once  a  splendid 
specimen  of  Boman  road  engineering.  But  as  the  fallen  walls  which 
lined  it  were  time  and  again  restored  somewhat  to  shape,  century  after 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA. 


247 


century,  the  great  stones  which  composed  them  were  at  each  recon- 
struction carried  closer  and  closer  to  each  other,  until,  now,  but  a  nar- 
row bridle-path  is  there.  Some  attempt  is  made  here  and  there  to  de- 
fine property  lines  or  to  separate  the  olive-groves  by  other  walls.  If 
your  eyes  are  practised  you 
may  also  discover,  in  more 
or  less  ruin,  the  peasant's 
cottag-e,  the  vineyard-tower, 
the  oil-press,  the  wine-vat, 
the  sheep-fold,  water -tanks 
and  reservoirs,  crumbling- 
terraces  and  deserted  vil- 
lages, all  presenting  an  as- 
pect of  desolation,  when  sep- 
arated from  the  view  of  Jeru- 
salem, which  is  as  pitiable  as 
any  view  along  the  Nile  or 
in  the  Desert  of  the  Wander- 
ing. But  how  marvellous  is 
the  prospect  from  the  hill  of 
Scopus.  Better  than  from 
any  other  point,  one  can  see 
how  much  higher  is  the  hill 

on  which  the  Holy  city  is  situated  than  any  of  the  surrounding  heights. 
The  descent  of  the  valley  of  the  Kidron  and  its  depression  appear 
much  greater  than  when  you  are  standing  near  it.  The  roofs  of  the 
houses  of  Siloam  look  like  dice,  and  the  olive-trees  of  Olivet  appear  as 
black  and  flat  as  dominoes.  Then  there  are  the  tall  minarets,  the  broad 
domes,  and  the  old  gray  walls  of  the  city  of  David,  with  all  of  which  we 
are  familiar.  A  few  minutes  after  the  feet  are  turned  descending  to- 
ward Shiloh  the  long  mountain  ridge,  like  a  curtain,  hides  the  histori- 
cal theatre  from  view,  and  the  aspect  presented  by  nature  is  desolate 
enough.  The  final  battle  with  the  Philistines  occurred  thereabouts. 
Samuel  rode  over  the  country  annually  when  making  his  "  circuit  "  as 
"  Judge  of  Israel,"  and  visited  Mizpeh,  Gilgal,  and  Bethel  in  turn,  al- 
though his  home  was  in  Ramah,  where  he  built  an  altar. 

Bound  for  a  special  place,  however,  we  must  avoid  detail  and  hurry 
on  to  Bethel,  and  east  of  Bethel  to  Ai.    As  the  sun  journeys  on,  the  air 


Scopus  from  the   Mount  of  Olives, 


248 


IN  8CMIPTUEE  LANDS. 


grows  hot,  and  the  climb  be- 
comes irksome.  The  Bethel  of 
to-day  does  not  inspire  very 
Jacob-like  dreams.  The 
prophecy  that  "Bethel  shall 
come  to  naught  "  has  been  ful- 
ly realized.  Part  of  an  old 
pool  forms  the  usual  camping- 
ground  of  the  traveller.  The 
people  of  the  modem  village 
are  cleanly  and  hospitable. 
The  city  wall  is  constructed  of 
immensely  tall  plants  of  the 
prickly  pear.  They  are  easier  to  keep  in  order  than  the  walls  of  stone, 
though  stones  and  "pillars  of  stone"  undoubtedly  abound  in  every 
field  about  Bethel.  Jerusalem  and  "  the  place  of  Jacob's  dream  "  pre- 
sent the  points  of  interest  in  the  outlook  toward  the  south.  The  Dead 
Sea  and  the  Jordan  may  again  be  seen  south  and  east ;  but  Ai  is  no 
more  to  be  seen.  Its  site  "  is  on  the  east  side  of  Bethel,"  not  so  very 
far  from  Abraham's  camping-ground.  The  story  of  its  assault  and  capt- 
ure is  recorded  with  such  detail  as  to  make  it  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing events  in  all  the  Jewish  narrative. 

It  seems  as  if  one  of  those  great  wide-spreading  oaks  which  stand 
to-day  on  the  sides  of  the  hills 
near  Bethel  must  be  the  one 
upon  which  the  King  of  Ai 
was  hanged,  and  that  any 
"great  heap  of  stones,"  so 
numerous  close  by,  may  cover 
the  kingly  carcass.  There 
still  is  the  rocky  glen  where 
the  ambush  lay;  there  the 
barren  ridge  where  Joshua 
and  his  attendants  took  up 
their  position,  north  of  the 
city;  there  the  deep  valley 
between  them,  where  he  first 
attracted  the  attention  of  Ai ; 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA. 


249 


there  the  wild  ravine  through  which  they  fled  with  Ai  after  them,  down 
toward  Jericho.  But  it  is  all  desolation  and  ruin  now,  and  the  country 
is  not  worth  the  attention  of  the  modern  invader. 

The  neighboring"  highways  are  about  the  roughest  over  which  any- 
one travelling  in  Palestine  ever  rode  a  horse.  Indeed,  sometimes  the 
traveller  is  obliged  to  dismount  to  help  and  encourage  his  poor,  bewil- 
dered horse  to  follow  him.  The  rougher  climbs  over,  however,  the  re- 
mainder of  the  journey  to  Shechem  is  one  of  the  most  varied  and  en- 
joyable in  all  the  land.  Instead  of  the  small,  compressed,  ground- 
do^\'n  sort  of  appearance  which  generally  pervades  Southern  Palestine, 
every  prospect  pleases.  Thriving  olive-groves,  rich  grain-fields,  myri- 
ads of  gaudy  flowers,  hills  cov- 
ered with  growing  crops,  and  the 
long  inclines,  terraced  now  with 
stone  walls,  now  by  the  natural 
formation  of  the  rock,  vary  the 
prospect.  Farmers  are  seen 
ploughing,  the  women  are  pluck- 
ing the  tares  from  the  wheat,  and 
the  children  are  helping.  As- 
cending and  descending,  every 
foot  of  the  way  shows  the  care 
and  attention  of  an  industrious 
people.  Perhaps  it  is  the  fresher 
air  that  gives  them  more  vigor 

than  have  those  who  inhabit  the  white  chalk-hills  and  the  almost  bare 
valleys  of  the  south  coimtry.  Even  the  flowers  look  fresher,  newer, 
and  happier.  Every  step  taken  by  the  horses  starts  a  gossipy  wagging 
of  heads  and  a  widening  of  eyes  among  the  daisies  which  line  the  nar- 
row roadway.  At  the  right,  spreading  eastward  for  nearly  a  mile  and 
a  half,  and  from  north  to  south  for  seven  miles  or  more,  is  a  glorious 
valley,  broken  up  into  sections  of  green  and  gold  and  pink,  with  not 
a  line  of  fence  or  wall  to  disturb  it,  and  only  the  groves  of  olives,  the 
trunks  of  which,  twisted  and  braided  together,  relieve  the  uniformity  of 
the  expanse.  Away  over  on  its  eastern  side  is  a  line  of  hills,  as  dark  as 
a  row  of  olive-trees.  On  the  left  Gerizim  and  Ebal  stand  out  majesti- 
cally against  the  blue  sky,  with  the  wide  vale  between  them,  in  the 
midst  of  which  lies  Shechem.     Then,  far  in  the  northwest,  rising  like  a 


250  11^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

great  white  screen,  as  though  outstretched  for  the  whole  grand  evening 
spectacle  to  be  projected  upon  it,  is  snowy  Mount  Hermon.  At  Bethel 
the  good  people  sent  huge  bouquets  of  lovely  pink  roses  to  our  tents. 

In  the  twenty-first  chapter  of  Judges,  a  Jewish  city  is  located  with 
unusual  exactitude.  "  On  the  north  side  of  Bethel,  on  the  east  of  the 
highway  that  goeth  up  from  Bethel  to  Shechem,  and  on  the  south  of 
Lebonah."  The  Bible  name  of  that  city  is  Shiloh.  The  modern  Arab 
calls  it  Seilun.  It  was  the  chief  resort  of  the  Israelites  for  a  long  time 
before  the  gates  of  Jerusalem  were  opened  to  them.  No  health-giving 
spa  drew  the  people  there  ;  no  cooling  breezes  of  the  sea  cajoled ;  the 
air  which  came  from  the  neighboring  hills  was  not  so  cool  as  that 
of  Lebanon ;  neither  did  close  proximity  to  the  Jordan  attract  the  hosts 
who  came  to  Shiloh.  Nevertheless,  every  year,  a  great  feast  was  held 
there,  when  the  young  women  danced  and  won  the  hearts  of  the  swains 
who  came  from  the  neighboring  tribes. 

A  number  of  other  things  made  Shiloh  a  centre  of  interest.  After 
the  battle  of  Ai,  Joshua  moved  the  Tabernacle  from  Gilgal  to  Shiloh, 
and  made  it  his  headquarters  until  his  death ;  at  Shiloh  the  division 
of  the  land  took  place  ;  Eli  lived  at  Shiloh  ;  Samuel  spent  his  boyhood 
there,  and  was  "  established  to  be  a  prophet  of  the  Lord  "  at  Shiloh. 
Thus  Shiloh  became  the  place  of  the  annual  feasts,  and  was  a  resort 
well  known  to  all  the  tribes  of  Israel. 

Let  us  try  to  understand  a  little  concerning  that  old-time  resort  of 
the  Israelites.  To  find  it,  we  need  only  to  follow  the  directions  given 
in  the  most  ancient  guide-book.  The  route  from  Bethel  is  exceedingly 
rough.  You  are  obliged  to  dismount  and  help  your  horse  over  the 
rocks.  It  is  cruel  to  ride.  The  struggle  over  the  black  basaltic  rocks 
is  an  anxious  one.  When  that  is  over,  the  large  olive-orchards,  the 
rich  grain-fields,  and  the  millions  of  wild  flowers  which  come  into  view, 
compensate  for  the  compulsory  work  you  have  done.  More  than  these, 
as  the  journey  is  proceeded  with,  the  scenery  grows  more  sublime. 
The  mountains  rise  higher,  come  more  closely  to  each  other  and  nar- 
row the  valleys ;  then,  for  a  time  they  are  lower  and  farther  apart,  and 
the  widening  valleys  present  a  picturesque  and  busy  scene.  The 
brown-armed  peasants  are  ploughing ;  the  girls,  clad  in  gay  attire,  are 
pulling  tares  from  the  grain,  and  children,  laughing  merrily,  are  help- 
ing them.  Luxurious  vineyards  bedeck  the  terraced  hills.  Frequently 
the  tinkling  of  a  bell  attracts  attention  to  the  pathways  which  wind 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  251 

around  the  cliifs  on  either  side,  when  a  tall  Bedouin,  with  a  striped 
abba  and  a  long  fowling-piece  slung  across  his  shoulders,  is  discovered 
guiding  his  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats ;  thence  comes  the  familiar 
sound.  A  long  caravan  of  camels  and  donkeys  laden  with  American 
kerosene  may  often  be  seen  trailing  slowly  and  demurely  along  the 
narrow,  zigzag  mountain-paths.  It  is  one  of  the  busiest  neighborhoods 
in  Palestine.     The  cultivated  fields  line  both  sides  of  the  "  highway  " — 


At  Shiloh. 


only  a  narrow  bridle-path — until  the  ruins  of  the  old,  crushed  city  are 
made  out.  What  remains  of  Shiloh  is  located  on  a  knoll  a  little  higher 
than  its  neighbors.  As  soon  as  this  is  reached,  the  light  seems  to  go 
out  of  the  picture,  for  you  so  quickly  climb  up  from  the  delightful  to 
the  desolate.  When  you  ascend  one  of  our  own  Appalachians,  as  you 
emerge  suddenly  from  the  clotted,  stunted  tree-line,  you  meet  the  bare 
rocks,  and  although  the  transition  is  sudden  and  great,  only  the  one 
incline  is  visible.  But  at  Shiloh  there  are  many  hills  adjoining,  which, 
with  the  valleys  between  them,  are  stony,  desolate,  and  forbidding, 
while  close  at  hand  are  only  the  scattered  remains  of  the  city  of  Samuel 


252  A¥  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

and  the  ruins  of  a  more  modern  town.  Some  walls  of  an  old  castle  are 
standing".  They  are  quite  four  feet  thick.  Several  sturdy  buttresses 
brace  them  up ;  broken  columns,  capitals,  and  here  and  there  a  door- 
way, tell  how  Shiloh  was  built,  strongly,  to  bear  the  brunt  of  battle  ; 
but  they  also  tell  what  the  Almighty  "  did  to  it  for  the  wickedness  of 
.  .  .  Israel."  At  the  southern  base  of  the  hill  is  a  low,  square  build- 
ing which  the  Bedouins  call  a  mosque.  In  it,  now,  the  cattle  gather 
to  escape  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun  when  the  shade  of  the  splendid  old 
terebinth  which  stands  close  by  cannot  accommodate  all.  The  camera 
has  done  its  best  with  such  rough  material,  to  secure  a  representative 
view  of  Shiloh.  Part  of  the  walls  of  the  ancient  city  are  in  the  fore- 
ground, while  on  the  side  of  a  second  hill,  beyond,  are  the  ruins  of  the 
old  building  whose  thick  walls  have  been  alluded  to.  The  prospect  is 
not  a  familiar  one ;  and  yet  almost  every  Christian  child  on  the  face  of 
the  earth  is  told  the  story  of  the  youth  who  became  the  great  prophet  of 
Shiloh,  before  it  can  lisp  its  own  name.  Probably  Hophni  and  Phineas, 
the  renegade  sons  of  Eli,  descended  this  very  pictured  hill,  when,  bear- 
ing the  sacred  ark  between  them,  they  went  forth  to  the  fatal  battle  of 
Ebenezer,  where  they  lost  their  lives,  and  where  the  Ark  of  God  was 
taken.  Not  very  far  away  "  Eli  sat  upon  a  seat  by  the  wayside  watch- 
ing, for  his  heart  trembled  for  the  Ark  of  God  " — it  may  have  been  very 
near  this  "  that  he  fell  from  off  the  seat  backward  by  the  side  of  the 
gate,  and  his  neck  brake  and  he  died."  Down  in  the  glen,  at  the  right, 
two  hundred  sons  of  Benjamin,  counselled  by  the  elders  of  the  congre- 
gation, laid  in  wait  in  the  vineyard  until  the  daughters  of  Shiloh  came 
out  to  dance  in  the  dances  at  the  feast ;  then  rising  suddenly,  and,  still 
following  the  license  of  the  elders,  the  determined  bachelors  proceeded 
to  "  catch  every  man  his  wife  of  the  daughters  of  Shiloh  .  .  .  and 
returned  unto  their  inheritance."  But  "  in  those  days  there  was  no 
king  in  Israel ;  every  man  did  that  which  was  right  in  his  own  eyes." 

Matters  did  not  move  on  so  prosperously  at  Shiloh,  however.  There 
was  the  usual  human  variety  of  conscience  in  Israel ;  so  that  "  that 
which  was  right  in  his  own  eyes  "  to  one,  did  not  seem  altogether  the 
coiTect  thing  to  his  neighbor.  Consequently,  on  all  sides,  the  opinion 
grew  that  some  of  the  neighboring  nations  were  managed  better.  A 
loud  and  persistent  clamor  arose  for  Reform.  The  Israelites  had  good 
reason  to  understand  the  one-man  power,  for  they  had  long  been  in 
the  grip  of  the  Philistines,  and  it  was  tightened  every  year.     Among 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  253 

other  sore  grievances  forced  upon  them  was  the  necessity  of  carrying- 
their  ploughs  and  other  farming  implements  to  the  Philistine  black- 
smiths for  repairs,  because  no  Israelite  was  allowed  to  swell  the  bellows 
or  SAving-  the  sledge  lest  he  forge  spears  and  armor,  to  say  nothing  of 
making  iron  chariots  such  as  some  of  the  invaders  had.  Wliile  this 
caused  every  warlike  young  patriot  of  Israel  to  blush  and  bum  with 
rage,  the  hearts  of  the  older  and  more  serious  ones  were  broken  by  see- 
ing the  masses  forsake  the  God  of  Egypt — the  God  of  Sinai — the  God 
of  the  wilderness  of  Kadesh — the  God  of  Eli,  for  the  degrading  worship 
of  Baal  and  Ashtaroth.  For  twenty  years  after  the  ark  was  taken,  no 
priest  offered  sacrifice  at  the  ark,  and  but  few  were  reverent  enough  to 
visit  it  while  it  rested  quietly  at  Kirjath-jearim.  The  only  ray  of  sun- 
shine in  all  this  moral  and  physical  darkness  was  the  devout  Samuel. 
It  was  he  who  kept  alive  what  little  grace  there  was  left.  His  work 
was  a  personal  one  for  a  time,  for  he  did  not  dare  at  first  to  call  a  pub- 
lic assemblage.  But  when  the  Philistines  found  that  it  was  an  injury 
to  them  and  to  their  gods  to  hold  the  stolen  ark,  they  concluded  to  re- 
store it,  and  did  indeed  with  great  pomp  send  commissioners  with  it 
to  Beth-shemesh.  Samuel,  with  keen  insight,  understood  their  fear 
and  grew  more  bold.  He  called  the  famous  assemblage  of  Mizpeh ; 
prayed  for  the  jDeople  ;  sacrificed  a  lamb  at  the  altar  "  wholly  unto  the 
Lord  "  .  .  .  "  and  the  Lord  heard  him."  The  battle  of  Mizpeh  fol- 
lowed, the  Philistines  were  defeated,  and  so  subdued  that  no  more 
trouble  came  from  that  quarter  while  Samuel  lived. 

Coming  up  from  Shiloh  you  soon  cross  the  line  which  separates 
Judea  from  Samaria.  After  a  good,  invigorating  climb  along  the  shoul- 
der of  Mount  Gerizim,  a  descending  bridle-path  appears  which  leads 
down  to  the  most  sacred  spot  in  all  the  Yale  of  Shechem— to  Jacob's 
Well.  You  will  not  always  feel  satisfied  with  the  "  sacred  spots  "  in- 
dicated by  the  guide-books,  nor  will  your  views  always  accord  with  the 
persuasive  associations  draped  around  possible  sites  by  the  simpering 
monk  who  serves  as  your  guide.  But  here  is  a  site  which  seems  to 
satisfy  the  desire  to  stand  very  near  to  some  place  hallowed  by  the 
sacred  presence  of  our  Saviour.  It  is  Jacob's  Well.  Not  very  far  away, 
surely,  must  be  the  very  spot  where  He  held  that  marvellous  conversa- 
tion with  the  Samaritan  woman.  Beneath  one  of  the  ruined  arches  of 
the  church  which  once  stood  here,  some  feet  below  the  surface  and 
reached  by  a  few  rude  steps,  is  the  mouth  of  the  well.    The  sides  of 


254 


Z2V  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


the  well  are  splendidly  walled  as  far  as  one  can  see,  and  at  the  depth  of 
sixty  or  seventy  feet  you  can  see  your  face  reflected  in  the  water.  The 
original  depth  was  over  a  hundred  feet,  and  the  well  is  seven  and  a  half 
feet  in  diameter.     A  person  not  acquainted  with  the  oriental  character 

might  wonder  why  so  much 
expense  of  time  and  money 
was  undertaken  in  order  to 
provide  such  a  well,  when 
a  grand  abundance  of  water 
is  supplied  to  the  neighbor- 
ing valley  by  Mountains 
Ebal  and  Gerizim.  Ques- 
tion a  native  on  the  subject, 
and  he  will  answer  that  "  it 
was  the  custom  of  the  coun- 
try," but"  the  real  truth  is 
it  was  done  as  a  safeguard 
against  marauders.  It  is 
also  true  that  the  custom  of 
sinking  wells  on  an  estate 
began  as  far  back  as  the 
time  of  Abraham  and  Isaac, 
if  not  further,  and  they  were  guarded  with  the  most  jealous  care.  In 
our  land  the  generous  husbandman  says  to  the  wayfarer,  "  Take  as  much 
of  my  fruit  as  you  can  eat,  but  do  not  break  my  trees."  The  patriarchal 
husbandman  went  deeper,  and  said  to  his  nomadic  kinsmen,  "  Pasture 
your  flocks  on  my  hills  and  plains,  but  let  my  wells  alone."  His  de- 
scendants are  too  indolent  to  follow  his  example  by  digging  more 
wells,  but  they  guard  their  water-supply  with  the  same  jealous  care 
their  fathers  did.  My  old  Samaritan  guide,  Jacob-es-Shellaby,  sat  by 
the  old  broken  arch  which  covers  the  well  while  the  photograph  was 
made,  and  then  led  me  down  to  the  great  flat  stone  which  lies  over 
the  mouth  of  the  well.  Through  a  circular  hole  in  the  stone  the  na- 
tives pass  down  their  skin  vessels  and  bring  up  the  water,  which  flows 
alike  from  the  deeply  sunken  arteries  of  the  Mount  of  Cursing — Ebal — 
across  the  valley — and  from  the  Mount  of  Blessing — Gerizim — near  to 
the  base  of  which  it  is.  It  has  been  a  blessing  to  the  land  for  many  a 
long  century.     The  Jew,  the  Samaritan,  the  Christian,  and  the  Moham- 


Jacob's  WelL 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  255 

medan  alike  reverence  it,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  find  them 
praying"  together  near  at  hand — one  with  his  face  turned  religiously 
toward  Gerizim,  another  as  punctiliously  facing  the  east ;  a  third  ges- 
ticulating in  the  direction  of  the  vale  between  the  mountains ;  while  the 
fourth  is  bowed  with  his  face  meekly  turned  toward  the  scattered  ruins 
of  the  church  which  the  crusaders  erected  over  the  sacred  site.  Many 
changes  have  taken  place  in  the  historical  valley  since  Jacob  superin- 
tended the  construction  of  the  noted  public  work  which  bears  his  name 
— many  since  his  divine  descendant  argued  his  own  case  with  the  de- 
spised and  wily  Samaritans ;  but  nature  has  not  changed  very  much. 
The  exuberant  stream  comes  tumbling  and  singing  down  the  fertile 
valley  and  keejDS  going  its  tender  strains  of  cheery  music,  just  as  it  did 
when  the  dazed  woman  of  Samaria  heard  the  voice  of  Jesus  say,  "  Who- 
soever drinketh  of  this  water  shall  thirst  again."  The  mountains  are 
there  just  as  Jacob,  Joseph,  Joshua,  and  Jesus  saw  them — Ebal  north- 
ward with  its  high  terraces  of  prickly  pear ;  on  the  south  Gerizim  rises 
from  its  rich  grain-fields  and  groves  of  walnut  and  sycamore.  The 
same  soft  air  pervades  the  Vale  of  Shechem  which  caught  the  pro- 
X)hetic  warnings  of  Jesus  as  they  fell  from  his  lips  and  started  an 
evolution  which  has  gone  on  and  on  ever  since  "  from  the  rivers  unto 
the  ends  of  the  earth,"  as  ceaselessly  as  the  waves  of  the  sea. 

About  an  eighth  of  a  mile  across  the  valley  from  Jacob's  Well,  and 
near  the  base  of  Mount  Ebal,  is  the  traditional  tomb  of  Joseph.  It  is 
marked  by  a  rude  enclosure  twenty  feet  square  and  twelve  feet  high. 
The  interior  of  the  structure  is  divided  into  two  sections,  of  which  the 
one  to  the  south  is  the  tomb.  It  is  about  six  feet  long  and  four  feet 
high.  It  resembles  the  common  tombs  erected  in  memory  of  the  Mos- 
lem saints  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  No  more  lovely  spot  could  have 
been  chosen  for  the  honored  resting-place  of  the  beloved  dead  of  any 
nation.  I  do  not  remember  any  more  enchanting  walk  in  Palestine 
than  the  descent  from  Shechem,  along  the  valley,  to  where  it  begins  to 
widen,  and  then  northward  to  Joseph's  sepulchre.  Early  morning  af- 
fords the  best  time  to  make  the  visit.  If  you  go  in  time  to  greet  the 
sun  as  he  makes  his  first  appearance  over  the  hills  of  Ephraim,  you 
will  have  a  rare  sight.  Each  particular  dew-drop  is  transformed  into  an 
indi\ddual  jewel  and  sparkles  with  the  glories  of  the  prism.  The  line 
of  splendor  formed  by  them  widens  with  the  ascending  orb,  and  the 
shadow  as  gradually  sinks  out  of  the  picture.     The  unnumbered  songs- 


256 


IN  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 


ters,  startled  from  their  dewy  nests,  rise  and  mix  their  matin-songs  with 
the  rosy  glow  which  melts  away  their  drowsiness  and  warms  them  into 
life.  The  rugged  peaks  of  Moab  puncture  the  hanging  mist,  catch 
their  share  of  color,  and  look  like  islands  of  fire  in  a  billowy  sea.  Foot 
by  foot  the  broad  expanse  becomes  a  lake  of  glory.     The  gnawings  and 


scranchings  of  time  have  not  done  so  much  to  keep  up  appearances,, 
but  their  relentless  treatment  of  the  rocky  face  of  Ebal  supplies  a  fine 
contrast  with  the  highly  cultivated  fields  of  the  valley  and  with  the 
splendid  olive-groves.  Three  large  springs  in  this  delightful  vale  unite 
in  forming  the  broad  stream  already  alluded  to,  and  send  more  water 
Jordan-ward  than  all  the  sources  as  far  down  as  Hebron  do,  combined. 
The  deep-cut,  solemn  pools  of  Solomon  have  never  ceased  to  do  good 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA. 


257 


service,  but  there  is  none  of  the  life  about  them  which  is  carried  along* 
wherever  it  goes  by  such  a  merry,  bounding  stream  as  the  one  which 
courses  the  vale  of  Shechem. 
Jacob,  with  his  usual 
shrewdness,  knowing'  well  the 
value  of  such  a  tract  of  land 
by  water  blest,  made  the  best 
bargain  he  could  for  it  with 
Hamor,  the  father  of  She- 
chem, and  then  hastened  to 
secure  it  to  his  son  Joseph 
lest  an  added  hundred  pieces 
of  silver  should  temi)t  him 
to  part  with  it.  Joseph,  too, 
held  a  warm  affection  for  it 
and  made  request  that  his 
body  should  be  buried  there. 
Many  curious  scenes  are  en- 
acted about  this  tomb.  On  the  roof,  while  a  venerable  Arab,  with  face 
turned  toward  Mecca,  may  be  seen  praying"  with  fervor  almost  border- 
ing upon  fury,  a  gray-bearded  son  of  Israel,  on  bended  knee,  instructs  a 
little  modem  Joseph  in  the  history  of  his  ancient  namesake.  There 
seems  to  be  a  fascination  about  the  spot  to  all  sorts '.  of  people.  The 
sun  creeps  well  upward  before  you  are.  willing"  to  leave  the  place  again. 
Only  a  little  of  the  dew  remains  when  you  return,  and  the  birds  seem  to 
have  all  disappeared  in  the  mountains  for  food.  Now  you  may  see 
Shechem  in  a  fine  light.  For  the  best  view,  Shechem  should  be 
approached  from  the  south,  and  just  at  the  close  of  day.  Then  the 
long,  wide  shadows  of  Mount  Gerizim,  projected  upon  the  plain,  are 
Avelcomed  by  the  husbandman  who  has  been  toiling  all  day  under  the 
cloudless  sky.  The  first  lowering  of  the  temperature  is  the  signal  for 
the  flocks  to  break  away  from  their  flower-besprinkled  pasture  and  to 
turn  themselves  toward  their  folds ;  the  men  and  the  women,  often 
laden  with  some  product  of  the  field,  also  turn  homeward.  A  great  fin- 
ger seems  to  have  been  placed  across  the  lips  of  Nature,  so  still  and  so 
quiet  all  becomes  with  the  departure  of  the  sun  and  the  advance  of  the 
twilight.  It  must  have  been  at  that  same  hour  when  "  all  the  congre- 
gation of  Israel,  with  the  women  and  the  little  ones,  and  the  strangers 
17 


25S 


US'  SGBIPTUME  LANDS. 


lif^:^^ 


that  were  conversant  among* 
them,"  congregated,  "half 
of  them  over  against  Mount 
Gerizim,  and  half  of  them 
over  against  Mount  Ebal," 
while  Joshua  read  all  the 
words  of  the  law,  the  bless- 
ings and  the  cursings.  And 
it  must  have  been  so  silent, 
too,  when  a  quarter  of  a 
century  after  this  a  solemn 
renewal  of  the  covenant 
took  place,  and  Joshua  "  set 
them  a  statute  and  an  ordi- 
nance in  Shechem." 
It  is  a  strange  experience  to  pass  through  the  lovely  vale  of  She- 
chem and,  gazing  at  Ebal  on  the  right  and  at  Gerizim  on  the  left,  to 
think  of  how  many  noted  people  journeyed  likewise  long  before  Christ 
came.  The  list  of  sojourners  and  travellers  includes  Abraham,  Jacob, 
Simeon,  Levi,  Joseph  (buried  here),  Joshua,  Abimelech,  and  Rehoboam. 
Jesus  was  a  visitor  here,  and  Shechem  was  the  birthplace  of  Justin 
Martjrr.  The  Eoman  sceptre,  the  Christian  cross,  and  the  crescent  of 
Islam  have  all  held  sway  in  Shechem.  The  garrison  whose  bugle 
awakens  the  echoes  of  Ebal  and  Gerizim  to-day  recalls  memories  of 
blessing  and  cursing,  and  with  American-made  rifles,  though  under 
command  of  Ottoman  ofiicers,  keeps  peace  among  the  turbulent  people. 
Shechem  is  a  cosmopolitan  place,  and  some  of  her  people  represent  the 
oldest  races.  For  example,  about  all  the  Samaritans  that  are  left  con- 
gregate there.  Within  the  whitewashed  walls  of  their  tiny  s3rnagogue 
is  the  inscribed  "  original "  of  their  Pentateuch.  This  document  varies 
in  many  particulars  from  the  Pentateuch  of  the  Jews,  and  is  under 
careful  watch.  They  hold  that  it  was  written  by  Abishua,  the  son  of 
Phineas,  the  son  of  Eleazar,  the  son  of  Aaron.  The  ofliciating  priest  is 
a  young  man  who  claims  to  be  a  direct  descendant  of  Aaron.  After  the 
proper  persuasion  of  backsheesh,  he  consented  to  exhibit  the  antique 
document  and  to  stand  beside  it  in  the  synagogue  court  while  its 
photograph  was  made.  Its  great  silver  case  and  the  rods  of  the  scroll 
make  it  very  heavy,  so  that  an  assistant  was  required  to  help  the  priest 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA. 


259 


carry  it.  After  placing-  it  upon  a  chair,  they  very  carefully  unfolded 
the  embroidered  scarf  of  crimson  satin  which  covered  it,  and  thus  dis- 
X^layed  the  engraved  silver  case.  In  time  the  doors  of  this  were  thrown 
open,  and  the  precious  document  was  made  visible.  It  was  rolled  like 
a  Jewish  scroll  upon  two  metal  rods  that  are  much  longer  than  the 
scroll.  These  rods  jDrotrude  at  each  end  for  the  protection  of  the 
parchment.  The  letters  are  Samaritan,  but  they  are  written  in  the  He- 
brew language.  The  engraved  scenes  upon  the  case  are  said  to  repre- 
sent the  ground  plan  of  the  Tabernacle.  In  their  ceremonies  they  fol- 
low the  injunctions  of  Exodus  xxviii.  and  Leviticus  viii.  Once  a  year 
the  Samaritans  hold  their  religious  feasts  upon  the  summit  of  Mount 
Gerizim,  "  the  mountain  of  blessing."  It  is  their  Moriah.  As  we 
move  up  the  highway  now,  we  may  see  above  the  tapering  minarets 
and  the  swelling  domes,  the  golden  crescent  sparkling  in  the  sunlight. 
Further  on,  rising  from  a  great  mass  of  olive-trees,  is  the  picturesque 
old  tower  half  covered  by  clinging  vines,  called  "  Jacob's  Tower."  It  is 
said  to  have  been  the  home  of  the  patriarch  when  he  sent  Joseph  over 
to  Dothan  to  look  af- 
ter his  brethren.  The 
nearer  you  approach 
it  the  higher  it  seems 
to  reach  up  the  side 
of  Mount  Gerizim, 
near  to  which  it 
stands,  and  the  great 
trees  are  dwarfed  by 
it.  Within  a  short 
distance  is  the  "  sta- 
tion "  used  by  the 
dragomen  for  the  so- 
journer. Lepers  con- 
gregate there  and 
make  one  hide  be- 
neath the  shadows  of 
the  olive  -  groves  to 
escape  the  repulsive 
creatures. 

The    present  in-  The  Samahtan  Pentateuch. 


Ilf  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

habitants  of  Shechem  devote  a  great  deal  of  time  to  their  "relig- 
ion." It  is  the  most  frequent  topic  of  conversation,  and  even  in 
the  coarse  talk  of  those  who,  in  their  hearts,  care  very  little  about  it 
there  is  a  religious  tone  which  is  quite  noticeable.  If  you  ask  a  man 
if  he  will  go  to  the  mosque  after  dinner  or  complete  a  bargain  for 
a  rug,  his  answer  always  is  "  inshallah  " — God  willing.  A  blessing 
comes  with  every  salutation  and  a  curse  follows  every  Christian,  for  it 
must  not  be  understood  that  religion  in  this  valley  is  by  any  manner 
of  means  synonymous  with  morality.  It  is  not.  This  "  very  religious  " 
people,  however,  influences  a  great  many  religious  gatherings  in  She- 
chem, and  you  may  often  see  great  multitudes  there  which  give  a  holi- 
day appearance  to  the  town.  They  are  often  in  a  tumult.  One  experi- 
ence with  an  Arab  crowd  whose  words  you  cannot  understand,  and  whose 
gestures  and  imprecations  are  a  riddle  to  you,  is  enough  to  cause  you 
to  avoid  them  ever  after.  It  is  interesting  and  picturesque,  however, 
to  see  such  an  assemblage  form  on  a  "  religious  day."  The  people  come 
in  from  the  neighborhood  in  companies.  A  beautiful  scene  is  presented 
by  the  forms  of  the  young  and  the  old  dressed  in  every  variety  of  gay 
clothing,  moving  along  without  much  apparent  purpose  through  the 
shade  of  the  splendid  trees.  Many  stop  at  the  wells  and  quench  their 
thirst,  while  others  lave  in  the  stream  or  rest  upon  the  rocks  and  grass. 
Then  the  scattered  groups  of  the  highway  thicken  gradually  into  a 
numerous  throng  and  press  onward  to  some  designated  place.  As  the 
multitude  increases  the  excitement  grows,  and  animated  conversation 
often  leads  to  a  stoppage  in  the  ranks,  while  in  all  directions  heated  de- 
bates go  on.  At  last  a  low  building,  flat-roofed,  with  a  great  open  si^ace 
near  it,  is  reached  and  the  people  halt.  On  the  house-top,  wearing  a 
green  turban,  stands  the  "  holy  man."  He  works  his  audience  up  to  a. 
frenzied  condition  and  then  sends  them  away,  ready  for  any  violence 
their  fanaticism  may  lead  them  to.  Shechem  is  not  a  pleasant  place 
for  Christians. 

The  men,  as  a  rule,  are  fine-looking,  pleasant  in  manners,  and  supe- 
rior to  the  average  Syrian.  The  women  are  lighter  in  color  than  their 
sisters  in  Bethlehem  and  Jerusalem,  and  seem  to  be  of  a  very  different 
race.  Their  hair  is  black  and  wavy,  and  their  dress  is  unlike  that  of 
the  Mohammedans  and  Jews.  They  seem  to  be  happy,  and  are  devoted 
to  their  creed.  Their  strange  little  family  numbers  less  than  two  hun- 
dred.   The  situation  of  Shechem  is  delightful.     The  whole  vale,  running 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA. 


261 


east  and  west,  is  alive  with  gushing  cascades  and  bounding  streams, 
fed  partly  by  the  twin  mountains  Ebal,  on  the  north,  and  Gerizim,  on 
the  south.  Luxuriant  olive-groves  and  fig-orchards,  interspersed  with 
fruit-trees  of  various  kinds,  are  dotted  hither  and  thither,  everywhere. 
But  the  city  itself  is  not  so  attractive.  Many  of  its  streets  are  cavern- 
like,  for  they  run  under  the  houses.  They  would  afford  Ein  excellent 
opportunity  for  the  trial  of  some  rapid-transit  scheme,  were  it  not  that 


Houses  in  Shechem. 


they  are  so  very  narrow  and  continually  thronged  with  the  noisy,  hur- 
rying multitude.  The  better  view  of  life  is  had  from  the  house-tops. 
They  are  reached  from  the  streets  by  stone  stairways.  There  the  peo- 
ple take  their  leisure,  do  a  great  deal  of  their  trading  and  much  of 
their  work.  Thus  the  houses  seem  to  be,  as  indeed  many  are,  hoisted 
a  story  or  two  in  the  air.  There  is  no  regularity  of  style  about  them, 
and  it  is  all  one's  life  is  worth  to  try  to  find  the  way  among  them  with- 
out a  guide  and  a  torch.  Only  from  a  height  can  the  real  beauties  of 
Shechem  be  seen.     Then  the  broad  domes  of  the  mosques  and  their 


I^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

graceful  minarets  stand  out  finely ;  the  variety  of  houses  shows  forth, 
and  the  open  streets  are  indicated,  first  by  the  sound  which  comes  up 
from  the  multitude,  and  then  by  the  gay  bazars  which  line  them.  Fine 
views  are  had  from  "  Jacob's  Tower."  Strangely  enough,  amid  all  the 
buzz  and  noise  of  the  town  comes  the  clatter  of  the  cotton-gin,  for 
Shechem  is  the  great  cotton  centre  of  Palestine.  It  is  also  headquar- 
ters for  the  best  olive-oil  soap.  All  along  the  side  of  Mount  Ebal,  when 
the  new  covenant  was  made,  Joshua  mustered  the  tribes  of  Reuben  and 
Gad,  of  Asher  and  Zebulon,  of  Dan  and  Naphtali.  On  the  other  side, 
against  Gerizim,  the  tribes  of  Simeon  and  Levi,  of  Judah  and  Issachar, 
of  Joseph  and  Benjamin  were  gathered.  As  one  stands  looking  from 
the  top  of  "  Jacob's  Tower  "  the  present  seems  to  vanish  and  the  past 
arises  again  with  a  strange  reality.  Not  a  single  feature  of  nature  ap- 
pears to  have  been  touched  out  by  the  wizard  pencil  of  time.  Every 
light  and  every  shade  is  accentuated  by  the  long  perspective  of  history. 
The  pages  recorded  here  must  face  those  of  Sinai.  The  vale  of  She- 
chem is  the  consonant  of  the  plain  of  Er  Raha.  Somewhere  and  some- 
how, running  through  the  intervening  pages,  are  the  threads  we  have 
tried  to  gather  up  and  follow,  guided  by  the  entanglements  of  tradition 
and  persuaded  by  the  reasonings  of  the  modern  explorer.  The  sounds 
of  idolatry  were  left  at  Aaron's  Hill,  and  the  blast  of  the  trumpets 
cheered  the  desolation  of  Wady  es  Sheik ;  then  the  departing  hosts  fol- 
lowed across  the  wilderness,  where  the  manna  and  the  quail  were  pro- 
vided, through  the  enclosure  of  Hazeroth  to  the  wanderin§"-place  of 
Kadesh-Bamea,  where  the  provision  of  good  water  was  followed  by 
the  long  tarrying.  On  they  went  until,  climbing  the  flinty  ridges  of 
the  border,  the  place  was  reached  where  denuded  nature  grew  more 
consistent  and  the  long  inclines  were  found  clothed  with  lovely  flow- 
ers. There  the  land,  "  with  milk  and  honey  blest,"  was  seen  as  the  spies 
had  seen  it.  On  and  on,  by  the  way  of  the  desert  wilds  again,  to  Nebo, 
to  the  sacred  river,  and  across  it  to  where  all  intrusion  of  barrenness 
ceased  and  the  Promised  Land  was  reached.  Just  so  we  may  see  it 
to-day. 

The  pride  of  Shechem  is  its  olive-groves.  The  olive,  no  matter  how 
young,  always  looks  old  and  careworn  when  it  stands  alone.  Wlien  cul- 
tivated in  orchards  or  groves,  however,  nothing  in  the  country  is  more 
beautiful.  The  bark  seems  to  granulate  and  crust  as  soon  as  it  becomes 
of  any  thickness,  and  the  short  stems  hopelessly  twist  before  they  have 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  263 

any  girth;  but  Nature  averages  lier  favors,  even  with  the  olive,  for 
abundant  foliage  is  supplied  to  hide  all  deformities.  When  the  cool 
breeze  disturbs  the  leaves  they  turn  first  their  green  side  and  then  their 
gray  to  the  light,  with  the  steady  movement  of  the  palm  branch,  and 
present  an  enchanting  dissolving  view.  At  the  centre  of  the  town  the 
water-shed  ceases  to  flow  Jordanward  and  begins  to  meander  westward 
on  its  journey  to  the  Mediterranean.  Soon  after  the  mountains  are  left 
behind,  a  wide  basin  opens  to  view  which  presents  a  veritable  terres- 
trial elysium.  On  either  side  the  terraced  hills  incline  gently  like  the 
banks  of  the  lower  Rhine.  They  are  surpassingly  lovely.  The  sounds 
of  running  waters  and  the  songs  of  birds  salute  you  as  you  ride  on. 
The  foliage  is  so  luxuriant  as  almost  to  create  a  jungle,  and  though  you 
are  allured  by  the  bewildering  scene,  your  passage  through  is  disputed 
by  the  hanging  limbs  and  trailing  creepers.  Long  lines  of  aqueducts, 
and  now  and  then  vine-covered  Roman  arches,  rise  up  and  remind  you 
of  the  Campagna.  As  though  the  bounding  streams  were  insufficient 
to  give  life  to  the  wondrous  growth,  the  water  oozes  out  from  the  sides 
of  the  old-time  conduits  and  gives  a  helping  hand.  The  clatter  of 
mills  is  heard  and  the  sound  of  voices  comes  up  from  the  jungle  with 
harsh  incongruity.  The  tingling  of  their  bells  announces  the  near 
presence  of  the  flocks,  and  repeatedly  you  see  an  adventurous  sheep  or 
goat  stationed  on  a  protruding  rock,  lowering  his  head  with  threaten- 
ing aspect  and  stamping  his  fore-foot  in  anger  at  your  audacious  ap- 
proach. Yet  you  push  your  horse  on  through  the  wild  herbage.  Tour 
senses  become  involved,  so  suggestive  is  everything,  and  but  little  im- 
agination is  required  to  transport  you  to  the  days  when  Pan,  who  was 
once  worshipped  at  the  base  of  Mount  Hermon,  only  a  few  miles  away, 
slept  in  the  heat  of  the  noon-tide,  and  goatherds  and  wayfaring  men  laid 
down  to  slumber  by  the  roadside  under  the  welcoming  olive-boughs. 
You  look  up  every  shady  glen  you  pass  for  the  remnant  of  some  pagan 
altar  hung  with  wreaths  of  flowers  as  of  old,  and  shaded  by  lemon-groves 
where  Nature  was  worshipped.  Everything  is  basking  in  sunlight  and 
glittering  with  exceeding  brilliancy  of  hue.  Your  excitement  again 
leads  you  to  peer  through  the  shades  expectantly,  lest  you  escape 
the  ruins  of  some  sequestered  chapel  of  the  crusade  days.  You  are 
startled  every  time  you  hear  the  decayed  branches  crackle  under  the 
tread  of  the  strolling  flocks,  lest  the  mirth-making  dancers  of  the  olden- 
time  worship  pass  by  without  your  seeing  them.    Then,  as  you  plunge 


264 


I]^  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 


into  the  thicket  and  some  of  the  light  goes  out,  the  coolness  of  twilight 
pervades  and  you  watch  for  withered  old  women  and  age-bowed  pil- 
grims telling  their  rosaries,  and  belated  shepherds  crossing  themselves 
while  they  intone  their  blessings  upon  Godfrey  and  Baldwin  and  call 
down  curses  upon  Saladin.  Secluded  cloisters  are  suggested  by  the 
narrow  pathways  which  lead  in  every  direction.    The  echoes  come  down 


Beggars  by  the  Roadside. 


from  the  hills  like  the  crashing  of  organs  and  the  solemn  resonance  of 
distant  bells.  In  the  midst  of  nature's  splendor  your  mind  is  led  again 
and  again  to  the  Spirit  which  is  above  nature.  The  olive-trees  lead  you 
to  Olivet ;  the  garden  and  the  broken  reeds  and  the  lilies  of  the  field 
turn  your  mind  repeatedly  to  the  gentle  One  whose  visit  here  made  the 
whole  neighborhood  hallowed.  He  must  have  passed  this  very  place. 
The  white  flowers  abounding  are  called  the  "  Star  of  Bethlehem." 
Only  the  beggars  by  the  roadside  annoy.  But  the  wandering  people 
who  watch  their  flocks  here  now  have  no  sympathy  with  us,  and  we 


FROM  JUDEA  TO  SAMARIA.  265 

leave  them  benighted,  in  possession  of  one  of  the  loveliest  spots  on 
earth.  After  an  advance  of  about  a  mile  and  a  half  westward,  the  glen 
narrows  and  the  inclines  on  either  side  grow  more  precipitous.  In  a 
little  time  the  dragoman  leads  northward,  up  a  steep  and  stony  road. 
The  sound  of  the  merry  water  is  left  behind,  and  the  lovely  trees  and 
flowers  are  exchanged  for  the  obtruding  stones  and  rank  thorn-bushes 
which  dispute  the  way.  Thrice  repulsive  are  the  faces  of  some  of 
the  fellahin  you  meet.  Not  a  "  good  Samaritan  "  of  the  old  school  is 
discoverable  in  the  whole  posse  of  them.  They  are  entirely  out  of 
harmony  with  the  character  of  the  land.  They  have  only  a  sojourner's 
place,  however.  They  are  permitted  by  national  custom  to  come  with 
their  flocks  during  the  season  of  pasturage,  but  they  are  not  wel- 
comed by  the  husbandmen.  They  are  against  everybody,  and  nobody 
befriends  them.  Every  single  one  holds  a  feud  against  some  one  in 
particular.  It  may  be  the  hereditary  foe  of  his  tribe  for  generations, 
or  it  may  be  the  newly  made  enemy  of  his  latest  marauding  expedi- 
tion. But  in  any  case,  if  he  kills  his  enemy  fairly,  after  due  notifica- 
tion of  his  intention  to  do  so,  he  is  held  by  his  people  to  have  rather 
performed  a  duty  than  to  have  committed  a  crime.  But  he  finds  it 
most  prudent,  after  such  a  maintenance  of  his  honor,  to  spend  his 
future  as  much  as  possible  in  the  dense  tangles  which  have  been  de- 
scribed. There  is  scarcely  an  Arab  family  hereabout  without  a  "  blood- 
feud,"  as  they  term  it.  From  the  parable  of  our  Lord,  so  familiar  to  us 
all,  it  would  appear  that  His  day  was  not  free  from  such  tribulations  as 
attended  the  poor  man  who  was  waylaid.  Journeying  on,  after  a  tough 
grapple  with  a  bare,  bold  ridge,  the  fertile  valley  and  the  babbling 
brook  again  greet  the  delighted  traveller.  The  sides  of  the  hills  in  all 
directions  are  dotted  by  families  of  fig  and  sycamore  and  olive  trees. 
Apples,  pomegranates,  and  apricots  abound.  Every  knoll  is  crowned 
with  a  village,  and  life  and  prosperity  are  indicated  by  the  sounds 
which  come  from  them.  The  city  of  Samaria  may  soon  be  made  out, 
though  yet  as  much  as  three  miles  away.  The  narrow  bridle-path,  for 
such  it  is,  is  never  wide  enough  to  pass  a  single  carriage.  It  follows 
the  valley,  descends  through  splendid  groves,  to  the  north  still  for 
a  while,  and  then  turning  to  the  west  abruptly,  leads  upward,  say 
^^e  hundred  feet  from  the  valley,  to  the  summit  of  the  oval  hill  upon 
which  historic  Samaria  is  located.  Its  surroundings  fill  all  the  require- 
ments of  war  and  of  peace.     Only  the  eastern  side  is  approachable. 


JiT  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

It  rises  gently  from  the  direction  of  Mount  Ebal.  In  other  directions 
the  inclines  are  so  regularly  terraced  and  so  thickly  clad  with  verdure, 
that  they  have  the  appearance  of  being  under  a  high  state  of  cultiva- 
tion. The  hills  encircling  Samaria  cause  the  elevation  on  which  the 
•place  stands  to  look  like  a  cone  rising  from  a  great  crater.  Herod 
made  a  glorious  choice  of  location  on  account  of  its  natural  surround- 
ings. Toward  the  sea,  the  top  of  Mount  Carmel,  and  toward  Galilee 
Mount  Tabor,  toward  the  Jordan,  Hermon,  Little  Hermon,  and  Gerizim 
are  visible,  while  in  the  north,  like  the  clouds  that  are  above,  betimes, 
the  snowy  peaks  of  Mount  Lebanon  rise.  How  glorious  it  must  have 
been  when  the  glittering  rays  of  the  sun  fell  upon  the  columns  and  pin- 
nacles of  Herod's  temples  and  palaces,  and  sent  the  long  lines  of 
shadows  through  the  splendid  colonnade.  Herod  obeyed  here,  as  he 
did  whenever  he  undertook  any  work  for  the  people,  from  whom  his 
favorite  tax-gatherer  was  expected  to  extract  the  funds,  his  passion  for 
magnificence ;  for  palaces,  markets,  temples,  and  porticos  were  erected 
according  to  his  royal  humor.  Greeks,  Eomans,  Egyptians,  and  Ara- 
bians were  his  guests  from  time  to  time,  and  it  was  the  boast  of  the 
"  Idumean  slave  "  that  he  could  always  invite  them  to  rest  beneath  the 
shade  of  their  native  trees ;  to  set  before  them  at  table  such  fruits  as 
tempted  them  most  when  they  ate  under  their  own  vines  and  fig-trees, 
and  to  adorn  their  apartments  with  their  native  flowers ;  for  he  caused 
all  kinds  to  be  brought  from  every  part  of  the  world.  A  busy  multi- 
tude of  slaves  found  employment  in  caring  for  the  grounds  and  build- 
ings of  the  tyrant  king. 

The  usual  camping-place  of  the  sojourner  now  is  at  the  top  of  the 
hill,  near  some  fruit-trees  and  but  a  short  distance  from  the  ruins  of 
the  old  church  of  St.  John.  A  requisition  was  made  upon  the  camera 
there  one  morning,  which  resulted  in  a  curious  picture  showing  ex- 
amples of  architecture  representative  of  three  periods  in  the  checkered 
history  of  Samaria.  The  first  is  the  black  tent  of  the  Arab,  in  no  re- 
spect different,  probably,  from  the  ones  inhabited  by  the  patriarchs 
when  they  watched  their  flocks  in  the  adjoining  pasture-fields ;  the  sec- 
ond is  the  squalid  stone  domicile  of  the  permanent  dweller  in  Samaria 
— architecturally  sup>erior  to  the  tent  of  the  Bedouin,  probably,  but  by 
no  means  so  from  a  sanitary  view ;  third,  is  a  picturesque  portion  of 
the  old  church  of  St.  John — the  remarkable  memorial  of  the  indomita- 
ble energy  and  genius  of  the  crusader,  joined  perhaps  with  suggestions 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  267 

from  the  Saracen.  Every  one  of  the  trio  suggests  the  ruined  glory  of 
the  past,  as  does  the  entire  neighborhood.  The  tragic  story  of  Samaria 
began  with  its  purchase  of  Shemer  by  King  Omri  for  two  talents  of 
silver,  about  900  B.C.  Ahab  succeeded  his  father  and  erected  an  idol 
temple  at  Samaria.  The  King  of  Damascus  tried  repeatedly  to  gain 
Ijossession  by  siege,  but  was  as  often  driven  off.  Elisha  lived  there  for 
a  long  time,  when  some  of  the  most  marvellous  events  in  his  history 
were  enacted.  Again  the  city  was  besieged,  and  during  the  famine 
which  followed  the  crazed  and  starving  women  boiled  and  ate  their 
children,  that  hunger  might  be  appeased.  At  that  sore- hour,  when  the 
stricken  people  wavered,  the  good  prophet  announced  that  on  the  mor- 
row, notwithstanding  the  terror  then  reigning,  the  price  of  food  should 
be  reduced  to  a  nominal  sum.  Four  lepers  who  had  been  cast  out  of 
the  city,  not  caring  in  what  garb  death  met  them,  resolved  to  risk  a 
visit  to  the  camp  of  the  besiegers  and  beg  for  food.  When  they  carried 
their  resolve  into  execution  they  found  the  besiegers  had  fled  panic- 
stricken,  and  had  left  their  camp  rich  with  the  spoils  of  war.  How 
these  lepers  gloated  then,  and  began  to  hide  of  the  plenty  for  them- 
selves ;  until,  conscience-stricken,  they  returned  to  the  city  and  spread 
the  glad  news  to  their  fellow-citizens.  There  was  food  for  all,  and  the 
prophet's  prediction  was  fulfilled  the  next  day.  For  many  a  long  cen- 
tury after  that,  history  seems  to  have  gathered  nothing  important  con- 
cerning Samaria.  But  when  Augustus  came  into  power  he  gave  that 
lovely  site  to  Herod  the  Great.  This  vainglorious  ruler  enlarged  and 
beautified  it  until  some  of  his  Roman  guests  declared  that  it  outrivalled 
Baalbec  and  Palmyra.  But  it  did  not  withstand  the  varied  risks  of 
time  as  have  its  rivals,  for  there  are  no  such  glorious  ruins  here  as 
Baalbec  and  Palmyra  have  preserved  to  them.  Herod  made  the  sum- 
mit of  the  picturesque  hijl  on  which  his  new  accession  stood  more 
glorious  by  the  erection  of  a  magnificent  temple  in  honor  of  Augustus. 
He  enclosed  the  base  of  the  hill  by  two  rows  of  columns  placed  fifty 
feet  apart  and  extending  three  thousand  feet  in  length.  Many  of  these 
splendid  monoliths  have  been  carried  away,  but  a  number  of  them,  with 
capitals  gone,  are  seen  standing  here  and  there  in  the  surrounding 
fields.  They  serve  as  part  of  a  fence  at  the  edge  of  a  grove  near  the 
ruins  of  the  church  of  St.  John,  and  show  rough  treatment  from  the 
teeth  of  time.  Jesus  and  Philip,  and  Peter  and  John,  saw  Samaria  in 
all  its  splendor,  and  the  voice  of  Simon  the  sorcerer  rang  across  the  val- 


268  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

leys  when  he  harangued  the  people  from  the  Temple  platform.  The 
sixty  squalid  homes  which  top  the  noble  site  now  are  made  of  mud  and 
stone,  and  a  number  of  them  are  supported  by  columns  whose  polish 
was  paid  for  by  Herod  the  Great.  The  superstitious  inhabitants  claim 
that  the  spirits  of  the  royal  dwellers  in  Sebaste  are  seen  o'  nights  ca- 
prioling through  the  ruins  of  the  broken  colonnade,  keeping  time  with 
the  siren  strains  and  the  dance  music  which  come  down  with  the  wind 
from  the  hill  of  Omri.  Luxuriant  trees  and  clustering  vines  have  taken 
the  place  of  exquisite  statuary  ;  the  tesselated  marble  pavements,  quar- 
ried from  the  Italian  hills,  are  now  so  far  buried  beneath  the  Samaritan 
soil  as  to  put  the  patience  of  the  enthusiastic  excavator  who  would  find 
them  to  a  crucial  test.  I  know  of  no  more  captivating  views  of  the 
same  extent  than  those  which  must  have  met  the  eyes  and  delighted 
the  senses  of  King,  Prophet,  and  Evangelist  alike  here  in  the  early 
years  of  the  first  century.  The  same  sea-tempered  breezes  which  came 
from  the  west  to  cool  the  domiciles  of  wealth  and  power  then,  still  come, 
but  they  are  only  met  by  the  desolation  which  was  promised  in  return 
for  continued  rebellion.  All  this  can  be  easily  reconciled ;  but  it  is  a 
parallelism  harder  to  understand,  that  substituted  the  dark  and  de- 
generating influence  of  the  Saracen  for  that  of  the  Crusader,  as  exem- 
plified by  the  ruins  of  the  old  church  of  St.  John.  It  looks  as  odd  here 
as  the  Russian  church  on  the  Mount  of  Olives.  Separated  from  its 
surroundings,  it  recalls  some  of  the  English  and  Scotch  cathedral  ruins. 
It  was  built  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross.  It  is  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  feet  long  and  seventy-five  feet  wide.  Its  well-proportioned  nave 
and  its  two  grand  aisles,  though  lined  now  by  broken  columns  only, 
show  much  beauty  of  construction.  The  order  is  Corinthian,  although 
here  and  there  some  Saracen  feeling  is  discovered.  It  is  hardly  pos- 
sible that  the  natives  can  tell  why,  but  there,  erected  inside  the  walls,  is 
a  rude  mosque.  From  the  door  of  this  one  can  see,  set  in  the  opposite 
wall,  the  great  white  tablets  on  which  are  the  sculptured  crosses  of  the 
Order  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  Twenty-one  steps  lead  down  from 
the  mosque  to  a  tiny  chamber  excavated  in  the  rock.  Here,  says  tradi- 
tion, is  where  the  mourning  friends  of  the  forerunner  of  Christ  brought 
his  headless  body  from  the  castle  of  Machaerus,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Jordan,  where  he  was  executed.  Elisha  and  Abdias  were  his  sepulchre 
companions,  one  on  either  side.  But  the  dust  of  even  such  men  as 
John  was  not  respected  by  the  apostate  Romans,  for  when  Julian 


FROM  JUDEA  TO  SAMARIA.  269 

came  into  power  he  caused  the  remains  of  John  to  be  exhumed,  his 
bones  to  be  burned,  and  his  ashes  to  be  scattered  to  the  winds.  One 
finger,  however,  was  left  unbumed — the  one  that  had  pointed  to  "  the 
Lamb  of  God."    It  was  preserved  and  became  the  nucleus  of  a  church. 

Sir  John  Mandeville,  that  most  quaint  and  ancient  of  Palestine  trav- 
ellers, records  that  "  there  were  many  other  churches  there,  but  they  are 
all  beaten  down.  There  was  wont  to  be  the  head  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist, inclosed  in  the  wall ;  but  the  Emperor  Theodosius  had  it  drawn 
out  and  found  it  wrapped  in  a  little  cloth  and  all  bloody ;  and  so  he 
carried  it  to  Constantinople  ;  and  the  hinder  part  of  the  head  is  still  at 
Constantinople  ;  and  the  fore  part  of  the  head,  to  under  the  chin,  is  at 
Kome,  under  the  Church  of  St.  Sylvester,  where  are  nuns ;  and  it  is  yet 
all  broiled  as  though  it  were  half  burnt ;  for  the  Emperor  Julian  above 
mentioned,  for  his  wickedness  and  malice,  burnt  that  part  with  the 
other  bones,  as  may  still  be  seen ;  and  this  thing  hath  been  proved 
both  by  popes  and  emperors.  And  the  jaws  beneath,  which  hold  to 
the  chin,  and  a  part  of  the  ashes,  and  the  platter  on  which  the  head 
was  laid  when  it  was  smitten  off,  are  at  Genoa,  and  the  Genoese  make  a 
great  feast  in  honor  of  it,  and  so  do  the  Saracens  also.  •  And  some  men 
say  that  the  head  of  St.  John  is  at  Amiens,  in  Picardy ;  and  other  men 
say  it  is  the  head  of  St.  John  the  bishop.  I  know  not  which  is  correct, 
but  God  knows ;  but,  however  men  worship  it,  the  blessed  St.  John  is 
satisfied." 

In  the  grand  mosque  of  Damascus  (see  Chap.  XI Y.),  which  has  been 
in  time  a  heathen  temple,  a  Christian  church,  and  is  now  the  religious 
home  of  the  Moslem,  breaking  the  monotony  of  the  magnificent  tessel-' 
ated  marble  floor,  is  a  building  of  great  beauty  topped  by  a  cupola  of 
exquisite  symmetry.  It  is  carved  and  inlaid  outside  and  in,  and  is  con- 
tinually lighted  by  gaudily  painted  wax  candles.  Underneath  this 
gorgeous  canopy,  in  a  cave,  is  a  jewelled  casket,  containing,  it  is  claimed, 
the  head  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  which,  say  the  disciples  of  Moham- 
med, will  be  joined  to  the  body  of  the  murdered  forerunner  at  the  last 
day,  when  he  and  Mohammed  and  Jesus  Christ  shall  sit  in  the  "  Min- 
aret of  Jesus  "  [one  of  the  three  of  this  Mosque]  and  judge  the  world." 
The  mystery  is,  then,  how  Julian  could  have  done  so  much  damage  to 
the  head  of  St.  John  when  it  was  never  brought  to  Samaria.  But  the 
traveller  who  seeks  information  in  the  Orient  must  not  be  too  persist- 
ent in  his  efforts  to  reconcile  tradition,  if  he  would  not  become  per- 


270  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

plexed.  Again,  we  are  told  that  the  precious  relics  were  carefully- 
guarded  at  Samaria,  or  in  the  neighborhood,  until  the  Crusade  power 
was  crushed  and  the  Moslem  again  held  sway  and  then  brought  them 
back.  The  cowled  monks  still  come  there  to  pray  underneath  the 
gothic  roof,  but  they  are  pilgrims,  and  not  protectors.  Many  an  alert 
horseman  still  halts  to  do  homage,  but  he  is  only  an  humble  citizen 
from  a  foreign  land,  and  not  a  mail-clad  knight  with  a  plume  rising 
above  his  metal  visor.  Only  the  relics  of  Herod  and  of  John  are  to 
be  seen  in  Sebaste  now.  The  rest  of  the  dead  past  lies  underneath 
Sebaste's  soil.  I  am  free  to  confess  that  I  did  not  meet  the  proverbial 
"  good  Samaritan  "  as  I  journeyed  through  this  much  favored  country. 
On  the  contrary,  I  felt  all  the  time  as  if  I  too  had  fallen  "among 
thieves  "  none  too  conscientious  to  strip  me  of  my  raiment,  none  too 
tender-hearted  to  wound  me,  nor  a  bit  careful  as  to  whether  they  left 
me  "  half  dead  "  or  wholly  defunct.  It  was  difficult  to  get  them  to  act 
the  "  neighbor,"  even  so  much  as  to  tell  one  the  way.  If  you  meet  a 
tiller  of  the  soil  he  will  sidle  off  from  you  as  far  as  the  narrow  way  will 
allow  and  scowlingly  watch  your  approach.  Salute  him  with  "  Salaam- 
ah-laykoom  "  pPeace  be  with  you],  and  he  will  encroach  upon  the  field 
while  he  tries  to  get  still  further  away  from  you,  scowling  still  more. 
Try  "marhubba"  [May  your  road  be  easy  and  smooth],  and  yet  no 
show  of  the  "  neighbor  "  will  appear.  The  offer  of  a  piastre  will  bring 
him  to  a  standstill,  and  while  he  takes  it  he  will  look  upon  you  with 
holy  horror.  Now  despatch  your  business — How  far  is  it  to  Nain  ? 
"  God  knows,"  comes  the  fervent  answer.  How  long  will  it  take  to  go 
there  ?  [With  a  shrug  of  the  shoulder,  a  shiver  in  his  voice,  and  a  pull 
at  his  pipe.]  "  As  long  as  God  pleases."  [Smokes  slowly.]  Shall  I 
reach  there  by  the  noon  Muezzin  ?  "  If  God  permit."  [Smokes.]  But, 
may  I  hope  to  make  the  distance  in  an  hour  ?  "  As  God  may  direct." 
[Walks  away.]  Is  Nain  distant,  or  is  it  very  near  ?  "  There  !  "  [Send- 
ing his  smoke  in  the  direction  of  his  pointed  finger,  which  he  moves  in 
a  segment  from  right  to  left.]  If  you  extract  a  more  neighborly  spirit 
than  this  from  a  Samaritan  you  must  have  the  mysterious  power  of  a 
dervish.  And  yet  these  are  the  people  who  say  that  they  are  "the 
right  sons  of  God,  and  that  above  all  others  they  are  the  best  beloved 
of  God,  and  that  to  them  belongs  the  heritage  that  God  promised  to 
his  best  beloved  children."  We  are  often  told  that  the  customs  of 
the  people  in  this  land  have  remained  unchanged  since  the  days  of 


FROM  JUDEA  TO  SAMARIA.  271 

Abraham,  but  it  is  indeed  true  that  the  "good  Samaritan"  we  read 
about  lived  in  a  different  dispensation  from  that  of  the  present.  His 
descendants  may  have  inherited  some  of  his  traits  and  a  good  deal 
of  his  religion,  but  as  a  rule,  contact  with  them  generallj^  tends  to 
excite  a  feverish  condition  of  mind  rather  than  soothe  like  the  med- 
icine which  heals  the  distempered  body.  Nature,  however,  comforts 
and  sustains  as  of  old,  and  both  in  the  solitude  of  her  deep  shad- 
ows and  amid  her  cheerful  lights,  one  may  always  find  consolation. 
Everything  moves  on  in  peace,  in  order,  and  in  silence.  Man  seems 
to  prosper  only  upon  the  ruin  of  his  fellow-man.  The  trees  and  the 
plants  increase  in  stature  and  in  girth  so  noiselessly  that  one  can- 
not detect  them.  The  sun  and  the  moon  and  the  stars  perform  their 
convolutions  without  a  single  sound  or  clash.  As  has  been  said,  it  is 
inspiriting  to  be  left  alone  here  to  be  taught  and  swayed  by  the  beau- 
tiful circumstance  of  Palestine  travelling — by  the  clime  and  the  land 
and  the  name  of  the  land  in  all  its  mighty  import — by  the  glittering 
freshness  of  the  sward,  and  the  abounding  masses  of  flowers  that  fur- 
nish the  sumptuous  pathway — by  the  bracing  and  fragrant  air  that 
seems  to  poise  you  in  your  saddle,  and  to  lift  you  along  as  a  planet 
appointed  to  glide  through  space.  And  did  not  Jesus  himself  strive 
to  blend  his  own  teachings  with  those  of  his  natural  surroundings,  and 
to  illustrate  the  spiritual  truths  which  make  wise  unto  salvation  by 
means  of  the  pictures  which  he  drew  from  the  scenes  and  objects  of 
nature  around  about?  So,  when  you  travel  in  the  land  which  gave 
him  birth,  and  become  tried  and  baffled  by  your  inability  to  make  the 
manners  and  customs  of  the  peoi)le  coalesce  with  your  ideals  of  the 
past,  you  can  turn  to  nature  and  bring  the  days  of  the  Divine  Teachel* 
very  near  to  you.  On  all  sides  the  parable  of  the  Sower  is  illustrated. 
The  trees,  the  leaves,  the  com,  the  vine  and  its  branches,  the  root  out 
of  dry  ground,  the  seed  which  has  fallen  in  all  sorts  of  ground,  the 
xeed  shaken  with  the  wind,  and  the  mustard-seed  are  all  abundant,  and 
all  mean  just  as  much  as  they  did  nineteen  hundred  years  ago. 

It  was  just  at  sunset  that  my  path  led  me  across  a  plain  and  then 
up  the  hill  on  which  Jenin  stands,  at  the  southern  border  of  the  plain 
of  Esdraelon.  When  the  sun  gave  its  last  touch  of  color,  the  Moslem 
attendants  were  all  do^Ti  upon  their  knees  with  their  faces  toward 
Mecca.  Then  the  village  fell  asleep  meekly  under  the  shades  of  the 
evening.    The  only  light  came  somehow  from  the  broad  dome  of  the 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  273" 

little  mosque  which  overtops  the  palm-trees.  The  narrow  gallery  of 
the  mosque  minaret  was  put  to  other  use  than  its  constructor  planned 
it  for,  next  morning-,  for  it  became  an  observation  tower.  The  views 
from  it  are  as  widely  different,  north  and  south,  as  can  be,  but  equally 
grand  and  imposing.  A  world  in  miniature  seems  provided  here  in 
the  circle  possible  to  cover  with  the  naked  eye ;  far  seaboard,  plain,  and 
mountain  are  all  included,  with  suggestions  of  all  climates,  from  that 
which  the  palm  seeks  to  the  frigid  region  necessary  to  hold  the  per- 
ennial snow  upon  the  summit  of  Mount  Hermon,  far  to  the  north. 
Noi-thward  and  from  east  to  west  is  the  great  plain  of  Esdraelon,  wherein 
we  must  find  our  cluster  of  Galilean  towns.  The  bright  sky  and  the 
balmy  air  give  you  an  immense  appreciation  for  the  thousand  forms  of 
beauty  which  are  there,  and  you  need  only  to  search  to  find  where 
sparkling  fountains  are  unsealed,  where  impetuous  brooks  go  murmur- 
ing by,  where  the  wild  cascades  leap  from  their  rocky  heights,  come 
dashing  down  the  mountain  side,  and,  scattering  the  rays  of  light  which 
dispute  their  passage,  break  up  into  innumerable  rainbows  in  quick 
succession.  The  valleys  and  the  hills  we  know  all  about,  for  we  have 
just  enjoyed  fair  examples  of  them  with  all  the  elements  of  husbandry 
which  attend  them.  The  surrounding  glens,  too,  offer  you  a  rich  re- 
ward if  you  have  the  constitution  to  plunge  into  them  and  j)artake,  for 
they,  with  the  vast  plains,  hold  such  rich  stores  of  flowers  that  when 
you  are  among  them  you  are  sure  that  you  have  been  brought  to  a  land 
transformed  into  an  Eden  of  color.  Then  are  you  convinced  that  the 
inspired  descriptions  of  the  promised  land  have  been  none  too  enthu- 
siastically painted.  Just  such  pictures  may  be  sketched  from  the  lit- 
tle minaret  of  Jenin,  and  you  have  but  to  go  down  and  fill  in  the  details 
to  your  heart's  content.  Toward  the  last  of  April,  heavy  dews  come 
hereabouts  and  make  the  nights  and  mornings  chilly.  I  was  reminded 
of  this  by  my  good  Nubian  body-guard,  Abdullah,  when  he  ventured  to 
suggest  an  extra  covering  for  my  little  iron  bedstead  the  night  we  en- 
camped at  Jenin.  Perhaps  the  careful  man,  with  a  vein  of  supersti- 
tion running  in  his  mind,  had  another  pui-pose,  for  he  was  sure  now 
that  my  sleep  would  not  be  disturbed  by  any  ghost  of  Saul  or  Jona- 
than, or  by  the  fumes  coming  over  the  plain  from  the  potions  of  the 
witch  of  Endor.  Neither  would  the  shouts  of  Jehu  and  Joram,  the 
death-rattle  of  Josiah,  the  noise  from  Gideon's  band,  the  war-cry  of 

Deborah,  or  the  clash  of  arms  between  Barak  and  Sisera  awaken,  nor 
18 


274  1:^"  8GRIPTUBE  LANDS. 

the  noise  of  the  iron  chariots  or  the  yell  of  the  Midianites  make  afraid, 
because  "  the  warm  covering"  would  head  off  the  bad  dreams."  It  ex- 
cites your  enthusiasm  to  go  into  a  battle,  and  you  do  not  think  very 
much  of  the  consequences  if  someone  else  assumes  the  responsibility 
of  giving  you  the  order  to  advance.  But  even  the  bravest  soldier  will 
not  voluntarily  select  the  border  of  a  great  battle-field,  where  night- 
mare hovers  like  a  miasma  and  every  fog  hides  an  army — of  supersti- 
tions— as  a  resting-place  after  a  day  of  hard  horseback  riding.  If  he 
does  he  will  need  to  protect  himself  from  the  chill. 

But  in  Palestine  you  have  no  choice  except  as  to  route.  Your  con- 
ductors have  their  "  stations  "  where  "  it  is  the  custom  to  halt "  at 
night,"  and  they  do  not  willingly  depart  from  their  "  custom."  Jenin 
is  not  a  large  town,  but  it  is  rather  more  attractive  than  the  majority  of 
its  neighbors,  not  only  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  its  natural  sur- 
roundings, but  owing  to  the  abundant  water-supply  which  is  brought 
by  a  covered  aqueduct  from  the  hills  back  of  the  town,  and  empties 
into  a  public  fountain.  Just  as  in  the  olden  time,  so  now  a  good  water- 
supply  is  of  the  highest  consideration  in  this  land  of  comparatively 
few  trees,  besides  adding  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  country  or 
the  village.  One  of  the  first  things  that  impress  you  when  you  ride 
out  from  Jenin  northward  and  overlook  the  vast  plain,  is,  that  not  a 
single  tree  appears  to  break  the  landscape.  Imagine  fifteen  miles  of 
the  valley  of  the  Genesee,  or  of  the  Connecticut,  or  of  the  Susquehanna 
without  a  tree,  and  you  will  understand  how  bare  of  foliage  the  usual 
Palestine  valley  appears. 

I  had  an  experience  at  Jenin  which  brought  very  clearly  to  my 
mind  the  incidents  related  by  Luke,  when  Jesus  was  met  by  the  pre- 
sumptuous arguments  of  those  who  considered  themselves  well  versed 
in  the  law,  and  especially  the  last  part  of  Chapter  XYI.  The  scene 
was  near  the  village  mosque.  It  is  the  purpose  of  every  mosque,  not 
only  to  lead  the  mind  of  the  beholder  to  God  when  he  first  catches  a 
glimpse  of  its  minaret  shining  in  the  sun,  but  to  lead  the  wayfarer  to  a 
place  of  refuge  without  money  and  without  price.  Therefore  the 
mosque  becomes  not  only  a  place  for  prayer,  but  there,  all  who  have 
hearts,  whether  heathen,  Moslem,  or  Christian,  without  respect  of  per- 
son, may  find  a  religious  home  in  the  widest  sense.  Thus  the  vast 
courts  of  the  mosque  are  often  found  inhabited  not  only  by  homeless 
tailors,  shoemakers,  sewing- women,  and  others,  but  their  number  is 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA. 


275 


often  doubled  by  beggars  who  laze  and  lounge  there  day  in  and  day 
out.  Some  of  these  last  only  awaken  when  hunger  compels,  and  ac- 
cept "whatever  Allah  sends,"  uncomplainingly.  Others  are  the 
brightest  kind  of  dervishes,  never  modest  about  pushing  their  claims 


^_=^^        _  ^ 


Without  purse  and  scrip. 


upon  the  superstitious  and  charitable,  and  always  ready  to  "  argue 
about  religion."  The  "  ^\q  brethren "  whom  the  rich  man  in  hell 
pleaded  Abraham  to  warn,  could  not  have  presented  a  more  hopeless 
condition  than  they.  But  the  group  I  caught  were  pilgrims,  going 
from  Mecca  to  Jerusalem.  They  were  travelling  "  without  purse  and 
scrip."  No  Lazarus  could  have  been  more  forlorn.  They  would  never 
arouse  to  the  earning  of  an  honest  living,  but  were  always  ready  to 
"  argue  "  if  three  out  of  their  four  were  allowed  to  slumber,  while  the 
fourth  attended  to  the  duties  of  religion.  They  would  not  "  be  per- 
suaded though  one  rose  from  the  dead/'    What  farcical  postulation 


276  IJY  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

must  have  led  these  fanatical  dervishes,  who  are  by  no  manner  of  means 
illiterate  men,  to  have  so  mistaken  the  purposes  of  life  as  to  think  they 
are  doing  Allah  the  best  service  possible  by  this  degraded  manner, 
which  they  consider  a  "  godly  example,"  entitling  them  to  the  charity 
and  reverence  of  the  faithful ! 

It  is  true  that  to  both  mind  and  body,  to  the  eye  loving  beauty 
alone,  and  to  the  soul  seeking  God  in  beauty  as  in  all  things,  there  is 
much  hereabouts  that  imparts  consolation  and  help  ;  to  the  spirit  which 
loves  to  dwell  upon  the  future  and  unseen,  this  land  supplies  nourish- 
ment which  no  other  can ;  but  these  creatures  do  not  enjoy  such  refine- 
ment of  feeling.  In  their  arguments  they  never  allude  to  the  many 
times,  through  the  long  line  of  centuries  covered  by  their  creed,  that 
the  spirit  of  the  Universe,  while  hiding  himself  from  other  nations, 
has  here  made  himself  visible,  because  the  propylon  of  their  faith  is 
their  prophet  Mohammed,  and  they  have  nothing  to  ask  from  the  in- 
finite and  incomprehensible  energy  which  they  should  acknowledge  as 
their  main  strength.  They  try  to  excite  awe  by  telling  how  their 
*'  prophet,"  though  hiding  himself  from  other  nations  in  a  darkness  and 
silence  never  disturbed,  was  here  present  in  person,  here  gave  them 
the  warrant  for  "  the  only  faith,  and  with  ringing  voice  sent  forth  the 
truth  which  must  reclaim  the  world."  They  evince  no  pleasure  in 
their  faith.  When  they  see  a  leaf  tremble  they  declare  it  has  been 
shaken  by  the  will  of  Mohammed.  They  declare  that  his  presence 
may  be  felt  in  every  dark  wood  and  amidst  the  silence  of  every  grotto. 
How  strange  it  is  that  such  men  should  exist  in  this  land,  over  the 
whole  face  of  which,  and  in  the  very  air  which  overhangs  it,  in  the 
murmuring  of  the  waters  which  flow  through  it,  in  the  beams  of  light 
which  come  down  upon  it,  there  seems  brooding  the  spirit  of  Him 
who  is  indeed  the  creator  of  all,  is  the  Father  of  all,  and  who  as  Saviour 
of  all  visited  the  cities  and  villages  adjacent  on  his  errand  of  mercy. 
How  strange  that  such  beggars  should  have  the  power  to  catch  up 
every  rumor  of  what  is  strange,  and  magnify  it  until  their  deluded  ad- 
herents are  excited  to  frenzy — and  give  them  "  backsheesh."  By  some 
manner  of  means  they  manage  to  secure  funds  to  enable  them  to  make 
the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  Entitled  by  such  wondrous  sacrifice  to 
wear  a  turban  of  "  holy  green,"  they  migrate  to  some  obscure  town  or 
village,  where  the  deluded  inhabitants  are  willing  to  regard  them  with 
holy  awe  and  terror  and  contribute  to  their  sustenance,  while  they  laze 


FROM  JUDEA   TO  SAMARIA.  277 

in  the  mosque  or  "  make  pilgrimages "  under  the  pressure  of  theo- 
logical priggism.  They  look  as  lifeless  as  a  desert  herb,  lazing  there 
among  their  filthy  rags,  and  are  shameless  and  indifferent  until  they 
are  approached  on  the  subject  of  religion,  when  they  arouse  to  a  power 
which  is  astonishing,  and  protrude  arguments  against  the  creed  of  the 
"  Christian  dog  "which,  from  such  a  source,  intelligent  though  it  may 
be,  can  be  safely  looked  upon  as  a  species  of  sublime  impudence. 
Were  not  those  who  argued  with  Jesus  Christ  just  such  characters  ? 


CHAPTEE  XI. 

ROUND  ABOUT  GALILEE. 


The  Departure  from  Samaria. — A  Wedding  Journey. — A  Fountain  by  the  Wayside.— 
Where  is  the  road  ? — The  Plain  of  Dothan.  —  The  Plain  of  Jezreel  or  Esdraelon. — 
The  Great  Battle-field  of  Palestine. — The  Splendid  Scenery. — Jezreel. — Mount 
Gilboa. — The  Fountain  of  Jezreel. — Endor. — Looking  toward  the  Jordan. —Shu- 
nem. — Little  Hermon. — Nain. — Saluting  by  the  Wayside. — Pilgrims  and  Der- 
vishes,— At  the  Convent. — An  Arab  Funeral. — The  Little  Children. — A  Ride  over 
to  Cana. — Mount  Tabor. 


It  was  a  glorious  morning  in  April  when  we  made  our  departure 
from  Jenin.  The  air  was  too  crisp  and  cool  to  allow  even  the  oratory 
of  a  dervish  to  heat  the  blood.  And  then,  why  feel  cross  at  a  dervish  ? 
All  thoughts  of  them  aside,  for  now  we  are  in  sight  of  Galilee.  Gali- 
lee !  that  region  of  all  others  most  hallowed.  For  there  our  blessed 
Example  lived  during  the  greater  portion  of  his  stay  on  earth.  We 
are  now  to  look  upon  scenes  which  were  familiar  to  him.  As  I  rode 
away  from  the  Samaritan's  country  I  wondered  if  the  savage-looking 
people  who  dwell  there  now  were  capable  of  any  fine  sentiment  or  feel- 
ing like — human  beings.  Then,  suddenly  I  heard  the  firing  of  guns 
and  some  sort  of  rude  music  close  at  hand.  It  turned  out  that  a  wed- 
ding-feast had  been  going  on  in  the  valley  below,  and  that  the  bride 
and  groom,  with  an  attendant  j)rocession,  were  coming  toward  us.  A 
whole  crowd  of  young  people  accompanied  the  happy  twain  with  the 
intention  of  fulfilling  the  Bedouin  idea  of  "  hospitality  "  by  "  seeing  the 
guest  a  half  day's  journey  on  his  way."  The  groom  was  the  "  guest." 
He  had  come  over  from  Shechem  for  his  bride,  and  was  going  back 
there  with  her.  He  was  a  tall,  well-built  swain,  but  very  awkward,  and 
hardly  seemed  to  know  what  to  do  with  himself.  Sometimes  he  would 
walk  and  at  others  he  jumped  up  behind  his  wife,  who  rode  cross- 
legged  on  a  mule.  She  was  a  pretty  little  creature  with  merry,  bright 
eyes.    With  her  still  more  merry  attendants,  she  gave  me  a  good  op- 


ROUND  ABOUT  GALILEE.  279 

portunity  of  studying  the  faces  of  the  Samaritan  women,  for  their  faces 
were  not  veiled.  All  were  in  holiday  costume  and  a  lot  of  sing-ing^ 
went  on,  varied  by  the  responsive  verses  sung"  by  the  young  men  in 
front  and  at  the  rear.  None  seemed  to  enjoy  the  occasion  more  than 
the  pack-mules  on  whose  broad  backs  the  paniers  and  bundles  and 
boxes  were  roped  which  contained  the  bride's  "  outfit."  Among  other 
things  I  saw  two  or  three  very  comfortable-looking  coverlets  which 
will  undoubtedly  be  needed  when  Ebal  and  Gerizim  send  down  their 
frosty  air  into  the  new  house  of  the  bride  and  groom  during  the  short 
winter  which  comes  to  them.  The  scene  was  as  merry  and  as  pictur- 
esque as  a  Neapolitan  one,  and  seemed  to  be  heartily  enjoyed  by  the 
whole  procession.  The  tambourine  led  the  music.  When  I  asked  one 
of  my  Syrian  attendants  why  they  fired  the  guns,  he  answered,  "  Oh  ! 
these  stupid  people  don't  know  what  else  to  do."  As  the  merry- 
makers and  their  music  vanished  I  quickened  my  splendid  Syrian 
stallion,  for  there  were  many  wayside  views  to  gather  in,  and  we  wanted 
to  reach  our  first  camp  in  Lower  Galilee  before  nightfall.  The  distant 
views  presented  the  same  kind  of  country  as  that  below  Shechem,  and 
the  narrow  road  wound  up  and  down,  through  and  along.  It  was  a 
region  very  full  of  beauty  of  every  sort.  The  lower  ridges  of  the  Apen- 
nines, seen  by  the  European  traveller  as  he  passes  down  through 
Italy,  shooting  out  on  either  side  toward  the  Adriatic  and  the  Tuscan 
seas,  are  no  more  beautiful  than  the  hills  which  rise  on  right  and  left 
as  you  ride  down  from  Jenin.  Some  of  them  are  of  considerable 
height,  and  some  are  bare  and  rocky.  Some  of  them  are  verdure-clad 
and  seem  to  take  pride  in  upholding  the  villages  which  you  see 
perched  far  above  your  pathway.  The  surroundings  of  these  mountain 
homes  are  sometimes  very  attractive,  for  the  people  have  a  way,  all 
their  own,  of  winning  their  vineyards  to  grow  where,  to  a  stranger's 
eye,  there  seems  but  little  soil  to  sustain  the  adventurous  vines.  As 
surely,  however,  as  you  discover  a  spot  where  the  ground  opens  and 
the  hills  draw  back,  there  you  will  find  the  homes  of  the  peasantry 
clustered  beneath  the  foliage  of  rich  fruit-bearing  trees,  or  environed 
by  fields  covered  with  the  best  product  of  the  season,  or  by  plantations 
of  the  olive  and  the  fig.  The  tall  and  majestic  date-tree,  too,  is  much 
more  plenty  here  than  it  is  either  south  or  north,  and  always  gives  a 
sure  sign  of  the  neighboring  habitation.  As  in  Italy,  so  here,  the  vines 
are  led  from  tree  to  tree  and  shrub  to  shrub  wherever  such  natural 


^Jllllll iHlllln 


ROUNl)  ABOUT  GALILEE.  281 

supports  are  at  hand,  so  forming  many  a  welcome  retreat  from  the  heat 
of  the  sun.  The  people  who  dwell  here  seem  to  be  happy.  Their  sim- 
ple habits  cause  no  wants  but  what  the  fruitful  earth  abundantly  sup- 
plies ;  yet  they  are  slaves  to  the  tax-gatherer.  Every  olive  and  every 
palm  must  win  a  tribute  for  the  relentless  Caesar  who  presides  at  the 
Ottoman  gate.  Near  a  group  of  the  mulberry-trees  and  some  lofty 
palms  a  roadside  fountain  was  foimd.  Congregated  around  it,  some 
beating  their  laundry  with  olive-wood  clubs  upon  the  stony  water- 
troughs,  and  some  filling  their  water-pitchers,  was  a  large  number  of 
girls.  The  faces  of  some  of  them  were  very  pretty  and  bright.  It  was 
not  surprising,  in  these  days  of  numerous  photographs,  that  they  should 
know  the  use  of  the  camera  and  appreciate  their  own  value  as  models. 
No  sooner  had  a  chance  shot  been  made  at  them  than  each  particular 
water- jar  stood  on  end  and  the  unfortunate  disciple  of  Daguerre  was 
beset  and  almost  belabored  by  the  black-eyed  water-carriers  for  back- 
sheesh. Quite  fifty  pounds  do  some  of  these  water- jars  weigh  when 
filled,  yet  they  are  tossed  up  into  position  and  carried  off  as  easily  and 
AS  gracefully  as  a  queen  bears  her  crown.  One  poor  little  girl  I  saw 
had  no  jar,  and  had  substituted  a  square  tin  can  which  had  served  ori- 
ginally to  carry  American  kerosene.  It  made  quite  enough  load  for 
her.  I  am  not  sure  but  what  she  considered  herself  far  better  off  than 
her  companions,  but  I  would  have  exchanged  a  dozen  tin  cans  for  one 
of  their  picturesque  water- jars,  for  my  bric-a-brac  collection.      ^ 

Toward  ten  o'clock,  the  mist  having  all  disappeared,  a  topograph- 
ical map  of  the  country  which  was  to  occupy  us  for  the  two  days  fol- 
lowing was  outspread  far  below  us.  Oiu-  poor  di'agoman  w^as  now  be- 
set with  innumerable  queries :  Where  is  Nain  ?  "Where  is  the  plain 
of  Dothan  ?  "WTiich  is  the  road  to  Endor  Hedaiyah  ?  until  he  became 
so  bewildered  that  all  he  could  do  was  to  wave  his  uplifted  arm  from 
right  to  left  and  answer,  "  The  road  is  coming,  gentlemen  !  "  The  plain 
of  Dothan  was,  in  fact,  on  our  left,  but  its  similarity  to  the  plain  of 
Esdraelon,  and  the  fact  that  there  were  no  interesting  villages  there, 
caused  us  to  be  contented  with  a  distant  view  of  the  place  where  poor 
little  Joseph  was  sold  into  slavery  by  his  brothers ;  and  so  we  trotted 
on  toward  the  plain  of  Esdraelon  with  Mount  Gilboa  in  fidl  view  as 
our  guiding  star.  Beginning  at  the  Mediterranean  just  north  of 
Mount  Carmel  and  reaching  in  and  up,  like  the  arm  of  some  great  giant 
submerged  in  the  sea,  to  the  mountains  which  line  the  west  side  of  the 


282  /iV^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

Jordan,  and  then  reaching  between  the  ranges  to  the  very  shores  of 
the  sacred  river,  is  a  vast  plain.  If  you  could  obtain  a  topographical 
view  of  it  from  a  balloon,  the  Jordan  side  would  present  the  appear- 
ance of  a  mutilated  hand.  The  mountain  ridges  would  appear  to  you 
like  fingers ;  their  highest  peaks  as  knuckles,  and  the  narrow  valleys, 
to  carry  out  the  simile,  the  spaces  between  the  fingers  reaching  to  the 
Jordan.  This  lovely  expanse  is  the  plain  of  Jezreel,  or,  in  softer 
Greek,  the  plain  of  Esdraelon. 

The  highest  point  of  the  Gilboa  Mountains  serves  as  the  second 
knuckle.  The  third  is  supplied  by  the  topmost  peak  of  the  Little 
Hermon  range ;  Mount  Tabor  must  come  in  as  the  fourth ;  and  if  the 
hand  is  spread  enough,  it  will  not  stretch  your  imagination  very  much 
to  consider  the  range  behind  which  Nazareth  lies  secluded,  as  the 
knuckle  of  the  little  finger.  The  first  high  point,  or  the  knuckle  of 
the  thumb,  is  the  hill  on  which  Jenin  is  perched.  The  mountains  of 
Galilee  are  on  the  north.  No  matter  what  point  you  choose  for  your 
lookout,  you  will  see  a  richly  cultivated  country.  The  whole  region  is 
hilly.  The  rocks  protrude  from  the  sides  of  the  hills  on  every  side. 
Nevertheless  every  spot  of  ground  from  the  bases  to  the  summits  pre- 
sents such  testimony  to  the  thrift  of  the  husbandman,  that  you  may 
reasonably  suspect  that  it  is  only  a  question  of  time  when  each  hill- 
top will  shoot  forth  some  great  aloe  stalk  with  a  wondrous  plumage  at 
its  head,  and  every  protruding  rock  prove  to  be  a  bulb  from  which  some 
new  glory  will  start  forth  to  add  fresh  beauty  to  the  delectable  land. 
How  glorious  it  must  have  been  in  Herod's  day,  when  villages  were  lo- 
cated on  the  terraced  hillsides,  not  only,  but  on  every  picturesque 
rise,  while  others  were  half  buried  in  the  dense  foliage  which  then 
adorned  the  land.  Every  valley  has  its  stream  even  now.  The  tiniest 
of  these  are  made  to  drive  the  wheels  of  some  primitive  flour-mill, 
when  one  would  think  they  would  do  the  country  more  service  if  they 
were  just  allowed  to  sing  their  way  down  to  the  sea.  You  may  see  the 
long  line  of  the  Mediterranean  on  the  left.  Once  in  a  while  you  will 
separate  your  delighted  vision  to  a  section  where  the  fields  of  golden 
grain,  the  flocks  of  sheep,  and  the  people  busied  in  the  fields,  make  you 
think  of  our  own  New  England  or  Middle  States.  We  turn  now  and 
face  the  north  and  west.  Besides  the  mountains  already  named,  far  be- 
yond are  the  spurs  of  the  Anti-Lebanon  range,  with  the  snowy  peaks  of 
Mount  Hermon  looking  like  the  light  surrounding  clouds.     The  east- 


ROUND  ABOUT  GALILEE.  283 

em  slopes  of  Gilboa  and  Little  Hermon  lead  your  mind  down  to  the 
long,  dark,  and  narrow  depression  which  marks  the  course  of  the  wind- 
ing Jordan,  and  another  depth  of  shadow,  at  that  distance  looking 
almost  as  round  as  a  well,  discloses  the  location  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee. 
At  your  feet,  beginning  as  soon  as  you  look  beyond  the  borders,  is  the 
most  lovely  plain  you  ever  saw.  It  has  been  well  called  the  Colos- 
seum of  Galilee.  It  is  a  nobler  than  Augustus  ever  planned.  The  rich 
carpeting  supplied  by  nature  is  indescribable.  There  are  no  fences  be- 
tween the  vast  undulating  plats  of  green  and  gold  and  pink  and  gray ; 
but  the  narrow  roads,  with  soil  as  red  as  the  shale  of  Northern  New 
Jersey,  mark  out  the  party  lines  for  the  Bedouin  husbandman.  A  sil- 
very stream,  whose  starting-point  cannot  be  made  out,  may  be  dis- 
cerned, finding  its  way  down  from  west  to  east.  It  is  the  river  Kishon, 
on  whose  borders  Sisera  was  defeated ;  where,  while  he  was  awearied 
and  asleep  Jael  drove  the  tent-pin  through  his  head  and  fastened  it  to 
the  ground ;  and  where  Elijah  slew  the  priests  of  Baal.  This  view  in 
the  spring  time  looks  like  one  glorious  garden  under  the  highest  state 
of  cultivation.  The  position  of  the  plain  supplies  the  key  to  its  bloody 
record.  It  is  a  broad  avenue,  and  has  drawn  into  its  narrow  limits  the 
Philistines  of  the  western  coast,  the  Israelites  of  the  eastern,  and  the 
Syrians  from  the  north.  Later  on  the  armies  of  the  Assyrians  and  of 
the  Egyptians  passed  and  repassed,  rested  and  manoeuvred,  previous 
to  the  awful  struggles  which  followed.  Even  Napoleon  here  pitted  his 
handful  against  the  Mussulman  horde  which  outnumbered  him  ten 
times  or  more.  It  has  always  been  the  main  avenue  for  ingress  and 
egress  of  the  nomadic  as  well  as  the  civilized  peoples,  who  combated 
each  other  that  they  might  possess  the  rich  land  surrounding.  Each 
neighboring  height  has  harbored  some  bloodthirsty  band,  every 
rocky  summit  has  borne  a  beacon  which  cheered,  worried,  or  set  to 
flight  some  wild  invading  force.  How  grand  must  have  been  the  sight 
when  iron  chariots  came  thundering  in  from  the  direction  of  Mount 
Carmel,  up  through  the  valley  of  the  Kishon,  until,  in  the  midst  of  the 
broad  arena,  the  armies  clashed ;  when  spears  and  javelins  and  arrows 
sounded  again  and  again  upon  the  glittering  brass  armor  and  as  often 
fell  broken  to  the  ground,  unless  those  who  wielded  them,  like  David, 
knew  how  to  strike  the  unprotected  spot.  There  was  no  smoke  of  bat- 
tle then.  It  was  all  bloody  hand  to  hand  conflict.  But  it  was  not 
always  the  bravest  who  won,  the  battle  was  not  always  to  the  strong. 


284  IN  8GBIPTUEE  LANDS. 

Men  were  not  always  in  command  either.  The  rocky  sides  of  Mount 
Tabor,  down  which  the  silvery  sounds  of  the  monastery  bell  now  roll 
into  the  plain,  carried  the  courageous  "  Up  !  "  of  Deborah  to  her  gen- 
eral Barak,  as  she  followed  on  to  lead  their  army  to  combat  with  Sisera, 
whose  nine  hundred  chariots  of  iron  and  all  the  people  that  were  with 
him  were  spread  over  the  plain. 

It  was  across  this  plain  that  Jael,  as  wild  and  fanatical  as  Saul  when 
in  pursuit  of  David,  drove  so  furiousl^r  when  on  the  search  for  King 
Joram.  Here  the  wounded  king's  inquiring  courtiers,  sent  out  from 
Jezreel  one  after  the  other,  were  met  with,  "  What  hast  thou  to  do 
with  peace  ?  turn  thee  behind  me ; "  here  Jehu  drew  a  bow  with  his 
full  strength  and  slew  Jehoram  as  the  king  rode  toward  him  in  the 
royal  chariot.  Once  upon  a  time  Pharaoh-Necho,  king  of  Egypt, 
organized  an  expedition  against  the  king  of  Assyria.  The  plain  of 
Esdraelon  offered  the  easiest  access  across  Palestine  from  the  Medi- 
terranean to  the  Euphrates.  Josiah,  the  then  king  of  Judah,  indig- 
nant at  this  act  of  trespass,  opposed  the  invader  and  was  slain.  Phar- 
aoh made  Josiah's  son  his  vassal  and  levied  tribute  upon  the  fair  land 
of  Judah.  Next  the  king  of  Babylon  came  with  his  rod  of  iron. 
Since  those  days,  Saracen  and  Crusader — the  man  of  Destiny  and  the 
man  of  Fate,  have  clashed  arms  on  the  soil  of  Esdraelon.  As  though 
the  bloody  flow  must  of  necessity  be  perennial,  each  year  the  husband- 
man makes  calculation,  when  he  tremblingly  sows  his  seed,  to  share  his 
harvest  and  his  flocks  with  the  outlaw  who  comes  from  beyond  the 
Jordan.  But  let  us  return  from  the  sad  recital  of  carnage  and  once 
more  contemplate  the  glories  of  Nature — glories  which  neither  war  nor 
time  have  deprived  of  one  whit  of  their  inheritance.  The  mountains 
and  the  towns  which  come  within  the  broad  encirclement  of  the  east- 
em  half  of  the  plain  are  what  interest  us  first.  Even  your  horse  seems 
to  feel  inspired  at  the  prospect  he  sees  of  nibbling  at  the  luxuriant 
growth  which  lines  the  bridle-paths  beyond.  But  a  hard  pull  comes 
before  he  can  reach  the  great  plain  of  Esdraelon,  for  we  have  a  pur- 
pose in  climbing  to  the  top  of  Mount  Gilboa  and  crossing  over  it, 
rather  than  going  around  it.  Its  summit  is  almost  bare.  On  the 
western  incline,  every  few  rods  there  is  a  square  well  or  pit  sunk  into 
the  solid  rock.  It  is  said  that  Joseph's  brethren  hid  him  in  one  of 
these  pits,  for  the  i:)lain  of  Dothan  is  only  a  short  distance  away  from 
the  base  of  the  mountain.     Such  pits  are  plenty  in  Palestine,  and  have 


BOUND  ABOUT  GALILEE. 


285 


been  sunk  to  catch  water  when  the  winter  torrents  come  rolling  down. 
They  have  been  provided  by  some  kindly  Jacob,  so  that  the  thirsty 
traveller  may  find  refreshment  on  the  way. 

The  range  of  mountains  known  as  Little  Hermon,  the  Fountain,  of 
Jezreel,  and  the  villages  of  Jezreel,  Shunem,  and  Endor  are  the  points 
of  interest  near  here. 
They  are  all  within 
an  hour  or  so  of  the 
summit  of  Mount 
Gilboa  —  all  wdthin 
the  borders  of  the 
l^lain  of  Esdraelon. 
There  are  only 
about  twenty  houses 
at  Jezreel  now,  and 
the  people  are  very 
squalid.  Yet  they 
support  an  ancient 
castle  where  they  in- 
sist upon  entertain- 
ing strangers  at 
their  own  expense. 
Their  hospitality 
does  not  create  a  de- 
sire to  remain  with  them  during  the  season,  but  the  view  from  the 
castle  tower  compensates  one  for  all  the  loss  of  appetite  caused  by  their 
curdled  goat's  milk  and  unleavened  bread.  It  affords  a  most  compre- 
hensive and  satisfactory  general  prospect  of  the  plain  and  its  sur- 
roundings. Westward  the  Carmel  ridge  may  be  followed  until  it  ter- 
minates at  the  sea;  in  the  distant  east  the  Jordan  line  is  made  out 
easily ;  Gilboa  seems  near  enough  for  you  to  so  strike  it  with  a  stone 
that  the  missile  would  rebound  and  reach  Little  Hermon  before  it  fell. 
The  great  mountain  walls  of  Bashan  and  of  Eglon  rise  in  the  far  east 
and  seem  to  forbid  any  search  beyond  them. 

Jezreel  must  also  have  received  a  Divine  visit.  Its  location  is  cen- 
tral, and  its  position  as  a  military  stronghold  admirable.  Its  approach 
is  from  the  east.  On  the  northeast  there  is  a  steep  cliff,  quite  a  hun- 
dred feet  in  height,  from  the  top  of  which  the  view  is  grand.    The 


The  Castle  of  Jezreel. 


286  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

Arabs  call  the  town  Zerin.  Their  houses  are  dreadfully  humble  and 
comfortless,  and  all  the  wealth  of  the  town  seems  to  have  been  used 
for  the  preservation  of  the  ancient  castle  which  stands  among  the 
houses.  No  one  seems  to  know  its  history.  It  must  be  very  ancient. 
Some  travellers  date  it  from  the  time  of  the  prophet  Elijah.  It  surely 
commands  a  prospect  within  which  some  of  the  most  wonderful  events 
of  sacred  history  have  taken  place.  It  seems  in  a  strang-e  place  among 
such  a  benighted  people,  and  serves  to  show  with  what  reverent  care 
they  preserve  what  they  consider  holy.  If  Ahab  and  his  four  hundred 
priests  worshipped  Astarte  here,  and  Herod  kept  up  the  unholy  rites, 
it  is  a  holy  place  in  the  eyes  of  the  present  dwellers  at  Jezr^el,  but 
none  the  more  holy  because  Jesus  did  missionary  work  among  their 
predecessors.  The  same  crescent  moon  that  shone  as  the  symbol  of 
Astarte  shines  for  Mohammed  their  prophet,  and  for  this  they  honor 
and  preserve  Jezreel's  castle. 

If  Mount  Gilboa  was  sheered  around  a  little  southward,  Bethshean 
could  be  seen  lying  close  to  the  Jordan,  about  half-way  to  where  the 
Little  Hermon  range  terminates  on  the  east,  where  Joseph's  children 
dwelt,  where  the  Philistines  gained  a  stronghold,  where  they  carried 
the  body  of  Saul  after  the  battle  of  Gilboa.  Jezreel  is  situated  on  a 
slight  rise  on  the  northern  side  of  Mount  Gilboa,  and  Shunem  is  north 
of  it  upon  the  southern  slope  of  Little  Hermon.  Shunem  commands 
the  whole  plain  as  far  as  Carmel.  It  is  a  much  livelier  place  than 
Jezreel,  but  the  people  are  not  nearly  so  hospitable.  It  is  probably 
because  they  are  much  better  off.  Their  houses  are  squalid  enough, 
but  they  have  some  lovely  gardens  where  there  are  lemon -trees  as 
large  as  pear-trees  and  all  manner  of  fruits  and  flowers,  which  send 
out  fragrance  much  more  grateful  than  the  treatment  you  receive 
at  the  hands  of  tho  grimy  populace.  Little  Hermon  [doubtless  the 
"  Hill  of  Moreh "  of  Gideon's  day]  backs  the  town,  and  probably  the 
cool  air  which  it  sends  down  gives  the  people  a  sort  of  summer-resort 
feeling,  makes  them  independent,  haughty,  and  overbearing.  The 
valley  which  lies  between  the  two  mountain  ridges  is  called  the  "  Open 
Gate,"  and  the  mountains  are  the  solid  posts  which  support  it.  It 
leads  straight  to  the  Jordan  and  passes  Bethshean  on  the  way. 

Not  only  has  this  region  of  Gilboa  changed  hands  many  times  since 
the  death  of  Saul,  but  the  country  itself  has  undergone  material 
changes.    When  Saul  fell.  Mount  Gilboa  was  clad  with  foliage.    When 


BOUND  ABOUT  GALILEE.  28T 

De  La  Brocquiere  yisited  the  neighborhood  in  a.d.  1432-33,  he  says 
"  the  plain  was  very  agreeable  from  its  gardens  filled  with  date-palm- 
trees  and  small  tufts  of  trees  planted  like  vines,  on  which  grows  the 
cotton.  At  sunrise  these  last  have  a  singular  effect,  and  seeing 
their  green  leaves  covered  with  cotton,  the  traveller  would  suppose  it 
had  snowed  on  them."  Manderell  describes  it  in  a.d.  1697  as  "  very 
fertile  but  uncultivated;  only  serving  the  Arabs  for  pasturage."  Sir 
John  Mandeville  [Kt.],  the  earliest  traveller  [a.d.  1322]  who  placed  his 
notes  on  record,  wrote  in  his  quaint  style,  as  follows :  "  And  a  myle 
fro  Jezrael  ben  the  Hilles  of  Gelboe,  where  Saul  and  Jonathas  that 
weren  so  faire,  dyeden — wherefore  David  cursed  hem  as  Holy  Wrytt 
seythe ;  Montes  Gelboe,  nee  Ros  nee  Pluvia  etc. ;  that  is  to  seye,  zee 
Hilles  of  Gelboe  nouther  Dew  ne  Reyn  com  upon  zon.  And  a  myle 
from  zee  Hilles  of  Gelboe  toward  the  Est  is  the  cytee  of  Crypole  that 
was  clept  before  Bethsayn.  And  upon  the  walles  of  that  cytee  was  the 
hed  of  Saul  honged."  There  is  not  a  strip  of  land  affording  just  such 
advantages  for  agriculture,  commerce,  and  trade,  in  our  whole  country 
as  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  and  yet  the  tillers  of  its  soil  are  the  nomads 
of  the  desert. 

Endor  lies  on  the  other  slope  of  the  mountain,  and  may  be  reached 
by  going  around  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  range ;  or,  as  some  pre- 
fer, by  following  the  road  which  leads  around  the  west  incline,  thus 
taking  Nain  in  on  the  way.  There  is  not  much  to  attract  one  to 
Endor,  except  the  number  of  caves  and  caverns  which  have  been  hewn 
in  the  cliffs  overlooking  the  village.  If  bats  are  witches,  as  some 
maintain,  and  witches  are  bats,  then  Endor  has  lost  none  of  its  antique 
reputation.  At  least  the  appearance  of  things  thereabouts  is  uncanny 
enough,  and  you  will  be  glad  to  spur  your  horse  back  toward  the 
fountain  of  Jezreel.  This  fountain  holds  the  next  interest  for  us.  It 
is  a  beauty  spot  and  a  natural  wonder.  When  on  Mount  Gilboa,  if  you 
have  a  guide  who  knows  the  country,  you  may  ride  northward  until 
you  come  to  the  point  where  the  mountain  abruptly  ends,  as  though  a 
section,  or  at  least  a  part  of  the  slope,  had  been  cut  away,  as  is  often 
the  case  in  railway  construction;  hold  your  guide's  hand  while  you 
look  over,  and  you  will  hear  the  trickling  of  water,  the  splashing  of 
cattle,  and  the  voices  of  their  chattering  attendants.  They  are  all  a 
hundred  feet  below  you,  where  is  a  wide  cavern  walled  by  conglomer- 
ate rock,  from  which  the  waters  break  forth  with  sufficient  force  to  turn 


288 


/iV  SGBIPTURE  LANDS. 


a  little  mill.     There  is  the  fountain  of  Jezreel.     The  rocky  sides  and  the 
top  of  the  cavern  are  lined  with  ferns,  and  water-plants  abound.     The 

water  flows  perenni- 
-     .        -        : "~  ally.     After  emerg- 

ing- from  its  source 
the  stream  widens 
into  a  small  lake 
and  feeds  one  of  the 
winding  tributaries 
which  contribute  to 
the  waters  of  the 
Jordan.  The  hus- 
bandmen of  the 
plain  of  Esdraelon 
bring  their  cattle 
and  their  flocks  here 
to  drink,  but  they 
guard  them  well,  for 
the  visits  of  the  in- 
vader are  still  fre- 
quent. It  was  just 
so  three  thousand 
years  ago  or  more. 
Many  a  fierce  com- 
bat was  given  the 
swarthy  outlaws  by 
the  owners  of  the  soil,  but  still  they  ravaged  in  all  quarters,  wherever 
they  could  gain  a  foothold.  Gideon  took  up  the  sword  in  defence  of  his 
peoi^le,  and  at  this  very  fountain  chose  his  band  of  three  hundred  by 
the  way  in  which  they  laiiped  the  water.  The  sounding  trumpets,  the 
broken  pitchers,  and  the  blazing  torches  caused  the  foe  to  rush  pell-mell 
down  toward  the  Jordan,  whence  they  came.  It  is  not  safe  for  a  stranger 
to  travel  in  this  region  alone,  unless  the  principal  routes  are  followed,  for 
there  is  a  thieving  set  of  Bedouin  hereabouts.  They  are  not  so  polite  eith- 
er as  our  own  generous  American  gentlemen  of  the  road.  They  do  not  care 
very  much  whether  you  "  hold  up  your  hands  "  or  not.  They  surround 
you  and  *'  take  what  Allah  sends."  They  are  not  always  particular  either 
to  leave  the  pocket  with  you  which  once  held  your  i^urse.    They  take  all. 


Mount  Gilboa  and  the  Fountain  of  Jezreel. 


ROUND  ABOUT  GALILEE. 


289 


Our  journey  now  leads  us  around  the  shoulder  of  Mount  Gilboa, 
and  then  along  the  red-soiled  roads  through  the  fields  of  delicate  pink 
and  green  and  golden  until  Shunem  is  reached,  that  being  the  proper 
"  station  "  for  the  noontide  rest  and  lunch.  The  town  is  entered  by  a 
long  avenue  of  monstrous  prickly-pear  plants  whose  horrid  arms  reach 
out  on  all  sides  like  grim  spectres  and  seem  to  have  been  marshalled 
there  to  protect  the  unsightly  town  whose  ugliness  they  hide.  It  is 
not  all  ugly  at  Shunem,  however,  for  some  i)retty  gardens  are  there. 


The  Fountain  of  Jezreel  toward  the  Jordan. 


In  one  of  them  I  saw  a  quantity  of  lemon-trees  as  high  as  apple-trees, 
with  all  stages  of  fruitage  going  on,  from  the  fragrant  blossom  and 
tiny  green  fruit,  to  the  ripe  ovals  of  gold  which  hung  from  the  sturdy 
branches  in  great  abundance.  Luncheon  was  taken  beneath  these 
trees.  The  spicy  odor  i^ervaded  the  shade  and  gave  appetite  for  our 
menu.  A  cheery  little  brook  coursed  by,  rustling  palm  branches 
fanned  the  air.  Through  the  huge  cacti  which  protruded  in  all  direc- 
tions the  Arab  women  could  be  seen  beating  their  clothing  on  stones 

at  the  brookside.     Once  in  a  while  the  bright  eyes  of  a  pretty  baby 
19 


290  I]^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

face  peered  through  at  the  "  white  sheikh ;  "  flowers  of  a  hundred  shapes 
and  tints  huddled  beneath  the  shadows  of  the  tall,  abounding  thistles 
then  in  the  glory  of  their  pink  plumage.  A  veritable  "  garden  of 
spices,"  surely.  Just  on  the  border  of  this  lovely  scene  is  a  square 
structure  which  was  erected  for  "  hospitality."  Heaven  protect  the 
traveller  who  accepts  its  lively  companionship,  unless  he  be  a  most  en- 
thusiastic and  self-sacrificing  entomologist.  It  served  as  a  good  place 
for  the  camera,  however,  while  a  view  of  the  town  was  captured.  In 
the  view  is  a  house  with  "  a  little  chamber  on  the  wall "  such  as  the 
"  great  woman  "  of  old  made  for  Elisha.  These  little  chambers  are  not 
infrequently  found  here.  They  are  used  for  the  same  purpose  as  are 
the  arbors  made  of  canebrake  which  we  may  see  at  Magdala,  and  those 
made  of  boughs  at  Csesarea  Philippi.  They  are  much  more  comfort- 
able to  the  sojourner,  especially  in  hot  weather,  than  the  ground  floors 
of  the  dwellings  in  Shunem  are.  In  some  such  a  place  the  kindly 
prophet  was  made  comfortable  with  his  bed  and  table  and  stool  and 
candlestick.  A  good  view  of  the  surrounding  fields  is  had  from  the 
village  "  hospitality  "  quarters ;  it  must  embrace  the  spot  where  the 
poor  little  child  was  sunstruck — where  he  cried  out  "  My  head — my 
head !  " — where  the  father  said,  "  Carry  him  to  his  mother."  A  single 
glance  to  the  northward  reveals  the  gray  outlines  of  Mount  Carmel, 
with  all  the  intervening  plain  over  which  that  heart-broken  mother 
hurried  the  saddled  ass — where  Gehazi  ran  to  meet  her — where  she 
fell  at  the  prophet's  feet — where  they  all  hastened  back  to  the  chamber 
of  death — where  the  blessed  mother  again  held  the  promised  child  to 
her  bosom,  alive  and  well.  The  best  near  prospect  from  the  Shunem 
housetops,  however,  is  in  the  opposite  direction,  and  takes  in  that 
peculiar  range  known  as  "Little  Hermon,"  the  outlines  of  which 
are  included  in  the  view  on  page  280.  The  name  "Little  Hermon" 
was  given  some  fifteen  hundred  years  ago  to  distinguish  it  from  "  Mount 
Hermon,"  the  mount  of  Transfiguration,  whose  snow-capped  summit 
can  almost  always  be  seen  from  Shunem.  Little  Hermon  is  shape- 
less and  barren,  and  holds  no  historical  interest,  yet  it  provides  an 
attractive  feature  in  the  landscape  always.  It  presents  its  best  side 
toward  Shunem.  No  Roman  bastion  or  tower  seems  to  have  been  placed 
upon  its  peak,  nor  are  there  traces  of  antique  architecture  or  of  modern 
village  to  be  found  there,  though  it  presents  as  choice  a  coign  of  van- 
tage as  its  neighbors*.     Perhaps  the  difficulty  of  reaching  it  barred  the 


BOUND  ABOUT  GALILEE.  291 

approach  of  Herod's  minions,  just  as  it  repels  the  modem  traveller.  It 
is  a  wonder  that  the  genius  of  tradition  has  not  clothed  it  with  some 
interest.  For  once,  there  are  more  mountains  than  are  needed  to  go 
around,  and  more  history  will  have  to  be  supplied  before  this  super- 
fluous range  can  be  made  available  otherwise  than  as  a  protection  to 
the  wonderful  neighborhood  which  it  overtops  so  majestically. 

None  of  the  generosity  which  characterized  the  "  great  lady  "  of 
Shunem  seems  to  mould  the  conduct  of  the  modem  Shunamite  toward 
the  stranger ;  for  when  I  plucked  a  single  lemon-blossom  from  a  tree 
overhead,  to  send  to  America  in  a  letter  I  had  just  written  to  a  little  girl, 
one  of  the  nabobs  of  the  town,  who  had  stood  watching  my  comrades 
and  me  while  we  partook  of  our  luncheon  beneath  the  fragrant  shade  of 
his  trees,  flew  at  me  in  a  great  rage  and  demanded  "  backsheesh."  I 
had  proven  myself  to  be  a  thief  as  well  as  a  trespasser,  and  it  turned 
out  to  be  one  of  those  occasions  where  I  found  myself  unable  to  dis- 
pense justice.  I  referred  the  case  to  my  wise  dragoman,  who  had 
quite  an  altercation  in  my  defence.  Evidently  the  modern  Shunamite 
imbibes  all  the  spiciness  of  his  splendid  gardens,  but  evinces  only  a 
rare  bit  of  their  sweetness. 

From  Shunem  to  Nain  is  a  ride  of  but  a  short  hour.  The  western 
base  of  Little  Hermon  is  on  one  side  and  the  broad  expanse  of  the 
valley  of  Jezreel  is  on  the  other.  Ah !  what  breath,  what  freedom 
there  is  in  this  fenceless  country !  You  may  never  take  it  upon  yourself 
to  persuade  your  all-too-willing  stallion  to  gallop  up  the  mountain  in- 
cline whence  the  rounded  basaltic  spurs  protrude,  or  to  carry  you  like 
Tam  O'Shanter  flying  over  the  plain,  but  it  makes  you  feel  very  free 
to  know  that  you  can  do  so  if  you  should  happen  to  have  the  desire. 
As  soon  as  Little  Hermon  is  passed.  Mount  Tabor  is  seen  finely,  and 
the  prospect  widens.  Then,  soon  after,  the  gilt  cross  on  the  convent  of 
Nain  is  observed  catching  the  shimmering  light.  Few  and  poor 
enough  are  the  houses  of  Nain.  Heaps  of  rubbish  and  the  rough 
quarried  debris  of  better  days  surround  the  memorable  town,  and  then 
there  are  the  prickly  pears.  The  nearest  hillside  abounds  with  rock 
tombs.  Among  them  the  tripod  was  planted  for  a  view.  The  old 
walls  in  the  foreground  provided  the  aesthetic  portion  of  the  combina- 
tion, while  the  convent  brought  up  the  average  of  the  village  architect- 
ure included ;  a  neglected  Mohammedan  tomb  (which  looked  suffi- 
ciently "  antique  "  to  be  that  of  the  son  of  the  dear  old  widow)  with  its 


292 


IJSr  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


domed  roof  also  comes  in.  Mount  Tabor  appears  in  the  distance — 
always  recognized  by  its  segment-like  outline.  Nain  must  have  been 
quite  a  city  in  its  best  days,  and  the  traces  of  walls  roundabout  show 
that  it  was  walled.     There  is  nothing  cheerful-looking  about  it  now. 


(      i  1  if 


h 


Mount  Tabor  from  Nain.     The  Convent. 

however.  A  number  of  shrines  and 
"  holy  places  "  are  dotted  about,  and 
it  is  a  great  i)lace  for  devotees.  You  place  your  "  backsheesh  "  in 
the  slot  and  then,  sometimes  an  old  Moslem  dervish,  at  others  a  Latin 
or  Greek  monk,  makes  his  api)earance  and  delivers  his  little  theory 
with  a  diluted  fervor  which  makes  you  turn  to  nature  for  any  satisfac- 
tion which  may  come  from  your  visit.  The  landscape  has  not  changed 
feature  very  much  since  Jesus  "  came  nigh  to  the  gate  of  the  city."  It 
would  seem  more  hallowed  on  account  of  your  remembrance  of  the  sad 


ROUND  ABOUT  GALILEE.  293 

and  sacred  story  for  which  Nain  is  famed,  were  it  not  for  the  constant 
repetition  of  it  by  the  fanatics  who  make  their  livelihood  by  their  ef- 
forts to  keep  the  memories  fresh. 

The  hired  howling"  at  a  Moslem  funeral  does  not  send  the  reason 
flying  more  speedily  than  the  dismal  drone  of  the  "  holy  "  creatures 
who  infest  almost  every  sacred  site.  There  is  no  end  to  the  variety  of 
such  people  which  comes  to  a  "  holy  "  place  like  Nain,  especially  dur- 
ing the  season  which  draws  pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  the  world  to  at- 
tend the  Easter  services  in  Jerusalem  or  to  bathe  in  the  Jordan. 
Some  curious  pilgrims  are  found  in  such  gatherings.  I  once  met  a 
party  of  Moors  who  had  come  all  the  way  from  Morocco  on  foot. 
Although  Mohammed  was  their  "prophet,"  ihej  were  travelling  ac- 
cording to  the  divine  orders  given  by  Jesus  to  the  "  other  seventy," 
when  he  "  sent  them  two  and  two  before  his  face  into  every  city  and 
place  whither  he  himself  would  come,"  in  so  far  as  to  "  carry  neither 
purse  nor  scrij),  nor  shoes,"  and  the  injunction  to  "  eat  such  things  as 
are  set  before  you  "  went.  A  little  experience  with  them  convinced  me 
that  the  manners  of  the  road  had  not  changed  here  very  much  since 
the  "  seventy "  were  commanded  to  "  salute  no  man  by  the  way,"  for 
a,  wayside  salute  requires  considerable  time — somewhat  thus  : 

Ali:  "KaifHalak?"     [How  are  you  ?] 

Yusef :  "  Mob  sooteen."  [Spread  out.]  Then  both  say :  "  Salaam 
— ah — laykoom."     [Peace  be  unto  you.] 

Ali  :  "  Kaif  el  Mahrooseen  ?  "     [How  are  the  preserved  of  God  ?] 

Yusef :  "  Ye  kobbiloc  yeday  koomar  !  "     [They  kiss  youi-  hands.] 

Ali :  "  Mashallah  !  "     [The  will  of  God  be  done.] 

Yusef:  "Hamdillah!"     [Praise  to  God.] 

Ali  :  "  Bismillah  !  "     [In  the  name  of  God.] 

Both:  "Tyeeb."     [Good— very  good.] 

Again  both  :  "  Salaam."     [Farewell.] 

During  the  process,  hand-shaking  is  repeatedly  indulged  in,  with  as 
frequent  a  change  of  attitude,  and  all  with  great  dignity  and  delibera- 
tion. Among  intimate  friends,  kissing  on  each  cheek  is  permissible 
and  usual.  Notwithstanding  their  ragged  and  intentionally  dependent 
condition,  these  pilgrims  all  had  intelligent  faces,  and  one  of  them 
could  speak  French  fluently.  They  were  in  real  earnest,  and  seemed  to 
have  a  high  appreciation  of  their  "  divine  errand."  They  declared  that 
they  had  received  "  willing  and  abundant  hospitality  "  ever  since  they 


294-  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

had  departed  from  their  homes,  and  that  although  they  had  come  by 
the  way  of  the  Sinai  peninsula  and  Akabah,  in  no  one  case  had  they 
been  compelled  to  "  wipe  off  the  dust "  against  any  place  or  people. 
Such  "  very  religious  "  men  are  found  everywhere.  They  do  not  visit 
a  place  like  Nain  because  its  memory  is  linked  with  one  of  the  most 
touching  miracles  of  Christ,  but  because  it  is  inhabited  by  a  few  fa- 
natical Moslems  who  are  sure  to  make  them  welcome,  and  with  whom 
they  can  rejoice  over  the  downfall  of  the  "  Christian  dog." 

An  Arab  funeral  is  one  of  the  most  pathetic  of  sights.  Although 
you  know  beforehand  that  the  howling  and  mourning  accompanying 
the  services  are  usually  hired  by  the  hour,  they  are  so  effectively  per- 
formed that  your  sympathies  are  enlisted  in  spite  of  yourself.  The  paid 
mourners  come  first  in  the  funeral  procession,  and  they  are  usually 
women.  Their  number  is  governed  very  much  by  the  same  circum- 
stances which  regulate  the  number  of  carriages  at  some  of  the  funer- 
als in  our  own  land.  If  Achmed  Bedawi  hired  a  dozen  mourners  at  the 
recent  funeral  of  his  fourth  wife,  when  a  child  or  a  wife  of  Hassan  Ali 
is  to  be  buried  there  will  be  at  least  thirteen  mourners  ;  for,  although 
Hassan  is  not  quite  as  wealthy  as  Achmed,  his  family  pride  requires 
that  he  should  have  "  quite  as  good  a  funeral."  Clothed  in  white  and 
tossing  their  arms  frantically  aloft,  the  hideous  creatures  come.  They 
part  the  air  with  their  large  handkerchiefs  and  give  forth  the  most 
dreadful  howls  with  imposing  fervor.  The  real  mourners  can  only  be 
traced  by  the  slight  response  they  give  to  the  shrieks  of  those  who  are 
under  their  pay.  A  motley  crowd  of  men  and  boys  follow  the  women, 
and  some  of  them  carry  the  bier  on  their  shoulders.  Others  chant  a 
sort  of  a  dirge  which  is  led  by  the  beating  of  a  drum,  and  many  carry 
flags.  All  the  sadness  possible  is  put  into  their  voices — "  No  God  but 
God,  and  Mohammed  is  his  prophet "  is  the  funeral  cry,  "  Allah ! 
Allah  !  Allah  !  Allah  !  "  is  the  doleful  response.  Talking  and  laughing 
are  interspersed.  At  the  grave,  all  gather  around  and  share  in  the 
bowing,  swaying,  and  moaning,  and  swirling  until  they  are  tired,  when 
the  grave  is  filled  and  the  howling  ceremony  is  repeated  while  the  pro- 
cession returns.  Some  such  scene  as  this  must  have  met  the  eyes  'of 
Jesus,  and  excited  his  Divine  pity,  as  he  approached  the  city  gate  of 
Nain.  He  restored  an  only  son  to  his  mother  just  as  Elisha  had  done 
over  nine  hundred  years  previously  in  the  little  town  of  Shunem,  but  a 
short  distance  across  the  plain  from  Nain.     The  difference  in  treatment 


BOUND  ABOUT  GALILEE. 


295 


and  regard  between  the  boys  and  girls  practised  by  the  people  who 
live  in  Palestine  now  is  in  striking-  contrast  with  that  of  Jesus  who 
expressed  the  same  sympathy  for  the  distinguished  Jairus  when 
his  "  one  only  daughter  lay  a-dying  "  as  he  did  with  the  "  great  lady  of 
Nain,"  for  the  lit- 
tle girls  in  Syria 
do  not  receive  very 
much  considera- 
tion and  love  from 
their  Mohamme- 
dan parents,  as  a 
rule.  When  a  girl 
is  born  in  to  a  fam- 
ily there  is  about 
the  same  amount 
of  howling  as  there 
is  at  a  funeral.  The 
neighboring  wom- 
en come  in  to  con- 
dole  with  the 
mother  over  "the 
dreadful  misfor- 
tune which  has 
happened  to  the 
family,"  and  they 
"wonder  what 
great  sin  the  fath- 
er has  committed, 

to  be  punished  by  having  a  daughter  bom."  The  helpless  little  one  also 
comes  in  for  her  full  share  of  the  fault-finding.  If  two  women  are 
journeying  together  with  their  children  and  the  little  girl  becomes 
tired  or  sick,  the  mother  is  urged  by  her  companion  to  "  throw  her 
away,  because  she  is  only  a  bint  and  not  worth  any  trouble."  A 
"  bint  "  is  a  girl.  There  is  a  proverb  among  these  people  that  "  "When 
a  girl  is  bom,  the  stone  of  the  threshold  of  the  house  weeps  forty 
days."  As  she  grows  up,  the  little  girl  is  cursed,  kicked,  and  abused. 
She  is  apt  to  see  her  own  mother  treated  in  the  same  way,  and  she 
learns  to  take  it  for  granted  that  it  is  to  be  her  fate.     Ask  her  father 


Syrian  Girls — Nazleh  and  Mernnon. 


IN  SGBIPTURE  LANDS. 

how  many  children  he  has,  and  if  she  is  his  only  child,  to  your  aston- 
ishment he  will  answer,  "  Not  any."  Inquire  to  whom  the  little  girl 
belongs  and  he  will  answer,  "  Oh  !  she  is  nothing  but  a  bint — we  don't 
count  her."  Wlien  a  boy  is  born  there  is  a  different  state  of  things. 
All  the  neighbors  come  and  compliment  the  father  and  rejoice  with 
him,  and  the  father  immediately  changes  his  name,  for  the  fathers  are 
always  named  after  their  eldest  sons.  Aboo  means  son,  so  if  the  baby 
boy  is  named  Salim,  then  his  father  becomes  Aboo-Salim  [the  father 
of  Salim],  though  his  name  previously  may  have  been  Mohammed. 
But  if  no  sons  are  born  to  him  he  is  condemned  to  bear  the  name 
which  was  given  him  at  his  birth.  Sometimes,  when  he  is  beloved  by 
his  neighbors  and  holds  an  honorable  place  in  society,  he  is  allowed  to 
take  the  name  he  would  have  named  his  son  if  he  had  had  a  son.  If  a 
Mohammedan  is  away  from  home  he  will  never  think  of.  writing  to  his 
wife  or  daughter,  but  always  addresses  his  letters  to  his  son.  I  often 
saw  my  dragoman  do  this  ;  and  although  much  of  the  letter  was  for  his 
wife,  it  was  addressed  to  his  son  who  was  but  seven  years  old. 

Not  more  than  a  dozen  miles  from  Nain,  there  is  a  hopelessly  deso- 
late little  town  which  can  be  seen  from  half  a  dozen  places  already 
mentioned  in  these  journeyings.  It  is  noted  in  history.  It  is  almost 
north  of  Nain  and  well  worth  a  visit.  If  you  journey  there  early  in  the 
morning,  your  horse  ought  to  carry  you  from  Nain  in  less  than  three 
hours.  It  is  the  place  where  Christ  met  the  rejoicing  wedding-party 
and  performed  his  first  miracle — Cana  of  Galilee.  I  do  not  know  of  a 
ride  in  Palestine,  of  its  length,  which  is  more  lovely  and  which  presents 
so  many  points  of  interest  as  this  does.  There  are  two  or  even  three 
routes.  One  leads  across  the  plain,  then  up  the  hills  to  Nazareth,  and 
thence  northward ;  the  second  leads  to  the  base  of  Mount  Tabor,  and 
then  passing  around  its  western  side  joins  presently  with  the  road 
which  comes  up  from  Nazareth.  The  third  way  is  the  one  I  shall  en- 
deavor to  describe.  Before  you  get  fairly  down  into  the  plain  you  may 
see  the  rosy  light  coming  over  the  Anti-Lebanon  range,  tipping  the 
minarets  of  Jezreel  and  Shunem  as  you  pass  them  in  turn.  Gilboa 
and  Little  Hermon  will  also  have  their  feathery,  ]iink-hued  caps  upon 
them,  and  before  long  the  heavy  dewdrops  which  your  galloping  horse 
sends  flying  into  the  air  will  likewise  catch  the  infection  of  glory  and 
glow  before  you  like  the  rosy  scintillations  of  the  electric  spark.  For 
easier  riding  you  may  take  the  central  lead  vi\}  the  valley  of  Jezreel, 


BOUND  ABOUT  GALILEE.  297 

and  have  the  company  of  the  little  stream.  Before  the  hour  is  all 
gone  you  come  to  the  fountain  of  Jezreel,  on  your  right,  and  begin  to 
meet  the  modern  young  Gideons  as  they  come  back  to  the  pastures 
with  their  flocks  after  watering  them  at  the  fountain.  A  little  light 
goes  out  of  the  scene  now,  or,  more  properly,  the  full  measure  of  light 
has  not  yet  arrived  for  the  day,  for  a  low  line  of  fog  is  seen  hanging 
lazily  ahead.  It  has  followed  the  stream  up  from  the  Jordan,  and  hav- 
ing finished  its  night-work  awaits  the  coming  of  the  king  of  day  to 
give  it  the  vanishing  signal.  As  you  stop  to  water  your  horse  at  the 
fountain  you  cast  your  eyes  upward  to  see  if  you  can  make  out  the 
outlines  of  the  ruins  on  Mount  Tabor.  The  fog  is  circling  around  the 
summit  uneasily  and  purposelessly,  and,  yes !  there,  peering  through 
it,  looking  five  times  their  real  height,  their  fine  details  brought  out 
by  the  morning  light  and  the  blue  background  of  the  sky,  are  the  gray 
towers  and  bastions  placed  there  by  the  crusaders;  the  fog  is  also 
driving  through  the  wdde  arch  of  Bab-el-Hawa,  the  "  Gate  of  the 
Wind."  It  is  a  magnificent  sight,  well  worth  the  early  rising  and  the 
ride  over  here  to  see.  Fording  the  stream  you  now  push  your  horse 
up  toward  Tabor  and  above  the  fog  line.  A  look  back  is  well  worth 
while.  All  is  clear  above  you.  The  sky  is  as  blue  as  the  ocean,  the 
valley  is  in  about  as  great  a  tumult  as  the  sea,  for  the  sun  has  given 
marching  orders  and  the  process  of  evacuation  is  going  on.  No  time 
is  taken  to  marshal  the  white  multitude  into  companies  or  battalions. 
In  a  way  all  their  own,  like  camels  in  a  caravan,  each  division  bundles 
up  its  properties,  swings  to  and  fro  for  a  little  time,  and  then — disap- 
pears. 

Nain  and  Shunem  and  Jezreel  all  rise  uj)  in  the  distance  and  seem 
to  be  floating  amid  and  above  the  tumult.  Turning  your  back  to 
them  you  soon  place  Mount  Tabor  between  you,  and  hurry  on  through 
its  chill  shadow,  northward  and  westward,  until  you  reach  its  other 
side.  Away  over,  on  your  right,  is  another  billowy  sea.  It  is  a  con- 
tribution to  the  morning's  pleasures  from  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  In  half 
an  hour  now  you  will  see,  on  the  left,  a  hill  topped  by  a  little  village — 
Seffurieh,  the  ancient  Sepphoris,  and  all  that  remains  of  the  old-time 
capital  of  Galilee.  It  was  quite  an  important  place  until  Herod  Anti- 
pas  came  into  power  and  made  Tiberias  the  seat  of  government.  The 
caravan  tracks  which  cut  across  the  country  now  bewilder  you  some- 
what, for  you  may  not  know  which  one  to  choose.     Fear  not,  however. 


IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


General  View  from  the  West.     (Drawn  from  nature.) 


Cana  in  Galilee.     (After  a  photograph 
by  Bonfils.) 

they  all  lead  to  the  Mec- 
ca of  the  present  expe- 
dition ;    if  the  face  is 

kept  well  toward  the  northwest  and  there  is  no  inclination  to  follow  Jor- 
danward  you  will  come  out  all  right.  Here  and  there  you  will  meet  a 
group  of  women  with  bundles  of  twigs  on  their  heads.  Already  they 
have  been  up  the  side  of  Mount  Tabor  among  the  scrub  oaks,  where 
they  gathered  the  scraggy  merchandise  which  they  are  now  carrying  to 
the  wood  market  in  Nazareth.  How  foolishly  they  hide  their  ugly 
faces  with  their  faded  blue  garments ;  for  not  expecting  to  meet  the 
"  evil  eye  "  of  the  Christian  so  early  in  the  morning  they  have  risked  it 
without  their  horrid  face  veils.  And  now  the  scene  grows  still  more 
animated,  for  men  and  boys,  and  women  too,  are  met  driving  long  lines. 


BOUND  ABOUT  GALILEE.  299 

of  asses  laden  with  newly  cut  grass,  also  toward  Nazareth.  In  the 
proper  season  figs  and  olives  must  take  the  place  of  grass,  for  the  trees 
abound.  The  narrow  plain  which  opens  up  is  inexpressibly  beautiful 
and  provides  the  space  for  a  last  gallop  before  reaching  the  almost  de- 
serted village  of  Cana  of  Galilee,  known  to  the  Arabs  as  Kefr  Kenna. 
The  chief  entrance  to  the  town  resembles  that  of  Shunem — a  lane  sided 
by  thickly  set  prickly  pear  plants.  The  houses  remind  you  of  those  at 
Magdala.  They  are  of  mud  and  stone,  surrounded  by  the  refuse  of  the 
stable,  and  with  miserably  constructed  arbors  of  cane-brake  on  their 
imsafe  roofs.  They  look  to  be  in  the  last  state  of  ruin,  yet  there  are 
plenty  of  ruins  of  an  earlier  date  and  of  a  better  grade  lying  around  in 
every  direction.  An  old  sarcophagus  serves  as  the  public  water-trough, 
and  is  kept  supplied  by  a  cheery  little  stream  which  comes  from  a 
neighboring  spring.  "  Dutch  "  ovens  smeared  with  mud  are  standing 
near  some  of  the  houses.  They  might  be  taken  for  tombs,  only  they 
are  not  whitewashed.  Of  course  such  a  site  would  not  be  neglected  by 
that  useful  class  who  keep  the  links  of  history  together,  the  monks ; 
so  you  will  find  a  Franciscan  church  at  Cana,  humble,  as  usual,  but  far 
superior  to  any  of  its  neighboring  structures.  The  attendant  will 
show  you  some  water-jars,  after  the  precise  pattern  of  those  used  by 
the  girls  at  the  fountain  on  the  way,  "  the  ones  actually  used  in  the 
miracle."  These  same  jars  are  shown  at  the  church  of  St.  Ursula  in 
Cologne  as  well  as  at  Rome,  so  that  in  some  way  or  other  the  record 
has  not  been  properly  kept  and  the  authorities  conflict. 

There  is  not  much  else  to  hold  the  interest  in  Cana  except  the  views. 
Down  toward  Nazareth  and  over  in  the  direction  of  Mount  Tabor  they 
are  particularly  fine.  The  hills  are  not  so  high,  so  steep,  nor  so  bare 
as  those  in  Lower  Galilee.  They  are  usually  wooded  to  their  summits, 
and  fall  gradually  down  to  the  valleys.  There  is  not  the  appearance  of 
thrift  that  there  is  about  Nain  and  Shunem,  for  the  reason  perhaps  that 
the  neighborhood  is  infested  more  by  wandering  marauders  who  care 
nothing  for  the  cultivation  of  crops  so  long  as  they  find  pasture  for 
their  flocks.  Outlawry  renders  it  impossible  for  the  native  peasantry  to 
cajole  sufficient  from  the  soil,  rich  though  it  is,  to  stand  up  under  a  semi- 
annual raid  and  the  taxation  of  the  "  poor  man  "  too.  It  was  different 
when  Naphtali  held  possession  here,  for  he  was  "  satisfied  with  favor 
and  full  with  the  blessing  of  the  Lord."  The  numerous  wine-presses 
found  on  the  way,  cut  in  the  rocks  j  the  remains  of  ancient  aqueducts 


300  /iV^  SGBIPTUEE  LANDS. 

rising:  in  the  air,  and  sometimes  pipes  sunk  in  channels  chiselled  in  the 
rocky  sides  of  the  hills,  remind  one  of  Petra  and  give  proof  that  a 
refined  civilization  once  held  power  here.  "  Likewise  as  it  was  also  in 
the  days  of  Lot ;  they  did  eat,  they  drank,  they  bought,  they  sold,  they 
planted,  they  builded."  What  "  destroyed  them  all  ?  "  I  made  such 
an  excursion  last  a  whole  day  once  upon  a  time.  When  I  returned, 
the  sun  was  setting,  gloriously,  and  the  moon,  three-quarters  full,  had 
just  come  up  timidly  over  the  Anti-Lebanon  range.  Thin  clouds,  gray 
and  silverlike,  gathered  around  the  moon,  their  inner  borders  formed 
somewhat  like  a  star.  The  planet  seemed  sunken,  like  an  image  in 
an  intaglio,  and  the  background  of  the  sky  was  gloriously  blue.  A 
weakly  glimmer  of  sunlight  still  hung  over  the  trees  on  the  long  dis- 
tant inclines,  and  a  warm  glow  lingered  upon  the  tops  of  the  nearer 
mountains.  The  details  of  the  higher  peaks,  however,  had  already  dis- 
appeared in  the  filmy  haze  which  was  rising  from  the  valleys  between 
the  ranges,  so  that  they  seemed  like  mere  screens  with  scolloped 
edges  pushed  up  toward  the  sky.  The  red  and  gold  and  green  and 
gray  were  all  increased  in  value  by  the  shadowy  blacks,  which  fell 
wherever  the  least  depression  gave  them  a  chance.  The  shadowed 
olive-trees  in  the  foreground  strengthened  the  feeling  that  the  end  of 
the  day  had  come  and  the  fellahin  returning  from  the  fields,  urging 
their  flocks  along,  contributed  unwittingly  to  the  harmony  of  the  de- 
lightful phantasmagoria.  All  overhead  was  blue.  The  clouds  were 
thinner  then,  and  the  light,  still  strong  above  them,  imparted  the  azure 
tint  of  the  sky  to  them — all  were  delicate  blue.  The  soft  breezes 
which  came  over  made  a  sound  in  the  air  like  the  swirling  of  the  water 
in  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  Then  the  sun  disappeared  and  only  the  moon 
gave  light  to  the  picture. 

During  two  days  Mount  Tabor  was  always  in  sight.  If  we  turn 
from  Mount  Hermon  for  the  site  of  the  Transfiguration,  we  must  look 
to  Mount  Tabor.  After  their  visit  to  Caesarea  the  Divine  Traveller  and 
his  disciples  returned  to  Capernaum  and  sojourned  a  while  before 
visiting  the  cities  of  Decapolis.  Mount  Tabor  could  have  been  visited 
en  route  at  either  time.  It  is  only  two  thousand  feet  in  height,  but  its 
isolated  position  gives  it  a  commanding  appearance  from  all  direc- 
tions. To  the  very  summit  it  is  thickly  wooded  with  walnut,  oak,  pis- 
tachio, and  rose.  Some  of  its  inclines  are  so  rocky  and  so  steep  that 
one  intuitively  dismounts  and  relieves  his  horse  until  the  climb  is 


ROUND  ABOUT  GALILEE. 


301 


easier.  There  are  ruins  on  the  top,  dating-  at  least  from  the  time  of 
the  crusades,  and  there  is  an  old  gateway  remaining,  which  the  Arabs 
call  "  Bab-el-Hawa  "  (the  Gate  of  the  Wind).  A  convent  on  the  summit 
is  inhabited  by  a  few  monks  w^ho  entertain  the  strangers  that  visit 
there. 


Mount  Tabor. 


Although  the  views  are  wide  and  fine,  yet,  looking  off,  one  is  im- 
pressed with  the  thought  that  it  is  the  peculiar  situation  of  Mount 
Tabor  which  gives  it  the  appearance  of  great  altitude.  The  outlook 
extends  into  Galilee,  over  the  mountains  of  Samaria,  across  to  Perea, 
and  up  to  Mount  Hermon,  besides  including  all  the  glories  of  the  land 
intervening— Safed,  the  "Horns  of  Hattin,"  Nazareth,  the  deep  de- 
pression of  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  and  the  mountains  of  Moab,  which  rise 
beyond  the  Jordan  like  palisades.      Indeed  there  is  no  grander  view 


302  IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

than  the  near  expanse  south  of  this  famed  mountain.  The  vast  culti- 
vated plain  of  Esdraelon  sweeps  its  base ;  the  towns  of  Jezreel,  Nain, 
Shunem,  and  Endor,  as  we  have  seen,  are  all  within  the  compass  of  a 
near  semicircle ;  while  at  the  base  of  Mount  Gilboa,  one  can  see,  glist- 
ening like  silver,  the  waters  of  the  fountain  of  Jezreel. 

In  the  past,  Mount  Tabor  has  served  as  a  tribal  boundary  line ;  as  a 
strategic  war-point ;  as  a  symbol  of  glory ;  as  the  stronghold  of  kings ; 
as  a  witness  to  battles  from  the  days  of  Deborah  and  Sisera  to  the 
struggle  between  Kleber  and  the  Turks.  And  yet  it  occurs  to  me  that 
the  quiet  and  retirement  of  some  spot  on  Mount  Hermon  would  have 
been  preferred  for  such  an  exalted  scene  as  the  Transfiguration,  rather 
than  a  site  whose  entire  surroundings  only  recalled  scenes  of  sorrow 
and  struggling. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

NAZARETH,  OLD  AND  NEW. 

The  Climb  up  the  Nazareth  Hills,  from  the  Plain  of  Esdraelon. — Early  Morning  at  Naza- 
reth.— The  Wood  market. — At  the  Bazaars. — Nazareth  viewed  from  the  Campanile 
of  "the  Church  of  the  Annunciation. "—The  Blind.— The  Latin  Church.— The 
Houses. — Living  on  the  Roof. — A  Nazarene  Carpenter's  Shop. — View  from  the 
"  Mount  of  Precipitation." — The  Modern  Jew, — Old-time  Excitements  in  the  Syna- 
gogues.—An  Evening  Prospect. — The  Hill  Country  around  Nazareth. — The  People 
of  Galilee. — Home  Customs. — The  Education  of  the  Children.— A  Feast  Day. — 
Street  Scenes. — When  Jesus  Christ  lived  in  Nazareth. 

rfIHE  Bedouins  of  to-day  live  in  very  much  the  same  way  as  the 
-■-  Bible  tells  us  that  the  patriarchs  did.  One  need  not  travel  over 
the  whole  country  for  proofs  of  this.  The  towns  and  villages  are  much 
alike  in  their  general  characteristics,  and  in  all  parts  of  the  open  coun- 
try the  habits  of  the  nomadic  population  are  the  same.  It  is  true  that 
Tiberias  boasts  of  having  the  most  fleas  and  "  the  king "  thereof ;  Je- 
richo yields  the  most  persistent  crop  of  beggars ;  Shechem  vies  with 
Jerusalem  in  presenting  the  worst  cases  of  leprosy ;  there  is  no  end  to 
the  blind  people  in  Hebron;  Bethlehem  claims  to  have  the  cleanest 
streets,  although  I  confess  I  did  not  miss  any  of  the  dirt  when  I  visited 
it  J  and  the  Bethany  children  are  the  loveliest  of  all.  Yet  in  all  or  any 
one  of  these  places  substantial  illustrations  of  the  Bible  record  rise  up 
on  every  side. 

Nazareth  is  undoubtedly  the  most  important  town  in  the  region  of 
Galilee.  It  is  not  very  far  from  Jezreel  or  Shunem  or  Nain ;  Mount 
Tabor  can  always  be  seen  from  the  neighboring  hills ;  a  few  hours  of 
rough  travel  brings  one  to  where  the  ruins  of  Capernaum  receive  the 
whispered  messages  and  the  hoarse  warnings  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  In 
the  general  itinerary  the  approach  to  Nazareth  is  from  the  south.  The 
last  day  before  reaching  it  Mount  Gilboa  is  passed ;  then  villages  near 
the  Plain  of  Esdraelon  are  visited,  and  the  effort  is  made  to  spend  the 
last  two  hours  in  crossing  over  to  the  west  in  the  hope  of  reaching 


304 


IN  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 


Nazaretli  by  evening.  A  more  enjoyable  way  is  to  halt  for  the  night 
on  the  western  border  of  the  Plain  of  Esdraelon ;  then,  next  morning, 
long  before  daylight,  to  make  the  climb  up  to  Nazareth  on  foot.  Such 
a  walk  will  ever  be  remembered  as  a  delightful  one.  If  the  under- 
taking occurs  at  the  proper  season,  the  bright  stars  shimmering  over- 
head will  keep  hope  sustained,  w^hile  the  moon,  falling  lower  and  lower 
and  moving  backward  seemingly,  holds  out  its  golden  torch  and  indi- 
cates the  way  by  kindling  beacons  upon  the  mountains  ahead,  or  by 


Early  Morning,  Nazareth. 


tipping  the  crags  with  tender  light  and  sending  a  tremulous  glow 
through  the  ravines  to  cheer  the  traveller  and  to  rest  his  heart. 

The  way  is  scarcely  more  than  a  bridle-path  sometimes,  and  often  it 
is  so  steep  as  to  cause  even  the  sure-footed  Syrian  horse  to  falter  a 
moment  while  he  chooses  the  way.  Through  miniature  valleys  and 
along  narrow  passes  it  goes,  until  the  precipitous  ridge  which  protects 
Nazareth  on  the  east  is  gained.  The  ascent  from  the  i)lain  is  about 
one  thousand  feet,  and  rough  enough  to  test  the  mettle  of  an  expert 
and  ambitious  Alpine  climber.  At  the  early  morning  hour  the  cur- 
tains of  mist  hang  low.     Sometimes  these  veils  are  so  thin  as  to  reveal 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW.  305 

softly  and  clearly  the  modelling  of  the  scenes  beyond  them.  The 
breath  of  wind  that  comes  and  goes  is  so  soft  that  the  deep  silence  is 
not  disturbed. 

Now,  as  the  morning  glow  comes  on,  the  little  cultivated  terraces 
are  seen  hanging  upon  the  sides  of  the  hills,  like  orchids  upon  a  wall. 
Some  shepherd's  home  is  sure  to  be  near  them,  and  occasionally  the 
tinkling  bell  of  a  nervous  sheep  or  goat  is  heard,  followed  by  the  reas- 
suring tones  of  his  wakeful  guardian.  But  that  is  all  that  disturbs  un- 
til Nazareth  is  very  near.  Then,  crossing  the  ridge  already  referred 
to,  there,  as  its  last  incline  reaches  by  sharp  pitches  into  a  narrow 
IDlain,  is  Nazareth.  Fifteen  rounded  peaks  close  it  in  on  all  sides  but 
one,  and  there  nature  has  made  the  approach  impregnable  by  a  series 
of  lofty,  abrupt  j^recipices.  The  early  morning  view  is  made  grander 
by  the  wildness  of  the  surroundings.  The  soil  is  so  rocky  that  the 
vegetation,  such  as  it  is,  must  have  a  hard  time  to  win  life.  In  some 
places  the  soil  has  been  driven  away  by  the  descending  torrents,  and 
the  bald  spots  thus  exposed  are  as  white  as  Alpine  snow. 

Groves  of  trees  of  many  varieties,  dotted  here  and  there,  spread  out 
their  roots  and  entangle  the  soil  which  is  washed  down  from  above, 
until  a  luxurious  growth  is  presented.  When  first  looking  upon  Na- 
zareth from  the  south,  the  stranger  is  not  impressed  with  its  true  Ori- 
ental character.  It  seems  too  new  in  appearance;  too  clean.  This 
illusion,  like  that  which  strikes  one  when  looking  upon  Milan  Cathe- 
dral or  the  noble  group  of  structures  at  Pisa,  is  due  to  the  whiteness 
of  the  building-stone.  When  one  goes  down  into  its  details,  however, 
Nazareth,  like  Brussels,  is  found  to  have  its  old  quarter  as  well  as  a 
modem  one. 

Now,  as  the  moon  sinks  out  of  sight,  and  the  stars  are  one  by  one 
silently  eclipsed  by  the  warm  rosy  light  of  the  eastern  sun,  the  day- 
book opens,  and  the  grand  drama  of  life  in  a  Palestine  town  is  recorded 
page  after  i)age.  The  tall  minaret  of  the  mosque  and  the  shapely 
campanile  of  the  Latin  church  catch  the  first  glimmer  of  the  coming 
sun.  The  masterless  dogs  see  the  signal,  and  by  their  tumultuous 
howls  startle  the  sleepers  in  the  town.  Then  the  light  lingers  a  mo- 
ment  upon  the  broad  segments  of  the  domes  of  mosque  and  church 
alike  before  creeping  down  and  down,  until  each  white  house  is  in  a 
glare  and  every  street  is  illuminated  and  warmed  into  life  by  the  flood 

of  golden  color  which  springs  into  them.     Then  the  sounds  of  ian- 
20 


306 


/iV"  SGRIPTUBE  LANDS. 


gnages  strange  and  loud  fall  upon  the  ear.  They  come  from  the 
drivers  of  the  cattle,  and  from  the  street  merchant  who  would  draw  first 
attention  to  the  wares  he  has  for  sale.  The  Nazarene  of  to-day  is  as 
turbulent  as  he  was  when  all  Palestine  hated  him  and  declared  that  no 


The  Wood-market. 

good  could  come  out  of  Nazareth.  Once  the  streets  are  fairly  entered 
it  will  be  seen  that  the  town  is  as  full  of  busy  life  as  a  hornet's  nest. 
The  dark-eyed  women  are  among  the  first  who  appear  to  start  the  busi- 
ness of  the  day.  They  come  from  the  oak-tangles  of  the  environing 
hills,  where  they  have  gathered  the  bundles  of  twigs  for  which  there  is 
a  ready  sale.  They  squat  in  the  market-place  with  their  snaggy  mer- 
chandise and  timidly  await  the  coming  of  their  patrons.  These  women 
have  but  little  sunshine  in  their  lives.  There  is  not  much  color-cheer- 
fulness in  such  early  morning  pictures,  except  in  the  orange  and  crim- 
son and  blue  face-veils  which  the  women  wear,  and  in  their  bright  eyes, 
which  can  be  seen  sparkling  through  the  veils.  The  scene  brightens 
when  the  tall,  slender  fellows,  girt  in  white  "  abbas  "  and  many-colored 
"kefiyehs,"  flock  along,  bare-legged,  and  topped  by  turbans  of  white 
or  tarbooshes  of  red.  They  are  the  bread-sellers,  the  water-carriers, 
and  the  fruit-venders.  As  they  go  they  sidle  their  toes  into  the  ribs  of 
the  night-watchman,  who  turns  over  on  his  face  and  begins  his  slum- 
bers simultaneously  with  the  awakening  of  the  sun.  Oh,  the  chatter- 
ing and  the  jabbering  of  such  a  discordant  crowd !  Incipient  quarrels 
often  occur,  but  no  bloodshed  follows.  The  brown-calved  autocrats 
long  ago  learned  that  the  howadji  regards  them  as  sublimely  pictu- 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW.  307 

resque,  and  there  is  a  tacit  agreement  among  them  to  deck  their  stage 
with  their  most  brilliant  tints.  Sometimes  it  seems  like  Naples  here 
in  the  narrow,  dark,  dirty  streets ;  and  indeed  year  by  year  Nazareth 
grows  more  and  more  like  an  Italian  town.  Its  white  hills  do  not  soar 
so  loftily  into  the  blueness  of  the  air  distance  as  do  the  pale  volcanic 
piles  which  environ  Naples ;  neither  are  they  turreted  here  and  there 
with  ruined  castles.  But  it  is  true  that  the  parti-colored  campanile 
and  the  white  convent  are  no  longer  a  rarity  at  Nazareth,  and  each 
day  is  opened  and  closed  with  the  solemn  gamut  of  the  monastery 
bells,  rung  in  strange  dissonance  with  the  muezzin  call. 

Each  turn  in  the  streets  brings  a  change  of  scene.  Everybody  who 
can,  manages  to  be  there.  The  dealers  in  dates,  figs,  beans,  barley,  len- 
tils, oranges,  cheese,  and  vegetables  ooze  out  from  their  bazars  and 
spread  their  merchandise  around  them  upon  the  muddy  highway  in 
front ;  the  tailor,  the  cobbler,  the  coppersmith,  the  coffee-grinder,  and 
the  carpenter,  all  occupy  as  much  of  the  narrow  thoroughfares  as  the 
crowd  will  allow.  The  dogs  scavenger  along  undisturbed ;  the  lumber- 
ing camel  sways  from  side  to  side  with  his  back  full  of  limestone 
blocks  or  cedar  logs  three  times  as  long  as  himself,  and  commands  suf- 
ficient respect  from  everyone  to  enable  him  to  have  the  right  of  way ; 
the  chickens  stroll  everywhere  freely;  the  children  swarm  around 
every  stranger  begging  for  backsheesh,  and  the  cosmopolitan  donkey 
brays  assent  to  everything  except  the  blows  and  tail-twistings  he  re- 
ceives from  his  driver. 

There  are  quieter  ones  than  all  these  in  Nazareth  on  market  day. 
Seated  by  the  side  of  the  gateway  flanked  on  each  side  by  towers  con- 
nected by  a  well-shaped  Eoman  arch  flung  from  one  to  the  other,  sits  a 
modem  Bartimeus  with  his  companion,  blind,  and  begging,  not  for  the 
Divine  touch  which  healed,  but  hopelessly  blind  and  abandoned  to  that 
art  of  the  modem  Arab,  the  taking  of  alms.  Picturesque  though  they 
are,  such  groups  are  always  pathetic.  They  are  all  too  plenty  in  Pal- 
estine. Blindness  is  so  common  there  that  to  find  a  person  with  two 
perfect,  healthy  eyes  is  the  exception  rather  than  the  rule.  I  have  fre- 
quently been  attracted  by  a  pair  of  expressive  eyes  peering  over  a 
face-veil  as  their  owner  came  toward  me,  only  to  learn  with  a  pang 
as  we  met  that  one  of  them  was  white  in  the  centre  and  the  pupil  of 
the  other  being  encroached  upon  by  the  fatal  blue  of  ophthalmia.  The 
trouble  begins  in  babyhood.    The  Arab  mother  refuses  to  drive  away 


308  ij:^  scripture  lands. 

the  flies  which  swarm  around  the  diseased  eyes  of  the  poor  little  child, 
seated  upon  her  shoulder,  lest  "  the  evil  eye  of  the  stranger  "  fall  upon 
her  offspring".  But  what  she  imagines  is  protection  from  a  fatal  evil 
breeds  a  disease  far  more  dreadful.  That,  with  the  sudden  climatic 
changes,  makes  blindness  a  scourge  in  the  East.  In  the  olden  time  the 
scribes  declared  almsgiving  to  be  "  a  grace."  For  one  farthing  given 
to  the  poor,  said  they,  a  man  will  receiye  heaven.  It  is  good  for  the 
blind  man  of  modem  times  that  this  ancient  belief  still  prevails  some- 
what, for  if  it  did  not  it  would  go  hard  with  him. 

But  the  attractions  of  Nazareth  are  not  all  of  the  market-place. 
The  Latin  Church  of  the  Annunciation,  built,  it  is  claimed,  over  the 
spot  where  the  interview  between  the  angel  and  the  Virgin  occurred,  is 
a  place  of  much  interest.  It  reminds  one  of  Italy  because  of  its  archi- 
tecture, because  of  its  campanile,  and  because  of  the  services  held 
there.  On  one  side  of  the  aisle  I  saw  a  Franciscan  monk  teaching 
about  fifty  children.  It  was  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning.  I  thought  I 
never  had  seen  sweeter  child  faces,  and  their  little  voices  were  as  mu- 
sical as  the  bird  songs  which  come  up  from  the  meadows  in  the  morn- 
ing. On  the  other  side  of  the  aisle  the  pharmacy  and  the  apartments 
of  the  monks  are  located.  Descending  the  fifteen  steps  which  lead 
underneath  the  altar,  "  The  Place  of  the  Annunciation  "  is  reached. 
The  apartment  is  about  twenty  feet  both  in  length  and  width  and  ten 
feet  high.  It  is  lined  with  white  marble  on  all  sides.  The  altar,  which 
is  also  of  marble,  is  decorated  with  vases  of  artificial  flowers.  The 
silver  lamps  which  hang  from  the  roof  of  the  cave  are  never  allowed  to 
go  out.  A  fine  oil-painting  behind  the  altar,  a  gift  of  the  Emperor  of 
Austria,  represents  the  Annunciation. 

At  the  right  of  the  altar  is  a  low  door  which  leads  to  a  second  por- 
tion of  the  grotto,  which  is  left  in  its  natural  state.  From  this  annex  a 
stairway  leads  up  into  a  low  cave  called  "  The  Virgin  Mary's  Kitchen." 
The  monks  hold  that  the  house  of  Mary  stood  over  this  grotto.  There 
are  a  hundred  such  places  underneath  the  hills  which  surround  Nazar- 
eth. Coming  up  from  the  grotto  into  the  morning  services  of  the 
church,  one  meets  a  strange  composition  amid  sense-involving  acces- 
sories. The  singing  priests,  the  waving  censers,  the  tender  music  of 
the  organ,  the  response  of  the  motley  congregation,  made  up  from  all 
quarters  of  the  globe,  the  glittering  lights  coming  in  from  the  stained 
windows  and  meeting  athwart  the  long  aisle,  the  kneeling  women,  the 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW. 


309 


impatient  children,  the  inquisitive  tourist — all  contribute  to  the  un- 
derstanding- of  the  great  painting  which  hangs  upon  the  wall.  This 
work  of  some  fervid  old  master  represents  Gabriel  and  Mary — the 
latter  kneeling  at  the  feet  of  the  angel,  while  he  addresses  her  and 
comforts  her  with  his  message  of  glad  tidings. 


Nazareth  from  the  Campanile  of  the   Church  of  the  Annunciation. 

One  of  the  best  views  of  the  city  is  to  be  had  from  the  campanile  of 
the  Church  of  the  Annunciation,  shown  above.  In  the  distance  is  the 
brow  of  the  hill  to  which  Jesus  was  led  by  the  enraged  multitude  who 
attempted  to  throw  him  from  it.  A  modem  house  in  the  foreground 
brings  to  mind  the  time  when  they  uncovered  a  roof  and  let  down  the 


310  JiV"  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

bed  whereon  the  sick  of  the  palsy  lay.  This  must  be  very  much  the 
same  kind  of  house  as  that  historical  one  at  Capernaum.  There  is  the 
peculiar  roof,  and  there  are  the  outside  stairs  leading  to  the  roof.  The 
Eastern  householder  makes  his  roof  serve  for  more  than  a  protection 
from  the  weather.  It  is  the  piazza,  the  quiet  place  of  the  dweller,  and 
sometimes  it  becomes  his  summer  residence.  As  a  rule,  it  is  not  very 
heavy  or  very  strong.  Eafters  are  thrown  across  from  wall  to  wall,  say 
a  yard  apart ;  then  the  whole  space  is  covered  with  twigs  such  as  we 
saw  the  women  selling  in  the  market-place.  On  these  the  slender 
limbs  of  trees  are  thrown  and  thickly  coated  with  mortar.  Lastly,  a 
thick  spread  of  earth  is  thrown  on,  rolled  to  a  level,  and  oftentimes 
sown  with  grass-seed.  Thus  by  care  many  of  the  roofs  become  as 
smooth  and  soft  as  a  machine-mown  lawn.  They  may  be  easily  broken 
up  and  anything  lowered  inside  from  above.  By  some  such  process 
the  four  bearers  of  the  poor  palsied  man  managed  to  enlist  the  atten- 
tion of  the  Great  Physician  in  behalf  of  their  friend.  It  is  not  hard  to 
understand  it  all  when  viewing  such  a  house  as  this  one  at  Nazareth. 
It  would  not  be  difficult  for  four  men  to  carry  a  lame  friend  in  a  ham- 
mock by  the  outer  stairway  up  to  the  roof,  and,  breaking  through,  let 
him  down  into  the  apartment  or  court  below.  Not  far  from  this  same 
house,  in  a  narrow  street,  is  a  little  chapel  erected  upon  the  site  of 
Joseph's  carpenter  shop.  Over  the  altar  is  a  picture  representing 
Mary  and  Joseph  instructing  Jesus,  and  finding  that  he  knew  more 
than  they.  Another  painting  represents  the  lad  Jesus  assisting  his 
father  at  work.  It  contains  no  accessories  of  the  carpenter's  shop,  but 
there  are  enough  of  them  in  the  shops  close  by.  The  web-saw,  the 
glue-pot,  the  plane,  and  the  hammer  are  the  principal  tools  used  in 
such  shops,  all  without  the  modern  improvements.  Yet  whatever  the 
Palestine  carpenter  produces  is  from  the  fragrant  cedars  of  Lebanon 
or  from  the  eccentrically  knotted  and  gnarled  olive-wood.  The  opera- 
tion of  bargaining  and  waiting  for  any  article  of  wood  to  come  from 
a  Palestine  carpenter's  shop  is  a  lengthy  one.  Articles  of  wood  are  a 
luxury  there,  and  when  the  carpenter  receives  an  order  for  one  he 
usually  employs  the  next  three  days  of  his  life  in  soliciting  the  con- 
gratulations of  his  friends  upon  his  wonderful  good  fortune  in  receiv- 
ing "  an  order  for  something  made  of  wood." 

Turning  from  the  excitement  of  the  town  for  a  while,  a  visit  to  the 
hill  at  the  west,  whence  the  people  tried  to  thrust  Jesus  after  his  ser- 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW. 


311 


mon  in  the  synag'og'ue,  will  be  worth  while.  It  is  about  five  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  the  ascent  is  rather  difficult.  It  will  repay  the  trav- 
eller, however ;  for  the  views  obtained  from  the  summit,  when  the  air 
is  clear,  are  among  the  finest  in  all  Palestine.  Nearest  is  Moimt  Ta- 
bor, from  whose  oak-groves  the  women  of  the  market-place  gather  their 


twigs.  The  mountains  of  Gil- 
ead;  the  broad,  undulating 
Plain  of  Esdraelon,  with  the 
villages  which  top  the  adjoin- 
ing hills  ;  the  fertile  hills  of 
Samaria ;  the  long  Mount  Car- 
mel  range  on  the  west,  with  the  blue  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  be- 
yond ;  the  extended  ridges  of  the  Galilean  hills ;  the  rolling  country 
intervening,  and  snow-capped  Mount  Hebron  away  beyond — all  are 
discernible  in  one  grand  prospect. 

Peculiar  sensations  play  upon  the  mind  in  such  a  place  as  this.  It 
does  not  seem  as  though  the  view  could  always  be  so  grand.  It  must 
be  that  Nature  has  arranged  to  make  the  scene  unusually  beautiful. 


312  /-/Y  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

entrancing",  and  overpowering  for  the  occasion.  A  feeling"  arises  that  a 
special  visual  angle  has  been  given  to  one's  eyes  to  enable  them  to 
take  in  such  a  wide  view.  More  than  this,  a  diminishing  power  seems 
to  be  given  to  the  optical  sense,  which  reduces  all  things  until  the  com- 
bination seems  to  present  a  miniature  world.  The  rocks,  the  woods, 
the  torrents,  the  sloping  sides  of  the  hills,  the  villages  and  towns,  are 
distinctly  visible,  small  but  clearly  defined ;  and  the  summits  of  the 
mountains,  which  seem  so  threatening  from  below,  now  appear  like  the 
furrows  of  a  ploughed  field  or  the  terraced  sides  of  an  individual 
neighboring  hill.  Not  until  the  bell  of  the  old  gray  convent  disturbs 
the  illusion  can  this  strange  sense  be  shaken  off. 

Anyone  walking  from  Nazareth  to  Capernaum  will  come  upon  two 
reminders  of  the  days  when  Jesus  "  preached  in  their  synagogues 
throughout  all  Galilee."  One  of  these  is  the  present  Jewish  popula- 
tion ;  the  other,  the  remains  of  some  of  the  very  synagogues  referred 
to.  The  Palestine  Jew  wears  a  long,  dark  coat,  and  a  fur-lined  cap  of 
peculiar  form,  not  unlike  the  modern  "  Tam  o'  Shanter  "  in  shape.  His 
lovelocks  are  long  at  each  temple,  his  brows  bushy,  his  hair  and  beard 
frequently  red,  his  eyes  as  often  blue,  his  skin  pale,  and  his  flesh  looks 
bloodless.  He  appears  to  be  almost  as  much  a  ruin  as  the  synagogues 
are.  How  different  all  was  when  Jesus  touched  the  leper ;  and  how, 
like  a  torch,  that  touch  served  to  set  afire  the  inflammable  hatred  of 
the  Pharisee,  causing  it  to  burst  into  furious  flames  of  imprecation  and 
accusation!  Then  how  soon  the  "blasphemer"  became  the  topic  of 
general  conversation — this  man  who  had  never  attended  a  house  of  in- 
struction, and  who  had  not  even  asked  for  a  certificate  showing  the 
right  to  teach !  Peoj^le  of  all  classes  congregated  upon  their  roofs  or 
in  their  courts  then,  and  disputed  about  the  Great  Healer.  Even  in 
the  khans  travellers  to  and  fro  were  involved  in  the  popular  discussion, 
while  they  sipped  their  Italian  wine  and  questioned  the  natives  as  to 
the  prospect  of  the  grape-crop  in  Lebanon  and  east  of  the  Jordan. 
Even  Herod  became  so  forgotten  that  he  grew  alarmed,  more  than  he 
was  when  first  he  heard  "  the  voice  of  one  crying  in  the  wilderness." 
Already  the  Pharisee  had  been  heard  to  hiss  when  he  saw  the  image 
of  the  Koman  emperor  upon  the  golden  coin  which  he  dropped  into 
the  synagogue  treasury.  "Wlien  a  copper  coin  bearing  the  name  of  the 
hated  emperor  was  ostentatiously  thrown  at  the  despised  leper,  it  was 
done  with  a  gesture  of  contempt  that  made  his  own  blood  feverish,  and 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW. 


313 


oftentimes  puzzled  him  to  decide  whom  he  most  hated,  Jesus  or  Herod. 
More  than  this :  men  whom  Jesus  had  won  preached  more  zeal  for  a 
nation  whose  people  were  only  the  slaves  and  mercenaries  of  Herod, 
and  advised  the  lifting-  of  Israel's  banners  with  the  breaking-  of  the 


Palestine  Jews. 


yoke  of  the  g-odless  Eoman.  Then,  when  Jesus  entered  their  syna- 
g-ognes  they  hastened,  as  in  a  race,  to  secure  places  where  they  could 
be  near  him,  hear  his  addresses,  and  feed  their  curiosity  or  g-ather  com- 
fort from  his  revelations.  Only  their  ruined  synagogues  remain  to 
prove  the  turmoil. 


314 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


One  of  the  most  picturesque  synagogues  in  Galilee  is  found  at 
Kef 'r  Bir'im.  It  is  the  larger  of  two,  and  is  located  among  the  houses 
of  the  village.  Its  splendid  arched  doorway  is  preserved  entire. 
Some  of  its  columns  are  also  standing,  and  its  size,  sixty  feet  long  by 
fifty  feet  broad,  can  be  proved  by  the  remains  of  the  walls.  The  true 
age  of  the  structure  is  also  found  by  the  "chiselled  in  "  stones  set  with 
mortar.  Here  doubtless  was  one  of  their  synagogues  where  Jesus 
preached.    It  may  have  been  here  that  more  than  one  poor  sufferer 


The  Old  Synagogue  of  Kef  r   Bir'im  ;   between  Nazareth  and  Capernaum. 


was  cured — more  than  one  Pharisee  stricken  with  the  disease  of  hate 
from  which  he  never  recovered. 

Do  not  they  tell  of  the  feverish  excitement  inflamed  by  the  political 
and  religious  passion  of  the  Jews,  of  the  chafing  Koman  yoke,  of  the 
racking  hate  of  the  foreigner,  of  the  galling  helplessness  of  the  Israel- 
ites, of  the  "  waiting  for  the  consolation  of  Israel  ?  "  Revolt  hung  over 
all  like  a  thunderbolt,  ready  to  burst  at  any  time  and  send  destruction 
and  dismay  along  its  merciless  track.  Religious  fanaticism  turned 
the  heads  of  men  and  made  them  demons.  It  was  not  the  lack  of  de- 
sire for  "  Messias  to  come  "  which  caused  men  to  dwell  in  tombs,  cut 
themselves  with  stones,  and  cry  out,  "  I  adjure  thee  by  God,  that  thou 
torment  me  not."    It  was  the  leper  without  the  leper's  faith.     So 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW,  315 

things  went  on  balancing  up  and  down  from  outbreak  to  riot,  from 
deeds  of  violence  to  horrid  massacre,  from  the  blood  of  the  sacrificed 
brutes  to  that  of  the  ill-fated  slaves  of  Kome,  from  the  charge  of  the 
Sanhedrim  to  the  Cross  of  Calvary.  Thereafter,  on  and  on,  until 
Kef'r  Bir'im  and  all  "their  synagogues  throughout  all  Galilee"  lay 
ruined  and  deserted. 

It  is  worth  while  to  climb  to  the  highest  part  of  these  old  relics 
and  survey  the  country.  You  can  always  see  much  farther  than  you 
can  walk  in  a  day.  I  prefer  the  close  of  the  day  for  such  an  enterprise, 
when  the  shadows  of  evening  send  forth  as  their  heralds  the  cool 
breezes  which  cause  the  fields  of  grain  and  grass  to  undulate  like  the 
whispering  waves  of  a  summer  sea.  Then  the  birds  chirp  a  welcome 
as  they  flock  together  overhead,  while  the  noisy  night-bird,  perched 
upon  the  highest  tree,  signals  the  night  to  come  on.  It  is  not  all 
loneliness  hereabouts,  for  even  a  part  of  Kef'r  Bir'im  is  inhabited,  and 
the  neighboring  country  is  well  cultivated.  Over  on  the  left  is  a  well, 
or  "  fountain,"  where  the  women  come  every  night  for  water,  and 
where  the  flocks  drink — just  as  it  was  when  the  miraculous  healings 
which  had  taken  place  in  the  synagogue  were  discussed  by  the  fre- 
quenters of.  the  same  fountain.  On  the  other  side  the  mountain 
ranges  may  be  seen  forming  a  great  aerial  circle,  broken  only  by  the 
deep  ravines.  There,  too,  is  the  vast  amphitheatre  which  they  form, 
filled  by  the  mist  and  sunbeams  which  shimmer  over  the  Sea  of  Gali- 
lee. The  air  is  balmy,  and  there  are  a  thousand  forms  of  beauty  re- 
vealed by  the  sun  as  it  thrusts  its  long  rays,  like  Arab  lances,  through 
the  landscape.  The  shadows  are  driven  away  from  the  sparkling 
fountains,  and  their  singing  reveals  the  whereabouts  of  the  rocky  cas- 
cades whose  monotones  have  excited  our  wonder  all  day ;  for  there 
they  are  leaping  from  their  rugged  heights,  now  a  hundred  feet,  now 
twenty,  now  ten,  and  now,  widely  diffused,  rolling  over  the  bare  rock 
for  a  hundred  yards  or  more  until  they  come  on  to  their  last  leap; 
then,  plunging  into  the  jungle,  they  send  up  the  spray  above  the  tree- 
tops,  where  it  breaks  into  rainbow  circles  and,  falling,  disappears. 
Never  do  the  olive-groves  look  so  well  as  at  the  evening  hours,  when 
the  lowering  sun  shines  through  their  irregular  enfilades  and  illumes 
the  green-gray  glossy  details  of  their  homy  leaves.  The  gnarled  and 
split  and  twisted  trunks  of  these  caverned  veterans,  with  their  long 
extended  arms  breaking  into  hundreds  of  branches,  are  also  best  seen 


316  IJ^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

from  above  in  the  evening  light;  then  every  branch  is  discernible 
with  its  feathered  lichens  and  its  knotted  stems.  Thus  the  nearer 
groves  appear.  Those  in  the  distance  look  more  hoary  and  soft,  as 
though  a  veil  of  light  cunningly  woven  by  the  shuttling  of  the  rays 
hung  over  them,  until  the  herald  breezes  touch  them  and  push  their 
branches  all  one  way.  Then  they  ripple  like  a  sea  of  silver  or  a  field 
of  grain  with  its  beard  just  full  grown. 

Evening  is  not  the  time,  though,  to  see  the  lovely  wild  flowers 
which  seek  the  protecting  shadows  of  the  olive-grove ;  for  their  eyes 
are  closed  then  and  their  little  sleepy  heads  are  bowed  for  the  night. 
Neither  is  it  worth  while  to  climb  to  a  height  to  see  them.  Go  down 
in  the  morning,  when  the  dew  is  trickling  along  their  slender  stalks 
and  the  sun  is  calling  them  to  do  their  part  toward  making  the  world 
beautiful ;  then  you  will  see  myriads  of  flowers  in  endless  variety. 
And  how,  like  the  persistent  track  of  one  of  our  own  mountain  rail- 
ways, the  pathways  wind  and  "loop  "  here  and  there  among  the  ravines 
and  around  the  mountain  shoulders,  over  the  spurs  and  about  the  hills 
with  ruined  cities  yet  upon  them — through  the  "  field  of  the  sower." 
When  the  sun  has  set,  and  the  birds  have  hidden  their  heads  under 
their  wings,  and  the  olive-groves  become  shadow  masses,  then  the  mist 
rises  and  everything  above  it  seems  to  be  hanging  and  hovering  in  the 
sky.  The  white-topped  hills  become  snowy  peaks,  and  the  houses 
round  about  are  like  islands  in  the  sea.  In  no  part  of  Palestine  is  the 
vegetation  more  luxuriant  than  Nazareth.  But  the  country  is  thinly 
populated,  and  the  people  are  indifferent  as  to  what  goes  on  in  the 
outer  world.  If  the  minions  of  Antony  and  Augustus  could  lead  a  host 
through  the  plain  of  Esdraelon  now  they  would  meet  no  foe;  the 
golden  eagle  might  be  set  upon  the  dome  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  but 
the  modem  Galilean  would  not  resent  it ;  the  husbandman  of  Galilee 
does  not  own  the  land  he  tills,  and  cares  nothing  for  the  fanaticism  of 
those  who  do  ;  a  thousand  crucifixions  might  take  place  at  Jerusalem, 
and  the  creaking  olive-presses  of  Galilee  would  not  be  stopped  a  mo- 
ment to  listen  to  the  story.  You  would  think  the  brown-faced  farmer 
here  had  no  soul,  unless  you  happened  to  offer  him  backsheesh  to  show 
you  the  way,  or  your  dragoman  pushed  your  horses  through  the  grain- 
fields.  Then  he  would  rise  to  the  occasion  and  try  to  take  care  of  him- 
self. Varied,  indeed,  are  the  sights  presented  as  one  walks  along  even 
over  the  land  controlled  by  a  single  sheikh.    There  at  the  left  you  may 


NAZABETH,    OLD  AND  NEW.  317 

see  a  liill  topped  by  a  squalid  modem  village  and  the  remnants  of  one 
more  antique — composite  illustrations  of  history.  A  tortuous  path, 
with  the  stones  thrown  off  at  each  side,  leads  from  the  summit  down 
into  the  valley.  At  right  and  left  are  "  fields  of  the  sower,"  and  "  by 
the  wayside  "  are  plenty  of  spots  where  the  seed  has  fallen ;  hence  the 
marauder  is  more  than  likely  to  glean  it  for  his  own  use  ere  it  is  barely 
ready  for  the  sickle.  There  are  other  sections  in  the  great  field  which 
look  well,  but  tlie  ground  is  stony  and  the  waving  stalks  havQ  no  root. 
They  grow  and  seem  to  show  promise  for  both  ear  and  corn,  but  when 
the  first  very  hot  days  come  they  wilt  and  waste  on  the  stony  ground 
which  could  not  sustain  life  in  them.  Such  spots  are  quickly  revealed 
to  the  traveller  if  he  attempts  to  cross  a  wheat-field  in  Galilee  before 
the  grain  is  ripe.  In  the  neighborhood  of  some  of  these  stony  places 
the  prickly -pear  bush  with  its  millions  of  spikes  and  thorns  abounds. 
It  is  often  a  great  trouble  to  the  husbandman.  Frequently,  however, 
he  turns  it  to  good  account  for  fence  and  hedge.  I  have  seen  entire 
villages  inclosed  by  this  sturdy  plant,  and  the  avenues  leading  to  the 
houses  of  the  villages  lined  with  it.  Surely  it  chokes  all  the  seed 
which  falls  about  it,  and  it  causes  woe  enough  to  the  luckless  traveller 
who  tries  to  break  through  its  dense  growth.  Ordinary  thorns  also 
abound  and  grow  to  great  heights.  A  field  of  "good  ground"  is  a 
pleasant  sight.  "When  it  has  been  freshly  ploughed  and  its  furrows  in- 
cline toward  the  morning  sun,  it  looks  like  a  carpet  lately  swept. 
Sometimes  a  single  olive-tree  breaks  the  monotony  and  serves  to  lead 
the  eye  forward  until  it  meets  the  wall  of  an  ancient  city,  or  a  temple, 
or  a  tower,  rising  up  against  the  distant  background  of  the  prospect. 

It  has  been  said  by  many  Oriental  travellers  that  in  the  East  the 
usages  of  life  do  not  vary — that  the  East  is  stationary.  It  is  true  that 
many  of  the  customs  of  Palestine  have  survived  all  the  terrible  convul- 
sions through  which  the  country  has  passed,  as  well  as  the  change  in 
population.  The  Arabs  of  to-day  retain  many  of  the  practices  of  the 
Jews  of  old.  But  in  one  very  important  direction  the  seed  sown  by 
the  Jews  seems  to  have  fallen  on  stony  ground,  for  there  is  not  much  to 
show  for  its  sowing  now.  I  mean  the  education  of  the  children.  In 
Christ's  day  the  youthful  Jew  was  taught  to  read,  either  at  home  or  in 
the  schools  connected  with  the  synagogue.  At  twelve  years  of  age  he 
was  expected  to  recite  the  "  Shema  "  in  the  temple.  Those  who  were 
precocious,  and  who  respected  their  teachers,  were  permitted  to  enter 


318  IW  8GBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

the  higher  schools,  where  the  rabbis  taug-ht  the  Law  from  the  books 
of  Moses.  The  social  position  of  the  rabbis  was  the  very  highest,  and 
their  dignity  was  of  the  stateliest.  At  the  age  of  thirteen  a  young  Jew 
became  "  a  son  of  the  Law,"  and  was  bound  to  reverence  and  practise 
all  its  moral  and  ritual  exactions.  Josephus  declared  that  Moses  com- 
manded that  the  children  be  taught  to  read  and  to  walk  in  the  ways  of 
the  Law.  They  were  also  required  to  know  the  deeds  of  their  fathers, 
that  they  might  imitate  them,  and  neither  transgress  the  Law  nor  have 
the  excuse  of  ignorance.  Boastingly  he  added:  "We  interest  our- 
selves more  about  the  education  of  our  children  than  about  anything 
else,  and  hold  the  observance  of  the  laws  and  rules  of  piety  they  incul- 
cate as  the  weightiest  business  of  our  whole  lives."  One  of  the  apt 
family  sayings  of  their  day  was  :  "  Seeking  wisdom  when  you  are  old 
is  like  writing  on  water ;  seeking  it  when  you  are  young  is  like  grav- 
ing on  a  stone."  At  an  early  age  the  parents  brought  the  children  to 
the  synagogue,  that  they  might  have  the  prayers  and  blessing  of  the 
elders.  "  After  the  father  of  the  child,"  says  the  Talmud,  "  had  laid 
his  hands  on  his  child's  head,  he  led  him  to  the  elders,  one  by  one,  and 
they  also  blessed  him  and  prayed  that  he  might  grow  up  famous  in  the 
Law,  faithful  in  marriage,  and  abundant  in  good  works."  Jesus,  hav- 
ing been  accepted  as  a  rabbi  by  many  of  the  people,  was  frequently 
appealed  to  for  the  rabbi's  blessing.  More  than  this,  he  gave  it  vol- 
untarily. He  enjoined  a  child-like  spirit.  The  children  were  also 
taught  to  honor  their  parents.  This  child-like  spirit  meant  something 
more  than  it  does  now.  Jesus  was  a  Jew,  and  enjoined  the  careful 
consideration  of  the  children.  May  he  not  have  had  in  mind,  too,  the 
occasion  when  Herod  massacred  all  the  little  ones  of  Bethlehem  in 
order  to  make  sure  of  the  death  of  the  Sacred  Babe  ?  At  any  rate  he 
enjoined  that  all  "  become  as  little  children."  All  this  has  changed, 
however.  The  children  of  Palestine  are  very  lovely  and  beautiful — in 
character  oftentimes  as  well  as  in  looks.  They  are  taught  to  be  kindly 
and  polite  in  their  home  duties ;  but,  alas  !  the  only  opportunities  for 
their  education  are  afforded  by  the  missions  and  their  schools.  In 
these  Syria  is  particularly  fortunate.  Frequently  a  European  tourist 
provides  for  the  education  of  a  tiny  Arab  at  one  of  the  schools  of  Bey- 
rout,  Joppa,  Damascus,  Nazareth,  or  Jerusalem.  Such  good  fortune 
befell  the  tiny  Nazleh  and  her  larger  companion  Mermon — fair  speci- 
mens of  the  little  brown-skins  who  put  their  hands  in  yours  and  win 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW,  319 

your  hearts.  Little  girls  are  never  very  welcome  in  an  Arab  home. 
To  be  the  father  of  a  young  Achmed,  or  Mohammed,  or  Ali,  however, 
is  to  be  called  the  honored  title  of  "  father  of  Achmed,"  or  "  father  of 
Mohammed,"  or  "  father  of  Ali,"  for  it  is  considered  a  great  honor  to 
have  a  son.  When  the  children  of  a  household  are  at  play  and  a  cry  is 
heard,  the  mother  runs  quickly  to  the  rescue  if  the  sound  of  distress 
comes  from  her  boy,  but  not  to  her  girl.  I  am  not  sure,  however,  but 
that  this  sort  of  treatment  causes  the  faces  of  the  little  girls  to  be  all 
the  sweeter  and  their  great  black  eyes  all  the  more  melting. 

Again  we  turn  from  the  concerns  of  the  rural  householder  and  go 
back  to  the  busy  city — this  time  on  a  feast-day.  The  mountain  track  is 
crowded  with  donkeys  and  mules  and  camels  laden  with  all  sorts  of 
produce,  attended  by  their  drivers  and  their  owners.  It  is  all  pictur- 
esque, but  it  is  not  all  peaceable.  If  a  luckless  donkey  grazes  the  ribs 
of  a  camel,  even  at  their  lower  extremities,  the  respective  owners  of  the 
beasts  begin  a  duel  of  words  at  once.  Watching  the  opportunity,  the 
donkey  lies  down  for  a  roll  in  the  dust,  and  the  camel,  drawing  up  his 
great  joints  to  his  body,  squats  down  regardlessly  in  the  way  of  all 
comers.  A  crowd  then  gathers,  and  soon  the  way  is  barricaded.  The 
scene  grows  interesting,  and  some  fine  specimens  of  modem  Arabic  are 
scattered  to  the  four  winds.  Yousef  to  El  Wafi  screams :  "  Fellow, 
there!  We  wish  to  reach  the  mosque  before  the  evening  muezzin. 
You  will  enable  us  to  praise  God  the  more  if  you  will  start  your  camels 
a  little  out  of  our  way  and  allow  us  to  pass  by."  El  Wafi :  "  Hold  your 
peace  !  Do  not  you  see  that  the  street  is  crowded  ?  "  Yousef :  "  I  see 
a  lot  of  dull  and  stupid  idlers  before  me.  Lend  me  your  camel-goad, 
and  I  will  soon  give  you  a  lift  toward  Nazareth."  El  Wafi  :  "  Take  my 
advice  and  go  back  to  Shunem  or  Nain,  wherever  you  come  from ;  and 
take  my  curse  along  with  you,  for  there  is  no  room  for  such  as  you  in 
the  crowded  city." 

All  such  converse  goes  on  amid  much  gesticulation  and  the  fierce 
snapping  of  eyes,  but  it  is  not  often  that  anyone  is  hurt.  There  is  a 
sense  of  high  relief  physically  when  one  at  last  gains  freedom  from 
such  a  crowd  and  reaches  the  street  where  the  principal  bazars  are 
located.  The  crush  is  somewhat  less — at  least  there  is  no  blockade; 
but  the  bedlam  seems  to  have  increased.  It  is  the  place  for  bargains. 
Figs  and  dates,  mixed  with  almonds  and  stuffed  in  skins  like  Bologna 
sausages,  sliced  off  in  quantity  to  suit  purchasers,  are  offered  at  a  booth 


320  /F  SGBIPTURE  LANDS. 

next  to  which  a  merchant  in  red  pepper  and  spices  holds  forth.  The 
merry  whirl  of  the  potter's  wheel  is  balanced  by  the  deafening  hammer 
of  the  coppersmith  next  vdoor ;  while  the  weaver  and  the  saddle-maker 
occupy  one  bazar  in  peaceful  concord.  As  strange  as  any  of  them  is 
the  grand  showing  of  the  handkerchief -seller,  whose  merchandise  from 
the  mills  of  Manchester  makes  a  grand  color  display.  The  individual 
pieces  are  sometimes  covered  with  playing-cards,  and  again  bordered 
with  Arabic  passages  from  the  Koran.  You  put  down  the  backsheesh, 
and  if  satisfactory  to  the  vender  you  are  permitted  to  follow  the  cour- 
age of  your  convictions  and  carry  away  your  choice.  This  is  not 
always  successful,  however.  Once  upon  a  time  it  was  not  until  the 
third  day  that  I  could  persuade  one  Oriental  nabob  to  part  with  a  yel- 
low handkerchief  which  on  the  first  day  he  keenly  discerned  I  was 
bound  to  add  to  my  collection.  But  when  one  wanders  among  these 
people  and  sees  the  slowly  creeping,  cringing  Jew  among  them,  how 
he  longs  for  a  look  at  the  ancient  Levites  who  once  mingled  with  the 
populace  with  their  odd  head-dresses  and  the  broad  outside  pockets, 
barely  deep  enough  to  keep  the  large  scroll  of  the  Law  which  they  con- 
tained from  overbalancing  into  the  street.  "Where  now  are  the  Phari- 
sees with  their  arms  strapped  with  broad  phylacteries,  wearing  massive 
fringes  running  around  each  individual  edge  of  their  garments  ?  There 
are  now  no  meek  Essenes  here  clothed  in  white,  in  contrast  with  the 
haughty  Koman  officials  accoutred  in  gorgeous  apparel.  The  pilgrims 
in  the  costumes  of  every  land  are  plenty,  though,  and  seem  to  be  all 
that  resemble  the  crowds  who  assembled  in  the  days  of  old. 

History  tells  us  that  the  age  in  which  Jesus  Christ  lived  was  a  tran- 
sitional one — an  age  of  doubt  and  uncertainty.  Jesus  himself  called  it 
a  *'  wicked  and  adulterous  generation."  The  broken  columns  and  half- 
buried  capitals  which  one  stumbles  over  when  walking  in  Galilee  tell 
how  the  Idumean  tetrarch  robbed  the  Jew  of  his  sceptre,  how  the  Ro- 
man procurator  tampered  with  the  priesthood,  how  the  Sanhedrim  fell 
into  the  toils  of  the  subtle  Herodian  and  heartless  Sadducee.  The 
shrines  at  Caesarea  Philippi  and  elsewhere  prove  how  Jesus,  as  was  his 
custom,  drew  upon  facts  for  his  assertions ;  how  paganism  misled  the 
faithful  by  its  hideous  excesses.  All  along  the  line  of  the  Jordan  and 
of  the  Dead  Sea  are  the  caves  whei:e  the  wearied  and  worn  Essenes  hid 
and  waited  for  Messias  to  come.  Atheism  wrestled  with  Philosophy ; 
Crime  captured  Remorse  and  blindfolded  it  j  hearts  grew  so  stony  that 


NAZARETH,    OLD  AND  NEW.  321 

even  the  heathen  began  to  feel  that  the  second  flood  was  impending". 
Insolence,  cruelty,  extortion,  massacre,  the  destruction  of  the  syna- 
gogues and  the  erection  of  heathen  temples  in  their  places,  maddened 
a  people  already  wild  with  fanaticism.  The  sects  were  subdivided 
until  there  was  no  hope  for  any.  It  was  a  dark  day  for  the  children  of 
Israel,  and  they  caught  at  any  straw  which  offered  them  the  least  hope 
of  freedom.  Among  their  subdivisions  the  strictest  sect  was  the  Es- 
senes.  They  seemed  to  supply  the  only  sound  segment  in  the  whole 
rotting  Jewish  circle.  Sadducees  they  were  not,  of  course.  Neither 
were  they  content  with  the  loose  observance  of  the  Law  winked  at  by 
the  Pharisees.  To  avoid  the  responsibilities  of  an  active  life,  they  fled 
to  the  caves  of  the  oases  and  the  desert  and  led  a  purely  religious 
and  contemplative  life.  For  further  purification  they  were  addicted  to 
much  bathing;  they  let  a  little  light  into  their  lives  by  nursing  the 
sick,  but  they  drew  down  a  screen  over  them  by  a  mysterious  silence. 
To  them  the  sjmagogue  became  "  the  world  "—of  the  earth  earthy ;  to 
be  avoided.  Therefore  they  built  convents  and  became  monks.  They 
abandoned  sacrifices,  for  they  detested  them.  They  never  went  up  to 
Jerusalem,  but  held  themselves  aloof  from  all  who  were  not  "pure"  like 
themselves.  They  were  the  extreme  religionists,  the  "  perfectionists," 
of  their  day — "  perfect  Jews  fulfilling  the  whole  law."  They  were  com- 
munists. If  one  fell  ill,  the  others  cared  for  him  at  the  common  ex- 
pense. All  were  supported  from  the  general  purse.  Sober,  virtuous, 
and  unselfish,  their  conduct  was  exemplary.  They  went  out  from  each 
other  only  to  heal  and  to  help.  Jesus  was  not  an  Essene,  but  he  evi- 
dently knew  of  them  and  met  them.  If  John  was  not  an  Essene  he  was 
moved  by  similar  desires  to  be  free  from  the  world,  and  when  the  time 
came  he  spoke.  Then  suddenly  a  ray  of  light  came  to  Israel — "  The 
voice  of  one  cr3ring  in  the  wilderness.  Prepare  ye  the  way  of  the  Lord, 
make  his  paths  straight."  The  frantic  people  came  like  an  avalanche 
to  catch  the  warnings  of  this  "  voice."  The  Roman  tax-gatherer  trem- 
bled, the  hired  soldiers  called  upon  their  gods  for  protection,  Pharisees 
and  Sadducees  listened  and  threatened,  and  thousands  of  the  populace 
found  rest  in  a  new  hope. 

"  And  it  came  to  pass  in  those  days,  that  Jesus  came  from  Nazareth 
of  Galilee,  and  was  baptized  of  John  in  Jordan."  Then  began  the  heal- 
ing of  the  blind,  the  restoration  of  the  palsied,  the  cessation  of  the 

leper's  cry,  the  blessing  of  the  little  children,  the  driving  out  of  the 
21 


322  /iV^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

money-changers,  the  preaching  in  the  synagogues  of  Galilee,  and  the 
denunciation  of  the  "  wicked  and  adulterous  generation."  The  corrupt 
rulers  and  the  wicked  priests  who  perverted  the  Law  grew  afraid,  the 
hands  which  became  full  by  grinding  the  widow  and  the  orphan  to  the 
dust  held  back,  and  the  roaring  voices  of  the  Pharisees  were  lowered 
in  the  market-places.  But  these  changes  were  followed  by  evil  machi- 
nations to  make  the  "  blasphemer  "  unpopular  and  to  kill  him.  They 
knew  that  their  downfall  would  follow  if  sincerity,  contentment,  gen- 
tleness, chastity,  and  kindness  ruled  and  Jesus  reigned.  They  wished 
wars  and  contentions.  The  soft  delights  of  peace  and  justice  and  mut- 
ual deeds  of  love,  the  sincere  worship  of  God,  and  the  fulfilment  of 
the  Mosaic  Law  were  all  contrary  to  their  desires.  And  the  followers 
of  Jesus  also  began  to  waver.  The  seed  had  fallen  among  thorns. 
They  had  followed  Jesus  long  enough,  and  they  had  seen  miracles 
enough,  to  be  assured  oi  his  goodness  and  of  his  fitness  to  be  their 
king.  But  he  was  not  the  sort  of  king  they  wanted.  The  Christ  of 
God  he  might  be,  but  he  was  not  the  Jesus  to  out-Herod  Herod. 
Worse  than  all,  he  did  not  seem  to  agree  with  the  prophets.  They 
would  not  receive  him  as  a  redeemer  of  mankind  from  sin.  They 
wanted  a  king  to  reign  over  them  on  the  throne  of  Israel.  So  they 
gave  him  up  to  his  enemies  and  he  was  destroyed.  It  was  an  age  of 
strange  contrasts,  and  the  strangeness  is  not  all  over  with.  For  every 
year  hundreds  go  to  Palestine  to  end  their  days  that  they  may  be  bur- 
ied in  the  scanty  soil,  hundreds  go  down  into  the  "  wilderness  "  to  see 
the  place  whence  came  the  "  voice,"  and  each  year  thousands  and  tens 
of  thousands  of  pilgrims  come  from  all  lands  to  bathe  where  "  Jesus 
.    .    .    was  baptized  of  John  in  Jordan." 


CHAPTEK  Xin. 

THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE. 

The  First  Impressions  from  Safed. — Historical  Notes. — The  Horseback  Ride  from 
Safed.— The  Warm  Baths  at  Tiberias.— South  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee.— Tiberias  from 
the  South. — Tiberias  from  the  North.  —  The  Jews  and  the  Synagogue. — Magdala. 
— Bowers  on  the  Housetops. — 'Ain  Et-Tin,  The  Fountain  of  the  Fig. — Khan  Minjeh, 
The  Site  of  Capernaum. — Tell  Hum. — A  Synagogue  in  Ruins. — The  Sea  at  Caper- 
naum.—A  Ride  along  the  Coast. — Bethsaida. — The  Plain  of  Genessaret. — Chora- 
zin. — The  Sea  of  Galilee  South  from  Chorazin. — Wady  El  Hamam, — Kurun  Hattin, 
"  The  Horns  of  Hattin,"  where  the  Crusaders  were  defeated. — "  Peace." 

rilHE  first  impressions  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  should  be  gained  from 
-*-  the  town  of  Safed.  The  point  of  view  there  is  three  thousand  feet 
high  and  affords  a  nature-drawn  topographical  map  of  the  whole  of  the 
sea,  from  north  to  south,  from  east  to  west.  Sunken  amid  the  encir- 
cling hills  to  a  depth  of  one  thousand  six  hundred  and  fifty -nine  feet, 
the  sea  is  like  a  deep -cut  intaglio — harp -shaped,  smooth,  and  glitter- 
ing. Every  incision  contributing  to  the  changing  outlines  of  the  water 
marks  the  entrance  of  some  plunging  torrent  or  the  termination  of  a 
winding  wady  or  valley. 

Every  valley  remaining  upon  the  Galilean  shores  may  be  exactly 
located.  The  place  where  the  Jordan  enters  the  lake  at  the  north,  and 
where  it  makes  its  departure  at  the  south,  may  also  be  plainly  dis- 
cerned. Far  to  the  north  lies  the  long  Mount  Hermon  range,  cloud- 
capped  and  snowy.  Between  Safed  and  the  sea  there  is  a  tract  of  coun- 
try richer  in  romantic  scenery  and  holding  wider  interest  than  any 
other  part  of  the  region  of  Galilee.  On  the  score  of  natural  beauty  the 
Sea  of  Galilee  is  by  no  means  remarkable.  Its  mountains  are  high 
enough  to  be  attractive,  but  they  are  even-topped  and  monotonous 
when  compared  with  the  bold  outlines,  the  isolated  domes  and  peaks^ 
among  which  the  Swiss,  Scotch,  and  American  lakes  nestle.  The  bare 
rocks,  meadowless  inclines,  and  treeless  shores  of  Galilee  again  place 
it  at  a  disadvantage.     Yet  all  who  view  it  are  charmed  with  it. 

In  the  little  life  which  now  pervades  its  shores  one  may  daily  see 


\ 


THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE.  325 

repeated  the  references  made  to  it  by  the  simple  records  of  the  evang-e- 
list— the  casting-  of  nets ;  the  abundant  supply  of  fish ;  the  scattered 
flocks;  the  sheep  which  follow  the  good  shepherd;  the  lilies  of  the 
field,  in  abundance ;  the  sea,  often  tempestuous,  and  all  the  old-time 
natural  surroundings.  But  the  evidences  that  art  once  lent  its  gener- 
ous and  powerful  aid  to  make  the  shores  of  Galilee  one  of  the  garden 
spots  of  the  world  are  now  but  few,  and  hard  to  find.  War,  pestilence, 
earthquake,  time,  have  all  contributed  to  the  surrounding  scenes  of 
ruin.  The  eastern  side  is  now  infested  by  Bedouins,  whose  homes  are 
among  the  ruins  of  Bozrah,  and  who  are  as  remorseless  invaders  as 
any  who  lived  in  the  time  of  Gideon. 

The  western  coast  was  once  inhabited  by  a  hardy  race  of  mountain- 
eers— an  energetic,  remarkable  people,  despised  by  the  Jews,  but  pre- 
ferred by  Christ — industrious,  skilful,  and  valorous,  ready  to  muster  at 
a  time  one  hundred  thousand  men  to  defend  Galilee  against  the  Eo- 
mans.  Now  there  remains  only  a  comparatively  desolate  waste,  with 
but  a  few  hamlets,  in  place  of  the  once  densely  populated  region. 
Since  the  interest  held  by  this  locality  is  due  to  the  residence  of  Jesus 
in  Capernaum,  and  since  within  view  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  the  sacred 
events  took  place  w^hich  are  now  studied  in  every  Christian  country,  a 
brief  reference  to  national  affairs  as  they  then  existed  may  perhaps  be 
of  interest. 

The  government  was  Koman.  Herod  Antipas  was  the  civil  ruler  to 
whom  Jesus  was  subject.  During  the  years  when  the  Great  Teacher 
resided  with  his  parents  in  Nazareth,  the  whole  country  was  in  a  state 
of  expectation,  apprehension,  and  excitement.  The  Jews  chafed  under 
the  Eoman  yoke,  and  caught  at  every  sign  which  gave  hope  of  the  com- 
ing of  the  promised  Messiah.  The  trumpet-like  tones  of  the  Pharisees 
were  heard  daily  at  every  market-place  appealing  to  Jehovah  for  the 
release  of  the  people  "left  of  God."  The  synagogues  were  razed  to 
the  ground,  though  many  talents  were  offered  to  the  treasury  of  the 
empire  to  ransom  them.  Scenes  of  tumult  and  confusion,  involving 
Boman,  Greek,  and  Jew,  were  of  frequent  occurrence. 

"  Sweep  down  the  rebel !  Crush  him  to  earth  !  "  was  often  the  com- 
mand given  to  the  Boman  horse,  as  amid  the  clang  of  trumpets  they 
swept  along  after  the  terrified  and  retreating  crowds  ;  or,  again,  "  Come 
on,  men  of  Israel — for  the  Lord  and  Judea  !  "  rang  out  with  desperate 
bravery  the  Jewish  cry,  as  the  Bomans  and  the  Greeks  approached, 


11^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

ready  to  sell  their  lives  for  Caesar.  Dreadful  was  the  slaughter,  and 
horrible  were  the  acts  of  tyranny.  But  they  only  served  to  strengthen 
the  hope  and  renew  the  expectation  of  the  early  coming  of  the  Messiah 
to  restore  abridged  liberty  and  to  bring  release  from  wanton  and  un- 
bearable cruelty,  as  had  been  spoken  by  the  prophets. 

During  the  waiting  of  this  oppressed  people,  so  ready  always  to 
receive  the  promised  Deliverer  with  acclamations  of  welcome,  false 
prophets  appeared.  They  caused  hearts  to  beat  with  new  hope,  and 
sword  and  spear  to  be  grasped  ready  for  combat  in  their  cause.  But 
such  impostors  arose  only  to  be  rejected  and  driven  away  or  crucified. 
At  last  John  came.  From  that  time  Jesus  began  to  preach,  and  to  say, 
"  Bepent :  for  the  kingdom  of  heaven  is  at  hand."  Then  the  palatial 
residence  and  capital  of  Herod  Antipas  was  at  Tiberias,  named  thus 
after  his  friend  and  patron,  the  emperor  Tiberius.  Herod  spared  nei- 
ther art  nor  treasure  to  make  the  place  worthy  of  his  throne  and  his 
palace.  By  generous  grants  of  land  and  immunity  from  taxation,  and 
by  expending  large  sums  of  money  in  enhancing  the  attractions  of  Ti- 
berias, Herod  induced  Gentiles  of  great  wealth  to  gather  around  him. 
Amphitheatres,  baths,  and  temples  were  constructed  on  a  grand  scale. 
Groves  were  cut  down  to  make  room  for  costly  works  of  art,  that  Ti- 
berias might  gain  the  reputation  of  being  "  the  centre  of  Boman  civili- 
zation— the  Athens  of  the  East."  It  became  also  a  noted  health-resort, 
because  the  extensive  hot  springs  close  by  drew  manj^  a  distinguished 
dweller  to  the  political  and  courtly  centre.  New  towns  and  cities 
sprang  up  along  the  shores  of  the  sea  and  upon  the  neighboring  hills, 
until  a  large  number,  rich  and  populous,  could  be  seen  from  the  pin- 
nacle of  the  temple.  The  rich  architecture  of  the  Jewish  synagogues 
was  eclipsed  by  the  airy  columns,  vast  courts,  and  long-reaching  colon- 
nades of  the  heathen  temples. 

As  the  Pharisee  stood  at  the  sixth  hour  upon  the  portico  of  the 
synagogue  and  prayed,  he  was  disturbed  by  the  sounds  of  the  hammer 
and  chisel  of  the  Greek  artisan,  shaping  the  marble  images  of  the  gods 
for  the  stupendous  Boman  shrine  opposite.  Yillas  with  tropical  gar- 
dens, new  streets  and  thoroughfares,  seemed  to  grow  up  in  a  night. 
Merchants,  travellers,  and  sojourners  came  from  the  east,  the  west,  and 
the  south  to  barter,  to  bathe,  and  to  buy;  and  the  native  Galileans 
were  put  to  shame  before  the  strangers  because  compelled  by  Herod 
to  be  his  builders. 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE.  327 

"  The  Sea  of  Galilee  was  a  focus  of  life  and  activity."  Numerous 
ships  and  boats  sailed  upon  it.  Its  quays  were  dotted  here  and  there 
with  the  booths  of  the  humble  fishermen  from  whom  Jesus  chose  his 
disciples.  There  were  but  few  idlers  there.  Creeds  multiplied,  and 
disputes  followed — in  the  houses  of  worship,  in  the  market-places,  and 
in  the  homes.  Profligacy,  splendor,  conceit,  arrogance,  bigotry,  and 
scepticism  grew  apace.  The  Koman  ruler  even  conspired  against  his 
home  government  and  aspired  to  be  "  The  King  of  the  Jews."  Stores 
of  arms  were  gathered,  and  soldiers  were  secretly  enlisted  to  fight  for 
his  cause.  The  "Israelite  indeed"  was  waiting  and  watching,  and 
ready  to  welcome  the  true  Messiah,  so  that  Jesus  was,  in  the  main, 
well  received  by  the  people  among  whom  he  dwelt.  About  this  tiny 
inland  Sea  of  Galilee,  seventeen  miles  long,  and  from  six  to  nine 
miles  broad,  and  environed  by  the  retiring  hills,  during  three  years 
the  most  sacred  scenes  of  history  were  enacted — scenes  which  still  make 
this  the  most  sacred  of  all  localities. 

Sir  John  Mandeville,  one  of  the  earliest  travellers  who  make 
record  (a.d.  1322),  thus  quaintly  describes  the  region  : 

"  Upon  the  Sea  (of  Galilee  Tyberie  or  Jenazarethe)  went  cure  Lord 
drye  feet ;  and  there  he  toke  up  Seynte  Petir  when  he  began  to  drenche 
within  the  see,  and  seyde  to  him,  Modice  Fidei,  qiiare  dubitasti  ?  and 
after  his  Eesurrexionn,  oure  Lord  appered  on  that  See  to  his  Disciples, 
and  bad  hem  fyssche  and  filled  alle  the  nett  full  of  gret  Fisshes.  In 
that  See  rowed  oure  Lord  often  tyme;  and  there  he  called  to  hym, 
Seynt  Petir,  Seynt  Andrew,  Sejmt  James,  and  Sejoit  John,  the  sons  of 
Zebedee. 

"  In  that  city  of  Tyberie  is  the  Table,  upon  the  which  oure  Lord  eete 
upon  with  his  Disciples,  after  his  Eesurrexionn,  and  thei  knewen  him 
in  brekynge  of  Bred  as  the  Gospelle  seythe :  et  cognoverunt  eum  infrac- 
tioiie  Panis.  And  nyghe  that  Cytee  of  Tyberie  is  the  Hille  where  oure 
Lord  fed  5  thousand  persons,  with  5  barley  Loves  and  2  Fisshes.  In 
that  Cytee  cast  an  brennynge  Dart  in  wratthe  aftir  our  Lord,  and  the 
Hed  smot  in  to  the  Erthe,  and  wax  grene,  and  it  growed  to  a  gret  Tree  ; 
and  zit  it  growethe,  and  the  Bark  thereof  is  alle  lyke  Coles.  .  .  . 
Fast  beside  is  Caphamaum ;  that  Contree  is  clept  the  Galilee  of  Folke 
(Gentiles)  that  were  taken  to  Tribute  of  Sabulon  and  Neptalym." 

The  horseback  ride  from  Safed  to  the  shore  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee 
requires  of  an  interested  traveller  five  or  six  hours.     It  can  be  "  done  " 


IJV  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


in  one-half  that  time.  As  the  descent  over  the  winding-,  rocky  road  is 
made,  the  water  is  soon  partly  hidden  from  view,  and  is  frequently  al- 
together out  of  sight.  The  crater-like  depression  seems  to  deepen; 
the  mountains  round  about  appear  to  g-row  higher  and  to  fall  back 
farther  from  the  shores.  The  last  thousand  feet  are  through  narrow, 
rocky  pathways  of  steep  descent,  which  lead  one  to  the  shore  near  the 
hot  springs  below  Tiberias.  A  large  structure  is  located  there,  into 
which  come  pouring  from  the  mountain-side  four  impulsive  streams  of 


The  Warm  Baths  of  Tiberias, 


hot,  sulphurous  water,  the  bulk  of  which  is  arrested  by  a  canal  and  led 
into  a  huge  basin.     The  overflow  empties  into  the  lake. 

Pilgrims  come  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe  to  end  their  days  at 
the  holy  city  of  Tiberias,  and  meanwhile  endeavor  to  prolong  life  by 
bathing  in  the  water  of  these  springs.  The  greater  number  are  Jews, 
and  they  may  be  seen  straggling  along  the  beach  at  all  hours,  on  the 
way  to  the  baths.  The  afflicted  either  i)lunge  or  are  helped  into  the 
basin,  and  remain  there  many  hours.  The  air  is  suffocating  j  the  scene 
is  pitiful  and  sickening. 

The  only  point  of  interest  south  of  the  baths,  on  the  western  shore, 
is  where  the  Jordan,  having  passed  through  the  sea,  mak^s  its  depart- 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE.  329 

ure,  and  follows  on  southward,  now  through  fertile  meadows,  now  be- 
tween the  hills  which  border  it.  A  ford  is  there.  Formerly  there  was 
a  bridge,  with  a  long,  extended  causeway.  A  great  sea-wall  kept  the 
turbulent  waters  under  control.  Even  now  the  Jordan  often  plunges 
and  swirls  as  though  maddened  by  the  interruption  of  the  lake,  and 
drives  hastily  onward,  only  to  be  intercepted  again,  and  forever  brought 
to  a  stand-still  by  the  bitter  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea.  Mounds  of  rub- 
bish abound  at  this  southern  extremity  of  the  lake,  telling  where  a 
Phenician  fortress  and  the  Koman  city  of  Tarichea,  numbering  about 
forty  thousand  inhabitants,  stood.  Here,  too,  was  the  great  fishing- 
XDort  where  the  navy  was  organized.  One  crossing  the  river  at  this 
point  would  find  an  interesting  excursion  up  the  valley  of  the  Yarmuk 
as  far  as  where  it  breaks  forth  from  the  bosom  of  the  mountains  of  Gil- 
ead  and  Jaulan.  But  our  interest  at  present  lies  northward,  and  we 
turn  back. 

A  small,  rude  stone  pier  reaches  a  few  feet  out  into  the  sea,  near 
the  hot  springs.  There  the  masters  of  the  one  or  two  boats  which 
comprise  the  present  navy  of  Galilee  land  their  freight  of  fish  and  ar- 
range for  excursions.  A  boat-ride  affords  ocular  demonstration  of  the 
sudden  and  remarkable  meteorological  changes  which  take  place.  The 
water  may  be  calm  and  placid  when  the  departure  is  made,  but  before 
the  boat  is  half  a  mile  off  shore  the  wind  may  rise,  and  the  water  be- 
come so  perturbed  that  there  is  no  safety  except  in  turning  back. 
Fortunate  is  the  navigator  who  is  not  defeated,  in  the  effort  to  land 
again,  by  the  mountains  of  spray  and  foam  that  sport  with  the  rude 
boat  as  if  it  were  but  a  palm-branch. 

Again,  an  excursion  may  be  easily  made  early  in  the  morning,  when 
the  water  is  as  still  as  death,  and  all  on  the  western  shore  is  reflected — 
doubled,  and  inverted  in  the  calm  surface  of  the  sea.  During  the  night 
of  such  a  day  the  wind  may  tear  the  tent-pins  from  the  sand  and  throw 
the  tents  down  upon  the  head  of  the  trustful  traveller  with  a  crash. 
Frequently  a  cold  hail-storm  accompanies  the  wind,  sending  home  the 
lesson  of  man's  weakness  at  such  times  of  turbulence  and  terror. 

The  towns  on  the  Sea  of  Galilee  that  are  inhabited  are  still  farther 
north.  The  first  one  reached  is  Tiberias,  discovered  by  the  tall  min- 
aret of  its  mosque  and  the  round  towers  of  its  southern  wall.  The  first 
Christian  church  is  said  to  have  been  built  on  this  spot  by  Constantine, 
in  the  fourth  century,  and  was  called  St.  Peter's.     Justinian  rebuilt  the 


330 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


walls  of  the  city.    It  was  sacked  in  the  seventh  century  by  Caliph 
Omar;   in  the  twelfth,  by  Saladin.     Then  the  real  ruin  began.     The 


Tiberias,  from  the  North. 


Tiberias,  from  the  South. 

splendid  palaces, 

churches,    and 

synagogues    b  e  - 

gan  to    crumble, 

and    finally    an 

earthquake  completed  the  devastation.     An  atmosphere  of  desolation 

hangs  about  the  place  like  a  chilly  fog. 

Hebron,  Jerusalem,  Safed,  and  Tiberias  became  the  "  holy  cities  "  of 

the  Jews  after  the  Roman  persecution  had  ceased  somewhat.      The 

Sanhedrim  was  at  Tiberias  for  a  number  of  years.  Thirteen  syna- 
gogues were  here  at  one  time,  each  one 
having  a  school  connected  with  it  as  cer- 
tainly as  the  present  churches  have  their 
Sunday-schools.  A  Jewish  school  of  lan- 
guages became  the  centre  of  the  Jewish 
faith.  To  learn  Hebrew  from  a  rabbi  of 
Tiberias  is  even  yet  considered  a  gTeat 
privilege. 

The  old  synagogue  carries  one  back  a 
thousand  years.  Its  roof  is  supported  by 
stone  arches  and  columns.  In  the  centre  is 
a  great  cage-like  inclosure,  constructed  of 
wood  which  is  dried  and  twisted  by  cen- 
turies of  exposure,  but  yet  as  sound  as  when  hewed  from  the  log. 

This  is  the  reading-place.    Ascending  the  steps  which  lead  to  the  in- 


Reading-place  in  the  Synagogue  at 
Tiberias. 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE, 


331 


terior,  the  rabbi  opens  the  scroll  and  begins  to  teach  and  intone.  The 
assembled  congregation  walk  around  the  cage,  muttering  and  gesticu- 
lating, some  chiming  in  in  a  high  key,  or  imitating  the  blasts  of  a 
trombone  through  the  hands.  Some  weep  as  they  frantically  throw  up 
their  arms;    others  kiss  their  phylacteries  as  they  fold  and  unfold 


■-r-~-  '  ""'^i-I?^-- 


Bowers  on  the  House-tops,   Magdala. 


them  about  the  left  arm 
and  the  head ;  others  march 
around  and  beat  time  with 
their  hands  and  feet.  Any 
reference  to  the  coming  of 
the  Messiah  excites  them 
to  frenzy. 

Little  else  remains  in 
Tiberias  to  interest  the  student.  Kelics  of  the  past  are  found  inter- 
mingled with  the  necessities  of  the  present.  Disks  cut  from  the  sye- 
nite columns  of  the  old  temple  serve  as  millstones  to  grind  barley  for 
the  sons  of  Mohammed ;  fine  old  porphyry  columns  are  thrown  upon 
the  ground  and  hollowed  out  for  public  horse-troughs ;  threshing- 
floors  are  paved  with  bits  of  frieze  chiselled  after  Grecian  designs  paid 
for  by  Herod  Antipas. 


332  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

The  cattle  are  slaughtered  in  the  public  thoroughfares,  the  streets 
are  hopelessly  filthy,  the  bazars  are  unattractive,  the  people  are  de- 
pressed ;  and,  as  the  drag-oman  tells  us,  "  the  king  of  the  fleas  "  resides 
here.  Yet  here  come  the  pilgrim  Jews  to  die,  in  order  that  their  bones 
may  rest  close  to  the  tombs  of  their  wise  men  who  have  gone  before ; 
some  declare  that  here  the  Messiah  will  appear. 

From  Tiberias  the  ride  along  the  lake  shore  to  Magdala  is  a  lovely 
one.  The  face  of  the  lake  may  be  viewed  its  whole  length.  Now,  in- 
stead of  being  covered  with  sand  and  gravel  or  tiny  shells,  the  beach  is 
more  rocky,  and  here  and  there  a  cliff  reaches  out  to  the  shore — some- 
times so  tumbling  its  black,  basaltic  debris  into  the  water  that  the 
horses  must  step  into  the  lake  to  pass  by  the  obstructions.  Now  the 
path  again  ascends.  The  shores  are  either  marshy  or  so  overgrown 
with  thistles  and  reeds  as  to  make  travel  impossible.  On  each  side,  the 
soft  colors  of  the  cliff— yellow  and  white  and  red — remind  the  traveller 
that  he  is  in  the  Orient. 

Again  the  path  changes  toward  the  lake  and  descends  to  El-Mejdel, 
or  Magdala,  the  *'  Watch-tower."  The  poor,  squalid  little  town,  hugged 
in  behind  its  low  wall,  seems  to  have  crept  down  to  the  shore  in  self- 
defence  to  escape  the  suffocating  heat  of  the  cliff  reflected  uj)on  it  as 
from  a  fiery  furnace.  Magdala  has  but  a  single  palm,  but  its  view  of 
the  sea  is  sublime.  From  its  old-time  "  Watch-tower  "  nearly  the  whole 
expanse  of  the  plain  of  Gennesaret  may  be  viewed.  The  inhabitants 
are  wont  to  erect  bowers — or  arbors  of  palm-leaves  and  oleander  bushes 
upon  their  house-tops.  In  these  they  dwell  during  the  hot  season  to 
escape  the  heat  and  to  catch  the  breeze ;  in  the  wet  season  also  they 
resort  to  them  to  get  away  from  the  scorpion  and  the  centipede.  The 
men  and  women  of  Magdala  are  the  farmers  of  the  plain  of  Gennesaret, 
and  there  enact  over  and  over  again  "  the  parable  of  the  sower."  They 
look  as  though  they  never  saw  a  whole  happy  day. 

Magdala  is  at  the  southern  border  of  the  plain.  It  must  have  been 
an  important  place  in  its  best  days.  It  was  and  is  one  of  the  halting- 
places  on  the  caravan  road  leading  from  Jerusalem  to  Damascus,  Bag- 
dad, and  Nineveh.  The  walk  from  Magdala  to  Khan  Minyeh  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  and  enjoyable  in  all  Palestine.  On  the  left  is  the 
wide  i)lain  of  Gennesaret,  dotted  here  and  there  with  the  picturesque 
people  ploughing  and  pushing  their  phlegmatic  teams.  Beyond  is  the 
deep  wady  El-Hamam,  which  leads  toward  the  "  Horns  of  Hattin,"  the 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE. 


333 


"  Mount  of  Beatitudes."    On  the  right  is  the  sea,  with  all  its  attendant 
charms.     Turn  as  you  will,  the  view  is  sublime. 

Soon,  now,  an  entirely  new  feature  breaks  the  landscape.     The 
plain  comes  to  a  sudden  termination,  and  a  great  black  cliff  rises  in  the 


way.    A  stream  comes  hurrying  down 

the  incline  toward  the  sea,  and  the 

clatter  of  a  mill-wheel  disturbs  the 

stillness.     The  voice  of  the  turtle  is 

heard  here  and  there  coming  up  from 

the  stream.     From   the   great  marsh 

which  spreads  out  toward  the  lake  the  wild  fowl  rise  in  flocks,  and 

fly  frightened  back  far  into  the  El-Hamam  Yalley. 

At  the  foot  of  the  cliff  is  Ain-Et-Tin,  the  "  Fountain  of  the  Fig." 
This  spot  is  also  called  Khan  Minyeh,  and  has  been  thought  by  some 
geographers  to  be  the  site  of  ancient  Capernaum.  Plenty  of  evidences 
of  the  civilization  and  artistic  tastes  of  the  past  are  here — ruins  scat- 
tered about  in  profusion.  A  section  of  a  deep  aqueduct  cuts  through 
the  cliff,  and  serves  as  part  of  the  roadway.  When  Josephus  came 
hither  in  pursuit  of  the  Komans,  his  horse  fell  in  the  bog  and  threw 
him.  "  But  for  this  unforeseen  accident  I  should  have  been  victori- 
ous," said  the  great  general  and  historian. 

Tell  Hum,  an  hour's  journey  north  of  Khan  Minyeh,  is,  however, 


>r     I 


THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE,  335 

deemed  by  many  modem  scholars  the  site  of  Capernaum.  Devout  pil- 
grims believe  that  the  ruins  of  a  synagogue  lying  here  are  those  of  the 
one  erected  by  the  Koman  centurion  mentioned  in  Luke  vii.  5.  If  so, 
then  Christ's  discourse  on  "  that  bread  of  life  "  was  delivered  there ; 
there  the  demoniac  was  healed,  and  the  stony  columns  still  standing" 
echoed  the  divine  words  as  he  taught  "  the  multitude,"  for  "  they  went 
into  Capernaum ;  and  straightway  on  the  Sabbath-day  he  entered  into 
the  synagogue,  and  taught "  (Mark  i.  21). 

Eiding  along  the  shore,  one  would  hardly  look  for  such  a  pictur- 
esque pile  among  the  tall  reeds  and  grasses  as  this  is,  and  yet  the 
synagogue  stood  near  the  shore.  No  doubt  it  was  the  pride  of  the 
once  wealthy  city,  and  drew  its  congregations  from  all  over  the  sur- 
rounding country.  Doubtless,  the  sea  presented  a  picturesque  and 
lively  scene,  with  sailing  vessels  and  boats,  on  the  days  when  it  was 
thought  that  "  the  Nazarene  "  would  make  his  appearance  at  the  syna- 
gogue. The  people  then  were  quite  as  excitable  as  they  are  to-day, 
and  no  doubt,  when  the  crowd  separated  and  opened  a  line  for  Jesus  to 
pass  through,  he  was  mtness  to  many  strange  sights.  He  was  the  ob- 
served of  all  observers  too,  and  the  object  of  hatred  from  many  a  fanat- 
ical Jew  who  would  not,  and  did  not  wish  to,  "  understand  Him."  The 
excited  rabbi,  the  beggar  in  rags,  the  devout  watcher  "  for  Messias  to 
come,"  the  little  children,  the  mocker,  the  halt  and  the  lame  and  the 
blind,  all  swarmed  there  to  hear  the  voice  of  Jesus.  Doubtless,  the 
proud  Centurion  came  also,  little  thinking,  and  perhaps  caring  less, 
that  the  splendid  structure  which  had  been  erected  at  his  expense,  after 
the  strictest  style  of  the  architects  of  his  master,  Herod,  would  some 
day  lie  a  mass  of  broken  columns  and  rough  marble  blocks,  the  only 
remaining  witnesses  to  the  splendor  of  the  rich  city  over  which  he 
ruled.  But  the  synagogue  was  not  the  preferred  place  where  Jesus 
taught  and  performed  his  acts  of  mercy. 

Seated  in  a  boat  at  Capernaum,  "  a  little  way  from  the  shore," 
Christ  also  taught;  at  Capernaum  Zebedee  lived  and  trained  James 
and  John  to  follow  his  vocation;  there  Andrew  and  Peter  dwelt — 
mended  their  nets  and  landed  their  fish ;  there  four  of  the  disciples 
were  summoned  to  become  "  fishers  of  men."  And  yet,  withal,  Caper- 
naum was  a  very  wicked  place  and  received  the  special  upbraiding  of 
Jesus.  Tyre  and  Sidon  were  cities  known  for  their  wickedness,  and  the 
story  of  Sodom  was  always  told  with  awe.    Yet  Jesus  announced  that 


336 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


Capernaum  was  even  worse.  The  marvellous  miracles,  the  healing*  of 
the  afflicted,  the  plain  and  pointed  parables  illustrated  from  the  glori- 
ous sun'oundings  of  nature,  the  remonstrances  and  the  threats,  were  all 


The  Sea  of  Galilee  at  Capernau 


of  little  avail  in  saving  Capernaum  from  its  doom,  even  though  it  pro- 
claimed to  the  nations  "I  will  exalt  my  throne  above  the  stars  of 
God." 

From  Khan  Minyeh  to  "  Bethsaida  of  the  West "  the  ride  is  less 
than  two  hours,  and  rather  a  rough  one.  There  was  also,  some  think,  a 
Bethsaida  east  of  the  Jordan.  Neither  site  holds  much  of  interest  to- 
day. Only  the  saddest  of  feelings  are  awakened  when  one  sees  how  the 
"  tooth  of  time  "  has  left  little  but  "  dry  bones."  At  Bethsaida  West 
the  houses  are  built  of  mud,  on  a  framework  of  reeds.  They  are  more 
squalid  than  any  along  the  coast.  The  fishermen  use  the  quay  for  dry- 
ing and  mending  their  nets. 

Upon  the  house-tops  are  sections  of  polished  antique  columns,  used 
as  rollers  to  flatten  the  grassy  sod  of  which  the  roofs  are  made.  With 
a  cheerful  croon,  an  old  mill  greets  the  little  stream  which  creeps  into 
it,  and  seems  to  be  about  the  only  disturber  of  the  prevailing  quiet. 
It  is  a  picturesque  scene,  with  all  its  dreariness.  On  right  and  left  are 
the  mountains ;  in  full  view  beyond  is  the  whole  expanse  of  the  lake. 
Hurely,  nature  has  made  up  for  the  interest  which  the  unambitious  in- 
habitants fail  to  inspire  in  the  expectant  traveller. 

Less  life  and  a  worse  "  woe  "  are  found  at  KerAzeh,  supposed  to  be 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE.  33T 

Chorazin.  The  ruins  are  about  two  miles  north  of  Khan  Minyeh. 
There  is  said  to  be  "  a  path  "  up  the  hillside  which  leads  to  them,  but 
"  woe  "  be  to  the  man  who  tries  to  follow  that  path  with  his  horse.  He 
will  be  glad  enough  to  dismount,  and  would  be  still  more  delighted  if 
he  could  carry  his  poor  animal  and  prevent  it  from  straining  and 
spraining  its  limbs  in  the  effort  to  clamber  over  the  rocky  ruins  hidden 
among  the  wheat  and  tares  and  thistles.     Chorazin  must  have  been 


Bethsaida  West. 

built  partly  on  a  hill  and  partly  in  a  valley,  for  the  heaps  of  quarried 

stone  abound  both  on  a  long  ridge  and  at  the  bottom  of  the  hollow. 

Here  and  there  they  look  as  if  they  had  been  methodically  piled  in  the 

effort  to  clear  some  of  the  land  for  agricultural  purjDoses.     Near  by  is 

a  wild  gorge  called  "  Wady  Kerazeh."    From  the  higher  elevation  a 

lovely  view  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  is  obtained,  reaching  to  the  extreme 

southern  limit,  though  it  is  not  nearly  so  impressive  as  the  view  from 

Safed. 

The  ruins  of  a  synagogue  may  be  plainly  made  out,  and  some  of  the 
23 


338  /iV  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

abiding-places — the  houses  of  the  fated  city — may  be  traced  by  their 
strong  walls  and  still  unbroken  doorways.  The  roofs  were  apparently 
supported  by  columns  in  the  centre.  Sometimes  one,  sometimes  two 
columns  were  so  used.  Some  of  the  houses  had  small  windows,  and  as 
many  as  four  apartments.  A  rank  growth  of  thorns  and  thistles  covers 
a  large  portion  of  the  ruins  of  Chorazin.  The  industrious  explorer, 
by  beating  such  intruders  aside,  is  almost  sure  to  reveal  the  hiding- 
place  of  some  quarried  capital  or  column.  A  Bedouin  farmer  has  piled 
some  of  the  stones  of  Chorazin  against  a  hillside  so  as  to  form 
a  home.  There  is  a  fragment  of  frieze  at  his  door  which  would  be 
prized  in  any  museum;  and  he  has  placed  an  ancient  wooden  arch 
over  his  doorway. 

Thus  much  for  the  towns  situated  on  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  The  natu- 
ral points  of  interest  connected  with  the  sea  are  the  plain  of  Genne- 
saret,  the  "  Horns  of  Hattin  "  (the  supposed  "  Mountain  of  the  Beati- 
tudes "),  and  the  historical  valley  of  El-Hamam,  which  connects  them. 

The  beautiful  plain  of  Gennesaret  reaches  from  Magdala  to  Khan 
Minyeh,  and  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  sea.  On  the  west  it  is 
partly  bordered  by  the  hills  which  start  at  Safed  and  continue  south- 
ward as  far  as  we  can  see.  The  afternoon  view  of  the  plain  is  the  most 
brilliant,  for  then  the  sunshine  is  full  upon  it  and  the  elevations  be- 
yond. That  brings  out  all  the  glorious  coloring  to  its  full  value — the 
hundred  varieties  of  wild  flowers ;  the  "  lilies  of  the  field ;  "  the  fields 
green  and  golden  and  tare-tangled ;  the  squares  of  yellow  mustard ;  the 
pink  tracts  of  newly  ploughed  soil ;  the  rank  growth  of  blossomed  this- 
tles ;  the  shining  streams  and  the  glistening  fountains,  and  the  cliifs 
beyond,  catching  the  glare  and  giving  us  the  details  of  their  dark 
shadows.  One  is  reminded  by  the  shape  of  things  of  a  valley  scene  in 
Northern  New  Hampshire,  only  New  Hampshire  shows  no  such  luxuri- 
ant coloring.  It  seems  impossible  to  push  through  the  thickets ;  but 
there  are  pathways,  and  the  horse  finds  them.  Here  and  there  groups 
of  sycamores  hide  placid  fountains,  which  bubble  up  at  their  feet,  re- 
flect their  images  upon  the  shining  surface,  and  then  overflow  among 
tall  grasses  and  proceed  upon  their  benign  errand  of  giving  life  to  the 
lovely  plain. 

Josephus,  in  speaking  generally  of  tho  region  of  Galilee,  praises  the 
soil  and  the  temper  of  the  air,  which  in  his  day  fostered  the  growth 
and  fruitfulness  of  many  varieties  of  trees — the  palm  and  the  walnut, 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE. 


339 


the  fig"  and  the  olive,  all  growing"  well  together.  In  his  day  the 
inhabitants  were  industrious  and  prosperous.  To-day  Moslem  rule 
blasts  all  growth.  One  bit  of  history  seems  to  be  repeated  on  and  on. 
"  The  harvest  truly  is  plenteous,  but  the  laborers  are  few."    There  are 


The  Sea  of  Galilee,  South  of  Chorazin. 


An  Arab  Home. 


more  idlers  hereabouts,  who  live  on  the  charity  of  their  creedsmen  in 
Europe,  than  there  are  industrious  husbandmen.  They  still  "  pray 
standing  in  the  synag-ogiies  and  in  the  comers  of  the  streets ; "  but  they 
will  not  aid  in  making  this  "  ambition  of  nature  "  productive. 

We  now  leave  the  plain  and  enter  Wady  El-Hamam,  an  hour's 
journey  southward  from  Medjel.  The  visitor  familiar  with  the  Fran- 
conia  Notch  in  New  Hampshire  would  ag-ain  see  a  resemblance  here. 
On  the  left  of  the  gorge  is  a  cliff  not  unlike  "  Eagle  Cliff."  It  is  over 
one  thousand  feet  high  and  almost  perpendicular;  on  the  right  is  a 
bluff,  much  higher,  more  terrific,  and  requiring  but  little  imag-ination 
to  trace  outlines  similar  to  those  of  the  "  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain." 
A  backward  look  presents  a  stretch  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  which  brings 
"  Echo  Lake  "  to  mind.  Then  the  similarity  ends ;  for  instead  of  mag- 
nificent shrubbery  such  as  clothes  much  of  the  rugged  inclines  of  Fran- 


340  IN  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

conia  Notch,  here  but  little  foliage  grows.  But  there  have  been 
growth  and  life  enough  here,  of  a  far  different  nature,  if  we  may  trust 
the  accounts  of  Josephus  and  his  fellow-historians  for  our  data.  In 
the  face  of  the  cliffs  on  each  side,  reached  by  lofty  stone  stairways,  tier 
above  tier,  are  vast  caverns  cut  from  the  rock,  with  their  open  door- 
ways toward  the  valley,  and  protected  by  walls.  They  were  the  homes 
of  robbers  in  the  time  of  Herod  Antipas ;  the  refuge  of  the  persecuted 
Jew  and  the  brave  Crusader  in  more  modern  days.  Now  they  harbor 
the  "  wild  birds  of  the  air,"  which  fly  out  and  then  back  again  to  "  their 
nest  "  as  we  approach,  and  here  too  "  the  foxes  have  holes." 

Caves,  graves,  and  other  signs  of  former  habitation  abound  in  this 
historical  valley.  Ruins  of  towns,  often  surrounded  by  fortresses,  are 
here,  all  constructed  by  the  Saracens  or  by  those  who  came  long  before 
their  time.  The  district  is  full  of  places  which  have  long  been  held 
sacred  by  the  Jews. 

We  now  approach  the  spot  which  is  looked  upon  by  many  as  the 
place  where  Jesus  sat  when  "  teaching  the  multitudes  "  who  followed 
him.  "  Kurun  Hattin  " — the  "  Horns  of  Hattin  " — are  upon  the  moun- 
tain-ridge followed  in  journeying  from  Safed  to  the  Sea  of  Galilee. 
Below  them  is  a  wide  plateau  where  the  assembled  multitude  could 
have  been  seated  while  listening  to  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount,  when  the 
sweetness  of  the  Beatitudes  was  revealed  to  them  by  the  lips  of  Jesus. 
The  cool  stillness  of  the  morning  should  be  chosen  for  the  visit  to  this 
spot.  A  few  clouds  may  lie  sleeping  in  the  valley  of  El-Hamam  then, 
and  the  thickets  by  the  pathway  may  scatter  their  store  of  dew  upon 
you  if  you  touch  them.  As  the  breeze  increases  and  the  light  pene- 
trates, the  dew-drops  creep  down  the  stalks  to  the  ground;  like  the 
summer  waves  of  the  sea,  rising  and  receding,  always  gently,  the  grain 
bends  beneath  the  winds.  As  soothing  as  balm  is  the  soft,  warm 
breath  of  the  pure  air,  laden  with  the  perfume  of  blossoms  and  falling 
upon  the  brow  like  a  benediction.  Yet,  upon  this  very  plain,  more 
than  once,  the  roar  of  battle  has  been  heard.  In  July,  1187,  the  plain 
of  Hattin  was  the  gathering  place  of  the  Crusaders — the  spot  where 
they  were  hemmed  in  by  the  hosts  that  Saladin  led  against  them.  At 
early  dawn  the  clash  of  sword  and  the  storm  of  arrow  and  javelin  be- 
gan. Brave  was  the  charge  of  the  Saracens,  and  braver  still  the  defence 
of  the  retreating  Christians.  Driven  to  and  from  their  stronghold  on 
Hattin,  they  were  vanquished,  and  the  fate  of  their  cause  was  sealed. 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE.  341 

From  the  historical  mountain-top  is  seen  Safed,  the  city  which 
some  scholars  believe  to  be  the  place  alluded  to  by  Jesus  when  he  said 
"  a  city  that  is  set  on  a  hill  cannot  be  hid." 

The  two  "  Horns  "  of  Hattin  seem  to  have  been  protected  by  mas- 
sive structures.     The  approach  to  the  higher  one  is  easy  from  one  side, 


■:^#^^: 


The  Horns  of  Hattin.     (The  Mount  of  Beatitudes.) 


while  to  the  northeast  there  is  a  sheer  ascent  of  over  seven  hundred 
feet.  The  white  limestone  hills,  the  basaltic  cliffs,  the  modern  village 
of  Hattin  in  the  plain  below,  the  orange-groves  and  the  fruit-gardens, 
the  waving  grain,  the  varied  families  of  flowers,  and  the  groups  of 
Druse  farmers,  present  pictures  at  every  glance. 

In  many  spots  upon  the  plain  the  traveller  will  be  impressed  by  the 
re-enactment  of  the  "  parable  of  the  sower."    Within  a  small  space  he 


342  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

may  see  where  "a  sower  went  forth  to  sow  .  .  .  and  when  he 
sowed,  some  seeds  fell  by  the  wayside.  .  .  .  Some  fell  upon  stony 
places  .  .  .  some  fell  among  thorns  .  .  .  but  other  fell  into 
good  ground." 

Once  more  the  eye  is  turned  for  a  farewell  glance  at  the  distant 
views.     Far  down  through  the  rocky  vista  of  El-Hamam  Valley,  to  the 


A  Fishmg-boat  on  the   Sea  of  Galilee. 

northeast,  one  sees  the  caravans  moving  north  and  south  across  the 
Gennesaret  plain.  Two  thousand  feet  below,  glistening  like  a  mirror 
in  the  sun,  is  the  sacred  sea.  Yet  only  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
water  is  discerned,  for  the  mountains  of  Bashan  and  Gilead  hide  the 
view  with  their  sun-scorched  inclines  and  long  shadows. 

The  mountains  of  the  Hauran  on  the  east  and  the  JauMn  on  the 
south  are  visible.  When  the  air  is  clear,  the  silver  serpentine  line  of 
the  Jordan  may  be  made  out,  gleaming  through  the  foliage — creeping 
through  the  jungle  down  to  the  Dead  Sea. 

If  there  be  one  word  which  fell  from  the  Divine  Teacher  that  im- 
presses the  mind  more  than  any  other  at  this  place,  it  is  "  Peace,"  for 
there  is  so  much  here  to  suggest  it.  Nature  moves  on  in  her  luxuriant 
course,  peacefully,  calmly,  with  no  discord.  The  freshness  of  the 
morning,  the  repose  of  noonday,  the  golden  tints  and  purple  shadows 
of  evening,  the  reflections  of  the  stars  on  the  bright  surface  of  the  sea. 


THE  SEA   OF  GALILEE.  343 

all  bring"  in  continued  succession  the  messages  of  peace.  Much  more 
is  this  so  now  than  when  Jesus  dwelt  at  Capernaum.  The  city  of  his 
adoption  is  in  ruins.  On  the  sea  to-day  sails  no  boat  with  a  deck  upon 
which  he  could  sit  and  teach  the  multitudes  on  the  shore.  The  multi- 
tudes are  gone  to  rest.  The  synagogues  are  in  ruins,  and  "  the  cities 
wherein  most  of  his  mighty  works  were  done"  are  no  more.  The 
jealous  Herod  and  his  host  of  flatterers  are  gone.  But  there  are  the 
same  mountains  that  echoed  the  voice  of  Jesus  Christ.  Here,  like  a 
floor  of  adamant,  still  is  spread  the  blue  sea  on  whose  troubled  waters 
he  walked  in  the  "  fourth  watch  of  the  night " — where  twice  he  rose  and 
"  rebuked  the  winds,"  and  said,  "  Peace,  be  still ;  "  and  it  is  here  that  he 
came  to  meet  the  disciples  after  his  resurrection. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

FROM  THE   COAST,    ACROSS  LEBANON   TO   DAMASCUS. 

Tyre  and  Sidou. — In  the  "  Borders."— Crossing  Mount  Lebanon. — Coele  Syria. — The  Orou- 
tes  and  the  Leontes. — The  Natural  Bridge, — The  Anti-Lebanon  Range. — The  Has- 
bany. — The  Bridge. — The  Fountain  of  Dan. — Caesarea  Philippi  of  Old. — Banias,  the 
Modern. — The  Headwaters  of  the  Jordan, — The  Cave  and  Shrine  of  Pan. — Mount  Her- 
mon. — The  Castle  of  Banias. — Departure  for  Damascus. — Through  the  Country  of 
the  Druses, — Damascus  in  Sight. — In  "Paradise." — The  Scene  of  Paul's  Conversion. 
— The  Escape  of  Paul, — The  House  of  Naaman. — Damascus  Old  and  New. — The  Streets 
and  the  People. — The  Rivers  of  Damascus, — "  The  Street  which  is  Called  Straight." 
— The  House  of  Ananias. — The  Grand  Mosque  and  "the  Minaret  of  Jesus." — The 
Houses  and  Homes, — The  Gates  of  Damascus. 

rriHE  humble  fishermen  of  Tyre  and  Sidon,  the  capitals  of  Phoenicia, 
"■-  had  become  rich  and  influential  merchants  long  before  the  Chris- 
tian era.  By  their  enterprise  they  had  made  their  cities  the  ports  of 
the  East,  and  had  gained  commercial  intercourse  with  other  countries 
bordering  on  the  Mediterranean  and  with  those  beyond.  Instead  of 
being  a  barbarous  people,  with  unattractive  surroundings,  they  pos- 
sessed many  of  the  signs  of  elegance  and  taste  which  marked  the  cities 
of  the  West.  Theatres  were  numerous;  baths  abounded;  and  the 
shows,  the  games,  and  the  combats  of  wild  beasts  caused  the  people 
from  all  parts  to  pour  into  the  Phoenician  cities. 

But  little  remains  at  Tyre  or  Sidon  now  to  give  evidence  of  their 
past.  Seldom  does  a  modem  vessel  touch  at  either  port.  The  rai:)id 
traveller  of  to-day  is  content  with  a  passing  glimpse  of  them  through  a 
marine  glass.  When  the  weather  is  fair,  the  Mediterranean  steamers 
pass  near  the  shore  and  make  such  an  opportunity  possible,  though 
that  "  soft  artistic  haze,"  so  fascinating  to  the  painter,  is  apt  to  obscure 
the  distance,  and  shut  from  view  the  inclines  bare,  yet  lovely,  which 
stretch  inland.  But  when  Tyre  and  Sidon  were  in  their  glory,  how 
beautiful  the  scene  must  have  been !  Then  the  richly  cultivated  farms 
reached  down  to  the  very  borders  of  the  sea,  and  each  cape,  promon- 
tory, and  hill-top  exposed  to  the  glittering  rays  of  the  sun  the  white 


ACMOSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS.  345 

walls  of  some  prosperous  town  or  the  sumptuous  dwelling  of  a  landed 
proprietor. 

A  small  but  magnificent  port  was  then  part  of  the  glory  of  each 
city.  AVhen  Herod  ruled  in  Phoenicia,  these  harbors  were  continually 
crowded  with  the  vessels  of  all  nations.  The  noise  and  confusion  were 
scarcely  less  than  at  Antioch  or  Kome.  The  cities  and  the  ports, 
though  not  extensive,  always  teemed  with  life,  and  were  vivid  with  a 
wealth  of  color.  The  moving  vessels,  the  rude  encounters  of  the  sail- 
ors, the  roarings  of  the  wild  beasts  which  were  brought  from  the  far 
East  and  South  for  the  public  games,  the  songs  of  the  fishermen,  the 
busy  movements  of  the  merchants — all  together  made  up  picturesque 
scenes  in  endless  variety. 

How  changed  it  all  is  now ! 

Eastward  are  the  undulating,  fruitful  plains,  gay  and  bright  with 
flowers  and  verdure,  backed  by  the  southern  ridges  of  Lebanon.  These 
plains,  extending  from  one  city  to  the  other,  twenty-five  miles,  consti- 
tuted "  the  coasts  of  Tyre  and  Sidon,"  or,  as  the  New  Revision  calls 
them,  "  the  borders." 

One  may  start  from  Sidon  on  the  old  road  and  then  go  through  the 
wooded  pathways  and  the  romantic  ravines  of  the  spurs  of  Lebanon, 
until  a  height  of  six  thousand  feet  or  more  is  reached:  Soon  after  the 
descent  on  the  eastern  side,  the  natural  bridge  which  spans  the  Leontes 
is  crossed,  and  then  the  road  is  good  imtil  the  valley  of  the  upper  Jor- 
dan comes  into  view,  and  a  turn  to  the  south  is  made.  If  the  start  is 
made  early  in  the  day,  the  air  will  be  fresh.  The  first  rays  of  the  sun, 
coming  up  over  the  mountains,  set  aglow  one  line  of  hills  after  another 
as  the  light  descends  and  diffuses  itself  in  the  valley,  at  the  same  time 
awakening  the  laggard  clouds  and  sending  them  up  whence  they  came. 
Peasants  are  met,  now  singly,  now  in  twos,  now  in  groups,  with  loaded 
mule  or  camel,  on  their  way  to  the  markets  of  the  Phoenician  capital ; 
others  are  seen  coming  out  from  their  humble  dwellings,  or  humbler 
tents,  it  may  be,  to  begin  the  labor  of  the  day.  It  is  a  region  full  of 
beauty.  Now  the  sun  is  well  up,  and  the  most  striking  features  of 
Northern  Syria  begin  to  be  revealed.  Hills  of  considerable  height 
abound,  and  remind  one  of  the  lower  ridges  of  the  Apennines,  or  of  the 
New  England  Appalachians.  Some  are  bare  and  rocky,  but  the  major- 
ity are  clothed  with  verdure.  Far  above  the  narrow  road  are  the  ter- 
raced vineyards,  with  the  dwellings  of  the  inhabitants  scattered  among 


346 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


The  Coasts  of  Tyre  and  Sidon. 

them,  the  dwelling  and  the  watch-tower  all  in 
one.  Wherever  the  prospect  opens  and  the 
hills  draw  back,  groups  of  homes  are  seen  set 
closely  together. 
As  in  Southern  Italy,  so  here  the  vines  are  often  trailed 
from  tree  to  tree,  and  from  shrub  to  shrub,  and  so  rich  and  red 
is  their  fruitage  that  they  seem  to  be  dripping  with  blood.  If 
the  vintage  is  in  progress,  the  wild  and  merry  songs  of  the 
laborers  will  be  heard  right  and  left,  only  silenced  for  a  moment  as 
you  are  greeted  with  their  hearty  "  Salaam  ahlaykoom !  "  ("  Peace  go 
with  you !  ")  and  a  free  and  abundant  gift  of  the  fruit  is  pressed  upon 
you. 

Now  the  second  climb  begins.  The  outlooks  from  the  narrow  way 
are  wonderfully  impressive.  One  seems  to  be  travelling  in  the  centre 
of  the  world.  For  there,  far  below,  and  each  hour  growing  farther,  lies 
spread  all  the  world  the  eye  can  see,  while  upward  the  stupendous 
masses  of  what  seem  to  be  parts  of  another  world  pierce  the  clouds  and 
invite  the  pilgrim  on.  As  the  higher  points  are  gained,  the  expanses 
below  widen  and  the  glory  of  the  scene  increases.     On  the  west  is  the 


ACB0S8  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS. 


347 


sea,  whose  breakers  carry  the  warm  breath  of  the  Orient  to  the  shores 
of  Europe ;  on  the  east  is  the  wonderful  desert,  whose  golden  carpet 
stretches  to  the  Persian  Gulf. 

The  land  westward,  over  which  we  have  travelled,  looks  like  a 
miniature  landscape.  The  squatty  woods,  the  g-listening-  streams,  the 
steep  inclines,  the  dots  of  villages,  the  feeble  shouts  of  the  fellahin, 
even  the  thunder  as  it  rumbles  among  the  clouds  far  below — all  strike 
one  as  insignificant  in  comparison  with  the  noble  surrounding  peaks. 


Lebanon  to  Anti-Lebanon. 


Now  we  turn  to  the  east.  Away  across  a  deep  valley  is  another 
range  of  mountains,  snow  covered,  stream  scarred,  broken  by  chasms 
and  ravines  through  its  great  length.  This  is  the  Anti-Lebanon — 
Hermon  its  crown — and  runs  almost  parallel  with  the  range  of  Leb- 
anon itself.  These  two  stupendous. ranges  have  been  pushed  up  from 
the  earth-crust  to  an  altitude,  in  some  places,  of  thirteen  thousand  feet. 
The  great  depression  between  them  is  Ccele  Syria,  or  "  Hollow  Syria." 
Through  it  run  the  two  great  rivers  of  Syria :  the  Orontes,  flowing 


348  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

north  and  entering"  the  Mediterranean  at  Antioch ;  and  the  Leontes, 
crossed  on  our  way,  and  ending  near  Tyre. 

The  plain  is  nine  miles  wide,  and  for  centuries  has  been  the  track 
of  invading  armies.  Nearly  every  foot  has  been  fought  over  by  Assy- 
rians, Egyptians,  Persians,  Romans,  Greeks,  Moslems,  and  Crusaders. 

When  the  atmosphere  is  free  from  haze,  one  can  see  an  incredible 
distance  north  and  south — almost  from  "Dan  to  Beersheba."  North- 
ward, the  Leontes  may  be  traced  almost  to  Baalbec.  Southeastward, 
the  country  of  Bashan  lies  outspread  with  a  surface  undulating  as 
g-ently  as  the  waves  of  the  summer  sea — Gilead,  dotted  with  its  dark- 
green  groves  of  oaks,  rounded  and  inclined  to  suit  the  humor  of  its  ris- 
ing and  falling  expanses  ;  the  first  swell  of  the  Jordan  at  Lake  Huleh, 
the  "  waters  of  Merom ;  "  the  second  widening  of  the  sacred  river — the 
Sea  of  Galilee — and  the  twisting  of  the  connecting  torrent-broken 
stream,  with  miles  of  country  beyond,  are  in  full  view.  If  your  geog- 
raphy serves  you,  there  is  no  trouble  in  locating  Mount  Ebal  and 
Mount  Gerizim,  in  Samaria ;  Mount  Tabor  at  the  head  of  the  plain  of 
Esdraelon;  Mount  Gilboa,  farther  to  the  south;  and  Mount  Carmel, 
by  the  Mediterranean. 

The  eastern  incline  of  the  Lebanon  range  is  not  so  attractive  as  the 
side  toward  the  sea,  and  travelling  there  is  fatiguing.  In  some  places 
the  path  is  so  narrow  and  runs  so  near  the  verge  of  frightful  preci- 
pices, that  one  shudders  every  time  his  carefully-stepping  animal 
grazes  its  side  against  the  walls  of  rock.  The  views  are  magnificent. 
Here  and  there,  on  the  left,  bright  golden  lines  are  seen,  strangely 
smooth  in  contrast  with  the  rugged  scenery.  They  are  parts  of  the 
diligence  road  running  from  Baalbec  to  Beyrout.  When  the  plain  is 
reached,  the  scenes  of  the  western  slope  are  rejpeated.  The  journey 
across  is  a  delightful  one.  The  whole  way  seems  to  be  cultivated,  and 
at  places  thick  groves  of  poplar  and  walnut  are  seen.  Villages  are  con- 
spicuous on  all  sides ;  the  husbandmen  are  busy,  and  flocks  of  sheep 
and  cattle  are  plenty. 

There  are  khans,  or  inns,  by  the  wayside.  These  the  caravan  mer- 
chant considers  very  desirable,  but  they  have  only  an  aesthetic  attrac- 
tion to  the  European  or  the  American,  and  are  without  any  comforts. 
When  the  shades  of  evening  come  on,  crowds  of  travellers,  with 
their  camels,  asses,  and  other  beasts  of  burden,  throng  the  gateways  of 
the  khan.     There  is  always  a  storm  of  bickering  going  on  between  the 


AGEOSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS. 


349 


keeper  of  the  khan  and  his  patrons,  or  among  the  attaches  of  the  cara- 
Yan — merchants  and  servants.     The  khan  is  usually  built  around  a 

court -yard,  with  sheds  or  booths  for  the  an- 
imals occupying  the  ground  floor,  while  the 
travellers  may  take  what  chance  there  is 
for  sleep  on  the  more  elevated  platforms. 

Our  route  brings  our  crossing  of  the 
Leontes  at  the  natural  bridge,  near  the 
toTvn  of  Belat.  The  bridge  seems  to  be 
formed  of  immense  rocks  which  have  fallen 
from  the  sides  of  the  chasm.  It  supplies 
a  safe  and  easy  passage  across  the  stream, 
Avhich  here  is  very  narrow  and  is  broken  up 
by  tumbling  cascades,  but  it  is  so  hidden 
by  the  foliage  that  one  uninformed  as  to  its 
situation  would  scarcely  discover  it.  The 
length  of  the  bridge  is  perhaps  less  than 
one  hundred  feet.  The  width  is  bare- 
ly ten  feet,  but  its  height  above 
the  stream  is  fully  one  hun- 
dred feet.  One's  admiration 
for  it  increases  when,  after 
a  difficult  and  dangerous  de- 
scent, it  is  Adewed  from  the 
level  of  the  stream.  The 
walls  of  the  chasm  are  foiu* 
hundred  to  ^Ye  hundred  feet 
high.  In  season,  the  olean- 
ders reach  out  from  their 
rocky  hold  and  offer  their 
pink  flowers  to  anyone  who 
will  be  tempted  to  risk  his 
life  to  obtain  them.  The 
view  up  the  gorge  toward 
Baalbec  is  grand  and  impressive.  When  standing  upon  any  spur  of 
Lebanon,  one  would  hardly  believe  that  what  there  appeared  to  be 
only  a  green,  velvety  line,  like  a  length  of  soft  chenille  on  edge,  could 
in  reality  be  such  a  deep-cut  scar  in  the  lovely  valley,  with  a  tumult- 


Natural   Bridge  over  the  Leontes. 


350 


11^  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


uous,  deafening*  warfare  of  waters  going*  on  between  its  walls.  A 
return  to  the  caravan  route  brings  the  Anti-Lebanon  range  into  full 
view.  A  few  miles  directly  eastward  is  the  Hasbany,  the  northern- 
most tributary  of  the  Jordan,  and  Mount  Hermon  is  in  full  view,  its 
snowy  range  half  hidden  by  the  clouds.  The  river  is  but  a  passive 
stream  in  comparison  with  the  uneasy  Leontes,  and  there  is  but  little 


Bridge  over  the   Hasbany. 

of  interest  attending  it  until,  as  we  journey  southward,  the  bridge  over 
which  we  cross  on  the  way  to  Csesarea  Philippi  is  reached.  There 
quite  a  deej)  gorge  has  been  cut  by  the  Hasbany,  for  the  descent  is  con- 
siderable and  the  water  is  turbulent.  The  bridge  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  strongest  in  the  land,  and  yet  it  shows  plainly  that  it  has  had  some 
fierce  struggles  with  the  torrents  which  come  down  from  Mount  Hermon 
in  the  spring  of  the  year ;  for  its  walls  are  broken,  and  many  a  stone  has 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS. 


351 


The  Fountain  of  Dan. 


been  carried  away  from  the  strong  masonry  of  the  parapet.  The  sides 
of  the  river  are  lined  with  oleanders,  reeds,  rushes,  and  wild  flowers  of 
infinite  variety.  The  scenery  hereabouts  is  as  lovely  as  that  of  the  St. 
Got  hard  Pass;  but  all 
thoughts  of  Switzerland 
are  dissipated  when  one 
sees  an  Arab  caravan,  with 
its  fifty  awkward  camels 
laden  with  merchandise 
and  as  many  dark-skinned 
attendants  with  their  noisy 
bluster  and  pompous  de- 
meanor, crossing  the 
bridge,  on  its  way  to  Cse- 
sarea  Philippi.  The  mu- 
sic of  the  stream  sounds 
all  the  sweeter  when  the 
caravan  is  lost  in  silence. 

After  crossing  the 
bridge,  we  change    our 

course  to  the  right  for  a  mile,  and  come  upon  the  Fountain  of  Dan,  which 
is  the  largest  spring  in  Syria,  if  not  in  the  world,  and  one  of  the  loveliest 
spots  in  Palestine.  Here  is  another  source  of  the  Jordan  nestled  among 
the  wild  flowers.  Its  waters  once  supplied  the  ancient  city  after  which 
it  is  named.  It  also  marks  the  northern  border  of  Palestine.  To  possess 
its  cool  waters,  more  than  one  fierce  combat  has  taken  place.  Here  Lot 
was  brought  a  prisoner  from  Sodom  by  the  five  kings  of  Mesopotamia, 
and  hither  came  Abram  to  rescue  him.  The  growth  of  flowers  is  charm- 
ing. It  includes  our  own  red  poppy,  the  daisy,  white  and  yellow  roses, 
the  thistle,  the  blue  flag,  and  the  "  lily  of  the  field."  A  few  rods  down  the 
stream  is  a  grove  of  oak  trees  of  immense  girth.  These  shade  the  grave 
of  an  Arab  sheikh,  and  are  hung  wdth  rags — the  offerings  of  pilgrims. 
Upon  a  portion  of  the  hill  once  stood  the  city  of  Dan.  A  search  amid 
the  neighboring  jungle  of  grasses,  shrubs,  and  scrubs  will  reward  the 
explorer  with  a  sight  of  the  broken-down  walls  of  the  old-time  town 
and  disclose  some  of  the  debris  of  its  once  splendid  structures.  Mount 
Hermon's  snowy  range  is  in  full  view,  in  strange  contrast  with  the 
surrounding  loveliness  of  the  well-cultivated  farms  of  Bashan  which 


352 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


form  the  plain.  From  this  j)lain  rises  the  hill  of  Dan.  Bursting*  forth 
from  the  rocks,  the  water  tumbles  down  the  hill  and  then  forms  the 
"  fountain,"  or  lake.  From  this  it  hurries  on  southward,  and  is  known 
as  the  Leddan  until,  four  miles  below,  it  joins'  a  stream  coming"  from 


Caesarea  Philippi. 


Banias,  which  we  are  yet  to  visit.  A  mile  farther  on  these  two  are 
joined  by  the  Hasbany,  the  largest  of  the  three  Jordan  tributaries; 
then,  together,  they  plunge  through  the  marshes  and  "waters  of 
Merom  "  to  Lake  Huleh.     Thus  the  upper  Jordan  is  created. 

Four  miles  from  Dan  is  Caesarea  Philippi.     After  the  oaks  of  Ba- 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS.  353 

shan  are  left,  the  path  winds  toward  the  northeast.  As  we  approach  the 
city,  the  varying-  landscape  presents  some  lovely  views.  A  broad  ter- 
race is  now  seen,  cut  in  the  side  of  the  mountain  by  some  strange  forces 
of  Nature.  Upon  its  rocky  floor  is  located  Banias — the  Paneas  of  old 
— the  Caesarea  Philippi  of  our  Saviour's  day,  and  the  northernmost 
limit  of  his  wanderings.  The  terrace  is  bounded  by  two  deep,  uninvit- 
ing ravines,  one  on  the  north  and  the  other  on  the  south.  Between 
these,  and  beyond  the  city,  rises  an  isolated  peak  a  thousand  feet  high, 
crowned  by  the  magnificent  ruins  of  the  castle  of  Subeibeh,  or  Banias, 
as  the  modern  dwellers  call  it.  We  shall  visit  it.  From  the  yawning, 
fractured  mouth  of  a  cave  which  covers  a  fathomless  pit,  the  waters  gush 
with  tremendous  power  and  roar  do^Ti  the  ravine  through  a  portion  of 
the  city,  supplying  a  magnificent,  but  almost  unused,  mill  power. 

Caesarea  Philippi  does  not  profit,  however,  by  its  superb  site.  Like 
nearly  all  the  towns  of  Palestine,  its  houses  are  rude  and  out  of  repair ; 
its  people  are  shiftless  and  idle ;  and  its  bazars  are  scarcely  worth  a 
visit.  Nature  supplies  the  bric-a-brac  ;  she  also  supplies  the  centipedes 
and  scorpions  which  infest  the  houses  in  the  wet  season  and  cause  the 
poor,  suffering  inhabitants  to  exercise  sufficient  industry  to  erect  booths 
of  tree  branches  upon  their  flat  roofs,  in  which  they  may  sleep  until 
the  plague  ceases. 

The  past  holds  the  principal  points  of  interest  concerning  Caesarea 
Philippi.  When  the  Phoenicians  were  there,  they  established  the  idol- 
atrous worship  of  Baal,  and  enjoyed  their  splendid  iDossessions  until 
Joshua  drove  them  out.  Then  it  was  Baal-gad.  When  the  Greeks 
came,  the  shrine  of  Pan,  the  god  of  the  shepherd  and  of  the  huntsman, 
was  situated  here.  This  gave  it  the  name  of  Paneas.  It  is  now  called 
Banias  by  the  Arab  inhabitants.  In  the  course  of  time  this  region  be- 
came part  of  the  possessions  of  "  Philip,  tetrarch  of  Iturea  and  Trach- 
onitis,"  son  of  Herod  the  Great,  who  rebuilt  the  city,  enlarged  it,  and 
named  it  Caesarea,  in  order  to  gain  the  favor  of  his  emperor,  Tiberius 
Caesar.  That  it  might  not  thus  become  confused  with  Caesarea  on  the 
Mediterranean,  he  added  his  own  name  and  called  it  Caesarea  Philippi. 

All  that  now  remains  of  the  past  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  citadel,  and 
the  shrines  which,  similar  to  those  at  Petra,  are  cut  in  the  face  of  the 
rock.  At  the  base  of  a  cliff,  over  one  hundred  feet  high,  is  a  cave  as 
dark  as  the  worship  to  which  it  was  devoted.  Near  its  mouth  are  many 
fragments  of  the  splendid  edifices  which  must  have  been  erected  near 
23 


354 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


by,  and  doubtless  some  of  the  broken  columns  which  adorned  the  cave 
itself,  for  it  was  the  temple  of  Pan — so  a  Greek  inscription  on  the  face 
of  the  cliff  informs  us.  No  wilder  place  could  have  been  chosen  for  the 
worship  of  a  pagan  god.  A  pretty  fluted  roof  with  an  arched  canopy 
adds  to  the  interest  of  one  of  the  shrines,  while  several  tablets  with  de- 
faced inscriptions  are  found  in  another.     The  whole  neighborhood  has 


The  Cave  and  Shrines  of  Pan  at  Caesarea  Philippi. 

a  wild,  uncanny  appearance.  To  the  left  is  the  tomb  of  the  Moslem 
Saint  George.  The  little  white  structure  covers  also  a  fragment  of  the 
white  marble  temple  which,  Josephus  tells  us,  Herod  the  Great  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Augustus. 

Last  of  all  is  the  momentous  incident  of  the  visit  of  our  Lord  to 
Caesarea  Philippi.  "  And  after  six  days  Jesus  .  .  .  bringeth  them 
up  into  a  high  mountain  apart,  and  was  transfigured  before  them." 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS. 


355 


Authorities  disagree  as  to  the  locality  of  this  "  high  mountain  apart." 
No  record  is  g-iven  of  the  employment  of  the  "  six  days."  If  they  were 
filled  with  acts  of  mercy  at  Csesarea  Philippi,  then  undoubtedly  the 
Transfiguration  took  place 
on  one  of  the  peaks  of 
Mount  Hermon.  If  the  six 
days  were  occupied  in  cross- 
ing over  to  Galilee,  a  jour- 
ney which  really  was  taken 
between  the  visit  to  Csesa- 
rea  Philippi  and  the  journey 
from  Capernaum  to  Perea, 
then  Mount  Tabor  has  some 
claims  to  the  honor  of  being- 
the  site  of  that  transcendent 
occurrence.  Mount  Hermon 
again,  is  entitled  to  the  most 
favor,  if  being  the  loftiest 
of  all  the  Holy  Land  moun- 
tains gives  it  any  claim.  It 
is  not  a  single  peak,  indeed, 
but   a  long  ridge  running 

northward  from  Banias,  and  eastward  for  many  miles,  supplying  the 
highest  points  of  the  Anti-Lebanon  range.  It  is  now  called  by  the 
Arabs  "  Jebel-esh-Sheikh  "  (the  Mountain  of  the  Old  Chief),  and  it  still 
serves  as  the  guiding-point  of  the  nomads  who  wander  over  the  desert. 
The  Palestine  sojourner  sees  it  oftener  than  any  other  spot  in  the  land. 
From  the  Mediterranean  above  Joppa,  almost  to  Tyre,  its  long  snowy 
inclines  are  visible.  It  may  be  seen  from  the  Dead  Sea  shores,  and  it 
is  constantly  making  its  appearance  to  the  tourist  as  he  climbs  up  tow- 
ard it  from  Jerusalem  to  Nazareth  and  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  and  thence 
to  the  Fountain  of  Dan. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Hermon  may  be  made  by  several  routes.  Each 
one  of  these  will  reward  the  traveller  for  the  labor  involved  by  a  dis- 
closure of  relics  of  the  genius,  intrepidity,  and  faith  of  the  people  who 
chose  to  dwell  there  in  the  ages  long  past.  From  almost  every  peak  a 
fine  view  is  gained.  Running  northward,  from  wherever  one  stands,  is 
the  Anti -Lebanon  range,  near  the  terminus  of  which  is  the  magnificent 


Mount  Hermon  from  the  Damascus  Road. 


356  IN  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

cluster  of  ruins  at  Baalbec.  The  valley  of  Buka'a  resembles  the  hold 
of  a  gigantic  ship,  smooth  and  gray,  with  the  line  of  the  Leontes 
coursing  through  its  centre  like  a  limitless  keelson.  On  the  other 
side  the  Lebanon  range  rises,  and  we  know  that  the  great  sea  is  still 
beyond.  Turning  east,  we  may  discern  the  serpentine  caravan-route 
reaching  far  out  toward  the  Arabian  desert  and  again  toward  Damas- 
cus, with  the  great  country  of  the  Druses  intervening.  Damascus, 
with  its  olive  orchards,  its  gardens,  and  its  plantations,  seems  so  near 
that  one  is  almost  tempted  to  try  to  startle  the  field  laborers  with  a 
shout.  Gaulanitis  and  Galilee  lie  outstretched  on  either  side  of  the 
Jordan  ;  Lake  Huleh  and  the  Sea  of  Galilee  are  plainly  in  view  ;  the 
whole  depressed  line  of  the  Jordan  may  be  traced  until  it  is  lost 
amidst  the  bitter  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea.  Bashan,  Gilead,  and  the 
entire  route  from  Dan  to  Decapolis  come  within  view  on  the  east; 
while  Samaria,  Galilee,  "  the  coasts  of  Tyre  and  Sidon,"  and  even 
Mount  Carmel  jutting  out  into  the  "  sea  between  lands,"  are  all  as  plain 
as  day.  From  whatever  point  Mount  Hermon  is  viewed,  it  always  in- 
spires one  with  awe  and  veneration.  Upon  its  summit  and  about  its 
base  the  fragments  of  history  abound.  Nothing  except  the  limits  of 
the  perennial  snow  has  been  changed  for  generations. 

Damascus  may  be  reached  by  any  of  the  routes  over,  or  rather 
along.  Mount  Hermon;  but  more  incident  is  afforded  by  the  lower 
route,  because  it  follows  through  the  interesting  country  of  the  Druses. 
The  start  should  be  made  from  Caesarea  Philippi  long  before  sunrise. 
Then  the  horses  will  encourage  you  by  their  quick  and  willing  step  as 
you  urge  them  up  to  the  castle  of  Banias,  which  crowns  an  isolated 
spur  pi  the  Mount  Hermon  range  about  a  mile  to  the  northeast.  It  is 
not  an  easy  climb  for  either  man  or  horse,  but  the  glorious  views 
afforded  compensate  one  for  all  the  difficulties.  Look  back  4  moment 
after  you  have  climbed  half  a  thousand  feet  and  think  ! 

There  is  Caesarea  Philippi  at  your  feet,  and  snowy  Mount  Hermon 
at  your  right  side.  A  most  picturesque  site  for  a  city  is  this  surely.  Li 
all  Palestine  there  is  none  more  so.  The  character  of  the  surrounding 
country  is  Alpine.  A  stream  equal  in  power  to  Fall  Biver  in  Massa- 
chusetts rushes  and  tears  through  the  town,  turning  many  a  mill  in  its 
mad  haste  to  the  Jordan.  Other  snow-clad  peaks  bound  the  valley  on 
one  side,  and  others  less  pretentious  are  seen  in  every  direction.  Here 
was  the  northern  limit  of  the  travels  of  Christ.    Here  Titus  came  after 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS. 


357 


tlie  conquest  of  Jerusalem,  and  compelled  his  Jewish  captives  to  fight 
wild  beasts  in  the  arena.  And  away  above  us  is  the  most  splendid 
group  of  ruins  in  Palestine — the  citadel  of  Banias.  It  was  first  built 
by  the  Eomans,  and  rebuilt  in  turn  by  the  Crusaders,  the  Saracens,  and 
the  Turks.  That  Saracen  and  Templar  clashed  steel  together  here, 
history  tells  us,  but  not  much  is  certainly  known  of  what  happened 


Druse  Ploughman  and  Team. 


previously.  The  descent  from  the  castled  mountain  brings  us  to  the 
highway  to  Damascus.  The  road  from  Caesarea  Philippi  to  Damascus 
is  one  of  the  roughest  in  Syria.  The  roadways  are  covered  with  the 
outcome  of  volcanic  eruption  and  flint,  and  are  very  hard  for  the  horses' 
feet.  Mount  Hermon  is  seen  during  nearly  the  whole  of  a  day's  travel. 
It  is  not  a  peak  from  this  direction,  but  an  extended  ridge.  A  strange 
€Ountry  is  soon  reached.  And  a  new  and  different  people  are  now 
met— the  savage  Druses.  Here,  working  in  the  stony  fields,  I  found  a 
Druse  ploughman,  with  his  comical  but  picturesque  mule  and  buffalo 


358  IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

team.  Odd-looking  enough  though  it  be,  this  is  all  the  style  along  the 
valleys  of  Mount  Hermon.  Two  animals  more  unlike  in  nature  and 
gesture  could  hardly  be  found  than  these.  When  the  mule  would  kick, 
the  sinister  buffalo  remains  firm,  and, when  his  yoke-fellow  grows  fes- 
tive, as  he  sometimes  does,  the  mule  holds  a  controlling  influence,  and 
thus  the  volcanic  sod  is  turned  over  without  much  of  an  eruption.  The 
driver  and  plough  are  always  passive,  and  do  the  least  of  the  work.  As 
we  moved  along  among  the  farmers  we  noticed  many  living  illustra- 
tions of  scripture — just  the  same  as  those  found  in  the  plain  of  Esdrae- 
lon  and  elsewhere.  For  example,  one  often  sees  a  Druse  shepherd  with 
a  lamb  in  his  arms— a  type  of  "  the  good  shepherd,"  surely. 

Although  the  road  to  Damascus  from  Csesarea  Philippi  is  very, 
rough,  there  are  many  bits  of  land  cultivated,  and  many  flocks  are  to  be 
seen  grazing  on  the  hills,  watched  by  their  attendant  shepherds.  The 
most  of  these  shepherds,  being  Druses,  believe  part  of  the  Mohamme- 
dan and  part  of  the  Christian  faith.  They  inhabit  these  mountain 
ranges.  They  are  very  faithful  to  their  flocks,  attending  them  night 
and  day,  through  storm  and  sunshine,  never  forsaking  them  in  the 
hour  of  danger.  They  remind  us  of  Psalms  xxx.  1 ;  John  x. ;  Heb.  xiii. 
20.  A  strange  people  are  they.  Brave,  heroic,  manly ;  as  polite  as  the 
French ;  as  politic  as  a  Congressman.  If  you  are  English,  they  will 
say  "  God  save  Victoria."  Should  you  be  French,  with  uplifted  eyes 
they  will  call  upon  Allah  to  bless  the  model  republic,  and  curse  the 
beard  of  the  grandfather  of  Kaiser  Wilhelm.  Should  you  "  Deutsch 
sprechen,"  what  a  downfall  is  predicted  for  the  city  of  triumphal  arches 
and  the  Commune !  And  how  their  bright  eyes  snap,  and  their  fine 
white  teeth  glisten,  as  they  exclaim  "  tyeeb  " — good — if  you  declare 
your  American  citizenship,  and  your  interest  in  the  pile  of  trade  dol- 
lars at  Washington.  "  Everything  to  everybody  "  is  the  Druse,  but  a 
sublime  mystery  is  he  to  both  politician  and  priest.  The  Druses  are 
an  honest  people,  although  they  have  a  cranky  habit  of  appropriating 
property  not  their  own.  They  are  good  husbandmen,  and  yet  their 
methods  and  implements,  as  we  have  just  seen,  are  most  primitive. 

As  we  near  Damascus,  for  a  few  miles,  we  come  upon  a  good  road- 
way— a  very  rare  thing  in  this  country.  Just  before  reaching  Damas- 
cus the  highway  enters  a  splendid  olive  orchard.  In  no  part  of  the 
world  are  there  such  magnificent  olive  orchards  as  are  here,  upon  the 
borders  of  the  "  Paradise  "  which  surrounds  Damascus.     Famous  fields 


r 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS. 


359 


of  grain,  too,  abound,  and  on  all  sides  of  the  old  city  the  soil  is  produc- 
tive, making  it  none  too  proud  a  boast  of  the  young*  Damascene  to  say,  "  I 
live  in  the  midst  of  Eden."  After  passing  through  some  narrow,  dusty 
streets,  lined  with  walls  of  adobe,  and  en- 
closing splendid  gardens,  the  places  of  in- 
terest begin  to  come  into  view.  The  first  of 
these  is  the  reputed  site  of  Paul's  conversion. 
It  is  now  occupied  by  the  Protestant  ceme- 
tery. The  victims  of  the  terrible  massacre 
of  1860  are  mostly  buried  in  this  place,  and 
their  remains  lie  between  two  large  enclos- 
ures. Here  Paul  was  stricken  with  blind- 
ness, and  cried,  "  Lord,  what  wilt  thou  have 
me  to  do  %  "  But  a  little  further  on,  forming 
a  portion  of  the  city  wall,  is  the  place  visited 
by  the  pilgrims  as  the  scene  of  Paul's  escape. 
Here  it  is  said  Paul  was  let  down  by  his 
friends  in  a  basket  to  escape  the  Jews,  who 
were  watching  all  the  gates  of  the  city  to 
capture  him.  An  arch  is  supposed  to  mark 
the  place.  The  building  is  near  the  "  Gate 
of  Peace,"  and  not  far  from  the  house  of  Naa- 

man,  the  leper.  The  lepers'  hospital  is  now  located  here.  Beyond, 
among  the  tall  walnut  and  poplar  trees,  courses  the  glorious  river  of  Da- 
mascus, the  Barada  [or  the  Abana  of  the  Bible],  one  of  the  rivers  which 
Naaman  preferred  for  bathing  purposes  to  the  turbid  and  muddy  Jordan. 
And  for  this  purpose  no  cleanly  person  of  the  present  dispensation,  who 
has  seen  both  rivers,  would  censure  the  troubled  leper  for  a  single  mo- 
ment, except  for  his  disobedience  (2  Kings  v.).  From  a  hill  back  of 
the  house  of  Naaman  one  may  obtain  a  splendid  view  of  Damascus  old 
and  new.  What  a  sight  it  is  !  In  the  far  distance,  towering  skjrward, 
we  may  see  the  mountains  of  Lebanon,  whose  cedars  are  so  famous. 
A  dark  line  about  a  mile  away  marks  orchards  of  olive-trees,  broken 
here  and  there  by  glistening  i3oplars,  purple  walnuts,  and  stately  cy- 
presses. A  long  bright  line,  still  nearer,  is  the  city  outside  the  walls, 
separated  from  us  by  the  ancient  wall  itself.  A  dark  clump  of  trees  on 
the  right  marks  the  course  of  the  river  Abana,  which  enters  the  city  on 
this  side.     And  now  comes  the  town  itself,  with  its  gray  walls,  flat 


Druse  Shepherd. 


360  IJ^  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 

roofs,  covered  streets,  and  open  courts.  How  curious  it  is !  On  the 
left  is  a  long"  arched  roof,  which  covers  a  part  of  the  "  street  called 
straight." 

Close  by,  built  in  by  the  surrounding-  houses,  but  plainly  seen,  is  a 
relic  of  old-time  Damascus.  It  is  a  ruined  triumphal  arch,  with  four  of 
its  columns  and  a  semi-column  still  standing.  Thus  strangely  inter- 
mixed with  the  new,  instead  of  standing  out  alone,  as  in  Eome  and 
Athens,  is  the  old  Damascus. 

It  is  true  that  the  streets  of  Damascus  are  crowded  from  morning 
to  night,  like  a  town  on  circus  day,  and  are  a  scene  of  hubbub  and  bewil- 
dering confusion ;  men,  dogs,  horses,  camels,  and  donkeys  jolt  against 
each  other  in  careless  commotion.  Here  you  see  the  white  Bagdad 
donkeys,  which  are  a  famous  breed,  and  distinguished  by  the  unusual 
length  of  their  ears.  Their  turbaned  and  bearded  riders  have  the  bear- 
ing of  kings  whether  they  are  in  fact  merchants  or  mendicants.  Among 
the  other  groups  are  Bedouins  of  the  desert,  who  come  to  the  city  to 
make  purchases.  The  men  are  all  tall,  straight ;  they  are  usually  thin, 
have  dark  complexions  and  eyes,  wear  beards,  and  wrap  gay  handker- 
chiefs about  their  heads.  Their  eyes  have  a  fierce  expression,  but  they 
carry  themselves  like  lords. 

Entrance  to  the  old  city  is  made  by  one  of  its  several  gates.  The 
glory  of  Damascus  is  its  splendid  river.  The  Abana  Eiver  courses  its 
way  through  it  in  various  directions,  being  divided  into  several  branches 
just  outside.  It  supplies  the  population  with  water.  Many  quaint  lit- 
tle bridges  cross  it.  The  houses  built  upon  the  wall  of  the  old  city 
sometimes  overreach  it  somewhat.  They  are  supposed  to  be  such  as 
Paul  might  have  been  let  down  from  in  a  basket,  or  such  as  Rahab 
lived  in  when  she  assisted  the  spies  in  escaping  from  their  pursuers. 
A  beautiful  garden  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  wall,  and  close  to  its  right  the 
Abana  Biver  rushes  along  hurriedly  to  the  sea  (Isaiah  vii.  8 ;  viii."  4 ; 
2  Kings  V.  12 ;  Acts  ix.  25 ;  Joshua  ii.).  Without  this  river  Damascus 
could  not  live.  It  is  not  only  the  crowning  glory  of  the  towh,  but 
Damascus  would  be  a  parched  plain  without  it.  Leaping  down  from 
Lebanon,  it  enters  a  wild  ravine,  and  by  means  of  three  lakes  which 
receive  it,  it  is  diffused  over  the  plain.  Canals,  lined  with  verdure  and 
beauty,  carry  on  the  work,  and  lead  it  into  the  city  at  various  elevations. 
Aqueducts,  pipes,  fountains,  and  minor  canals  now  carry  it  into  almost 
every  dwelling  and  into  every  street,  so  that  the  noise  of  the  living 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS. 


361 


A  Syrian  Ass  and  the  Foal  of  an  Ass. 


water  is  heard  in  all  directions.  At  the  street  crossings,  on  the  river, 
here  and  there,  are  bazars  for  the  hungry,  where  bread,  oranges,  eggs, 
milk,  pickled  turnips,  and  "kerbob,"  the  standard  dish  of  grease  and  dirt 
so  dear  to  the  Damascene,  are  sold  by  the  sleepy  dealers,  while  gaudy 
awnings  overhead  protect  them  from  the  sun  and  snow.  Of  all  the 
streets  in  Damascus,  "  the  street  called  straight "  holds  the  most  inter- 
est for  the  traveller.  No  one  but  a  person  "  able  to  see  crooked  "  would 
consider  this  street  as  at  all  "  straight,"  but  by  contraries  it  might  seem 
so.     It  is  entered  by  a  quaint  old  gate  which  is  built  in  the  city  wall. 


362  IN    SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 

The  traveller  is  bewildered  by  the  cries  of  the  people  at  the  bazars,  as 
he  traverses  this  street,  and  meets  with  all  sorts  of  thing's  which  are 
brought  here  for  sale.  One  can  scarcely  keep  the  mind  "  straight,"  to  say 
nothing"  of  keeping  the  run  of  things.  This  street  was  originally  much 
wider  than  now,  though  some  parts  of  it  are  quite  wide  now,  and  covered 


The  Street  Called  Straight. 

to  keep  the  sun  and  snow  off.  It  is  mentioned  in  the  Bible  as  the  place 
Avhere  Paul  sojourned  (Acts  ix.  11).  The  greater  part  of  it  is  very 
narrow,  and  crooked  enough  to  satisfy  the  most  exacting  Bostonian. 
The  portion  seen  here  leads  to  the  "  Broadway  "  of  Damascus,  which  is 
dark,  damp,  and  dismal.  On  each  side  is  a  long  row  of  open  stalls,  only 
a  few  feet  deep.  Therein,  stored  on  rude  shelves,  is  the  gay  merchan- 
dise—the product  of  Eastern  art  and  skill.     Squatted  in  the  midst  of 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS.  363 

their  stores,  at  an  elevation  of  some  three  feet  from  the  street,  are  the 
haug-hty  merchants.  They  never  rise  to  their  patrons.  "What  they 
cannot  reach  by  oscillating  from  side  to  side,  they  bring  down  with  a 
hooked  stick.  If  they  allow  you  to  purchase  anything  you  are  a  fa- 
vored mortal,  and  should  at  once  repair  to  the  mosque  and  give  alms  and 
thanks.  Woven  fabrics  make  up  much  of  the  merchandise  of  Damas- 
cus. A  little  peep  into  one  of  the  quaint  old  weavers'  shops  would 
reveal  men  and  women  twisting  and  twirling,  winding,  reeling,  and 
spinning  the  silk,  the  worsted,  and  the  golden  braid  into  most  gay  and 
gaudy  fabrics.  In  other  bazars  we  may  find  most  curious  vessels, 
candelabra,  plaques,  platters,  and  what  not,  made  of  mysteriously 
wrought  and  inlaid  metal ;  weapons  of  every  form  and  character ;  silks, 
embroideries,  carpets,  rugs,  scarfs,  and  laces  from  Persia,  Cashmere,  and 
India — all  old  and  rare,  and  perhaps  once  the  treasures  of  some  rich 
kalif  or  ameer,  whose  children  are  too  dissolute  to  retain  them  as  heir- 
looms. And  shrewd  you  must  be  if  you  gain  possession  of  any  of  these 
at  a  fair  price.  There  is  one  of  the  merchantmen  of  Damascus,  how- 
ever, by  whom  one  is  always  civilly  treated.  He  is  the  lemonade  mer- 
chant. He  goes  about  from  street  to  street  with  a  great  glass  vessel 
swung  at  an  angle  from  his  shoulders,  in  which  he  carries  iced  lemon- 
ade. As  he  wanders  along  he  clicks  together  in  one  hand  a  pair  of 
china  or  metal  cups — for  the  same  purpose  that  the  scissors-grinder 
rings  his  bell — to  attract  patronage.  He  is  always  amiable.  Should 
you  make  a  purchase  of  his  enticing  beverage,  he  will  pray  to  Allah  to 
bless  you  while  you  drink  and  to  give  you  a  long  hereafter. 

The  house  of  Ananias,  where  Paul  lodged  while  living  in  Damascus, 
is  not  far  away  from  the  bazars  on  the  "  street  called  straight."  It  is 
respected  by  the  Moslems  also.  It  is  a  very  clean-looking  house  for 
Damascus.  A  few  steps  from  the  street  lead  to  a  well-kept  chamber, 
and  the  spot  is  shown  where,  it  is  maintained,  Paul  really  lived  while 
he  sojourned  in  Damascus.  The  Grand  Mosque  of  Damascus  is  the 
most  interesting  relic  of  antiquity  there,  and  has  been  in  turn  a  heathen 
temple,  a  Christian  church,  and  is  now  a  Mohammedan  mosque.  It 
covers  an  area  of  500  feet  long  by  325  feet  wide.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
lofty  arched  wall  of  masonry,  part  of  which  we  see  in  our  engra\dng, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  dome  50  feet  in  diameter  and  120  feet  high.  It 
has  three  lofty  minarets.  The  one  we  see  is  the  minaret  of  Jesus,  who, 
it  is  said,  will  descend  upon  this  minaret,  and,  with  Mohammed  and 


364 


IN  SGBIPTUBE  LANDS. 


St.  John,  judge  the  world  at  the  last  day.  This  old  mosque  has  wit- 
nessed many  a  struggle  among  the  people  of  the  old  world.  Its  gor- 
geous interior  is  very  impressive.     Its  tessellated  pavement  is  almost 

covered  with  rich 
carpets  and  rugs, 
and  it  has  thousands 
of  wax  candles  hang- 
ing from  the  ceiling. 
The  profusion  of 
lights  is  almost 
equal  to  the  electric 
lights  of  our  own 
streets.  On  the  left 
is  a  domed  kiosk  of 
great  beauty,  top- 
ped by  a  cupola  of 
exquisite  symmetry. 
The  structure  is 
carved  and  inlaid, 
and  is  lighted  with 
immense  wax  can- 
dles gaudily  paint- 
ed. Underneath  is 
a  cave  containing  a 
jewelled  casket,  in 
which,  it  is  held,  is 
placed  the  head  of 
John  the  Baptist.  This,  the  Mohammedans  believe,  will  be  joined  to 
his  body  at  the  last  day,  when  Mohammed  with  Jesus  Christ  comes  to 
judge  the  quick  and  the  dead.  From  the  minaret  of  the  mosque  we 
see  the  old  silversmith's  bazar,  and  beyond  that,  imbedded  in  a  wall, 
is  another  "  stone  "  relic  of  the  past.  It  is  a  portion  of  an  old  gate- 
way. It  is  a  beautiful  bit  of  antiquity,  and  of  noble  architecture.  It 
is  in  strange  contrast  with  its  surroundings.  The  strangest  thing 
about  it  is  that,  while  it  serves  to  form  a  portion  of  a  Mohammedan 
place  of  worship,  still  on  each  side  we  may  see  inscribed  in  Greek, 
"  Thy  kingdom,  O,  Christ,  is  an  everlasting  kingdom,  and  Thy  domin- 
ion endureth  throughout  all  generations."    Strange  inscription,  indeed, 


The  Grand  Mosque  and  Minaret  of  Jesus. 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS.  365 

to  have  remained  for  nearly  thirteen  hundred  years  in  one  of  the  holi- 
est shrines  of  Islamism. 

Grand  panoramic  views  of  Damascus  are  to  be  had  from  the  mina- 
rets of  the  mosque.  The  roofs  are  as  a  rule  flat,  and  are  usually  walled, 
the  reason  being  that  during  the  heated  season  at  night  they  are  used 
for  resting-places.  Even  the  most  humble  Damascene  would  deem  it 
a  hardship  if  the  housetop  was  not  so  constructed  as  to  enable  him  to 
lie  upon  it.  There  seems  to  be  a  fascination  about  the  dome  also  to  the 
Damascene,  for  we  see  the  roofs  are  supplied  with  this  construction  in 
great  quantity.  Long  lines  of  pointed  roofs  mark  the  places  where 
run  some  of  the  principal  streets,  which  are  always  covered  to  protect 
the  merchants  of  the  bazars  from  the  hot  weather  in  the  summer  and 
from  the  snows  of  the  winter.  For,  it  must  be  known,  Mt.  Lebanon 
frequently  sends  down  cold  winds  charged  with  snow. 

The  Damascene  home  is  often  squalid  enough,  but  some  of  the 
older  residences  are  palatial.  The  exterior  is  never  attractive,  but  the 
interior  is  usually  divided  into  two  apartments  by  a  beautiful  arch 
richly  gilded.  The  floor  of  the  first  apartment  is  of  marble  of  varie- 
gated colors ;  in  the  centre  is  the  fountain,  inlaid  with  mother-o'-pearl. 
The  walls  are  lined  with  veined  marble,  and  are  relieved  by  rich  Sara- 
cenic arches  and  columns.  The  ceilings  are  frescoed  in  true  Italian 
style.  The  grand  saloon  is  elevated  about  two  feet  above  the  other 
apartments  and  is  finished  in  much  the  same  way.  Rich  divans  covered 
with  purple,  are  on  three  sides ;  the  workmanship  is  mostly  rude,  and 
the  decorations  tawdry,  yet  the  whole  seems  like  a  scene  in  fairyland. 
Especially  is  this  so  when  at  night  the  lamps  are  lighted.  Then  we 
comprehend  why  these  people  dress  in  such  gorgeous  colors :  it  is  to 
harmonize  with  the  colors  of  home.  The  rocking-chair  is  here ;  the 
hum  of  the  sewing-machine  is  also  heard  in  these  homes,  and  they 
are  lighted  now  by  American  kerosene  instead  of  by  the  antique  wax 
candle.  Doubtless  the  potato-masher  and  rolling-pin  will  soon  obtain 
a  place  in  the  Damascene  household.  There  are  many  lovely  gardens 
here,  usually  with  the  river  coursing  through  them.  And  then  there 
are  the  old-time  gates,  so  quaint  and  picturesque  always.  One  of  the 
most  used  is  called  "  The  Gate  of  Peace."  It  was  probably  in  its  day 
the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  gates  of  Damascus.  Now  it  is  broken  and 
ruined.  History  tells  us  that  its  name  has  been  given  it  from  the  fact 
that,  during  the  investment  of  the  city  by  the  Moslems,  no  attack  was 


366 


IN  SCRIPTURE  LANDS. 


/TF./^. 


The  Watchman  at  the  Gate. 


ever  made  upon  it,  nor  did  any  sortie  ever  issue  from  it.  Here  in  the 
night  time,  by  aid  of  the  weird  light  which  is  employed  in  the  streets, 
one  may  well  imagine  the  scene  as  one  told  of  in  the  "  Arabian  Nights' 
Entertainments." 

Always  at  the  city  gates,  and  often  at  the  entrances  to  the  residences 
and  the  better  bazars,  one  will  see  a  wicker  frame  standing.  These  are 
for  the  use  of  the  watchmen  at  night.  During  the  day-time  they  stand 
on  end  in  some  secluded  place,  if  possible,  or  upon  the  edge  of  the 
pavement,  but  at  night  they  are  thrown  down  either  across  the  door- 
way, or  by  the  gate,  and  thereon  the  watchman  sleeps.  When  he  enters 
upon  an  engagement  he  brings  his  wicker  bed  with  him,  and  his  suit 
of  clothes  and  his  abbah,  or  overcoat.  He  never  returns  to  his  home  as 
long  as  good  behavior  continues.  His  meals  are  brought  to  him  ;  he 
sleeps  at  his  post  and  there  remains  constantly  on  duty.  When  he  re- 
tires, head,  feet,  and  all  are  covered  over  by  his  coarse  brown  mantle, 
and  he  curls  himself  up  in  a  tiny  bunch  underneath,  looking  more  like 
a  sack  of  coffee  than  a  human  being. 


ACROSS  LEBANON  TO  DAMASCUS.  367 

Finally  we  come  to  the  "  East  gate."  For  eight  hundred  years  this 
gate  has  been  walled  up.  It  was  built  by  the  Eomans  ;  but  since  their 
domain  the  Saracens  built  upon  it  its  rough  battlements  and  a  square 
tower.  A  rickety  old  minaret  stands  here  alone  and  unused,  except 
when  some  venturesome  tourist  mounts  it  to  obtain  one  of  the  grandest 
views  of  the  old-time  city.  Then  will  he  understand  the  perennial  nat- 
ure of  Damascus,  and  wonder  if  it  is  to  remain  a  city  as  long  as  the 
snow-capped  ranges  of  Lebanon,  seen  in  the  distance,  will  last.  For 
thousands  of  years  it  has  stood  up  sturdily  against  the  various  nations 
who  coveted  its  mastery,  holding  together  the  links  of  history  from  the 
time  of  Abraham  to  the  present. 

And  now  farewell  to  the  scripture  lands.  We  have  travelled  their 
most  picturesque  and  interesting  parts.  We  have  also  moved  among 
their  best  people,  and  obtained  the  truest  studies  of  them  all,  from  the 
quaint  old  Samaritan  to  the  modem  Bedouin,  who  has  not  improved 
any  since  the  time  of  his  forefathers.  His  doctrine  still  is,  "  If  you 
see  anything,  and  you  want  it,  it  is  yours— take  it,  and  praise  God  for 
it."  It  was  a  continual  temptation  to  yield  to  this  doctrine  when  the 
camera  was  pointed  at  the  marvellous  wealth  presented  to  its  wide- 
reaching  eye. 


[By  comparipon  of  this  with  the  repu'ar  map,  mid  refereiuH!  to  tiu;  ili;scrii>ti')na, 
the  student  may  iocate  the  lakes,  rivers,  and  mountains  of  Palestine  more  satis- 
factorily.] 

J'hoto-engraved  by  permission  of  Messrs.  B.  Westcrmann  <fi  Co. 


# 


SCRIPTUEE  LANDS 

AND 

SACRED  PLACES 


^ 


> 


^ 


fop/W<i  \°  rt  Watered/ 


J/ 


E       D 


^ 


>mri 


Pool 

HJbr. 

1: 


/ 


\msf 


OL 


/^ 


S 


Lonjfitude 


Greenwich 


ALPHABETICAL   LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS, 

WITH  SCEIPTUEE   REFERElSrOES. 


Although  prepared  with  care,  there  is  no  intention  to  argue  foi'  the  authenticity  of 
the  sites  named  in  this  list.  Many  interesting  places  considered  sacred,  must  he  omitted 
because  the  eccplorer  has  not  yet  been  able  to  locate  their  sites.  As  to  the  occurrences, 
only  the  chief  ones  are  named.  Thm'e  is  left  for  the  interested  reader  much  searching 
as  well  as  for  the  eocplore?'. 


iiolustration.  page. 

Adullam,  The  Cave  of.  149. 


occhrbence. 
The  resort  of  David. 


AiN-ET-TiN.  The  Foun- 
tain OF  THE  Fig,  a  Sup- 
posed Site  op  Caper- 
naum  


AKABAH-EliATH . 


65. 


Akabah,  The  Gulf  of.  . 


Assemblage,    Plain  op 

THE,    prom    THE    KOCK 

OP  Moses 50. 

Baal,  an  Altar  of 105. 

SETHAirr. 170. 

Bkthant 170. 


Money  found   in   the 
mouth  of  the  fish. 


In  the  land  of  Edom, 
where  the  Israelites 
toere  turned  back. 


Where  Solomon  made 
a  navy  of  ships. 


Where  Israel  assembled 
at  the  base  of  Mount 
Sinai. 


And  there  they  burnt 
incense  in  all  the 
high  places. 

The  town  of  Martha 
and  Mary  and  Laz- 
arus. 

Where  Jesus  lodged. 


DATE.  REFERENCE. 

1062.  David  therefore  departed  thence,  and  escaped 
to  the  cave  Adullam  :  and  when  his  brethren 
and  all  his  father's  house  heard  it,  they  went 
down  thither  to  him.— 1  Samuel  xxii.  1. 

1018.  And  three  of  the  thirty  chief  went  down,  and 
came  to  David  in  the  harvest  time  unto  the 
cave  of  Adullam :  and  the  troop  of  the  Phil- 
istines pitched  in  the  valley  of  Rephaim.— 2 
Samuel  xxiii,  13. 

32.  Notwithstanding,  lest  we  should  offend  them, 

go  thou  to  the  sea,  and  cast  a  hook,  and  take 
up  the  fish  that  first  cometh  up  ;  and  when 
thou  hast  opened  his  mouth,  thou  shalt  find 
a  piece  of  money :  that  take,  and  give  unto 
them  for  me  and  thee. — Matthew  xvii.  27. 

1451.  And  when  we  passed  by  from  our  brethren 
the  children  of  Esau,  which  dwe  t  in  Seir, 
throupfh  the  way  of  the  plain  from  Elath,  and 
from  Ezion-gaber,  we  turned  and  passed  by 
the  way  of  the  wUdemess  of  Moab. — Deuter- 
onomy ii.  8. 

992.  And  king  Solomon  made  a  navy  of  ships  in 
Ezion-peber,  which  is  beside  E!oth,  on  the 
shore  of  the  Red  sea,  in  the  land  of  Edom. 
And  they  came  co  Ophir,  and  fet-ched  from 
thence  gold,  four  hundred  and  twenty  tal- 
ents, and  brought  it  to  king  Solomon. — 1 
Kings  ix.  26-28. 

1491.  And  all  the  people  saw  the  thnnderintrs,  and 
the  lightnings,  and  the  noise  of  the  trumpet, 
and  the  mountain  smoking:  and  when  the 
people  saw  it^  they  removed,  and  stood  afar 
off.— Exodus  XX.  18. 

1491.  And  if  thou  wilt  make  me  an  altar  of  stone, 
thou  Shalt  not  bui'd  it  of  hewn  stone :  for  if 
thou  lift  up  thy  tool  upon  it,  thou  hast  pol- 
luted it.— Exodus  XX,  25. 

33.  Now  a  certain  man  was  sick,  named  Lazarus, 

of  Bethany,  the  town  of  Mary  and  her  sister 
Martha.— John  xi.  1. 

S3.  And  he  left  them,  and  went  out  of  the  city 
into  Bethany;  and  he  lodged  there.— Matthew 
xxi.  17. 


24 


370 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


nXUSTRATION.  PAGE. 

Bkthany,   The   Women 


172. 


Bethel,  from  the  Tow- 
EB 249. 


OCCTRBENCE. 

Like      Martha      and 
Mary. 


Taken  by  the  house  of 
Joseph. 


Bethel,  the  Tower 248.     Where  Jacob  dreamed. 


Bethel,  toward  Jeru- 
salem   


Bethlehem.  . 


Bethlehem— THE  Field 
op  the  Shepherds 141. 


Jacob  dwelt  and  built 
an  altar. 


Where  little  children 
were  destroyed  by 
bears  for  mocking 
Elisha. 


169.     The     birth-place     of 
Jesus. 

Where  David  fed  his 
father^  s  flocks. 


Bethsaida. 


Th£  shepherds  met  the 
angels. 

337.     Th£  blind  man  cured. 


Christ   fed    the    five 
thousand. 


Bethsaida,  West 837. 

C.£8ABEA  Pbilippi 352.     Visited  by  Christ. 

Cana. 

Cana,  fbom  the  West.  .  298. 


The  miraculous  taking 
offish. 


298.    The  wedding  feast. 


Canaan,   The  Borders 
OF 122. 


Cafebnaux. 


T?ie  first   miracle  of 
Christ. 


Crossed  by  Caleb  and 
his  fellow  spies. 


The  dwelling  place  of 
Christ. 


The  servant  of  the  cen- 
turion healed. 


Christ  healed  the  ruh 
er^s  sick  son. 


DATE.  REFERENCE. 

32.  But  Martha  was  cumbered  about  much  serv- 
ing, and  came  to  him,  and  said,  Lord,  dOst 
thou  not  care  that  my  sister  hath  left  me  to 
serve  alone  ?  bid  her  therefore  that  she  help 
me.— Luke  x.  40. 

1425.  And  the  house  of  Joseph,  they  also  went  up 
against  Beth-el:  and  the  Lord  was  with 
them. — Judges  i.  22. 

1760.  And  Jacob  went  out  from  Beer-sheba,  and 
went  toward  Haran. 
And  he  lighted  upon  a  certain  place,  and  tar- 
ried there  all  night,  because  the  sun  was  set ; 
and  he  took  of  the  stones  of  that  place,  and 
put  them  for  his  pillows,  and  lay  down  in 
that  place  to  sleep.— Genesis  xxviii.  10-11. 

1732.  And  God  said  unto  Jacob,  Arise,  go  up  to 
Beth-el,  and  dwell  there  :  and  make  there  an 
altar  unto  God,  that  appeared  unto  thee  when 
thou  tleddest  from  the  face  of  Esau  thy 
brother.— Genesis  xxxv.  1. 

896.  And  he  went  up  from  thence  unto  Beth-el: 
and  as  he  was  going  up  by  the  way,  there 
came  forth  little  children  out  of  the  city,  and 
mocked  him,  and  said  unto  him.  Go  up, 
thou  bald  head ;  go  up,  thou  bald  head. 
And  he  turned  back,  and  looked  on  them,  and 
cursed  them  in  the  name  of  the  Lord.  And 
there  came  forth  two  she  bears  out  of  the 
wood,  and  tare  forty  and  two  children  of 
them.— 2  Kings  ii.  23-24. 

4.  Jesus  was  born  in  Bethlehem.— Matthew  ii.  1. 


1063.  But  David  went  and  returned  from  Saul  to 
feed  his  father's  sheep  at  Beth-lehem.— 1 
Samuel  xvii.  15. 

5.  And  there  were  in  the  same  country  shepherds 
abiding  in  the  field,  keeping  watch  over  their 
flock  by  night.— Luke  ii.  8-15. 

32,  And  he  cometh  to  Bethsaida ;  and  they  bring 
a  blind  man  unto  him,  and  besought  him  to 
touch  him.— Mark  viii.  22. 

32.  And  he  took  them,  and  went  aside  privately 
into  a  desert  place  belonging  to  the  city 
called  Bethsaida. — Luke  ix.  10. 

31.  Now  when  he  had  left  speaking,  he  said  unto 

Simon,  Launch  out  into  the  deep,  and  let 
down  your  nets  for  a  draught.— Luke  v.  4. 

32.  When  Jesus  came  into  the  coasts  of  Cesarea 

Philippi,  he  asked  his  disciples,  saying, 
Whom  do  men  say  that  I,  the  Son  of  man, 
am  ?— Matthew  xvi.  13. 

30.  And  the  third  day  there  was  a  marriage  in  Cana 
of  Galilee;  and  the  mother  of  Jesus  was 
there.— John  ii.  1. 

30.  This  beginning  of  miracles  did  Jesus  in  Cana 

of  Galilee,  and  manifested  forth  his  glory; 
and  his  disciples  believed  on  him.— John  ii. 
11. 

1490.  And  Moses  sent  them  to  spy  out  the  land  of 
Canaan,  and  said  unto  them,  Get  you  up  this 
way  southward,  and  go  up  into  the  moun- 
tain.—Numbers  xiii.  17. 

31.  And  leaving  Nazareth,  he  came  and  dwelt  in 

Capernaum,  which  is  upon  the  sea  coast,  in 
the  borders  of  Zabulon  and  Nephthalim.— 
Matthew  iv.  13. 

31.  And  Jesus  said  unto  the  centurion.  Go  thy 
way ;  and  as  thou  hast  believed,  so  be  it  done 
unto  thee.  And  his  servant  was  healed  in 
the  selfsame  hour.— Matthew  viii.  13. 

80.  Jesus  saith  unto  him.  Go  thy  way ;  thy  son 
liveth.  And  the  man  believed  the  word  that 
Jesus  had  spoken  unto  him,  and  he  went  his 
way. — John  iv.  50. 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


371 


nXUSTRATION.  PAGE. 

Capernaum 336. 


Caperkaxjm,  The  Ruined 
Synagogue  at 334. 


Carpenter's     Shop,    A 
Nazarene 311. 


Church   op    the    Holt 
Sepulchre 205. 


Damascus,  the  Mosque.  364. 


Damascus,   the   Street 
Called  Straight 362. 


Dan,  The  Fountain  op.  .  351. 


occurrence. 

Jesus  walked  on  the  sea 
and  calmed  the 
storm. 


Jesus  preached  on  the 
sabbath. 


A  memory  of  the  past. 


ATE.  BEPERENCE. 

32.  So  when  they  had  rowed  about  five  and  twenty 
or  thirty  turlongs,  they  Bee  Jesus  walking 
on  the  sea,  and  drawine  nigh  unto  the  ship  : 
and  they  were  afraid.— John  vi.  19. 

30.  And  they  went  into  Capernaum  ;  and  straight- 

way on  the  sabbath  day  he  entered  into  the 
synagogue,  and  taught.— Mark  1.  21. 

31.  Is  not  this  the  carpenter,  the  son  of  Mary,  the 

brother  of  James,  and  Joses,  and  of  Juda, 
and  Simon  ?  and  are  not  his  sisters  here 
with  us  ?  And  they  were  offended  at  him. 
—Mark  vi.  3. 


Reputed   burial-place       33. 
of  Christ. 


In  the  oldest  city.  1913. 

[Damascus  mentioned 
by  Abram,.'\ 

PauVs  residence.  35. 


Abraham      recovered    1913. 
Lot. 


Ebal,  Mount 258.    27te  pla^  of  cursing.      1451. 


Elih,  the  Wells  of 


Elisha,  The   Fountain 
OP 1T8. 


En-gedi,    The  Wilder- 
ness OP  151. 


ESDRAELON,    ThE    PlAIN 
OP 


Where      Israel      en-    1491. 
cam,ped. 


The  waters  healed  ivith      896. 
salt. 


The     hiding-place    of   1061. 
David. 


Barak  defeated  Sisera.    129C. 


So  they  went,  and  made  the  sepulchre  sure, 
sealing  the  stone,  and  setting  a  watch. — ^Mat- 
thew xxvii.  66. 

And  Abram  said,  Lord  God,  what  wilt  thou 
give  me,  seeing  I  go  childless,  and  the  stew- 
ard of  my  house  is  this  Eliezer  of  Damascus  ? 
—Genesis  xv.  2. 

And  the  Lord  said  unto  him.  Arise,  and  go 
into  the  street  which  is  called  Straight,  and 
inquire  in  the  house  of  Judas  for  o?ie  called 
Saul,  of  Tarsus :  for,  behold,  he  prayeth. — 
Acts  ix.  11. 

And  when  Abram  heard  that  his  brother  was 
taken  captive,  he  armed  his  trained  servants. 
bom  in  his  own  house,  three  hundred  and 
eighteen,  and  pursued  them  unto  Dan. — Gen- 
esis xiv.  14. 

Half  of  them  over  against  mount  Gerizim,  and 
half  of  them  over  against  mount  Ebal ;  as 
Moses  the  servant  of  the  Lord  had  com- 
manded before,  that  they  should  bless  the 
people  of  Israel. 

And  afterward  he  read  all  the  words  of  the 
law,  the  blessings  and  cursings,  according 
to  all  that  is  written  in  the  book  of  the  law. 
— Joshua  viii.  33-34. 

And  they  came  to  Elim,  where  were  twelve 
wells  of  water,  and  threescore  and  ten  palm 
trees :  and  they  encamped  there  by  the  wat- 
ers.— Exodus  XV,  27. 

And  he  went  forth  unto  the  spring  of  the 
waters,  and  cast  the  salt  in  there,  and  said. 
Thus  eaith  the  Lord,  I  have  healed  these 
waters ;  there  shall  not  be  from  thence  any 
more  death  or  barren  laiid. — 2  Kings  ii.  21. 

And  it  came  to  pass,  when  Saul  was  returned 
from  following  the  Philistines,  that  it  was 
told  him,  saying,  Behold  David  is  in  the  wil- 
derness of  En-gedi. — 1  Samuel  xxiv.  1. 

Judges  iv.  &  V. 


Gideon's  triumph, 
Saul  met  the  Philis- 


1249.  Judges  vli. 
1056.  1  Samuel  xxxi. 


Feiran,  Wadt. 


Israel  battled  with  the     895.  2  Kings. 

Syrians. 
Jehu  pursued  Ahazi-     884.  2  Kings  ix. 

ah. 

Pharaoh  -  nechoh    de-     6J.0.  2  Kings  xxiii 

feated  Josiah. 
Where  Joshua  fought    1491. 

Amalek. 


And  it  came  to  pass,  when  Moses  held  up  his 
hand,  that  Israel  prevailed:  and  when  he  let 
down  his  hand,  Amalek  prevailed. 

But  Moses'  hands  were  heavj' ;  and  they  took  a 
stone,  and  put  it  under  him,  and  he  sat 
thereon ;  and  Aaron  and  Hur  stayed  up  his 
hands,  the  one  on  the  one  side,  and  the  other 
on  the  other  side ;  and  his  hands  were  steady 
until  the  goin^  down  of  the  sun. 

And  Joshua  discomfited  Amalek  and  his 
people  with  the  edge  of  the  sword. — Exodus 
xvii.  11-13. 


372 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  ILLU8TMATI0N8. 


illustration.          page. 
Galilee,  The  Sea  of 324. 


Galilee,   The   Sea   or, 
near  Chorazin 


OCCURREKCE. 

Christ  walked  thereon. 


LTE.  RErERENCE. 

32.  And  in  the  fourth  watch  of  the  night  Jesus 
went  unto  them,  walking  on  the  sea. — Mat- 
thew xiv.  25. 


Woe  unto  thee,  Chora- 
zin. 


Gerizih,  Mount 257.    The  place  of  blessing. 


Gethsemane,  The  Gar- 
den OF 


GmoN,  The  Pool  OP 161. 


The  agony  of  Jesus. 


Gilboa,  Mount. 


32.  Woe  unto  thee,  Chorazin !  woe  unto  thee,  Beth- 
saida!  for  if  the  mighty  works  had  been 
done  in  Tyre  and  Sidon,  which  have  been 
done  in  you,  they  had  a  great  while  ago  re- 
pented, sitting  in  sackclotn  and  ashes.— Luke 
X.  13. 

1451.  And  it  shall  come  to  pass,  when  the  Lord  thy 
God  hath  brought  thee  in  unto  the  land 
whither  thou  goest  to  possess  it,  that  thou 
shalt  put  the  blessing  upon  mount  Gerizim, 
and  the  curse  upon  mount  Ebal.— Deuteron- 
omy xi.  29. 

33.  Then  cometh  Jesus  with  them  unto  a  place 
called  Gethsemane,  and  saith  unto  the  disci- 

ples. Sit  ye  here,  while  I  go  and  pray  yonder. 
— Matthew  xxvi.  36. 

Solomon    anointed    1015.  The  king  also  said  unto  them,  Take  with  you 
king.  the  servants  of  your  lord,  and  cause  Solomon 

my  son  to  ride  upon  mine  own  mule,  and 
bring  him  down  to  Gihon  : 
And  let  Zadok  the  priest  and  Nathan  the 
prophet  anoint  him  there  king  over  Israel : 
and  blow  ye  with  the  trumpet,  and  say,  God 
save  king  Solomon,— 1  Kings  i.  33-34. 

Where  the  Philistines    1056.  Now  the  Philistines  fought  against  Israel :  and 
battled  with  Israel.  the  men  of  Israel  fled  from  before  the  Phil- 

istines, and  fell  down  slain  in  mount  Gilboa. 
— 1  Samuel  xxxi.  1. 


Golden  Calf,  The  Hill 
OF  THE 55. 


GrOLGOTHA,  THE  PLACE  OF 

THE  Skull 236. 


The  golden  calf  erect- 
ed. 


The  crucifixion. 


Goshen,  The  Land  OF 2.    The  place  of  the  bond- 


Grotto    of    Jeremiah, 
The 


HATTiN,  The  Horns  op.  .  341. 


The   lamentations  of 
Jeremiah. 


The  m^unt  of  beati- 
tvdes. 


Hazeroth 56.     Where  Israel  abode. 


Hebron 166.    Abraham  dwelt  there. 

Sarah  died,  and  was 

buried  there. 
Visited  by  the  spies. 
Taken  by  Joshua. 
Given  to  Caleb. 
David  the  king  dwelt 

there. 


Hermon,  Mount 865. 


The  site  of  the  trans- 
figuration. 


Hbzkkiah,ThkPoolof.  216.    Built  by  Heiekiah. 


1491.  And  he  took  the  calf  which  they  had  made,  and 
burnt  it  in  the  fire,  and  ground  it  to  pow- 
der, and  strewed  it  upon  the  water,  and 
made  the  children  of  Israel  drink  of  it. — 
Exodus  xxxii.  20. 

33.  And  when  they  were  come  to  the  place,  whicb. 
is  called  Calvary,  there  they  crucified  hdm, 
and  the  malefactors,  one  on  the  right  hand, 
and  the  other  on  the  left.— Luke  xxiii.  33. 

1706.  Then  Joseph  came  and  told  Pharaoh,  and  said. 
My  father  and  my  brethren,  and  their  flocks, 
and  their  herds,  and  all  that  they  have,  are 
come  out  of  the  land  of  Canaan ;  and,  be- 
hold, they  are  in  the  land  of  Goshen.— Gene- 
sis xlvii.  1. 

588.  Is  it  nothing  to  you,  all  ye  that  pass  by?  be- 
hold, and  see  if  there  be  any  sorrow  like  unto 
my  sorrow,  which  is  done  unto  me,  where- 
with the  Lord  hath  afflicted  me  in  the  day  of 
his  fierce  anger. — Lamentations  i.  12. 

31.  And  seeing  the  multitudes,  he  went  up  into  a 
mountain :  and  when  he  was  set,  his  disci- 
ples came  unto  him.— Matthew  v.  1. 

1490.  And  the  people  journeyed  from  Kibroth-hat- 
taavah  unto  Hazeroth ;  and  abode  at  Haze- 
roth.—Numbers  xi.  35. 

1917.   Genesis  xiii. 
1860.   Genesis  xxili. 

1490.  Numbers  xiil. 
1451.  Joshua  X. 
1444.  Joshua  xiv. 
1056.  2  Samuel  li. 


32.  And  after  six  days  Jesus  taketh  Peter,  James, 
and  John  his  brother,  and  bringeth  them  up 
into  a  high  mountain  apart,  and  was  trans- 
figured before  them.— Matthew  xvii.  1-2. 
718.  This  same  Hczekiah  also  stoi)ped  the  upper 
watercourse  of  Gilion,  and  brought  it  straight 
down  to  the  west  side  of  tlie  city  of  David. 
And  llezekiah  prospered  in  all  his  works.. 
—2  Chroulcles  xxxil.  80. 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIOJS'S. 


373 


ILLtTSTRATION. 

Hob,  Mount 


PAGE.  OCCURBENCE. 

.    72.     Where  Aaron  died. 


Hob,  Mount,  and  Wadt 


72. 


HUBHEBAH,  WaDY  EL . . ..     57. 


Jacob's  Weix. 


Jebicho. 


.  180. 


Jerusalem,  rsoM  Mount 
Calvaby 239. 


Jerusalem,  pbom  the 
City  Wall  to  Geth- 
SEMANE 199. 

Jerusalem,  feom  the 
Southeast 189. 


Jebusaleh,  Mount  Mo- 
BLIH 197. 


Jerusalem,  The  Damas- 
cus Gate 


Jerusalem,  The  Gtoloen 
Gate 194. 


Jerusalem,  The    Jews' 
(Quarter 213. 

Jerusalem,  The  King's 
Dale 191. 


Jerusalem,  The  Lepers' 
Quarter  and  Hospi- 
tal   212. 


Across  from  the  land 
of  Esau. 


Where  Miriam  taunt- 
ed Moses. 


On  ground  purchased 
by  Jacob  at  Shechem. 

Scene  of  Chris  fs  inter- 
view tcith  the  Sa- 
maritan  woman. 


date.  beference. 

1453.  And  Moses  stripped  Aaron  of  his  garments, 

and  put  them  upon  Eieazar  his  son;  and 

•  Aaron  died  there  in  the  top  of  the  mount : 

and  Moses  and  Eieazar  came  down  from  the 

mount.— Numbers  xx.  28. 

1451.  Then  we  tnmed,  and  took  our  journey  into 
the  wilderness  by  the  way  of  the  Red  sea,  as 
the  Lord  spake  unto  me  :  and  we  compassed 
mount  Seir  many  days. 
And  the  Lord  spake  unto  me,  saying. 
Ye  have  compassed  this  mountain  long  enough: 
turn  you  northward.— Deuteronomy  ii.  1,  2, 
3. 

1490.  And  Miriam  and  Aaron  spake  against  Moses 
because  of  the  Ettiiopian  woman  whom  he 
had  married :  for  he  had  married  an  Ethio- 
pian woman. — Numbers  xii.  1. 

1739.  Genesis  xxxiii.  19. 


Then  cometh  he  to  a  city  of  Samaria,  which  is 
called  Sychar,  near  to  the  parcel  of  ground 
that  Jacob  gave  to  his  son  Joseph. 

Now  Jacob's  well  was  there.  Jesus  therefore, 
being  wearied  with  his  journey,  sat  thus  on 
the  well :  and  it  was  about  the  sixth  hour. 

There  cometh  a  woman  of  Samaria  to  draw 
water:  Jesus  saith  unto  her.  Give  me  to 
drink. — John  iv.  5-7. 


Visited  by  the  spies.  1451.  Joshua  ii. 
Taken  and  destroyed.  1451.  Joshua  vi. 
The  blind  man  healed.       33.  Luke  xvili. 


Jesv^  visited  Zaccheus. 
Prophecy  verified. 


The  walk  after  the  last 
supper. 

Jesus    larnented    over 
the  city. 


Site  of  Solomon'' s  Tem- 
ple. 


Xear  the  place  called 
Calvary. 


The  lame  man  healed 
by  Feter. 


Jesus   wept    over   the 
city. 

Battle    of    tJie    four 
kings  against  five. 


33.  Luke  xix. 

588.  The  Lord  hath  accomplished  his  fury;  he 
hath  poured  out  his  fierce  anger,  and  hath 
kindled  a  fire  in  Zion,  and  it  hath  devoured 
the  foundations  thereof. — Lamentations  iv. 
11. 

33.  And  when  they  had  sung  a  hymn,  th^  went 
out  into  the  mount  of  Olives.— Matthew 
xxvi.  30. 

33.  O  Jerusalem,  Jerusalem,  thou  that  killest  the 
prophets,  and  stonest  them  which  are  sent 
unto  thee,  how  often  would  I  have  gathered 
thy  children  together,  even  as  a  hen  gathereth 
her  chickens  under  her  wings,  and  ye  would 
not !— Matthew  xxiii.  37. 

1015.  Then  Solomon  began  to  build  the  house  of  the 
Lord  at  Jerusalem  in  mount  Moriah,  where 
the  Lord  appeared  unto  David  his  father,  in 
the  place  that  David  had  prepared  in  the 
threshing-floor  of  Oman  the  Jebusite.— 2 
Chronicles  iii.  1. 

33.  Life  up  your  heads,  O  ye  gates ;  and  be  ye 
lifted  up,  ye  everlasting  doors ;  and  the 
King  of  glory  shall  come  in.— Psalms  xxiv. 
7. 

33.  And  a  certain  man  lame  from  his  mother's 
womb  was  carried,  whom  they  laid  daily  at 
the  gate  of  the  temple  wUch  is  called  Beau- 
tiful, to  ask  alms  of  them  that  entered  into 
the  temple.— Acts  iii.  2. 

33.  And  when  he  was  come  near,  he  beheld  the 
city,  and  wept  over  it.— Luke  xix.  41. 


1913. 


Outside  tTie  city  walls.       894- 


And  the  king  of  Sodom  went  out  to  meet  him, 
after  his  return  from  the  slaughter  of  Che- 
dorlaomer  and  of  the  kings  that  were  with 
him,  at  the  valley  of  Shaveh,  which  is  the 
king's  dale.— Grenesis  xiv.  17. 

Now  Naaman,  captain  of  the  host  of  the  king 
of  Syria,  was  a  great  man  with  his  master, 
and  honourable,  because  by  him  the  Lord 
had  given  deliverance  unto  Syria:  he  was 
also  a  mighty  man  in  valour,  but  he  wa^  a 
leper.— 2  Kings  v.  1. 


374 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


nxrSTRATION.  PAGE. 

Jercsalem,  The  Mount 
OF  Olives 210. 


Jerusalem,  The  North 
end  of  the  temple 
Area— THE  Fortress.  201. 

Jerusalem,  The  Tower 
OF  David  and  of  Jesus.  219. 

Jerusalem  The  Wail- 
ing Place  of  the  Jews.  21T. 


Jerusalem,    Tombs    of 
the  Kings 


Jerusalem,  Zion's  Gate.  198. 
Jezreel,  The  Castle  in.  2S5. 


Jezreel,  The  Fountain 
OF 


Jezreel,  The  Fountain 

Toward  the  Jordan.  .  289. 
Jordan,  The  River 177. 


Jordan,  The  River,  To- 
ward MoAB 174. 


occurrence. 


Joseph's  Sefcixihbe 256. 


Eadesh-Babnea,  An  Oa- 
sis in  123. 


Lebanon  to  Anti-Leban- 
on   847. 


Leontes,  The  Natural 
Bridge  Over  the 349. 


Machfelah,   The   Cave 
of 167. 


The  abode  of  Jestis, 


Jestis  wff^  bound. 


David  dicelt  there. 
The   English    church 
tower. 

Part    of    the    temple 
wall. 


Prophecy  verified. 


Taken  by  David. 

Where  Jorarri's  watch- 
man stood  and  spied 
Jehu. 


Gideon's  hand  lapped 
the  water. 


Whither  the   Midian- 

itesjled. 
Jesus      baptized      by 

John. 

The  priests  and  peo- 
ple passed  over. 


Elijah  divided  the  wa- 
ters. 


Where  Joseph  was  bur- 
ied. 


Where  Israel  wandered 
in  the  land  of  Zin. 


"  That  goodly  moun- 
tain "  which  Moses 
prayed  to  see. 

The  river  Jesus  crossed 
on  the  way  from 
Tyre  and  aidon  to 
Decapolis. 

"  Made  sure  unto 
Abraftam." 


date.  reference. 

33.  And  in  the  daytime  he  was  teaching  in  the 
temple ;  and  at  night  he  went  out,  and  abode 
in  the  mount  that  is  called  the  mount  of 
Olives.— Luke  xxi.  37. 

33.  And  when  they  had  bound  him,  they  led  him 
away,  and  delivered  him  to  Pontius  Pilate  the 
governor. — Matthew  xxvii.  2. 

1048.  So  David  dwelt  in  the  fort,  and  called  it  the 
city  of  David.  And  David  built  round  about 
from  Millo  and  inward.— 2  Samuel  v,  9. 

1014.  Behold,  your  house  is  left  unto  you  desolate  : 
and  verily  1  say  unto  you.  Ye  shall  not  see 
me,  until  thn  time  come  when  ye  shall  say. 
Blessed  is  he  that  cometh  in  the  name  of  the 
Lord* — Luke  xiii.  35. 
534.  And  many  of  them  that  sleep  in  the  dust  of 
the  earth  shall  awake,  some  to  everlasting 
life,  and  some  to  shame  and  everlasting  con- 
tempt.—Daniel  xii.  2. 

1048.  Nevertheless  David  took  the   stronghold  of 

Zion. — 2  Samuel  v.  7. 
884.  And  there  stood  a  watchman  on  the  tower  in 
Jezreel,  and  he  spied  the  company  of  Jehu 
as  he  came,  and  said,  I  see  a  company.  And 
Joram  said.  Take  an  horseman,  and  send  to 
meet  them,  and  let  him  say,  Is  it  peace  ? — 2 
Kings  ix.  17. 

1249.  So  he  brought  down  the  people  unto  the  water : 
and  the  Lord  said  unto  Gideon,  Every  one 
that  lappeth  of  the  water  with  his  tongue,  as 
a  dog  lappeth,  him  shalt  thou  set  by  himself ; 
likewise  every  one  that  boweth  down  upon 
his  knees  to  drink. — Judges  vii.  5. 

1249.  Judges  vii.  22. 

27.  Then  cometh  Jesus  from  Galilee  to  Jordan 
unto  John  to  be  baptized  of  him.— Matthew 
iii.  13. 

1451.  And  the  priests  that  bare  the  ark  of  the  cove- 
nant of  the  Lord  stood  firm  on  dry  ground 
in  the  midst  of  Jordan,  and  all  the  IsraeUtes 
passed  over  on  dry  groimd.— Joshua  iii.  17. 
896.  And  fifty  men  of  the  sons  of  the  prophets 
went,  and  stood  to  view  afar  off :  and  they 
two  stood  by  Jordan. 
And  Elijah  took  his  mantle,  and  wi'apped  it 
together,  and  smote  the  waters,  and  they 
were  divided  hither  and  thither,  so  that  they 
two  went  over  on  dry  ground. — 2  Kings  ii. 

1426.  And  the  bones  of  Joseph  which  the  children 
of  Israel  brought  up  out  of  Egypt,  buried 
theyin  Shechem,  in  a  parcel  of  ground  which 
Jacob  bought  of  the  sons  of  Hamor  the 
father  of  Shechem  for  a  hundred  pieces  of 
silver.  And  it  became  the  inheritance  of 
the  children  of  Joseph.— Joshua  xxiv.  32. 

1471.  Then  came  the  children  of  Israel,  even  the 
whole  congregation,  into  the  desert  of  Zin 
in  the  first  month :  and  the  people  abode  in 
Kadesh ;  and  Miriam  died  there,  and  was 
buried  there. — Numbers  xx.  1. 

1451.  I  pray  thee,  let  me  go  over,  and  see  the  good 
land  that  is  beyond  Jordan,  that  goodly 
mountain,  and.  Lebanon.- Deuteronomy  iii. 

32.  And  again,  departing  from  the  coasts  of  Tyre 
and  Sidon,  he  came  unto  the  sea  of  Galilee, 
through  the  midst  of  the  coasts  of  Decapolis. 
—Mark  vii.  31. 
1860.  And  after  this,  Abraham  burled  Sarah  his 
wife  in  the  cave  of  the  field  of  Machpelah  be- 
fore Mamre  :  the  same  is  Hebron  in  the  land 
of  Canaan. 
And  the  field,  and  the  cave  that  ?.<  therein,  were 
made  sure  unto  Abraham  ft)r  a  possession  of 
a  burying-place  by  the  sons  of  lleth.— Gene- 
sis xxiii.  19-20. 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


375 


HXUSTRATIOir.  PAGE. 

Magdala 331. 

Miriam's  Welz,  at  Haz- 
EROTH 57. 

MizPEH  (Scopus) 247. 

Moses,  The  Wells  op.  . .    25. 


MuMMT  Head  op  Rame- 

SEsn 21. 

Nain  292. 

Nawami,  or  RocK-HorsE, 
A 70. 

Nazareth 304. 

Nazareth  from  the 
Campanile 309. 

Petra 86. 


Petra,  a  Street  View- 
in 


Plain  op  the  Assem- 
blage PROM  Mount  Si- 
nai..     41. 


Rachel's  Sepxtlchre  . 


136. 


Ras-Supsapeh  from  Aar- 
on's Hill 51. 


Ras-Supsafeh  prom  the 
Plain  of  Assemblage.. 


Seir.  In  the  Mountains 
op  72. 


Sbib,  The  Mountains  of.    76. 


OCCURRENCE. 

The    home    of   Mary 
Magdalene. 

Where    Miriam    and 
Aaron  spoke  against 


Israel  gathered  there. 


Moses  sang  the  song  of 
deliverance. 


This  is  Pharaoh  "  the 

oppressor." 
Jestis     raised     from, 

death    the    widoic's 

son. 

As  of  old— The  Ken- 
ites  dwelt  in  rock- 
houses  {Num.  xxiv. 
21). 

Where  Jesus  dwelt. 


date.  REFERENCE. 

32.  And  he  sent  away  the  multitude,  and  took 
ship,  and  came  into  the  coasts  of  Magdala. 
— Metthew  xv.  39. 

1490.  And  the  cloud  departed  from  off  the  taber- 

nacle ;  and,  behold,  Miriam  became  leprous, 
white  as  snow  :  and  Aaron  looked  upon  Mir- 
iam, and,  behold,  site  was  leprous.— Num- 
bers xii.  10. 
1120.  And  Samuel  said.  Gather  all  Israel  to  Mizpeh, 
and  I  will  pray  for  you  unto  the  Lord.— 1 
Samuel  vii.  5. 

1491.  Then  sang  Moses  and  the  children  of  Israel 

this  song  unto  the  Lord,  and  spake,  saying, 
I  will  sing  unto  the  Lord,  for  he  hath  tri- 
umphed gloriously :  the  horee  and  his  rider 
hath  he  thro^vn  into  the  sea. — Exodus  xv.  1. 
1635.  Exodus  i. 


Where  Christ  lived  and 
preached,  and  where 
his  assassination  ivas 
attempted. 

The  strong  city  of 
Edom. 


Made    "  desolate "    ty 
David. 


There  Israel  encamped 
before  the  nrwunt. 


Where  Rachel  died  and 
was  buried. 


Where  the  prophet  sa- 
luted Saul. 


The  tables  of  the  law 
broken. 


The  traditional  Mount 
Sinai. 


The  land  forbidden  to 
Moses. 


The     land 
Esau. 


31.  And  it  came  to  pass  the  day  after,  that  he  went 
into  a  city  called  Nain ;  and  many  of  his 
disciples  went  with  him,  and  much  people. 
— Luke  vii.  11. 
1452.  They  are  wet  with  the  showers  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  embrace  the  rock  for  want  of  a 
shelter. — Job  xxiv.  8. 

3.  And  he  came  and  dwelt  in  a  city  called  Naza- 
reth :  that  it  might  be  fulfilled  which  was 
spoken  by  the  prophets.  He  shall  be  called 
a  Nazarene. — ^Matthew  ii.  23. 
31.  And  rose  up,  and  thrust  him  out  of  the  city, 
and  led  him  unto  the  brow  of  the  hill  where- 
on their  city  was  built,  that  they  might  cast 
him  down  headlong. — Luke  iv.  29. 
1739.  And  I  gave  imto  Isaac  Jacob  and  Esau :  and  I 

fave  unto  Esau  mount  Seir,  to  possess  it ; 
ut  Jacob  and  his  children  went  do^vn  into 
EgJTt.— 'Joshua  xxiv.  4. 
:  Also  Edom  shall  be  a  desolation :  every  one 
that  goeth  by  it  shall  be  astonished,  and 
shall  hiss  at  all  the  plagues  thereof. — .Jere- 
miah xlix.  17. 

1040.  And  he  put  garrisons  in  Edom ;  throushout 
all  Edom  put  he  garrisons,  and  all  they  of 
Edom  became  David's  servants.  And  the 
Lord  preserved  David  whithersoever  he  went. 
— 2  Samuel  viii.  14. 

1491.  And  Moses  brought  forth  the  people  out  of 
the  camp  to  meet  with  God  ;  and  thev  stood 
at  the  nether  part  of  the  mount.— fixodus 
xix.  17. 

1729.  And  Rachel  died,  and  was  buried  in  the  way 
to  Ephrath,  which  is  Beth-lehem. 
And  Jacob  set  a  pillar  upon  her  grave :  that  is 
the  pillar  of  Rachel's  grave  unto  this  day. 
— Genesis  xxxv.  19-20. 

1095.  Then  Samuel  took  a  vial  of  oil,  and  poured  it 
upon  his  head,  and  kissed  him,  and  said.  Is 
it  not  because  the  Lord  hath  anointed  thee 
to  he  captain  over  his  inheritance  ? — 1  Samuel 
X.  1. 

1491.  And  when  Joshua  heard  the  noise  of  the  peo- 
ple as  they  shouted,  he  said  irato  Moses, 

♦  There  is  a  noise  of  war  in  the  camp. — Exo- 

dus xxxii.  17. 

1491.  And  the  Lord  said  to  Aaron,  Go  into  the  wil- 
derness to  meet  Moses.  And  he  went,  and 
met  him  in  the  mount  of  Grod,  and  kissed 
him.— Exodus  iv.  27. 
And  he  said.  My  presence  shall  go  with  thee, 
and  I  will  give  thee  rest.— Exodus  xxxiii.  14. 

1451.  Meddle  not  with  them ;  for  I  will  not  give  you 
of  their  land,  no,  not  so  much  as  a  foot- 
breadth;  because  I  have  given  mount  Seir 
unto  Esau  for  a  possession.- Deuteronomy 
U.  5. 
given  to  1729.  Thus  dwelt  Esau  in  mount  Seir.  Esau  is 
Edom. — Genesis  xxxvi.  8. 


376 


ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


HXUETBATION. 

SBBBAii,  Mount.... 


OCCUBRBNCB. 


35.    In  Rephidim. 


261.     The  h&me  of  Jacob. 


Israel  assembled  there 
under  Joshua. 


Shiloh. 


251. 


Sinai,  Mount. 


Sower,  Parable  op  the.  272. 
Tabob,  Mount 301. 


Tell  HCm,  The   Syna- 
gogue...   334. 


Tiberias,    North    and 
South 330. 

Tyre   and  Sidon,  The 
Coasts  op 846. 

WadyEI'Ain 59. 

Weibeh, 'AiN  El 121. 


The  tabernacle  set  up. 
The  land  divided. 


The  annual  feast. 
Hannah  before  Eli. 
The  sin  of  EWs  sons. 
Samuel  in  EWs  house. 
The  ark  forsaken. 
Jehovah  met  Moses. 


The  four  kinds  of 
"  ground''''  illustrat- 
ed. 


The    encampment   of   1296. 
Deborah. 


date.  beperencb. 

1491.  And  all  the  congregation  of  the  children  of 
Israel  journeyed  from  the  wilderness  of  Sin, 
after  their  journeys,  according  to  the  com- 
mandment of  the  Lord,  and  pitched  in  Reph- 
idim.—Exodus  xvii.  1. 

1739.  And  Jacob  came  to  Shalem,  a  city  of  Shechem, 
which  is  in  the  land  of  Canaan,  when  he  came 
from  Padan-aram  ;  and  pitched  his  tent  be- 
fore the  city. 
And  he  bought  a  parcel  of  a  field,  where  he  had 
spread  his  tent,  at  the  hand  of  the  children 
of  Hamor,  Shechem's  father,  for  a  hundred 
pieces  of  money.— Genesis  xxxiii.  18-19. 

1451.  Joshua  viii. 


1444.  And  the  whole  congregation  of  the  children  of 
Israel  assembled  together  at  Shiloh,  and  set 
up  the  tabernacle  of  the  congregation  there  : 
and  the  land  was  subdued  before  them. 
— Joshua  xviii.  1. 

1406.  Judges  xxi. 

1171.  1  Samuel  i. 

1165.   1  Samuel  ii. 

1165.  1  Samuel  ill. 

1141.  1  Samuel  iv. 

1491.  And  Moses  brought  forth  the  people  out  of  the 
camp  to  meet  with  God ;  and  they  stood  at 
the  nether  part  of  the  mount. 
And  mount  Sinai  was  altogether  on  a  smoke, 
because  the  Lord  descended  upon  it  in  fire : 
and  the  smoke  thereof  ascended  as  the  smoke 
of  a  furnace,  and  the  whole  mount  quaked 
greatly. 
And  when  the  voice  of  the  trumpet  sounded 
long,  and  waxed  louder  and  louder,  Mosea 
spake,  and  God  answered  him  by  a  voice. 
—Exodus  xix.  17-19. 

31.  And  he  spake  many  things  unto  them  in  par- 
ables, saying.  Behold,  a  sower  went  forth  to 
sow.— Matthew  xiii.  3. 


Near  where  Saul  met 
the  three  men. 

Supposed  site  of  Co-       31. 
pernaum. 


Sent  and  called  Barak  the  son  of  Abinoam  out 
of  Kedesh-naphtali,  and  said  unto  him, 
Hath  not  the  Lord  God  of  Israel  commanded, 
saying.  Go  and  draw  toward  mount  Tabor, 
and  take  with  thee  ten  thousand  men  of  the 
children  of  Naphtali  and  of  the  children  of 
Zebulun  ? 

And  I  will  draw  unto  thee,  to  the  river  Kishon, 
Sisera,  the  captain  of  Jabin's  army,  with  his 
chariots  and  his  multitude ;  and  I  will  de- 
liver him  into  thine  hand. 

And  Barak  said  unto  her.  If  thou  wilt  go  with 
me,  then  I  will  go :  but  if  thou  wilt  not  go 
with  me,  tfien  I  will  not  go.— Judges  iv.  4r-8. 

1095.   1  Samuel  x.  3. 


Jesus  there. 


Visited  by  Jesus. 

The  people  removed 
from  Hazeroth,  and 
pitchedin  the  wilder- 
ness of  Paran. 

lieputed  site  of  Ka- 
desh-Barnea. 


81. 


And  Jesus  went  about  all  the  cities  and  vil- 
lages, teaching  in  their  sjmagognes,  and 
E reaching  the  gospel  of  the  kingdom,  and 
ealing  every  sickness  and  every  disease 
among  the  people. — Matthew  ix.  35. 

Howbeit  there  came  other  boats  from  Tiberias 
nigh  unto  the  place  where  they  did  eat  bread, 
after  that  the  Lo^d  had  given  thanks.— John 
vi.  23. 

82.  Then  Jesus  went  thence,  and  departed  into  the 
coasts  of  Tyre  and  Sidon.— Matthew  xv.  21. 

1490.  Numbers  xli.  16. 


1463.  And  Moses  and  Aaron  gathered  the  ccngrega- 
tlon  together  before  the  rock,  and  he  said 
unto  them,  Hear  now,  ye  rebels ;  must  we 
fetch  you  water  out  of  this  rock  ?— Numbers 
XX.  10. 


CHRONOLOGICAL  LIST  OF  IMPORTANT  EVENTS 


AND    THE 


ILLUSTRATIONS   REFERRING   TO  THEM. 


Feom  Abram's  Entry  into  Canaan  to  the  Crucifixion. 

DATE.                                         EVENT.                                                      BECORD.                                        ILLUSTBATION.  PAGE 
B.C. 

1921.  Abram  entered  Canaan Genesis  xii.  6 Shecliem— Sichim 261 

1918.  Abraham  at  Hebron Genesis  xiii.  18 Hebron 166 

1913.  Abram  rescued  Lot Genesis  xiv.  16 Dan 351 

1872.  Abraham  offered  np  Isaac Genesis  xxii.  13 Mount  Moriah 189 

1860.  The  burial  of  Sarah Genesis  xxiii.  19. . . Hebron— Machpel ah . .  167 

1760.  Jacob's  vision  of  the  ladder.  .Genesis  xxviii.  12.  .Bethel 248 

1739.  Jacob  arrived  at  Shechem Genesis  xxxiii.  18.  .Jacob's  Well— House  .  254 

1729.  Death  and  burial  of  Rachel.  .Genesis  xxxv.  19. .  .Rachel's  Sepulchre. . .  136 
1706.  Jacob  and  his  sons  goeth  in- 
to Egypt Genesis  xlvi.  5 Goshen 2 

1635.  The  death  of  Joseph Genesis  1.  26 The  Tomb  of  Joseph. .  256 

1635.  The  Pharaohs  of  the  Exodus . .  Exodus  i.  1-22 Rameses   II.  and  oth- 
ers    21 

1531.  Moses  in  Midian Exodus  ii.  15 Jethro's  Well. 51 

1491.  The  exodus  from  the  land 

of  Rameses Exodus  xiii.  17 At  the  Wells  of  Moses.  25 

1491.  The  battle  with  Amalek Exodus  xvii.  8-13. .  Wady  Feiran 32 

1491.  Israel   encamped  before 

Mount  Sinai Exodus  xix.  2 The  Plain  of  Er-Raha.  41 

1491.  Descent    of   Jehovah  upon 

Mount  Sinai Exodus  xix.  16 Mount  Sinai    38 


INDEX. 


Aaron  and  Hur,  33. 

Aaron's  Hill,  55 ;  Ras-Sufsafeh  from,  51. 

AbduUah,  superstition  of,  273. 

Abraham,  his  visit  to  Goshen,  1. 

Aboo-Salim,  the  meaning  of,  296. 

Abou-Simbel,  the  great  temple  of,  19 ;  pictures 

on  the  walls  of,  20. 
Abner,  kUled  by  Joab,  157. 
Absalom,  rebellion  of,  160 ;  death  of,  160 ;  tomb 

of,  191. 
Adonijah,  the  "King,"  161. 
Adullam,  at  the  Cave  of,  149. 
Ahmes  Nofretari,  mummy-case  of  Queen,  8,  9. 
'Ain,  Wady-el,  58. 
'Ain  Daluga,  surprised  at,  85. 
'Ain-el-Dalegeh,  the  "holy"  weU,  73. 
'Ain-el-Weibeh,  121. 
'Ain  et  Tin,  the  fountain  of  the  fig,  333. 
'Ain  Qadees,  described,  117. 
Akabah,  the  Gulf  of,  60 ;  night  scenes  on,  64 ; 

village  of,  65  ;  departure  from,  68. 
Aleyat,  Wady,  31. 
Altar  of  Baal  at  Petra,  the,  104. 
Amalek,  battle-field  between  Israel  and,  32. 
Amalekites,  David's  battle  with  the,  154. 
Ananias,  house  of,  363. 
Annunciation,  the  church  of  the,  at  Nazareth, 

308. 
Anti-Lebanon  range,  the,  347. 
Antonia,  the  tower  of,  200. 
Aqueduct  near  Jericho,  179L 
Arab  fight,  an,  71. 
Arab  funeral,  an,  294. 
Arab  salutation,  an,  293. 
Arabah,  Wady,  66,  74. 
Arabic  contract,  an,  68. 
Arabs,  the  Tawara,  67. 
Arch  of  Ecce  Homo,  the,  203. 
Ark,  the,  conveyed  to  Jerusalem,  188. 
Ascension,  church  of  the,  209. 
Augustus,  the  temple  of,  267. 
Azazimeh  Bedouins,  the,  126. 

Baal,  altar  of,  at  Petra,  104. 
Baal,  the  worship  of,  353. 


Banias,  the  modem,  353. 
Bashan,  the  oaks  of,  352. 

Bathing-place  of  the  Pilgrims  on  the  Jordan,  17T. 
Battle-field  of  Palestine,  the,  283. 
Beatitudes,  the  mount  of,  340. 
Bedan  or  ibex,  the,  73. 

Bedouin    attendants,   24 ;  shepherdess    photo- 
graphed, 30  ;    cemetery  on  Mount  Seir,  73 ; 

village,  74 ;   types,   75 ;  surprised  by,  at  the 

Khuzneh,  91 ;  near  Petra,  waylaid  by,  114 ; 

blood  feud  settled,  115  ;  shepherd  boy,  139  ; 

fatalism  of,  159. 
Bedouins,  the  Azazimeh,  126  ;  hospitalityser- 

vice  of  the,  152. 
Beggars  by  the  roadside,  264. 
Belat,  349. 
Bethany,   170;  the  route  from,   to  Jerusalem, 

1&5;  women  of,  172;  the  roads  to,  207. 
Bethel,  the  tower  of,   248 ;  the  route  between,, 

and  Shiloh,  251. 
Bethlehem,  field  of  the  Shepherds  near,  141 ;  the 

viUage  of,  168,  169 ;  the  star  of,  264. 
Bethsaida  of  the  west,  337. 
Bethshean,  286. 
Biban-el-Mulouk,  tombs  at,  3. 
Bible  record,  the,  228. 
Blind  fish  at  Petra,  107. 
Blood-feuds,  115,  265. 
Bondage,  the  days  of  Israel's,  1. 
Bowers  on  the  housetops,  331,  353. 
Brugsch  Bey,   Emil,  his  account  of  the  great 

mummy  find,  9. 
Buka'a.  the  valley  of,  356. 
Burckhardt's  plan  to  see  Petra,  111. 

C^SAREA  Philippi  of  old,  352. 

Caiaphas,  the  house  of,  199. 

Cairo,  23. 

Calvary,  survey  of,  from  the  Mount  of  Olives, 

223. 
Camel  travel,  26. 

Campanile  at  Nazareth,  view  from  the,  309. 
Cana,  the  journey  between  Nain  and,  296 ;  views. 

of,  298;    Dutch  ovens  at,  298;  the  country 

about,  299. 


382 


INDEX. 


Canaan,  the  borders  of,  122. 

Capernaum,   333 ;    Tell   Hum,  333 ;  synagogue 

ruins  near,  334  ;  Jesus  Christ  at,  335. 
Caravan  route  to  Edom,  the,  69. 
Carpenter's  shop,  a,  311. 

Castle  of  Jezreel,  the,  285  ;  of  Banias,  the,  357. 
Cemetery,  a  Bedouin,  73. 
Chapel,  of  the  Virgin,  Mount  Sinai,  46  ;  of  Eli- 

sha  and  Elijah,  do.,  46. 
Cherith,  the  brook,  179. 
Children,  the  Jewish,  176-318. 
Chorazin,  337. 
Christ  at  Capernaum,  335. 
Citadel  of  Jerusalem,  the,  201. 
Coele  Syria,  347. 
Coenaculum,  the,  198. 
Colosseum  of  Galilee,  the,  283. 
Copper  mines  at  Maghara,  30. 
Coral  reefs.  Gulf  of  Akabah,  63. 
Crucifixion  scene  enacted,  the,  206. 
Crusaders  and  Saladin,  the  battles  of,  340. 

Dalageh,  'Ain-el,  the  ''  holy  "  well,  73. 

Damascus,  departure  for,  357;  scene  of  Paul's 
escape  from,  359 ;  the  house  of  Naaman  in, 
359 ;  old  and  new,  360 ;  the  streets  and  the 
people  of,  360  ;  the  rivers  of,  360 ;  the  street 
called  Straight  in,  362 ;  the  bazars  of,  362 ; 
manufactures  of,  363  ;  the  house  of  Ananias  in, 
363  ;  the  grand  mosque  of,  363  ;  the  minaret  of 
Jesus  in,  364 ;  houses  and  homes  of,  365  ;  the 
gates  of,  365  ;  watchman  at  the  gate  of,  366 ; 
departure  from,  367. 

Dan,  the  Fountain  of,  351. 

David,  the  shepherd,  139 ;  the  musician,  147 ; 
at  Ziklag,  154;  fought  the  Amalekites,  154; 
king  at  Hebron,  157 ;  conquers  Jerusalem, 
158  ;  the  tomb  of,  199  ;  retreat  of,  from  Je- 
rusalem, 160. 

Dead  Sea,  the,  173;  highway  to  the,  68;  the 
way  from  Bethany  to  the,  171. 

Death,  of  Pharaoh,  2;  of  Goliath,  146;  of 
Saul  and  Jonathan.  156  ;  of  Absalom,  160. 

Decapolis,  17.5. 

Deir-el-Bahari,  the  temple  of,  15. 

Deir-el-Medineh,  the  temple  of,  15. 

Dervishes,  276. 

Desert,  first  night  in  the,  23 ;  dining  in  the,  24 ; 
travel  in  the,  24 ;  night  in  the,  25 ;  prep- 
aration for  life  in  the,  24 ;  frost  in  the  Petra, 
77;  rainfall  in  the,  126.t 

Dothan,  the  plain  of,  281. 

Druse  farmer  and  team,  357 ;  shepherd  and  lamb, 
359. 

Druses,  the  country  of  the,  357. 

Ebal,  Mount,  2.58. 

Ecce  Homo,  the  arch  of,  203. 


Edom,   the  caravan    route  to,   69 ;    a  view  of 

ancient,  76 ;  the  desolation  of,  77. 
Edomite  village,  ruins  of  an,  76. 
Egypt,  the  land  of,  2 ;  the  dead  king  of,  2 ;  the 

tombs  of  the  kings  of,  3. 
El-Aksa,  the  mosque  of,  196. 
Elath,  65, 130. 

El-Deir,  or  the  convent,  Petra,  107, 108. 
El-Hamam,  Wady,  339. 
Eli  at  Shiloh,  253. 
Elijah,  the  fountain  of,  178. 
Elim,  26 ;  the  wells  of,  28. 
Elisha  and  Elijah,  the  chapels  of,  46. 
Eljy,  the  Bedouin  village  of,  71. 
El-Mediel,  Magdala,  332. 
El-Wafi,  our  envoy,  71. 
Endor,  287. 

En-Gedi,  the  wilderness  of,  151. 
En-Rogel,  191. 

Entry  into  Jerusalem,  the  triumphal,  182. 
Er  Raha,  the  plain  of,  38,  49. 
Esdraelon,  the  plain  of,  155,  280  ;  battles  on  the 

plain  of,  283. 
Esdraelon,  mountains  around  the  plain  of,  282. 
Eshcol,  the  vineyards  of,  129  ;  the  brook  of,  129  ; 

view  from  the  vale  of,  165. 
Essenes,  the,  320. 
Evil  Counsel,  the  Hill  of,  190. 
Ezion-gaber,  64,  130. 

Fanaticism,  Moslem,  203. 

Farmers  of  Mount  Seir,  69. 

Fatalism  of  the  Bedouin,  158. 

Feast-day  at  Nazareth,  a,  319. 

Feiran,  Wady,  31. 

Foliage  on  Mount  Gilboa,  287. 

Ford  of  the  Jordan,  the,  177. 

Fountain,  of  Dan,  351 ;  of  Elisha,  178  ;  of  Jez- 
reel, 288,  289  ;  by  the  wayside,  281 ;  of  the  fig, 
333. 

Funeral,  an  Arab,  294. 

Galilee,  243 ;  Sanaaria  and,  notes  on,  243  ;  de- 
parture from  Jenin  for,  278 ;  the  Colosseum 
of,  283 ;  women  of,  298 ;  night  scenes  in,  300 
synagogue  ruins  in,  312 ;  evening  in,  315 
views  in,  315  ;  home  customs  and  life  in,  317 
the  Sea  of,  324  ;  Roman  government  in,  325 
in  the  time  of  Christ,  325. 

Gate,  the  Shrive,  Mount  Sinai,  45 ;  of  Sinai,  37  ; 
the  Golden,  194  ;  Zion's,  198  ;  St.  Stephen's, 
207 ;  the  Damascus,  Jerusalem,  240. 

Gates  of  Damascus,  the,  305. 

Gehenna,  99. 

Gerasa,  175. 

Gerizim,  Mount,  257. 

Gethseraane,  198  ;  the  Garden  of,  208,  210. 


INDEX, 


383 


Gharandel,  Wady,  27. 

Gihon.  the  Pool  of,  161. 

Gilboa,  Mount,  views  from,  286 ;  the  foliage  on, 

287. 
Golden  Calf,  the  Hill  of  the,  52,  55. 
Golden  Gate,  the,  194  ;  prospect  from  the,  195. 
"  Golgotha,"  233. 
Goliath,  the  death  of,  146. 
Crorge,  of  '  Ain  Hudhera,  55 ;  of  Petra,  74  ;  of  the 

Sik,85. 
Goshen,  the  land  of,  1 ;  Abraham's  visit  to,  1. 
Gospels,  book  of  the,  convent  of  St.  Catharine, 

44. 
Grave  of  Miriam,  the,  120. 
Graves  in  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  192. 
Grotto  of  Jeremiah,  the,  232. 
Guerrah,  El,  the  Rock  of,  70. 
Gulf  of  Akabah,  the,  60. 

Harodn,  Jebel,  72. 

Hasbany,  the  bridge  over  the,  350. 

Hatasou,  Queen,  15. 

Hattin,  the  Horns  of,  340. 

Hauran,  the  mountains  of  the,  342. 

Hawa,  Nagb,  37. 

Hazeroth,  54,  56  ;  Miriam's  Well  at,  57. 

Hebron,  129, 165  ;  David,  king  at,  157 ;  the  Pool 

of,  166 ;  life  at,  166. 
Hedaiyah,  Mohammed  Achmed  Effendi,  83. 
Hermon,  Little,  280,  290. 
Hermon,  Mount,  355. 
Herod  Antipas  in  Galilee,  325. 
Herod  the  Great  at  Samaria,  267. 
Hezekiah,  the  Pool  of,  215. 
Hippicus,  the  Tower  of,  219. 
Holy  Sepulchre,  Church  of  the,  204. 
Hor,  Mount,  72,  75. 
Hospital,  the  lepers',  212. 
Houses,  at  Shechem,  261  ;  of  the  ancient  Jews, 

176;   of  Jerusalem,   the,   214;    roofs  of  the 

Palestine,  310. 
House-tops,  bowers  on  the,  331,  353. 
Howe,  Dr.  Fisher,  226. 
Hudhera,  the  Gorge  of  'Ain,  55. 
Humeiyumeh,  the  well  at,  69. 

Ibn-Jad,  or  Benjad,  sheikh,  66. 
Idumaea,  the  ruins  of,  101. 
Ish-bosheth,  king,  157. 
Ishmaelites,  the  land  of  the,  101. 
Island  of  Kureiyeh,  the,  63. 
Ithim,  Wady-el,  68. 

Jabbok,  the  brook,  177. 

Jacob's  "Tower"  at  Shechem,  259. 

Jacob's  Well,  254. 

Jebel,  el-Meharret,  33  ;  Mousa,  39 ;  Mousa  the 

summit  of,  46 ;  Katherina,  46 ;  Suf safeh,  the 

summit  of,  49 ;  Haroun,  72. 


Jebel  Taiyibeh,  29. 

Jehoshaphat,  graves  in  the  valley  of,  191. 

Jenin,  the  journey  to,  211 ;  the  view  from,  273  ; 
experience  at,  274  ;  departure  from,  for  Gal- 
ilee, 278. 

Jeremiah,  grotto  of,  232. 

Jericho,  ancient,  178;  aqueduct  near,  179;  mod- 
ern, 180;  the  journey  from,  to  Jerusalem, 
180. 

Jerusalem,  conquered  by  David,  158;  the  journey 
to,  from  Jericho,  180 ;  the  triumphal  entry 
into,  182 ;  the  route  from  Bethany  to,  185 ; 
khan  at  the  Joppa  gate  of,  183, 184  ;  topography 
of,  187 ;  walls  of ,  188 ;  from  the  Bethany  road, 
southeast,  189 ;  to  Gethsemane,  199  ;  houses 
of,  214  ;  *'  stones  "  of,  215  ;  Jews'  quarter  of, 
213 ;  Christian  quarter  of,  215  ;  Tombs  of  the 
Kings  at,  220  ;  view  of,  from  Mount  Calvary, 
239. 

Jesus  and  David,  towers  of,  219. 

Jethro's  Well,  46,  51. 

Jewish  children,  education  of  the  ancient,  318. 

Jews'  Wailing-place,  the,  216,  217. 

Jezreel,  the  plain  of,  280  ;  the  castle  of,  285  f  the 
fountain  of,  288,  289 ;  the  source  of  the  Jordan 
at  the  fountain  of,  289. 

John,  the  coming  of,  326. 

Jonathan,  the  death  of,  156. 

Jordan,  headwaters  of  the,  353. 

Jordan,  the,  toward  Moab,  174 ;  the  Pilgrims' 
Bathing-place  on  the,  177 ;  the  ford  of  the, 
177 ;  source  of  the,  fountain  of  Jezreel,  289. 

Joseph,  Sepulchre  of,  256. 

Josephus  at  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  338. 

Joshua  and  Moses  on  Mount  Sinai,  51. 

Joshua,  at  Shechem,  258  ;  the  tribes  mustered 
by,  at  Shechem,  262. 

Kadesh,  the  author's  search  for,  119. 

Kadesh-Barnea,  117,  123. 

Kasr  Pharoun,  the,  101. 

Katherina  Jebel,  47. 

Kef'r  Bir'im,  the  synagogue  at,  314. 

Keneh,  Wady,  30. 

Khan  Minyeh,  333. 

Khuzneh,  the,  89. 

Kidron,  the  vale  of  the,  199. 

"King's  Dale,"  the,  191. 

Kings,  of  Egypt,  the  tombs  of  the,   3 ;  three 

Jewish,  133  ;  tombs  of  the,  Jerusalem,  220. 
Kishon,  the  valley  of  the,  283. 
Kureiyeh,  the  Island  of,  63. 
Kurun  Hattin,  the  Homa  of  Hattin,  340. 

Lazarus,  the  tomb  of,  170. 
Lebanon,  acfross  to  Damascus,  344  ;    to   Anti- 
Lebanon,  347. 


384 


INDEX. 


Leontes,  the  river,  347 ;  natural  bridge  over  the, 

349. 
Lepers  at  Shechem,  259. 
Lepers'  hospital,  the,  Jerusalem,  212. 
Little  Hermon,  280,  290. 
Luxor,  from  the  plain  of  Thebes,  18. 

Mach^elau,  the  cave  of,  167. 

Magdala,  331. 

Maghara,  copper  mines,  30. 

Mamre,  in  the  plain  of,  129  ;  return  to  the  plain 

of,  132. 
Mandeville,  Sir  John,  at  Samaria,  269. 
Marah,  26. 

Marsaba,  the  convent  of,  171. 
Martha  and  Mary,  the  house  of,  171. 
Massah  and  Meribah,  the  waters  of,  31. 
Medinet  Abou,  the  temple  of,  15. 
Medjel,  el,  Magdala,  331. 
Meharret,  Jebel-el,  33. 
Menephtah,  4. 

Miriam,  23,  25  ;  the  grave  of,  120. 
Miriam's  Well,  Hazeroth,  57. 
Mizpeh,  Scopus,  246. 
Moab,  the  Wilderness  of,  130. 
Mohammed  Achmed  Effendi  Hedaiyah,  83. 
Moors,  of  Morocco,  293. 
Moreh,  the  Hill  of,  286. 
Moriah,  Mount,  188. 
Moses,  the  wells  of,  23,  25  ;  the  rock  of,  30  ;  the 

mountain    of,  33  ;    the  well   of,  at   'Ain-el- 

Dalageh,  73. 
Mosque,  of  El- Aksa,  the,  196 ;  of  Omar,  the,  197. 
Mousa,  Jebel,  39. 
Mousa,  Sheikh,  26,  114  ;  mapping  of  the  route 

by,  27. 
Mousa,  Wady,  77,  78. 
Mummies,  the  tombs  of  the  royal,  5. 

Nagb  Haw^a,  37. 

Nain,  the  ride  from  Shunem  to,  291 ;  Mount 
Tabor  from,  292 ;  at  the  convent  of,  292 ;  the 
journey  from,  to  Cana,  296. 

Nawami,  or  rock  house,  a,  70. 

Nazareth,  old  and  new,  303 ;  a  climb  up  the  hillo 
of,  303 ;  early  morning  at,  304 ;  the  wood- 
market  at,  306  ;  beginning  of  the  day  at,  306 ; 
street  scenes  in,  307 ;  market-day  at,  307,  320 ; 
the  Church  of  the  Annunciation  at,  308  ;  a 
view  of,  from  the  campanile,  309 ;  view  from 
the  Hill  of  Precipitation  at,  311 ;  a  feast-day 
at,  319  ;  in  the  time  of  Christ,  320. 

Nebo,  the  moimtain  of,  131  ;  view  from,  131. 

Necropolis  of  Petra,  the,  86. 

Negeb,  views  in  the,  125. 

Oasis  of  Pharan,  31. 

Olive  groves  in  the  vale  of  Shechem,  262. 


Olives,  the  Mount  of,  207. 
Omar,  the  Mosque  of,  197. 
Ophthalmia,  307. 
Oriental  and  sacred  scenes,  224. 
Ouida,  Sheikh,  119. 

Paine,  Professor  John  A.,  131. 

Palestine,  choice  of  route  in,  274  ;  the  battle- 
field of,  283  ;  the  Jews  of,  311 ;  the  ''  holy  " 
cities  of,  330. 

Pan,  the  worship  of,  263  ;  the  cave  and  shrine 
of,  at  Caesarea  Philippi,  354. 

Parable  of  the  sower,  272. 

Pentateuch,  the  Samaritan,  259. 

Petra,  the  gorge  of,  74 ;  the  cleft  of,  75  ;  at  the 
gate  of,  78  ;  history  of,  80 ;  difficulty  of  reach- 
ing, 82  ;  entrance  gate  to,  86  ;  Necropolis  of, 
86 ;  unfinished  temple  at,  86 ;  Egyptian 
structure  at,  86 ;  construction  of  the  rock 
structures  at,  87 ;  front  door  of,  87  ;  inside 
the  gorge  of,  87  ;  the  Khuzneh  at,  89  ;  theatre 
at,  95  ;  Temple  of  the  Urn  and  arched  terrace 
at,  95 ;  Corinthian  structure  at,  98  ;  temple 
with  three  tiers  of  columns  at,  98  ;  the  Kasr 
Pharoun  at,  101  ;  methods  of  the  architects 
of,  102  ;  discovery  of  new  treasures  at,  102  ; 
canopied  pulpit  at,  103  ;  rock  stairway  at  104  '■> 
pyramids  at,  100, 103 ;  the  altar  of  Baal  at,  104, 
105  ;  blind  fish  at,107  ;  water-works  at,  107  ;  el- 
Deir,or  the  convent  at,  107,108 ;  Burckhardt's 
plan  to  see,  111 ;  a  street  view  in,  109, 110 ;  de- 
parture from,  112;  blackmailed  in,  112;  as- 
saulted on  the  way  out  of,  112 ;  waylaid  by 
Bedouins  near,  114;  perilous  taking  of,  116. 

Perea,  the  scenery  of,  175. 

Pharan,  oasis  of,  31  ;  ruined  houses  of,  31. 

Pharaohs,  a  visit  to  the  hiding-place  of  the,  8. 

Philadelphia,  176. 

Philistines,  Saul's  battle  with  the,  156. 

Phoenicia,  when  Herod  ruled  in,  345. 

Phoenicians  at  Caesarea  Philippi,  the,  353. 

Pinotem  IL,  mummy  head  of,  10. 

Pisgah,  the  top  of,  131. 

Pool,  the,  of  Solomon,  167,  169 ;  of  Gihon,  161 ; 
of  Hebron,  166 ;  of  Hezekiah,  215. 

Promised  Land,  where  the  spies  entered  the,  129. 

Purgatory,  99. 

Qadees,  'Ain,  described,  117. 

Rabbis,  social  position  of  the  ancient,  818. 

Rachel's  Sepulchre,  136. 

Rainfall  in  the  desert,  126. 

Rameses  II.,  burial  of,  2 ;  profile  of,  from  Abou- 

Simbel,  19;  unwinding  the  mimimy  of,  20; 

photographing  the  mummy  of,  21. 
Rameses  III.,  temple  of,  15. 


INDEX. 


385 


Ras-Sufsaf eh,  view  of,  38 ;  from  Aaron's  Hill,  51. 
Red  Sea,  across  the,  2;5  ;  encamped  by  the,  29. 

Safed,  a  view  from,  341. 

Saint  Catharine,  the  convent  of,  39 ;  ascending 
the  wall  of,  40  ;  view  inside  the  wall  of,  41 ; 
the  elevator  of,  42 ;  plain  of  Er  Raha  from, 
41 ;  interior  of  the  chapel  of,  43 ;  book  of  the 
gospels  of,  44. 

Saint  James,  the  Church  of,   199. 

Saint  John,  Church  of,  at  Samaria,  266,  268 ; 
traditions  as  to  the  head  of,  270. 

Saint  Stephen's  gate,  207. 

Salim,  sheikh  of  Petra,  94 ;  his  staflF,  100. 

Samaria,  from  Judea  to,  243 ;  and  Galilee, 
notes  on,  243  ;  and  Shechem,  between,  263 ;  in 
sight,  264,  265  ;  hills  encircling,  266  ;  Church 
of  St.  John  at,  266,  268  ;  tragic  story  of,  267  ; 
Herod  the  Great  at,  267  ;  ruins  of  the  temple 
of  Augustus  at,  267  ;  Mandeville's  description 
of,  267. 

Samaritan,  the  Good,  265 ;  interview  with  a 
"good,"  270. 

Samaritans,  the,  258. 

Samuel,  the  judge,  133. 

Saul,  the  son  of  Kish,  134;  anointed,  135; 
death  of,  137  ;  at  battle  with  the  Philistines, 
156;  king,  156. 

Scopus,  the  hill  of,  Mizpeh,  247. 

Sea  of  Galilee,  the,  323  ;  view  of,  from  Safed, 
324  ;  natural  beauty  of  the,  325 ;  life  on  the, 
325 ;  Mandeville's  description  of,  327 ;  the,  a 
focus  of  life  and  activity,  327;  the  towns 
of,  329;  ride  along  the  shore  of  the,  332; 
'Ain-et-TIn  on  the,  333  ;  at  Capernaum,  the, 
336 ;  Bethsaida  of  the  west,  337  ;  Chorazin, 
339 ;  Wady  Kerazeh  at,  337 ;  home  of  a  Be- 
douin farmer  on  the,  339  ;  the  Horns  of  Hat- 
tin  from  the,  341 ;  the  plain  of  Genessaret 
from  the,  338. 

Sea,  the  Red,  29  ;  the  Dead,  173. 

SefFurieh,  297. 

Seir,  Mount,  view  from,  75 ;  the  farmers  of, 
69. 

Sepphoris,  297. 

Sepulchre,  Joseph's,  256  ;  Rachel's,  136. 

Serbal,  Mount,  30 ;  ascent  of,  33 ;  views  from, 
34. 

Sethi  I.,  2. 

Shechem,  the  vale  of,  254 ;  best  view  of,  257 ; 
Joseph  at,  258  ;  Jacob's  Tower  at,  259  ;  lepers 
at,  259;  "religion"  at,  260;  houses  at,  261; 
the  tribes  mustered  at,  by  Joshua,  262 ;  the 
water-shed  at,  263. 

Shechemites,  the,  260. 

Sheikh,  Ibn-Jad,  or  Benjad,  66. 

Sheikh  Mousa,  26, 114. 

Sheikh  Ouida,  119. 


Sheikh  Salim,  94 ;  his  staff,  100. 

Sheikh,  Wady-es,  53, 

ShUoh,   250;  route    from    Bethel  to,   251;    to 

Shechem  from,  253. 
Shunem,  286  ;  the  garden  of  "  spices  "  at,  290. 
i  Sidon,  the  coasts  of  Tyre  and,  344 ;    the  start 
I       from,  345. 
Sik,  gorge  of  the,  85 ;  the  river,  85 ;  following 

the  river,  87. 
Siloam,  191 ;  the  gardens  of,  191. 
Sinai  and  the  wilderness,  23 ;  the  gate  of,  37. 
Sinai,  Mount,  from,  to  Mount  Seir,  53. 
Society,  ancient,  177. 

Solomon  anointed  king,  162 ;  the  reign  of,  162. 
Solomon's  pools,  163,  167. 
Sower,  parable  of  the,  272. 
Star  of  Bethlehem,  the,  264. 
Suez,  23. 

Sufsafeh,  Jebel,  the  summit  of,  49. 
Synagogue,  ruiiis  in  Galilee,  312 ;  at  Kef 'r  Bir- 

im,  the,  314 ;  view  from  the  ruins  of  a,  Galilee, 

314 ;  service  at  Tiberias,  330 ;  ruins  at  Tell 

Hum,  334. 
Syria,  Coele,  347. 

Tabor,  Mount,  from  Nain,  292 ;  description  of, 
297,300;  views  from,  301. 

Taiyibeh,  Jebel,  29. 

Tell  Hum,  333  ;  synagogue  ruins  at,  334. 

Temple,  of  Deir-el-Bahari,  the,  15  ;  Deir-el-Me- 
dineh,  15 ;  of  Thothmes  III., 15 ;  of  Abou-Sim- 
bel,the  Great,  19 ;  an  unfinished,  at  Petra,  86 ; 
of  the  Urn,  eastern  colonnade,  97 ;  with  the 
three  tiers  of  columns,  Petra,  98 ;  with  fluted 
columns,  at  Petra,  103  ;  the  area  of,  at  Jeru- 
salem, 196. 

Thebes,  across  the  plain  of,  from  the  tombs  of 
the  Pharaohs,  13  ;  the  Colossi  of,  17. 

Thothmes,  III.,  the  temple  of,  15. 

Tiberias,  palmy  days  of,  326 ;  warm  baths  of, 
328;  north  and  south  views  of,  330;  syna- 
gogue of,  330  ;  street  scenes  in,  332. 

Tombs  at  Biban-el-Mulouk,  3, 

Towara  Arabs,  the,  67. 
I  Tower  of  Antonia,  the,  200. 
I  Tower  of  Hippicus,  the,  219. 
I  Towers  of  David  and  of  Jesus,  the,  219. 

Transfiguration,  the,  355. 

Via  Dolorosa,  the,  203. 
Vineyards  of  Eshcol,  the,  129. 
Virgin,  Chapel  of  the,  Mount  Sinai,  4fi. 
Vultures,  54. 

I  Wady,  Gharandel,  27 ;  Keneh,  30 ;  Feiran,  31 ; 
I  Feiran,  breaking  camp  at,  37 ;  Aleyat,  31 ;  es 
i       Sheikh,   53;  'el-Hudhera,    56;    el-'Ain,   58; 


386 


INDEX. 


el-'Ain,  entrance  gate  to,  59  ;  Wetir,  60  ;  Ara- 
bah,  66,  74;  el-Hainam,  339;  el-Ithim,  68; 
Mousa,  77;  sunrise  view  from,  78 ;  turned  into 
a  river,  126 ;  Kerazeh,  Chorazin,  337. 

Warrior,  the  Jewish,  143. 

Water-works  at  Petra,  107. 

Wedding  journey,  a  Samaritan,  278. 

Weibeh,  'Ain-el,  121. 

Wetir,  Wady,  60. 

Wilderness  of  Zin,  the,  120;  wandering  in  the. 


130;    of  Moab,   the,   130;    of  En-gedi    the, 
151. 
Women  of  Bethany,  172 ;  of  Galilee,  298. 

Zaccheus,  the  house  of,  179. 
Zerka,  the,  177. 
Ziklag,  David  at,  154. 
Zin,  the  wilderness  of,  120. 
Zion,  Mount,  158,  198. 
Zion's  Gate,  198. 


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